Hole Drilled in Intercooler Fixes EcoBoost Misfire

UPDATE: A year and a half and 45k miles later, this truck has 227k miles and hasn’t had a single problem since.
This is definitely one of the most interesting fixes I've done. The owner of this 2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost truck with 182,000 miles had a very intermittent misfire problem that only occurred when accelerating onto a highway. The problem ended up being water collecting in the intercooler (charge air cooler) as was being pushed into the intake when under high boost conditions.
After extensive research on the Ford forums, I finally decided to bite the bullet and drill a 3/32" hole in the driver side of the intercooler directly underneath the post intercooler pipe connection, which is the lowest point on the intercooler. A ton of water and oil came out when the hole was first drilled. A year and a half and 45,000 miles later, he hasn't had a single misfire since.
Really cool fix. If you drive your EcoBoost easy for the fuel milage, but experience a misfire when you step on it to accelerate onto an interstate, try drilling on hole in the side of your intercooler. The only side effect is oil residue underneath the intercooler. But if you can live with that, go for it.

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

UPDATE: A year and a half and 45k miles later, this truck has 227k miles and hasn’t had a single problem since. I absolutely love some of these comments here saying the problem is with the turbos leaking oil, dirt will get sucked in the hole, should have installed a catch can, OMG BOOST LEAK 😱 etc etc etc. 😂 Please, educate yourself on turbocharged engines before commenting and making a fool of yourself. This fix has worked, the time and miles have proven it. Hope this video has been helpful to others out there with the same issue.

[@slowfudgeballs9517]

That hole is too small for any kind of significant boost leak, the hesitation is way worse anyhow. It can be as small as 1/16th or probably even 1/32nd. You just need to blow out the small amount of pooled liquid blocking airflow there.

[@itskarl79]

I been adding an oil catch can on the PCV would reduce the amount of oil coming out.

[@shuckydern1]

I have a 2012 F150 Eco B, same issue, I drilled a small hole through the plastic portion of the intercooler in almost the exact same place as shown, however nothing came out, no water, oil etc. Assuming I was supposed to stop once making it through the plastic portion? I was very careful to do so. If I run my bit through the hole about a half inch I can feel it hit metal. (not drilling). Any help would be appreciated.

[@SexyTexas]

@@shuckydern1comes out while you drive

[@aol11]

A big helper to your video would be to show what was happening before you started to work on it, it helps us relate much easier and if making a noise or a symptom it would be much easier to diagnose.

[@TommyZTrains]

Wonder if it was "our" Video you saw Daniel ? *AFTER our failure: you wouldn't have believed the amount of water that was "spewing" outa the exhaust*. End-game: we did this same thing ... "no-fuss - no-muss". That SOLVED the problem !. GREAT CLIP !!

[@chadchristensen1114]

Drilled mine with an 1/8" bit. Nothing came out right off the start but once I got it out on the highway it spat and sputtered for a couple of K and the sputter was gone. Looked underneath and the signs of water/oil.... Thanks for the fix, glad it's an easy one

[@911mporsche]

182k that did hold up really well. good job Ford

[@warbed1]

Good fix, too bad nobody actually watches and pays attention to your video before commenting and criticizing. It's a tiny whole people it wont effect boost. boosted systems leak just about everywhere. A catch can would not solve this issue since it is mostly condensation, 35 years with Ford and we know this concern. All turbod intercooled car have this concern except for Subaru, (there cooler is vertical/pancake mounted) Great fix and more power to you.

[@jeremygaillard5924]

BarberChop It definitely works. I did it and there is no loss of boost or power

[@mudriderfx4]

I did it as well and it fix it the same day after letting drain

[@Buzzfink]

Drilled the hole and replaced 6 plugs. Runs like a new truck. Got about a pint glass full of sludge. Still running great 👍

[@cessealbeach]

My dad has a 2014 with 168K miles, synthetic oil change every 5K miles, he just changed plugs and coil packs..running like a champ

[@iisreset]

Great video! It nice to see another Ecoboost kicking butt. Have 140k on mine and still pulls like a mule on steroids.

[@brockclement6461]

Thank you very much for sharing the video. My truck has been in the shop 5 times for the issue and had coil wires and plugs replaced... Of course, all unsuccessful.

[@brockclement6461]

2012 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost - stock, no tune. I drilled a 1/16 hole in the corner of mine earlier today and then went for a long hard drive. Initially when opening it wide open, it hesitated and did its thing. After that I opened it wide a few more times and couldn't get it to shutter and enter limp mode... just got home and checked out how much sludge came out... wow. So far, so good. I'll continue to do this for the next few weeks and see how it goes.

[@takeactionmedia873]

Very Interesting. Makes sense, but i think the boost/vacuum leak might present future problems. I was thinking and came up with the idea of maybe installing some sort of petcock at the bottom to occasionally drain the intercooler, but also preventing a boost leak. A hole that size probably wouldn't be noticed by the engine's computer, so either way would probably work. Nice cheap remedy!!

