Hooking up the Components for a Quality SCR Treadmill Motor Power Supply, Treadmill Motor Controller

[@nedudki]

Im about to do the treadmill motor conversion, watched many of your videos, made notes, drawings, part list, and here is the best summarisation. Thank you!

[@dazecars]

Glad to help, let me know if you have any other questions

[@davidnolan52]

So glad I found your videos. You, sir, are an excellent teacher and a great asset! Thank you from the end of my lathe!

[@dazecars]

You are very welcome, glad I could help!!

[@BaldWolf]

Thank you so much for your detailed explanation. I spent an hour watching a following the instructions of other youtubers, and it would run a full speed whenever I applied power to the motor. Then I remembered your channel as, I'd come across it in my research for my 2x72 grinder. After watching you instructions twice and following along, I managed to get set up like yours (minus the circuit break as i didn't have one) and was up and running, however I haven't been able to get to run clockwise and anti by switching the wires on the bridge. I'll try and get the circuit breaker and switch and hopefully that will work. But thanks you saved me hours of head scratching. Subbed and saved

[@dazecars]

glad I could help

[@rdoyle7813]

Another great video. I just purchased a SCR from Amazon similar to the one you are using. When reading the Amazon feedback there were a lot of comments that the SCR's were faulty, as there was not change in voltage when checked with a multimeter. I checked the one I got by just hooking it up to a/c power supply and checking it with out hooking the output to any appliance. I was expecting the multimeter to show a voltage difference when turning the pot, but there was no change, same in as out. After many youtube videos I found out that the multimeter will only show a change in voltage when it is actually hooked up and turned on to control an appliance. Hope this might help someone else.

[@dazecars]

Good informtion, thanks for sharing it.

[@SaranganiBob]

I was only 30 minutes from doing the same test on my SCR then I read your post and had I not, I probably would have punched a hole in the wall and threw all the rest of the project in the garbage bin.😄

[@dazecars]

👍

[@wantlessobject]

Thanks for the excellent video. I would say that now you have the best explanation available. I just finished hooking my new setup up thismorning. Now I'm quite certain that it's done correctly.

[@dazecars]

Glad it helped!

[@gabewhisen3446]

Thanks for simplifying this mess merry Christmas to you and yours

[@dazecars]

Happy holidays!

[@manitobaman5588]

Your work and clear explanations are much appreciated.

[@dazecars]

Glad you like them!

[@joearcher7188]

Thank you so much, I needed this and will report on my attempt when I am finished.

[@dazecars]

Best of luck!

[@pjetenere1]

Great work,, I like what you do,, 👍 I am using this set up tomorrow on a Bandsaw,, (minus reverse)

[@pjetenere1]

Need to ask a question,, what type and size Circuit Breaker do you recommend?

[@dazecars]

Depends on the motor but in most cases a 15 amp is perfect.

[@Delamontante]

Some would it hate because of the dreaded four letter word (math) but there are those of us who would greatly benefit from a quick video on inductors. it might be a pretty advance lesson but i want to know more about how to choose or make one for this and other applications

[@dazecars]

First of all I am not an electrical engineer and have not looked into it enough to demonstrate the math BUT I do know enough to explain why for this application we don't need to worry about "sizing it properly" The two specs are amps and henries. Henries are the frequencies that the choke is filtering out and while that is extremely important on sensitive electronics like radios, audio equipment and sensitive measuring devices it doesn't apply to a motor choke because a motor is not a sensitive piece of electronic equipment. The purpose if a choke on a motor is not to eliminate all noise in a specific problem frequency but rather reduce noise arose the entire range and all chokes do that they are just lest effective the further you get from the intended frequency. Second spec is amps and milliamps. Almost all chokes are rated in mA as they are components for the above mentioned types of sensitive electronics. There are 1000 mA in an amp and most treadmill motors are at least 15 amps. If you have 100mA choke and a 15 amp motor that choke is 100 X to small. This brings me back to what I tell most people if it is not specifically labeled as a "motor choke" it will be way too small. In fact when it comes to chokes bigger is better. The bigger the choke typically the heavier gage wire it will have allowing for more amps and the bigger the choke the bigger the magnetic field so the more effective it will be at cleaning the power.

[@MichaelMassimino]

It's so odd that a DC motor needs and AC thermal fuse, thank you so much for the information!

[@dazecars]

not so odd due to the fact that it is on the AC side of the circuit. Glad it was helpful!!

[@MichaelMassimino]

@@dazecars just wired up my motor using your videos and everything works great! Need to replace the potentiometer, thanks for that video as well 😁

[@dazecars]

My pleasure.

[@raulc.]

Again, an excellent video. Please, keep them coming. Thank you.

[@dazecars]

Thanks, More to come!

[@zaidhussain5206]

Thank you for this video, it is very informative & I learned a lot.

[@dazecars]

Glad it was helpful!

[@omerzaidhussain1751]

The video is really informative , I learned a lot , thank you.

[@dazecars]

Glad it was helpful!

[@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549]

Nice presentation. Used your earlier video to purchase parts. Plan is to build a surface sander. but that's another timeline. Looked for a chock I could purchase. Whoa not in the cards !

[@dazecars]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ajaychabai8106]

So after building my scr controller as per your videos I’ve just been using the lathe as is with wires all over my bench.. I’m currently cleaning up all the wiring and making everything nice and tidy.. I want to wire up the forward reverse drum switch( 12 poles) and the green and red button master power/emergency off switch that came with my mini lathe.. What I’m thinking is the green/ red button one should be on the ac side before all the scr components and the drum switch where you have the forward/reverse toggle in this video.. the trouble I’m having is with how these two switched are hooked up with the original board.. it looks like both are connected on the ac side and are also connected to each other it a way that doesn’t really make sense to me.. I thought I had it figured out how I should wire everything up but after looking at the original wiring I’m either right and the factory set it up weird or I’m wrong and completely lost.. is there any way I can send you a picture of it to get your thoughts on how it should go? If not no biggie I totally understand your a busy guy and I appreciate your videos and all I’ve learned from watching your channel.

[@dazecars]

email me through my website with the pix

[@thanasiskatsambas7534]

Thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.

[@dazecars]

happy to help

[@ducati543]

First I want to say thank you for your videos very informative. The second thing I want to say is you confused me for a second where the breaker goes. You started out by saying the AC inductor is after the SCR then the breaker but in the diagram the breaker is before the AC inductor.

[@dazecars]

Either works. The only important thing is that the breaker is in between the SCR and rectifier.

