Cleaning and Lubricating a Knitting Machine and Carriage

[@bonniekonjevich7574]

Your videos have been a go to for me for years. I learned how to use a knitting machine 45 years ago but still review your site. :-) I absolutely love your gorgeous dog!!!

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Wonderful! That seems to be it with many out there. Even I had to review a few of my videos a couple years ago. Ex had me removed from our house (not in a legal way either) so his jezebel could move in with him.

[@evelynedeen]

I mentioned in a reply yesterday that I had not used my machine for so many years and was getting back into knitting again. Luckily, I found my can of Lori-Lin in the cupboard, so I'm off to do some machine maintenance. Thanks, Roberta, for another informative video.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Hello again Evelyn Most of us will be like that. I used to put my machine away for the summer months and then when I got it out again, couldn't remember much of anything but pushing the carriage back and forth. But in time, I do remember most things now but I do not put away my machine at all. I will have one out and if I can clean some of the clutter on the dining table, I can get a 2nd machine out also. I love the Lori Lyn, when I found out it was being discontinued, I bought a couple cans of that, wish they kept making it as that is some good stuff. Sure you will be machine knitting up a storm again soon. Later Berda

[@afair937]

Thank you for this! I have a “brand new” brother kx350 that I just found at thrift store. It’s been in the box for several decades but never used and I haven’t been able to knit at all because my carriage gets frozen on my second pass after I’ve hung my cast on comb, so I’m hoping this will help. I’ve never used a knitting machine before and am very excited to have this machine and try to learn! Thanks so much again.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Even though it may be brand new, most times when they sit for awhile, the sponge strip in this case or sponge bar on the metal bed machines do need replacing. If you cannot get a new sponge strip from online or ebay, you may try using some sort of weather stripping to make your own. but still it needs a fabric on one of even both sides to get it in the channel better. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYvVqZ-AlpqCpsU kzbin.info/www/bejne/enKyhX-kf8x8ntE Hope you get to use it more and more as time goes on. That was the first machine I had, used it for 15 years before I got my first metal bed machine.

[@rajkavozarevic5393]

Thank you so much , Roberta. I pick up Machine Knitting after many yrs and needed some updates > your videos are amazing and so helpful Thank you so much for sharing with us your waste knowledge. Thank you:)Rajka xx

[@claudiacarvalho2773]

Hello , Roberta, Thanks for your videos!

[@TosaNewsense]

