Honda Fit GD3: Fit versus Fit at 2021 Gridlife NCM Sundae Cup with Stream Overlay

[@JustinMods]

Nice, looks like a ton of fun. Good run dude.

[@TrackDaysandTougeRuns]

Man this looks like soo much fun. If I can find one for the cheap I might consider getting one and keep the miles off the SI

[@RossomeSauce1]

I imagine prices are going to go up in line with fuel costs lately, but there are also other options like the Mazda 2, Ford Fiesta base, Toyota Yaris, and Mini Cooper base that can often be found cheaper than the Fit. That being said, I'd really recommend getting the money together for a 2nd gen GE Fit if it's within budget. They improved on the GD in pretty much every way, and the aftermarket support in the U.S. is superior in this regard as well.

[@Sk0die]

@@RossomeSauce1 don't go for the demio/ mazda 2, I work on mazdas for a living and have driven both mazda 2s and honda fits and the hondas are way way nicer to drive and alot quicker too.The Yaris and the fit are worth it

[@MUSSYBAKA]

09 fit sports look the best imo

[@Bruno-my9uf]

Racing DNA . !!!

[@tojotajahtaaja7896]

very nice been looking for a honda fit/jazz here in the eu. most civic i have near me are 300k+ kilometers and as expensive as a 200-220k driven jazz. also i really like how the gd3 jazz/fit looks when done right

[@RossomeSauce1]

They're really fun cars for sure! I actually bought a Fit because EF/EG/EK Civics were nearly twice as expensive as Fits around 2018. Good luck searching 👍

[@NicErdman]

I like the DIY F1 wheel.

[@RossomeSauce1]

Adding buttons for drink tube, brake bias, DRS, KERS, TCS, radio, and fuel mix will come at a later date lol. The displayed predicted lap time is so useful for knowing what lines are fastest, I wouldn't be nearly as fast without it.

[@CrazyCooneyRacing]

What app are you using and what is your phone mount? Thats a genius idea!

[@RossomeSauce1]

I made the phone mount by epoxying together a few sheets of 1/8" ABS plastic and then epoxying a phone case to THAT The app is RaceCapture, and is connected wirelessly to my RaceCapture MKII OBD-II via wifi. It also works with Bluetooth, but seems to be a bit more finicky in that mode 👍

[@JointMasterJ]

You're a good driver buddy. Wishing my GE8 was manual 😢 Do you think with a transmission cooler would help me?

[@RossomeSauce1]

I'm not sure if you'll have particularly bad transmission oil temperatures tbh (unless you've already measured it under high load), given that each track session is usually only 20-25 minutes long. None of the fluids run particularly hot in my MT model at least.

[@Bruno-my9uf]

Got to love y fits !!! Cheap funn funn !!!!!

[@lingrollz9622]

Need to get my fit on the track this year

[@RossomeSauce1]

If you've got any concerns or questions about preparing or driving it, definitely let me know and I'll be more than happy to at least point you in the right direction. If you want to DM me, I'm active on Instagram under @rossome.sauce if you don't already follow me there. Otherwise, or if you prefer, you can leave a comment on a video and I'll do the same 👍

[@jwrx7tt01]

@@RossomeSauce1 how do the rear drums hold up? Is it worth doing a disc conversion?

[@Lovely_planet]

@@RossomeSauce1 Massive inspiration. Do you have an email or discord? I don't use insta. Id like to start a dialogue with you friend!

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@jwrx7tt01 shoot, my bad, KZbin didn't give the notification. Drum brakes hold up fine, especially with the Porterfield RD-4 shoes I've got atm. They don't overheat, it just would be nice if they worked a bit harder, but it's not that big of a deal

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@Lovely_planet Hobbes#7458 on Discord. Definitely feel free to add and shoot a DM, I'll answer as best as I can

[@TougeTime]

is there somewhere i can buy your "Custom ABS Mounting Plate for Android Digital Dash">?Looks sweet

[@RossomeSauce1]

There is not... but I do have an STL file for a 3D printed version if you'd like to try that. Dimensions are in inches, let me know if this link doesn't work for you: drive.google.com/file/d/11GmIC37eRITtAB59FYn1OxQK-AvRXQna/view?usp=drivesdk

[@japan743]

Hello from France, nice video a lot of fun. Can you tell us what apllication you use to have rpm on your cellphone please? Regards

[@RossomeSauce1]

Yup! I have a RaceCapture MK2 plugged into my OBD-II port! The RaceCapture has a WiFi & Bluetooth signal that goes to a RaceCapture app on Android/Apple phones. I believe Hondata and KTuner have similar apps as well 👍

[@japan743]

@@RossomeSauce1 Thx you!

