Home Powder Coating Ultimate Guide - Pro Tips & Tricks!

TIME STAMPS, product links, and paint color options below!
Satin Black Powder Coat Paint - amzn.to/2uPjFJc
Eastwood Powder Coaring System - www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powd...
124 pc. Complete High Temp Masking Set - amzn.to/2Nrs3W9
Magicpro Laser Infrared Thermometer - amzn.to/2JB5sUP
TIME STAMPS:
00:30 - Equipment and accessories needed overview
01:44 - Part coating challenges and considerations
03:21 - Proper prep for powder coating
04:19 - Paint filling and precautions
05:30 - Proper paint spraying pressure and pattern
06:16 - Paint baking temperature and time
06:39 - Grounding and its critical importance
07:22 - Gun charging and usage how to
07:49 - First coat of paint with proper dust cloud
08:12 - Second coat of paint with close up view
08:43 - How to tell if paint is light and more is needed
09:40 - Filling in light areas of the paint
10:10 - Why not to aim gun at part when starting to paint
10:21 - Unmasking part before baking
11:08 - Preparing to place part in oven
11:57 - Baking and checking part temperature
12:41 - Notes on part temperature and its importance
13:20 - Finished baking and checking finish
14:10 - Full view and handling of painted and baked part
14:51 - Finished product and advantages of powder coat
15:19 - Cleaning powder coat gun and accessories
16:11 - Eastwood system review and critiques
16:49 - Final notes and thank you for watching
EVERYTHING YOU NEED overview video with more links:
• Powder Coating At Home...
More Powder Coating Accessories:
Etekcity Laser Infrared Thermometer - amzn.to/2LyH5Jq
30 PSI High Quality Air Pressure Regulator - amzn.to/2zQQ5YS
Air Moisture Separator Filter - amzn.to/2ux8hSa
Goodyear 3 Foot Whip Hose - amzn.to/2O1usrV
Tekton 3 Foot Whip Hose - amzn.to/2uxrxz3
Astarye 12 pc. ¼ NPT Industrial Fitting Set - amzn.to/2JzP1bb
Cheap Large Toaster Oven - amzn.to/2NZcjuJ
Other Powder Coating System Options:
Powder Coating Kit (Gun, System, Paint, Accessories) - amzn.to/2uyH6GF
Chicago Electric Powder Coating System - amzn.to/2msU2cN
Grizzly T25100 Powder Coating Machine - amzn.to/2NrMbr9
High Temperature Masking Needs:
160 pc. High Temp Silicone Plug & Cap Set - amzn.to/2LttfHU
350 pc. High Temp Silicone Plug & Cap Set - amzn.to/2uwEsRK
44 pc. High Temp Silicone Plug Set - amzn.to/2O3BSuq
80 pc. High Temp Silicone Plug Set - amzn.to/2Lrnu0Y
175 pc. High Temp Silicone Plug Set - amzn.to/2NsnTNE
40 pc. High Temp Silicone Cap Set - amzn.to/2LslCl3
80 pc. High Temp Silicone Cap Set - amzn.to/2Lm8vFd
5 Rolls High Temp Masking Tape (Various Sizes, Cheap) - amzn.to/2zSkFkI
5 Rolls High Temp Masking Tape (Various Sizes, Expensive) - amzn.to/2O1pnzR
50 Powder Coating Metal V Hooks - amzn.to/2LhTDrr
----------
Powder Coat Paint Colors:
----------
BLACK
Fine Texture - amzn.to/2Luzrj8
High Gloss - amzn.to/2LyCPtq
Matte Flat - amzn.to/2LkJxpS
Mirror Gloss - amzn.to/2LkVtYx
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2NsWz25
BLUE
Flat - amzn.to/2zQVChR
Baby Blue Gloss - amzn.to/2JAFVes
High Gloss - amzn.to/2NpvzR0
Midnight - amzn.to/2NsWCLj
Navy Blue Gloss - amzn.to/2Ljwll8
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2LnOlL4
BRONZE
Satin - amzn.to/2Lk59Tn
Sterling Copper - amzn.to/2JAoWcp
BROWN
Chocolate Gloss - amzn.to/2uzRbmF
CLEAR
High Gloss - amzn.to/2Lk5FRj
Matte Flat - amzn.to/2L6fBhW
Satin Semi Gloss - amzn.to/2uxhUQH
Super Durable Gloss - amzn.to/2uw53hK
GOLD
Metallic - amzn.to/2uHKHBv
GRAY
Anthracite High Gloss - amzn.to/2uxkaYb
Gunmetal Flat - amzn.to/2JANO3o
High Gloss - amzn.to/2uyZa3j
Steel Pearlescent - amzn.to/2O1VaRg
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2uyvH9Q
GREEN
Army Olive Drab Flat - amzn.to/2LiuZXJ
Flat - amzn.to/2Nsr7AK
Neon - amzn.to/2NqWZ8Y
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2NpdbI4
PINK
Neon - amzn.to/2NYiWNQ
ORANGE
Burnt Orange - amzn.to/2Lk2pW1
Chevy Orange - amzn.to/2NpdmmI
High gloss - amzn.to/2NsuOqf
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2zSTDtA
PURPLE
Flat - amzn.to/2Lg8VNF
High Gloss - amzn.to/2zTIg4E
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2NYi7op
RED
Blood Red High Gloss - amzn.to/2L5og4m
Flat - amzn.to/2uySHp5
High Gloss - amzn.to/2Nu1hML
Maroon - amzn.to/2LhuyNz
Wrinkle - amzn.to/2uypyKS
SILVER
Chrome - amzn.to/2zTfqkY
Metallic - amzn.to/2Lrr6jy
Sterling Charcoal Gunmental - amzn.to/2uyu5Nk
YELLOW
Neon - amzn.to/2LnLCS2
High Gloss - amzn.to/2NuNl5w
WHITE
Flat - amzn.to/2JAGcxR
Satin Semi Gloss - amzn.to/2LgIPdl
Salt Resistant Gloss - amzn.to/2uAeFrI
Super Durable Gloss - amzn.to/2zSRuy2
#PowderCoat #PowderCoating #802Garage #DIY #HowTo

