Homeowners are Destroying Generators Skipping 1 Step During a Power Outage

Stop skipping the MOST important step that is killing your generator every time you use it. Manufacturers clearly list this, but most homeowners have no idea that it matters. Even with the right Interlock this step MUST be done every time to reduce damage.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Silver Cymbal assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Silver Cymbal recommends safe practices when working on machines and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Silver Cymbal.

[@SilverCymbal]

Do you have other tips for your generator? Parts used: *Reliance Inlet* amzn.to/40SejMA *Labels* amzn.to/4hph4L0

[@LMBee00]

Don't run your generator next to my house, the noise pollution is disturbing and a nuisance!

[@davidcatlin1970]

Yes! I totally agree with everything you said, except for the turn off eco mode at startup! That is exactly the wrong thing. Let the generator warm up, with NO load, ON eco mode, to allow the internal engine parts to equalize temperature/size! We've lived off grid, and work in very rural environments. I've worn out a few generators. Something most of the people who are here will never do. They might ruin a few, but to actually run them all the way through the complete life cycle, takes a couple years of daily use. I have a Honda eu2000i with estimated 4,000-5,000 hrs on in. We ran a generator 18 hrs per day, 365 days per year, for 3 years. Oil was diesel grade 10w-30, and we changed it weekly. (Most of the time! Lol) We also learned that because of sandy/dusty conditions, to keep the generator up on a platform out of the dust! Let the air filter get clogged, and the added suction on the crankcase vent, the goes into the intake, behind the air filter, will slowly scavenge the oil from the crankcase, and run the engine low on oil very prematurely! FYI this is BAD! LOL.... We did use other generators in that time, but I think my estimate for the Honda generator is pretty close.... I think the engines would last longer if they designed an automatic start/warmup mode, beyond just the time delay in the generator. I also wish there was an electric or manual oil pump, to prime the engine lubrication, before cranking, on engines with pressure lubrication...

[@kayzrx8]

@@davidcatlin1970 I think you nailed this perfectly. Warming up is critical to any combustion engine . Dedicated oil coolers also helps for longevity if you can add one on.

[@xHICKORYx]

​@LMBee00 And I was just about to offer to run an extension cord to you for your fridge...

[@LMBee00]

@xHICKORYx Funny, I can live with or without a refrigerator, with or without my own solar system. Purchased once, maintain it myself and it's peacefully quiet, doesn't disturb any one else. I have extreme vertigo, constant ringing in both my ears and with my PTSD a generator literally rattles my brain, making my headache even worse, which makes me angry, anxious and more miserable than I am.

[@ethenjordan2010]

Your videos on literally everything is the clearest videos on KZbin.

[@SilverCymbal]

Thank you, that is very kind of you to say

[@YukonHawk1]

Agree 💯

[@Thewildmindofmike]

Agree 🤠

[@dukecraig2402]

Actually a modern vehicle won't start if you do that, pushing the gas to the floor and then trying to start it engages the "clear flood" mode, it shuts down the injectors so you can crank on a flooded engine to clear the cylinders. That's actually a trick for people with vehicles that have upside-down oil filters that can't fill them when doing an oil change, after installing the new filter and pouring in the oil engage the clear flood mode as described and crank on the engine until the low oil pressure light goes out, then your filter is filled and you can start it normally without the bearings running dry while the filter fills up.

[@user-rw7xd7qy3j]

You don't understand what the word "literally" means

[@JoeGraves24]

Been doing this process for the last 23 years. We lose power at least twice a year and have to go to backup often. As a testament to what this guy is saying, my 23 year old 5500 watt Troy Built genny just got replaced this year. Not because it was broken but because we needed a bigger unit. Now it is being utilized on my farm for barn power.

[@topotone]

Good advice. Ours is a transfer switch separate panel, wired into the main. 10 circuits are dedicated for gen power. After a power outage, we warm up the gen, as you importantly have shown, then begin energizing only the well pump. Then, one by one, flip breakers on for the rest, waiting between each for any initial surge to dissipate, such as the fridge.

[@Rob-BC]

Ditto. A Reliance 50 amp 10 gang unit. 2 doubles, one for AC, and the other for the water heater. The best way to go, IMO.

[@bluerider0988]

I have a Reliance transfer switch kit that has a separate panel. With this setup it's impossible to accidentally back feed into your main panel. When you flip the breakers in the generator panel it switches those selected circuits between either the generator or the main electrical panel. With this setup there is no reason to turn off the main electrical breaker because your generator power is completely separate from your main panel When your power comes back on you simply flip the breakers in the generator panel and they are back on the house main power. I think the setup shown in the video relies too much on the user to get it right.

[@CandorPerlicious]

My dad installed a transfer switch years ago at our family home. Then when I bought my first home it came pre-wired with a transfer switch, generator and whole house surge protector. Haven't needed it yet but I am sure glad I got it. Just the essentials is all i have connected, and yep, pretty hard to mess up with back feed with this system. Just don't go throwing all the breakers at once and you're good.

[@eugenetswong]

Thank you for mentioning the fridge. I didn't think that it would be a problem.