[@Chuckers84]

Interesting fix. I now have 344,000 km on my 2011 eco and to solve my condensation issue I went with a full race all aluminum front mount intercooler and piping it cured the problem as well and lowering the boost pressure air temp

[@slowfudgeballs9517]

This is something I believe my used truck has installed.

[@upsidedowndog1256]

Unless turbo rpm is sensed, no ill effects should occur. Boost is regulated by wastegate, so the turbos will turn at a slightly higher rpm for a given boost pressure. Fun!

[@jplee123]

Doesn't the MAF before the turbo read a higher volume of air than that which makes it to the engine? i.e. Even though boost is compensated by the wastegate, air volume may not be.

[@upsidedowndog1256]

@@jplee123 The speed of the turbo should compensate for volume if there is a leakage.

[@jplee123]

​@@upsidedowndog1256 Thanks. But after poking around the internets a bit, it looks like EB's have MAP (pressure) sensors aft of the intercooler which makes this mod acceptable, rather than MAF (volume) sensors. If we had MAF sensors this would have likely been a problem as MAFs sense volume, not pressure. And the volume would read higher under boost @ the air filter (typically where MAFs are configured) than what actually made it to the engine, causing a rich air-fuel mixture, and lower under vacuum causing a lean mixture. Again, this is not apparently a problem with EBs since we use MAP (pressure) sensors as opposed to MAF (volume) sensors.

[@Syxtus_outdoors]

I have 2014 f150 3.5l ecoboost that was bought with 130k km and it had really bad misfire on cold start up, everything changed when i installed mishimoto catch cans(driver and passenger side) i changed spark plugs and cleaned all 3 sensors on throttle body etc, it took about 5-7k km to.clean up and engine starts up as smooth as new, as far as drilling a hole in the intercooler its a big mistake and will definitely void warranty on new vehicles. Get a quality catch can and you will never have misfire or shaking on start up! The amount of crap these cans catch between oil changes is mind blowing, really suprising that Ford hasn't addressed that issue as standard recal.

[@akbychoice]

Affenberg I recognized that deal immediately. Nice easy fix. Ford needs to remedy that.

[@mickeybitsko8333]

A sound idea. The turbos will maintain full boost as long as the hole isn't too big. The just delay opening the wastegates as needed. You'd only lose a very small amount of boost at maximum boost and at high altitude. Any gunk simply gets forced out.

[@Powerstroke98]

Like you, I found doing this well over a year ago on my 2016 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. When I initially did it, there was lots of crud that came out after the first start of the engine, but it's barely anything now, and I've not had an issue since. I did change out the throttle body recently, and I was surprised at how dirty it was, so quite possibly that crud worked it's way to the throttle body, and over the years has allowed it to get quite dirty! I also have a catch-can (passenger side only) and empty it once a month or so, and it's amazing all the crud that would be pushed into the intake! It's basically oil, moisture and acids, and often looks like baby poo! I dump it in my garbage can, and then wipe out the catch-can super clean, and re-install. I also do 5K oil changes, and the trucks running great at 133K, and I hope for many more years!

[@phammond68]

would yours ever give you misfire codes? mine did that before as well as the tach getting jumpy and after new coils and plugs was all good. problem is back now about a year later but im getting no misfire codes and a nice steady tach, so im thinking of going with this fix. ive got a 2015 167k, also passenger catch can looks like milkshake about every month, definitly makes me wanna clean the throttle body after seeing what came out of that

[@chrisprytko2640]

Just an FYI, I had the same problem. I almost drilled it, but my friend suggested Sea Foam. I did 2oz per gallon in the tank. After it ran through, I didn’t have the issue anymore!!! I also ran another 2oz per gallon in the next fill up. That was around 3OOO miles ago! I have my power back and it seems to have fixed the problem!!

[@americanrambler4972]

Joe R - yes I know this is a positive pressure system. I was referring to contamination possibly entering that hole while system is under vacuum such as coasting down a hill with throttle closed. Under some conditions intake manifold can still go negative pressure. I just do not know how often that condition would happen with this motor. There is a video on KZbin showing just how much air is lost in a charge cooler with a 1/16 hole. He did the test with and without oil in the area. He tested up to 30 lbs in a closed circuit and the air loss was a nit. The pressure loss would easily be overcome by the wimpiest of turbos. At the end of the day a catch can or water/oil separator would be ideal, this fixes the problem too. It's just a bit messy. The little bit of reasearch I just finished on this seems too indicate this is a proven technique used by people who have worked on these systems for a living. Apparently, this intake charge contamination is a common problem on boosted engines in general and measures have to be taken to address it. That was a bit of a surprise to me. I am not a trained professional mechanic. My knowledge comes from fixing my broke vehicles and what had to be done to the the big trucks I drove for years. And there are a lot of gaps in that knowledge. But I do know what polished chrome muffler bearings and blinker fluids are and what Functions they perform.

