Honda Accord Timing Belt, Water Pump, Pulleys & Seals - (4 cyl. F series 2.3L)

[@lineartechbd1600]

This is an example of an excellent video; no babbling, no long introductions, no going off on tangents, no faces in the video, no lingering on non related stuff, good quick editing , correct information, efficient use of time. This is how all how to videos should be.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thank you! This is exactly how my partner and I wanted to present these automotive DIY videos! No fluff and wasting your time.

[@MacroMicro99]

Nice! To tension the belt by the book after timing is set you need to turn the crank until the LH cam mark is off by 3 teeth. This is where the belt is properly tensioned. You then tighten the tensioner bolt. Next turn the cranck counterclockwise till your back to tdc and all your marks line up. Now you can tighten the tensioner arm bolt to hold timing while you do the balancer. You will have to loosen the tensioner bolt again anyway to to do the balance shaft belt because both pulleys share 1 stud. Doing this method assures there is no slack in the belt. If the belt has slack between the cam and crank that means the tensioner is experiencing an extreme amount of tension on the opposite side. This will cause premature failure of the bearing that is built into the tensioner.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good to know.

[@jsstrawder]

Loved the vid but this procedure is correct and it was obvious it was too tight in the start because of the belt whine.

[@trpeters67]

@@jsstrawder i stopped the video when i got to the belt tensioning part, glad to see someone mentioned the correct way to do the job. also happy to see the content creator was receptive.

[@TheCm900]

When turning the crank do you need to turn it clock wise or counter clockwise to get it to the 3 teeth offset your talking about?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Any direction.

[@moneymike2682]

who’s ever car this is, very lucky to have some one this knowledgeable and cares this much to do the job the right way not the white way the first time!! great job man, i wish you were my mechanic

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and appreciate your post!

[@petegeller380]

Excellent! As a recovering mechanic who recently bought a 2001 Accord it's nice to see someone who pays attention to CLEAN and detail. Very well done and a wonderful video too. Kudos for the high mass impact socket for crankshaft bolt removal too!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment! The impact driver along with some of my other electric ratchet tools definitely makes the job go faster and easier! Thanks for your support and please subscribe for notifications of new videos.

[@petegeller380]

@@hardlymovingpro you're very welcome! Thanks for the excellent video and subscribed. 😎👍

[@joeromang703]

Great video, great photography and great tips/professional techniques demonstrated. I've done this job before, and it is a pain to say the least. This is a great resource for anyone attempting to take on this procedure. Getting these details right will ensure your success. This is not a quick job, so allow plenty of time and replace all the wear parts, bearings, tensioners, water pump, crank, cam and valve cover seals. You don't want to do this job twice, so don't go cheap on quality parts and take your time ensuring all alignment marks are in the correct position and proper tension is applied to the belts, as he demonstrates. Thank you for making this video, very good work!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

All good advice and thanks for sharing!

[@joannea6592]

I have been watching this video for almost 2 years now and it has got me through alot! The way it is explained is just right for me and i have shared this video more times than i can tell. Thank you so much!😊

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnc7431]

What an excellent job. The video close up with excellent. And I have to say what an extremely lucky customer to have a mechanic to do such a good job very impressed. I just purchased a Honda with a bad water pump I will most definitely be watching this video more than once

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your critique!

[@jayesmith9413]

I watched this a million times before I did mine on my car. This video made this job a breeze 👍 completed the job in about 2 hours

[@hardlymovingpro]

Great news and thanks for sharing!

[@CHodeslol]

Love it. Replacing my crank position sensor, timing belt, and the seals this weekend. Seemed daunting at first but now its looking a lot more feasible

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're right .... Take it one step at a time.

[@dannyle0903]

This guy is one of the best mechanic men i have ever seen!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@ericcruz7407]

I was looking for a video about a leak under my Honda accord, ended watching this, I’m gonna subscribe 💪😎 I didn’t learn how to fix the leak though 😭😂

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for the sub!

[@donaldtate3372]

Audience, this gentleman did an excellent job on video and illustration. Well versed, detailed, and well knowledged...Thumbs up!!!!

[@MrKiet76]

Cameraman did a great job too!

[@hardlymovingpro]

I know. Without him there's no way the videos would come out this great.

