Honda H4514 Service & Rebuild

Hey All,
Did an entire tear down of this machine. Had some drive train issues, and after over 30 years needed a timing belt and water pump change. This is one tough built machine, and equally as tough to work on. I had a very steep learning curve on this one. Made this video documenting my progress. I hope it will help others when working on this model. Its a worthy machine to rebuild and fix. Many of the parts are still available from Honda, and the ones that are not can be had on the used market. A very sizable community on the various forums love these machines and keep them going.
The battery tray is not removable, unlike the 3813 which is bolted in. The 4514 you need to remove the entire pedestal assembly to get access to the rear of the engine should you want to avoid pulling the engine out of the frame rails.
I have seen some videos working on this machine where the person actually cuts the battery tray then rewelds it back in...DON'T DO THAT. I get trying to save time, but don't be lazy. Its tough enough finding parts for it plus you compromise the strength of the tray by doing that. It's pointless too really. I mean you can pull the cover back to peek at the timing belt condition, but you have no room to properly view the timing marks from the side, and you need to remove the flywheel to see the bottom crankshaft timing marks. Disassemble the machine right, don't be a hack.
Quick history lesson about these Honda mowers I learned. They were designed and built by Honda's motorcycle division. Often you find parts like cables and some of the engine parts can be crossed with some motorcycle models. Sadly though because of the high build quality, priced themselves out of the lawnmower market. They built some damn good machines.
I am available for questions as always, Check out my forum posts for more info!
Thank you all for watching! Please check out my Forum thread for more info below
www.mytractorf...

[@matweber81]

The rear main seal needs the molded ridge to properly seal. Trimming the ridge doesn’t work. I used the tractor last summer but had to keep an eye on the oil level and waited until the winter to replace. I just got done with the replacement of both oil seals and gaskets. I pulled the motor out without taking the steering pedestal off so workbench height makes things easier. This is a job that is not for faint of heart. I had to take everything off like I did when I replaced the water pump plus the camshaft pulley. I replaced the coils last winter so they were still good. The bottom half of the motor needs to be removed for replacement of the rear main seal and allows for easy replacement of the front seal. I ordered Honda’s Hondabond 4 gasket making sealant to seal the crankcase when putting it back together. The main bearing caps are molded into the bottom crankcase half so I didn’t go crazy with the gasket sealant and torqued the pan bolts according to amounts found online. After putting it together and replacing the pto clutch due to bearing failure I’m happy to report that it seems to be good. Left it run for over an hour with no issues and new pto clutch works great. Looking forward to grass growing season!

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Yeah actually this machine I'm getting back in the next couple weeks I will be replacing the PTO clutch as well it is original from 1989. I took it off a few years ago to inspect and it looked fine with normal wear but the clutch bearing is now starting to have problems

[@scottw6786]

Fantastic video, great information - Thanks for sharing! I have a H4514 I bought new in 1994, engine s/n 1008778, and have been looking for a new carb. The parts listings all indicate it needs 16100-ZA0-707 (BE27C A), which is no longer available. The -708 (BE27C B) was used for s/n 1218320 and later, but it is not listed as a "replacement" for the -707. Any idea if the -708 can be used on the older engines?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I beleive it can. Check mytractorforum in the honda section as many often put their tractors up for sale or parting them out

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I did a search on ebay, looks like many are available used. Seems many are using 16100-ZA0-L01 as a replacement regardless of the serial number. Cant imagine its that much different.

[@scottw6786]

@@Bassguitarist1985 Good info, thanks. I hadn't been able to find anyone saying they'd successfully used the new (-708, BE27C B) on the older engine (s/n

[@scottw6786]

Ok, I'm an idiot. :-) I have two "warranty reference" forms from when I purchased the mower new. Both have fields labeled "Frame No." and "Engine No." One has frame MZAS-300xxxx and Engine 125xxxx. The other says frame RZAZ-1008778 and Engine 1008778. Guess what.... That second form is for the grass catcher, and they just repeated the same s/n in the engine field (obviously it doesn't have an engine). I had mistaken that for the mower engine number.... But the first form is for the mower, and it shows engine # 125xxxx which means it uses the NEWER -708 carburetor that begins at 1218320. Genuine Honda -708 carb is only about $110, so I'm back in business!