[@johnramos5539]

I powder coat for a living, 40 foot paint booth and 40 foot oven. If you have a complex part or parts you should start with any inside corners or channels first, lower your air pressure and powder feed rate- check often for coverage in those tough spots then readjust settings to normal operating range and then paint the entire part with smooth even passes. Remember, your paint job is only a good as your prep work. And anyone that questions that you can't paint at a high kv setting does not have proper gun control. I paint thousands of parts a week. Learn your craft, practice and don't be afraid to take notes even if it was a failure. Adjust and try again. You can do it!

[@802Garage]

Yeah we had a 20 foot booth and probably a 60 foot oven that was all on a conveyor system. Pretty crazy. Great advice on starting with inside corners and channels, I wish I had covered that better. All of your advice is spot on. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting!

[@johnramos5539]

It's my pleasure to help in any way. Thank you for the video and for helping others.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

John Ramos, You blokes are awesome. You both have spent a long time learning how to coat properly and then you are willing to freely share that hard earned knowledge with everyone. That’s pretty generous of you. I’m just starting out so it’s great to learn what to do and what not to do before making mistakes. I had no idea about the Faraday effect but it makes perfect sense once you explained it so there’s a potential head scratcher solved before it happens. My sincere thanks to you both. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺

[@802Garage]

@@scroungasworkshop4663 Only just saw this, but thanks for the kind comment and you're very welcome! Hope coating is going well.

[@DREAMVIZON8]

@@802Garage is there such thing as matte powder-coated paint?

[@VehicleVirals]

Dude this golden! Much more complicated than I originally thought lol. Definitely worth the attempt though. Thanks for the guide!

[@802Garage]

Thanks a lot! I hope I didn't make it seem TOO complicated. I want to make a shorter version of this for people in a hurry, hah. The main things are basically make sure it is clean, make sure it is well grounded, put on enough paint to cover the metal, bake it for a bit. The results are pretty cool though and it's fun. Thanks a lot, as always! Let me know if you ever try it out.

[@MtGarage]

Great review and very detailed. Thanks for putting it out. Def considering a kit like this!

[@802Garage]

You're welcome! Thanks for commenting. It's a lot of fun in the end. :)

[@jackflash6377]

We're just about to start powder coating our products. I've watched a dozen or more videos today and no doubt this is the most informative video yet. Thank you for that. I used your links to pick up the plugs and black paint. Already have the Eastwood dual voltage gun and a larger oven we found on Craigslist. We have built a small paint booth out of PCV and plastic sheeting. 6 x 6 x 8 with fans, filters and lighting. Can't wait to put all the new found knowledge and equipment to use next week.

[@802Garage]

Well thank you very much! That's really what I was aiming for is a fully informative video. There are a lot of decent powder coating videos out there, but most of the people making them had only a surface level understanding of the process. So I'm glad to hear you feel that way! Also really appreciate you using the links. Some of this stuff can actually be hard to find for a reasonable price, but is super helpful to have. I still need to get a larger oven myself. Want to do wheels eventually. Sounds like you are all set up! What products do you make that you want to coat?

[@FullySpooled]

It turned out awesome. Nice work. Thorough demonstration as well. I'm pretty sure I'd never have the patience to powder coat things myself, but good to know there's a solid resource if/when I do. :)

[@FullySpooled]

Also holy video description! I feel like you spent longer on that than the video!

[@802Garage]

Oh how I wish that was true. Making the description didn't take too long, but I probably went overkill. Partially was having fun researching paint colors. Honestly once you are set up it really doesn't take long. Part prep is about like normal, preheat an oven, paint the part and put it in. Dries faster than wet paint, hah. Thanks a lot. If you ever have questions let me know of course. ;)

[@mitsubishikid1187]

Great video this will help a lot of people starting out with powder coating system, I just recently took delivery of the dual voltage setup from eastwood, and just to let you guys know it also lacks the seal, hopefully eastwood will see this video and update the product for future buyers keep at it.

[@802Garage]

Thanks a lot! Yeah the main complaints with the system seem to be the crappy threads for the paint jars and the poor sealing. I think I'll put some speaker gasket or weather stripping where the jar mates with the gun to help it seal nicely.

[@hardndbuilds3527]

Great work Aaron good demonstration can definitely see us giving it a go

[@802Garage]

Thanks and awesome! Let me know if you need any tips. It's really not too hard, but as with anything there is a difference between "done" and "done right" hah.

[@BradGryphonn]

Very cool video buddy. You've got me interested in powder coating now.

[@802Garage]

Wow guess I never saw this and replied. Thanks a lot!

[@williambowen3186]

I think you do a great job explaining how this is done. Clear and to the point good job thank you

[@802Garage]

Thanks a lot! Glad to help. :)

[@louisevassil2126]

Well done mate. Very well explained.

[@802Garage]

@@louisevassil2126 Much appreciated!

