Homemade portable soldering iron | DIY lowcost

Best & Fast Prototype ($2 for 10 PCBs): www.jlcpcb.com
Thanks to JLCPCB for supporting this video.
I've been working for a while on this project. Now that it's done, I'm working on some improvements. But, anyway, you have all below ready to downlaod: the gerbers for the board, the components list and all the scheamtics. I hope you like it. Keep up. Total price around 15$ for each iron.
Help my projects on Patreon: / electronoobs
my Q&A page: electronoobs.co...
Canal en Español: / electronoobs en español
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LINKS
________________________________________________________
Tutorial website: www.electronoob...
PCB gerbers: www.electronoob...
Schematic: www.electronoob...
Part list: www.electronoob...
Code: www.electronoob...
LIBRARIES
Adafruit_GFX library: www.electronoob...
Adafruit_SSD1306 library: www.electronoob...
MAX6675 library: www.electronoob...
EXTRA
Thermocouple read schematic and code: www.electronoob...
OLED example schematic and code :www.electronoob...
COUPONS for you
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[@goosenp]

Try making a version which uses T12 tips, so it will basically be a TS100

[@TrentSterling]

I just got my TS100 in the mail and now I see this? Nice work!

[@mexykanu]

Great project ! Another suggestion of improvement: Make the case and project thinner, smaller, and make the case more ergonomic.

[@seanocansey2956]

I love the banana for size reference! 😜

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Want to help my workshop: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS Thank you so much!

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Always check the DC resistance of the heating elements on these hack-o irons. I've ordered 3 that were sent with incorrect elements. This form factor is used for 40w, 50w, and 60w stations, along with straight mains versions for 240v and 120v. The best ones for 24v are the 60w version (harder to find). The DC resistance of that element should be very close to 9.5 ohms (+/-~0.2). Just to go all ohms law on ya, 24v at 60w is 2.5A and 9.6 ohms. If the DC resistance is greater than 11 ohms you have a 50w element. If the resistance is around 14 ohms you have a 40w version. If the element measures in the hundreds of ohms you have a mains voltage version. Again, the best version will measure 9.6 ohms ;) -Jake

[@UpcycleElectronics]

BTW as far as T12 tips and the series thermocouple. That's actually an Atten design or at least you will find a whole lot of old Atten designs that used a 2 wire element when Hakko used 4.. Atten is the name of the company that makes a lot of the soldering stations that get rebranded for various stores and labels around the world. There are a few videos by KainkaLabs on KZbin where he completely reverse engineers the Atten design in detail and demonstrates exactly how the thermocouple works. His videos are long but it's well worth the time spent if you want to understand that design. The classic Atten units use a PIC16 and a LM358 to operate. I use the old Radio Shack "60w Digital Soldering Station," which is a rebranded Atten unit. It uses the Hakko 900 series handle and a 2 wire element. I took a bunch of pictures of the pcb from that unit and uploaded them on the eevblog forum a year or two back, but I've never done a retrace or schematic myself. -Jake

[@nvlong17]

I hope there will be more versions of this. This is so cool. Can't wait to make it!!

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

There will be a version 2.0 for sure!

[@nvlong17]

I am looking forward to seeing it

[@MCsCreations]

Wow, dude... Awesome project! Just brilliant! 😮

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks!

[@shehryarshaheen7115]

Absolutely incredible. Well done brother. Keep up the good work

[@wgm-en2gx]

instead of or in addition to the hall sensor, you should add a cheap accelerometer to detect when the iron is being moved to know when to sleep in cases where the iron isn't in a stand. Cool project however!

[@vonries]

wgm4321 I was thinking the same thing. The only reason I can think of for using a hal sensor is to make sure you put it in the stand. However I think the Accelerometer would be much safer. If you set it down on your mat, instead of your stand, it would be nice if it went to sleep.

[@Relations99]

It looks so uncomfortable to hold. Perhaps a rounded edge for version 2?

[@John_Smith__]

Good build but the problem is not the metal tips, it's the heater you use. I've made some diy Open Source models of soldering irons. I've used another mosfet driver and a bit of a different approach on the circuit, but yours is very good. Your problem is indeed the heating element. I've used those cheapo's and they simply are awful. On ebay you should use the hakko clones that cost around 2.5$ and they are the Real Ceramic heating elements. There are some videos online discussing the differences between those but the real hakko clones are the model: A1321 for the 50W heating element and A1322 for the 60W heating element. Make a search for those and choose the ones that have a real hakko case and manual ... they are around 2.5$ or even lower. They heat Way faster then the "stock T900" handle heating elements. They are far far better then the one I see on the video. Also the T900 iron tip does not make contact with the heating element. Wrapping for example a copper sheet around the heating element will improve a Lot the thermal transfer and hence will make a better iron ...do not give up on the T900 solder tips they make great great solder irons.