[@HOSTRASOKYRA]

Thank you! Can you tell more about your chokes, please. AC and DC

[@dazecars]

The choke/inductor for the AC side is simple, it's just a doughnut core with the AC wires wrapped around it. The Choke for the DC side is just as easy although harder to find. The key is that its a "MOTOR choke". If its not labeled as a motor choke then it's too small. Most chokes are used as components on electronic boards and are way too small. If it is big enough for this application it will for sure be labeled as a motor choke.

[@warwickmark]

Hello and thanks for such comprehensive instructions. I searched for inductors and haven't found any that look like the one in this video. They look more like something for circuit boards. What size inductors would work? Please

[@dazecars]

I would recommend getting a ferrite doughnut from amazon and then wrap some wires around it 7 wraps each lead

[@adriancollins]

Great information and clearly explained, just how a good informational video should be 👍 Do you have a link to the DC choke you used please?

[@dazecars]

The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word transformer will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2, a transformer will have 3 or more. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@jlamarkjr]

Just found this video to help me build a custom lathe that I can turn larger drum shells on. If I wanted to add some digital meters to this circuit, would I just splice them into the beginning and end of circuit? Kind of like if you were using a multi meter to read such things like amperage and voltage? I found this really helpful thank you for sharing!

[@dazecars]

The meters will need to be wired to their factory spec. Different meters are wired up differently. Keep in mind that these power supplies can put out high amps and volts and some meters may not be up to the task without extra parts.

[@laurynastamosiunas6011]

Hi, great video! Can you please make a video of how to calculate the right choke and inductor values? I need a filter for 4kw resistive load with SCR power regulator, but don't know how to pick the right inductor to avoid spikes on the mains.

[@dazecars]

Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs or calculations for you on the motor choke. What I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available online are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in an amp. Treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available online are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are WAY too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@ChristopherDavidson-nz1xf]

Thanks so much for all your awesome videos! Ive probably watched all the treadmill videos more than once. Im stuck on the inductor... I purchased a 35mmOD ferrite ring ( FT-140-43 ) and im still uncertain what to do with it. I see you used regular insulated wire rather than enamel coated wire. I already have 12g insulated wire on hand. Can you tell me how many times to wrap each lead if using what i already have on hand, please. Thank you

[@dazecars]

You can do it with regular insulated wire. I do 7 wraps per strand of wire.

[@davidphipps46]

Great simple instructions thanks. I may have missed it but it seems you have bypassed the soft start, how?

[@dazecars]

soft start is only an issue on boards removed from a treadmill. Being an aftermarket SCR there is no soft start to deal with.

[@bigiron5508]

Sorry if it's already posted, but what size dc choke is recommended for this set up? I have all the other components. Thanks for your time.

[@dazecars]

The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2, a transformer will have 3 or more. General rule of thumb is the bigger they are (physical size) the better they work, also the coil needs to be at least 16 awg. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@JohnThawley]

Great video - thanks. You are really eliminating the guesswork for non-electricians like me! Next question: how do you deal with the treaded shaft/flywheel for high torque reversing applications like a lathe?

[@dazecars]

There is another video coming up with that info, but to give you a priview, the easiest solution is lock tite. That how all the smaller motors I have gotten come from the factory. A set screw can also be used.

[@JohnThawley]

@@dazecars So you just keep the flywheel and stick with whatever belt the treadmill used?

[@dazecars]

@@JohnThawley Yes, no, maybe. It depends on the situation. (you are really trampling over my future video 😂😂) some flywheels can be removed and there is enough shaft under the threads to add a pulley of your choosing. In some cases however the flywheel is also the fan so unless you add a differnt fan you must use the flywheel. My mill has a motor with thread on fan type flywheel. On it I turned the snout of the flywheel smooth and pressed a v pully over the snount. On a mill there was no need for reverse so I did not need to use loctite.

[@marvedavid4104]

​@@dazecarsthis can use for treadmill machine if the power supply has broken?

[@dazecars]

It could but its a bad idea. It will not have all the safety features that a treadmill needs @@marvedavid4104

[@SRG216]

I can think of 3 ways to turn the motor on and off. The default method is wire the on-off switch to the120 AC powering the SCR controller like in your schematic. Alternatively, you could have the switch on the output of the SCR cutting off power to the motor, or disconnect the potentiometer to stop the motor. Is there any advantage to either of these other two methods?

[@dazecars]

The make a potentiometer that is off on one end. A direction switch should be center off so that serves as the on off on the motor end. I use the off on the direction switch when I am threading because that operation is direction dependent. No mater how you do it you always want a master power kill switch in front of the SCR so those parts are not seeing power all the time.

[@SRG216]

I put a treadmill motor on my wood lathe and have basically wired it just like you have in this video. It was very helpful. I have a 16 amp breaker on the AC and another 16 amp breaker on the DC. If I have to pot on the SCR set to a higher speed, the inrush current blows the AC breaker. I can run at any speed if I start the motor off slower, maybe 50% max speed or less. Any suggestions on how to deal with this?

[@dazecars]

as long as the breaker going to wall outlet is 20amp you could upgrade that breaker in your power supply to 20 amp. then leave the 16 on the DC side for extra protection.

[@SRG216]

@@dazecars okay, thanks. the breaker for the outlet is 20 amps. I'll replace my breaker going to the SCR to 20 amps

[@dazecars]

19 would be better so it trips before the hose breaker but I don't know if those are even available

[@matthewlee7026]

could you potentially use a microcontroller with pulse width modulation and an H-bridge in place of the switch for other aplications?

[@dazecars]

My concern would be the high amp high voltage used to run a treadmill motor. I doubt an h-bridge would be up to the task

[@leeharveygriswold6160]

Hi, I was wondering if you had any info on selecting the choke and inductor.

[@dazecars]

Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs for you, what I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available on line are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in an amp. treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available on line are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture, they are way too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@williamnicklaus2203]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. This finally explained all the connections with all the possible components. ONE question - the SCR has a potentiometer for speed adjustment, how many ohms is that? I believe most SCRs come standard with a 470 ohm pot. Have read that a 200 ohm might be better. Thanks > Bill

[@dazecars]

Most of them come with 450K Ω to 500K Ω pots so 1000 X bigger than the numbers you have suggested (K means by a factor of 1000) Most SCRs require anywhere from a 120K to a 150K pot but It is not as simple as "this is the size you need". The SCR/motor/tool configuration can have a major effect on pot size. In order to correctly size the pot to maintain the ability of minimum RPMs AND not have a dead spot at the bottom of the pot you need to completely set up the system and then measure the resistance. I go over all of that in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmXHYahnh6-sjtk

[@zetuskid]

Hi love your display of how to wire up all the components of running a dc motor. Wish you had done it years ago, I would have had an easier time of hooking mine up. One question, the inductor is new to me. Why again is it necessary and are there different sizes and which one is required? Thanks again for this very informative video. Plain as day!👀

[@dazecars]

The inductor is basically an AC choke. It smooths out the power. A lot of treadmills come with inductors as the first component attached to the wires from the wall. Its purpose is to clean the power out of the wall before it hits any other components. I put them between the SCR and the rectifier because the SCR is simple and robust. In other words power fluctuations from the wall will not hurt the SCR. The power coming out of the SCR is full of fluctuations (dirty power) both from the wall AND from how the SCR works. The inductor reduces (but does not eliminate) these fluctuations. It is kind of like corse grit sand paper for the power, nocking off the rough edges. The DC choke then smooths the power out even more (fine grit sandpaper) make sense?