[@brlinf06398]

ye fridges and pumps have motors so it has inrush current

[@robertthomas5906]

Use ethanol free gasoline for the generator. Just google for a station near you. It's worth it. You want ethanol free gas in small engines. Check engine oil before starting. Let the generator run for about 2-3 minutes to cool down after load. Turn generator off by turning the fuel off so it'll pull all the fuel out of the carb. Check the generator every 6 months - making sure to cut the fuel off to stop it. I have a 25 year old Generac that I kept running doing this. It originally started as a construction generator that they blew up because they didn't keep oil in the engine. I rebuilt it in 2004 (B&S engine, new piston, connecting rod, rings were the big items. About $150 to repair in parts, $50 to buy from the small engine repair shop). I've used it to power houses, construction projects, house repairs, provide power for aircraft, and so on. I used it as recently as a month ago. Still runs perfect even with a max load.

[@carlthetruthwilliams9447]

Excellent post. Thank you.

[@jeffroalpha700]

I agree, excellent points! One thing to remember with ethanol-free fuel is to run a few gallons into your vehicle’s tank first before filling your gas cans. I believe it was Chickantic’s channel that talked about this issue a few years ago. She said she was repairing small engines that had ethanol related damage even though the owners swore they were pumping ethanol-free fuel. It turns out, many of the pumps use the same hose for multiple grades and ethanol-free fuel. A couple of gallons of residual fuel needs to be pumped out. When they were filling a 1-2 gallon portable tank, they were basically filling it with regular, ethanol-contaminated fuel.

[@dukecraig2402]

Just buy the ethanol neutralizer made by any one of a number of different manufacturers, ever since I started adding it to my gas cans whenever I get gas for my lawn and garden equipment all my ethanol problems disappeared, no more melting fuel lines or carbs, and I can once again leave my seasonal equipment, both 2 and 4 stroke, sit out of season and the next time I grab them months later they fire right up, just like the pre ethanol days there's no more draining fuel tanks and throwing away any fuel that sat during the off season. It's cheap and it works, no buying ridiculously expensive gas for things that shouldn't cost what it does because somethings missing from it, yea, explain that logic.

[@carlthetruthwilliams9447]

After I got excited about ethanol-free fuel I did a lot of research in finding ethanol-free fuel near me threw the renown website -"Pure gas", only to find nothing anywhere. I even drove to the gas stations that acclaimed to be. Nodda.

[@economicprisoner]

@@jeffroalpha700 So I can only buy the sealed cans of fuel with my EV then?

[@WardNH]

Nice reminder to take it easy on the genny. I found a great accessory for when we lose power called a Power-Back Alert…installs through a knockout in your panel, and has a lead that you wraparound your main cable in from the street. When power comes back, it sounds a loud alert so you know you can shut the genny off again.

[@anonimous2451]

That is a CT Coil Sensor or An Inductive Sensor (likely the latter) which sends a signal that actives a separate sourced (battery/outlet) sound device. They are cheap and effective.

[@Whatsupeiththestupidhandlebs]

I have a similar device. It’s called the street light in front of my house. When it is on I know the power is back. 🤣😂

[@prettygirlus9008]

Yes, I bought one from HD. Got to remember to turn on the switch on the device after a power failure.

[@WardNH]

@@Whatsupeiththestupidhandlebs super convenient if you have it. But the alert is vital for this of us who live in the boonies, have no streetlights or neighbors for a mile.

[@frankelmer8055]

Out here in the country I don't have a pole lamp so I connected a night light to the incoming line to let me know when power is back.

[@jeff11030]

Ever since I bought my generator, I haven’t had a power failure.

[@error404m]

Sell it, and you'll get a power cut the next day.

[@gasmanoav]

So your generator works great. 😂

[@dguiley]

I’ve bought 2 of them. The first one was the same day as a couple hour power outage because my wife was on oxygen and I wanted to be sure I could keep her machine running and not reliant on finite bottles on hand. She has since passed but I went ahead and bought a larger inverter type generator and then installed an inlet box and interlock. Still no outages, lol.

[@jimgeneva2464]

Insurance

[@DanaN43]

Same, last time power went out was supposed to be a few hours I decided to hook it up as I started it heard my ring doorbell come on 🤦‍♂

[@johanslabbert2869]

Might be more relevant to a commercial setting, but always add any loads that are turning motors to the generator first. The first half second or so of an electric motor starting up is quite rough on generators, so if you added these last when your system is near full capacity it could easily overwhelm the generator causing surges and tripping, and even damage other connected equipment. Ask me how I know 😅

[@k.b.tidwell]

This isn't a contradiction, just an add-on. In residential I'd say that includes refrigerators, freezers, A/C units, fans...all have rotating motors, so a good procedure for commercial AND residential. Too bad, like he said, sometimes when these events happen we're not awake and thinking clearly.

[@SmooveBee1]

I agree; and go ahead and disable anything that is not needed for the duration of a storm/event. With a home of several AC / Fridge / Dehumidifiers, I turn off anything that is just not a requirement for a few hours. Here in the South, AC / Well-Pump / Heat come first.

[@ronb6182]

I have window units and they must be off.my generator is not connected to the panel but running only low watt items. The refrigerator is important but staying cool is not. I only run the living room window unit. Maybe the bedroom if the living room AC is off. I found out it's not a good idea to bond a generator or inverter the neutral and ground is zero volts on grid but on an inverter and generator the neutral and ground is about forty volts so bonded is a no no. I would think a transfer switch is unbounded. I don't have one so I'm using logic on that statement. Shorting out forty volts is not good on a generator or inverter. 73 ​@@SmooveBee1

[@jimmiller5600]

I learned that from Apollo 13. ;)

[@petersack5074]

? cause you brrnt out - the voltage regulator, and / or other circuitry.....