[@MrBobWareham]

Will you be doing a kit so I could make one for my bench and retire my Antex IRON

[@nielslarsen1094]

Excellent project from a point of electronic design, however on the mechanical side, my experience with the purchased cheap handles from China, is that the plastic is not withstanding the temperature from the heating element. Consequently after short time of usage, the iron which is pressed into the black plastic, loosens and you cannot fixate it back in a lasting manner. So in order to improve the version 2.0 you must rethink the iron holder and the temperature issues, because the heat transfers to the rest of the handle. Maybe a 3 d printed ceramic holder instead of the cheap Chinese plastic. I have searched for high temperature glue to solve the above mentioned problems with my soldering iron, but not been able to find one. So I am continuing buying new handles. I look forward to learning your experiences. Thank you for a very interesting tutorial.

[@masaratech]

niels larsen maybe a gazgit paste can do the work ..

[@manusholm3536]

I used a promicro and the max breakout bord. Lcd is bigger but some how still knows wat to do.

[@DerekMatthews]

WOW what a project.. Love your work, keep it up.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks!

[@pankajroy5124]

*EXCELLENT VIDEO. I WAS LITERALLY WAITING FOR THIS KIND OF VIDEO. THANKS A LOT.*

[@MylesC1234]

Homemade Ts100. Very nice work.

[@ufohunter3688]

Very thought out and practical. Well done. You have come a long way my young grasshopper :)

[@rahj1365]

First saw your videos on Instagram and I have subscribed to your KZbin channel. Amazing videos sir! This Chanel is best I have come across!! 🇯🇲 keep up the good work

[@alejandronan607]

You're killing it man! Awesome project!!!

[@PhG1961]

Excellent video/project. Looking forward to see V.1.1 ! Great ingenuity ! And of course, the banana is present...

[@lycanlycans7548]

Instead of this ceramic soldering iron you can use a hakko T12 soldering iron to buy on eBay and Amazon works fine! And you can use the T12 tips from hakko ! thanks for your video and all information! Best regards,

[@otakuweaboon9217]

This has been the best video I ever seen on this day , pretty exelente job

[@Basement-Science]

For the next version you should look into making it work better on 12V: Basically adjust the Mosfet´s PWM based on input voltage. You may also need a better mosfet in that case, not sure. But as long as the heater is not constantly on, there is room for it to heat faster.

[@electronic7979]

Wow Excellent

[@marcus_w0]

Oh damn you guy. Great video, again. We really should talk someday, It's frightening how your and my ideas match... this is the third project in a row you're catching up with a video of something i'm working on right now. first your current clamp, than the drone, now the soldering iron. :) Keep up with your great work. Thumbs up.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thank you very much!

[@marcus_w0]

You could really add some decoupling caps to the various components, and also increase the output capacitance to maybe 10-50µF.

[@chetan_sarvaiya]

You are mind blowing.. just try with T12....

[@ArduinoHocam]

Excellent work .

[@Pageportal455]

Most awaited project! You rock dude!!❤

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks!

[@MadHatter123456]

Should have used an LM7805 instead of the giant buck-converter... Even the LM7805 would have been overkill for the small current needed.

[@md.mostafakhan4529]

Really Awesome project. Please make revision with smaller PCB layout and overall smaller size.

[@ThePzr]

Your the great man in the world.super..!

[@HassanETECH]

Well done. Another awesome project as usual👍🏻

[@krishnawa_]

Great job bro

[@fhyslyrics9715]

I used to listen Great Scott voice, this is my first time in this channel and I feel a bit strange feeling about the voice color, but I still subscribed tho. Keep up the good work.

[@HSRMF]

i saw many circuit used Atmega328 and they just flipped it 45° .. it will help allot to connect the components together early..

[@bonin3660]

Maaaan, you're really good. I'm SHARING RIGHT NOW!

[@vanshdhir6168]

Nice iron bro

[@lycanlycans7548]

Why you didn't use hakko tips or ts100 tips they are much better and very fast heating! Thank you for your video ! Regards,

[@isoguy.]

Awsome, will build this projecct as soon as components arrive. How did you calbrate the temperature? Thanks for sharing.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks! Well, just by testing different PID values anda djusting the fine parts of the code!

[@engineeringtechniques6179]

Perfect every links in discription

[@1000chutku]

Please make one video on closed loop speed control of bldc motor

[@mesquitamk1681]

esse ferro tem a funçao de hibernar dormir automaticamente ?

