Honda CB250N SuperDream. Diesel clean up (thanks guys)

[@katywalker8322]

While in pieces, certainly replace consumables. Cam chain certainly (they were not long lived!). Big end and main bearings probably

[@luddite6239]

Two steps forward, no steps back- result! If it were me, I'd still replace the cam chain as a matter of course. They're only £35 (pattern) from David Silver, which is a valuable treasure trove of parts for old Hondas.

[@rickconstant6106]

A good job with cleaning up the cases, but I would still suggest you remove the conrods from the crank so you can clean the parts and inspect the bearings - it only takes a few bits of grit to bugger up the bearing surfaces. Some of what you have washed off is bound to have ended up in the crankshaft oilways, and you can't clean those out thoroughly if the rods are still fitted. A bare crank, a good flush through with clean diesel/paraffin/degreaser and a good blow through with compressed air is the only way to be sure.

[@colinculverwell325]

Those oil filter bolts where a common problem on a lot of 70/80s Hondas. The hex head was too small and combined with the fact most owners didn't use a torque wrench (we just did everything up FT) led to the heads stripping before the bolt yielded. There were after market ones around at the time that had a bigger hex head, 17mm if memory serves. Dont know if they are still available?

[@luddite6239]

Yes, the 17mm-head filter bolts are still available for about £20 and are definitely a worthwhile investment.

[@stevesanelli90]

Matt is your mate Nat! Get the shit stirrer a slab of Red bulls & get him to bead blast the cases. Tape up all the mating surfaces, holes, threads, any orifice & pay him a visit & film it! Otherwise, it's looking fantastic! Keep it up! I'm guessing the shifter forks aren't coming out?

[@ianhorabin9763]

Take the casings to a "Soda" blaster as it's water based & washes away,or if there's a local engineering company,blag em to use there hot parts washer,chuck your bits in with there's & buy em a beer... always replace any seals& o rings for new,Never re- use agen..they will fail..ps u can use the Irwin's style extractors to free the selector shafts,never use an impact,then Clean the damaged ends on a linisher.Ian

[@sidwainhouse]

Get it as clean as you can. A lot of those cases had clear applied and is a bugger to get off without getting quite aggressive. Either blasting or chemical stripping. If there's a place near you that does alloy wheel refurbs they might dip it for you.

[@laurencehastings7473]

Pleased to see you are doing all the cleaning off the bike. I know it's a crap job but it's much easier off the bike than when it's reassembled. I think we all try to put things off when they're a bind but look at it this way. It needs cleaning either now or later, which is the easiest option?

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

Caustic soda* will have that bottom end "spotless" in no time. Media / soda / vapour blasting is probably the best solution for the outside of the engine cases, but it's an outside solution that's gonna be a bit pricey, and (a) it's a superdream and (b) it's a superdream. Also, it's a superdream, and it's probably not worth the money. Unless you're going to follow it up by anodising them purple**, which would be super fucking cool. But, and I may have mentioned this, it's a superdream. * Do not use caustic soda ** purple anodising is /the/ '80s colour.

[@ZafiraSteve]

8 th