[@boblee2094]

Hi Richard, great footage and the way you explained things all along, watched it three times, very informative and enjoyable. Thanks a lot! I was so inspired by your project, and I happened to spot an AD selling the exact same machine, so I bought it. It has a completely seized engine, but otherwise in pretty decent condition from what I can see. The previous owner did not know what the problem was, as he said. I started off by disengaging the PTO completely, as it was the easiest thing to do, but no luck, still frozen. Then I stripped the machine from the rare, as much as you did with yours, with the drive shaft still to be removed next, to disengage the transmission, which looks OK, but not sure if that is the one that is frozen. Any idea what I should look for and into next? Or any other tips which would be greatly appreciated.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Bob, removing the PTO and driveshaft disengages the engine from all external implements. if it still doesn't turn freely pull the timing belt cover and inspect the flywheel. if that is not binding at the ignition coils or the charge coils underneath it, then something internally with the engine has seized.

[@boblee2094]

@@Bassguitarist1985 Thanks, I have done just that but still totally seized. I am waiting a tool to pull the timing pulley, then I would be able to open the crankcase to see what is happening in there.

[@gordbaker896]

Do you have to remove the engine to change the Starter which is on the bottom of it? I notice there are 2 sets of timing marks on the Cam gear. Does it matter or do you simply not turn anything while replacing the belt? I inspected a 3813 Honda, a similar smaller model and decided the best way is to sell it! I believe it slipped a tooth or two. Going on Kijiji in Ontario in September 2020. What was the cost of the rebuild? $1,800? Very well done and well explained.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

It does not matter what T mark is used. Yes engine mount has to be removed to change starter, but not necessarily the whole engine. Support it from the bottom, remove the mount, swap the starter. Probably bad brushes.

[@gordbaker896]

@@Bassguitarist1985 Thank You. This one is spitting back thru the Carb. Ran great 2 weeks ago.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@gordbaker896 sounds like it slipped a tooth, and/or valve lash needs to be adjusted. The other issue could be a carb issue dumping too much fuel.

[@johnjaromack9530]

I’ve got a 1991 H4518. Subscribed.

[@richardgifford8953]

This has been so helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce this. I replaced the water pump and timing belt on my 4514.i started it today for the first time and it ran which is extremely satisfying. I do have a small issue, there is water dripping from the bottom of the engine and I believe this is from the new pump. I torqued the pump bolts to the correct setting but can't get the torque wrench onto the rear bolt (the one that's a pig to get to.) I did tighten it but am now thinking may not have been enough so will have another go tomorrow. Do you know of any way to get a torque wrench onto the bolt? Richard

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Have to slide the carb out of the way to get a u-joint in there. Make sure the mating surface is super clean with the new gasket. Old oring gaskets get hard and wont seal right

[@lawnmowerdude]

Very informative. I had to do the same repair regarding the timing belt as you but I opted to remove the engine. A new problem that has arised that I think you have addressed is the oil leaks. The mower managed to leaked much of its oil onto the floor of the shed over the winter. I think it might have a similar issues with the drain plug and the oil pump gasket.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thanks for sharing

[@julianmason2942]

Great video, I have this model. I have a screeching coming from somewhere around the radiator fan. I am going to try to remove the fan. Could it be the fan clutch?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

There is no clutch for the fan but there is a PTO clutch for the blade deck. Chances are if the clutch assembly has not been replaced since the late '80s then the bearings inside have worn out and that is what you are hearing. Unfortunately the bearings cannot be pressed out and replaced they are encapsulated. The entire clutch assembly would need to be replaced which is around $300 USD Plus the labor to install it

[@pascalfaure1481]

hello, your video is great. I have de same tractor. I have a problem with the starter, and I had changed the starter coals. Now the starter turns upside down. Do you know the root cause? That would be very helpful ! Thanks a lot

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Do you mean the starter spins backwards?

[@davidhorne2326]

I am in the process of doing much of the same. The head gasket was blown and had the head checked for warpage. The motor had overheated. Parts are extremely expensive and some are getting scarce. The service manual sometimes isn’t all inclusive. The rear tires are really pricey.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

yup pretty much anything for this machine is overpriced, but considering how much support I found for it It was not as bad as I initially thought. A similar built machine new today would easily fetch over $7K usd in my opinion Thank you for watching! I'll be working on a 3813 rebuild soon too!