[@luhuynh418]

It takes TWO to go through

[@francinepontry8233]

@@MrKiet76 pa

[@hvillalobos1317]

@@hardlymovingpro I have a big leak. ( add 2 quarters of engine oil and when I turn on the engine it empty inmmediately). Flow come out from bottom of engine timing belt cover. Can be a seal?

[@workenhard]

probably one of the most straight forward and to the point tutorials Ive ever seen. much thanks from back yard mechanics and shop techs alike!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and you bet!

[@mjaye6042]

Best description of Timing Belt, Water pump and Seals i've seen for this car, Out of 10 various example repair views, You are by far the best, No jokes, Straight forward, Extremely informative and accurate, In other words, Great job imo! Thank you so much, Was going to drop the car off this evening for to be repaired, Not any more, It's my job now,) Thanks again!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for you comments and the video critique!

[@deeshack79]

This is probably one of the most straightforward, in-depth, and detailed tutorials I’ve seen on the subject. And you did it all without taking an hour and a half on the video. Lol! Thank you for your hard work.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jp-ou5zn]

THANK YOU. A competent mechanic doing the timing belt kit as most of us MUST - without a lift or a garage.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@johnnywoods1023]

I just wanted to say that this is the best damn video on this subject that I have ever seen great work thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! When I took of the timing belt covers I had a "holy sht" moment!

[@ChR1St0p4eR]

Great editing, commentary, and close-ups with still frame shots. Awesome video. Thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@psmith1349]

Excellent video! I'm rebuilding one of these and I am way in over my head. You obviously know what you're doing. Kudos!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post!

[@erahelp]

Great video. You know you the bomb when you can do a timing belt job with one hand and the other is holding a camera

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your kind comment but my partner was holding the camera.

[@erahelp]

@@hardlymovingpro it was still a great video with still shots that looked professional grade. That was a really nice video. Must be a good camera or good experienced cameramen

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@erahelp Thanks but he's does all my editing too. This particular video was very difficult for him to produce. All the camera work was done using a LG smart phone. The digital cameras are too big and cumbersome to get into tight spaces.

[@TKcolinTK]

Perfect video for this. I followed along nearly exactly and finished up the job along with a new radiator and hoses while the cooling system was drained.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and thanks for sharing!

[@lawrenceberg826]

An odd thing happened during our test start. I think our test start was same as yours. Accessory belts off, valve cover resting on head, not bolted down. Harmonic balancer installed, engine covers off. Timing marks all hopefully ready to go. Engine fired right up and RPM soared upwards. I shut off right away. Tried again and same thing. RPM soared up. Since it seemed to run fine, everything was reinstalled. Engine started and ran normally. We did have the alternator off the engine. I don't know why the engine did what it did. Great video, thank you very much. It really helped. I think the worst part of the whole thing was dealing with a splash cover with ears chewed off.

[@hardlymovingpro]

When you start the car with the alternator off, the car is running off the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the car will run for around 30 minutes without the alternator.

[@scc9306]

Did you have the throttle cable in a bind where you moved it off of the valve cover?

[@hardlymovingpro]

No ... Why?

[@guslauzon2513]

Thanks. Best video I've seen on how to replace timing belt and seals on these Honda engines. Great quality videos. Well lit. Well edited and captioned. Great work. This will make my job much easier.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... good luck with the repair!

[@v.loveslaughter1968]

Boy, I just got a 92 accord for $400 which needs a water pump ..now I see why it was so cheap...this is an. Involved job...

[@hardlymovingpro]

But do-able with patience.

[@hardlyworkin3603]

Great video. Filming is perfect and so clear. Now I know why it costs so much for a mechanic to do this. I could watch this a hundred times, but my old brain could not remember all the technical details involved. Not to mention , there is a lot less room to work on a 2.3 liter in a Honda Odyssey than there is in an Accord. But this is the only video for a 2.3 liter. Great work. I'm done. No way I can do this. Tine to search for a really great Honda tech.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comments!

[@elgatogordo9523]

Nice! You brought the Accord back to life! Glad no valves were damaged. I heard these are interference engines.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes ... I was lucky the valves weren't damaged. It was just a slipped/jumped belt problem.

[@73amx63]

We had to pay particular attention to how the tensioners were adjusted! Went back a few times and understood it!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yea ... it's a little bit tricky. Don't want the belt too tight or too loose. Mostly seen previous installs where it was too loose.