[@CarsSimplified]

Another fantastic video! Full of info and no fluff. Curious about the baking process... is there room for going further, like baking it at a higher temperature or for a longer time, or does that risk ruining the end results?

[@802Garage]

Basically powder coat can be "under baked" or "burnt" if you will. Not going long or hot enough can result in and unfinished product that doesn't have the correct finish and will very easily flake off because it didn't fully melt and adhere. Going too long can cause the paint to become brittle, essentially, and it will crack or flake off easily from impact or scratching, which obviously isn't what you want. There is basically a solid range in which the paint will be properly baked, but yes it can be screwed up. At the factory I had to use a mil checker to make sure paint was the right thickness and every so many parts I had to use a clawed cutting tool to score the paint in a checker pattern and make sure the checks don't flake off. Thanks as always!

[@CarswithNash]

Great video!

[@802Garage]

Thanks a lot, as always!

[@wideband]

I definitely need to do this on some parts of my Volvo build...

[@802Garage]

Using a rattle can is always fun, but there is something super satisfying about holding a powder coated part. :D

[@parajeeper]

Super cool!

[@802Garage]

Thanks a lot!

[@aworkingmanspride2494]

Thank u so much I'm so grateful for your video ☺️

[@802Garage]

You're very welcome! I appreciate the comment. :)

[@yeboscrebo4451]

Great video thank you

[@802Garage]

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.

[@mattmoore7796]

I just found out about powder coating bullets a few months ago. Nice video and informative.

[@802Garage]

Why would you powder coat a bullet? Thanks though!

[@mattmoore7796]

802 Garage When you cast lead bullets, you want to lube them or when they are fired they leave lead residue in the barrel. You want a lube that stays solid in all temperatures. It is a messy process at best. It was discovered you can powder coat bullets and get the same benefits as using lube. Check out FortuneCookie45 and Elvis Ammo. Very informative.

[@802Garage]

I was thinking it might be something like that. That's really awesome! Thanks for answering.

[@gatorguida4483]

Very informative

[@802Garage]

Thank you!

[@OzBull]

well done mate.

[@illhaveanother4365]

Goodeyemight

[@BIGB-TOWN]

I hear if you're using dual voltage Eastwood powder coat gun, that it's a good idea to set the voltage to the lower setting after the high setting, and it should stick better on the light spots that aren't taking powder. I guess too much voltage in some areas won't allow the powder to stick. Great video!

[@802Garage]

Yes, that's very true! Lower voltage is better for getting into tight spots and concave areas of a part, such as corners inside of a box. More voltage means more Faraday cage effect means it repels the paint! It takes some experience to get it just right. Thanks a lot!

[@BIGB-TOWN]

@@802Garage Look forward to seeing more of your content. I'm going to be putting on some content of my powder coating setup soon. Already got the 80 Gallon Air compressor, the Eastwood blast cabinet, Eastwood gun, and the Big oven. Plan on upgrading the gun to a Gema Optiflex 2, soon.

[@802Garage]

Wow that's amazing! You planning to do it as a business? That's quite an investment! I hope you didn't get the 80 gallon just for powder coating, hahaha. I'll be checking it out for sure!

[@1messi1ful]

I have a question bro. I’m about to start powder costing small atv parts and I wanted to know. How the cooking/pre-heating process works. When cooking the part. Do you let it get to its desired temperature 400 degrees and then wait 15 minutes or how does it work? I’m urgent to know. Thanks!

[@802Garage]

So pre baking a part is a good idea for a few reasons, especially if it is made of thick metal. It helps remove any remaining moisture and oils. When the paint hits the part it will adhere more readily. The part will already be at or close to temperature so the baking process is simplified. The reason the last bit is important is yes, technically you are supposed to wait until the part is at or close to the temperature listed on the paint and then let it bake for the specified time. The metal of the part should be at XXX temperature for YY minutes to fully cure the paint. Luckily if you are a little off in temperature or time, most paints are fairly forgiving. Just try to get close and make sure the finish looks even. You can always test on a non essential part made of the same material first and then do some durability testing on the part. If the paint flakes off when you hammer on it for example or if the finish looks bad, your bake was probably off. Hope this helps!

[@gopherchucksgamingnstuff2263]

that type of cast is a heat-sink , my wife's wheels were too. that's why it was easy to get the 300 needed for the gunmetal grey

[@802Garage]

As long as you can get it all to melt and stay melty for a while, it'll usually work. :P

[@MRTuning704]

Hell yeah bro

[@toddcott9510]

Greetings from Scotland again. After getting an old electric oven and a none contact thermometer I have had some good results,, have you tried the chrome finish powder ? I understand it needs a clear coat finish. Anyway your video has been most helpful, many thanks.

[@802Garage]

Sorry, I thought I had replied to this! I'm glad you were able to get better results. :) I have not done chrome yet, but I do know most of them need a clear finish, yes. Whatever paint you buy should still have instructions on that, but if not, contact the seller or manufacturer.

[@moosedrummer1]

I’m sure those plants love that powder overspray.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha they fine. :P

[@justinnorton4433]

Lol. Its dust. Not going to hurt anything.

[@70Superbird]

I have the same system and I changed the button switch to a floor foot switch. It helps to free up a hand! and it only cost about 10 bucks. Try it!

[@802Garage]

Great idea! I was thinking of how I could adapt it to be on the handle or under the air trigger like a two stage trigger. If I use it a lot more, I'll definitely come up with something. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting.

