Honda Goldwing | Refurbish Rear Wheel 🛵

[@gailasay5457]

I am continually amazed by the stuff you do!!!!!!

[@TomAsay64]

Same here!

[@MotorbikeGarage603]

That wheel turned out looking good. Im going through a 85 goldwing right now and need to do my rear wheel this weekend. Mine has a lot more corrosion / pitting on it. Going to try emory cloth steel wool and scotchbrite pads first. If that dont work i may have to try some chemicals. Ive been watching your goldwing videos, definitely going to follow along. Cheers

[@TomAsay64]

Thank you! Just take your time cleaning up that wheel and have fun with it! I’m glad you like my videos!

[@blupupher]

Interesting way to do the rotor, but looks like it works well enough. I am guessing since you have a Valkyrie you know about the shaft service (splines, gear oil, drive shaft splines) that needs to be done on this bike as well? Should be easy with it torn apart like this.

[@TomAsay64]

Thank you for watching my video! In theory I should have taken them to a shop that had the right equipment and had them turned. For the rear brake I think how I did this is good enough. The front rotors I will either take them to a shop or modify my current process to produce a tighter tolerance. Yes, while I have the wheel removed I will perform the drive train maintenance.

[@TechnMoto]

I was wondering why cut the tire off?

[@TomAsay64]

I didn’t have the proper tools to remove the tire without possibly hurting the rim. I honestly thought it would be easier to cut than it actually was!!! Thanks for watching!

[@TechnMoto]

@@TomAsay64 I did something like that and learned the hard way tires are not easy to cut lol. Anyhow thanks for the reply.

[@TomAsay64]

@@TechnMoto I couldn’t believe how much of a pain it was!

[@seanburrow136]

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@johndickeson9194]

Tom have ever had a problem withe brakes after looks sanding them down.

[@TomAsay64]

You have to be very careful. Measure the thickness accurately around the whole disk to make sure the run-out is as little as possible. If the run-out is too large then you will get pulsing when braking. It can even lead to locking up the wheel if you brake hard enough. I recommend to take it somewhere to turn them with the proper machine, especially the front brakes! Thanks for watching!

[@manyakus8919]

How is the runout on the rotors after grinding them?

[@TomAsay64]

Thanks for watching my video! Rear Standard: 6.9 - 7.1mm (0.27 - 0.28in) Service limit: 6.0mm (0.24in) Mine ended up @ 0.26in which is good for me.

[@dancastillo27]

Lol…… there is no way that angle grinder technique worked🤣. I’m certain you are gonna get some “good vibrations” once you hit the road. I’m interested …please tell how it turned out.

[@TomAsay64]

Comedy, right! 🤪 The runout is surprisingly not bad but I am going to do one of two things. I'm not to concerned since it is only the rear wheel so I may just mount the grinder with a non-flexible disk on an adjustable bracket and true up the rotor more accurately. But most likely I will have it machined properly, because we are talking about a very important part of the bike! The front rotors will definitely be machined! I want the front to be solid and smooth. 🛵

[@JS-xi5nk]

I cringed when you took a grinder to the rotor. There has to be induced run out across the faces of the rotor from that kind of process. Maybe 30 to 50 thousanths. Maybe a wire wheel would have been better. But hey, to each their own. Looks good.

[@TomAsay64]

I hear ya! 😬 I may set up a rigid jig and remove some of the run out. I have measured it, and it's not too far out, but I may still take it in and let someone put it on the proper machine. The front are more important so I may just take them in to get done properly. Thanks for watching!