Honda Goldwing Gl 1800 Front & Rear Brake Master Cylinder Flush/ Bleed

[@MatthewMcClellan]

Thanks for this, guys. What a completely bananas system.

[@n7hevn]

Apologies if I missed it, but your accuracy about the Front / Rear brakes, and the front calipers having the two bleeders, I never heard you properly describe that those are bound to the Front/Rear separately, and have to be bled by those brake levers.... Anyone who knows anything about Gold Wing's mechanical-operation, knows that the braking system front/rear is integrated.

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

You are right in the aspect that they are integrated meaning when I actuate the rear brake it does actually actuate pistons in the front what I was explaining is it is not actuate the same pistons at the front brake actuates they are on two completely different systems however they do work together that’s why you must bleed both separately

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

Also for Max breaking this is why you’d want to utilize the rear brake in conjunction with the front brake because then it actuates all the pistons at one time

[@bolakaram6246]

Welcome, I have a problem with the rear brakes. I expel all the air from inside the hoses and they seem to be fine, but in the morning the pedal is very weak or completely non-existent. I expel air from the front and rear outlets. What should I do?

[@soujrnr]

How do I shim the anti-dive so that I get weight transfer to the front tire during braking instead of level braking?

[@kiethlowry2862]

I had the problem sat for 2 years had front brakes no rear brakes. Watched the video flushed it now No front brakes but I have rock solid rear brakes and brake lights are stuck on. Any suggestions on fixing the brakes. I flushed them a second time to correct no luck

[@giantinside]

You may have a leak somewhere in the brake line.

[@kiethlowry2862]

Update. I had to rebuild the front master cylinder. And replace the brake sensor switch

[@goldwingconepatterns2565]

Don't forget about the recall for some years and the ST1300 may have had the recall too for the rear master cylinder. This may be the problem as the brakes can stick on like mine did on my ST. When I bought my wing they scheduled the recall work for a few months down the road. 2014 wing. 2012 ST.

[@gr7485]

If you don't mind my asking how is the rear reservoir cap removed? Twist it off like a jar lid or pry it off? Thank you.

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

It’s a twist , it’s a little tight area but it will come out

[@edwardkeaton4972]

What about the upper Left and lower right?

[@Williamchang23]

Rear brakes bleeding process requires front calipers to bleed from?

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

Yes

[@michaelhoare5291]

Yes. The 01-17 GL1800 has an utterly mental linked braking system which Honda evetually trimmed down on the 18+ model. On an 01-17, the front brake lever activates the upper and lower pistons on the front right and the centre piston on the front left, plus, and here is where it gets ridiculously complicated, the front brake lever also activates the upper and lower pistons on the rear brake and the anti-dive via the secondary master cyclinder (behind the front left fork), the proportioning conrol valve, and a delay valve. Furthermore, the linking is such that depending on how hard the front lever is applied , tyhe front lever has the potential to activate all 9 pistons although I'd imagin in normal use this is unlikely. The rear brake pedal activates the centre rear piston and, via the delay valve, the centre front right poston and the upper and lower front left pistons. And, via the secondary master cylinder, the anti-dive, and via the proportioning conrol valve, the upper and lower rear pistons. It's an insane system, I know because I've got a 2004. Top-tip: Shim the anti-dive which disables it and makes braking much more comfortable, especially down hill. Honda's theory is to keep the bike level under braking which is mad because you absolutely want weight thrown on to the front wheel for more grip!

[@johnjones8458]

What brake fluid do you use?

[@michaelhoare5291]

DOT 4

[@edwardkeaton4972]

32 combined or 16 oz total

[@Tommy-f5j]

Sad for supposedly being a tutorial video. So many steps were skipped in recording.

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

No there was not

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

We went front to rear by the book

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

What exactly could you add to the job ?

[@Tommy-f5j]

@@jamiejonesthecarman explain putting a tube into clean brake fluid and the other end onto the bleeder valve being bled and squeeze the lever or pump the pedal (slowly) numerous times until all the air is push out before closing the bleeder valves

[@Tommy-f5j]

I'm not being sarcastic or condescending but if I had no idea how to bleed brakes those videos would have been little or no help .Just my personal opinion.

[@340rps]

Nobody gravity bleeds anymore?

[@thomasgriffith3747]

Music is way too loud and very distracting. Also, can't hear some instructions because of the music

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

Sorry about that , we have addressed that in all future videos

[@HerreraCam]

This was confusing.

[@meandkathinkihei]

When I bought my 2010 I bought the factory mx manual. It’s a must, however, on Carl Salter website you can download the 2002 manual in PDF. It’s even searchable! I agree that there’s too much jabber and music. Also, it’s crucial to R&R brake fluid NLT every two years to prevent contamination causing the rear master cylinder (and possible the secondary master cylinder) pistons to stick. This was a 2015 ? Recall item.

[@meandkathinkihei]

Let me just add that it’s a linked system so applying rear brake gives you some front brake, even though it also goes through a delay valve. That manual will have great diagrams and it will make sense. Complicated system, but just know on those two front calipers you’re not only bleeding the top (lever) system, but the other two bleeders are for that rear system applying some front brake after a delay valve.