No Creosote Forever More

If You Want to eliminate Creosote forever here are three concepts you can use to get started more safely burning wood.
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[@duncanmarlow]

Agreed, the elimination of creosote is of itself a reason to adopt this technology. and so many more benefits remain!

[@planecrazyish]

Incredibly interesting!! I have learnt So much from this video. Had no idea that creosote was preventable and didn't even know chimney fires were a thing. Great video!

[@HoneyHollowHomestead]

Excellent information! I could almost present this video to my insurance company to promote the heater. I know you've sold me!

[@randystrand908]

HOW I WISH MY COLLEGE PROFESSORS HAD YOUR LEVEL OF KNOWLEDGE AND PASSION FOR THEIR SUBJECT MATTER!!! That was an incredible presentation... Thank you so much... Now that the holidays are winding down, I'm looking forward to my first build with your FOAM MATE which came in the mail a couple weeks back!

[@aliciamcnamar8203]

So Brilliantly Incredible!!!

[@joecliffordson]

Well sir sure appreciate the vid. I have a rocket mass heater that now has an interior flu. I wrote to comment that my rocket mass heater ran ok with no chimney. The draft tripled ( just a guess)when I hooked the six inch system up to a 15 foot vertical stove pipe with 12 foot insulated stainless on top. I found that the wind could overcome the heat pump effect without a nice tall stack. Since it burns so clean I figured the stove pipe could bleed more heat off the flu gas. The 13 foot mass still pushes 230f plus flu gas’s when it’s running hot. Enough to improve the draw as I forgot to make a good bell at the barrel transition. It’s been running 6 ox years. Your stove build is very well thought out. I kind of want to try a batch box.

[@dtaylz4me]

Great video with good info. You did your homework on that one.

[@thegreatfixer]

i am sooo glad you made this i have have been heating with wood for more then 25 years and when i started to see the emergence of "rocket stoves heaters" on youtube it confused me because (like you showed) they had NO Vertical Vent (i thing they were trying to show off and promote the Rocket Engine driving everything (maybe those ---------) were homesteading in a windless area where that (in theory can work) well needless to i stayed away RS for years (i do wish they would come clean and do what you are doing because despite their best efforts to promote RS and the incredible efficiency it kept me and many others away from RS and may have misled a lot of people) sorry for the rant but it needed to be said your aircrete chimney really for everyone with with a wood stove is perhaps the most important thing after being able to burn wood keep up the stellar work

[@alansach8437]

I run a brush down my chimney once a year. Get about two cups of loose ash out of it. About mid winter I do need to just knock collected ash off my chimney cap where it will collect in the little spark arrestor holes, but that's just knocking the chimney cap a couple times with a long stick. Never have an issue. Been doing this for thirty years. Our stove is a catalyst type (Blaze King). Very efficient and virtually no tarry creosote. Burn all pine, mostly dry, some less so.

[@magicdaveable]

Great Video Darwin.

[@LC-yw7yd]

This is sooo Awesome. Luv your videos

[@michaeltillman1147]

Thank you. I see that I have some studying ta do. 😎

[@Johnrider1234]

We have been burning wood for 40 years. Never had a chimney fire. Clean your chimney 3 times a year.

[@scottwilson9817]

Yelp

[@anaday11]

We are having them so much, I don't know what we are don't wrong?

[@zack9912000]

I clean mine once a month and do 2 really hot burns every two weeks

[@Hi-levels]

@@zack9912000 why hot burns?

[@HDDynalowrider]

I clean mine every two weeks

[@Only-one-life-68]

Thank you for your explanation From over the pond 🇬🇧

[@jeremiahharris5002]

As a sweep myself, I completely agree with your assessment. Keep up the study and good work. Though I do not agree with your methods of install I believe you have the right understanding to produce a more efficient system. Congrats on your projects.

[@jeremiahharris5002]

@Leslie B if you are reaching a continuous temperature of above 500°F in your stove then you should be getting secondary ignition and creating a cleaner burn. Less unburned carbon escaping the flue collar will always mean a cleaner chimney. Using softer woods is perfectly fine but may result in even more tar droplets that have to be burned as the natural moisture and oil(sap) content is higher. If you burn soft woods then be sure to season your wood twice as long before you burn them. Have your stove and flue swept before every season. If it is your primary source for heat in the winter then sweep it out 2 times per season.