[@pikachu_gk5_visuals595]

Soon to be track Fit 😤

[@jolladevices]

0:23 amazing, few mods and it's racing very good. It's a 1.4L or the 1.2L? PS I have a CR-Z but I am needing a cargo car 😗

[@RossomeSauce1]

It's actually the 1.5L! It's the USDM-spec GD3, and it makes somewhere between 93-100 WHP depending on which DynoJet you ask lol The GE8 Fit is super similar to the CRZ because they share the same engine and a lot of the same suspension. I'd definitely recommend looking into either the GD3 or GE8 if you don't mind the low power output 🙃

[@jolladevices]

@@RossomeSauce1 yes. I am deciding between a GD or a GE Fit (Jazz), but there's a relatively price difference, with the GD way lower... There are major difference on the tuning parts between them? Also I read the GD engines have more low end torque, and knowing how the CR-Z 1.5 drive when the battery is discharged, I probably decided

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@jolladevices Virtually the same, but the GE (2nd gen) is the better car on paper. If both cars are the same price, there's a few reasons I'd choose the GE: 1) Stiffer rear torsion beam (via reinforcement) on the Sport trim GEs 2) Telescoping steering wheel on GEs. Tailored Chassis Solutions sells a 50mm OEM wheel extender for the GD (1st gen), but the GE basically has this from the factory. You need this if you are taller than the average Japanese citizen. 3) The 1.5L engine was an afterthought on the GD, as overseas, they initially came with a 1.3L and CVT. This shows very strongly in the GD's rear engine mount design, which to be blunt, is dogshit. It's a mount that requires you to effectively remove all three other engine/transmission mounts so that you can pivot the engine enough to undo the bolts for the rear mount. The GE's rear engine mount takes twenty minutes, and ten of those minutes are raising and lowering the car. 4) Aftermarket support is generally considered better on the GE. It's typically easier to find parts for it because it had a longer run in the U.S. vs the GD. The GD was only 2007-2008, whereas the GE was 2009-2013 and shared many parts with the CR-Z. 5) You get more power from the GE out of the box (GE 117 BHP vs GD 108 BHP) and it weighs only 50lb more (GE Curb 2,520lb vs GD Curb 2,471lb) 6) You get more cup holders in the GE There are two reasons to NOT buy a GE: 1) You can't get them without TPMS, whereas the 2007 GD did not have TPMS. The 2008 GD had TPMS. The only thing this affects is your TPMS light being visible on the dash, which can be fixed with electrical tape and a gauge cluster removal. 2) The GE has Vehicle Stability Assist to overcome, and pulling the fuse also disables ABS. VSA is defeatable using this guide for facelifted GEs (2012-2013), but I haven't heard whether it also works or is necessary for 2009-2011 models. Guide to disable here, written by Robert Rieker: torquesteersite.wordpress.com/.../ge-honda.../... Basically, both are equally competitive, and I'd buy a GE over a GD for the same price any day of the week. In reality, GEs are more expensive, so I'd realistically recommend buying a GE over a GD if the GE is no more than $2k-$3k over what GDs with similar mileage are going for in your area.

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@jolladevices The torque on the GE is also the same as the GD in the U.S. actually. The GE will definitely accelerate better though.

[@jolladevices]

@RossomeSauce what an answer! 👍 I have to say I will probably use the Fit mostly as daily with few bolt-on mod like intake (HKS already bought for CR-Z, compatible in case of GE6), exhaust terminal and lowering/spoiler :-) Locally I see the GD (1.2 or 1.4L) in the range 2k-4k euros, 200-280.000 km while the GE are in the 4k-up to 9k(!) euros, always 1.2/1.4L usually with less km like 150-230.000 km. Thanks anyway

[@Tmanstomp100]

bro see if there's a way you can increase the rev limit, I feel like theres still free power on the table even if it's only to 7200rpm it should do a little something

[@RossomeSauce1]

It's possible with Hondata FlashPro 👍 I believe it was either Spoon or J's Racing that ran a 7,200 RPM limit on their GD Fits. I'm definitely tempted to at the moment, but it's one of those things that I'm antsy about increasing.