[@danonly55]

Don't forget the can of "beep" for the horn.

[@Badgertronix]

EXOVCDS has been doing this for years on VW turbos with no issues over on his channel. Great fix, thanks!

[@electropentatonic]

nice try

[@LMSILVIA]

Not condensate, not oil seals in turbo, that is just oil build up from engine blow by. EVERY turbo or boosted engine has it and the only way to REDUCE it is with a catch can on the pcv system but you will never get it 100 percent. This is just a band aid fix because you are still getting the intercooler internally coated with oil greatly reducing its efficiency.

[@rymat1427]

I drilled two 1/16 holes. Oil came out close to a tar consistency. Fixed the engine stumble. Acts like a new car

[@DoyleHargraves]

It's hard top argue with that. Do you have a oil spot where you park?

[@sfllife03]

I have own 10 fords and 1 dodge this 2013 is one of the best trucks I have ever own like I said 238,000 miles and only a sputter out of the truck I hope this fixes my truck it’s just hard to drill a hole in to my inter cooler I pray this works thanks for video

[@Robon2ndShift]

the idea for this came from back in the day Volvos. They had 3/32 holes from the factory for this very reason. As a guy that bought his first new truck and has had to deal with this shit, and no help from Ford, I can tell you this is beyond frustrating. Still love my EB. I have had the condensation issue within an hour of driving in the right/wrong conditions. I had the 1st Gen deflector plates. The 2nd gen deflector plates. The redesigned intercooler. It finally comes down to I need to be able to drive this damn thing and I am not rich enough to just simply swap out vehicles. This solves it. BTW, after the turbos but before the throttle body is almost always under boost. It's always been 1psi or more. And if you think a small hole like that is going to cause a problem you're wrong. I've seen 18 lbs of boost going thru that 3 inch pipe. That's after the hole was drilled.

[@stayingupforachange104]

Just experienced this for the first time at 101,000 miles. Decided to take to Ford (still under warranty). They replaced the plugs, with the #4 cylinder plug being cracked. They covered a new coil for that cylinder, and labor. I paid for the plugs and diagnostic fee. Back to normal for now, we’ll see what happens moving forward.

[@williswatrous4820]

Ford warranty ends at 60,000 miles for ecoboost f150 so yeah please stop telling lies

[@FIP776]

Just drill 3/32 hole in my 2011 Eco and everything go back to normal, even my check engine light goes off

[@drewthompson7457]

I put a catch can on the "normal" PCV line, with works when there is vacuum in the intake manifold. Under boost, this doesn't work, as they don't want to pressurize the crankcase. The catch can does collect a few drops of oil, but collects quite a bit of dirty water. When the engine is under boost, there is a different PCV system, which I forgot about as there wasn't much I could do about it. This spring I'll see what is in the bottom of the intercooler, and worry about it then. A hole, with a self tapping screw might be something I"ll do.

[@marioendrinal2345]

I have that underboost problem too. Intermittent check engine light with P0299>Turbocharger/Supercharger Underboost. I just clear the codes coz i dont know how to fix it. Please post if you ever solved the issue. Thanks

[@davey3765]

I used a small self-tapper so when its done draining it can screw it back in.

[@Watchout1010]

With a rubber gasket

[@anomamos9095]

This is not usually an issue with stock intercoolers, but I believe Ford actually reduced the size of the cooler on the Focus hot hatch due to the risk of hydrolocking the engine. Anyone who street drives a modded boosted vehicle and lives in areas with similar climate should do this mod as a matter of insurance.

[@BrandonTejadaSkates]

While I worked at a Ford shop I noticed these 3.5L ecoboost engines really never had any issues

[@davey3765]

A lot of pelple were nervous about these engines but Ford said they were the 'upgrade' from the naturally aspirated V8 (Coyote?)

[@bennywurz2995]

This is a fucking piece of shit

[@bigf1502]

Benny wurz is mad he got a 5.0 instead of 3.5

[@bennywurz2995]

@@bigf1502 I have several Ford trucks, both the 5.0 and 3.5 EcoBoost. The EcoBoost is major pain in the Ass!

[@cowlumbus]

Well other then the timing chain and phaser issue not unlike the 5.4L did...so 10+ years latter...same issue different flavor. Oh yeah and exhaust manifolds...been through several and several turbos too!

[@daveerrington5166]

This is the first thing every eco-boost owner should do when they purchase their vehicle new or used

[@stevew6910]

2nd gen 3.5 in 2017s have a different inner cooler. Will never have to drain one. Turbos will draw it out when it reaches about 1/4 on the bottom. if your gassing it both will draw any condensation out . You might want to put a screw in that hole so some oil gets to the turbos. It appears ford found a fix or decided to do something since they was getting a bad rap on the echos

[@willpugh8865]

im going to add a catch can see if that helps, i don't want oil leaking on my drive way

[@2Quietus]

I wonder--could you drill a hole to fit a small permanent drain fixture with extended tube to allow the excess to go to ground instead of on the truck?