[@dtaylz4me]

@@jeremiahharris5002 I believe the industry standard for cleaning a chimney is ⅛ inch soot/creosote accumulation. Inspection can only be achieved by frequent visual examination. As a retired chimney sweep, I once documented a brand new EPA listed stove and chimney installed to code requirements which had accumulated one+ inch of soot and glazed creosote in the flue after only 72 hours of use. He claimed the stove was smoking and was threatening lawsuit. The problem was the owner "occasionally" burned pieces of railroad tie. His regular firewood was fresh cut, unseasoned Douglas fir. Moral of the story: Burn only seasoned fuel, air dry for at least one year, naturally dry limb or split. Under normal conditions that should produce firewood with about 25% moisture content, which is supposedly the ideal moisture content for normal combustion in fireplaces or wood stoves. Dried lumber can contain considerably less moisture, which will cause the wood to ignite and burn too quickly for complete combustion, resulting in creosote accumulation, which will produce a fire hazard. Green wood contains too much moisture, which prevents adequate combustion temperatures and creates cooler flue temperatures. Additionally, NEVER burn treated or painted wood in your fireplace/stove/rocket stove. The air contamination it produces is known to have been the cause of severe medical issues.

[@jeremiahharris5002]

@@dtaylz4me I agree. Burning railroad ties is not wood anyone should be burning as the wood is soaked in creosote as a way of keeping it from rot since they are in contact with the ground and are completely exposed to the elements. Softer untreated wood can be burned when it has has enough time to season. You are correct on the moisture content being an issue on both ends of the scale. But despite dryer wood burning fast is does produce less smoke (tar droplets) which means less of a chance of having a creosote that is dark and shiny (3rd degree) and having a very powdery and almost light brown soot (1st degree) creosote. Most stoves and flue stacks, when burned properly will generally need sweeping once every 3-4 ricks of wood (1.5-2 cords). That is the rule of thumb in my area and industry standard is 1/8th inch. I have many clients who have managed, having proper burning habits, go as much as 3 or 4 cords between cleanings. Good install and proper burning yeild the best results for sure.

[@WorBlux]

The stove you show at 1:15 is insulated with firebrick and introduces secondary air in the top of the burn box. It burn very hot and clean at least compared to the open fireplaces you show.

[@michaelstarr5861]

1:14 I have the same woodstove burning year-old sawmill scraps, so I sweep the chimney twice a week and scrape the interior with a putty knife because it's so easy to reach. The thin layer of creosote rolls off the blade just like a half inch of wet snow rolls off of a snow shovel

[@JustLiving2018]

Hi just found your channel. I enjoyed the information. I subbed. Love your channel.

[@MrShakamuni01]

I have always had this idea with chimney caps to make them hinged. Have it fastened down with some solder wire enough to with stand winds. Then if a chimney fire happens it will melt the wire and blast the chimney cap open which will allow the column of fire to rise as high as possible away from the burnables on the house and also there will not be fire being pushed back down towards the box.. If you get rich off my idea remember me in your will. LOL.

[@danb340]

We have a stove that has a catalytic converter in a box that the gases must go through it works and saves wood immensely, when burning correctly if you go outside and look at the stove pipe there is virtually no smoke coming out, only if the draft is open or starting fires, or it's warmer outdoors, they should put these on all wood burning stoves, only a slight brushing once a year of the chimney is needed.

[@joecliffordson]

We have a hearthstone that uses ceramic over secondary air tubes instead of a converter. Works great and it was only 65 bucks to replace when I accidentally shoved to big of log in the stove and broke it.

[@mrc4912]

If it's just your flue cap that's clogged and it's beyond your reach or you want to avoid the danger of falling off your roof, you can do like I did and use a .22 cal pellet gun with an accurate scope to put a few shots on the screen which shakes off the creosote easily. I figure that I paid for my pellet rifle by not having to call out a professional to do the work. I couldn't use my stove until I did this process.

[@zp1191]

I got a 5 ft. pvc pipe and attached a wire brush to end to clean out the holes on the cap. Works like a charm.

[@GoneBattyBats]

You are on the right track. Sadly we lost too much due to storm damage to financially help. We may never be able to recover before the grave so I want to wish you all the best. Regards, Walter. a.k.a. Dusty Splinters

[@tibork3845]

That is sad ... didn't you guys have insurance on your house? My house is always insured with equal replacement value.

[@GoneBattyBats]

@@tibork3845 Yes, fully insured every sq ft as replacement. But, not against what they designated as "Surface Water" So 12" of water rushing across the road and into our buildings got us nothing. $).)). The FEMA came to our county and claimed that 339 buildings were damaged or destroyed and it wasn't bad enough to give us any aid. But right then... Hurricane Michael hit FL and they all left our county before anything could ever be done to help anyone. To add insult... PEMA our PA emergency people also did nothing.

[@tibork3845]

@@GoneBattyBats OMG! That is so sad! Very sorry for the loss you suffered. I never understood why insurance companies separate flood coverage from everything else, it causes the same damage as anything else. Coverage should be for damage and not for cause of damage. I also just paid off my house finally a year ago, I could not imagine losing it especially now and start all over again. Hope you guys continue fighting for any aid you can still get, maybe look for other agencies or organizations that help flood victims, sometimes even businesses give donations, it's a tax write off for them.

[@GoneBattyBats]

@@tibork3845 Thank you, We exhausted all possibility of help.