Oh geez, I'm sorry for the long post. It's so long, I'm going to title it- "The Question That Became a Blog Post" Right now, I'm working on getting a mod 150, srp150 ribber, and a ps150, purchased at an estate sale about a month ago, up and running. This is to be my first foray into the wonderful world of machine knitting. When I was a kid, I had first seen a Brother knitting machine in my mom's AAFES catalog and it was such a marvel to me, that bright blue metal case! all those needles! What a wonder. Aside from that department store catalog listing, describing it in 2 or 3 sentences, if even that, detailing the make and model, number of needles, and country of manufacture, I knew nothing about knitting machines. I don't know much more about them nowadays. I'm sure the catalog also provided dimensions, but I didn't have time to care about dimensions. There was a picture next to the description! The photo couldn't have been larger than 2x3 inches, displaying little more than half the needlebed, and within that main picture, there was an inset photo, a smaller square with a photograph of the entire machine, lid closed and latched. I ran my fingers over that picture so often, the ink quickly smeared across the thin magazine paper stock, the picture becoming a blur of black and blue and grey. Not long after that, I rubbed a hole right through the page. Lost the picture, but that image was saved in my mind. Anyway, that catalog pic showed nothing else along with the knitting machine to give an idea as to how much space a knitting machine occupies. So with zero contextual clues, my 10 year old mind related to the only other box I knew of, having roughly the same ratio and latches- a knitting machine inside its box is the same size as a flute! And the needles are like sewing machine needles, yeah? I remember being really perplexed, sitting around wondering how on earth that thing could knit. And how would the thread come out as fabric if it goes through an eye of a needle first. Finally, after a lifetime of wanting to learn machine knitting, I got a machine belonging to a lady wbo seems to have spent a lifetime as a machine knitter. Feels right to me, like an equation that's balanced on both sides. Although my mom taught me how to knit with 2 needles when I was young, I don't have the patience for them and I'm eager to begin learning how to knit on a machine. I guess, part of the practice of machine knitting includes the maintenance of these vintage units, with cleaning being a major component, so I guess, I am learning machine knitting already? despite having yet to knit my first stitch. As it is an old machine, and as it is not in terrible condition at alI, I wanted to start gently, seeing how much progress could be had before having to call in reinforcements. Using your videos as my guide, combined with information gleaned from other videos and blogs, I'm cleaning the carriages using a folded rag, a cut up old t-shirt actually, dampened on one edge with only water. The rest of the rag I've left dry so I can immediately wipe away any traces of water once a section has been deemed cleaned. Hoping the beds are as nice as the carriages as to not need an entire teardown, like in your 4 part video, Miss Berda. I did pull off the sinker plate though, and spotted about 3-5 tiny, but stubborn, rust spots, each about < ½ mm across. Should I start with 0000 steel wool on the rust? Or would spot applying a chemical rust remover using a Q-tip be the better way to go? Also, what do you think would leave a filmy coating on the top of sinker plates? It reminds me of the coating on a wall behind the stove, created by vaporized grease accumulating over time. But it's not anywhere as thick nor is it near as sticky. It is, however, sticky enough to require a lot of persistence and elbow grease to remove. Upon closer inspection, the coating actually seems to cover the entire topside of the carriage, but is most noticeable on the sinker plate. It also has a stronger bond to the (galvanized?) metal surface of the sinker plate than the plastic carriage cover. I find it much easier to remove the film from the plastic cover than from the sinker plate. The levers and cams protruding out from the sides didn't seem to have any residue, negligible at best. Perhaps that's due to the manufacturer's coating on those pieces? The original owner kept the machines in her beautifully finished basement studio, with an entire wall of open shelving replete with coned yarn sitting in different sized cubbies, accommodating different sizes of cones. Across the room there is a little sewing nook, complete with a false wall/hidden door panel that when pushed, a magnetic latch would spring into action, opening the hidden door to magically reveal a built-in, fold out ironing board! I wish I could have seen the studio when it was actively being used, before our prolific knitter passed away, but I am grateful to have been allowed entry into the space in which my machines resided prior to their coming home with me. That studio, which may have doubled as her storefront, was immaculate. I don't think the coating on the carriage is kitchen grease, wafting in from the kitchen upstairs, through 2 doors no less. The only thing I can think it might be is that it's wax from the yarn? Or could it be knitting machine oil? I dread thinking it's machine oil. But you know I don't know anything about this stuff so 🤷 Luckily, my machines came with a nearly full can of Lori-Lin and nearly full bottles of the machine oil, likely packed as original accessories from the factory. Do these oils go bad? The bottles are translucent so I can see that the oils look great -very thin oil, much less viscous than i had imagined, and a light color, with no weird separations, no weird smells or discoloration. I had read or heard somewhere that the author does not trust oils that came with a used knitting machine because of how old they must be. But I remember my dad using sewing machine oil that looked like it came from the same assembly line as the very first sewing machine; the bottle was dented and rusty. And judging from the illustrations and fonts printed on the steel bottle, that sewing machine oil definitely predated my birth by easily 20 years. It could have even predated my dad's birth in 1945. He used that bottle on our machine practically my entire life. And it's worked fine my entire life. But we've already established that i know nothing, so 🤷 Since you said they don't make Lori-Lin anymore, I'm going to use it sparingly. I did buy some WD40 to loosen up a transfer carriage that came with my purchase, in case following your tip with the hair dryer doesnt work. The crank won't budge so hopefully I'll get it going with a bit of a heated blast. If not, surely, WD40 will work a charm on that hardened grease. But after the cleaning of machines is done, and after cleaning the cleaners off the machines is done, for actual lubricating, especially electronic components, I picked up a can I've never tried before- Dupont Non-Stick Dry Film Lubricant in a black and white spray can with a red cap, includes a skinny red straw shrink wrapped against the can, an attachment for spraying the dry lube into tiny spots with precision. This seems to be designed for machine parts that move repeatedly, listing chains, gears, locks, light bulb threads, and sliding surfaces as some of its designated applications. Sliding surfaces? Naturally, i thought,"knitting machines!" Says on the can: Professional Grade Dry, clean & oil-free Repels grit & grime Reduces sliding friction Bonds to all surfaces Insulates electrical conductors Protects metals, plastic, and rubber I hope I've found my holy grail km lubricant 😁 Also, your dog is a sweetheart! You guys look so adorable

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I do have your Blog Post in a document to answer you, cut can you email me at hobbyknitter at gmail dot com?