[@miriamvivo4279]

Great camera work. Just finished same setup on sunday on 1995 honda odyssey with 300,000 miles . Debating on replacing the idlers, tensilners and aisin water pump. New dayco timing belt the rest was replaced at 138,000 miles back. Plan on keeping the van no more than 6 months to a year. Had bent valves do to snapped timing belt on hwy. Took for a 3 mile test run all seems good

[@hardlymovingpro]

Hey ... glad things worked out for you!

[@amnmk3]

I have Honda Odyssey which has same engine. I did it for the first time, and have done successfully! Thank you and it helps so much!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Great to hear and thanks for sharing! Keep up the good work!

[@erroldillon1548]

The Best video on the internet to do this job!!! You’re a professional by every standard. You’ve explained everything and the video is right on. Most videos are not lite well and you can’t figure out what’s going on. Your tutorial is #1.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and support!

[@timothythomas2685]

Gotta get the same thing done to my 93 Accord EX. Bought it from a guy supposedly replaced the head gasket but paid no attention to this area of the motor smh.. thankfully I have a buddy of mine willing to help out who is experienced since he has previously owned some Civics

[@hardlymovingpro]

Let us know how it turns out!

[@allanfranco4464]

VERY GOOD VIDEO THATS THE WAY I LIKE TO SEE PEOPLE EXPLAIN AWESOME THANKS FOR SHARING

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@repeatagain1789]

Sir best video thus far I've watched a few and yours is 1st place no yackidy yack I've needed to put new seals and you demonstrated how easy job can be. Then running motor verifying belt tension perfect thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and support!

[@watcher05er]

Hands down to you. The best ever video for timing belt replacement. I subscribed.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and glad you liked it!

[@arnulfogonzalez3627]

Thank you …I thought my motor was shot due to balance shaft belt breaking.. thank you .

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@skiphardstuff7444]

Best exact demonstrate ever to information for the complex made to seemingly look simple

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@a49er4life]

Video helped so much, some reason crank sprocket won’t go back on. Hopefully grease helps tomorrow, slid off so easily it’s hard to believe it won’t budge now

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be your woodruff key. Remove the key, slide on the sprocket, align sprocket with key grooves then install the key.

[@a49er4life]

Key isn’t the problem, it just won’t slide over for some reason. Teeth aren’t damaged, some grease should do the trick

[@a49er4life]

@@hardlymovingpro the lube did not help, nothing was damaged during the process. Even went back on no problem as a test earlier but now as I’m wrapping up the job the crank sprocket will just not slide on, I don’t understand why

[@hardlymovingpro]

Try wire brushing the contact surfaces of any coorosion

[@a49er4life]

@@hardlymovingpro well nothing is working, I don’t understand what happened. Appreciate your help

[@jordysandino6577]

Thank you so much sir for taking your time and helps us out . I appreciate it very much. God bless you b other and continue given you knowledge. So you can help others. God bless America

[@hardlymovingpro]

You are very welcome!

[@damoneverett6860]

Ok video with the exception of some important details. The spring for tensioner works fine. When you have the timing and balancer belt in correct position, loosen the tensioner nut and turn the crank to the left 3 teeth then tighten the nut. Also you left out a critical step in aligning your balancer sprocket.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I learned the hard way that with fixed spring tension timing belt systems to start the engine and let the belt seat in. Most of the time the belt loosens up after I start the engine. Next time I'll try your 3 cogs to the left method, start the engine and see if the belt hasn't lost it's tension. Let me know when you have a video on this service ... always looking for a better way to do a job.

[@damoneverett6860]

@@hardlymovingpro No videos. I do appreciate people that make them. I'm all about DIY. I hardly see any 4 cyl accords with belts come into the shop anymore. They are all chains since 03. Thank goodness for VTC actuators keeping me busy. ;)

[@hardlymovingpro]

There's still late model cars with belts. Honda with their V6's and Volvo with their I5. Just did a TB / WP job a 2004 Volvo I5 2.5L Turbo. The cam sprockets are variable oil pressure controlled. Not too much out there explaining how to replace the cam seals without disturbing the cam's position relative to the crank ... had to figure it out on my own. GM's V6 timing chain(s) barely last over 150K miles before it stretches. Around 10 hrs of work to replace the chain, guides and tensioners. I still prefer doing belts to chains.

