Simple Tips for Better Spey Casting: Are Heavy Lines for Beginners Really the Right Idea?

[@32mega]

New-comers would benefit from watching all hooked for life videos!

[@buserror]

I can relate. We've started casting recently, and bought a Orvis 9ft6 #6 "kit" for myself, and a Snowbee 8ft #5 "kit" for my wife, and we've been plodding along with that. The Orvis is a LOT stiffer/faster than the snowbee. We've now 'mastered' (cough cough) these, and realized that 1) the Orvis "fastness" makes it actally quite difficult to master as a newbie, if you don't nail it, you fail miserably.. And the Snowbee comparative "softness" makes it a LOT easier for a newcomer. I've now got to grip with the Orvis, and I can /mostly/ cast the whole line out -- so, being cocky, I ordered a WF7F line (airflo) to try to get a bit more reach of the the rod. Result is complete /disaster/ i can't load the rod at all with that line on. I'm not /sure/ if it feels heavy or light TBH, I just know that I can make really beautiful tight loops with the #6 line, can can't get BEEP out of the 7 one! In comparison, when I cast the Snowbee #5, it feels like /butter/ it's so easy and smooth it's unbeleivable! On the other hand my wife who is now quite competent with the snowbee can't cast the Orvis at all! Anyway, and that babbling to say that I think a SLOWER ACTION rod is probably a lot easier on a newcomer than a WEIGHTIER LINE. Case in hand! I wanted to contribute this as you don't 'stay' a newcomber and early impressions are important.

[@hooked4lifeca]

Yup, more moderate action rods are often easier for the beginner and loading up a stiff rod with a heavier line doesn't necessarily make it better. Some stiff rods may become more moderate in action with the heavier line, while others just become more fussy to cast. It's that goldilocks zone I was referring to in the video.

[@buserror]

@@hooked4lifeca Do you have an idea on how to identify wether a line is "too light" or "too heavy" for the goldilock of a rod? I also know that lines "weights" are all over the place, so for example, I have no idea at all why that WF7F line doesn't work on the Orvis #6-- could be too light, or too heavy AFAIK

[@hooked4lifeca]

@@buserror Generally a 6 wt. rod will handle any 6 wt. line, so we can rely on the line rating numbers. Most 6 wt. rods should have no difficulty with a 7 wt. line, but there's a big BUT! Some lines are made deliberately overweight for a specific reason, so some 7 wt. lines would be very heavy on a 6 wt. rod, because they're built more like 9 wt. lines. For a line to be right for a rod, the simplest criteria would be that the rod can easily cast a smooth loop over a broad range of distances. When we lack casting experience, however, it can be tough to determine if it's the rod/line combo or our casting that's causing any issues that are occurring. For example, there's a tendency amongst beginners to work a rod very hard when we increase the line weight, when that's the opposite of what we should be doing. We should actually be slowing down and broadening the casting stroke to cast a heavier line.

[@matthewpastuszok8975]

Hi, how about a video discussing different sink tips's (poly leaders, level T, FloTips, dumbbell fly on mono/fluoro) application/use on different style spey lines (Scandi, Skagit, Rage, Traditional, Intermediate Sinking)? What works and what doesn't? Thank you.

[@hooked4lifeca]

I actually have a number of videos on my channel that cover much of this, including the differences between polyleaders and sinktips. They're not in one playlist, so I'll see about creating one.

[@hooked4lifeca]

Here's the playlist the covers most of your likely questions. kzbin.info/aero/PLJRJT3_vMju1sF5rbPc7WYTOAImlChuda