[@Tmanstomp100]

@@RossomeSauce1 I feel you on that bro, but the 2009 fit increased the rev limit up to like 8k im just not sure if they changed anything inside the engine, im just wondering because i have the same car and similar mods

[@findtherightbeat]

What's the effect of removing the front swaybar with the GD? Also, how are the spring rates, do they give a neutral feel in corners? Thank you

[@RossomeSauce1]

Hey! Removing/disconnecting the front sway bar increases the oversteer characteristics at corner entry and mid-corner, and also improves the power-application ability for the open diff. When in a turn, the sway bar normally pulls up on the inside wheel, which doesn't occur when the sway bar is removed/DCed. Miata forums have some good information about it, as it's super popular to disconnect the rear sway bar for the same reason as far as power-application goes. The only main disadvantage is that you lose approximately 2kg/mm of side to side spring-rate as a result, so transitioning between tight corners (like esses) won't be as responsive. The spring rates, as well as the disconnected front sway bar and reverse-stagger tire compounds, definitely make the car oversteer a lot. Some corners it's neutral, and some it's very oversteery, but the bottom line is that it doesn't understeer at any corners, which was my objective. I will say that Sundae Cup is seeing 12k/12k and 14k/14k spring rates do very well, but I haven't had a chance to try these rates yet, although I will be upgrading this season on new coilovers. Hope this helps, let me know if you think of any other questions!

[@findtherightbeat]

@@RossomeSauce1 Thank you for the thorough response! I'm currently looking into the GD3 platform and haven't found much answers in the old forums. If you were to rank the modifications to be done on a weekend warrior road race/autocross GD3, how would you rank the following: -Close gear set and/or final drive -LSD -Engine management upgrade (Also, what are the reasonable options for the GD3? I've only seen Hondata Flashpro) -Engine internal upgrades (more aggressive camshaft, higher compression pistons, etc., not sure what options are available here) Edit: I'm thinking of having a good set of BC coilovers (probably revalved set if I progress), good tires and stainless steel brake lines as the primary modifications. Probably a good header with long primaries a good collector plus a good tune to start with for a little bit more power.

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@findtherightbeat The engine internal upgrades I would totally skip. Spoon Sports and J's Racing have had a couple good articles about their Fits (a GD and GK each) and both said they were having major issues trying to make power on the L15A with internals. For the remainder of the listed mods, I would do: 1. Engine Management Upgrade via Hondata FlashPro 2. Tighter Final Drive if you don't daily your car (it makes it veeeeery loud on the highway in 5th gear) 3. LSD, but this should be done at the same time as the gear set since the transmission will already be out of the car. If you're doing more autocross, I think I'd put gear ratios above the Hondata FlashPro, since the corners are tighter and can really use it. However, I would highly recommend splurging on suspension from Fortune Auto 510s or Redshift (re-valved BC DS-Types) above all else at 12k/12k rates ±2k front/rear depending on handling preference. Suspension, wheels, and tires have been shown to be the definitive mods in Sundae Cup competition, so I would really recommend putting your money into those three items as you described. 15x7.5+35 Konig wheels are really hot right now, since they're really inexpensive wheels that are just North of 12lb each.

[@findtherightbeat]

@@RossomeSauce1 Thanks, really appreciate your input! I was thinking about the Redshift units since they've had good success with the EF on their campaign and they've also helped Andy Hollis with his car eventually. Something I need to research more about is the MacPherson struts and the rear beam of the GD. In the previous years, my focus was on double wishbones of the 90's Hondas. Also, I hope you don't mind me asking what your alignment settings are for the track. Again, thank you!

[@findtherightbeat]

@@RossomeSauce1 Also, something I'd like to pick your brain on is a comment from RR98ITR of honda-tech on his GD: "If you were to bend the twist axle to get a static toe of zero or slightly out AND replace the bushings with heims, then the car would go from 9 to 10 on the fun scale" Is this something many GD enthusiasts do to their twist axles? From what I know, SE-R guys used to do this back in the day - I remember Mike Kojima mentioning a similar mod.

[@joeschmo61321]

Which of these mods would you recommend for just a daily driver?