[@davidhorne2326]

Bassguitarist1985 Honda pretty much priced themselves out of the market, even though they are great mowers. Let me know if you know of any rear tire sources or substitutions. Plano Power in Texas is another parts source.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@davidhorne2326 rear tires are 20x5x8.5-10 size. you can pickup a set of two tires for about $110 bucks on ebay shipped. Its a trailer tire pretty much, and the fronts are 15x6.00-6 which are standard for most mowers. Rear tires from Honda...easily $200 a tire!

[@ReadyUpGo]

Well done and extremely helpful. I looked on the tractor forum and probably missed it, but couldn’t understand in the 4514 video your suggestion for parts companies except for PartsTree. The other sounded like “Bolts…” or something. ?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Partstree for the parts diagrams, but i use boats.net in GA for honda oem parts

[@MasonHamlin93]

Thank you. I was just working on my 1993 4514 tonight. I have a knocking sound in the steering and it is down in the gear box and I figured it was the bushing. You mentioned you replaced them, but in the edit you didn't get a chance to film that part. I am wondering whether you can come from below with the deck off to replace the bushings in the steering box. But, on the other parts you were quite helpful. It has been a great machine in the 27 years I have had it and it has been used a lot.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Glad it helped. I would say it is possible to replace the bushings from the bottom, but the steering bushing where the steering rod is going to the wheel, you would need to remove the rod and wheel to change that one, and the plastic pedestal cover would need to be removed too. The foot plate would not need to come out though. It be tight, but possible

[@boblee2094]

Just a follow-up on my h4514 with a seized GX360k1, it turned out that the gear on the backside of the flywheel got deformed a little bit, somehow, that it touched the aluminum water pump housing, and consequently seized the engine totally. Kind of difficult to spot on, as they are virtually on top of each other, until one pulls the flywheel off. I will put the flywheel on a lathe to correct that tiny mini deformation. I do not know how this might have impacted the valves, or other parts internally inside the engine. I guess I will find out once I put everything back and run the engine again.

[@diannetewksbury8178]

I was hoping this video of your's would show how the clutch and clutch cable go back in, but it didn't. I'm sending this comment hoping to get your assistance... have noticed you do a lot of videos! My husband (who is a good mechanic, but not so good with computers) gas been trying to get our Honda 4514 clutch reinstalled. It seems to be in and working correctly but when he attaches the cable, it engages and disengages backwards. It engages when it should be disengaging and visa versa. We are at wits end. Can you help? Is it possible it's an electric problem? Thank you, dtewks

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Hey Dianne! Which clutch? The PTO clutch for the blade deck or the transaxle clutch for the wheels?

[@Fr4nkSanchez]

did you find a generic carburator? or do you use OEM? mine started surging I will try to clean it otherwise I need to find a carubrator

[@Bassguitarist1985]

No I used OEM. Getting harder to come by. It's the idle jet. Extremely small like an #82 micro drill size I think. Once you get that cleared up then the machine should run fine

[@ChristianOnCars]

Thanks for this video. I’m currently doing all of this and more on an old 4514! This has helped so so much. Are you sure that was in time before the belt change? The “T” tick mark looked off by a couple of teeth.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Yes it was in time. Camera angle likely made it look off time.

[@spee5810]

Very well put together.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thank you!

[@mutantsatellite]

Just got one of these for $700- and mows so nice! Yesterday I finished mowing and got a cloud of white smoke, hopefully its too much oil and not blown HG. Any ideas or videos on that?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

White smoke from the exhaust?

[@mutantsatellite]

@@Bassguitarist1985 yes! I noticed filter was grassy cleaned that let her cool down and then she started right up no smoke and drove her in the garage.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@mutantsatellite dirty air filter can make it puff black smoke as its running rich at that point. White smoke can be many things. Hard to say

[@benlenh1304]

belle video , ce sont de tres bonne machines , du costaud .. bravo.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thank you for watching!

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

I found it easier to just remove the engine, its really not all that difficult and that was my first time doing it, now that I've done it once, it will go much faster in the future if I ever need to remove on again.

