Honda AC compressor clutch air gap fix

Chapter Markers:
00:00 - Introduction
00:48 - Background and Overview of the Problem
04:12 - Skip the background info and jump right into "The Fix"
08:34 - The Final Test
A quick video showing how to fix an a/c compressor clutch that is either slipping, intermittently, or not engaging when the HVAC system tries to engage the clutch. This procedure is nearly identical to service other makes and models of cars as the belt-driven a/c compressor designs are fundamentally the same. Always check the electrical components such as wiring and relays first followed by verification of the levels first BEFORE attempting this repair.
A/C compressor clutch gap is set from the factory and is designed to ensure the electromagnet on the drive pulley can properly actuate and deactivate the clutch as needed. Over time, as the clutch wears that the air gap INCREASES. This results in the electromagnet not having quite enough "pull" to bring the clutch in resulting in inconsistent a/c operation. Honda a/c clutches typically call for a 0.050mm +/- 0.015 mm variance. Anything that falls outside this gap range will result in a clutch that won't engage or one that won't release.

[@jkcctube]

Excellent presentation, thank you!

[@jrambassn6758]

Great and informative! keep up the good work. I've seen KZbinrs with 1,000,000 followers who don't cut to the chase as you do!

[@piercedasian]

I appreciate that!

[@donniev8181]

​@@piercedasianthanks bro, im getting ready to do this on my 03 Accord. Where did you get the gap specs for your compressor clutch? Im wondering if the gap is the same on mine or if the compressor is bigger on the Accords? Thanks

[@fiveseven15]

Saved me a good chunk of money and time! Had same issue!

[@polydactyl7758]

Beautiful video

[@karatmojica]

I've learned a lot just by watching your video. I went to the Honda Dealer and they charged my for replacing the AC clutch but after several months still problem with my AC not getting cold. Took my vehicle to another auto repair shop and they said that Honda should have known the condesor was leaking.

[@piercedasian]

ah that's crappy to hear. Condenser leaks are quite common given how thin they are and where they're placed on the car. Literally exposed to ever bug and rock on the road that hits your front bumper.

[@wrfarms9741]

Nice job! Had something similar to this problem on my 2012 Honda Pilot Touring. The clutch rebuild kit cost as much as the entire compressor assembly so I just had the compressor replaced. I later found a Honda OEM clutch rebuild kit for a LOT less money on eBay and got it for any potential future repairs.

[@piercedasian]

thanks! Yes, I actually came across this fix in my dream when I couldn't figure out why this civic's a/c would work on cooler days and then not work on the hot days. While I'm clearly not the person that invented this fix that this was the first time I ever did this. Since the making of this video I've actually fixed 4 more a/c's that had intermittent functionality.

[@wrfarms9741]

@@piercedasian I will definitely keep this in mind for future reference. This was what was probably wrong with my compressor. Now I have to figure out why the damper motor inside the dash of my 2012 Honda Pilot Touring decides not to function in really hot weather but works in cooler weather or each time I schedule it with my repair guy to take a look at it. LOL!

[@axenz1]

Thanks for the nice tips 👍👍👍👍

[@piercedasian]

No problem 👍

[@user-xl3bb6jm7r]

The car dealership I got my from put a new AC compressor on mine. A 1 /12 ago. I used it once. Am really not into the air conditioning cause I just roll my windows down. I don’t like a lot of air. Bad on my body. Great video

[@jsr3793]

It's BLAZING hot in Canada. (Laughing in Phoenix Arizona in July)

[@PaoloFrancesco99]

Thanks for posting this! I'm having intermittent problems with the clutch engaging on a 2011 Honda CRV, but the AC is cold when it does work. I already replaced the relay and checked refrigerant level. The clutch engaged after giving it a whack (while the car was not running), so I suspect it's on the edge like yours was. And the problem occurs on the hottest of days, which is consistent with the large gap theory. Hotter temps might cause just enough expansion to grow the gap and prevent engagement. Now I'll look for a shim kit. One could also patiently file down the shim already installed if removing it closes the gap too much.

[@piercedasian]

Yes that is exactly it. On your CRV you won't be able to get the clutch plate off the compressor shaft but you can get it out enough to SNIP the shim in half to remove it. The side frame rail is too close to the compressor to get the plate off. If there are 2 shims then just remove one and retry. If there is only 1 shim then get rid of it. Honda's compressor supplier offers a generous range for clutch air gap so you won't need to buy a shim kit. Just axe and problems solved.