[@RossomeSauce1]

I think if my car were to ONLY be a daily driver, I would recommend the following: Low Budget: Progress Rear Sway Bar Buddy Club or CheddasAuto short shifter Med Budget: 15x7.5+35 flow-forned wheels (Konig "gram" series) 205/50R15 tires within your budget High budget: 1-way digressive coilovers Hondata FlashPro with tune I would also recommend the Works Bell Hub and Steering Wheel if you would really like more leg space, but you will lose your airbag, so it's situational. The mods listed above, however, are all beneficial with minimal NVH penalty, so that's why I'd recommend for a daily driver.

[@joeschmo61321]

@@RossomeSauce1 Thanks dude!

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@joeschmo61321 The other thing I didn't include is picking up a pair of camber bolts (SPC and Moog) if you plan to do autocross or something. These will get you an extra degree or so of front camber, and get you significantly more cornering grip. The negative effect on tire wear is why I wouldn't quite do it for a car that only sees daily-duty, but it's really good if you get into doing autocross on occasion since they only cost $15-$30

[@antoniniotoni]

@@RossomeSauce1 what size rear sway bar do you recommend? also really appreciate what you do for the fit community.

[@dead_fox]

I used to own a fit, I don’t know why but at the time it seemed like a very ugly car, and I found it quite boring to drive, my friend did a few mods for me and we were going to install a body kit and do some other stuff but ultimately I sold it, and I also got a 96 mustang, I ended up hating that car as well, I accepted it because it was from a family member. Anyhow, this video made me miss my fit, and now I kind of regret selling it…

[@RossomeSauce1]

The look definitely grew on me after I got to drive my grandma's GE8 a few years ago lol. I don't blame you for not looking upon it highly at the time, because they were definitely not meant to be stand-out cars.

[@masterkc]

I got a gd3 and I always get looks from other Honda boys and car guys lol it's funny. It's definitely a sexy car when it's done right. A little pocket rocket.

[@皇極驚天拳第十代掌門]

How about cooling system

[@RossomeSauce1]

Cooling is completely stock 👍 No overheating issues at all

[@皇極驚天拳第十代掌門]

@@RossomeSauce1how about your suspension? Cause my gd3 is like hard to drive in cornering, always loose grip, like drifting all the time even with new tires. I am using BC racing coilover and shocks

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@皇極驚天拳第十代掌門 My suspension and wheel/tire mods are listed in the video description, but they are intended to make the car VERY loose/drifty. With just BC coilovers on your GD3, and tires with even front/rear tire pressure, your car should be understeery. If it slides/drifts, then you might be turning too much while braking? Hard to say...

[@Makmun859]

Sport

[@PhOeNiXpIoLe]

L15A1?

[@RossomeSauce1]

Yup! Dynoed at 97.6 WHP last year at 220k miles haha

[@PhOeNiXpIoLe]

@@RossomeSauce1 That is awesome! The L15A1 is a tough power plant, I have the same in my 2008 with 121K, if it ever quits I’ll probably do a K swap.

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@PhOeNiXpIoLe There's a guy with a white 2009 GE8 on FitFreak that had his L15A7 last 561k miles before it blew up at the very end of 2020. The best/worst part is that it happened because he followed a car ahead through a flooded street, so it hydro locked. Here's his build thread if you're interested in scrolling through it: www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-13/95731-400k-09-fit-build-thread.html His Fit dies on Page 15 The GE8 is generally a better platform for a k-swap than the GD3, but it's still fast as hell, and it didn't stop people like Ronald Type R lol

[@omer9572]

@@RossomeSauce1 should i get a GD OR GE?

[@RossomeSauce1]

@@omer9572 It depends! There are a couple reasons for going either direction. GDs are the simplest in that they don't have any form of traction control or stability control installed, and are generally found cheaper than GEs. 2007 has the added benefit of not having TPMS if you prefer to have a dashboard void of error lights, but 2007s were made in smaller quantities compared to 2008 GDs. Downside is that GDs are a bit slower than GEs even when modified (there is a GD vs GE lap at Road America on my channel if you want to see the straight line difference). GEs have stability control that you have to disable by bypassing the yaw sensor, but 2011+ facelifted GEs come with a telescoping steering wheel, which is a great help if you're on the taller side. I have the wheel in my GD extended for better arm positioning, but I have no airbag, and I've been unsuccessful in turning off the SRS light. There are a couple services (like replacing the rear motor mount) on the GE that are easier than the GD as well. Overall, I would buy a GE if it's within budget and you think you can follow a guide to disabling VSC by deleting the yaw rate sensor. Otherwise, GDs still handle great, and will be sufficiently quick for HPDE 👍

[@snilloc27]

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