Homemade Tig Cooler : Test Pt. 2

It seems to be working, but it's got some room for improvement

[@haroldwatkins7059]

I do like your progress and the thought you have put into it.

[@m2s222]

You might try reversing the inlet and outlet on your cooler, looks like you are getting a waterfall through the cooler. its on the return side but at least it will cool better if nothing else.

[@fredsmachinewerks4811]

It looks like precon pump. Some of them have a built in pressure regulator . Try messing around with that. And reverse the hose on the rad. flow should start at the bottom so you don't get air locked. Nice job on the set up. Cheers Fred

[@titomartinez5783]

Seems like the water level in the reservoir is very low. That pump is pretty strong and its most likely syphoning air. I would try a simple solution of filling out the tank to the top and letting the pump syphon the air out of the hose for a couple of minutes and see how it works then.

[@sloppydoggy9257]

Looks like a good machine. I guess the main thing when you build your own is its hard to be small & also have a large radiator.

[@bjPops]

Hi I have some years ago built the same cooler based on the same type pump. The fitting should have an inner brass sleeve that prevent deforming and prevent leakage. As long as you have air in the system, you will get pulsing and noise. Make fittings leak free, bleed the circuit (by running it), and you should see an improvement. All in all it is an overkill for Tig use, but lots of fun. The pump is a wane pump and should have a relief valve so you can set max. pressure.

[@ke6bnl]

my airco is just a pump like yours and water tank but the tank is about 7 gallons simple and works. no fan no radiator. Does empty into a clear cup to check the flow. the second one I have had like that my old miller tig had that. also had the built in one on my syncrowave 250 smaller tank and radiator. will depend on available space. less to go wrong for me.

[@Birdkillersteve]

put a small valve on there so you can throttle the discharge (tank influent) to put some more back pressure on it that should stop your waterfall in the effluent side once the flow catches up. and use stainless steel compression fittings.

[@jaslms07]

Where did you find the fitting that the TIG torch water in and out thread into on your front gauge panel?

[@garypapesh1345]

Go on eBay and look up brw_technologies. They have them for about 7 bucks

[@jarrodjohnson1410]

you might try slowing the pump speed down with a plug in speed controller nice vid

[@jvmiller1995]

You can crank on those fittings real hard. They take a lot of force without breaking. Of course they are not any good the way they are so go for it. Also when you install one the little flare should be just past the end of your tubing. If that makes sense. Some people put it all together and push the tubing in all the way until it bottoms out. It has to have room to be able to tighten you push in to deep it cant stuck down in the fitting. Undo them look at the flare if it's not almost even with the tub trim it back. Hope this helps if pipe is clean they should seal. If not get sweet joints. I just don't like that cheap line

[@haroldwatkins7059]

your pulsating is most likely coming from your pump if it is a piston type. A vein pump will eliminate that problem as well as the pulsating in water flow.

[@EFLO3D]

Harold Watkins vane pump

[@Mad.Man.Marine]

It was catching air through the pump. You can see it in the hose

[@Fortitudoo]

great build what improvments can even b made ? what radiator did u use for that ?

[@tobinator680]

Looks like one of those computer water cooling radiator, a 120mm one.

[@EC20121]

Great info. Hey do you have part #3 where everything is working as expected. Thanks. Send me the link. 👍

[@metalisawesome2811]

It's on my channel

[@MarkYobb]

I believe that it is the orientation of the pump suction line is likely the issue. There is a cavity of air in the top of the suction line just before the pump inlet. The inlet should be reoriented so that any none condensables or air will float up through the pump. Basically you pump is not fully priming. Other wise it looks nice. Why such a heavy base? Regards.

[@notajp]

Compression fittings can be a real PITA. I prefer flare fittings for copper. They're easy to do and seal well. If you switch to hose from the pump and mount it on rubber bushings, it should quiet it down considerably. Otherwise, very nice design.

[@user-vv8on5vw1y]

Please tell me more about 5.8"LH connection. If you can please attach links for example. I have problem, i not can find this connection (or same parts) on welding shop/dealer.

[@metalisawesome2811]

You will need one of each I believe. The dash marks in the wrench flats indicates LH Thread, so check your hose set up and make sure. I have seen some that have both being LH thread and some use one LH and RH thread fittings for the torches. Hope this helps. www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-18-LH-Female-Tig-Welding-Water-Fitting-WP-20-WP-18-WP-24-welder-B-size-/171938071648?hash=item28084ec460:m:m3czSyl8ikKMCLFPT4D6qOA www.ebay.com/itm/201394280837?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[@garypapesh1345]

Go to eBay. I bought mine from brw_technologies for about 7 bucks

[@TheRitchieLeeShow]

nice Job!!!

[@metalisawesome2811]

Thanks Richard.

[@rolobotoman]

anybody knows what what fittings match to the torch hoses?

[@metalisawesome2811]

You will need one of each I believe. The dash marks in the wrench flats indicates LH Thread, so check your hose set up and make sure. I have seen some that have both being LH thread and some use one LH and RH thread fittings for the torches. Hope this helps. www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-18-LH-Female-Tig-Welding-Water-Fitting-WP-20-WP-18-WP-24-welder-B-size-/171938071648?hash=item28084ec460:m:m3czSyl8ikKMCLFPT4D6qOA www.ebay.com/itm/201394280837?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[@Ataraxia_Atom]

Using copper hoses and and aluminum tank is going cause issues due to galvanic corrosion.