[@godzillagojira7616]

Great video. I would never think of Powder coating in a garage but this is pretty cool system. You said you used high temp masking tape, if you didn’t take it off, would it be okay to bake it in the oven, also while spraying does the powder fall on to the floor or stick everywhere else?

[@802Garage]

Exactly! The high temp tape can be left on during baking and then peeled afterwards. It's MUCH easier. As for the excess paint, it is so fine that it essentially disappears and becomes one with ambient dust. It will leave a fine coating on whatever it lands on and over time can build up. Won't truly stick to anything unless it is itself solidly grounded. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting!

[@CraftwerksMC]

If I have a set of some really nice clean round containers is it OK to take the paint out of the bags and put them in the containers? Also I know you used a grinder but if someone uses a media blaster to clean the parts is there any other prep to do other than wiping it clean and pre-baking it? Also, if you powder and bake something that needed to be uncoated what is the best way to clean it off?

[@802Garage]

Absolutely fine to store the paint in any clean and dry container, but preferably air or at least water tight. Media blasting is a great way to prep for powder coat. Just make sure none of the media remains on the part, especially in corners or grooves. Thorough cleaning should be done and pre baking after doesn't hurt. Powder coat is very hard to remove. The best ways to take it off are with media blasting or sanding. You can also recoat something that has been powder coated, though it may not be as durable as original. Thanks for commenting and your great questions!

[@lstheworld1821]

Great video , do you need to just press the button to charge the gun or does it need to be held while spraying . Thanks

[@802Garage]

With this gun you have to hold the button because it charges the particles, the gun trigger releases air.

[@toddcott9510]

I had poor results on my firt attempt , but having watched your video I can already see some of my mistakes, so hopefully next time will have better finish. Many thanks.

[@802Garage]

Sorry your first foray wasn't the best. What went wrong? Lots of bubbling? I do hope my video helps! Let me know if you have any questions. :)

[@toddcott9510]

@@802Garage the powder may have been too thin & the home made oven worked on 2 hot air guns , got up to temp but may have been unstable. I now have old domestic oven. Not sure about Easwwoods powder ? my last attempt was not much better than thick paint. Will keep you posted. From a wet and windy Scotland. A

[@802Garage]

Gotcha. Yeah as long as you can no longer see any metal through the paint with a bright light, it should be a thick enough coat, but it doesn't hurt to have a little extra. Having consistent heat definitely helps. Remember that the metal needs to be up to temperature for the time specified by the paint, not just the oven. as far as I know Eastwood paint is fine, but honestly I think most paints you can buy are good. I did provide numerous links in my description, but being in Scotland they may not help. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

[@toddcott9510]

@@802Garage, One thing I noticed was that the finish was not the wet look you get like on a professional job. Quality powder is available from eBay now so no longer a problem. I will have a lazer thermometer for my next attempt. Your advice is much appreciated. A

[@802Garage]

Over or under baking of a gloss paint can leave it looking more matte too, but you could have also gotten the wrong paint. Let me know!

[@wtr4416]

Wow! Nice instructional! Quick question for you. I am looking at the PC 03-5 guns because they go up to 50kv and are variable down to 30kv. Any idea if these would be a better gun than the Eastwood? Thanks in advance!

[@802Garage]

Thank you! The quick answer is yes, it is probably a better gun overall and the variable voltage is helpful. How beneficial it will be depends on the parts you paint. Mostly it would be nice to lower the voltage to help cover tight areas and interior corners of parts.

[@wtr4416]

@@802Garage Thanks for the response! The gun starts at 50 and down to 30. Is 30 low enough typically?

[@802Garage]

While I honestly can't tell you with certainty, I think the lowest we ever used at the factory was around 20, so yes that should be plenty low for most jobs. Generally you can get a bit creative with air pressure and the distance at which you hold the gun to compensate if the voltage isn't perfect.

[@600miles]

After 3 years my Eastwood gun aluminum center loosened from the plastic barrel. I emailed Eastwood and they ignored me but the gun still works. Acetone or lacquer thinner is preferred for a cleaner. You should have wired the clutch arm directly to the oven shelf and yes, silicone high temp tape.

[@802Garage]

Why would I wire the clutch arm to the oven shelf? It only matters during coating.

[@outlawgarageracing6538]

I need to do my valve cover at some point. Thank you for this lol

[@802Garage]

Any time! Check out the links in the description. There are plenty of wrinkle options! Or ship it to me and I'll paint it. :P

[@outlawgarageracing6538]

802 Garage we defiantly will be picking up the kit you bought.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha sounds good. Green or purple would be sweet. Green Wrinkle - amzn.to/2JSSMbX Purple Wrinkle - amzn.to/2Ok9uED

[@outlawgarageracing6538]

802 Garage definitely gotta get the green

[@802Garage]

Siiick.

[@broderp]

I thought you ground the part so that the positive particles from the gun are attracted to the grounded parts, it's that whole opposites attract thing.....

