Holley Carb Flooding Out Vent Tube | Troubleshooting Holley Carburetors | Holley Carb Secrets |

I'm sure most of you have had a flooding issue or a carb running rich and you just don't realize whats going on and even if you do happen to figure out what is happening, sometimes you don't even know what to look for. Holley carbs are some of the most versatile car parts but even they have their own set of issues. holley carburetors depend on a well balanced fuel level in order for them to work correctly. Once the balance is tipped to one side or the other, you can have several problems such and fuel coming out the vent tube, have the holley carb secondaries flood, holley carb running rich, holley carb hard start and even fuel leaks and dripping from boosters. So come by, sit back, relax, and enjoy the show to learn a little bit more about holley carb tuning!
Holley Carb Flooding Out Vent Tube | Troubleshooting Holley Carburetors | Holley Carb Secrets |
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Finally getting around to making this video, everyone loves the HP main bodies because they look super racecar with the adjustable air bleeds on top. What if I was to tell you that you can install custom air bleeds on any holley carb as long as its a squarebore? There is just enough meat on the top of these older holley carbs to allow you to install the adjustable bleeds, but you would be very careful when doing so because you can ruin your main body real quick!
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HOLLEY CARB AIR BLEED INSTALLATION | DIY Air Bleeds For A Holley Carburetor | Holley Carb Secrets
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HOW TO SET HOLLEY IDLE MIXTURE AND IDLE SPEED | Holley Carb Secrets | Holley Carburetor
After A long while I have put the most cohesive method of setting up the idle on your holley carb. Setting the idle mixture screws and getting your engine to run clean without having to buy any special tools. In this video I manage to set up the idle in less than 15 mins and also do it quickly and easily. As of right now, the holley carb on the 318 duster is perfectly set up in both idle mixture and idle speed. The carburetor in question is a DEMON 625, an older barry grant holley copy before holley bought out DEMON. It took a little bit of work, but I've got this set up perfectly.
5 Secrets For Tuning And Adjust Holley Carbs That The Pro Builders Wont Tell You | Carb LS |
Tuning Holley carbs are probably the most widely used carb is all of automotive history. The Holley 4 barrel is a staple among racers and cruiser a like but too few people really understand what goes on inside their Holley carb and too many decide to ditch the old carb in favor of a new one. I am here to share 5 secrets you can employ TODAY to get that Holley nice and tuned and running better than ever in true DIY fashion. I'm put to work these 5 secretes to get my Carb ls going so these are definitely something you need to keep in mind. Tuning a holley carb is what separates the boys from the racers. Depending on how well this video does, I'll be breaking up and going into full detail of what goes on specifically in the different circuits as well so stay tuned!
SETTING UP AND TUNING HOLLEY IDLE AND TRANSITION CICUITS | Holley Carb Secrets |How To Tune A Holley
How to set idle on a holley and other such questions are answered! Holley carb wont idle? Car wont idle? Holley carb runs rich? Holley carb wont start hot? All these questions AND MORE will be answered TODAY. too many people have no idea how the holley idle and transition circuit work on a holley carb. too many people belong to the set it and forget it line of thinking when it comes to out of the box carbs and not too many really know whats going on and decide to just give the carb a bad rap. Well, today we are going into an in depth tutorial and explaining on how these systems work and how you can get more out of your carburetor, maybe even pull up a few MPGs while you are at it!
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[@steamboat1341]

Thank you so much. I converted a ford 460; in a bale wagon, from a mechanical fuel pump to an in-line pusher pump with fuel regulator. When I would attempt to start it I had fuel running out the top breather tower and in the boosters. I cleaned the breather holes and sure enough my o ring on needle seat was flat and brittle when removed. I put the new R-03 o ring on as following your directive adjusted it to where it sat just below the adjusting nut tightened it down, prayed to the Holley carb god, it started right up and IDLED. Went to the field to pickup bales it not only had good power but idled and ran so much cooler, thank you for sharing your knowledge a breath of fresh air in a crazy world we live in, take care saved my butt.

[@NightWrencher]

Thats awesome, good to hear! Great job!

[@SaraBibeau]

Forgot one other item to check My float was full gas so that caused my flooding issue. In 50 years of holley never had a flot go bad

[@keithbradbury6203]

Thanks for the video, it helped me diagnose the problem on my carb.