[@paulv22]

I've always done this mostly because my generator doesn't have enough power for the whole house. I also made a spreadsheet with the circuit number and what's on it. There's an additional column that tells me to turn it on when on generator power. All that said, at this point my house has LED lights everywhere except a few places I turn on rarely. That's a big benefit when on a generator.

[@JessicaFEREM]

That does make me wish there was a house standard for 12V. I'd like to imagine it would be more efficient if there was a 12v line in the breaker that was converted to 12v before being sent out, reducing the heat and load. this probably doesn't make a hole lotta sense, but I could imagine once you're getting to 4 ceiling fans it could have some marginal benefit. the big benefit though is that you could just allegator clip a car battery to the breaker after turning off backfeeding. possibly they could put the 12v in the light switch too.

[@paulv22]

@@JessicaFEREM I'm not following and not really seeing the benefit. Most appliances and fixtures with electric motors use AC. DC isn't efficient over long wire runs so you'd have to balance that against any losses from converting to DC at the device.

[@user-gq2vn1xj2r]

​@@JessicaFEREMToo much voltage drop at 12 volt.

[@toukoaozaki]

@@paulv22Given the same voltage, DC is actually better (less losses) over long runs because DC doesn’t have capacitive losses unlike AC. The problem in the proposed situation is that 12VDC is a lot lower voltage than 120VAC so it is definitely not favorable when it comes to efficiency.

[@davidbenson5451]

I spent the extra money for a generlink connection at my power meter. It prevents back feeding the grid, and acts as a whole house surge suppressor. Yes it is more expensive than a manual setup. But in my case, with an older home and limited panel space, it was actually less expensive to install. Thanks for the helpful reminder about the proper sequence of operations to getting my generator connected and running safely during a power outage.

[@charly3rd273]

Can you please provide manufacturer info ?

[@MUUKOW3]

​@@charly3rd273Just Google generlink. They are very simple as they are plug and play , the cost is reasonable compared to getting your panel retrofitted and you can take it if you move!

[@consumerreviews5838]

THANK GOODNESS. HERE'S THE RARE VIDEO ON KZbin THAT SHOWS GOOD EDITING, NO WANDERING AROUND LOST IN SUBJECTS.

[@tedjohnson64]

I’ve watched over a dozen videos on this topic, and am surprised none of them mentioned this. Also, the editing and succinct presentation of this video are chef’s kiss!

[@fiehlsport]

As a homeowner who will probably never own a gas generator, this was a good watch. Thanks Chris!

[@Parker-di7ef]

Never say never!

[@johnhansen8272]

@@Parker-di7efjinx

[@ainttakenanyshit]

IF you lived in Florida, Your statement would be, *I will NEVER be without a generator* .... *PERIOD* ....

[@jamesjoslin7586]

Why is that ?

[@joshlarkin5022]

I put one of these in my old house and put some basic instructions on the panel. Step 1 was Turn ALL breakers off. Also when disconnecting most generators are supposed to run for a few min with no load after running under load to come come to a steady state temp, although this step could vary depending on your generator, so always read the instructions.

[@joshm3342]

Clear, concise & correct. Thanks! I let my generator warm up a few minutes while I hook up the extension cable.

[@bozosplayhouse]

I have to say that starting your genset with ECOMODE ON (lower rpm) is better than letting it warm up at full throttle.. a cold genset gets most of it's wear on the initial start and run up. The processor in the inverter will pull the throttle wide open for starting on choke automatically. Older gensets with mechanical governors and AC alternators usually do the same but cannot be adjusted for a lower run up rpm. The wear on a cold motor is brutal, especially in sub zero conditions after sitting for months.. maybe leave it in your garage if you can to keep it warmer for easier starting and engine longevity. I've been using gensets since the 70's for work and remote living in the canadian north, always let them warm up before transferring any loads.. an extra 5-10 minutes with the power off isn't going to change anything in an outage, but will increase the longevity and reliability of the unit considerably. After the unit is warm, it doesn't really matter how you load the unit as long as it's not overloaded. Understand your loads in your breaker panel, turn non essential loads off.. fridges and freezers will take a few minutes to stabilize their high initial current draw, same with well pumps as they re-pressurize the system. Just listen to your genset as you enable more loads (turn on breakers) and when it sounds badly labored, just give it a second to catch up before adding more loads. Most people don't have generator transfer switches installed in their homes or just use the genset to power loads through extension cords. This is fine as a temporary solution in an emergency, but if you require AC backup, call an electrician and get the job done right. They can advise you on sizing your genset and having the proper controls and interlocks installed in your home to keep everyone safe.. also, have your genset serviced yearly (or run for 15 minutes) and if you need to keep it fueled, add some fuel stabilizer. Generators tend to be forgotten about until they are needed the most.

[@jamesglavich1426]

Good advice on the generator tips and usage. On a side note, you must have forgotten the Buicks in the 50's, the starter button was under the gas pedal. I can remember some of the older people would start and was little slow releasing the pedal to idle. I always thought the Buick's of the day had to be pretty tough to endure this every time it was started.

[@SuperKONR]

On a lot of carbureted cars you have to open the throttle on a hot start. When you initially shut it off and it heat soaks, the fuel boils and expands and somewhat floods the engine. So if you shut it off at the store and you come back 10 minutes later it will be flooded and not start unless you hold the throttle open while cranking. Pretty sure that's why Buicks had the starter switch there, so the uninformed wouldn't be stranded in a flooded condition. I usually lower the float level in the carb a hair then retune, so it doesn't flood as bad.