[@802Garage]

You do ground the part, but the gun passes a negative charge to the particles. I believe the principle is the same as giving a positive charge would be, in that both positive and negative charges will be attracted to ground. I am not an expert on the exact principles behind that, but basically matter in either excited state will be attracted to the ground due to differences in field states. Ground is not "negative" in the way it is in a car "positive" and "negative" wiring scenario. It is more like a neutral, completely drained of charge state. I'll use a few quotes and links that I researched in trying to answer you. "Powder coating is based on the principle that objects with opposite electric charges (positive and negative) attract one another. Powder particles are negatively charged by passing them through a special spraying gun. This results in an electric field between the spray gun and the earthed component. The powder particles then follow the field lines and adhere to the product." hydram.co.uk/technical/powder-coating-technology/ "The interaction between two like-charged objects is repulsive. The interaction between two oppositely charged objects is attractive. What type of interaction is observed between a charged object and a neutral object? The answer is quite surprising to many students of physics. Any charged object - whether positively charged or negatively charged - will have an attractive interaction with a neutral object. Positively charged objects and neutral objects attract each other; and negatively charged objects and neutral objects attract each other." qr.ae/py8DNA Also funny enough, there is even an article on The Drive which gets this wrong. I checked with numerous powder coating sources though, and I am sure that at least with most systems, the particles are negatively charged. I have found multiple sources saying it's positive, but most I would consider authoritative do not. "This process applies a positive electrical charge to the powder as it’s sprayed." www.thedrive.com/guides-and-gear/what-is-powder-coating-explained Just to provide another source. "The application of powder coating relies on negatively charged dry powder being attracted to grounded metal parts. For the powder coating process, dry powder is shot through an electrostatic gun on to the metal exterior. The gun gives the powder a negative charge, and the negatively charged powder is attracted to the grounded part. The attraction results in fast, even application." seastareng.com/2019/08/30/powder-coating-vs-wet-coating/ Actually one more. I just found this explanation which also includes a video to discuss the more specific science going on. It seems the type of charging used by powder coating guns charges the air negatively as a consequence of how it works. So basically, the generated effect given the means dictates the charge. "As the powder exits the nozzle it travels through an ionised electrostatic field which had been created between the workpiece and electrode by the high voltage supply to the electrode. This results in the powder becoming negatively charged. The negatively charged particles are attracted to the grounded part and form the coating." www.allaboutprecision.co.uk/blog/why-use-powder-coating kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIDCk2OVn5pqp9U It's definitely confusing given conventional wisdom or basic knowledge. In the end I think they use a negative charge because it is easier to impart, using the corona charging effect, than it would be to give it a positive charge. I definitely won't claim to understand all the details, but I hope this helps!

[@fullyford]

I am looking getting something like this to do some small parts. ATV springs and stuff

[@802Garage]

Will definitely do the job. One quick note with springs is the inside likes to repel paint. Paint the inside first by sticking the nozzle inside the coil if you can, but don't touch the part. Thanks for watching and commenting. :)

[@fullyford]

@@802Garage thanks for the tip

[@802Garage]

Any time!

[@SveaPluton]

Oh yes!

[@802Garage]

Y'also got first! Thanks. :)

[@jeffross2639]

My gun kept dumping powder out instead of really shooting it out. And I was getting some static shocks. What was I doing wrong?

[@802Garage]

My guess would be that your air pressure was way too high. You could literally start with the regulator at 0 PSI and slowly turn it up until you have a nice even cloud coming out. As for the static shocks, could be a result of all the paint or possibly the ground not being attached properly to the part. Also make sure you are using a grounded outlet I would think. Let me know if the air pressure helps and I can try to help more if not!

[@boyjwz]

When i poedercoat the paint is very brakeble and it chips off very easy when i hit it whit my wrench or bolt on the part does somebody have some tips for me?

[@802Garage]

A few things can cause that. My first suspicion would be over baking. There is a specific amount of time the paint needs to cure at temperature and if you cook it much too long, it becomes brittle. Under baking can be just as bad, as the paint doesn't have a chance to melt into the surface of the metal and adhere, so make sure you are letting the metal reach full temperature before timing the bake. You can also preheat the part to help with adhesion, if you have a good way to hang it, paint it, and transfer it back to the over. Lastly, make sure the part is very clean and you can even key the surface by either sand blasting or sanding before paining. The key will help the paint bond to the surface. Hope this helps!

[@boyjwz]

@@802Garage thanks!

[@frankgrimes8714]

Really good video. I am curious if spending more for the dual voltage gun is worth the extra money.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha, love your name and picture, Grimey! I'm honestly not sure it's worth it unless you plan on using it a lot and doing complicated parts. The biggest place lower voltage is useful is inside of tight corners, anything 90 degrees or less with long walls. Like imagine if you wanted to coat the inside of a microwave for example, getting the inner corners without adjustable voltage can be extremely difficult. The biggest place higher voltage is useful is just large areas and thick metal. Makes the coating process quicker and you can hold the gun further away. With the single voltage gun, best to start in the hard to reach spots and get in a little close with low pressure if you need to. Then pull back and cover the large areas as uniform as possible.

[@802Garage]

Looked it up just to verify what I was saying and this link has a pretty concise and useful description. www.reliantfinishingsystems.com/powder-coating-gun-settings/

[@frankgrimes8714]

Thanks for the replies. Its really good to talk to someone who can explain it so well Eastwood kinda sucks at explaining the benefit of it, but that link is a gold mine of information. I am glad to meet someone also enjoys ol grimey. I loved how he called homer out on his crap and made it even funnier how crazy the show is.

[@802Garage]

Yeeeaaah, Eastwood products are honestly pretty decent, I own several. Some of their instructions and videos are just mediocre though. No problem on the replies and the info. Yes, Grimes was definitely one of the few to actually shake up the show, hah. Comment again any time.

[@kiesha104]

Bro, having been shocked by a buddies machine , I have a feeling g they want both hands full so you ha e to let go of the button to touch your project... Wasn't that bad of a shock though.. Change it out for a foot pedal.. Cool video I'm getting ready to PC a bunch of old Vette parts and paint it... Never did either before.. thanks

[@802Garage]

Yeah the separate gun trigger and button setup is annoying, but it's cheap! Best of luck.