[@michaelcrusco4558]

why don't you use a drain petcock and panelbond to seal it.....drain it once in a while and put a catch can system on and eliminate the problem permanently

[@thegreenthing7603]

youve just created a boost leak in your intake system. its also gonna suck dirt, unmetered air and even water. what you need is a good quality oil catch can to prevent oil build up in the intercooler

[@calebvasquez1]

With a little screw on the tiny hole it should do the trick and you won't feel an anxiety attack so you could read more comments

[@tony37068]

Do you even understand how turbo 3.5L works? IT never Sucks, it push air into engine. you can drive through water with the hole open. (theatrically).

[@takayama1638]

One old logger boy has way over 300,000 miles on his '11 Ecoboost. I don't think he even drilled that hole. I'm putting a catch can on my '15. All direct injection engines need one. It's direct injection that causes issues, not turbos.

[@Atrophes]

@Jerrammie Villanueva suggested a catch can and I'd agree with him. A catch can would probably work. Or at least with the current solution you could tap the hole, throw a fitting in there, then use some flexible tubing to make a cheap catch bottle out of a small mayo bottle or something. Then put another hole in the lid and put a one way check valve in it to prevent a vaccum from pulling things in to the hole on vaccum. Or hell, if you don't care whats coming out and want to avoid blowing crud all over your truck, you could just tap the hole and screw a little check valve in to it, then run a tiny length of tube below where the oil would blow from the hole Although where is this oil coming from? An EGR or PCV Valve? I guess I can sort of see the logic of putting the EGR or PCV before the turbos, due to the fact that you're going to have more vacuum before them but wouldn't that mean that you're cooking oil on to the compressor wheels which could cause them to fail early due to to bearing wear from having weird unbalanced loads on the compressor fins? I mean, living in the motor city I have friends who are engineers at Ford and GM and they're not dumb people, but you'd think that they would think of this failure mode. There has to be some logical trade off.

[@janicepoore1488]

Drilling a hole in the intercooler will allow debris to enter the intercooler, yes it will push out condensation but the trade off don’t make since. Maybe you should block off some of the intercooler so the air temp will not drop to a level such to create condensation. This is called reaching a dew point via delta temps across the intercooler coil. Blocking off part of the intercooler will produce the same effect, and will prevent from damaging the engine over a long period of time by introducing debris into the turbos and engine components.

[@scotty2325]

There is air being forced into the intercooler, therfore making positive pressure. Nothing will be pulled into the 1/16th hole.

[@davey3765]

I drilled a weep hole and used a self tapper screw as a plug. Not too many issues here in Northern California

[@americanrambler4972]

Had to think about this one a bit. The Boost leakage is a very small amount of air vs amount being supplied. It's a non issue. There is probably a bit of goo on the inside where the hole is, so I would bet the air being sucked in would capture most of if not all the contaminates that got in. That area is in an area where you would not see much dust anyway due to the way the air moves around that region. That is a pretty protected area. And being a boosted engine in a heavy truck, I would bet the times a vacuum large enough to pull any contamination through that tiny hole would be minimal at best. You would get more dirt from other sources already in the system.

[@joer5057]

American Rambler you realize that this is a positive pressure system, right? There will be air forced OUT the hole, which not only will make the truck run worse, or at the very least weak. Air intake on fuel injected vehicles is a very delicate and intricate system, especially ones using forced induction. Putting any holes in the system will throw it out of balance and cause a boost leak.

[@vincentbrugetti7254]

The air leakage from a 1/16 hole looks like a leaky nail in a tire, after thumbing some spit on it. So compared to the volume of air that runs through system, it’s not noticed in the slightest and the system is still pressurized…

[@buzza2077]

I recommend getting the oil separator with catch can instead. This does work however oil/moisture will still make it to the cylinders. Reason I say catch can is these are direct injection so any oil that makes it back will carbonize on the valves which is already an issue with these Ecoboost engines

[@ryanford7836]

But if it already has the build up in the inter cooler the hole will take care of that and you can run a screw or something back in it if you want

[@buzza2077]

@@ryanford7836 true. However the separator catches it closer to the intake opposed to the bottom also just drilling the intercooler leaves oil spots and drips on your skirt. I have it drilled myself cause I don't care about stains myself

[@uptownsamcv]

usually oil in the charge pipes means your turbo needs to be rebuilt soon

[@uptownsamcv]

I never looked at the PCV systems of cars that came turbocharged from the factory. Normally when i turbo a car i delete the stock PCV system. I prefer to use a catch can with a breather .....

[@king0684]

The Tool Guy usually it has the pcv on the intake manifold or right before the throttle body. Oil in the intercooler or charge pipe means bad turbo.