[@ethanh5147]

Great tip thanks Chris. I have skipped this step in the past with my interlock connected generator, but the car starting analogy makes a lot of sense and I will not skip this step in the future.

[@chrishackett554]

Love my Predator 9500. Runs our entire household. Good video.

[@johnclyne6350]

I thought everyone did what you suggested? It’s called cold load pick up. Anyone doing that will shorten the life of their appliances & the generator. We use non eco during day light hours & economy at night. Just before bed we shut the generator off & switch open our individual breakers for the next day. Great tip for those not in the know! Great content!

[@polosandoval]

Save your generator fuel by turning on only what you need.

[@jlosFLTX]

Save your generator by running it when you don't need it! Not just emergencies. Good gas, clean injectors!

[@erikj9962]

As soon as the power goes out all my neighbors fire up their noisy generators and leave them running until the power is back on. I wish I could have a few hours of quiet. It takes some time for the fridge to warm up.

[@chris4321das]

@@jlosFLTX You can afford a generator with an injector (or more)?? Wow! (most are carburetted)

[@schwarzerritter5724]

@@erikj9962 I find it hilarious talking about refrigerators when there is snow in the video.

[@jlosFLTX]

@ like almost all diesel?? and yes, the tractors, the trucks, the generac, the boat gen......not everyone can plug their toys all into a honda 2000

[@MrGrigs681]

I have never understood or agreed with turning eco mode off when starting.....even if that is what the manual says. Everything I know about engines tells me it is better to start at a lower RPM. I start mine in eco mode and let it run for a minute before switching it off. With eco mode off I let it run for another couple of minutes before adding loads as you showed in your video. After a few minutes, I switch it back to eco mode for the duration I use it. I think the reason the manual says to not start in eco mode is because people tend to add loads too quickly before the generator can fully warm up and having it out of eco mode and running at a higher RPM will help it warm up more quickly.

[@michaeldezelar6264]

Higher RPMs with cold oil will help circulate the oil better than warming up at low RPMs... just like your car will idle higher for a minute or so when first started before dropping below 1K RPMs.

[@MrGrigs681]

@@michaeldezelar6264 I understand that and do not disagree with it in principle. The difference in this situation is that most generators when running in normal mode run at 3,600 RPMs and IMO that is too high for an engine at startup. Even in eco mode the RPMs are higher than a typical motor at startup with the RPMs around 1,800. Most generators are also different in that they use simple splash lubrication versus an oil pump.

[@SuperKONR]

If there's no load on the engine then you aren't really going to see excessive wear on high speed startups. It's the load that causes the wear, so as long as you don't load it down until it's warmed up then it's fine. Splash lubrication relies on rpm to get oil up to the top end.

[@ericwilliams952]

Great description well described. Been following your procedure for years and trying to teach it to others.

[@hankschrader149]

Outstanding video, clear concise and to the point! I just bought a home last year and it's wired for a generator haven't had to use it yet....but this video helps!

[@Joe-xq3zu]

I grew up on a dairy farm and we had a big ol 30kw generator that had to be hooked up to a tractor. Thing had to run the entire farm especially the big electric motor on the vacuum pump for the milking setup, and that took a lot of power. We got rid of the cows after we had that bad winter back in 13-14 but we still have that big old beast, and now that you mention it I can't recall ever doing this procedure once, we'd just wheel it over to the main power pole with the meter box on it, hook it up via a inch thick cable rev up the tractor and flip a big lever from the up position (overhead lines) to down (generator feed) and go about our business till the power company got the lines back up.

[@busnorth]

Almost the same set up but with a big welder on a trailer. It won't run every thing . Infact I have to make shure the 3 phase motors are off first or they will burn up.

[@charlesmciver897]

Excellent advice which is the standard for your channel! Thanks for clearly covering a wide variety of much needed knowledge.

[@adsrentals]

It's amazing how many people don't switch their main off at the onset if power loss, then all the breakers. I do this all the time and when I am satisfied the power is on and stable for about 15 minutes, switch the main on then individually breakers. The surge of power spikes that are unstable is what can damage electronics. Been doing this for decades before acquiring a generator for backup.

[@Threedog1963]

My generator has the half speed option. I agree, it is counterintuitive to start at full speed, but that's what the instructions say, so that's what I do. My generator is big enough that it can power the entire house, except the air conditioner. Good idea with the red dot sticker. Thanks for the video.

[@fZionists78]

You will never see more than 5% of the appreciation people have for you. The 95% you will never see becomes more valued every year. Multiple times more every decade. I hate KZbin. This is a valuable channel.

[@W.Vanderbilt]

This information is highly valuable; the videos provide excellent guidance, and I frequently consult them for assistance. Thank you.

[@ffjsb]

You can leave some circuits on if they're just lighting, especially if you're using LED bulbs. Typically you can leave on lighting to where your panel is and lighting for stairways. That's very minimal draw. Another handy thing to do is to have a few LED lights that will come on when the power goes out automatically so you have emergency lights. If you don't have an enclosed mounted generator, you can make a cover for your generator by using a piece of heavy plywood that has about a foot overhang on every side to protect from rain. Add blocking on the bottom so it can't slide or vibrate off, and use a sandbag or something heavy to keep the wind from blowing it off. That will help keep rain off of it.

[@mvaluk]

Thanks for the tip and I will be doing this going forward. It makes sense when you think about it.

[@dhg247x1]

If you grew up with carburetors in cars, then you know the beginning "what not to do" to start cars was actually how you started them sometimes. It is wild how times have changed.