[@melanieheap4914]

Thanks for a great video on how to clean, I have just bought a knitmaster 321 second hand as its my first time trying a punchcard machine. It arrived really dirty and needs a really good cleaning! So thank you for giving me the knowledge to so. X

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Melanie Heap so many get a machine that is not working out of the box, but we can overcome that and clean up most of it. Now if you have to do a very deep clean, I do have a 4 part video of taking apart the sk326 and putting it back togetherkzbin.info/www/bejne/n6LPaqmorL2fntU is part 1 and I believe I have links at the end of each video to go to the next part. Glad I could help you in this way but thanks goes back to you for viewing my videos.

[@1949chefjojo]

I appreciate your knowledge and sharing the abundance of information as enjoy my Toyota 901 Knitting Machine. I purchased it barely used and a Brother Knitting machine in virgin condition from the 1960's.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I did have a Toyota machine at one time but I couldn't get it to work but maybe in time I will get me another one. But I do love my bulky Elna machine, (before was the sk155). The older machines are better in other ways that the newer ones are not. Berda

[@1949chefjojo]

Thanks for responding. I also learn from The Answer Lady.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

It is good to watch more than one person on any subject, one may do something a little differently that you would prefer to do or the other person shows something that has not been seen before. Berda

[@victoriabell4436]

Thank you so much for giving of your time and knowledge.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I am very happy to share what I know or learned over my years with machine knitting, just warms my heart knowing that many learn from mine as well as others and they can carry on the craft of machine knitting. Berda

[@judith98630]

Labs think they’re lap dogs!? Thanks for all your instructions!

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I have always had a lab or lab mixes, will probably until my last breath. This one here was such a dufess

[@debbiebray5366]

I have learned alot from your videos and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I fixed my LK100 just by replacing the sponge bar with 3/8" weather stripping. I don't think it has ever worked as well as it does now!! Now to work on my other two machines...

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

+Debbie Bray Your very welcome. I have had machines come to me with very poor sponge strips or bars and they were a horror. Then as I found the Knitting Closet troubleshooting guide (not there anymore as someone just copied her page and put it on their site as if it were her thoughts) most of the problems stemmed from a bad sponge bar or strip. Good going for making your own sponge strips and bars. Berda

[@debbiebray5366]

I've been telling any one who will listen how excited I am about your site. So thought I better tell YOU too! It's a shame some people can't give credit to the original owners of an idea - even if they don't know who it is. At least say it wasn't your original idea. I respect that person more.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

+Debbie Bray Thank you. I know some of my video links are in Facebook as well as some forums and groups, which when I hear of that, I blush so much that I bet some think I am a delicious apple. I am just so happy that I can help those around the globe with how I do things and if I get permission from someone else ideas, they are mentioned either by name or just a quick thank you to them. Again, thank you for coming to my youtube channel. Berda

[@AmoPerrosMás]

Love your videos Roberta! Oh my gosh I have to say that I read the above comment so quickly that I completely skimmed over the part about how you blush so much. All I read was that since your video links are on Facebook and forums that some must think you are a delicious apple! Love it!

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Thank you Susan, I do not think of myself as any special person or that I know more than anyone else, I do fool around allot on my different machines and when I find a new way to do something or that someone asks me to show them a certain technique, I do my best. But when I see the comments like that, I do blush. I do not get to go to FB or even play games on my computer as I used to but I do love sharing my talents with others that need to see or make something, I am able to record them up and get them online. I have been told about the links to my videos on FB but I can only get there maybe a few times a year, maybe when I am not so busy, I can get there more often. Again, thanks for your support and please leave this delicious apple alone so that it can do more on her different machines. hehehe Later Berda

[@tenjou0]

