$40 tig water cooler pump upgrade

In this video I get the new pump for the tig cooler it cost 1/5 the price of the original and in this application it works 5 times better. I have not made the mount for the pump on the unit but I have the water cooler working again so now I can start getting tiggy with it... you know I will.
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[@cgis123]

My belly looks huge in that footage........ LOL

[@juscozcustoms]

I'll try to get a more flattering angle next time :)

[@1012Mrjesse]

I have a suggestion for you if you’re still testing this thing out. I think you should swap your output and input hoses on the radiator, as gravity would do some of the work for you by pulling the water from the lower radiator bung back into the tank, rather than needing to push against the forces of gravity to the top for the tank return hose.

[@juscozcustoms]

thanks for the suggestion I did spend time working out how I was going to set this up and doing the way you have suggested would mean that the radiator will always have an amount of air in it that means that it would not be very efficient at cooling that is why I fill it from the bottom so that it pushes all the air out the top and cooling works better.

[@jonpacheco5711]

Hey bud. Looking at pumps for my old miller Coolmate 1. How long did the fuel pump late with coolant? And if not what pump did you switch too

[@juscozcustoms]

The pump didn't last long. Might have been better with straight coolant (not watered down) Or not buying the cheapest pump on ebay. I ended up re working the original piping with flanged ends and went back to the Davies Craig pump. There was a comment here about a water transfer pump that looked like it was worth trying but I haven't tryed that yet

[@babaganoosh555]

As I'm watching this two years after it was made, it's probably been mentioned, but how long did the fuel pump last? I'm not surprised it works well, but I'm a bit sceptical as to it's longevity... By the way, I've sold so many of those pumps i could tell you about 4 different bosch part numbers they used for them 😜

[@juscozcustoms]

A few months 😄 it probably would have lasted longer if I used straight coolant/antifreeze instead of diluted with water. Because the pump rusted internally and died.

[@Peter-V_00]

A simple bypass valve would have solved your pressure/volume issue.

[@juscozcustoms]

I think that I fixed the issue simply by welding a bead around the ends of all the hard lines so that the pipes and hose clamps can't come off. But a pressure relief valve is a good idea. just feed the excess back into the top of the tank. I'll keep that in mind if it explodes again and needs another rebuild

[@davidfrank2824]

Can you tell me in this video are you using some sort of coolant or is it green water that you colored so you could watch the flow? If you are using coolant can you tell me what you're using? I use the orange RV coolant that you winterize your camper with to stop the lines from freezing. It also isn't very toxic either since it must be used in your drinking water and other water lines in your RV or boat. They both use the same coolant and since I have a boat and an RV I always have it around. I just don't know if it would stand up to high temperatures such as a cooling torch would reach. Also that was a brilliant idea on using the fuel pump. I realize I know too much about cars that I recognize what you had on your table before you said it lol.

[@juscozcustoms]

Yes it is coolant it was watered down to 50% and that may have been why this pump died a month after this video (it rusted internally) maybe if I used a straight glycol without watering it down it may have lasted better. The orange stuff sounds interesting I dont recall ever seeing it here but winterizing is not really a thing in most of Australia. You can never know to much about cars or most subjects for that matter.

[@davidfrank2824]

@@juscozcustoms I really did laugh out loud when you talked about your country and not needing to worry about winterizing. I didn't even think of that. when you first started hooking that fuel pump up I thought about if it would get ruined from coolant or water. I think what you are suggesting would probably work a lot better. I hope you update a video when you figure out what to use. I still have at least two months if not three before I go back over to my garage and work. The only heat I have are space heaters over there and this winter has been a pretty bad one. Lucky enough the projects that I have are for summer. I enjoyed watching the video and I made sure to subscribe.

[@juscozcustoms]

At least we are past the middle of the season now it will start to change temperature soon enough. Maybe a wood heater for the workshop is a summer project you need to look into.

[@jameswalker8338]

Great video and entertaining. Go shop Corgi’s! Rather envious on the MIller TIG. My budget currently has me on an NZ suppliers branded Chinese import. Maybe one day I’ll manage a Red, Blue or Yellow beastie. Anyway, a couple of questions if I may. 1. On the fuel pump what sort of pressure/flow rate did you hunt for? The ebay link seems to be just a search so not sure what you actually got. 2. Power supply wise what did you get? From the glimpse in a previous video it looked suspiciously like a hefty LED DC supply? Circa 180 to 200W? Cheers.