[@gregpollsutube]

Great video, just getting ready to replace a clutch cable on mine. Any tips?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Take the fender deck off. Make it easier to get to

[@timbarnhart9327]

I'd do quite a bit of work to mine. The only thing left is the charging coil has the insulation coming off of it. I don't know if I have to replace it or not it was still charging. There's a lot of work and tearing one of these down

[@Bassguitarist1985]

For sure! Unfortunately their resale value even if all that hard work from the teardown is performed people simply don't want to pay for it unless you find a collector of sorts that really enjoy the machine and understand the build quality.

[@MrDavew402]

Any idea of when you will do the 3813 video ? Was looking for someone to touch on the carb & governer linkage adjustments/settings.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I just had the 3813 in for a radiator swap, but I will be doing the 4514 carb linkage and new carb swap in the future though!

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

I have this engine off the chassis. Do you think it is safe to bench test it breifly for about 1 minute with the radiator disconnected, or will it overheat that fast. Theirs still some coolant left in it after disconnecting it. I would like to be able to test it real quick and make sure it has spark, fires up and runs properly before I go putting it all back together. What do ya think?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

yeah but no longer than that I'd say. good call testing before reinstalling. its a pain to take the engine out.

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

@@Bassguitarist1985 Great, thank you.

[@timbarnhart9327]

I had to take mine totally apart in order to put rings in it. There was lots of pieces to put back together.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Oh yes its like a huge erector set!!

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

I'm working on one of these right now. I have the engine off. I need to get the flywheel off, but that knuckle that sits in front of the flywheel is still on. The 3 bolts are off, any tip on getting that knuckle off so I can pop the flywheel? Am I okay with a little force with a pry bar and hammer?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

that damper , just the three bolts hold it on. give it a quick whack and it should pop right off. Probably held in by rust

[@yhanicmauricette9698]

I was just viewing my timing belt because my mower wouldn’t start. And it seems like my belt has been breakihh away inside the timing belt case. Do you know if these engines are interference or non interference engines?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Non interference

[@yhanicmauricette9698]

@@Bassguitarist1985 thank you

[@Juanpablo-ou1fp]

I just got a 4514 but every time I release the parking break the engine shuts off. Any suggestions?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@Juanpablo-ou1fp def one of the safety switches is bad. Got to test them all.

[@russfouts6334]

Looks good. Mine needs the front damper on the drive shaft and i'm having trouble finding one. Do you have a source?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Boats.net

[@russfouts6334]

@@Bassguitarist1985 Looks like they are out of stock on that part. I think it is part # 40416-758-800? Did you get a new shaft since it was damaged or just reuse the old one? It looks like the shaft may no longer be available?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@russfouts6334 www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-Honda-40211-890-950-Propeller-Shaft-Damper-A-for-H4514-H4518H/264825614324 The part you need is 40211-890-950. Boats.net has it!

[@russfouts6334]

@@Bassguitarist1985 I believe that is the rear damper isn't it? I need the front one. Obviously would replace the rear one as well but the front one is the problem just like yours. I can't find the thing anywhere! Do you think they will will come out with new ones or is that it for the mower?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@russfouts6334 The dampers are the same for both the front and rear. you can use the part# I gave you.

[@matweber81]

I need to replace the rear main seal. There is a lip on the seal that goes on the inside, how did you get the front seal replaced without splitting the crankcase. From the pictures on a parts website it appears that the front seal is built the same as the rear.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I used a wood screw threaded into the sral and used it to pry the seal out. Then slid the new one.

[@matweber81]

I was finally able to get the rear main seal out but installation of the new one has not been a success. There is a ridge on the seal that fits into a groove so pressing the seal in is virtually impossible. Without splitting the crankcase. The outer coating on the new seal tore so I am ordering another new one. I'm thinking of cutting the lip off the seal that I get so I can press it in without tearing it.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@matweber81 yikes. Thank you for lwtting me know. I yearly service this 4514 and two other 3813s for this client. Should their ever be a need to change that I'll know that the case would need to be split!

[@matweber81]

Split the cash and dropping the crankshaft to slide the seal on. I'm going to try the trimming of the ridge trick first and see what happens. The tolerances are pretty tight and I'm thinking the ridge is overkill. I've replaced a number of seals in different motors that didn't have the ridge and I have not heard of any of them pushing out on their own. I'll let you my results.