Have you ever had a machine that was almost beyond repair? I have a little Necchi-Elna Miracle Knitter Jr. and I bought it secondhand. The needles were corroded and pitted, and the plastic bed had lots of cracks in it that made the "cam box" or carriage jam. I was lucky enough to find another bed on ebay with some needles on it that were in decent shape, and I ended up sanding down the corroded needles a bit to even them up and then I gave them a good soak in CPC for a few days before cleaning them all a second time and smoothing out any burrs. The machine operates, but having some sort of weight on the knitting is a must where the manual for the machine does specify that weights were not needed when the machine was new. I'm happy the machine works, but having to gut another bed and changing the conditions of proper operation makes me kind of sad. I have found that the more I use it the less weight I need on it, but I wish I could have gotten the little knitter back to original manufacturing condition. On the plus side, I found an old studio SK303 machine on ebay that was so new in box it still had the factory plastic on everything and the box was still stapled shut from the factory. The white plastic wasn't yellowed at all, but the oil that came with it had basically evaporated somehow, but it did come with 3 extra needles and the spongebar is still in really good condition by the grace of god. I want to get a metal bed mid-gauge machine too, but I also want to get a ribber for the SK303 and I know which one to get because the manual lists the one that would be compatible. I'm really torn on what to get, because, let's face it, I'm not rich and it will still take me a few months to save up for it. The way a lot of machines are going I feel an urgency in buying them that I have to resist because if feels like if I wait to get one it won't be there for me to get when I finally get the money.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I sure did, it was a toyota machine but now I wish that I tried harder to fix it, but oh well. I know that machine, I did have one but it was still good, just didn't use it much and did find a new home for her. Glad you did find another one. One thing i found out is on eBay you need to watch out for those that do not know anything about the machine, it could be very bad or missing parts. The singer type machines only need the claw weights on the ends but I still like to put a comb on those machines. It is a shame when one gets a machine only to find out that it needs a good cleaning or to get a 2nd machine to make at least 1 whole bed, but this does happen. Nice find, those are hard to come by but they do come along and most times I find the new owner is the lucky one. I did get a few good deals on a few of my machines. According to www.lacecarriage.com/studioribbers.htm it looks like the srp20, srp50 and srp60 will fit that machine but I cannot guarantee that. I would think the 20 would but those are hard to come by, the 50 and 60 are more available but do not get the 60N. I did get the srp20 on the sk840 when I did have those 2 machines, the ribbers just hook up a little different is all, but i would only try for the 20 or 50 myself if I had the 303. Now there is the SK160 and SK860 are both 6.5mm machines but the 160 doesn't have the ribber and the 860 is electronic, so that would be a hard to find machine but also very high priced. I see many greedy people out there with selling their machines and put the price up very high. Maybe they do get it but I hope to help those understand that some of the used machines out there for sale may or may not be a good price. Now another mid-gauge machine is the Artisan 70D but they stopped producing them as well and if you find one used, they may be a bit pricey also. Now that is one machine I wish I had got but then again, it is more like the manual non punch card machines, I do like the punch cards, they can do so much more and easier also. Save up and sure you will get the machines you want. Berda

[@tenjou0]