[@king0684]

The Tool Guy after the turbo? Or before?

[@king0684]

The Tool Guy for the sake of having a laugh I'm going to respond after being called a dumb ass for no reason lol. All pcv systems I've seen are all after the turbo and before the throttle or on the intake manifold itself. I don't see why a manufacturer would want oil to be fed to the inlet of the turbo. What ever oil is at the piping or intercooler is coming from the turbo, I guarantee it. Also, why would a hole in the intercooler fix the problem? Your letting out air that the maf sensor already accounted for. There is obviously more problems than meets the eye. My guess its a bad turbo, and the excess oil is messing with the maf and or fouling the plugs and causing the miss fire. How old are you tool guy?

[@king0684]

The Tool Guy where did I say the "turbo magically makes the oil go away"? Arm chair warrior? You're the one calling names. Lol. Tough guy. There's a breather and there's a pcv. Pre turbo is a breather after that is a pcv. By the way, a pcv is a one way check valve, no boost in the crank case no matter where you put it.

[@davidjohnson8474]

That's a pretty cool little fix! I have a dodge magnum with a 5.7 hemi and we were having issues with misfires and hesitation too but what we found was oil in the intake and we put a oil separater on it and zero problems afterwards. We found oil coming from the PCV. Maybe you could look into that too

[@slowfudgeballs9517]

Yeah that is another thing you can do on this engine. People often install catch cans in this hole shown in the vid. But, since the engine gets a lot of blow by from the turbo charged nature, a lot of oil, water, and gas gets circulated past the piston rings, and back into the air intake to be burned again. This increases engine life but decreases the amount of air and gas you can fit into a cylinder. Installing a catch can between that line that filters the air from the oil in a bronze filter or gravity catch will significantly reduce the oil content in the air intake. This is a common problem in forced induction engines but also occurs in naturally asperated engines.

[@NormSauceman]

I wonder if there is a item we can install through that hole to put a drain tube so you could run the oil out another place so it does not muck up the underbody...

[@fraxonthefurry21]

hopefully ford could create a factory bleed valve of some sort to fix the problem on newer models. Also could a catch can eliminate most of the oil building up in it?

[@driveability]

SO YOUR SAYING A MIXTURE OF OIL AND WATER GETS PUSHED INTO THE INTAKE AIR STREAM, SO IT DOESN'T SUPPORT COMBUSTION.. SO IT DRAINS OUT WHEN THE ENGINE IS OFF AND PUSHED OUT BY BOOST WHEN ITS RUNNING. NICE JOB !!!!!

[@catfish500mark9]

Catch cans solve the intake valve coking.It does nothing for the CAC condensation.I drilled mine at it solved the issue.If the engine sucks up too much condensation all at once it can permanently ruin the engine.Just drill the CAC (1/16" drill bit) run a high quality catch can and enjoy a brute of a six banger!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@1050drillbit]

I done this on my 2014 F-150 Ecoboost and solved the misfire out on the highway with high humidity.

[@boostercontrol100]

Did you try step colder plugs? If your making to much power for the spark it will miss fire under full throttle you need go step colder plugs. Maybe what happen was the hole in the inter cooler looses boost thus he loses power and it stops the misfire lol. If yall already did that then idk what is just asking.

[@d-arts7139]

might want to check resetting that oil change in the system panel. i have a 2015 eco and i believe it know if ive been towing or off-roading a lot, and may decrease my intervals, but 7500-10000 miles is too long for me. you can decrease the settings, but still one of the best ways is to write it down. like we have done since the beginning of time lol

[@markbulva4188]

Have 208000kms on my 14 ecoboost and have never had the misfire except when plugs get worn

[@BookerTJohnson]

Mark Bulva How often do you replace your plugs? My dads truck only has 60k miles and is misfiring hard would you think it this or the plugs?

[@markbulva4188]

@@BookerTJohnson I’ve done my plugs twice. First time was about 70-80k kms which is 45-50k miles but when my truck is at work it sees tons of hrs of idling so the way I see it plugs are cheap so I’ll do them every 60k kms. and they don’t like big gap w stock coils so keep it .028-.030 when new

[@isacchris1]

I'm sure you could have done it without leaving an exposed hole in the intercooler line.

[@civicsr2cool]

Christopher Isac my though exactly, a petcock would do much better of a job

[@bryanmartinez6600]

Christopher Isac some aftermarket intercoolers have a drain plug I may buy a Ecoboost eventually for work I plan on Cold Air Intake Catch Can and Performance intercooler

[@seinfeld11123]

turbo seals, piston ring blow by. which is why it hesitates. that intercooler will be full of oil

[@KCWhoa]

jack black or it could just be blow back that's getting past the PCV. turbo motors draw pretty hard on the intake. that's why they suggest you get a catch can.