[@PaoloFrancesco99]

@@piercedasianThanks for the reply. Yes, I already tried to get to the plate and found exactly what you stated. It doesn't come off because of the tight space. I failed to find any shim in there at all, but maybe I didn't poke and look hard enough. It's a tough angle on the CRV. However, I tightened it back up well and it's been working. Summer is just about over, so I'll have to see what happens next year when it's really hot again. I also learned how to charge my system in my attempts to troubleshoot, and that made my CRV a much cooler car - temperature, that is!

[@calvinmack206]

Great video

[@piercedasian]

Thanks!

[@Luger718A1]

I'm tempted to try this after the relay, fuse we're good and thermal switch bypass didn't help. It's a 2011 crv though and reaching the clutch is a bit harder since there is a reservoir in the way by the wheel well

[@aznnp77]

Thanks. I had read about this on civic forums, but it's much, much easier watching someone actually do it. I wonder if there's a way to hold that plate in place without getting that tool. I know with some stuff you can just put a ratchet on a socket on it, then place the handle against the ground which will prevent it from moving when you try to turn it. Perhaps maybe a ratchet with a socket hex adapter in one of those holes?

[@piercedasian]

I replied to your other posts but it sounds like figured it out but nonetheless, thanks for stopping by!

[@mikesherman1870]

Hi I have dyslexia and I do work on vehicles, my fiancé is having the same problem and have ordered a new clutch assembly. I work better with pictures to replace this and your video helped me out but I would like a picture of the .05 feeler gauge so I can buy one Thank you

[@piercedasian]

if you look on google "feeler gauge" you'll find plenty of images that show what it looks like. Literally looks like a super thin metal finger.

[@derekwilson8011]

I have a 97 CRV my power steering pump has been leaking could that fluid cause the clutch to slip on this AC cuz everything else is working fine and there's freon in system

[@philwarner6604]

In the video you check the gap between .4mm and .5mm but in the text below it says "Honda a/c clutches typically call for a 0.050mm +/- 0.015 mm variance. Anything that falls outside this gap range will result in a clutch that won't engage or one that won't release." 0.050mm is equal to .002" which seems mighty close. I am trying to set the air gap on my 2010 Honda Odyssey Touring after replacing the coil and the clutch kit came with two .020" thick washers and the original washers were each .052" thick. The two thin washers on the new clutch hub and pulley cause them to lock together. What gap should I be trying to achieve?

[@Negativvv]

Say if the AC has stopped working entirely? The electric fans activate when the AC button is pressed but the compressor doesn't engage. As mine packed up suddenly a few weeks ago, still pressure in the system. Relay and fuses are ok. I can't get enough of a tap or turn on the compressor however the gap in the clutch is .80mm.

[@SmokingSuns]

Awesome video! My AC went out 4 days ago. One question, many KZbin videos seem to have a gap issue. In my case there is no gap at all, looks flush with the pulley and the clutch doesn’t spin at all. Would adding a spacer so there’s a little gap help? TIA

[@piercedasian]

the gap issue is created due to wear on the clutch. The gap over time, increases and therefore the electromagnet can't "catch". If the gap is non existent on your clutch then odds are the compressor is constantly running and not releasing. If you have no cooling then chances are you've lost refrigerant or the compressor has failed.

[@JohnnieIsBored]

What happens if it’s too tight and still doesn’t engage?

[@goofyGAguy]

Does anyone know the thickness of the factory shim?

[@aznnp77]

Okay, for those that don't have the 3 holes for the clutch holding tool, on mine the middle nut my shockingly loose. You can try just using your hand to hold the pulley in place, that might be enough. But if not, just hold the pulley with some regular old pliers with a 90 degreeish bend. Should come off easily.

[@piercedasian]

or you can jam a flat bladed screwdriver in the clutch to prevent it from rotating as well. The clutch holding tool obviously makes it easier but there are ways around it.

[@user-vt6yr9iz4v]

Thanks for this great video! Any idea how much a good mechanic would charge to do this work on my 2008 Honda Civic - opening up the clutch assembly, removing the shim, cleaning off the rotating parts and reassembling to the correct gap (per Honda specs)? I live in Mississauga and our local Honda dealer has balked at this fix - wouldn't recommend it - and prefers to install a new compressor or clutch and coil ($1600-1700 + tax)!! Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[@piercedasian]

I thought I replied to this but I'm having some issues with KZbin comments. This isn't hard to do on your own. Have you considered removing the shim yourself? Honda tech balk at this b/c they don't want "call backs" if things don't work right or the clutch is too far worn out. In the automotive repair industry they'd much rather replace all day long than to attempt at repairing b/c it costs them less time and less warranty risks. The fix is so easy (and approved by Honda) that you absolutely should save your money and do the fix on your own or if a shop did exactly as they're told shouldn't charge more than 30 minutes of labor to do this.