I've found that on the LK150 I can get away with not having the claw weights on the ends somehow. I know the ribber that originally came with the 303 was the sr303, but you'd be able to find a unicorn before you find that, so I was going to get the srp60 and try that. I've heard some stuff about the 60n, so I was a little wary of that. I've seen a few ads on etsy where they have the knitter and the ribber together but I've yet to talk any of them into just selling me the ribber... I've seen a few on allbrands.com that are mid gauge with a ribber. I also have a brother profile 550 that was in really nice condition, though it was missing a few things (the top cover and a latch hook), but I got extra stuff with that, including a handmade wood cabinet so that's ok. It's hard to give 2 standard gauge machines equal attention though, so I've been thinking about selling it and using that money to put toward a new machine. I don't know why but I love the brother cast on combs, so I've been using that on the 303 because that only came with a wire and the manual didn't have any pictures and didn't explain it very well. I usually like a closed cast on though so the wire isn't a big deal. I do wish brother would make machines again, but if any manufacturer could jump into the market I would beg Husquvarna to do it because their stuff is like the nokia of sewing machines it seems. I remember seeing a new artisan mid gauge machine somewhere that was barely used and well kept but it was only listed for about 10 minutes before people descended on it like sharks to chum. EDIT: Completely odd, but was at Joanns and met a lady who has a singer sk328 she barely used and offered to trade for my brother machine. The compatibily chart you showed says the srp60N is for the 328 and newer, but is it possible to use the srp60 for both machines? What's the difference between the two? EDIT AGAIN: I found the manuals for the srp60, srp50 and the srp60N. The 303 doesn't have the dip in the bed to fit the srp60 mounting brackets and neither does the 328. Both of them seem to have the same setup on the bed for a ribber and the setup matches the srp60N manual and the srp50. The srp 50 and 60N seem to have the same setup you showed in your video where you installed that studio ribber. From what I can see the 60 has a built in bracket on the ribber and then a another bracket where it sits just behind that dip in the metal and the ribber bracket sits in the dip. I think I just answered my own question.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I know that list may not have been complete but thanks for that info. Most the times whatever the knitter is, the ribber has the same number. I had both 60 and 60N, the 60N hooks up very differently but it did work. I kept the srp60 for my sk700 but even the srp50 and srp20 are nice ribbers.There is the new brother double bed that is a mid-gauge and a dear friend has that and she loves it. I forgot about that one. I have seen some put it down as it has the plastic rivets but so doesn’t most of the studio type machines, they still hold up but screws are in place where those are needed.For the 550, do you mean the hand tool latch hook? As any standard hand tools should work. Just some things are special to certain machines. Like that handle on the back to select the needles, one lady I talked with was missing it. I told her that if she can get a locking needle nose pliers, that should work until she can find that part. We do need to find ways to get some of the older vintage machines back to original equipment but sometimes we use something different.I also use my brother cast on combs on the Studio/Elna/singer machines I have but I also have the lk100 cast on comb I will use on my Elna 2300.I think I know what you mean with that wire, I did a video on using ravel cord to cast on, that wire would take the place of the ravel cord minus the part of hanging down between the gate pegs (so you just lay it behind the gate pegs instead), let me find that video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/apCqdqOugtR8a9U I am pretty sure the srp60 would fit most machines but cannot guarantee that, it was the 60N that was a bit different. Then the other side is the fine gauge ribbers will only fit the fine gauge machines. There are people out there that love only the brother machines, same for the singer type machines but then you get some that will use both types. I do as when I get someone that wants to know how to do something on the brother machine, I have a couple that I need to figure out which one to keep and which one to find a new home for but will hold onto the knit king kh710 as to get a ribber for those push button machines are like that unicorn. Oh to have a unicorn in my yard but we do get big moose and also deer as well as some of the smaller yard animals. Glad you found the manual and from what I remember, I did hook the srp20 to the sk840 I had for a time and it worked. So the difference in the 3 are how they hook to the knitter but some knitters need a certain way for that. Well I wish you all the best with your machines and that lady you met in JoAnn’s, really hard to find another machine knitter that lives close to one but it is possible. Berda

[@tenjou0]

Yeah, just the little latch tool. I don't mind that it's missing as you can buy a latch tool at most craft stores these days, and they're easy enough to buy online. I think Needle-Tek makes them as well. I'm still figuring out how to use the little push buttons on the 550, but I'll probably stop being stubborn and go download the manual. The 303 patterning system was pretty easy for me to catch on to. Thanks for all the help! I'll still keep a look out for the older machines and such, but I think at some point I want to buy a machine still produced by the 3 manufacturers that still make them. I'd like to support the manufacturers, it'd be so nice if they keep making them.

[@patrickdumas5396]

Thank you so much! One question: If I want to see under the needle bed, do I just need to unscrew the metal and remove it? Is the needles are just going to fall off? Thank you

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I have removed the metal bed off a machine and the needles stayed in place, the sponge bar holds the front and I sort of forget how the back is but there must be something holding them in place. Hope this helps.

[@bellaadoraa]

Great video!

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Thanks!

[@SuzieBender]

thank you!! great video! I just got a vintage knitting machine.. it works but its extremely hard to move across

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Suzie Bender Thank you for viewing them. I also have a 2 part video on taking apart the sk326, deep cleaning it and then putting it all back together. Sometimes those old machines that were not used in years will need a deep clean where others only need a little cleaning and lubricating to get them back working again.

[@SuzieBender]

i just watched them yesterday and have been cleaning it and i also learned about the sponge bar... its really bad! i ordered a new one and i ordered some singer machine oil. i cant wait to get it all cleaned up and back together! :) i have watched several of your videos now there awesome! thank you!! until i got my knitting machine a couple of weeks ago I had never used or seen one before. i am learning as i go! :)

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Suzie Bender Sometimes cleaning up a new to you machine can be more work than one wants but sometimes we have to do it, but then again, you accomplish something new or get another older machine back up and working again, which in my book is a very good thing.Thanks again for viewing my videos, just knowing that one person has benefitted from it, I am a very happy person and can look to get up more.