[@kpkndusa]

As a generator operator in the the military, I had to let the radio operator know when I was going to switch over generators so the power supply to the electronics wouldn't blow from a power surge. So make sure your breakers are off before you send power from the generator.

[@Linus007]

Good video. This is true for a diesel generator. Let it warm up while connecting things. With mine, I do not engage the alternator until the engine is warm. Engage the alternator then start turning on power in the house. The same is true when you need to shut down. Remove the generator from the power and let it run for a minute or tool without any load. That will allow the generator to cool slightly before you completely shut off the generator. The other thing that is nice to have and very important is a checklist for start up and shutdown. Sometimes in the dark that can be the difference between forgetting to plug-in a carbon monoxide monitor or not. If you are not around that checklist is important for somebody who is not completely familiar with the generator procedures.

[@dcviper985]

Our standby gen’s at work have hot water heaters and pumps for the engine coolant. We keep it at 110F all the time so that they can crank quickly and easily and be ready to take a 2MW load right away.

[@tscoff]

I have a “whole house” battery backup and I installed a second circuit breaker panel and moved my big items off of my main breaker panel onto it. When there’s a power outage I don’t power my HVAC, hot water heater, dryer, or stove. I only run my refrigerator, lights, and small appliances like my coffee pot and the cutover is completely automatic. That is another option to make it easier for people who have generators too.

[@meandthemrs7403]

Very well explained. Your local news should have you on when there is the potential of a power outage.

[@gmacted]

I agree with most of your statements except the statement you make at 1:44 of the video. You state that when you connect your generator "really doesn't make any difference". That is incorrect. You should always ensure the generator is plugged in before starting it. This fact is clearly stated at 2:55 of the video ... "Connect your cord and lock in place and start the generator" and also at 2:57 of the video ... "Connect and start your generator". The reason you want to connect it before starting it is you want to ensure the generator is properly grounded before starting it. You should ensure that only a "floating neutral" generator is connected to your house unless you are using a "switched neutral transfer switch". A "floating neutral" generator will only be properly grounded when it is plugged in. There are some rare scenarios that can harm the operator of a "floating neutral" generator if it is not properly ground, but it is still possible. The bottom line message is, plug in your "floating neutral" generator before starting it.

[@iconoclad]

I'm not exactly sure what eco mode does but I assume it allows the generator to cycle down under low load conditions. This is exactly what you would want during warm up. You don't want the engine screaming its guts out when it is cold. By the time you have hooked your cables up it should have warmed up enough that you can switch it to normal mode. Then energise your fridge and freezer circuits first, followed by lighting.

[@lGuileWilliamsl]

With a battery/inverter setup, the load of the household devices is on the batteries during a power outage and thus no surge current is required to turn everything on. An additional mention for people who supplement their power.

[@Consequator]

Good advice for small generators. The big automatic ones tend to start 30s after power loss but are pre-heated. Then they run for a little bit before the automatic transfer switch starts feeding the building. Depending on size this can be done in a staggered fashion. This is why battery backups in setups that have a generator are usually scaled for 10-15 minutes of runtime only, as that is the time needed for the generator to (hopefully) kick in properly.

[@polarablues64]

Always remove all electrical loads before turning off the generator. Shutting down a loaded generator can sometimes demagnetize it and cause it to not generate electricity the next time you try to use it.

[@Chris_at_Home]

I have an Auto transfer switch with built in time delays for picking up the load and a cool down period when the utility power is restored. Where I live we can’t have utility power and generator power switches in a breaker panel, it has to be a separate standalone transfer switch.

[@charly3rd273]

Good point

[@davidyummus6259]

The main reason to start with Eco Mode OFF is most of these engines have a "Splash Feed" lubrication system. This means most don't have a Pump like a Car, they have a Dipper which "Splashes" oil around to lubricate the Engine so more speed, more lubrication.

[@donaldhoudek2889]

I have an Ecobee thermostat and the thing that I like the most about it is that if there is a power failure, when the power comes back on or the automatic transfer switch starts the 12.5kW Westinghouse portable generator the Ecobee does not allow the HVAC unit to start up for about 4 or 5 minutes, as the Ecobee is going through a restart calculation mode. This alone will keep the large HVAC load from coming on with everything else, when the circuits are energized. My "Critical Loads" sub panel is powered by my EG4 - 600XP whole house battery backup system.

[@edl617]

Growing up we had an electric stove. Our generator was for two things. The stove and well pump. We had a fire place. We sleep In the living room where the fireplace was. Oh the water heater was propane. Candles and hurricane lanterns were our lighting

[@kylefowler5082]

another thing you can do is protect your electrical panel and flip the main breaker on or off only when all the other breakers are off. Main breakers are the hardest to change and sometimes you can't get a replacement easily. And as an electrician myself I can tell you the homeowner that you will have to pay the emergency rate to change that breaker. Just like you described with the starting your car analogy flipping your main breaker with a load on it causes unnecessary wear and tear on the most expensive part of your electric panel.

[@robert5]

Just because all my breakers are on DOES NOT mean all those appliances are on. Both stoves are off. Dryer is off... About the only 2 I do check on is the AC, if it is summer and I'm using it then the well pump. Of course the welder and machines in the shop are off. If the genny can't handle 1/3 the lights being on, when I switch it on... somethings wrong.