[@seinfeld11123]

Casey Rodriguez yep also if you run it hard in 4th gear at highway speeds for 20-30 mins you can prevent it or clear it up MAYBEE

[@sacheus]

Same for TDI if you have oil in your intake, a self tap screw in intercooler and drain every oil change.

[@itskarl79]

best answer yet

[@compmanio36]

Haven't had an issue on my 12 3.5 but I might do this anyways just to avoid a future problem. Live in a pretty dry climate out here in the high desert so maybe that's why you don't see this crop up in this area as much.

[@Slowlanegarage]

I really hope you drained it and then tap and plugged it… thats a boost leak

[@UOYtaLOL]

so oil in intercooler actually means you either have worn out turbos or your pcv system is junk. drilling a hole just creates a boost leak and is a temporary shade tree fix.

[@THETOPGLOCK]

182k is impressive. It seems the first year or two of the 3.5 EB were problematic. Same goes for the 3v 5.4. It amazes me one engine can't make it 100k and another will see 300k trouble free miles. 🤔

[@slowfudgeballs9517]

Yeah the fucking 5.4 tritons suck. Engine is faulty design.

[@bostonseifrit3684]

​@@slowfudgeballs9517I had an 08 lariat

[@robertwood3970]

All you did by putting a hole in the intercooler was lower the boost. Did you try new plugs gapped at .030"? If lowering the boost stopped the mlsfire the problem was the plugs gapped too wide.

[@Cooperdaleit]

This will make the turbo work harder and potentially reduce life but interesting thanks for sharing.

[@brandenkelp]

😳 FORD APPROVED!

[@dougroberts6606]

How do you know Ford approved?

[@ihaveworms2078]

Since you are adding a hole to the intercooler, are you loosing boost pressure since air is just going to be continuously blowing out the hole?

[@DoRC]

Ihaveworms A small hole won't make much difference.

[@DonkeyEvo]

The turbos can easily compensate for such a small hole.. keep in mind the engine consumes air constantly that the the turbos provide and would easily over pressurize the engine at wot and high rpms if it was not regulated. That small hole is no issue.

[@myid9876543]

Ihaveworms the other commenters and yourself are right, you will lose pressure, it won't matter because the turbo will make its pressure quota anyway, the real problem is now the mismatch between measured air at the air flow sensor and actual air entering the engine. this constitutes an intake leak, throwing the fuel trims off. a real problem on a turbo motor, the trims may even swing between positive and negative depending on driving conditions (uphill on a Fwy vs 25mph on flat ground, fuel trims responding to high boost vs negative pressure in the intake) potentially making diagnosis confusing/difficult

[@kleetus92]

I am certain that the difference in air volume vs measured pre compressor is well within the margin of error of the sensor array of sensors that indicate the actual quantity of air being fed into the engine. Failing that, even if it DID make a difference, the result would be a slightly rich mixture since there would be in theory less air present than calculated, and rich never killed a motor. Lean will eat a piston in short order. Worst you'd do is foul a plug. If you wanted to be super anal about it and I don't remember which side of the throttle plate this is in the system, worst case under a decelerating high rpm vacuum condition you could suck a little dirt in, so maybe routing that port through an oil filter might be an option to make as a make shift air cleaner. Real world difference: Zero.

[@MrDrmorbid]

Dummy. The turbo will have to overspin to generate the same pressure, reducing its service life and, in some cases, causing failed bearings and center shafts. The way to do this, if one wants to do some drilling, is to make that hole, install a boss and then run a line to something on the intake side. This way pooled water will collect and disperse and no metered air will be lost. I also can't believe this was a problem from new. It's likely the intercooler is so dirty inside that the water is collecting in some bad areas due to sludge. I'm sure this guy never suggested an IC clean.

[@tony37068]

1/32" or 1/16" the most. Never, never 3/32 or 1/8". Yes, your turbo has pressure compensate function, but big hole will have turbo work hard to compensate the big hole leak, if too big, the compensation may not even able to make up the pressure loss.

[@slowfudgeballs9517]

I was also seeing a lot of people do 1/16th and above but I believe 1/32 is the best option as it only needs to drain very little over time.

[@TheTurpin1234]

Now its also a oil catch can, keeping the valves clean.

[@tony37068]

That hole is too big man, you said 3/32"?. it is Too Big!!! Small hole works better bcz all you need it to let out the dirt fluids, 0.7mm (1/32") is sufficient, anything bigger than 1mm (3/64") is unnecessary and cause drop in turbo efficiency. Big hole leaks air will cause turbo pressure build up slow, you will feel it lag in power or slow in acceleration. I drilled a 1/16" hole as Ford said, but still too big--you definitely felt it as you press gas peddle. I eventually plugged 1/16" hole up with resin and poked a smaller hole in the same place (before the resin is dry) with a thin needle (about 1/32" or so). Test drive with small hole, man, acceleration is much better. the dirty stuff still comes out ok.