[@MaryVivit]

Thank you for sharing this! I'm getting ready to move in the next couple of months. This is a cross-state move, so I'm doing a good job of packing up. Should I clean/lube my machine before I move or after the move when I set the machine back up?

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Depending on how long your machine may not be used, I myself would lubricate it just so that first it will be hard for moisture to get to it, but also so that just in case moisture were to get into your machine(s), lubricating it before will surely help. Just remember to wipe off any excess that may be on the carriage and/or bed. Moving can be an experience, being a military family, we did move about every 3 or 4 years, glad I am settled down now but one just never knows what the future hold for that person.

[@MaryVivit]

Roberta Rose Kelley Thank you, Roberta. I think I'm going to do a deep clean, too. I'm going from dry central Utah back to near-the-rainforest northwestern Washington state. The moisture protection is going to be important. Thanks, again, for your reply and all you share with us!

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Mary Vivit Doing a Deep Clean is sometimes a very good thing, then you can check out the underside of the bed. When I opened up my 326 and found the lint along with other dirt that was stuck to the inside of the case from a previous owner spraying the bed, it did hold stuff that caused some rust to start. I do tend to do that when it is nice and warm out, not much in precipitation around to stop any other moisture from getting inside there. Going to a wet area, you may want to have more plants around that will catch the moisture in the air but also leave enough so that it won't build up static electricity. I am happy to share what I have learned over the years, some of it is from others and their experience where most is just how I had learned how to do whatever on my different machines.

[@phoozchic]

Clean Machine! Thanks, but that is one pretty pup!

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I do try to keep my machines clean, sometimes I may get them to where I need to do a deep clean, where others I can just do little cleaning. Thanks on the pup, she is a keepah (as we say in Maine) and turning into a very good watch dog also.

[@skateness]

Thanks so much for your videos! I have a Brother KH260 with ribber and I have the chance to purchase a Studio SK 155. I'd like keep only one Chunky machine. Do you recommend getting the SK 155 and selling the Brother? Or, keep the Brother and not purchase the SK 155? Honestly, I fell in love with your SK 155 and I've wanted one since 1st seeing your videos.

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Hello Vanessa, Well both have their good points as well as bad. The brother machine does show you the selected needles but also uses the 24 stitch punch cards, where the Singer doesn't show the selected needles and only has the 12 stitch punch cards. I didn't like it when the Fair Isle took up the whole 24 stitches on the brother machine and why I went to the Singer machines. I also like the fact that the Singer machines uses drums to select the needles and not the timing belt. The choice is really yours, where you have a bulky already and do not want to have 2 bulky machines, I myself would stay with what I have unless that love for the SK machine was more than the love of the Brother machine. Unfortunately I get many people asking me of the different machines and why I have had or still have the different types. Now I do have the Knit King KH700 and KH830 standard machines, and with 2 different ribbers so that I can show how to do things on the bulky with either of those but not completely. I as well as many others find the SK carriages move a bit smoother but then again, some find it the opposite. It all depends on how the previous own took care of that machine. Wish I could choose for you but as mentioned, that is really up to you. If funds allow you to get the SK155 so that you can try it out, then you can decide if you want to sell the brother or singer bulky machine as in reality, we only need 1 of each gauge machine, not me though. Berda

[@skateness]

Roberta Rose Kelley makes perfect sense! I like the way the studio carriages move and "pop up " so I guess I may try out the 155. I already have a Studio 360 standard gauge so I'm a Studio fan. Thanks! And your little buddy is beautiful 😍

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I do miss how the Brother Bulky works but I have not seen any machine that combines the best of both worlds but we just make the best of it. With the Brother machines, you would push in the Part buttons to do as I lift the carriage covers to move it freely across. I did have the 360 at one point but then got the 700 that has the built in intarsia but that machine is sort of buried and why I have got out my brother standard instead but soon enough I will get out my 700 again and work up stuff on that one. Here is hoping you do get that but not sure which one to keep, it is a matter of seeing or using them both for a while to then pick the one you like best. I find not much problems with the 12 st patterns, if there isn't a card punched already, we can for the most parts punch it but also we can hand select the needles when putting the Cam to Tuck or Knit In (Fair Isle) to do the same that the card would do but we can work up more stitches than the card would do. Now I wouldn't do that for an afghan but for a hat or maybe even a scarf, hand selecting the needles is the next best thing to using the punch cards. Berda

[@australia17032010]

i have ben given a knitmaster 323 , the carriage wont slide , its because the wheels are stuck solid , how can i get at these and clean please ,its the wheels at the back of the carriage thankyou xx

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Try taking a hair dryer to the drums to see if it is congealed grease. The other thing you may try is to soak the drums with WD40. I would take the cover off for that, let it soak and drip onto paper towel, then before using it, if you have access to an air compressor, blow out the drums but also the rest of the carriage. If not, you may need to replace the drums. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWq5g3WulN6dhMU kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5mVkHuio8dleac Or send to a repair person.