[@NightWrencher]

Thats awesome man, I'm glad it helped!

[@timfredericks5427]

Very helpful. Thanks for this video!

[@NightWrencher]

Thank you! I appreciate it!

[@davidgoodwin658]

Very well made video. I have been working on Holley carburetors and this was new information about the "O" ring.

[@NightWrencher]

The oring is actually the cause of a lot of problems. The needle and seat isnt the issue most of the time.

[@scottbrown321]

Thanks you. great information!

[@NightWrencher]

Thank you! Hope it helps!

[@80ZX]

Awesome Video, having flooding issues on my secondaries. Will look into each of these points. Thanks from Australia Mate.

[@NightWrencher]

Good luck!

[@montygrant6254]

Thanks for this video was really helpful

[@NightWrencher]

You're welcome!

[@HotRodTom47]

VERY GOOD VIDEO, GREAT JOB!!

[@NightWrencher]

Thanks man, I appreciate it!

[@bomberobus]

Awesome job. I have same issues with dual EPC 34’s on MY VW’s. Without my fuel pressure regulators to fine tune the psi they’d run terribly. With them, it’s a dream. Coo vid!

[@NightWrencher]

Thank you! I learned that the hard way too!

[@fastlanebruce]

Very helpful bro thanks

[@NightWrencher]

Much appreciated!

[@Str8sixfan]

This was fantastic. Super helpful! Thank you so much!

[@NightWrencher]

Glad it was helpful!

[@infamousnova]

This is a good video, lots of info! Now that my first start was a success ill start tracing down my issues lol

[@NightWrencher]

One step at a time and youll get it 👍

[@infamousnova]

@@NightWrencher im just happy it fired up. Still had an issue with the needle and seat after, took it apart and found a lil dirt clogged it from the cutting of fuel line. Now I need to check float levels and all the other stuff. Last time I tried to check the fuel pressure it came shooting out at me lol

[@NightWrencher]

I keep it at 5.5. Even a worn seat will work well at a lower psi

[@infamousnova]

@@NightWrencher yea I got this marshall fluid filled fuel gauge that skips a few numbers

[@ericchavez6053]

thanks for the video this just helped me! holes needed cleaning and needle has a little bit of gunk in it. legend! Can i use carb cleaner whilst the carb is on the car to spray into those holes??

[@Mai-uu8yh]

👌👍

[@NightWrencher]

👍

[@lennybaldacchino]

great vedio loll wish i can gives ya million scribe that u deserves thank u so much, my holly secondary had made a new kit, by trades men, still leaks after stoped, so theres other issues i really learned too, thank u all boys

[@NightWrencher]

Thank you and good luck!

[@bsrob1]

My street brawler had float out of adjustment for a bit. Over filling the bowls. I re adjusted but now it wants to blow a blackish white smoke out the pipes. Ur video makes me believe I could have clogged air bleeds? It’s a pretty much new carb. 650 double pumper street brawler

[@NightWrencher]

If its a new carb, I dont think you'll have any issue with the air bleeds. I would check fuel pressure first and then after I verify thats its under 6.5psi, reset the idle adjustments

[@brittharms978]

NightWrencher RULES !!!!

[@NightWrencher]

I appreciate it!

[@NightWrencher]

It looks like the specs for the oring that I use is R-03 008 3/16, 5/16, 1/16. I'm not 100% sure on that but Ill try to verify it asap

[@danconnors8961]

Great explanation of bowl issues. I had a car that sat for a while and now the carb is pushing gas out the top. It is a 2 brl carb so I am guessing the basics are the same. I remember pulling a VW Bug carb apart and cleaned it up, put it back together and all was just fine. Hoping the same here. Good thought on new gas (the old stuff was pretty bad) and maybe that will clean up the issue. I'll start the easy fixes first before pulling anything apart. Sure appreciate the guidance. Fuel pressure is interesting, this is a 69 Mustang, 250 ci 6cyl engine. Any recommendation for a fuel pressure regulator?

[@NightWrencher]

Thats a really common issues with holleys that sit. Accel pump diaphrams get stiff too and the pump shot gets weak. Pull out the needle and seat and check if the oring is still good. If its flat, you need to replace it but if it still sticks out a bit, a fuel pressure regulator should help a lot. Oreilly usually stocks a holley one. Its precalibrated to 4-5psi so you can install it inline the fuel line and youll be good to go.