[@ajaychabai8106]

So would having an inductor before the SCR and after make the power cleaner or does it not work like that..? Would there be any benefit at all from adding a second inductor on the AC side or choke on the dc side..?

[@hutchinsonirrigation]

An ac inductor eliminates voltage spike that occurs when the power is turned off. This spike is caused by the collapsing of the magnetic field caused by ac. These voltage spikes would go directly to the scr circuitry if not for the inductor. A rectifier and diode combination virtually eliminates that spike.

[@dazecars]

👍

[@jstugs]

Good Afternoon! Thanks for the video, I am working on a treadmill motor to drive a squirrel cage fan and this is very helpful. One question that i have is how do you keep the voltage from going over 90v? If it is 120v from the wall, I am getting 112v, on the other side of the rectifier. I have not added the choke yet so not sure what that will do but right now I am sitting at that 112v and do not want to even test it due to not wanting to overvolt the motor. Will the choke drop the voltage enough to prevent the motor from receiving the 112v or am I missing something.

[@dazecars]

First in most cases a 90V motor will work just fine with a bit more voltage as long as there is an adequate cooling fan. The 90V rating is to establish the RPM and HP on the label. Second when you hook the motor up to the power supply and start running it the voltage will drop closer to 100 max. Third if you are really worried about it you can put a small resistor in series with the potentiometer to act as a limiter. When the potentiometer gets to 0 the SCR puts out max volts but with a small resister in series it will never get to 0.

[@jkmola]

Great and informative video. I gathered all the components and followed your instructions connecting them - I believe correctly. However when I turn the pot, when it finally engages it’s at a pretty high rpm. There is no ability to run the motor slowly. Is this due to incorrect wiring, a bad pot, or just an incorrect pot? Thank you!

[@dazecars]

The minimum speed of a treadmill motor is 250-500 RPMs depending on the setup and motor. To get slower than that you need to gear it down. As to it not coming on right away when you turn the pot it’s because the pot needs to be changed. This video goes over that process. Changing the Potentiometer in an SCR Voltage Controller Treadmill Motor Controller Power supply kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmXHYahnh6-sjtk

[@joshuaolivo537]

Thanks for the demonstration but the motor does not need a capacitor?

[@dazecars]

A capacitor is not required. These motors do not need a start capacitor and using a capacitor as a power smoothing device while effective in smoothing the power has the negative side effect of the motor surging under a load in my experience. I ran capacitors on several of my machines but removed them because of the surging.

[@peter-lz1zk]

I have a 120 v to 16v transformer do think if I remove the low voltage wire side it would work as a choke for a treadmill motor regards Peter . love the videos

[@dazecars]

That is likely a class 2 transformer from a doorbell or a treadmill. If so the wires in the coils are way too small. You need a minimum of 16 awg wire.

[@peter-lz1zk]

@@dazecars thanks now i know what to look for, cheers

[@dazecars]

👍

[@lelandwildes5236]

I am working on a rock tumbler type project that requires variable speed and continuous run for weeks at a time. I have several treadmill motors of various HP some with fans and some with the heavy flywheel still attached. I looking for 300-to 800 rpm. Could you suggest a potentiometer for the low speed... Could I add muffin fan to help cool if the motor fan is not moving enough air to keep the motor cool. Thanks in advance

[@dazecars]

First being that it is a rock tumbler I would gear it in such a way that you are maximizing torque. Second the Potentiometer size is dependent on the motor you are using and the loads of your setup. That is why you need to use the technique I talk about to properly size the potentiometer. Lastly if you need an extra fan I would recommend something like this amzn.to/3FTJDPJ

[@Robreeves-l1r]

Great instructions, question re the thermal switch wires (blue) from my treadmill motor, do you recommend not using?

[@dazecars]

Always use them. Here is a video on them. Hooking Treadmill Motor Blue Wires: SCR, MC60 and MC-2100 Treadmill Motor Controller Power Supply kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6mXYWVohcd7hZY

[@Robreeves-l1r]

How would you incorporate them into this circuit?

[@dazecars]

The video I linked shows how to wire the blue wires

[@tmmkrob]

@@dazecars you are the boss! Hooked up tonight and works awesome, even though the SCR is 470K Pot, I think I can use OK (this is SCR you had on parts list). At max speed got kinda scary fast, but wicked smooth and minimal sparks compared to my MC60 setup. One other question, if I decide to go out of DC output and add in RPM readout and another fan, should be no problem, correct? Sorry for noob question! btw, max rpm on this motor is 7099rpm and 2.5HP.

[@dazecars]

The RPM meter needs a constant voltage not a variable one. You may be able to accomplish that with a voltage regulator but I can not say for sure.

[@backyardmachinist]

Hi there. I just put together a circuit from your instructions in your previous video on this topic. Thanks for showing the steps because I wasn't quite sure I did it right. The only difference between ours is that I put my breaker at the being of the circuit, from the 120v wall power. How does this different from putting it between the speed controller and the rectifier? Also, don't negatively charged electrons come out the negative side of a DC circuit? So should the DC choke be on the other side of the rectifier-- the negative side? It's hard to find good, demonstrations on setting up treadmill motors, so thanks for posting.

[@dazecars]

Having a circuit breaker between the SCR and the wall will cut the power on the system before the house circuit breaker trips. Not a bad thing to have but not required. The house circuit breaker is there to cut power if there is a short and that is why most things we plug in do not have their own circuit breaker. The most likely failure point in the system is the rectifier and if it fails it will draw more power than the SCR can handle burning it out. Putting the breaker between the rectifier and the SCR protects the SCR from retifier failure. Think of it like a chain of events: Your setup, rectifier fails, overloads SCR which fails, than trips circuit breaker. My setup, rectifier fails, trips circuit breaker and SCR is not affected. Make sense?