[@draco751]

You used a "timing mark" on the rear balancing shaft sprocket. The correct way to do this is to use the access port in the back of the block to align the shaft correctly. There is a 3:1 gear ratio on that rear balancing shaft sprocket. This is from Honda's service manual for this car. May be worth adding this info to the video desc to save someone from unbalancing the block. It's small but noticable at low idle when it vibrates everything.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Had tried to use the access port in the back to lock the balance shaft sprocket from moving to mount the belt but didn't work out for me. The balance shaft sprocket would continue to move.

[@draco751]

@@hardlymovingpro Ouch, sounds like a bigger problem then. The two gears behind that sprocket are accessable at least, on occasion the seal behind that gear housing will leak as well. Most kits don't include that seal though unfortunately.

[@MacroMicro99]

Where can you find the bolt that will thread into the balance shaft through the access port? Is it one of those dig through the bolt bin type of bolts or can you get a specific one somewhere

[@draco751]

@@MacroMicro99 The bolt that opens the passage way is just a cover, you can simply take that out and use a screwdriver in there to lock the balance shaft in place.

[@salvadorsepulveda6415]

The details in your videos are excellent !! Blessings !!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and appreciate your post!

[@Chrisdog310]

Dayum I wish I can do this job in 20 mins like this video here 🤣🤣

[@hardlymovingpro]

The wonders of video editing with 2X to 5X speed.

[@chev2rcr900]

Great tutorial. Exactly what I’m dealing with. Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@slimmm723]

I have this same engine,. Thanks for making this video. I have followed other videos you have made with great success. I take pictures and label everything with colored tape.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Great post and thanks for your support!

[@joeasbury974]

Nice video! I like to run the engine also before I put it back together. On this engine since nothing is really holding that balancer pulley on the crank, I temporarily put the harmonic balancer and bolt on. Don't really want that thing flying off.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Right on!

[@whatwhale5888]

After watching, I realized this shit is way above my pay grade lol. But if I were braver and more experienced, this is the vid I would use to guide me.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@robertsanchez3271]

Thank you for this informative and very well made video. Very impressive keep up the excellent work.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks, will do!

[@alvarorojasrodriguez2236]

Excelente Maestro, usted es un mago

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@Anthony-oj5rb]

Most excellent vid. Even better than Erik the car guy.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... we try to put out quality videos and not waste your time.

[@thelenzperspective8297]

Good work man, I like your cam seal removal tool

[@hardlymovingpro]

Makes the job go easier

[@treydaypnw]

Excellent Excellent video! Very professional and detailed. Thank You for sharing your knowledge sir, It's very much appreciated!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Really appreciate your comment and support!

[@vicentearras1485]

Ya he visto videos del tiempo del honda motor 2.3 pero este esta exelente gracias

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@tails300]

Im glad my last and current car has timing chains.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Actually, I do timing chain replacements too. More time consuming and the replacement parts cost a lot more.

[@tails300]

Hardly Moving Productions that’s cool I’ve never needed a timing chain replaced, but thanks anyway.

[@maxodorestant9053]

You are one of a kind your videos always give great details. With all of your knowledge you just need Jesus and you should be fine.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and appreciate your support!

[@martinkoche4375]

Very well done frank and too the point thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@bobbofly]

How lucky did this guy get at not completely lunching one or all of his valves? LOL!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Your right ... Just a belt jump problem to fix.

[@elvisream3322]

Thank you this is the best video for what I needed good job

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@CAepicreviews]

Nice video. Only question I have is why you had used dielectric grease to lubricate the seals as you put them in rather than engine oil.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Petroleum based lubricants can cause rubber components to swell . Silicone (dielectric) lubes on rubber will not swell.

[@CAepicreviews]

@@hardlymovingpro I mean I get that but won't they be in contact with engine oil anyway? I only really know if dielectric grease being used for preventing corrosion in the ignition system (where the spark plugs connect in), so seeing it used for that was just a little odd to me.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@CAepicreviews Di-electric (aka plumber's grease) is another name for silicone grease. It has other properties in addition to being an electric insulator. Using a petro based grease may work in pushing in new seals but you may have difficulty getting them out (swelling) when they need to be replaced. In addition, silicone grease remain on contact surfaces longer and are more resistant to heat when compared to petro grease.