[@TheBry_Guy]

All great and valid info, clearly delivered. As a note, Backfeeding is great and the interlock is great, but make sure you check with an electrician in your area BEFORE doing it. It is definitely NOT legal in Ontario, and I believe all of Canada but am not positive. The only LEGAL way in Canada is a transfer switch like a GENERLINK or one like they would use for a whole house generator. I think it's silly, but I am not in charge. I bought the Generlink in Ontario with an 80 foot cord, 2 years ago, installed for about 1800 (Canadian) bucks. Otherwise, my procedure is exactly the same as yours (but I leave the main breaker on as the generlink does that for me). My generator, 5500 running/7000 peak can run the whole house with no issues Even the A/C. the lights do flicker when the electric stove element turns on/off but each of those are about 3500 watts so I turn that breaker off. Hot water is gas, no well pump.

[@burnetthopkins9583]

Good advice. I always enjoy your videos. You explain things well. Keep up the good work.

[@TurpInTexas]

I didn't go with the full house backup, I installed a panel that only powers a few critical circuits in the house, like the air handler for the gas furnace and the condenser for the air conditioner (its a Trane 4 ton variable speed compressor and fan so it by nature soft starts and the generator runs it at full load with no problem, surprisingly), the fridge and kitchen lights, and the adjacent den, and the garage. The rest of the house remains on the main breakers and when the main power comes back on, we will see the rest of the house turns back on.

[@brlinf06398]

variable speed sounds like a soft starter

[@tannersmith8948]

Man I really enjoy whenever you post, your videos are so concise and to the point

[@robertclymer6948]

Great advice and make total sense to do it this way, and I do. Thanks and Cheers from Michigan

[@joefratianni8693]

You might want to mention that this would be recommended for portable gas and/or battery generators. You are not going to do this with the a whole home gen as its made to failover when the power goes out. Same thing with a properly sized battery system.

[@AlanHMartin]

Good point; thanks for taking the time to make the video. Don't yet have the _generator_, but that's how I had our house wired, and I greatly appreciate the nuance.

[@jeroen5838]

With properly configured emergency generator to load surge of everything turning on is fine. The load pickup of the engine can take it, and the voltage regulation was tested for this. These engines often start with overspeed surge. With those cheap small units the voltage regulation may cause significant dip and swell, because if it reacted too fast it would stall the tiny engine. These voltage fluctuation may damage your electronics. Good advice

[@Lex1uth3r]

Great video, exactly how my dad taught me to use mine.

[@jeffryan590]

I have a laminated Check List right next to my Circuit Breaker panel (along with a flashlight & the key to the generator house). Yes, a Check List. One side is for Start up & the other is for Shutdown. At 3am, are you truly awake to remember, what to do? It includes checking the oil level, Starting the generator, allowing it to warm up, turning off ALL Breakers (yes, all of them), connecting the power cord to the house, then turning ON the 'essential' breakers first (I have them marked green - lights in room with the breaker box, furnace, fridge & freezer), one at a time, allowing 10-15 second pause between breakers. Then I turn on the 'Non-essentials' (lights, outlets, etc). I leave the high power items like the A/C, Range, Dryer, Water Heater, etc OFF. (I only have a 7000 watt generator, not big enough to power the entire breaker panel) If I really need one of these high power items, I would turn OFF all of my Non-essentials & some of the Essentials to free up as much power to run one of the High Power items. I also include ideas on how to conserve fuel needed to run the generator, especially if you know the power will be out for days or maybe weeks. Run your generator for 1-2 hours, then shut it down for 2-4 hours (or more), subject to your current conditions. Figure out before a power outage, what Circuits are essential for your home. What will you do IF you run out of fuel before the power is restored? What is your weather conditions? Do you have spare oil for your generator? Have you ever done a full house test? When was the last time you started your generator? Will it start? I do a full house test once a year & start my generator every 1-2 months. The last thing you need is a generator that will NOT start or stay running when you really need it.

[@bikeny]

Good info and presentation. I'm guessing/assuming you told your family you were going to be doing this video so they knew about the power outage ahead of time. That way no computers and other electrical equipment was harmed during the making of the video.

[@YouTalkinToMeBro]

I switch off all high power breakers, then the main before I even start the generator as well.

[@itzjoeylo4501]

I also have a generator interlock system, I used a label maker to print out step by step instructions so if anyone else needs to prepare the generator for emergency power they have a list of descriptive directions on how to do so. Also it’s there for me to follow if it’s in the middle of the night. I also installed an emergency light above the breaker box so I don’t have to mess with a flashlight.

[@SilverCymbal]

People may think we are nerds for doing these things but its easier for you and someone else. Just saves a lot of headaches and safety. I think its great and very helpful

[@itzjoeylo4501]

@ thank you sir

[@k.b.tidwell]

@@SilverCymbal hey, it's hip to be square. Certain age groups will remember that. 😁

[@Nicole215]

Thank you for sharing this information.

[@SilverCymbal]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@fizixx]

Great info! Thanks, always, for all your hard work.

[@pcnetworks1292]

I have a 15kw @60A Diesel generator that ties into a manual transfer switch which ensures no backfeeding occurs. It makes good sense to completely disconnect the house load by opening all breakers in advance of throwing the transfer switch. My largest electrical load is the water well.