[@mikecosby7799]

Thank you, mike&gina in Tennessee, in love, in Christ. Great information, you and your family are an inspiration. What about a Natural Gas continuous water heater?

[@ericsumnicht7829]

Merry Christmas

[@edwineugeneeckerjr6335]

I have burned wood for 50 + years and have gained a lot of knowledge of the different verities of wood and the way they all burn at different rates under varying conditions i.e. (ambient air temp and moisture content,acceleration of air supplied,type AND size of fuel used. The one thing is constant is that under EVERY condition from kindling to fire extinguished there will be creosote produced somewhere within the combustion chamber and flue. My response to this scientific fact is to build a small fire to start any burn and develop a bed of coals before adding any large pieces to the burn. I have reduced my wood consumption (and increased efficiency)by almost half using this starting method along with inlet air regulating and velocity.

[@tomjeffersonwasright2288]

re Sonny A guy named Southern Prepper complained his stove used tons of fuel , burned it all rapidly, had to be stoked every 2 hours, and didn't heat his house. I have the same stove, and got efficient burn, and could still have heat after a good nights sleep. Despite his desire to advise the rest of us, he didn't understand stoves himself, and unknown to him, the entire damping mechanism was absent from his stove, hence the rapid, roaring burn, and all the heat going up the chimney. Forget a roaring fire. You get heat from a glowing bed of embers, with as little air flow as possible, with a nearly closed damper. I have heated with wood for over 4O years, tried a lot of theories, and finally understand what heats a home. You said -build a small fire to start any burn and develop a bed of coals before adding any large pieces to the burn-, I agree totally. I burn all kinds of wood except pine. I don't mind loading often during the day, burning junk wood, and save the good oak logs for at night.

[@danielfouardlibertarianono8017]

Alrighty then fellas I'm stuck in the middle of Kansas. When we're lucky enough to have oak and walnut ash we just don't cut them down. Especially for firewood. But we are fortunate enough to have an abundance of hedge (Osage Orange) and thorny locusts and elm of every variety and there are some that will even burn cotton wood but not me. The hedge is the hottest thing going and locusts are #2 in BTU per ton so it's plenty warm believe me! Anyway I build stoves shutting down the damper holds the heat down. So with the more space I have to heat the higher up on the flue I put the damper. I pull more radiant heat off the flue pipe that way.

[@morninglight7544]

Sonny Delano and Tom Jackson......thanks for sharing experience, for the new-bees! Any additional help would be appreciated.

[@randystrand908]

@Mark OnTheBlueRidge Thank you. I did not know this and I have tons of pine growing out the back door!!! After my build, I don't think creosote will be an issue anyway.

[@Only-one-life-68]

Mark OnTheBlueRidge I’m in 🇬🇧 I burn lots of pine wood Just cut and store under shelter for 12 months brilliant Once my fire is burning well I just add good sized lumps of pine on a very slow draw burns slow and loads of heat..

[@jeremiahharris5002]

I would recommend using 316 18ga. Stainless Steel alloy for the burn chamber. S.S. is able to maintain a Continuous Temp of over 2400°F without warping and because it stays hot and smooth you have low residence time and achieve secondary ignition for unburned carbon gases (tar dropplets). It might be more cost effective for your build instead of the non-water soluble calcium aluminate to form a molded chamber or tiles.

[@mommajefferson]

Hey there, I just found your channel. This is awesome! I need an air Crete chimney and window insert for my home. What do you charge for making and installing it?

[@redsquirrelftw]

With a normal wood stove, would it be a good idea to crank the damper wide open near the end of a burn? Like say you have a sensor at the chimney and when the temp drops below a certain point, you just open it wide open. My train of thought is it would prevent the smoldering phase when there is almost no fuel left and let it burn out a little faster.

[@tubularguynine]

Forrest Gump wasn't a smart man, but you ARE! Great video,Darwin! 👍🏻

[@fromanabe8639]

The problem with most fireplaces or stoves is uncontrolled air supply. If you control the air entering the combustion chamber there is little or no air to ignite any creosote that may be present. Our Kent fireplace insert has worked beautifully for about 40 years with no cleaning other than to remove ashes every two or three years. It has a stainless pipe chimney lining. The combustion chamber is 1/4" steel plate. It has an upper chamber that the gases must flow through before entering the chimney.

[@MTBXCSKI65]

I realize this reply is long overdue but maybe you have some ideas for me. I have been using a Kent Tile Fire woodstove since 1986 and have to clean it out about every 3 weeks due to creosote build-up. I dry my oak wood for 2 years before before burning it, yet I've had 3 chimney fires. My stove pipe & chimney are double walled. I don't what I'm doing wrong. Perhaps leaving the damper open a bit would help, but that's not what the literature for it says. Any ideas?

[@TubeSkaterRudy]

Can I make this for a medium size sauna? Maybe the heat remains inside and takes to long to warm up the rocks on top of the stove?