[@sethshultis7395]

very helpful video man, thank you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@youngmechanic8016]

Thank you to you. I replaced timing belt 2001 Accord few days ago. Your video is the best I've seen to finish my job this time. But I have a question. How can I make sure P.S pump tension? Thanks in advance!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

You shouldn’t be able to twist the belt more or less than 45 degrees. If a new belt, even tighter. Or just enough so the belt doesn’t squeal with full steering wheel deflection. Thanks for your comment and support!

[@Veyron640]

That 10mm tensioner bolt, for the timing belt tensioner pulley.. You left it there.. loose like that? It wont come off? Threadlock?

[@hardlymovingpro]

It won't come off.

[@EightBallMechanics]

Great video thanks, I just do hope that you tightened the upper tensioner bolt because you didn’t show or say to tighten it, unless it’s supposed to be loose then sorry, just wondering before I try my car

[@hardlymovingpro]

Then tensioner bolt should be tighten.

[@alking4083]

Sweet motor to work on.. thank you 🐾🐾🐾🐾😎

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@yepo]

7:31 DO NOT USE A CHAIN VICE GRIP LIKE THIS VIDEO! I followed this and scarred up the timing cam gears. The gears are made of some soft metal (aluminum?). Use a camshaft gear pulley holding tool and insert into the sides while turning the bolt. Better yet, just loosen up the cam gear bolts before removing the timing belt so you don't have to wrestle with the gear position aligning to the top mark. I ended up having to place an order for 2x new ones.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment of concern ... but this is what most professional mechanics do to remove the "steel" camshaft pulley. There isn't a lot of torque involved in holding the pulley from moving while loosening the pulley bolt. Using the timing belt to prevent the cam from moving is not advised. It applies too much force and pressure on component bearings (like the water pump and pulleys).

[@nemrodbaterna5806]

Very instructive Thanks Hardly

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem and thanks for the feedback.

[@romanfisher1394]

Can you rotate the crankshaft freely just like you did with that top left balance shaft what I mean is rotate the crankshaft without the timing belt on or does the timing belt have to be on the crankshaft and camshaft to be turned

[@hardlymovingpro]

Never tried and don't think so if the engine is interference (meaning with any valves being open, one of the pistons will push against it).

[@donizetisouza3914]

Grato amigo por compartilhar teus conhecimentos e experiências, tuas dicas e ensinamentos muito vão me ajudar. Assistindo no Brasil em 23/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..

[@marcoantonioortegavilla8375]

Muy bien explicado tu vídeo saludos

[@rafaelcontreras8779]

Very good at explaining keep it up

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for liking!

[@JBUnlock]

Thanks for the video!!! This will be helpful for an upcoming TB+WaterPump and Seal job in the near future. What did you use to clean the area?? I saw you sprayed something and then blew it with air.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I used brake clean in a aerosol can to dissolve oil and grease then blow it off with compressed air. A lot of repair shops do this.

[@GO-zg7ox]

Nice! One question...it does not seem right to be able to hand install the oil seals. I would think they would leak. how is it they dont?

[@hardlymovingpro]

For whatever it's worth, it wasn't in that tight to begin with when I removed the old one.

[@Kfrog555]

I use just a little dish soap to lube the outside of the seal and grease on the inside. The Idea being the dish soap will dry out quick and the rubber from the seal will hold it in place.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Whatever works for you.

[@psmith1349]

Dude, I could learn a lot from you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... you can learn something new with every video!

[@mechanicshaficug9456]

Thanks alot for sharing this important information

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@johnferrari3984]

Hi, I would like to know if you really have to raise the valve cover to take off the top timing cover. thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes. The valve cover has a lip that rolls over the upper timing belt cover.

[@vermasean]

One of the best and thorough videos on car repair/maintenance! Obligatory Liked and Sub'd!!! 👍🔧

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and glad you liked it!

[@vermasean]

@@hardlymovingpro - I really liked the 'Freeze-Frame' and explanations; Very Helpful!!

[@Suhail.Khan-24]

nice video. Question...how do you check the tension, whats the benchmark tension for these balance belts ? surely there will be a set tension for the belt

[@hardlymovingpro]

Before putting on the upper and lower timing belt covers ... just start the car and look for excess belt movement. If there is, loosen the tensioner bolt and allow the tensioner spring to pull in the excess belt slack.

[@trungphan2550]

Great video! Thanks so much for sharing. Other than replacing the gasket seal, why do we need to remove the head-gasket?