[@jrgal27]

the wiring diagram is kinda confusing when it comes to the DPDT switch ,but thankyou for this great info on running a treadmill motor

[@dazecars]

this should help let me know if you have any other questions kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGLTm2aEZq9lrMk

[@davidphipps46]

Also in the schematic where have you connected the wiper for the pot and have you used a 10 turn pot?

[@dazecars]

all my pots are inexpensive single rotation pots (only about 3/4 of a full rotation). on things like my lathe I use two pots a 10k and a 120k in series to give fine and course speed adjustment.

[@carlkellogg5342]

Great job. Thank you.

[@dazecars]

Thanks for watching!

[@tomnorton8218]

Is there specification for the choke? I want make sure I get the correct one

[@dazecars]

Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs for you, what I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts from treadmills for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are way too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@kellyjones334]

Hello. Great info and we'll explained videos you have. On the SRC they have the 10000 watt one which you are using. Do you know if a 4000 watt one would work successfully. It has a volt meter meter reading on it and all adjustment like the one you use. It cost 34 bucks compared to about 25 to the one you use. Again great videos and thanks in advance. It is to run a treadmill motor also to control some electro magnets I'm making.

[@dazecars]

First I could not ascertain the quality of the SCR you are considering based on your description, I would need to look at the actual listing. Second SCRs are not created equally. I tested several before I found the "good one". Lastly advertised watt ratings are always max, continuous is about half of max so in your case 2000. Watts = amps times volts so if you are running a 130V 25 amp motor you are going to be drawing 3250 watts well above the continuous rating of that power supply. That is about as big as I have seen spec wise on a treadmill motor but it illustrates the point that a 4000 watt controller is going to be insufficient. The main switching component is primary where the watt rating comes from. It is this component that is doing all the heavy lifting so to speak so it makes sense to have one that is as robust as possible but still affordable.

[@kellyjones334]

@dazecars Thank you. I didn't think the 4000 was enough but wanted to make sure. The SRC is was looking at looks exactly like yours and comes from a US supplier. It has the fan inside and is rated at 10000. I have one of them voltage controllers from Vevor that goes up to 130. I will get you the number from ebay and send it to you. Thank you for your help and I really enjoy your videos. They are very well explained. You do a great job.

[@dazecars]

@@kellyjones334 Thanks, glad you like them

[@FirstAidServiceTeamsToronto]

Thanks for providing great content. I just found in a tread mill this PW sup: AEROBICS 9501001 REV J PACEMASTER PRO SERIES. It dose not have the 3 HWL pins. Would you have a suggested wiring option?

[@dazecars]

I do not have a hack for that one

[@FirstAidServiceTeamsToronto]

@@dazecars If I get the pin outs and get it working I'll let you what I find. I have taken 3 Treadmills apart and have not found any of the controller boards that you have mentioned so far. Thanks for the DIY info.

[@dazecars]

glad I could help

[@JamesInAurora]

Hi. I appreciate your videos. I bought the components you list, modified a microwave transformer, and bought a 2.5HP/3400RPM/17amp/130V treadmill motor, hooked it all up as suggested, and it runs. No visible sparking. However, the SCR hums very loud and cycles very frequently. I only took it to about 1500RPM. This does not happen using my Variac. Any thoughts as to why all the noise and cycling? I do not detect this phenomenon in your videos. Thanks.

[@dazecars]

Several others have reported this same issue with the DIY choke, although tons have had success. One guy even made two where one worked and one had the exact problems you are experiencing. Did you fully disassemble the transformer to make sure there were not any other connections or coils prier to converting it to a choke? Is it welded back together? is the coil locked into place? Another thing you can try is to put the DIY choke in line on the negative side instead of the positive side. It will still help regulate power spikes but may be less problematic on that side. Also what AWG is the wire in the coil? some microwave transformers are smaller and the coil wire may not have the amperage capacity. Those are just a few possible ideas.

[@brendand3030]

I really appreciate your videos!! I recently put a treadmill power supply for a compost trommel and used the converted microwave transformer as a DC choke. It made a very unnerving Dr Frankenstein type when simply taped together, however when I securely clamped it down to the table the noise disappeared. Do you know what this noise could have been? Also, would it be a point of concern?

[@dazecars]

It is a vibration created by the changing magnetic field. Was the top welded back on? Usually the top is where the vibration comes from if it is not solidly connected.

[@brendand3030]

@@dazecars Thanks for the Reply! I have it clamped down really securely and will eventually weld or epoxy it back together. But it is just surging on and off now. Im running it at pretty low power from the SCR. I have all the components from your SCR hookup video, but it doesnt seem to be working and I don't hear you mention that in any videos. Any Idea what that could be?

[@dazecars]

can you contact me through my website and send pix of your choke. it is weird that it was working but now its not. I wonder of due to vibration you broke through the insulation on the coil. You could also try running it on the negative side. Choke can be used on either side but sometimes works better on one over the other.@@brendand3030

[@paulmanhart4481]

It seems my last question didn’t make it through. Sorry if I repeat myself. I’m trying to understand the toroidal inductor. What exactly is it doing to the signal coming from the SRC? I want to understand it in terms of verbiage and equations. Thanks Paul

[@dazecars]

The inductor is a form of choke. Just like the motor choke on the DC side it is there to filter out noise and power spikes. Works on the same concept as a choke. When current flows through the wires a magnetic field is created and this field/(its creation) smooths things out. As far as "equations" at that point this question becomes beyond my abilities. I am not an electronics engineer, just a hobbyist. I know the basic functions of things but not the formulas required to map them out.

[@paulmanhart4481]

@@dazecars Thanks Daze. For everything, including your patience. Don’t take down your series until I’ve completed my system. Also, I just got a Southbend 10L lathe and I’m going to make an electronic lead screw. You have wonderful videos and you communicate well. Paul

[@dazecars]

@@paulmanhart4481 happy to help. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@daduce222]

Hey again, i see the setup on that rectifier but the one you actually use is set up a little different isnt it? Can you tell me how the nicer one would connect in this video? Sorry again for my ignorance

[@dazecars]

there are markings next to each post: + - and two sideways s shapes. The S shapes are AC inputs

[@daduce222]

oh crap, I just got it. except its turning in the wrong direction. Can i reverse the direction without a reverse direction switch. i did purchase one but dont have it wired in yet.

[@dazecars]

Just switch the wires coming out of the motor.

[@daduce222]

awesome detailed work. I am getting ready to build this for my wood lathe. can you give me a link to the circuit breaker your using in this video. I am not an electrician so I will be following your video step by step. also a good DC choke. thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.