[@juscozcustoms]

sorry i did not respond to this question when you asked it as i was not notified about it. 1> the fuel pump was no particular flow rate or pressure rating it was just one to run an efi engine so it would be quieter than the tac tac pumps that are more common. i just made sure that it had a barbed fitting on each end that i would be able to attach a hose to with a hose clamp 2> you are totally correct about the power supply i went for a 220w because it was rated at 12volts at 10amps and it was also labeled as being waterproof for outdoor use so i thought it would be good for a water pumping system just incase there was a leak i hope this helps with your question and is not to late to be helpful

[@jameswalker8338]

juscozcustoms - thanks. :-) Yes still helpful. I’m just building up the BoM at the moment. Cheers.

[@juscozcustoms]

Good to hear that your having a go at the project. I would love to see how you go so please share some pics to the juscoz Facebook page when your done. Just make sure that the power supply is producing enough amps for your pump and fan otherwise it will probably overheat and you will have a very bad day

[@WireWeHere]

A little late but putting a fuel pump in the coolant offers advantages in longevity and makes it a lot less noisy too.

[@juscozcustoms]

Using the cheapest chinese fuel pump available is not good for longevity either apparently. It has not lasted well at all and I think it will either get a better quality EFI fuel pump (and maybe fit it inside the tank) or go back to the original davies craig pump or possibly get an old faithful tac tac pump and incase it in a sound proof box because it is to noisey for filming with.

[@WireWeHere]

@@juscozcustoms I heard the same pump complaint earlier today and is why i was looking around. I'm using a 12VDC diaphragm pump and it's fine but boring. What I'm really interested in is using air pressure, an accumulator (a pressure vessel with a separation membrane but a simple pressure vessel works too) and check valves to move the water volume. It's easy and I've used it several times for moving liquids where high explosives are near crazy people.

[@WireWeHere]

@@juscozcustoms Splitting the flow from your original pump into a separate radiator loop to make use of the excess volume might be an option. There fun in finding ways to do what you really want with what you happen to have. Eg: build a water fountain to make use of your pump and tap off of it for your tig.

[@juscozcustoms]

@@WireWeHere problem solving is something that I enjoy. If you have not seen my cubman build videos, then the fuel system video might intrest you. It uses a similar setup where the pump pushes full pressure all the way to the carburetor but just before it gets there it has a "T" that comes out at approximately 160° from the direction of flow. This means that the fuel will flow straight past the "T" but when there is to much fuel pressure for the carburetor the excess will divert through the "T" and back to the tank. Unfortunately I don't think that system will work on the tig cooler because the tig lead causes to much restriction but I could be wrong

[@WireWeHere]

@@juscozcustoms You built yourself a modern injection bypass system for a carb. Helps with vapor lock and fuel temperature unless you're running on empty. Thanks for the tip, I will be sure to have a good look. Peace.

[@kristapsliepnieks9949]

Hi! Been thinking about making a diy cooler and pump is probably the hardest thing to figure out, so I'm glad I found this video. Do you use it often? I saw some info on a forum that someone tried using automotive fuel pumps which failed for him quite often. Wondering how is yours holding up? I suspect there might be some internals not meant for antifreeze additives or similar.

[@juscozcustoms]

I have also had issues with the pumps not being happy to pump the coolant but it appeared to be the water content of the coolant that was the issue because when I opened the pump it was rusted inside now the only way to work around this is to find a 100% glycol coolant and run it straight without diluting it so there is no water to rust it out or use a diaphragm pump and put up with the extra noise they produce. I'm sure there is some other pumps that might work and if you find one be sure to share your findings maybe its an over engineered windscreen washer pump from an old Volvo or something crazy like that. if you do get around to building your own cooler i would love to see some pics of the setup you can share them to the Juscoz Customs facebook page

[@kristapsliepnieks9949]

@@juscozcustoms From the few hour googling I've done so far, there really seem to be two main issues with the pumps - corrosion and some plastics which do not like glycol. I have been suggested some hot water pumps from ebay, which have the internal components made from brass or copper, which to my knowledge is pretty resistant to both of the above. Other interesting suggestion someone gave was to try central heating pumps - those are made to withstand water and the added antifreeze. Win win. My only concern with those is the absolute 1 inch minimum size for the fittings, meaning you would have to get some custom fittings and the 120 or 220 v these usually require. That is why I am so interested in automotive fuel pump because my whole cooler will have 12 v anyways for some other electronics.

[@kristapsliepnieks9949]

Will continue to look out for a suitable option and will try to remember, to come back to you about that. Come to think of it , cars also have a pump for just that - circulating the antifreeze. Will have to look into that.