[@greasepunk6619]

I get best results if I preheat the part and hot flock um

[@802Garage]

Yeah pre heating can definitely help, especially on thick metal parts or sometimes those with tight angles. Thanks!

[@alanchapman6170]

Thinking of building a furnace for powder coating (24"x 24"x 30" high), using a 110v hotplate for heat. But looking for a thermo switch 200 to 500F is proving to be a problem, anyone have a suggestion.

[@802Garage]

Actually yes I have been researching similar to eventually heat my parts washer with a water heater element. Most likely I think you'd want one of these adjustable digital units which comes with a probe and relay. amzn.to/2TZ487y amzn.to/2CyuGCs You could also buy the controller by itself and the probe and relay separate to make sure you get good quality. amzn.to/2UVE6PW amzn.to/2Fh2pAU amzn.to/2Cx8j0i amzn.to/2UQ71oo amzn.to/2YfP5FS amzn.to/2Om4job amzn.to/2FybNAD You could also potentially use a water heater thermostat such as one of these and manually wire it, thought i'm not sure where exactly you would want the back of it to mount to be accurate. amzn.to/2uoJZcv amzn.to/2FnN9CB amzn.to/2JABENi Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions about the application.

[@alanchapman6170]

@@802Garage Thank you, I will try one !

[@802Garage]

Ever get a chance to try this?

[@joec.1906]

If you use masking tape instead for the heat resistant tape then try using the blue painters tape. Blue painters tape will pull off much easier.

[@802Garage]

I think this may have just been crummy tape, hah. Definitely a good idea though! Just remember not to bake it with the masking/painters tape on. The correct tape which can be baked is linked in the description too. :)

[@thatguyontheright1]

What happens with you have paint contamination? Does it change the color, make it harder to melt?

[@802Garage]

It depends on the type of paint on the part. If the paint can handle the hear of the oven and is well adhered to the part, you may not see any major negative effect. If the paint starts to melt or off gas or discolor in the oven under the powder coat, it's very likely it will discolor, have porosity, or flake off easily. The main concerns are that paint under the powder coat will reduce adherence and corrosion protection after going through the over. I mean the type of paint on the part before powder coating. I just realized you may have meant what if the powder gets contaminated. The most common type is moisture. If there is moisture in the paint, it can be clumpy, clog the gun, shoot out in sudden bursts, and stick to the part in large globs. All of this will mean a less consistent finish and possibly too much paint or an ugly result. Too much moisture could also mean porosity of the finish or poor adherence. If there is contamination like dust or dirt, it mostly just means there will be visual nibs in the paint and poor adherence where they attach to the part. The contaminates will flake off easily leaving a bare or damaged spot in the paint. Hope I somehow answered!

[@thatguyontheright1]

@@802Garage ah, so different paints can cause a bad time. Ok. Never powder coated so eh

[@802Garage]

@@thatguyontheright1 Right, just like with normal paint, it's all about the prep. The big difference with powder coat is you really ideally want bare metal for the paint to adhere to.

[@ccmyharley]

Stop opening the oven door the Raytec can read thru the glass in which you won't lose temp from opening the door...

[@802Garage]

Thanks for the tip. I sort of assumed it would read the temperature of the glass or at least interfere.

[@justinspinnie2803]

I know this is 2 years old but I just wanted to yell through the phone lol.... lose the heat soo fast in those little ovens lol

[@ccmyharley]

@@justinspinnie2803 Stop picking your nose and get educated hahaha

[@justinspinnie2803]

@@ccmyharley can do

[@bestmichael1]

It’s always a good idea to out gas a part before coating a part it gets all oils out of the the metal then I would coat it with it being still warm not too warm maybe 150f that’s how you can get in the hard spots but then you can’t reset if you mess up great video though

[@clydemayo3291]

Don't forget to clean out the pizza drippings out your oven before you cook your parts

[@802Garage]

Bahahaha pro tip!

[@absolom7691]

Radiant heat from the oven's elements is going to be hotter than the ambient air which is what the oven measures. A black coated part is going to absorb a lot of that radiant energy which is why it got hotter than the setting for the oven. This why it's crucial to have an IR temp gun.

[@802Garage]

A good explanation! It can be tricky to get things just right for sure. I do need a nicer oven for at home as well.

[@absolom7691]

Even a junky oven is fine. Like you said in the video, always check the temp with the temp gun and adjust accordingly!

[@802Garage]

@@absolom7691 For sure! I mostly need bigger! Haha. Thanks for the comments. :)

[@lancemuuss9852]

Can you buy a maybe a 5 by 8 oven for bigger parts

[@802Garage]

Absolutely. No limit to part/oven size as long as it can maintain the required temperature.

[@alanliebenberg5443]

Great video . FYI You don't have to remove masking tape before baking.

[@802Garage]

For the typical masking tape I mostly worry about the adhesive melting and potentially bubbling some paint or just being a total PITA to get off. I'll have to try not bothering. At the factory we only used the legit high temp stuff, hah. Thanks a lot!

[@liveleaky7571]

Thanks for the video aaron

[@PowellMoore]

What about thread tape for the lid

[@802Garage]

Not a bad idea at all. Honestly some medical or even masking tape on the surface the jar top presses into would probably fix it even.

[@RadeFoxxy]

Is there any danger to playing it safe when baking an item to letting them stay in the oven for extra time?