[@shielalong3612]

Will having the chimney pipe below the roof line cause daily Creosote build up at the end of the chimney?

[@victoryfirst2878]

What is the formula for making the NASA tiles that resist high heat ???? Thanks

[@andyh7668]

First from the UK

[@haresplitter]

A coal stoker is a lot less work and doesn't contaminate the chimney.

[@sandypidgeon4343]

I have a fireplace insert that is non-catalytic (Regency) but has the re-burner tubes at the top of the firebox. It reburns the smoke and gases and you get all the energy from the wood. It actually "bakes" the wood and you can see the methane coming out of the wood in a blue flame on the surface of the wood - pretty nice ambiance (which we thought we would lose, but it looks like a fire "waterfall" as the smoke/gas rolls forward, burns, and back into the fire) Creosote is negligible; however, you should clean it by a pro every year and have the bricks checked for cracks in the stove. It heats our 2000sqft house. ALWAYS use seasoned wood - 20% moisture or less. GOD Bless

[@martijnheeroma5492]

Burning it hot and clean is not a new story, have no problem hearing again, keep up the good work.

[@nustada]

Right but conventional stoves; even the "efficient ones" due to improper operation rarely get hot enough to burn cleanly. RMH on the other hand are difficult to get a bad burn as long as its built right; you would have to use soggy wood or something.

[@timhale501]

Granny goose burners. A friend designed and built food processing burners and hospital Bio-waste incinerators They had secondary hot combustion air tubes that brought heated air into a secondary combustion chamber. Very efficient and very clean burning. \

[@stashu5242]

Very good segment Honey Do. What was the brown dust and does it burn. Hope to help your efforts some day.

[@nustada]

Dust probably is minerals in the wood; not everything is combustible.

[@seoulkidd1]

A good draw is good for a rocket stove

[@maartenlaarhoven160]

So you used the same technology as stone pizza ovens?

[@tibork3845]

Also most chimney fires are from brick chimneys - as we can also see on these pictures - where the creosote can stick to easier. I have stainless chimney pipe, never creosote in it as it doesn't stick to it. The only part where there is a build up is at the very top inside the cap, I clean this couple of times a year to be sure. Great video, I wish I could have one of those rocket burners.

[@dhall5634]

All the thousands of stainless chimneys ive cleaned would disagree that creosote doesn't stick

[@tibork3845]

@@dhall5634 Interesting, running mine for 5 years now, never anything in mine, never cleaned it, regularly inspect it, shiny inside after 5 years of 5 month-long winters up north here and even running my wood burner on 1/3-1/2 setting most times so not even hot. I have the Duravent pipes. The only thing I need to do is open the cap on the bottom outside and everything falls out as dust. The only thing I do need to clean is the pipe inside the house which is not stainless, creosote does settle on those but never on the stainless chimney outside.

[@tibork3845]

​@@dhall5634 I've been thinking about this for the last few days, this statement actually makes me pretty proud that from the thousands of homeowners I am the only one who is doing it right, although I can't pinpoint a single thing what I am doing differently. I have a regular store bought wood stove, regular store bought 6 inch triple wall Duravent chimney pipes - 18 feet of it running up on the side of my house - I burn regular wood that I cut myself, nothing special, nothing custom, everything store bought and in the 5 years never a single thing in my entire stainless chimney, never had a brush or any cleaning tool in it, running it low 24/7 for about 5 months straight each year. Every time I open the bottom cap to dump the dust I always look up and it's all clean as a whistle all the way to the top (only top cap needs some cleaning). So I am pretty proud that from thousands of chimneys mine is the only one that always stays clean! I will tell this to the guys in our neighborhood who are also not using the stainless pipes and do have problems (even made a screen shot of your statement for proof).

[@discipleofyahuah3861]

Hi Darwin, I want to make a suggestion that may influence others as i know it will influence me and the level that I will support your kickstarter. I am looking at the Big George level mainly because I would like to have a large foam mate to play around with on some projects. I would suggest that you move the delivery up on the items that you already make, like the fire starter and recipe and the foam mate and recipes to say end of February. Thus we could be using the existing technology while you are working on the stove plans and development. I understand this will make a busy January and February for you, but what else do you have to do in the cold Idaho winter. ;-) Thanks, Wally

[@HoneyDoCarpenter]

I am planning on that very thing

[@patriciareynolds2729]

did the diagram show a horizontal pipe? we wouldnt have enuff draft unless the vent went almost straight up and out. would have smoke back in house.

[@martinschulz9381]

A p properly installed stove with good draft is important, but the most important thing of all is to burn quality well dried cord wood. These newer style stoves (love them or hate them) burn much cleaner than the older stoves. Very little deposits in my stove pipe, if any.

[@herbwheeler4470]

I used to stoke my wood stove to start a chimney fire on purpose. Let burn it's self out then run the chimney brush in it after I let the stove go out.