[@juscozcustoms]

well I was originally using an automotive pump directly from Davies craig and it worked great but the problem was I had to go from the 20mm output of the pump down to a 6mm line in the welding lead well the pump was a bit to powerful and there was to much restriction and it blew the hoses apart and the fact that the pump was designed to flow 35 liters per minute the entire contents of my reservoir where all over the floor walls and a bit on the roof in a matter of seconds and that is why I started with the fuel pumps but I think I will have another go with the Davies craig pump but possibly with a speed control so I can slow the flow down if Davies craig say the pump will be ok with that.

[@kristapsliepnieks9949]

@@juscozcustoms Forums seem to agree on one pump being absolute winner for this application - Procon pump. They seem to deliver high flowrate when restricted by the torch veins and hold up against the chemicals in antifreeze. serve a long time and are reliable. But the cost is somewhat high and in addition you also need a motor. This is a bit over my budget but If I have to risk the torch, maybe this cost is justifiable

[@michaelwalker1644]

so would a 50/50 coolant mix be a bad idea water causing corrosion at the commutator and brushes? or would it be ok ?

[@juscozcustoms]

Thats a good question. Ideally you will be mixing the coolant with distilled water or whatever the coolant bottle reccomends. Now the bigger problem with water is if you get electrolysis inside the tig lead from impurities in the water (if you use tap water) Eventually it will eat through the copper cable inside the lead then you need a new lead. As for the pump it depends on how the pump is constructed if it will be a problem so i cant be certain if it will affect your pump. If you have the davies craig pump that i originally used it will be fine

[@michaelwalker1644]

@@juscozcustoms the reason I ask is because I'm using a 70/30 mix with distilled water and a efi fuel pump like the one you went to and it's no longer working so I'm just wondering maybe 100 percent coolant is a better idea but I'm not sure like you said what the inside of the pump is like... but the kicker is that I went the 20 dollar route maybe I'll be looking into a used carbonator just using the motor and pump from it I REALLY liked the fuel pump idea though !

[@juscozcustoms]

My cheep fuel pump stopped also so im considering the options. I have since heard that the cheep ones often stop even when flowing petrol and can often be fixed by blowing through them backwards (not sure if they mean with compressed air or fluid) but it can clear up whatever is blocking the pump and they keep going after that... apparently I think the tac tac pump would work fine but it makes it hard to film

[@michaelwalker1644]

I just ordered a used carbonator pump with motor for $70 us ... should be here soon . that type is exactly what comes on comercial water recirculators like the weld tec .. so we'll see how that goes in the meantime the original seller is sending another pump I'll try the blowing backwards also

[@juscozcustoms]

@@michaelwalker1644 sounds good send some pictures of your cooler to me via the juscoz Facebook page i would love to see it

[@michaelwalker1644]

what are you using for coolant ?

[@juscozcustoms]

Automotive coolant.

[@michaelwalker1644]

@@juscozcustoms thanks I'm building a recirculation system for my tig machine with some stainless that I had laying around and saw something about glycol based coolant reacting with some types of plastics .... curious how the new fuel injection pump worked out for you as well

[@Grinchfeast]

So your saying that this cheap pump didn't last that long?

[@juscozcustoms]

No it did not, I pulled it apart and found it had rusted internally. It might last a bit better if I ran the coolant unmixed so it is straight glycol. The little diaphragm pumps would last a lot better I think but they make to much noise for filming

[@Grinchfeast]

@@juscozcustoms It rusted internally interesting wonder what other coolant options would work best

[@juscozcustoms]

@@Grinchfeast I looked into waterless coolant but it is much thicker so im thinking that glycol would be the better option

[@wtechboy18]

Is there a video of this thing in use?

[@juscozcustoms]

I have not made one but honestly there is not a lot to see when it is working correctly. its when things go wrong that it can be spectacular but i have never caught that on camera. what would you like to see it doing?

[@wtechboy18]

@@juscozcustoms I'd like to see a comparison of working with aluminum, with an air torch vs with this water-cooled torch, ideally. I'm just interested in seeing how effective the DIY version actually is.

[@juscozcustoms]

@@wtechboy18 good idea there is a big difference when welding alloy because of the amount of heat needed. Ill see what i can do.

[@wtechboy18]

@@juscozcustoms much obliged sir!

[@cliffordmcdonald8054]

So you’re just running it on 12v DC correct? I was gonna do this to modify my factory cooler but I can find a pump that will work on 110ac.