[@keithnoneya]

Unfortunately my breaker box doesn't come with an interlock, nor will it support one. My main house feed breaker box has two rows like yours, but only 5 breakers. It has NO top main overall breaker. Also my inside house breakers are the same there is not single breaker to shut off or put a sliding plate on. So I just have to remember to shut my main house breakers off before I hook up the "Suicide Cord". I have strict start up procedure like you and and strict shut down procedure as well. I wrote it all down to protect myself, and my family. Only I am allowed to start the generator or connect it or disconnect it at my house. I also have a separate safety ground cord for the generator to the house as a backup that is connected before the house cord is attached and the generator is started. I also test the generator before any connections are made and it shut down before any connections are made. So far so good.

[@economicprisoner]

Not sure it will save much money over replacing the panel: But you can install an "essential load" panel with an interlock.

[@keithnoneya]

@@economicprisoner Thanks, yeah I was thinking about that too. At one time I looked at what it would cost to change the panel and do that, and well $600.00 in labor plus parts it was over $1,200.00. So I said well I'll just go outside and flip it manually, then do my thing. Thanks for the info anyways. Keith Noneya

[@TinkerbatTech]

Very well stated and great advice. Any motor or especially, compressor based appliances (refer, freezer/a/c, heat pump) have a tendency to surge a lot when started, which can stress a generator pretty badly. even if it doesn't damage the generator, the surges could take out more delicate electronics as the generator tries to stabilize. By sequencing the breakers and getting the tougher loads running in sequence first, then the delicate things last is less stressful on everything and less likely to cause issues. And don't forget to check and change that oil...:) Good stuff! (I've pretty much put all my essential circuits on a giant UPS (20KWh, 3000W out max but averages under 400W) so that things keep running for a couple of days or so and if it's looking bleak, I can connect the generator to the UPS and charge/run the place that way as well. Power's not the most solid up here in the mountains sometimes. Last time 3.5 days)

[@brlinf06398]

inrush

[@rottedandmodded]

Stop neutral dropping your generators! Awesome video as always!

[@mae2759]

What do you mean?

[@guysteel]

@@mae2759 Basically he is telling us to unload your generator slowly. Just like this video shows how to load it up slowly, best practice is to slowly lower the load back to a neutral state before shutting it off.

[@rupe53]

@@mae2759 the comment about neutral dropping is an old hot rod phrase for revving the engine in neutral then dropping into gear with a bang. It has nothing to do with an electrical neutral.

[@GeometryWars]

I will share this with my father. Thank you

[@dennislockwood7352]

I have a Reliance 2 leg Watt Meter in line for my 30AMP connection into my panel. This allows you to see how much each circuit breaker is drawing & on which leg as you throw them back on individually, so you can keep your load balanced. I had my panel upgraded last year so I now need to mark each breaker to know which side it is using.

[@emmettturner9452]

I have a toggle for my workshop’s hot water heater and garage heater on the same 240v circuit. The hot water heater is in an uninsulated concrete bathroom with a draft, meaning it is exposed to freezing temperatures. I have found that it remains hot for days and warm for around a week if I leave it switched to the garage heater. So, yeah, you probably do not need the hot water heater in most power outages.

[@Pablo-cp9nc]

Great job on the video very good info. I’ve always done that but more so for the actual appliances than the generator.

[@morganjones3980]

During extended storing keep the carburetor float bowl empty if it is more than a couple of months of storing ways to go about doing that is just run it till it dies or there's usually a Phillips head or 10 mm drain bolt underneath the carburetor to empty the float bowl

[@craighansen7594]

I built my own transfer box. I don't have a large backup system so only a few circuits are powered by the backup. I presently do not have a interlock blocking plate. I have the sequence printed on a laminated label on the main panel box. It works flawlessly If you follow directions. My point is a well laid out procedure, printed clearly should be on the front of your box. You may know the procedure but what if someone else needs to switch to aux power? They need a simple, by the numbers checklist.

[@shaynegadsden]

That is 100% illegal it has to be physically impossible to have mains and generator feeds on at the same time since an error could kill someone

[@iaff801]

Yeah so I don't know what experience you have with small engines but your comment about a small engine bogging down if you start it at an idle is bogus. Small engines should be started at a slower speed. Most small engine oil systems rely on oil splash. Meaning they don't have oil pumps to get oil pressure. Starting a splash oil system at full speed causes premature engine wear. And they don't bog down at an idle unless they are loaded or running poorly. And yes, I own a small engine repair shop.

[@Philip-KA4KOE]

As an EE, I approve this video.

[@brlinf06398]

true

[@asbestosfiber]

I keep the choke on start it. then turn the eco mode ON let it idle for 30 seconds or so then take the Eco switch off and let it rev up a bit. This give the oil a chance to get into the engine a bit more. Inverters tend not to need this as much as they won't just run WFO without a load

[@kwacz]

I have a small generator I got for free. I've had it for many years. I use it to run a welder and an air compressor. When the welder is welding it is near capacity. And when the air compressor kicks on it loads it down pretty hard is it is either at or even possibly slightly above capacity to start the motor. It has been running like this for many years with no problems. I'm not saying this is good for it by any means just simply that I haven't damaged anything by doing this. They are pretty rugged.

[@sylviaisgod6947]

You should also disconnect the neutral bonded to the generator frame when connecting to your house panel. There are videos that explain the reason for this.

[@MrNobody2828]

First thing I do on everything with an engine, check the oil level in the crankcase before starting engine. Oil leak may have occured while sitting over time.

[@10thAveFreezeOut]

Silver Cymbal - looking at your panel, I feel like there's a recall for that particular panel and breakers. You should check.