[@williamdavidson9009]

It would seem that burning hot like you are suggesting does reduce creosote and therefore other pollutants however EPA certified woodstoves are very airtight and burn much more slowly and if not used properly with dry wood will make creosote. My conclusion based on 50 years of wood burning in woodstoves and in a maple sugaring evaporator is that air is the key to a clean burn. In the evaporator we burn mainly pine sometimes as much as a cord a day with all the air it wants. The stove pipe has a little dust in it and there is maybe a small shovel full of ashes. It would be impractical for home heating because it needs constant tending but it does burn clean.

[@randystrand908]

I currently have a VERY EXPENSIVE pellet stove (given to me!); however, I do not like it. I can heat my home to the same temperatures with electricity and this (high end) pellet stove costs me the same amount of money with a whole lot more time effort to keep it running plus setting an alarm so the hopper doesn't run dry!

[@williamdavidson9009]

@@randystrand908 Too bad your pellet stove is a failure. Maybe you can pawn it off on someone else and get a woodstove that works for you.

[@TheCyberRebel]

Insulating the stove pipe all the way out to the vent cap on any stove will keep the creosote out of the chimney. I burn spruce and it can build up bad. My stove pipe in a 6" inside a 7" double wall insulated pipe. All I ever have in my stovepipe is ash.

[@randystrand908]

Impressive. Even without actual insulation! Yet I'm guessing that keeping the rising exhaust air even hotter/warmer will create a stronger pull than your double wall system...?

[@TheCyberRebel]

@@randystrand908 If I'm understanding you right, you're saying burn a hotter fire in the stove. For me, that burns through my wood to fast and requires me to get up twice a night to feed the stove. It also made my cabin too hot. When you choke the stove down to keep a long slow burn the chimney outside cools. Especially if it's below zero outside. Wind also seriously cools the chimney. Not only does the draft slow, but the flu gasses condensate and cause creosote. Before my modification, I had to clean my chimney once a month. Now I do it once a year. The creosote would leak out of my stovepipe down on top of my stove, dry up and catch fire.

[@joecliffordson]

@@TheCyberRebel the rocket mass heater is a different beast that solves all that trouble. If you can’t get one you may want to try hearthstone. I run both. The hearthstone is a 2 in thick stone that holds the heat and it also has clean burn technology that works really good. It does not overheat the space like steal because the heat is delivered more evenly. My primary home heater for 22 years. I did put a damper on mine although the company doesn’t recommend it. I like to hold that heat in the stove and it makes my stove burn warmer at -20f.

[@GrowinAlaska]

Living in Alaska and having heated with multiple rocket stove designs and wood stoves, all I can say is for practical year-round heating, get a Blaze King, King or Princess model. My King model would heat my 1400 sq ft house, in Bethel, for about 45 hours at 30 degrees and 18-20 hours when it was minus 30 and -80, -100 wind chill. There are other brands that are as efficient, when you run the stove on high but they all lose a lot of efficency when you turn down the heat, which is most of the time.

[@mike85364]

is your Fuel that caused Creosote build up. !!

[@jimorsheryl]

the quality of the fuel is where this issue starts. If you only burn well seasoned, dry wood of less than 20% moisture and don't run slow smoldering fires, this should never be an issue. Cleaning your chimney every season and using seasoned wood and hot fires pretty much eliminates the chimney fire risk. Of course using a quality airtight stove and not an open fireplace is the obvious first step.

[@oby-1607]

This is much the same as a gasification wood stove or boiler. The heat is so high that everything is burned with no waste. However in this case, there is no electricity required.

[@airbornranger879tt]

One thing I noticed in more than 50 years of burning wood is that moisture is a big factor in creosote production, rain and mist and also remember hot and cold mix creates water which turns smoke into creosote. Hot smoke and cold air make water. A horizontal stove pipe is a perfect collector of creosote. I have built several types of you tube rocket stoves and have discarded their ideas after a couple of years. If you don't have a air tight house you will lose heat quickly. Need a damper to shut off heat lose after wood burns down. Best Rocket stove I know is a box stove or whatever you have and clean stove pipes. Set the damper to ¾ open and the door open only about 3 inches and the house will be hotter than you can stand in just a few min. so load it light. I use a home made 36 inch weld pipe stacked double chamber stove. works better than anthing I have tried.

[@Memento-_-Mori-_-982]

Is this project still viable now or did it go the way of the Dodo?

[@augustreil]

Burned wood for 50 yrs, never had a chimney fire and only cleaned every 3yrs. Never a problem. Guess I was lucky.

[@marcleclair2261]

Not lucky , you problably burn seasoned wood .

[@dtaylz4me]

More likely you had small chimney fires of which you were unaware. The do happen and apparently are of insufficient temperature to cause damage. Very rare in my experience.

[@stupidloopinfinite4768]

Wish you could come do my stove pipe, lol.