[@matweber81]

One other question. The camshaft pulley has two separate timing marks (T) 180 degrees from each other. Do you know if either one is good to use

[@rummmy73]

Great work

[@bb-pw3cr]

use kinetix 30w w/zinc for the eng oil--add hyper lube for extra zinc in oil for the best protection--on a 10 to 20 hr oil change

[@FadedDreams12]

Does a Honda 4518 machine have a Thermostat ,and if so where ?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@FadedDreams12 different engine on the 4518. I assume yes it does have a thermostat

[@stanhuff6078]

can you tell me how to remove the starter is the bolts under the timing chain cover ?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I believe there is a mounting bolt underneath the cover but the mounting of the starter motor is also part of the motor mount itself. The engine would need to be pulled out of the frame in order to replace it

[@wildspirit7947]

I have one with a bad ignition coil. Is it easier to remove the cowl and sheetmetal or r & r the engine?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I have a medical condition so i couldnt lift the engine or own a hoist. Pulling the engine isn't as bad as it seems. Equal amount of work id say

[@barbaraannen8126]

@3:40 think mine is doing this as well

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

Well, I found the problem with mine. It was off by about 5 teeth and their was grass jammed into about 5 of the teeth on the pulley, that will do it.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Yikes! Thankfully these are not interference motors, but off by 5 teeth that would certainly make it run like shit.

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

@@Bassguitarist1985 I'm pretty sure it jumped it and it wouldn't start after that for him which is how it was left when I finally went and got it. Anyway, I fixed it all up and turned around and sold it for $1700, not bad at all. I found it to be pretty easy to work on, especially following the service manual. Pulling that motor wasn't that bad. That machine had a family of mice living in it when I got it, I must have easily killed 6 or 8 of them. Their main home was behind that belt cover. But they were able to run all over that machine with the way it was designed, out the cover down the drive shaft tunnel, up above the trans, lots of places to hide. Cleaning up after them wasn't fun, but it was worth it in the end.

[@scottcreevy5247]

I have a favor to ask. I have a 4514H, 38" mowing deck. I can't find the proper v-belt for the deck. Do you have access to that info. mower deck serial number is RZBA 1001179A

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Honda 76181-758-L00

[@Bassguitarist1985]

www.partstree.com/models/cd4538-c-sa-rzba-honda-38-mower-deck-made-in-japan-sn-rzba-1000001-rzba-9999999/blade-shaft-i-0/

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

Well, mine was smoking pretty bad, but it cleared up after some run time, so not exactly sure what was up, maybe oil got places it wasn't during removal and service of the engine. Anyway it came out great and its in real good shape, mechanically it wasn't beat on, so its gonna be mowing for ahwile still. Thanks for the helpful video heres mine complete. See video demonstration (copy and paste link) kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqLCgYiDoc6cY9U

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Cool video! The low idle the engine will rock a bit due to the firing pattern of a two cylinder. check the motor mounts make sure they are not worn. An unbalanced drive shaft or worn damper will cause the same symptoms.

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

@@Bassguitarist1985 I'm hoping to come across an 18hp version of it in the future. From what I saw their a little more complicated to work on than the 14 (13) was. But I enjoyed working on it, it was something different and definitely sharpened my skills further, different than a typical air cooled Tractor for sure.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@Mr_Tecumseh Yes the 5518. I will be working on one this fall. a guy a few towns over has one that he wants me to do a similar break down and rebuild. That one you definitely need to pull the engine I'm told...

[@Mr_Tecumseh]

@@Bassguitarist1985 Well, I didn't remove the entire chassis, but it seems like pulling the engine is faster and easier anyway. It wasn't very difficult, the service manual explained it step by step. Hood, radiator, fan, clutch, wiring, throttle cable, steering wheel, dash and 4 mounting bolts and it was out, it went fairly quick. Plus if you need to change your starter, thats the way you have to go. Its a good thing I did, because my starter was acting up and I almost had to replace it. Luckily I didn't have too. All I had to do was turn the main lead bolt and it started working fine again, which I found out after I removed the starter and began testing it, so something must have been making contact internally and it was shorting it out.

[@JTS_RC]

I got one that I'd be happy to let you work on.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I'm in the northeast united States

[@JTS_RC]

@@Bassguitarist1985 I'm in the northwest. Shipping would just be horrible. I saved this video and will reference it often. Thank you for a great video that touched on a lot of other issues that I need to tend to.