Honda 400 / 4 engine rebuild Part 1

[@limtc1733]

Finally. A proper English speaking mechanic so that I don’t have to strain trying to comprehend. 👍🏼👍🏼

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Eyup lad theres reet gud o tha t'sayso. Ta fur thee neece comment

[@Geeb62]

I notice the 2 little pins, which are the very first task on the rebuild, are firmly fixed into their positions on my case and also slightly worn looking, they don't really stand proud like yours in the video. Any clues on how to get them out and also where to get replacements. Thanks, could not have completed the strip down without these excellent videos

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Hi i think the only way to get them out is with heat and replacements will be hard to locate. But you could try the companies listed at the beginning of my video "It lives" studio.kzbin.info6OnKLtXZng4/edit

[@bdillworth88]

Around the 6:00 mark, you mention the oil seal. Mine snapped off some how. Do I need to split the cases now? Or can I just replace that seal from the side cover?

[@harryendawypknightly7291]

Could you please help. How did you determine which new shells you required for the crank and the con rods ? Ive tried to research this and know about the code on the crank case, i have no colours or numbers on the the shells and don’t really understand the table given in either of my 2 manuals. Thanks in anticipation Ken Lucas

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Use plastiguage without shells. Plenty of vids. Or Consult d-mengineering.co.uk/index.php/services/engine-rebuilds who specialise in these engines and they tell you check that the components are not worn, and presumably you are happy they are OK or you would not be using the crank or conrods! and then use standard shells as modern oils don't need such a fine tolerance. I would drop them an email. to clarify.

[@kenfletcher4258]

Hi there great videos on the 400 4 engine did you paint the engine casings after bead blasting ? Regards Ken

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Yes painted with a Silver VHT paint supplied by David Silver Spares. The one with the orange label

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Hi if you mean the one that goes on the end of the gear shat bad news I would think. The seal has a built in locating dowel to hold it in to the casing, I don't think there would be a way to get the old one out fully and no way of getting the new one in as far as I can tell. Good luck.

[@bdillworth88]

Too Old To Die Young thanks for your reply, I just rebuilt the top end this year, now I have have to tear it back down! I’m crying! Looks like the dowel section is still in the hole so I might try to jb weld it hahah, worth a shot!? Also it’s on a cb500 four. A little different dowel

[@GersonMontero666]

Ya man good Job , cheers from Brazil !!! I see your strip and rebuild videos about 400f amazing videos !!!

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

No problem.

[@Andeks1]

Great series of videos, thanks a lot !

[@buckwheat7424]

have you had pretty good results with the ne gasket sets? i got a question about greasing the seal cavities, like the kickstarter and the clutch pushrod lever, do you grease the back side if so what grease do you use or just oil it? it doesn't look like they get much circulation at least the clutch seal. i'm slightly nervous about it. so i just oil it, tape the splines and put it on. thanks

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Hi I did not use oil grease in these areas as they gave seals or dont require them. The engine is oil tight. Good luck

[@buckwheat7424]

@@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle thanks a lot. pretty cool tutorials.

[@martinmotyka1926]

Any idea how similar this is to a 1979 cb400? bottom half looks very similar, would be ideal if they didnt change it much

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Sorry I dont know the answer to that but knowing Honda they do tend to use a tried and tested approach to subsequent models. Try one of the forums there is usually someone who knows specifics like your.

[@peterfisher1916]

Hi how do you pck bearing size for mains and bigends whats the go with the colour codes?

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

I had the engineering done at a specialist 400 4 builders. They did the rebore based on the oversized pistons supplied by David Silver Spares. The main bearings were supplied by David silver spares too as the company who did the machine work checked the crank for wear. The coloured system means you use plastiguage which compresses when you assemble (look it up on you tube if you have never used it.) you can then measure the plastiguage and see what the clearance is and choose the shells to match. There are videos on this but it means assembling then dismantling again. The specialist also suggested that with modern oils, as long as the crank and small ends are not too worn then they use the standard shells and bearings with no issues, D&M Engineering.co.uk is the company . They supplied all the parts for the engine build but sourced them from David Silver spares. Hope that helps.

[@michaellyons2783]

hi thanks great video ive got my engine to rebuild on1977 cb400f2 witch ive owned since 1982 were did you get crankcase repaired. barrel fin repaired. shot blasted any other service i might need keep up the good work many thanks

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

All the engine work was done inc blasting (next door to D&M) David Silver spares for all the bits. D&M Engineering .co.uk Newark Dave 01623 870921

[@josegualotuna2687]

Buenos días mi amigo Puedes ayudarme con el detalle del armado del conjunto de embrague de la honda cb 400f Por favor

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Sorry I dont have a video on that process.

[@skylerbrunner]

Is it necessary to apply anti seize to the bolts inside the crankcase holding the chain guide and gear as seen at 7:12

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

I hope not as I did not do that. If it makes you more comfortable then it is probably a good idea to use thread lock on assembly.

[@TheHiteniyer]

Your cases look immaculate- what process was used to get them in that pristine condition?

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

The cases were media blasted with very fine beads at a local specialist. Cleaning the beads out of all the nooks & crannies & the threads was a total b**ch. Used a combination of WD40 & engine oil to force the internal threads clean with new stainless steel bolts.

[@jt54]

Hi. Thanks for the video. Towards the rebuild of my own I am looking at what to purchase and already got the complete set of engine gaskets plus the oil gasket set but I hear today from you that there are others not included. I wasn't able to catch the name of those at 0:46 and 1:06. My request to you: could you please write their bame here please so I don't miss them during my purchase at davidsilverparts. Thank you a so much

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

HI the two O rings at 46 are parts 282 and 283 part numbers 91314220000 and 91315044000 the one at 1.06 is part 272 part number 91207 333 000 if you don't have a parts list send you email and I will send you a copy. Regards G

[@jt54]

Thank you very much for your answer. Very helpful. Bye.

[@GersonMontero666]

nice videos bro . i wait more videos of rebuilding sorey for my english !!!!

[@Observercool]

Hello. Where are you found a manual which you use for engine assembly?

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

Hi combination of looking at my strip down videos and the Haynes Manual.

[@Observercool]

Thank you

[@keithdonohoe1360]

Hey man, thanks for posting these videos, they've been enormously helpful. Have you ever had to rip into the starter clutch on these small SOHC Fours?

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

No sorry never done that.

[@gaskan666]

You never put oil on the back side of a con rod bearing!!!!! The bearing has to fit perfect. that little film of oil could cause play in it after you tighten it to spec.. This will result in a engine knock.

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

There is a groove in the con rod for any oil and the oil is a synthetic motor oil suitable for assembly. I took advice from the leading 400 4 specialist engine builder who builds and racers these engines but all comments are welcome.

[@toooldtodieyoungmotorcyle]

I was really interested in this comment as I have never heard of this before. Intrigued I decided to follow it up a bit more. I worked for TOTAL and Ato Fina for about 22 years admittedly not in lubrication but asked dome of my old colleagues their opinion. Bearing (no pun intended) in mind that they work with race teams and major engine manufacturers the consensus of opinion was that a light smear was recommended for assembly and dry joints were never advised for big or little ends. So an interesting and worthwhile comment but open to differing opinions I guess.

[@kerostunt5250]

Possible add Arabic translation

[@GersonMontero666]

sorry