[@pamcolechadwell1302]

My cousin's chimney was on fire I stopped and told him, he was inside his home watching a football game right next to his fireplace he didn't even know it was on fire till I told him he thought I was just joking him. It was smoking outside where the chimney came out of his house. Let me tell you there was a man that day was just stunned in shock!

[@izzzzzz6]

Looking at the creosote inside my chimney i'm tempted to remove the firewall from my stove and set light to the chimney to give it a real clean out. I have a metal roof and think i might get away with it. When i light my downstairs stove it starts streaming down and dripping back down from the flange that connects the metal stove pipe to the cement chimney. I thought i might remove the concrete blocks i put around one side of my chimney because on windy days it seemed to mess with the stoves. I didn't really have a creosote problem until i fitted a different stove downstairs and even that was working ok for a while. I just cleaned all around the flange plate thinking i would be ok for a while but as soon as i started the stove up it started dripping again.

[@dhall5634]

Did you survive?

[@izzzzzz6]

@@dhall5634 obviously I didn't risk a chimney fire in the end. I tried a tip given to me by locals, dry out a few kg if possible of potato peel. Light a good fire so your left with a decent pile of hot coals. place your dried skins on the hot embers and let them smoulder till gone. After this is done and cooled, then brush the chimney. One of my problems was condensation, I have not really seen any this winter. Trick is to have a clean chimney and keep the fire hot with plenty of air till you have a big core of hot coals. keeping the chimney warm by not leaving the fire off also helps. I planned to put a pellet stove in but I needed to move my gas boiler so I didn't get round to it yet. I have it right here, just need to do that plumbing. The stove is hot tonight. When I brush the chimney I remove the firewall from the stove then I drop a rope and shackle down from above. I then attach a brush from the inside of the stove close all vents and go back to the roof to pull the brush through. Once the soot has settles you can open up and clear any bends or shelves etc. Wear a good mask!

[@tonycash8544]

The SS liner being installed early in the video is upside down.

[@ravenrock67]

Research Starlite from 1940's

[@HartzHomestead]

Another advantage of a well insulated stove pipe that stays warm is that creosote in smoke will condense on cold surfaces much more readily than a hot surface, just like water vapor condenses on a cold surface but not a hot one. We have a brick fireplace with a metal heatilator around the firebox. The chimney has an air space between the brick and liner, which acts as an insulator. While it's not the most efficient system, I burn such hot fires that the metal of the ash cleanout warped, and we haven't cleaned our chimney ever, because there's no creosote buildup.

[@salimufari]

I gotta say while i like your findings I don't agree with the "they don't even have a chimney." statement. There is a chimney that is almost always above the firebox. One of the Permaculturists that I follow has used gravel in his bench once and found that a full solid mass was much better as a heat sink since the loose gravel has enough air in it to lose too much heat to work well. The same was found using packed sand for the same reason.

[@patriciareynolds2729]

the secret is dry wood and kind of wood. like oak, hickory, ash, etc.

[@danwells7691]

when my chim. builds up i put newspaper up the flue and let it go. sounds like a jet engine and sucks all the ash out of my stove

[@patcornwell9298]

Burn your house down burns at 1500 degrees! No big deal clean out your chimney.

[@1943L]

Just interested to know where the heat is given to the room. Insulated firebox and chimney I understand. Are there un insulted pipes between?

[@grumpygruntx]

Burning hot is great to keep the creosote out. But how efficient is it? If you have to load it with wood every 3 hours, it is worthless.

[@426superbee4]

I use bees wax for a fire starter > Reason? its free for use bk

[@lancerudy9934]

I want to burn one at my camp!

[@ravenrock67]

KZbinr NighthawkInLight has a video titled Fireproof material you can make in your kitchen. I recommend you check it out.

[@UtwoBed]

I am a bit confused. Stove pipes are metal and they are spaced well away from combustible materials. Do these creosote chimney fires burn so hot it can melt the steel pipe?

[@timhale501]

DRy wood close to a chimney can ignite at 400*. A hot chimney can radiate enough heat to start a fire several inches away. from the pipe. The 1 inch air space required in the building code is not enough for a super heated chimney fire,

[@UtwoBed]

@@timhale501 So in theory if there was nothing close enough to the pipe to ignite it would just burn itself out without causing any harm?

[@dtaylz4me]

@@UtwoBed Spalling from persistent overheating will produce holes in the metal. Minimum 36" clearance for single-wall pipe. Insulated metal chimneys will eventually fail.

[@patcornwell9298]

Yes

[@dhall5634]

@@dtaylz4me not to mention, get stainless hot enough and the chromium atoms will migrate, eventually causing the steel to be able to rust

[@Peasenas]

Chimney creosote is not produced by the carbon in the fuel. It is the volatile chemicals in the fuel that produces the creosote. Burning carbon can only produce carbon dioxide or carbon monoxide.

[@jeffreyschmiedeck4254]

I clean my every year at the cabin . I don’t live at the cabin year round.