[@dazecars]

here are a couple of options 20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh 15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2, a transformer will have 3 or more. General rule of thumb is the bigger they are (physical size) the better they work, also the coil needs to be at least 16 awg. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@daduce222]

@@dazecars Thanks so much. As I start my lathe rebuild, I may need your help for sure.

[@daduce222]

any preference between 20 or 15 amp? Which would you go with?

[@dazecars]

@@daduce222 depends on your motor. I use a breaker slightly smaller than max amps listed on the motor but still close so as not to trip it during normal operation. In other words 15 amp breaker on an 16-21 amp motor and a 20 amp on a 21-25 amp motor. Also check the breaker size in your house for the plugin you are plugging it in to. If it is a 15 amp circuit I would use the 15 amp breaker in the power supply regardless of motor size.

[@davidpeterson5953]

Great informational video. I have acquired all the components that I will need except the a/c choke. I was wondering if I could use a noise filter (RDFC-2916 047100) as found in smart drive washing machines. I have access to this at 0 cost but not sure if it would work. Thank you for shedding light and helping out.

[@dazecars]

My FAQ video scheduled to go public on Tuesday is all about chokes, but I can give you a preview of the information on that video. 😁 When it comes to the washing machine noise filter, honestly I do not know if that will work or not. I have some microwave noise filters that I plan on testing between the SCR and the rectifier but have not had time to follow up on that. Nice thing about the Microwave unites is they include a 15 amp fuse The AC choke (also known as an inductor) can easily be a DIY project. They sell ferrite doughnuts on eBay and Amazon and then it is as simple as taking 7 wraps of wire for each lead and then putting ends on the wires. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@chrisdaube5435]

Hi I have a question The treadmill wiring I am using has a inductor on the incoming earth wire from the wall,but the motor also has another inductor on the positive and neutral wires leading into motor. Are you familiar with this set up? Thanks

[@dazecars]

It is just one more component to filter the power.

[@swagswap]

You mention that the DC choke needs to go on the positive side of the circuit. In another video, you test different DC chokes, and show a shot of how much the motor sparks for each test. Have you tested putting the choke on the negative side of the circuit, and observed the relative sparking? My intuition tells me that it wouldn't make a difference which side of the circuit the choke is on, and I would love to have more evidence/information either direction. Thank you for all the great videos.

[@dazecars]

I have learned it is somewhat interchangeable, I have not done the test, but I can give you the evidence. I have scrapped a bunch of treadmills and the ones with chokes a lot of them are on the negative side but some are on the positive side. Also with my two DIY chokes, they seamed to work slightly better on the negative side but no difference with the factor chokes.

[@swagswap]

@@dazecars Thanks for the wisdom. I will stick with the positive side in my machine. Much appreciated for the perspective.

[@dazecars]

👍

[@ourspacesinc]

Would this exact setup work for a Vevor 48v 2000w 4300rpm brushless DC motor? Or would I need different rectifier?

[@dazecars]

should work

[@paulmanhart4481]

Daze, can’t you just plug the SCR into a 110 outlet with a switch to turn it on and off? What gauge wire are you using? Thanks. Paul

[@dazecars]

yes that is exactly how it works, 16 awg minimum

[@cliftonstone8568]

I’m your fan and I watch your videos and I’m put in together a dreamill motor but I don’t understand the reverse switch ,so I would like u to show me where to put the output and the input

[@dazecars]

Here you go Treadmill Motor Forward and Reverse Direction Switch Wiring and Feasibility kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGLTm2aEZq9lrMk

[@kellyjones334]

Hello Sir. I don't know if you have a video on hooking up one to 220 volts. I haven't been able to find it. Would there be any advantage to hook up to 220 when a motor has a 130 volt or perhaps a 180 volt where you would need 220 to achieve your 180.

[@dazecars]

If your motor is 130 and you hook it up to 220 you risk putting too much power to it and burning it up, but running a 180 volt motor on 220 would be just fine. May not want to take it to max but you could get it close.

[@jamesmacgregor4292]

Hi there. Great video-thanks. I've bought all the parts from Ebay except for the circuit breaker. Could you tell the manufacturer of the circuit breaker, I see below that the preferred current rating is 20A.

[@dazecars]

here you go amzn.to/3Dn03P7

[@jimmacgregor9081]

@@dazecars Hi there. Thanks for that info, I'll get one ordered. I hooked up the circuit with the parts I have and the motor worked just fine

[@dazecars]

👍

[@samehdarawshi3537]

do you think your setup will benifit from a D.C capacitor? heared it is recommended in general but will be happy getting your opinion here. thanks

[@dazecars]

I tried it. I harvested the capacitor from a defunked MC2100 (should be the correct specs for a treadmill motor) The result was surging under a load so I removed it.

[@samehdarawshi3537]

thanks for reply. that is interesting result

[@dazecars]

👍

[@curtmu]

As usual. Great Video. Do you have a diagram to add a capacitor to smooth out the motor? Is that needless complication?

[@dazecars]

I originally used an RC circuit (Resistor Capacitor) parallel to my motor in my setups but found that it didn't add any noticeable improvement to motor function, motor sound, and no noticeable reduction in spark where the brushes make contact inside the motor. (it was a huge help in those three categories when not running the inductor and choke but with the inductor and choke installed the RC circuit became somewhat redundant) To add to that when I was loading the system, such as deep cuts on my metal lathe, the motor would pulse as the the capacitor would discharge and recharge due to the increased load. Because of that I removed them from the systems.

[@devilvortex1]

H! What is inside the circuit breaker? it act like a fuse? I know that the breaker has a reset button.

[@dazecars]

Most are triggered by heat

[@thanasiskatsambas7534]

Hi there, I tried to use a washing machine motor with a variable motor speed controller like the one shown above without the conversion from ac to dc. When I tried it the speed of the motor could not controlled. In the contrary the speed continously increased and I disconnected it from the mains when the speed was exceeding 20000rpm. I put the motor directly on the mains but the situation is the same with the increase of the speed. The connection on the motor is. Jumper 2 & 3. The ac mains 1 & 4 . The 5 & 6 is tacho not used. Please advise and help Thanks a lot Thanasis Katsambas

[@dazecars]

A washing machine motor is is an AC motor o there is no need to convert to DC but an SCR is not a good speed controller for a motor like that. You will damage it

[@thanasiskatsambas7534]

Hi there, From my knowledge the tredmill motors are usually 3phase induction. Is this circuit suitable for the 3phase motor Thanks and regards Tk

[@dazecars]

Most treadmill motors are DC. This circuit is for variable DC voltage. A 3 phase motor is AC and requires a VFD to vary the speed. I have scraped about 15 treadmills and one out of 15 had an AC motor the rest were DC

[@daduce222]

hey, I have a question on the actual wire your using in this video. Is it solid wire or stranded wire? What is the gage you should use? Is there an advantage to using either? Could you use STD solid house wiring?