[@Mr.Leeroy]

Forget these tips. Use T12 series. Aslo, why bother with 3d printing and electronics in the handle if you still have the wire and are not able to make it pretty? Just use cheap (or not, because there are aluminium an stainless steel versions as well) FX9501 handles and leave electronics on the other end of the wire. That way end result would be much more aesteticly pleasing and you won't be limited in size. You could use ac-dc 24v SMPS or dc-dc boost converter for battery powered use cases.

[@theblackdaniels.official]

Great project, although I had a small chuckle on the fact you'll need a soldering iron to build a soldering iron ;)

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Yes, but that iron was for a soldering station. Mine is portable...

[@areg7182]

Why not use a linear regulator? I don't efficiency is the problem, and since the current draws for the OLED screen and microcontroller are very small, I don't think it would heat up a lot. Can you explain why you used a buck converter?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

From 24 to 5V an LDO???

[@bertvanrossem9547]

Electronoobs How about the lp2950/2951? That would save tons of space. And why should it be an ldo? It's not like the drop out voltage would be a problem when powering it from 24v.

[@areg7182]

Well maybe not an LDO, just a normal, plain old 5v regulator? why not?

[@MadHatter123456]

Electronoobs LM7805.

[@LostDeadSoul]

LM2576 up to 40V or /HV up to 60V. 5 parts for a working 3Amp buck regulator :)

[@ScienceLab760]

Congratulations very nice work, thanks for share your projects, this tool is useful for control the power and not damage IC

[@rajagupta677]

Great project. Love to build one thanks..

[@crypticnet3415]

this is great, video quality can be seen👌😎

[@andreasyufrizal73]

Very nice project

[@Marty2011uk]

How about adding a fingerprint scanner so that only you can use it?

[@MDFRESCUER]

Good job.

[@sayantanmaiti2513]

Congo bro... This design is an unique one.. Really enjoyed this.. A very nice clean iron

[@bonafide9085]

Nice project! Thanks for sharing!

[@kal9001]

Use run at 16Mhz? You could save using the xtal by using the 8Mhz internal clock. There's no need to be THAT attached to the Arduino IDE :-/

[@Basement-Science]

Yeah, I don´t think the crystal is necessary. The internal oscillator should be fast and precise enough. This would save on 3 components and some board space.

[@masaratech]

or he just use an ATtiny 😊

[@pramodwick]

ATtiny's flash memory is not enough for the project I think. Adafruit libraries are huge

[@masaratech]

Pramod Wickramasinghe there is turn around for sure..

[@masaratech]

Pramod Wickramasinghe if someone can put USB connectivity on attiny10 , sure they can run an I2C oled screen with some input and output.

[@KeesHessels]

i love your project, but if you can buy a 5 dollar solder iron tip, why not buy the new style (with heating element and sensor in the tip like the T-12\jbc), its about the same price right ?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Next version is with the T12, stay tuned!

[@DIY_tipis]

Pls install oled display for cheap soldering iron with adjustable🙏

[@column.01]

Can't help but feel a rounded case wouldn't have been too difficult to make for this

[@narinoguerra7656]

Awesome Bro... Really Great Project!!!

[@hemantmundhe6662]

great project to make on the this month.thanks

[@SanjayChakrapani]

Nice project, I'm was building a same kind of project but not portable.i used lm358 for temperature sensing

[@SanjayChakrapani]

How much current are you supplying,I gave 2A

[@cyberspider78910]

very neat...

[@gregsmith2262]

Amazing skills excellent job and well èxplained. Thanks for taking the time to share! 👍

[@mesquitamk1681]

does this iron have the function of hibernating to sleep automatically?

[@midianalbertokhaiyow8195]

excelente, excelente, excelente, excelente..... gracias, este proyecto es un nivel...

[@mahmoudfl5097]

Really great work .... thank you very much

[@VolkansSpace]

What do u think about your pid controller ? As I see , you set the tempature but the pid controller isn't work properly.

[@brandonbrand2338]

Great work, well done! :)

[@johngutierrez7329]

I am an avid fan of your inventions but was wondering if you can build an ultrasonic 3d scanner which almost looks like your portable soldering iron. Ultrasonic transducers are also used as ultrasound devices but was hoping to be a miniature or portable type for use in scanning peoples teeth or mouth --- do you think this is possible?

[@user-rd2gq6vt9e]

Good day, I collected a portable soldering iron according to your scheme with your firmware version 1, and faced a problem, the hall sensor does not work and the temperature does not want to show correctly, when the flash began to show -5 on the thermocouple does not react, please tell me why?

[@TheJosemartel]

Ponlo a la venta. Parece muy bueno. enhorabuena.