[@panama-canada]

Never ever ever burn those in a masonry heater. Why? It’ll flake and detach creosote inside of smaller heating channels inside of your masonry heater and will clog them up.

[@Johnrider1234]

Chimtec chimney.

[@1coppertop]

I heard you say you were burning pine in a stove and throwing dogwood on will make it smoke. I would not burn pine in my stove ever. But that's just my opinion.

[@ravenrock67]

Correction: A Super-Material you can make in your kitchen

[@kennethkustren9381]

Well ... No you shouldn't try to boil the ACID WATER in your KITCHEN.

[@georgvonsauer2618]

Creosote come from incomplete combustion...people think that they are saving wood by starving oxygen...wrong! The unburnt gasses condense on the cooler chimney walls...burn hot, until the coal stage...do this every time you reload...the taller the chimney, the more important this becomes...a chimney fire is due to carelessness...I have an airtight stove and removed all the airtight seals on the doors and intakes...you want oxygen for complete combustion...I use to be a boiler tender at a sawmill and this is what I learned through experience...keep you chimney clean...it can eventually clog or become a fuel source with the creosote build up causing a chimney fire drying out the wood near the chimney and reaching the flash point of wood nearby and setting your house on fire!

[@426superbee4]

Some kinds of wood makes a lot of Creosote. Never burn pine in your fire place. I burn a red and white oak

[@WorBlux]

Unless you're exhaust is relatively cold, efficiency isn't going as good as it could be. If you're burn temp is 2,200 deg and the exhaust temp is 800, you're loosing 30% up the chimney. If you're cutting wood, that's a lot of work to send up the chimney And the new designs I've seen don't exhaust below the box anyways, but comes back to the stove and goes straight out the top of the building. That way the natural draft of a warm house and the extra kick of heat given by the barrel to the chimney insure the whole thing is under negative pressure. On the other hand by putting your chimney outside I would expect you to have some issues getting a draft started on bitterly cold days if the system is dead cold. Also as hot and clean as the stove is, it's likely burning up the CO as well as all the volitile carbon compounds.

[@HoneyDoCarpenter]

my stove exaust is between 120- 150 degrees, you can touch it bare handed. air crete insulated stove pipe makes it possible, stay tuned for the mechanics vid

[@WorBlux]

@@HoneyDoCarpenter So you've put a thermocouple in the cleanout elbow? I'd love to see video of it. Monitoring the temp of the gases throughout the stove is going to tell you a lot about effeciency and where the heat actually goes. Also have you dont material testing of your aircrete mix or is going to covered in the kickstarter? Either way I don't think you'll find an engineer who will stamp the drawing without knowing more about the material properties,, and knowing the R-value and heat capacity will be helpful when designing thermal masses made with it.

[@broganmoffet7173]

As a retired firefighter and wood stove user I have come to the conclusion that wood burning builds creosote. Avoid bends in your chimney pipe. Don't use 90 degree bends at all if possible and clean your chimney often. I clean mine once a month. Peace of mind is worth the extra work. 40 years of wood burning and no chimney fires.

[@benholler1389]

@@HoneyDoCarpenter is that inside or outside temps?

[@petermandel2552]

Your chimney doesn't need to look any where as bad as his photos to have a chimney fird.

[@stephenrocks7004]

How many educated men have tried to reinvent fire and explain how fire burns after millions of years cracks me up.

[@keystonecountryboy]

yeah burn coal and nothing but flyash in chimney which isnt flammable

[@littleriverfarm6920]

Yes they burn wood more efficiently. No they dont heat your house more efficiently. Because burning wood inefficiently heats your house longer. That's what causes the build up in your chimney. Reducing the air intake. Causes the wood to coal and smoulder. You use ten times as much wood in a winter heating your house with a rocket stove. And that amount of air going up the chimney has to draw the same amount of air in to the house from outside to feed it. It has to equal out.

[@HoneyDoCarpenter]

It heats any space more efficiently. the exhaust exits the stove pipe at 120 degrees the rest of the heat generated ends up in the shop, home , or space being heated.

[@littleriverfarm6920]

@@HoneyDoCarpenter ok, well I have a few questions then. If the rocket stove is working at full capacity a roaring away. How many cubic feet of air is being drawn up the chimney? If the intake for the rocket stove is not being drawn from the outside. Then cold air is being drawn in to the building from outside. Your house isn't airtight. And how are you supposed to sleep for eight hours? You can't sleep eight hours, a full load won't burn long enough. And are you saying that a rocket stove uses less wood than a wood heater with an intake you can reduce the air flow on? Because the same amount of wood I I burn in two hours in my rocket stove will burn for 12 hours in the wood heater in my house. So you'll have to explain how it heats a house more efficiently? Yes it burns wood more efficiently. But they do not heat a home, more efficiently. They use way to much fuel.