[@laurap1557]

Will this work on work on the 8th gen 2006-11 Civics as well? Is the clutch also accessible from behind the wheel well?

[@piercedasian]

almost all common automotive belt driven a/c compressor clutches work the same. So yes the fix would apply to the 8th gen civics too. I believe you can on the 8th gen. Ironically I'll be doing this clutch fix next week on an 06 Acura CSX.

[@aznnp77]

I got the car all ready to do this this morning. I rented the tool from autozone and everything. Then I look on the clutch, and it doesn't have 3 holes for the tool to go into. So I came back to confirm that yours had 3 very obvious holes, and it does. I've seen so many videos of people doing this and nobody has issues like mine. Sucks.

[@aznnp77]

Okay, so i basically just held the pully with a pair of pliers, but the bolt came off shockingly easily. I dunno if I even needed the pliers or even my hand to hold it in place. Did you mention how right that cover is against the the pulley now without the magnet? I tried to pry it off but I couldn't without reasonable force.

[@piercedasian]

Glad to hear you got your clutch off. Not quite sure what you mean by how tight the cover is against the pulley. Are you referring to the clutch plate that was mildly "stiff" to get off?

[@aznnp77]

@@piercedasian Yes, I put tad bit of pressure to pry it off, and it didn't budge. I was just trying to make sure that I put it on correctly, but I suppose the magnet did all the work for me. I put a little grease before replacing the clutch plate, but I doubt I'll ever need to take it off again. If the AC doesn't work after this, for whatever reason I need the whole compressor.

[@piercedasian]

Hopefully your AC continues to work properly :)

[@thomwigle2240]

Super video and helpful to have the explanation for why the problem occurs and why the fix works. Totally makes sense! My 2008 Civic has experienced exactly the same issue for a LONG time. Works fine at the Honda dealership but after driving for an hour or so in hot weather, AC stops working. Honda has not been able to fix it after multiple attempts. Changed relays, attempted to recharge refrigerant w/ dye etc etc. no luck. Then I sent them your video and they said they really would not recommend this and instead recommended that I have them replace either the clutch plate and coil (Honda brand, Cdn$1700 + tax) or aftermarket compressor that comes with clutch and coil ($1650. + tax). I insisted he quote me on your approach and he quoted $800 + tax. So I’m going to talk to an independent mechanic for another quote. Any idea how much a quality, independent mechanic would charge for the procedure you outline in the video? Thanks lots in advance ..

[@nameismetatoo4591]

I'm going to try this with my '09 Fit. On 90°F+ days the AC blows nice and cold for 5-20 minutes before stopping completely. Happens faster when idling or in stop-and go traffic, and I can often get it to engage if I coast down a hill for 10-20 seconds. It seems the air gap is just barely too big when the plate gets really hot and the metal expands, and cools just enough to engage when I coast. Hopefully there's at least 1 or 2 shims in there I can remove to buy myself another couple years of life out of this clutch.

[@timalice1794]

I have a 09 Fit as well and see similar issue. Ac stopped blowing cold air after couple minutes when it is too hot outside. Did you remove the shim(s) and did it solve the issue?

[@nameismetatoo4591]

@@timalice1794 Yes, I did it last fall and it's been working just great all year! I was sure that something was going to give this summer given the extreme heat, but so far no issues. I used the same tool as shown in the video, took me about 25 minutes. I wish you the best of luck getting yours fixed! One thing I'll mention is that I had already verified that the system was fully charged. It could be that your system is low on refrigerant and the low side pressure switch is preventing the compressor clutch from engaging. That said, removing the clutch shim(s) is pretty easy and there isn't really much of a downside. If it doesn't fix the issue then you can always put the shim back on. But if your car has high mileage then you're probably better off just leaving it without the shim anyway.

[@timalice1794]

@@nameismetatoo4591 Thanks for the quick reply! Much appreciated. I will work on it this weekend. Have a good week.

[@timalice1794]

@@nameismetatoo4591 Hi, I removed the washer this weekend and the AC compressor clutch stayed engaged and AC is blowing cold air! Finally after 2 years! However, the coldest temperature that is coming out of the vent is 59°F at 88°F outside temperature. How cold are you able to get inside your FIT? Below 59°F?