[@davidsecord6412]

One of the things people think of in a brown-down or blackout condition is also turning off breakers to anything with a condenser, motor, compressor circuit. When the power first comes back, there is any entire grid of homes powering back on and the voltage sway seen as the grid is reenergized is something to see. When a coil is energized, until it is saturated, it effectively draws infinite current, although for just a split second. If you are simultaneously powering up multiple items within your home with motors, condensers, compressors (just as every other home on that grid is doing) you will see a ramp-up of voltage and amperage (just as you see in a brown-down) and those coils will be drawing (effectively) infinite current for more than a split second as it takes longer to saturate the coils in the device. Rather obviously, the response time on a breaker is too slow to respond to this, a coil of wire can't draw and sustain infinite current, and the coil will fry and the device will die. A lot of life is robbed from a refrigerator or AC compressor due to this. When the power goes out, I put the breakers for the AC, refrigerator and anything else with a coil in the "off" position and won't reengergize these devices until the power is restored, a minute or so has gone by to stabilize the grid throughout my neighborhood and power-up can be done, one device and breaker at a time. I can't remember how many people to whom I've spoken after a power outage who lost a refrigerator after the power came back on for this reason. Pax.

[@Jon651]

An important - and frequently ignored - issue I see is putting too much of the load on only one leg of your generator. If you install a transfer switch, I only recommend those with dual watt meters so you can keep track of the load on each leg. This helps you keep the load balanced between legs as well as lets you know when you begin to draw too much power overall. A good installer will arrange it so the average and max loads on each leg are as close as possible.

[@CubbyTech]

Good advice - I forget if you already talked about the Generator Neutral-Ground bond (That usually exists)

[@thefpvlife7785]

You’re such a treasure. Ty sir.

[@handymanheroes6463]

Wow I never thought of this but you're 100% right thank you

[@charliemason4355]

Good advise. If you have a subpanel, you need to flip those breakers, too, not just the subpanel breaker in the main panel. We have well water. The well pump and sump pump are both wired into the subpanel. Additionally, there's a freezer connected to the subpanel. That's over 1 hp of electric motors. I flip those breakers individually and listen to the generator's sound. If I hear the sound of a load, I wait for the generator to recover before flipping the next, and so on.

[@jonkirkwood469]

Sounds just like my setup. I'm pretty sure I would have forgotten the subpanel breakers. Thanks for the reminder.

[@rik8809]

I have a battery powered light with a magnetic base mounted to my panel. It makes it easy to read the various breaker labels, and is great should you ever need to work on the panel.

[@turbofroggy]

What if you have a full home automatic transfer switch and an automatic generator? Everything stays on and the generator takes all the load within 30-60 seconds. Sure your video might apply to harbor freight generators, but an permininantly installed, non portable generator is more than capable of taking up the full load all at once if sized correctly and without damage.

[@mae2759]

It certainly is, with a 10k price increase from this setup.

[@the_retag]

These Generators are also usually preheated and some have auxillary oil pre pumps, meaning they get up to operation temp and oil pressure within seconds after startup

[@shaynegadsden]

Also in a setup like that you would already have a calculated load so either some circuits are split out and only those come on with the backup or the generator was sized for the whole house either way it isn't overloaded

[@Mauser.K98.Guy.243]

That isn't what this video is about.

[@JoeSmoeDoeLow]

Something tells me you have data center experience. Inrush current definitely needs to be taken into account.

[@anonimous2451]

Have had 3 Generators and the last one is a whole house propane/diesel dual fuel unit that is fully automatic.

[@CamelGarage]

0:02 oh is that a fact? Well you’re wrong! That’s EXACTLY how i start all of my vehicles I don’t even let off to shift into drive FULL SEND ALL THE TIME!!

[@nullinterface2077]

As I'm using a couple portable 120V generators in parallel, this has been SOP from day 1 - they don't have the Wheaties™ to handle even the 120V surge. Switch key 120V circuits on one at a time, listening for surge as I go.

[@bubbatime]

Decent advice with one major improvement suggestion. DO NOT handle the 240V power cord and make connections after the generator is running. That's 30-50 amps of 240V power and enough to kill. Generator connections with a 30/50 amp cord to the house inlet box should be made before the generator is started.

[@jakegingrich7214]

I get what you saying for this little generator, however mine is a welder generator. Lincoln 305G, I'd imagine that's a little different. As when I'm welding its demanding alot of electricity when I arc. Goes from low idle to high idle immediately, all day. So would what's protecting the 305G from wearing out vs the home gamer generators?

[@mooch91]

I put the dot on the critical circuits that I will always want ON with the generator, the essential circuits like: smoke alarms, refrigerator/freezers, water system UV lamp, etc. These are the ones which go on first when the generator gets fired up.

[@Boxpok]

That's exactly the way I do it. Well explained.

[@drbichat5229]

I had an electrician install the interlock and the inlet panel. The circuits that I need are also marked with a red dot

[@HansZarkovPhD]

I have had my troy bilt 3550 since 2007. Lasted me through a dozen hjrricanes, several winter outages and a major flood. Still starts one pull.

[@christopherkidwell9817]

No. These things specifically say in the instructions to NOT turn the eco mode off during startup.

[@SilverCymbal]

Here is an excerpt from the Honda Manual under the starting *If you wish to use the Eco-Throttle system, turn the Eco-Throttle switch to the ON position after the engine has warmed up for 2 or 3 minutes* From me, always follow your manual but I have never seen it specified differently.

[@NoBucks777]

Good job! Thank you!

[@sgg17003]

Great video. Thanks!

[@Redfour5]

Good video practical advice.