[@aferreira2898]

had a question for you. I'm actually building my own cooler at the moment and hitting a wall. where did you source the actual connectors that are stationary on the cooler that the water in and out connect to. i can't find them anywhere.

[@metalisawesome2811]

The ones that are welded to the tank? Those are just 1/8 NPT couplings, stainless. I got mine from work, but I just found some on ebay for a few bucks a piece.

[@garypapesh1345]

Go to eBay and look up a company called” brw_technologies” . I got my bulkhead (at least that’s what I call them) fittings for $ 6 bucks and some change.

[@BurtKwouk77]

Has anyone tried the pump from a refrigerator?

[@jvmiller1995]

Did not know they had pumps. Compressor but no water pump

[@MrDtproject]

perfect👍

[@JosephMassimino]

It appears that the biggest challenge people have is in getting the correct pump to avoid using something that pumps to hard, much harder than needed. What I want to know, is why you need Tig Torch coolant, why would not automotive antifreeze work the same? It can keep a car cool, so why not a torch?

[@metalisawesome2811]

I did get this cooler all sorted out. Check out my other videos on it. I installed a different spring inside of the pump that brought the pressure down to around 50psi.

[@okcsmith]

Which video addresses spring issue and pressure-I have same issue with pulsation on old carbonation unit. SS

[@metalisawesome2811]

I did not make a video on that part of it. Unfortunately, I cant remember where i purchased the spring from.

[@intel2you]

the pulse is from a leak its sucking air on the inlet side and its called cavation and it will damage the pump in no time.. these pumps pump 250psi stock. if you take off the cap that looks like a nut you should find a ajustment screw behide it watch your gauge well backing the screw out with it running to lower the pressure but if its a super old pump you may need a spring change but a search on the net will tell ya what spring to get

[@metalisawesome2811]

Yep, I finally got all the kinks worked out and it runs great. Thanks.

[@HillbillyRednecking]

Are you getting cavitation from the pump spinning too fast?? putting air in your line it's making your lines jump?? that would be very annoying

[@HillbillyRednecking]

Impeller cavitation… Pump is spinning too fast!!!!

[@HillbillyRednecking]

For the compression fittings, tighten and loosen a few time to help create a seat, then make them stupid tight, until you almost put marks in the nut

[@metalisawesome2811]

No, the system was pulling air from one of the fittings, after I changed out to different fittings, It has worked perfectly. Thanks.

[@FlashTechEngineering]

Your pump volume is too high for your set up, you could install into your system which needs a flow control valve with a pressure relief that bypasses and returns to your holding supply tanks

[@metalisawesome2811]

The pump is adjustable in pressure. All I had to do was order a different spring for inside the pump and presto.

[@Birdkillersteve]

Way over thought

[@apacheone3643]

Compression fittings are the worst when hard plumb on a pump as far as noise that pump is loud.

[@aguilayserpiente]

Cavitation.

[@JB-bf5lv]

You are getting cavitation at the pump inlet. It will wear the pump out quickly. You are pulling in air at the leaks in the compression fittings and the 90 degree fitting at the pump inlet can cause it too. If it does it after you change the brass fittings then turn the pump 90 degrees so you can have a straight fittings going into the pump. Here is a link for some good fittings for poly tubing that are cheap and don't leak, from McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/124/195/=1earwna

[@byronmill]

You are confusing air entrainment with cavitation. They are two completely separate conditions. His problem is air entrainment due to leaking fittings between the tank and the suction side of the pump.

[@guypritchett9541]

Convert pressure to flare ftg.

[@petrupetru1112]

if some want to repeat add to construction **Water Hammer Arrestor**

[@metalisawesome2811]

I dont think thats needed, if you look at the other videos after this, that issue is gone, it seems that it was pulling in air from one of the fittings.

[@byronmill]

@@metalisawesome2811 exactly what your problem was. You pointed out that both fittings on the suction side of the pump were leaking water. If water can leak out, then air can leak in when the pump is running. That is where you were getting your air entrainment from and why it went away when you changed the fittings. People were commenting about cavitation, but that is a different condition that they were confusing with air entrainement.

[@haylspa]

I think you are holding onto using some components you really should not be! for example your pump and motor! you could buy a newer pump you can hold in your hand that would push twice the amount as that old motor you are currently using in-fact you should also upgrade that radiator to that's not enough how ever they do sell ones on ebay that takes 3 120mm fans one or two of these would solve any cooling efficiency issues love the tank set up but honestly might want to restart most of the other stuff honestly think you can do much better if you through one bill at it ($100) even get it a little more hightech then current tig coolers on the market such as being able to control multiple fans speed pump speed timer even a temp thermostat and regulator honestly you should be looking into PC water cooling components you would be able to make a very awesome tig cooler going that rout and definitely way quieter

[@metalisawesome2811]

These pumps are same thing that you'll find in a Miller Dynasty. This cooler is way over built for what i need, just the way I wanted. Let me know how your tig cooler turns, I'm sure it'll be swell.

[@haylspa]

@@metalisawesome2811 I don't doubt it can push the pump and it is working, just less efficient and can be pushing better cooling I'm just saying you could do better

[@metalisawesome2811]

@@haylspa Make sure to post a video when yours is done, i'm sure we could all learn from you.

[@haylspa]

@@metalisawesome2811 yeah yeah if I actually record it or better yet actually post it after recording, chiller was designed for chemistry have all the parts but do need to put it together

[@19voodoo69]

Flare the ends