[@marcosagredano6376]

Did you post part numbers

[@stankyd937]

Very informative video! I am having an extreme problem with my Rinker boat with a 4 barrel carb. This unit is non adjustable which I think is normal of marine units. So fuel is pouring out of my front and rear tube now that I let the boat sit last summer(skin cancer issues). I just replaced new Holly needle and seat and same problem still. This boat has ran great for 4 years since I replaced engine/carb. Really messed up letting it sit last year! This needle and seat is just a pointy rubber coated tip. The old ones did seem worn a bit. Yet, new ones did not change the fuel spilling. I just tried to vent floats down more and didn't help. I sprayed the 2 holes per barrel a few times with carb cleaner. Guess I need to buy a gage and regulator next as I'm stumped. It's just a Carter pump that runs 4psi. I have no idea why I would all of a sudden have high fuel pressure. Any thoughts?

[@NightWrencher]

First thing I would check would be fuel pressure and fuel quality. Old fuel doesnt let the need seat well and can cause issues. If fuel pressure checks out, clear out the tanks with fresh fuel(make sure you have an inline filter). After that, I would make sure none of the old rubber from the old orings is preventing the oring on the new needle to seal up. Good luck.

[@stankyd937]

@@NightWrencher thank you sir. I put a gauge on and it seems my 4psi non adjustable fuel pump is now putting out 15+ psi. Have you ever heard of an internal regulator failing? It's Carter and I think they are out of business now

[@NightWrencher]

@@stankyd937 you can buy replacements at the parts stores for not a lot of money. They might be redesigned off brand carter pumps

[@NightWrencher]

@@stankyd937 when pumps sit, their internal regulator can get blocked so i think that is whats happening

[@stankyd937]

@@NightWrencher will swap one in and report back. Thanks again. Best KZbin mechanic out here in this category!

[@johngranato2673]

The O-ring is good when it's proud--it sits proud. Btw, O-rings are not all made with the same materials. I suggest you replace the entire needle and seat assembly. It's money well spent!

[@NightWrencher]

I've been able to revive several sets of needles and seats so a few $ in orings already saved me close to $100 in needles and seats. But I go through a lot of carbs so maybe for someone who only works on 1 carb every once in a while, a new N&S isnt a bad idea

[@johngranato2673]

@@NightWrencher I replace the the N&S assemblies every 5 years or so on my classic car--together with PCV Valve, Plugs, Fuel Filter, Manual Trans and Diff oil, Coolant, Belts, and Tires. I don't want a new O-ring on an old N&S assembly that already has an old needle tip. It's cheap insurance against flooding and possible fire.

[@kerrygatling663]

Good video👍....But i do have a ? were can those little o-rings (R03) seals be purchase.

[@NightWrencher]

You can but a whole bunch of them from BPTCarbs on ebay for cheap. Theyre called needle and seat orings

[@kerrygatling663]

@@NightWrencher Thank you

[@johnhurley1023]

I have a Holley 4160 which will not run under 2000 revs. The fuel dribbles into the venturies rather than a mist can you help with a solution.

[@NightWrencher]

Hey man, I thought I had replied but I guess it didnt post. My recommendation would be to verify fuel pressure and make sure no fuel is coming out of the boosters at idle.

[@Granite]

Rebuilt my carb a year ago and it sat for a while. Found the orings to be completely flat and brittle. Are the R03 orings also advertised for ProTek RC Samurai 321B, S03? I see them listed all over by that name. Cheers.

[@NightWrencher]

You know, I dont think that number cross refferences. I have an SAE oring kit and the oring listed was R-03 but I'm not sure if thats an standard number or its a number just for the oring kit

[@Granite]

@@NightWrencher Lol yea they didn't fit. Plenty of people on ebay selling just the viton oring for most holley carbs. At about a dollar a piece too. Cheers

[@NightWrencher]

Oh nice tip. I've gotta check it out 👍

[@southernbreeze3278]

Nice vid. Okay to flush out the air bleeds while the carb's still bolted to the intake?

[@NightWrencher]

Take the bowls and metering blocks off and youll see the 4 small holes for the air bleeds on either side of the boosters. You can spray carb cleaner through those holes and they should blow everything out the top

[@southernbreeze3278]

@@NightWrencher Thanks!