[@802Garage]

Primarily discoloring the paint. Severe over baking though can cause the paint to be brittle and flake off more easily. Ideally it's better to go a little bit over rather than under as far as I know, but you don't want to go too far.

[@RadeFoxxy]

@@802Garage Thanks! I won't worry about 5-10 min too much then. I will get an IR thermometer to make it easier to time.

[@802Garage]

Yeah to ensure proper baking the part itself should reach the temperature specified on the paint and stay there for the time specified. Usually something like 400F for 15-20 minutes. Good luck!

[@hobohacker258]

I've been playing around a bit. But can I coat one side, full cure and cool it then do the other side?

[@802Garage]

I would not recommend that. The most you could pull off is coating one side, partially baking it just until the paint melts, then coating the other side and baking it. It's really not ideal though, you want to do the whole part at the same time.

[@audunjemtland8287]

Is it possible to spray paint cast iron?

[@802Garage]

Yes! The main issues are that cast iron is very porous so rust, moisture, and contaminates can get trapped. It can also take a long time to heat up. Best practice as far as I know is to remove any rust and descale, wash thoroughly, bake once and let cool, then bake again to preheat, apply the paint powder while it is still hot, put immediately back in and bake for the required time as soon as it is back to correct temperature. It might also be a good idea to let it cool slowly, so maybe turn off the oven and open the doors rather than immediately pulling it out. Can't confirm that last part, but it should help with outgassing and reducing contraction issues. Hope this helps.

[@audunjemtland8287]

@@802Garage That's amazing instructions. But I was thinking about regular spray paiint, will it stick? How can one paint cast iron with regular spray paint?

[@802Garage]

@@audunjemtland8287 Oooh! Yes spray paint will work fine on cast iron. Same basic steps apply although baking isn't necessary unless the cast iron will see high heat. If it will, use a high temperature paint and follow the baking instructions. Otherwise, make sure it is very clean and an epoxy primer followed by the desired top coat will probably work best.

[@audunjemtland8287]

@@802Garage Nice thanks. Only heat will be stovetop (teapot in cast iron) Standard sprays are probably not high heat perhaps but. I've always thought Car caliper colors (high heat) is a good bet. It's the easiest to find hah.

[@802Garage]

@@audunjemtland8287 Yes VHT makes an entire line of high heat paint and Rustoleum has options as well. They recommend spraying and then baking a few times at various temperatures. Follow the directions and they should work well on a tea pot!

[@ikedee649]

Good video with lots of information but I only have one question,......Ive watched several of these videos and I cant understand why so many of you set the item up and coat it in open space,. ??? Youre filling the place with powder colour and wasting it as well. If you build a bench top coating booth you dont release the powder into the workshop/garage and you can brush it up afterwards. Get a big plastic tub with a perspex lid, put some holes in the sides at different places so you can coat evently and you wont make such a mess.

[@802Garage]

I totally agree with you. Reclaiming powder is great. Truth is for the cost of the powder and the time it takes to setup the mini booth and reclaim the powder, it doesn't end up being worth it if you are just doing one or two parts. Plus you have to make sure you don't get any garbage in it and that it stays clean and dry. TBH especially for any part with complex shapes I would hate to be restricted by holes in a booth. It would make it very difficult to get coverage in certain areas. Again, great idea though and thanks for the comment! If I am doing large or multiple parts in the future I will probably set up powder gathering.

[@alchaffee2220]

How about LARGE items?

[@mcbridemotorsports5788]

Doesn't pre baking help the powder stick no matter what the material is? Ill make sure to use your link when I pick a kit up. As always, nice vid man.

[@802Garage]

Yeah it's not a bad idea for any material. Painting the part when it's already hot doesn't really provide much benefit though, it's more about being squeaky clean and free of oils. Thanks a lot!

[@mcbridemotorsports5788]

No Problem, cant wait to start doing this myself. I'm also looking into Hydro Dipping.

[@802Garage]

Hydro dipping is awesome too! Never really looked into it more than a few minutes yet.

[@russellkrout1776]

Is there anyway to contact you by phone and talk in person-- R. Krout

[@802Garage]

I suppose so. Shoot me an email. It's [e-mail]

[@charkswitlazers]

When your channel blows up, don’t forget about lil ol presidential me😭

[@802Garage]

Hahaha I won't forget the OGs! Thanks a lot. Was supposed to have a new Eclipse vid tonight, but it will be out mid tomorrow instead. :)

[@charkswitlazers]

802 Garage damn, now I can’t touch myself until tomorrow. Much love from Southern CA. I’ve been to New England before and loved it. Lucky you

[@802Garage]

Sorry! XD It's a "long one" and I think it came out pretty well, so hopefully you'll enjoy. You'll see an "in depth" look at some "input shafts" if you catch my drift. ;)

[@charkswitlazers]

802 Garage mmm yeah? Oh fuck yeah💦

[@802Garage]

Hahaha oooh jeeeeeez.

[@gundism]

so who's seen the new Scotty video where he jacks up a car then with no jack stands under it he tells people they can just cut a chunk out of their brake line and flange it up with some bolts. Lol

[@802Garage]

Wait, there is a new one where he does this? XD

[@naderzelli1960]

I wonder how it would look like those green leafy plants powder coated 🤔

[@802Garage]

I saw someone on TikTok named @stayspooled powder coat a cheeseburger and it was hilarous.

[@billjohnson7041]

I taped the button to the gun for 1 hand operation.

[@802Garage]

Nice! Been thinking of doing similar.