[@hardlymovingpro]

You mean the valve cover gasket? Because once you break the seal loose to remove the valve cover, the old gasket tend to leak after reinstallation

[@lawrenceberg826]

After replacing timing and balancer belt, and water pump, now it looks like a small oil leak coming from where the wires exit the lower cover. We did not replace cam or crank seals, and did not remove the crank sensor. Any guess as to where the oil is coming from? I hate to think about opening it all back up again. thanks again,

[@hardlymovingpro]

Read cases of oil leak from the balance shaft pull seal. Oil leak can be coming from the vtec solenoid gasket attached to the engine block by the firewall. Easy acess if you remove the valve cover

[@LawnGardenFun]

I really appreciate this video. I see you had the car running without the covers on. I have an oil leak it appears to be coming from out of the bottom the timing cover. In your video it doesn’t appear that there is any oil or should be any oil within that timing cover.I know it’s very hard for you to say but would you have any guess on where my oil leak would be coming from? The leak is quite significant.

[@hardlymovingpro]

The other possible leak source may be from the VTEC / VVTI solenoid on the left rear side of the motor facing the firewall. Easy to service with the valve cover off. The rubber gasket shrinks and causes oil leaks.

[@steveabner]

If anyone follows this, the counterbalance shaft seal needs a retaining plate. Those seals like to blow out and dump all your engine oil on the ground. Maybe add that into your video to let people know.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good to know. Where do you get this 'retaining plate'? Seals usually blow out due to overfilling the crankcase with too much oil.

[@steveabner]

@@hardlymovingpro You can get them directly from honda. Or you can get a Dorman brand from any parts store. Dorman Part # 917-006

[@steveabner]

Heres the honda part numbers Retaining plate - 06923-P0A-306 Oil Seal - 91233-PT0-003

[@hardlymovingpro]

Ah ... I see what you mean and see it on Amazon. Thanks! I'll link it in the description.

[@ttv.snakez1x402]

Bruh this is why I don’t work on cars I thought I was a simple bolt to replace the pulley n he just did like 1000 steps ima stick to paying hundreds for a mechanic 😂

[@hardlymovingpro]

It is what it is.

[@Aqatsuki]

Really isnt taht much man you just taking bolts in and out and paying attention to detail very simple Especially with videos like this

[@alejandrovillegas9442]

I loved it, also I did too the distributor o ring, how much should I charge for doing it. Thank you Sr.

[@hardlymovingpro]

(6 hours labor x hourly labor rate) + parts cost

[@alejandrovillegas9442]

@@hardlymovingpro I really appreciated your time an knowledge once a gain thanks you Sr.

[@Manhotocu]

hi. your channel is very good. i'm also a car repairman. share your home repairing experience

[@soyeldiego4878]

Thanks for the great video and very informative instructions. I’ll be performing this project on my folks 98 Odyssey pretty soon. Now I’ll have some good knowledge and to purchase the special CS socket. Heard these bolts are are bear to remove with conventional tools.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes definitely the high mass impact socket will avoid a lot of frustration. Let me know how the job goes.

[@soyeldiego4878]

Hardly Moving Productions Purchased the Leslie CS socket and worked perfectly as advertised even with only 120 psi on my air compressor. Will start the project this weekend, keep you updated

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sounds good ... good luck!

[@bobbybenn8275]

Awesome job

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it and thanks for your post!

[@phorkit5717]

I have one of these in a 1999 accord leaking profusely from the lower cover. Previous owner had the water pump, timing belt, and seals redone. I'm thinking it's the cam seal as it only leaks when the engine is running. Is it possible to remove the cam gear/belt without pulling the lower assemblies off? Couldn't really tell how accessible the tensioner assembly is without removing the balancer belt. Very well done on the video by the way, should save us quite some time.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be your VTEC solenoid gasket. Here's the video that shows you how to fix it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXunZ4aChM5_a5I

[@phorkit5717]

@@hardlymovingpro It's definitely the cam seal, it's literally pouring out of the bottom cover. Can I pull the cam gear without having to pull the entire bottom belt assembly?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Maybe. From my recollection, the TB nut protrudes from the center of the bottom cover. So take off the top TB cover, loosen the TB nut, pull up on the TB from the camshaft to loosen the belt tension on the cam sprocket ... then torque down the TB nut. Then remove the cam sprocket to replace the seal. But personally, I'd remove the lower TB cover because I don't find it to be time consuming and a big deal.