[@user-nj6yl6lg2t]

Great video, as usual. I wonder if you might have some thoughts on my current situation. Holley 770 street avenger with 13.5 AFR and 8 psi fuel pressure soon after choke turns off but not yet hot. After a few minutes the fuel pressure drops to 5-6 psi, which is great. Then, the fuel pressure continues decreasing to 2-3 psi and fuel starts spitting out of primary bowl vent tube and AFR drops to 11 or lower. This is a bit confusing since high fuel pressure would cause needle to unseat but not low fuel pressure. Also, vapor lock would starve fuel and AFR should jump above 14 etc. Could boiling or percolation in bowl cause fuel to discharge from vent tube and raw fuel cause low/rich AFR? Just to note, as pressure drops, fuel should boil at a lower temperature hence my concern about boiling fuel in bowl. Winter blend fuel is probably not helping the situation.

[@NightWrencher]

Let me ask you this, what fuel pressure regulator are you using?

[@user-nj6yl6lg2t]

@@NightWrencher no regulator. using Holley 110 GPH mechanical fuel pump and I was told it wasn't needed. However, I can watch fuel pressure start at 8-9 psi during startup.

[@NightWrencher]

Every fuel pump that I have seen, needs a regulator on a modern holley. If you install even a cheap holley parts store regulator, it'll run way better. Anything past 6psi has enough pressure to push past the needle and seat slowly but surely. Once the bowl is over filled, the needle sticks open and bleeds all the pressure into the bowl. Install a regulator and I can almost guarantee that your problem will be fixed

[@user-nj6yl6lg2t]

@@NightWrencher That's the plan (and return line). Thanks so much for the information, very helpful.

[@rasadondada]

2:40 this is currently happening to my Holley carb while idle and especially if I accelerate. If I replace the brass needle will that fix the problem? Are there additional steps I should take after replacing the needle?

[@NightWrencher]

I would at least pull it out and visually inspect it. If it looks dry or flat, go out and pick up a new needle and seat. But before you do anything, check your fuel pressure. I've seen tons of oe replacement mechanical fuel pumps put out at least 8psi brand new which would overpower the seat pressure in the bowl. Too many people blame the carb and have it rebuilt or replaced only to have the same problem happen again.

[@rasadondada]

@@NightWrencher you wouldn't happen to have a video on how to check the fuel pressure would you? Lol

[@NightWrencher]

Lol no, its really easy, most parts stores can lend you a gauge or harbor freight sells cheap gauges too. You really just need to check it once while its idling and that's it. if its higher than 6psi, youll need to put a regulator between the mechanical pump and the carb, but if its lower than 6psi you can move on to checking the needle and seat

[@rasadondada]

@@NightWrencher will do thanks man

[@cuda6496]

What are the numbers on the needle and seat o-ring I can't find it Thanks

[@NightWrencher]

I'll try to find out and put it in a pinned comment but its one of the smaller SAE ones in the generic kits. About $9 at harbor frieght and $15 on summit. Has to be the red one. The blue one is metric

[@NightWrencher]

www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w5202?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuoqABhAsEiwAdSkVVFyvSw7uKV3cJIMOwDK9jcngKyC6JRN9QV17xvO7Ab_2yDUdVEsL1hoCOUcQAvD_BwE

[@NightWrencher]

Cross referenced the number and I put the specs on the pinned comment

[@blaizelucas4186]

I have an old holly without the float adjustment, and it’s spewing gas out the breather, I just cleaned it and it’s still doing it, what else can I possibly do?

[@NightWrencher]

Do you have a fuel pressure regulator on it?

[@blaizelucas4186]

@@NightWrencher no I do not, but should I need one with a factory pump?

[@NightWrencher]

It depends entirely on fuel pressure. Have you checked it?

[@blaizelucas4186]

@@NightWrencher not yet but I’ll try today, by any chance do I have to readjust the floats like I would a edelbrok?

[@NightWrencher]

I'm not sure, what is the list # on your carb?

[@MrMrBigro]

I have a 4150 carb it seen no fuel is going into the engine the fuel bowl is full a fuel any idea

[@NightWrencher]

The only time youll see fuel is when you hit the accelerator and the accel pump nozzle shoot fuel. Is that what you mean?

[@MrMrBigro]

@@NightWrencher well at first it wet all the plug and after a new set it seems all dry I will change the oil and see