[@31acruz]

how come nobody tell us if we should get a single stage power coat gun or dual voltage stage? don't you guys realize its the first decision a newbie has to make? and what is the benefit of dual voltage over single voltage?

[@802Garage]

To be honest, I felt it was outside the scope of this video. The only reason NOT to get the dual voltage gun is budget. Expensive powder coating guns have infinitely variable voltage and current. The main reason for higher voltage is to apply paint more quickly or thicker and to lose less paint in the air. The main reason for low voltage is to get into tight spaces and avoid the Faraday cage effect. When you need to get into a very tivht corner, lower voltage and varying pressure can get paint where high voltage would cause a repelling effect. For most DIY purposes, the single voltage gun will do. For complex parts, the dual voltage will help.

[@31acruz]

@@802Garage Thank you, you are the only person who answered the question intelligently. My purpose is to coat small automotive parts, brackets, bolt heads, little cover etc to dress up my engine bay and other little areas etc. here and there engine or under body bits. Nothing to intricate so it sounds that the $89 Eastwood special would be enough for my "particular" use rather then their $167 dual offering.

[@802Garage]

@@31acruz Yeah, for general stuff like that and especially small objects, I don't think the dual voltage gun is necessary. If you do find spots that is hard to get paint to stick to, try holding the gun further away and turning up the pressure a tiny bit. Holding the tip of the gun close to the part is what can often create the magnetic field that causes issues. Good luck!

[@bluesmokegamer272]

just use masking tap to seal the gun to the paint jar

[@802Garage]

Yep good call. I hear electrical tape works too for real bad leaks.

[@Veyron640]

actually, there is videos out there, that prove. that IF the part is preheated.. YES> the powder will STICK with OUT the alagetor clip. So you can no not say, that it will JUST fall off.. No it wont.. NOW< that being, said.. the quality/the finish of the part, afcourse will show.. do to poor "grabbing" in tight areas.

[@802Garage]

You can get a thin coating to adhere, but it will not be as thick or as even as if you properly ground the part. Yes, most of the paint you spray will simply pass by the part or fall off.

[@artlabuae7303]

Thanks for no music

[@802Garage]

No problem. Any tutorials I tend to keep them distraction free. I even tried to clean up the noise in the audio, though I could only do so much. :)

[@MrSneakyGunz]

9:30 "Powder Coat is hard to get off."? I think I've heard from several internet sources that you literally just blow it off with the compressor. 🤷🤷‍♂️

[@802Garage]

After it is cured. We would check the thickness after curing.

[@MrSCOOBY26]

Fan oven would help.

[@802Garage]

Ideally you don't want too much air flow as it can knock the paint off the part, especially if it wasn't preheated. I think this metal being so thick just means it took a while to come up to temp.

[@MrSCOOBY26]

@@802Garage fan oven is ideal, won't knock the paint off.

[@802Garage]

@@MrSCOOBY26 K. It really doesn't make a big difference. 🤷‍♂️

[@moustachemike7128]

i know this is a better late then never: dump the paper filter and use a canister type ..the paper ones are junk..just me 2cents...

[@802Garage]

Oh you mean the breathing mask? Totally agree, this is just the bare minimum. I still need to pony up for the upgrade.

[@leetheriderforlife7548]

Cannot buy them Eastwood guns if you don’t live in the USA

[@802Garage]

Well that's annoying! What country are you in?

[@emiliolozada6688]

You forgot to put the glasses on

[@802Garage]

Hahaha did I? Oops.

[@emiliolozada6688]

802 Garage Safety first ☝️

[@802Garage]

@@emiliolozada6688 I try. :'( Everyone convinced me to put my angle grinder guard back on too!

[@emiliolozada6688]

802 Garage Hahaha it’s all good man. I actually happen to come across your video because I was trying to find out how I can get my drum hardware powder coated, and if it’s any worth it as it possibly might decrease the value of the chrome

[@802Garage]

@@emiliolozada6688 Drum hardware like for an actual musical drum? I instantly think if brake drums, hah. But yeah as long as it is metal it can be powder coated, though I don't know how well powder coat sticks to chrome. Typically you would powder coat bare metal, so likely you would want to sand blast the chrome first. I might suggest properly Plasti-Dipping everything first to see if you like it enough.

[@deanvigna7519]

Haha. Ultimate guide. Ok then pine cone.

[@802Garage]

😂 Pine cone is a new one. It's just search optimisation.

[@Fives-gm2bv]

why do you care about the finish on a clutch fork, your making a big deal out of something no one will ever see again once installed lol.

[@802Garage]

A few reasons. 1. You can see the tail end of it in the engine bay. 2. I don't want it to rust, partially because over time they weaken and crack. 3. I wanted to make a powder coating tutorial and it seemed like a good demo piece. 4. Powder coat all the things. :P Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@802Garage]

Also, my new slave cylinder came powder coated black, so now they match!

[@jovenlagda1229]

Your garage is a bit clutter compare to Scotty Kilmer.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha most people say mine is tidier! I'm still in the process of cleaning it out. :)

[@Steve-se7jq]

OH, Boy what a mess you have

[@802Garage]

Fortunately, this has changed dramatically! Check out my second to last video. :)

[@Mostviews111]

Says he was in an inspector but calls it paint....

[@802Garage]

www.harborfreight.com/16-oz-powder-coat-paint-matte-black-93306.html It's literally on the label bud. Considering I worked in the factory for a couple years I'm pretty sure I heard people call it paint a few thousand times. Don't be a jackass.