[@randyjoseph462]

Why not install a cheap universal catch can system rather than just drill a hole?

[@Gtrjerry73]

bandaid fix that could cause you worse issues later down the road. the thing needs a catch can to collect all the oil vapor. I'm actually pretty shocked ford doesn't have a catch can from factory.

[@JEGsGarage]

Because then the owners would have to be responsible and empty the catch can. And most of them wouldn't. Catch cans are generally considered aftermarket. This engine combo is supposed to be turn key just like any other truck on the road. Unfortunately...the aftermarket sometimes has solutions that would make the factory stuff work SO much better...but the manufacturers wont adopt it. Catch can would 100% be a better fix especially if you could have it auto drain. Maybe back into the oil pan as long as there isnt much water in it.

[@XFHgog]

jeremiah white Why is a catch can necessary?

[@Gtrjerry73]

jclaunch00 ok so I did some more research and apparently the majority of the issue of condensation building up in the intercooler is probably due to the intercooler being too efficient. cooling the air too much and causing condensation to collect in the intercooler and piping. drilling a hole in your intercooler will allow the condensation to escape but it will also be a boost leak and a hole that will become a vacuum under idle and sucks in dirt/dust. so this is not a very responsible "fix" a blanking plate to make the intercooler less efficient would probably be the best fix. or just stop driving it like a grandma. as for the catch can. it's a separate issue but still a problem. any turbocharged engine suffers from excessive blow by which is just basically some of the combustion gasses pushing past the piston rings and pressurizing the crank case causing oil vapor to go through the pcv system. over time this causes deposits to build up on the intake valves which eventually build up enough to rob performance substantially. adding a catch can to the pcv system will catch the oil vapor prolonging the life of the engine in general.

[@oplex7687]

JEG's Garage I see what your saying honestly your catch can idea would work if it was automated , Instead of being dumped back into the oil pan it could tee'd off to oil feed lines to the turbo with a one way valve that correlates to the automated portion of the catch can, think of it as a throttle body but for oil .

[@CLENCHEDCURVE74]

our duramax is the same way the oily air from the pcv mixes with the soot from the egr and plugs up the intake

[@XFHgog]

Marc Somers Re route the PCV to the atmosphere past the cab.

[@CameronKelson]

You said that he's only done oil changes, spark plugs and coils. Out of curiosity, what was the check engine light for later on in the video? It obviously wasn't something crippling, because he continues to drive the truck, but apparently oil changes, plugs and coils aren't all it needs. I'm looking at getting a 2011 Eco used right now, which is why I ask.

[@epicenergy777]

Cameron Kelson. The key was on, but It was not running... I think.

[@Krankie_V]

Cameron Kelson the tachometer wss resting on zero. the light was on because the engine was not running.

[@mikeluscher159]

Does this also apply to 2.0 Ecoboost Fusions?

[@faisal3398]

You could've done what Ford done to their Focus RS, they used a small plate to block some airflow to prevent exactly what is happening in this case.

[@KTMcaptain]

Condensation shouldn’t cause misfire... it’ll just evaporate back into the air. That oily residue is what’s the problem. Oil reduces the effective octane rating of your fuel.

[@auskip07]

wouldnt installing a capped off hose or nozzle into the bottom of the IC and emptying it out every oil change be a better solution than creating a boost leak? .

[@eclypse3d]

It seems counter-intuitive to create a boost/vacuum leak, just catch can it and retain the correct pressure. I am not sure how many bars you are losing by drilling a hole in a sealed system like this. Not sure the fix is a reasonable tradeoff.

[@DivideAndConkor]

My 2012 Ecoboost only gets ~13-14 MPG and that's with it set to ~60 MPH on cruise going to and from work everyday. I think I need to change my plugs, drill my weep hole, and get a catch can since I had to replace my MAP sensor on top of the intake when I got the truck, with 68k miles on it, since it wasn't just dirty but permanently discolored. That has only been a month back but I've watched the MPG steadily drop from around 16-17 MPG to around 13 MPG now which is what I was getting in my 05 Yukon Denali with a big 6L Vortec.

[@mxthunder2]

i am 1000% against doing this. it is completely asinine

[@ryansimpson8564]

No its not. I had my motor replaced at 60k and receive my truck back, the problem continued so I drilled the hole and haven't had the issue since 130k

[@JayIsOutdoorsy]

What are the symptoms of the misfire problem? I have a 2016 that will throw an intermittent wrench light cruising at 65mph with cruise control. Recently help with wrench light issue replacing the trans oil pump.

[@dangrinderslev8135]

Thanks a bunch man I was worried about my truck I just bout it 3 months ago

[@andrewgrondahl6727]

I have a 2014 with 82K on it currently in ND. I have been having this shudder issue for that past couple (summer) months. Im looking into doing this to my pickup very soon.

[@azteck98]

original spark plugs i got 49k on mine ?