[@nameismetatoo4591]

@@timalice1794 Sounds like it needs more refrigerant. On an 88 degree day in direct sunlight, I'd expect somewhere around 40-49 degrees coming out of the vents. That being said, make sure you test it with the engine at about 2500 RPM. The compressor isn't working at its full capacity at idle RPM. I'd test it while driving to see if it gets any colder. If it still struggles to get below 50, then you probably need a recharge. Buy or rent a manifold gauge set, a can tap for self-sealing cans, and a can of R134a with no additives. Be absolutely sure it doesn't contain stop leak or oil, as those will contaminate the system. As for the recharging procedure, there are plenty of guides online. ChrisFix's video is pretty thorough.

[@ehku9886]

So, you don't put the shim back in there right? will this cause a major issue on a clutch system? Or in the future will it cause problem because of a shim remove?

[@piercedasian]

that is correct, on higher mileage cars the clutch is often quite worn thus creating a large air gap between the electro magnetic coil and clutch plate. The shim is to provide more clearance for the clutch to have room to disengage properly. The shims (sometimes there can be 2 under the clutch plate) need to be removed to close up that air gap so the magnet can catch the clutch when it needs it to turn on.

[@Joe-nw5lm]

Question… on any of the ones you fixed, did it sound bad without the shim in there? I just took mine out like this, cleaned it all up and it worked right away but sounded rough at the plate. Once i put the shim back on to try it again, with it being cleaned all out maybe this helped some clearance issues a little. It doesn’t have the rough sound, but it working too. Just not sure how long it’s going to last before not engaging again lol. Just stumped why the shim alone is without it is making it sound rough at that plate to pulley, once it’s back in it sounds fine. Hopefully the cleaning of the plate and inside will hold up for a while

[@raypalma8849]

About to try this fix on my honda civic. I did watch a video that showed that one can get shims of different thicknesses to suit the air gap.

[@piercedasian]

its probably sounding rough b/c the stator and the clutch surfaces aren't at the right gap. Too tight and it can scrape, too loose it can slip or not engage. IN my case, the clutch was so worn (375K + kms) that I could either choose to buy a new clutch plate or extend my compressor's existing parts a bit longer by getting rid of the shim. I did measure the clutch to stator clearance and was within spec. Remember my clutch worked fine when temps were cooler/milder but not on the SUPER hot days when metal expands to the point where the electromagnet just couldn't quite "catch" the clutch. Remeasure your clutch to stator gap and see if you fall within spec.

[@piercedasian]

You can definitely get shims of varying thickness but I'm not sure where you'd buy them from? Dealership perhaps?

[@cognac8297]

Did it stop blowing cold at the red lights and stuff .

[@piercedasian]

not so much at red lights but when it got super hot out such that the clutch gap expanded a tad beyond the maximum allowed spec which then causes the clutch to not engage. Heat expands metal and shockingly, enough to cause clearance issues. If you're not getting cold at red lights it COULD mean a few other things such as low refrigerant, slipping clutch (fixable by new clutch or this video mod) or your condenser fan could be bad too.

[@mienteroso]

Great Video! What's the name of the tool you bought on Amazon?

[@mienteroso]

Nevermind! I googled "clutch holding tool" haha

[@piercedasian]

It is an ac clutch holding tool but on a honda you legit can just jam a screwdriver into the clutch to prevent it from spinning. The little nut holding things together isn’t very tight at all

[@bryantaylor9388]

This clutch should have been replaced, You should never run an ac without a shim , also it shouldn’t have cycled that often. Otherwise everything else was good information.

[@piercedasian]

That isn't true at all. The clutch while I agree should be replaced when it's worn that there was still some life left in it where I didn't need to drop $100's to replace it. The shim spec is listed in the honda service manual. As long as one measures the gap and it falls within spec then I don't see why one MUST use a shim. The cycling is environmentally influenced. It is rarely humid where I am at so the compressors on our cars cycle often to prevent evaporator freeze up. The a/c on this car is surprisingly 100% original with the original charge (its our daily driver) and the a/c works perfectly albeit a bit squeaky b/c the clutch IS definitely wearing out. I figured that if I get 1-2 more years out of it then I can easily get a used clutch from a wrecked civic and install it and keep on trucking' along. Thanks for stopping by.

[@LuckyTown77]

Honda tech here...great video and accurate information. ​@@piercedasian