[@HDDynalowrider]

Ok, yes everyone knows a hot fire burns clean, but you cant run your stove wide open and keep a tolerable temp inside your house so people dial it back and have creosoye

[@michaelstarr5861]

8:34 and jet fuel burning at room temperature & pressure reaches 1,500° F. Hmmm

[@artystycznebudownictwo1229]

Like:)

[@stun9771]

Burning wood predominantly causes what you refer to as ‘creosote’, which is essentially the sticky vapour carried up your chimneys and results from poor heat of combustion in a wood fire...the main problem of this substance adhering to your chimneys, is related to the fact that most American homes are constructed of timber, and have a steel chimney to extract smoke from fires...which readily accept being coated by the sticky vapours produced and builds up in the inside of metal chimneys. Such problems rarely occur in chimneys that are constructed of stone, concrete or brick, but will occasionally still require sweeping to remove ‘soot’, carbon deposits in a less combustible form...but, have also been known to catch fire when fires burn particularly hot...as the ‘creosote’ to which you refer, but in much small amounts, is held within the particles of soot that coat a stone, concrete or brick chimney. The best way to avoid such fire in wooden homes is to not use a steel chimney, but install a stone, concrete or brick chimney, or alternatively use a cast iron fire, with a secondary burn chamber, that effectively burns the ‘smoke’ from the fire, thereby reducing significantly, such deposits inside a metal chimney, and therefore also reduces significantly the chances of a fire occurring in the chimney...all chimneys should of course, regardless of their type of structure, be swept and cleaned occasionally, but if you have a steel chimney, predominantly burn wood, and do not have a stove with a secondary burn feature, you should ensure it is swept and cleaned thoroughly on an annual basis, and that you obtain an invoice on headed paper from the company that did the works...if you do not, and a chimney fire destroys your home, you may also find that your home insurance is invalidated, and any insurance claim made will be refused...as you have no evidence of having maintained the chimney to prevent a fire occurring...

[@dhall5634]

Of the thousands of chimneys ive cleaned, masonry ones most definately accumulate more creosote per a given amount of wood

[@raymondj8768]

hes got more hot air than his stoves do ! hes like a kid finding a new toy this info is as old as the hills !

[@randystrand908]

How about those of us who are not as old as the hills? Maybe we missed the basics you know so well? He did a great job of explaining the advantages of an insulated chimney pipe in general, but one insulated with foamcrete? Outstanding. Why not improve old as hills knowledge or technology? I'm only 67 so I'm not even close to THAT AGE!... ;)

[@columbusbrooks4517]

I'm 62hills old, follow Eric and his wife 4last 4years. Then 2Peter's batch box. This young man is very, very well equipped with his backround and luv 4the people that survive in our community. Bless this man, pray Lord keeps inspiring him to share his understanding. He paid a price 2recieve it

[@anthonyberger225]

Clean your chimney every 12 days and don't let it smoulder and that stove you got there is a pile of garbage

[@theusconstitution1776]

I burn my furnace 🥵 HOT. CHIMNEY IS ALWAYS NICE CLEAN PINK TILE❤️ FOR FORTY YEARS❤️🇺🇸

[@johnwunder3521]

throw some H2o into fire box to stop chimney fire.

[@stevepearson6983]

You need to get your facts straight. The diagram at 4min 15 sec is NOT a rocket stove. You are showing what is now being called a masonry stove. AND you did not show the flue which does draw the combustiongasses throu the entire system. Additionally most masonry stoves have secondary combustion air added which also was not shown.

[@nustada]

Yes, RMH are positive pressure past the riser and do need to be sealed, but with enouph cob it is impossible for there to be a meaningful leak. You speaking down to people interested in this only reveals your ignorance. The fact that hot air rises and the exhaust is positive pressure is exactly what makes RMH so efficient; the exhaust only leaves the system until it has shed a significant amount of heat as it stratifies. Negative pressure systems work by dumping enormous amounts of heat into the atmosphere. You insulting people who built these saying it is "faulty thinking" is ignoring the empirical fact that it works and it works well.

[@JoeGraves24]

nustada if an unobserved crack develops in the cob, one might be a dead person. Darwin’s system uses the massive heat sink effectively enough that the negative pressure doesn’t hurt efficiency. Without a drawing exhaust pipe, insurance companies and the UL probably will never approve of these systems.

[@Pren10]

Good info but you speak unfairly against the rocket stove 4:14 with such vibrato yet I can see you have no personal experience; only the books you read. We've proven it works. Simply claiming hot air rises is FAULTY thinking, It's relative. Hot air rises unless it is opposed by an even hotter air force by which it is comparatively colder. Air in the rising chamber is 1200F while the air in the outer chamber is 600F. We have successfully made these stoves; one in my house. The Science is sound and you have little ash and no creosote buildup. This is because the ash keeps rising as a stream of burnt fuel cycles down leaving nothing but C02 and water vapor in the exhaust.

[@kevintaylor1434]

Boring 😴, need to get to subject of video