[@dazecars]

AC travels better on solid wire but DC travels better on stranded. 16awg is a minimum. I use stranded for everything from the wall on because of the flexibility.

[@dragan3290]

Beautiful 😍 🙂👍👍👍cheers from Australia. Subbed and liked

[@dazecars]

Glad you liked it!!

[@dragan3290]

@@dazecars thank you! I stripped my wife's treadmill and kept all electronics!

[@dazecars]

@@dragan3290 what kind of goodies did it have? which control board? which motor?

[@dragan3290]

@@dazecars it was a healthstream brand which I paid 1200 AUD from my dads inheritance. I did tell the wife: it just needs a new belt! Everything else is perfect. She wanted it gone. So I have absolutely everything but I have pulled all the electronics out carefully and now I'm going to cut up the frame! I did want to sell it but she wanted it gone badly. Lol. So I'm happy with a 180 volt 5 Amp motor.

[@dragan3290]

@@dazecars it has a j star brand motor for incline, a HPF filter, quite a ferrite core style choke, circuit breaker, on/ off switch .a complete circuit board with the main control panel and magnetic safety switch, and a little transformer. BTW I've never stripped a elliptical strider? But I have her healthstream strider. LCD is stuffed but everything else is there. After icut up a heap of steel while it's daylight here. That's my next mission! Lol 😆. Cheers

[@m06atc11]

What about the dpdt switch, ac choke and dc choke ? do you have links to them also ?

[@dazecars]

You can make your own AC choke with this amzn.to/43GZuer TheDC choke is harder to find. You will need to source a used one. Here is the direction switch I had on my lathe before going to a rotary switch amzn.to/43Cw9li

[@kylereynolds4239]

Thank you!

[@dazecars]

You're welcome!

[@tomnorton8218]

Quick question. What gauge wire are you using? Thanks

[@dazecars]

16awg at a minimum

[@rodweaver7205]

Where did you get the circuit breaker? I don’t see one like you have

[@dazecars]

there are parts lists in the description

[@zetuskid]

Hi Daze, not sure that’s your name but, loving your videos. I am in process of replacing one dc motor for a newer version. My old one ran on a MC-60 and going through a DPDT switch. It’s been hooked up for a couple years and I don’t have pictures of how I had it going through the choke and to the switch. I wanted to keep the new motor running on the MC-60 and the basic setup I had on the old motor. I also have a POT hooked up but thats irrelevant. I have pictures of my setup but can’t add them here. Can I send to your internet site? I just have one loose wire and it’s coming off one side of the choke and going to the DPDT switch but can’t remember where it goes on the switch. I WILL have pictures next time.

[@dazecars]

I can probably help. contact e through my web site so you can email pix

[@merewoman8205]

Question for Ypu and anyone else,,,,, there are so many older abandoned industrial sewing machine clutch (underrated) motors, dauntingly HEAVY, changeable speeds, pulleys, direction. Easy replacement parts, foot control, fun and easy to understand and work on. WHY aren’t they being used for other machines??

[@dazecars]

Lots of people have made comments about using sewing machine parts. They do work for a verity of applications.

[@merewoman8205]

Thanks for your reply. I am a glass grinder, beveler working on old stone wheel glass engravers for crystal cutting. I am buying a HEAVY industrial sewing machine motor, original switch, etc for $25 just to see how that pans out. (Also working with DC motors/controllers.) St Paul Mn

[@dazecars]

My one piece of advice is take a good look at max RPM and gear it to maximize RPM in the specific range you are after. Gearing will give more torque and make it more usable in most applications.

[@merewoman8205]

Thanks, that’s good advise,, I work with fairly low speeds, due to the nature of glass. Am making use of antiquated Babbitt bearings arbors/machines in good shape. St Paul Mn

[@dazecars]

👍

[@mikeharmon26]

I have a Leili 4.25Hp cont. duty @ 130VDC/3170 Watts motor that I am fitting into a Shopsmith Mark V. Would a 20 amp 110VAC circuit have enough to fully power this motor? I have 220 VAC available. Would that be a better choice? If 220 is the way to go could you recommend some componentry? You have the most informative videos on this subject that I have seen! Thanks for the videos and any advice that you can offer!

[@dazecars]

so the formula for watts is amps * volts, so based on what you have provided that is a 24.38 amp motor. At first glance that would mean you can not run it on a 20 amp circuit BUT are you going to be running the motor at full voltage all the time or more likely are you going to be running it slower meaning less volts? Also the amp draw is only max at full load. In other words if you fire up a 20 amp motor (made up numbers for illustration) measured the amp draw and the motor had no load on it may only be drawing 10 amps. As the load increases amp draw increases and to max the amp draw the motor must be loaded to the point where it is close to stalling. What I am saying is for most use you will not be drawing anywhere near max amps and if you correctly gear the motor to maximize torque the motor will see less of a load. The key here is to use a circuit breaker in the power supply that is equal to or slightly less than the home circuit breaker. That way the power supply breaker is the first thing to trip should you stall the motor at max voltage. Going 220 will give you more amps and most of these SCRs will work at both 220 and 110 but calibration becomes critical because that will give you way more volts and that will affect motor speed. If you put more than 130 through that motor you run the risk of burning it up.

[@mikeharmon26]

@@dazecars Thanks so much! I doubt if I will ever have the need to run it at full power. I appreciate your input. I'll wire it to 110 and it should be plenty for my needs.

[@dazecars]

Just make sure the wall outlet is truly up to 20 amps and that your power supply breaker is properly set up. Let me know if any other questions arise.

[@jaredwilliams5252]

Will this work on an out-rotor dc motor? Say a MBO-302442B-C 240vdc. It’s a treadmill motor but the housing spins instead of the shaft.

[@dazecars]

I would assume so but not having ever played with an out-rotor dc motor I can not say for sure.

[@aguycalledlucas]

Great video!!!

[@dazecars]

Thank you!!

[@fredchainring6728]

Have you wire this particular SCR to 230vac?

[@dazecars]

if its a 220 capable SCR it wires the same as 110

[@prabathabeysinghe9571]

What is the capacity of DC choke for 220V 2.2hp DC motor?