[@lesliemiller8881]

I have brushed off and cleaned my machine but when I get to the center of the machine when trying to knit it gets really difficult to slide across - nearly gets stuck. Any suggestions?

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

I am thinking that maybe the bed is not level? Can you check that and if it isn't, you may have to lay it flat somehow and put some weight on it to try and get it back. Berda

[@lesliemiller8881]

Roberta Rose Kelley I will check, thank you.

[@joannebutler5759]

Hi, have a jone simplity it's so hard to use... Any help please.. the needles seem to drop backwards on movement so are out of line when the carriage goes over them so it jams.. how can I stop the needles from moving on their own, it seem they are to loose.. thank you for any help

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

So the Jones are similar to the Brother machines, when the needles are loose like that, it is the sponge bar. But not sure if that machine has the sponge bar or just a metal bar as some of the older machines only had that metal bar or rod to hold the needles in place. But if it has a sponge bar, then you either need to get a new one or refurbish that one. Watch this video to see what I mean, some of the plastic machines only has a sponge strip. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHqTgaqNn5ynbtE Berda

[@joannebutler5759]

Yes I got really annoyed with it, and could only see a metal bar, so I took it apart completely in order to clean it, and found a sponge bar at the back of the machine, yay, so I now have a old machine that works... Thank you..

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Most of us get that way with one thing or another, so your not alone. But we do find out what the problem is one way or another and get to our crafting. When I get mad at my machine, and I always tend to blame that instead of the operator, I will walk away, talking beneath my breath but go do something else that has nothing to do with knitting, even hand knitting I leave alone. That is the good thing with most of the machines, old as well as the newer ones, we can get them working again and I can hear mine singing a nice song as they are at work. I still hear my other machines cry to be used and in time I will get them out and use them even if for 1 item. Berda

[@joannebutler5759]

Yay, I found some spray that acted like oil but dried with out oil finish, car maintenance spray not wd40. I cleaned all the carriage and little flippers. It's now effortless to move even using all needles it's not hard. I am really impressed. But when I had it apart I noticed the bottom of the needles have little pits and divits in them. So wondering if I should replace them. Then I need to learn how to read a pattern.

[@trinaportner4125]

I have the home knitter machine kx350 and The carriage get stuck halfway through the bed of the machine and I just can't figure out why it does that can you please help me and tell me is my carriage dirty I replaced a sponge bar but I'm not for sure why it gets dark about halfway through my work and then I have to take the carriage off of the bed and then I'll try it again and it still gets stuck halfway through can you tell me what I'm doing wrong or do you have a video that will explain it to me

[@trinaportner4125]

It gets stuck so then I get mad at it and put it away

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

My first KX350 had burrs on the underside of the carriage and that made it get caught or hard pushing. If that is the case in your machine, if you have a file or dremel tool, you can remove those burrs. I hope that is all that it is. If there are no burrs, then the carriage may be defective. Hard to say how old some of these machines can be. Berda

[@RobertaRoseMeads]

Been there, done that. Most times when the machine is not cooperating (most times it is just the operator, me), I will leave that and go do something else as when we get mad, things will keep goign wrong. But I hope it is as simple as my first KX350 was. If not, maybe seeing about getting another carriage but that is hard to do, most times you get the whole machine. And they stopped production of this model many years ago. Now the Silver Reed is still producing the LK150, so that may be your next machine even if it is a used one. Berda

[@trinaportner4125]

Roberta Rose Kelley so I can probably tear the machine apart and maybe clean it because I do have the bond machines and I don't have any trouble with that one and it never gets stuck on me

[@trinaportner4125]

Roberta Rose Kelley I was kind a like one he wanted had to steal bad but I could not find one when you got there is really neat but I just couldn't find one so I get the plastic dead but hopefully you can help me think you