[@andrewgrondahl6727]

update. I did not drill the hole. I had a shop change coil pack, plugs and wires. My pickup runs great with no issues now.

[@vincentbrugetti7254]

But it will keep returning, and I’m sure, the mechanic knows this, but just not gunna say

[@Mebob2001]

makes 100% sence to make, i would install transmission vent just to keep shit from going in, but will allow pressure to go out, funny ford didnt think about it haha. and timing chains will be an issue at some point but thats not a ford issue thats because timing chains are a wear item.

[@fastvtgsx]

You fixed it by creating a boost leak and now making the turbos work harder. Good job.

[@kpemb84]

The turbos are not regulated.... they are operating at full capacity when you lay into it. The wastegate is what regulates how much boost is pushed into the engine

[@fastvtgsx]

I get what your saying, the turbo spins at a its maximum rpm no matter the boost level. But either way, this is not the correct way to fix the problem and it's laughable that a mechanic is claiming this is Ok and even good to do.

[@kpemb84]

I totally agree, it a a band aid on a gun wound

[@drewthompson7457]

Let's see - a 2.5" Or 3" diameter pipe at 19 lbs boost, vs a 1/8" hole....

[@stanleykania7184]

I drilled and installed the Caught can !! 128,000 now, good to go

[@joshtheking1772]

Thats not the problem. The problem is the truck doesnt have a catch can. With any turbo motor you need something to catch some of the blow-by going through the intake system and the vapors are building up on the PCV system and condensing inside the intake runner. You need to get and install a catch can so that those vapors can condense outside the engine and then re-introduce them back to the crankcase. Simple fix. Ford should have thought of this. Its not even a trick either, but rather common knowledge on boosted motors. If left long enough to happen it will build up on the back side of the intake valve and cause cylinder head failure. Never drill a hole into an intercooler. Reason for this is simple. Incoming air is filter just before the turbo after that its all open into the intake manifold.

[@sethmartin9814]

Perfect way to create a boost leak

[@tituslarsson1475]

Dirt and water can get in when your not under boost. Maybe install a check valve or plug the hole with a screw when your done draining it.

[@angelov1217]

Why didn't you just install a catch can to trap the oil?

[@mauroalvarezsi]

why not add an oil catch can or two of them?

[@maddesignsinc]

Thats a boost leak, now the truck wont build full boost. If a catch can were installed earlier you would have no oil in the intercooler

[@davidklimmek3192]

Someone in the comments mentioned the Ecoboost intercooler on 3.5 in this video was plastic!? Not true! it's metal of some sort. Lightweight I'm sure but it's a good size for optimal performance. Ecoboosts of all sizes mostly 3.5 & 2.0 are hitting 200k mis no problem ..it's on many forums! all orig with orig turbos..engines running very well. Ford designed these I'm sure to easily hit 200k plus! This a (gen1) 2011 1st year Ecoboost was avail on F150!

[@eformance]

I wonder if ford is going to come out with a TSB that adds a hole to the intercooler and a catch can to recover and recycle the liquid into the PCV intake port on the inlet of the turbos?

[@John76546-x]

This isn't any different then what we do with the VW TDI inter cooler. except we put a screw in the hole between oil changes. At oil change, remove the screw to drain inter cooler. Oil will come out. Good thing is it prevents it building up and being sucked up into engine under hard acceleration. For diesel that would cause a run away engine,

[@Rcaceres]

how the hell is he getting 22.3 mpg lol i wish i had that! i am only getting 13.9 @ 65-70mph, today i just did the sparks , boots and air filter. let's see if that works for me. brand new tires also at 40psi

[@moeshouse575]

if you put a rubber sheet over the hole and poked a hole in it with a needle. would work to. and you are right the hole size wont be bad for the way it runs.

[@anomamos9095]

I'd try a oil catch can on the PCV before drilling any holes . It would be a two birds one stone thing too.

[@jacobreynolds9736]

Anom Amos catch can won’t stop the condensation issue, only mitigates the oil blow by. Condensation is forming from the drastic drop in hot compressed air coming from turbos to begin rapidly cooled in cooler to throttle body

[@phammond68]

did the catch can a couple months ago as well as updated to the brown pcv valve with no change in the acceleration shudder

[@robwrtrusso88]

Catch can bro. Turbo engines need a catch can Otherwise your getting gas, oil and water into your crankcase and builds up carbon in your combustion chamber, intercooler and valves. Just about every import turbo tuner car has one and although the EcoBoost is not a import, it is a turbo!

[@larryruben5681]

What makes the oil drip out, a leak? I get it about the condensation, however why is it black & oily???

[@jmc6000]

A catch can will take care the "oil in the intercooler" issue.

[@ryanravencaller]

someone commented get a gm and someone else commented their gm does it too lmao

[@MXZEric]

You shouldn't have any oil residue coming out of the charge side or exhaust side of the turbo. If there is, the turbo shaft seal/s are probably leaking...