[@dazecars]

Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs or calculations for you on the motor choke. What I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available online are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in an amp. Treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available online are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are WAY too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@milanp5697]

Great video! What kind of circuit breaker you are using. Milan

[@dazecars]

Check description, there are links to the components

[@jameswaltz1661]

Hi DazeCars. I have a MC60 and no matter how i hook it up , it trips the breaker on my outlet strip. Is there a way to determine if the board is just shot or do you think i need to plug things right into a wall outlet? Im at my wits end. I cant figure whats going on.

[@dazecars]

Outlet wall. That strip is likely 10 amps or less. you want a 20 amp wall circuit

[@jameswaltz1661]

@@dazecars Thank you, because it was driving me nuts . Ill try the outlet

[@dazecars]

My pleasure.

[@SaranganiBob]

When I was in highschool 65 years ago I wanted to study electronics after I found a bunch of old radio valves in a box. But it wasn't to be. Now that I'm in my late seventies with my electrical appliances from Ch*na (where else are they made) only lasting a short time, the urge to learn to fix them myself has re-amerge thats why I'm hooked on your channel so thanks for your time and effort you put in to make these videos My first question of many more to come is... the SCR unit I purchased has a breaker fuse already installed, do I need to connect another fuse like the one you recommend?

[@dazecars]

Glad my videos are of help!! If your SCR already has one, then no you should not need another fuse.

[@paulmanhart4481]

Daze. You use conventional color coding for DC wires. Red is positive and black is negative. But you show the black wire connecting with the choke. What am I missing? Shouldn’t the red wire connect to the choke? Paul

[@dazecars]

The choke wires are black from the factory. They are hard wired in and not changeable.

[@bryantimms1469]

How do you know what size choke for the dc side and for the ac side?

[@dazecars]

Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs for you, what I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available online are rated in mA. There are 1000 mA in an amp. treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available online are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture in the picture they are way too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@bryantimms1469]

@@dazecars thanks got the reply. I picked up a tread mill last night for free but the speed control board is a fair be different then what i see in your videos so I opted for the scr route. Now looking at the tread mills speed control board, it does have a transformer and i was thinking of using that as my body and just re wind it like how you have done in your video. If i do that, how do i know if i have enough wire wound into it?

[@dazecars]

The transformer from the treadmill board is likely too small. you want it to be the size of a tennis ball as a minimum but bigger is better. As to the windings you want to fill it full and then secure the wire so vibration doe not cut through the wire shielding. this is why the microwave transformer is such a good option it is big enough and comes with the coil pre wound.@@bryantimms1469

[@rdoyle7813]

Hello again, I have scrapped 2 treadmills lately and the choke on the DC side to the motor were similar to the A/C chokes in your videos, do you think I could use these chokes in lieu of the transformer type looking choke? Just one more question, what amp breaker do you recommend between SCR and rectifier. Thanks for you help.

[@dazecars]

With the choke bigger is better. I have seen them from the little doughnut you are referring to all the way to the size of softball. The bigeer they are the better they have worked in my exprience. 15-20 amps is a good circuit breaker size.

[@chuckstoffregen8632]

I wired my Johnson 2.5 hp treadmill motor to a 12 volt dc wall wart power supply. It runs the right speed for my thickness sander conveyor belt. Will running it that way damage the motor?

[@dazecars]

It shouldn't hurt anything but it will probably not run very well. A wall wart doesn't typically put out more than 1.5 amps and most are even smaller than that. Most treadmill motors are 10-20 amps. There is a direct correlation between amps and torque so if you are providing fewer amps than what the motor is rated at you will get less torque and in this case a lot less. By extension that also means less HP as HP is a calculation based on torque in foot pounds and RPMs.

[@chuckstoffregen8632]

Thanks for the info.

[@dazecars]

@@chuckstoffregen8632 Glad I could help

[@davidhayes6639]

what did you do with the blue wires

[@dazecars]

I have a video on that kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6mXYWVohcd7hZY

[@elcid4207]

Hi Day, does the conductor have to be a green toroid? or yellow toroid can be used too, and what size? Thank you

[@dazecars]

It really doesn't matter. Because this is just a general filter and is not specific to an high end electronics, whatever core you can get should do the job. As far as size you want it big enough to be able to get the wires wound around it. I have links to cores in the descriptions of several of my videos.

[@elcid4207]

Thank you, @@dazecars You are a great instructor. Your videos are very clear and complete, congratulations.

[@dazecars]

Please tell your friends 😁😁 In all seriousness I am happy to help@@elcid4207

[@chrisdaube5435]

Hi there, Can you tell me / us, with the src controller that has 110/230v capability, how is it switched. I have just received 10000w 110/230 unit but I’m in New Zealand and we use 240v but I’m not sure on the above question. Thanks

[@dazecars]

It is not switched. It does the same thing regardless of input voltage. The thing you must be carful of is the voltage of your treadmill motor. If you hook up an SCR to 110 you get between 5-100V out of the system. If you hook it up to 220 you get 10-200V out of the system. If your treadmill motor is 180V-220 DC you are good to go but if it is 90V at anything over 1/2 you will be over driving the motor and will likely burn it out. Assuming your motor is 90 and not 180 the two solutions would be to use a potentiometer and a limiting resistor in series to get max desired RPMS so you can never get more than 1/2 out of the SCR OR use a 220-110 transformer between the wall and the SCR. Make sense?

[@Delamontante]

Ok so I'm super puzzled. I believe ive hooked up everything up correctly I've got it all installed into an old amplifier box that I've taken all the components out of. Then I go to plug it in and we get a pyrotechnics show. Then I'm getting 115 volts on the voltage output if the scr (the one you recommen) when I touch the top of the output with my multimeter but nothing coming out of it. what could be in between the top and the bottom of the outputs, you know when I touch the screws at the top.....115vac then at the bottom, the wires leading to the inductor nothing.

[@Delamontante]

I do have a circuit breaker there as well luckily.

[@Delamontante]

Now it's on and the fan is running we got no sparks or anything but I'm still not getting a reading out of the output

[@Delamontante]

Did I fry my circuit breaker cuz I'm not getting a reading there but I thought their job was to trip and then be reset

[@dazecars]

fireworks show indicates something is not hooked up correctly. Contact me through my website and send me pix of how you have it wired and I will see if I can spot an obvious issue.

[@dazecars]

👍

[@darrylmager1746]

Will it help to add a choke to a MC 2100

[@dazecars]

Yes a Choke will smooth out power from an MC2100 BUT the power is fairly clean to begin with so the minimal improvement from the choke will likely not out way the cost. Also a choke will do nothing to make the MC2100 more robust.