[@accidentalnick1982]

Can you update the first link for the timing belt and water pump kit? It seems broken. I'm not finding anything good on Amazon myself. Looking for something that comes with the balancing belt and all the seals and gaskets too.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Updated with a vendor called "Domestic Gasket". Bought from them before and they make a good kit with the OEM Aisin water pump and Japanese brand called GMB for the bearings. Also comes with valve cover gasket and valve cover bolt gaskets.

[@accidentalnick1982]

@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much! Using all the partner links.

[@foresthilt9525]

What model chain wrench are you using for the Cam Sprocket? It looks like a good one!

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's a Irwin vice grip style chain strap wrench. It's listed in the "Parts & Specialty Tools" area in the video text description. But here's the link to the tool in Amazon: amzn.to/2HvQnXl

[@rosco420i8]

At the beginning of the video you said you were putting the engine to top dead center, and made the mark on it. How do you know where the mark is supposed to be? I just took mine off and didn't do any of that, will that be an issue for me later on? I looked the harmonic balancer over and couldn't see anything that would line up with that piece on the timing cover.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Had to get to TDC since the belt jumped and the engine was out of time

[@rosco420i8]

@@hardlymovingpro Right I get how you'd do that on the top pulley but I don't see what your lining up edith the plastic notch. Is there an alignment mark on the harmonic balancer?

[@danielnino3861]

So I have a 2000 accord , there is oil leaking from the bottom part of the timing cover , could it be pulley seal?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be the crankshaft output shaft seal.

[@Whopnpop]

Question , did the engine lower dude to removing the motor mount ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

don't understand your question?

[@Whopnpop]

@@hardlymovingpro sorry , maybe i should have asked ;; why did you place the jack under the engine? and what cause the engine to lower itself so that you had to jack it up?

[@realmrjing]

Great video. I learned so much. Two questions: What is the gasket that got removed at 7:55? Was it replaced later on? Second question is at 13:26 the front balancer shaft seal doesn't have a retainer. On some Hondas this seal is known to pop out and make an oil leak.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! At 7:55, it's seal for the dust cover removed to get to the camshaft seal. Not a critical part. Heard about the BS seal popping out. Never seen that problem. Maybe happens from rising blow by gas pressures by having too much oil in the crankcase.

[@omariwade8509]

Thought the beginning you kept saying dead center when referring to the camshaft and the top engine, can you elaborate on that?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Top Dead Center or (TDC) is when the number 1 cylinder piston is extended to the top of the engine block cylinder hole and is on its compression stroke.

[@Chrisdog310]

My props to u you earned a subscriber

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your support!

[@maximobautista9671]

Thanks. So what was the noise. How you find out was wrong?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Belt slapping against the belt cover.

[@oggarage3459]

Amazing video sir, am in the middle of doing this job on my son's 91 acura legend it needs a water pump, I hope I won't screw it up any tips will be very much appreciated.thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you attempting this job! If the new belt didn't come with painted cam and crank alignment marks, mark them on the old belt before removal then transcribe onto the new belt after removal. Will make the installation of the belt easier. Also, check that the cam and crank seals are not leaking ... better yet, considering the age of the car, just replace them. Even with a new belt, if oil gets on them, the belt may prematurely snap.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Also, you may want to view my video on the Acura TL / Honda Accord V6 timing belt job since you're dealing with a V6 timing belt replacement. Replacement technique should be similar. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4LblGCBbb1petE

[@oggarage3459]

@@hardlymovingpro Ok thank you I will watch it right now.

[@cpolinsky13]

What deep socket size and lenght (it looked longer then standard deep socket) did you use to remove stud bolt for engine mount?

[@hardlymovingpro]

All standard length for 1/2" or 3/8" socket types.

[@cpolinsky13]

@@hardlymovingpro thank you

[@eddiepearce5307]

Great video but this makes the dual cam job timing belt job I did look like replacing a battery. HOLY COW the is more complicated than Chinese Arithmetic

[@hardlymovingpro]

My feelings as well when I did it for the first time!

[@eliasdefairia9910]

Great work thank you very much

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem!

[@bbblahoo7]

Do you have to remove valve cover to change the water pump?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes and it's basically a time belt replacement job since the pump is driven by the belt.