[@mesquitamk1681]

it was cool But it would be great if it had The mini USB port so you could change the soft when you wanted to and even install a game like the S10 commercial soldering iron I think this is the one with games

[@a6dulsalam511]

Good job bro can you make smart robot use module Voice recognition v3 and lcd 12864 for face and tank for move please make it 😚

[@vonries]

Have you seen the TS80 portable iron from the same makes as the TS100?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Yes. it is nice! Not yet on the market...

[@ElectroIoT]

Wow wow wow this time great project many thanks friend

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks!

[@fistfull95]

Is it possible to edit the EasyEDA files directly? I would like to change the barrel-connector to an XT30/60 connector, but I have no experience in making PCBs from scratch.

[@josuevillasante2546]

great work man

[@kedarprabhudessai]

Cool bro one of the best project u build. This u can even sell with you brand name ☺️ cool.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Threre are still parts to be improved!

[@user-ng6si2uj4k]

So you need a soldering iron to make a soldering iron???? Great video

[@mr.mythoclast4451]

its the same as you need a scissor to open the package for a new scissor

[@cashel1111]

you can use a tethered one to make this one for when your tethered one doesnt reach... :D

[@NiHaoMike64]

Sparkfun was the first to do that...

[@republicoftutorials6068]

Great project bro brilliant

[@Bob3519]

Great project great video.

[@mabror1]

Hi! is it possible to use this attached code for your previous PID prototype with Arduino UNO hardware? there you have used a rotary encoder. I like this one with only 2 buttons simple and easy to use.

[@jte8193]

How do u defined portable while a cable still attach on it

[@sarreqteryx]

I realize I'm being bothersome here, but the TS100 and TS80 are open source designs. why not improve on one of them instead of completely starting from scratch? I could easily see a TS80 able to use 100W USB-C PD.

[@ryancl03]

the fet is getting really hot and causing the chip to reset constantly.. not quite sure what it could be... bad fet?

[@serjaocvt9726]

VERY NICE.....!!!!

[@manusholm3536]

sorry if nthis is the wrong place to ask. i saw in one of your other vidios a pcb for this build with a t12 tip on it. im very intrested in that build. mostly the code. have you built that ?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Not yet. Project still in progress...

[@jainilshah4964]

What's the overall power rating of the iron

[@konainhaider2397]

Great project...

[@MrSupervin94]

Can be used a smaller microcontroller? Isn't an AtMega328 wasted doing so few tasks?

[@manusholm3536]

i built your design out on a breadbord. i notice a overshoot in temprature of more than 20c is there somwere one can tune it bit tighter?

[@DouglasKryder]

interesting project and well done but your claim of a iron for ~$15 is, based on your part list linked parts prices, it seems ~$35 too low when all parts and rough filament cost are included. still, if completed and it works not a bad price. but i wonder just how portable it is when it needs a 24v power source. but i think that of all the "portable" irons on the market. i can see a use if out in the field and using a couple car batteries though unless one has an inverter to pwer a standard 120v AC iron. another thing you did not mention is how easy it is to use with the heavy power cable and weight distribution. overall though it was a great project and well done. thanks.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks! With a 6S lipo battery you're good to go. Also, the price is around 15$ but the list I give is for packs of components of 10 or 20 or even 100. Of courese, if you buy 100 resistors, you will use the rest at other projects. Pretty difficult to give the price for each spare component. Thanks and havea nice day!

[@DouglasKryder]

well, i guess it depends on how you do accounting/cost analysis in your shop. for any packet of parts the total cost is part of your parts inventory. you can assign that cost to the project or general inventory but the total cost is still part of your expenses and is only reduced when a component is used. some of the components may be on the shelf a year from now and when doing inventory i'd ask, "why do i have these?" answer, the soldering iron. so actually over a year those parts sitting on the shelf are part of the iron cost. at least, the way i do parts. ymmv.

[@WaltonPete]

Douglas Kryder If you don't have a stock of commonly used parts then you must spend much more on every project.

[@officializm4171]

You are not like Great Scott. You explain everything. Greater Man.👌😄

[@shahzaibshamim6524]

Hey Electronoobs! Would you make an alarm clock using discrete logic ICs?

[@ariefwt2220]

so usefull nice 👍

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks!

[@norbertsos4894]

Great video!

[@ccleorina]

Awesome project! but i do wonder those 21 dislike... maybe they not understand Electronic...

[@abhisheksingh-hm1gk]

Can u provide me circuit diagram for a smart band having heart rate sensor and node mcu to upload the data recorded by sensor to server ?

[@nickst2797]

What did you use to solder the chip? Solder flux? Solder paste?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Solder paste