[@rustyshackleford9066]

Noticed you other older video "Putting Together a QUALITY Variable Speed Power Supply or Treadmill Motor Controller SCR type" It contains reference to the 100 amp bridge rectifier and a large smoothing capacitor. Are those items no longer recommended? Also any information you can share about controlling 3 phase dc motors? Do these instructions apply? Thank you for the great information.

[@dazecars]

I always use the 50 amp rectifier on the bench because its easy to hook up with quick connects, and there is little to no load on it. The terminals on 100 amp are bigger so the quick connects don't fit. I always use the 100 amp when building an actual power supply and recommend it in most of my videos. I don't mention it in this video because its about how it's hooked up not the components. There is a 100 amp rectifier linked in the description of this video and I have a recent video on all the parts needed to put together a power supply. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIaydKJmZtZ0iKc I have not messed with 3 phase DC motors so I do not know if it will work or not

[@rustyshackleford9066]

Thank you for the response. It's interesting playing about with these. For the life of me I don't understand why drill press manufactures don't setup their pulleys for low rpm drilling holes in metal. Who wants to waste money on burning up and breaking bits. Being in Canada it's like living in the third world . We can't get half of the stuff available in the USA. @@dazecars

[@dazecars]

I agree. I think the set them up for wood and that is why the RPM is so high. Kind of a one size fits none approach

[@rustyshackleford9066]

@dazecars I've seen many of these small DPDT switches, like the GAMA 28E-MTD. Which is 12VDC and 30A in use by treadmill motor hobbyists. When dealing with these 90 - 180VDC motors, some a max VDC run close to 30A. Should one use a switch with a higher rating than 12VDC? Something more along the lines of a 220V or higher switch. I would think lower rated switches might cause arching. Is that not a problem? Thank you

[@dazecars]

It's really simple and really complicated all at the same time. First Most switches are rated high on the AC side but not on the DC side. That is because AC is less likely to arch at due to its occulting nature. On the DC side higher amp higher volt situations will for sure cause arching so how can people get away with lower amp switches? well for starters most of those switches are being operated at low volts low amps. How ofter are we turning the machine off and on at FULL speed? seldom if ever. How often are we turning them on or off at full amps? seldom if ever. other than basic operating amps, amperage draw is dependent on load, the only way the motor will draw max amps is if it is at max torque load. Lastly most are running their treadmill motor with either a PWM or an SCR and rectifier. Both of these types of power supplies turn on and off to regulate voltage and in doing so act much more like AC. The pulsing nature will reduce the risk of arching and contact damage. The long and the short of it is a lower amp switch will work but likely not as long as the "correct" switch for the voltage and amperage. With all that in mind I recommend getting two switches. One to put in the machine and one to have as a spare so when the first one burns out in a year or two you are only down a few minutes rather than a few days. Make sense?

[@daduce222]

man, sorry for my ignorance here. i have the larger rectifier you use and i understand it is not set up diagonally like the little ones. can you explain to me where the black wire coming out of the breaker and the white wire coming out of the ac choke would go on the large rectifier. and then which two wires hook to the other side where the wavy lines are.

[@dazecars]

look at the face of the rectifier near the base of the terminals. the sideways S terminals are AC and the + and - are DC

[@daduce222]

@@dazecars does it matter which wires go where on the sideways s terminals. you plug the black from the breaker on the one labeled ac. mine there are just two s terminals for the ac side. can i hook this thing up backwards?

[@dazecars]

@@daduce222 from the point of view of the rectifier there is no polarity so either ~ terminal can be hot and the other one can be neutral.

[@daduce222]

@@dazecars awesome, thanks again. Waiting on last component to show up tomorrow, the DC choke. I will be wiring it up after that. Just trying to make sure I get it right. I appreciate all the help.

[@dazecars]

👍

[@rodweaver7205]

What DC choke are you using? Link to get it?

[@dazecars]

The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2, a transformer will have 3 or more. General rule of thumb is the bigger they are (physical size) the better they work, also the coil needs to be at least 16 awg. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@scottnewton6952]

What wire size do you use for an scr setup? Great videos!

[@dazecars]

minimum 16 awg

[@daduce222]

also, i noticed at the end after you hooked up the reversing switch, the first direction you spun it seemed to be the wrong direction and the second way you spun it seemed to be the direction it should spin. Now this is if what i have been hearing is true, that the threaded treadmill motors are all left hand threads. is this correct or am i mistaken? sorry for my ignorance, I'm just trying to make sure i get this right when i mount mine to the lathe. mine would need to spin the way you spun it last.

[@dazecars]

It depends on the factory direction of the motor. If it is labled CW than it is left hand thred, if it is labled CCW it is right hand thread.

[@daduce222]

@@dazecars Awesome. Hey thanks for the quick reply. I really appreciate it. I dont see either on the label of my motor. Would it be somewhere else? If I could attach a pic of my label I would. Sorry

[@dazecars]

@@daduce222 if it does not say then hook it up to a battery with red to positive and either black or white to negative and see which way it spins. That would be its normal operating direction.

[@devilvortex1]

Hi! How big the DC ckoke must be?

[@dazecars]

The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2, a transformer will have 3 or more. General rule of thumb is the bigger they are (physical size) the better they work, also the coil needs to be at least 16 awg. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[@claywilson8706]

In the video ( which is very good information) you have a circuit breaker, what amp did you use.

[@dazecars]

I used a 20 amp. You could probably get away with 15 but 20 is better.

[@claywilson8706]

Perfect thank you for the information and video, it clears up my questions and is very well done!

[@dazecars]

@@claywilson8706 Thanks, let me know if any other questions come up.

[@claywilson8706]

@@dazecars Thanks again and keep up the good information, It's much appreciated !

[@dazecars]

👍

[@elmexicanitonieto6475]

The power from the wall go at 220v or 120v ?

[@dazecars]

I am running mine on 110, but many SCR controllers are set up to work at 110-220 so as long as you had a 180V DC motor you could use 220 out of the wall. I would not use a 90V DC motor with an SCR and plug it into 220 UNLESS you put a limiting resister in line with the potentiometer to make the max speed the max rated RPM of the motor.

[@waynehuman1554]

Good Day. Any Chance of a Vid on a Simple DC Motor Controller with Specs and Circuit Diagram for a light Motor Car. Much Appreciation. Wayne. Alberton. Johannesburg. South Africa.

[@dazecars]

I don't have anything like that planned for the future

[@basilmonsoor631]

Hi , ac voltage is 220, i want 0 to 90vac variable ( i do not want above 100vac). So select value of potentialmeter. Tell me the value of potential meter, I am using 10,000w scr controller.

[@dazecars]

I can not as it is not that simple. You need to do some testing with a volt ohm meter