Hopefully This Was A Good Investment, Hammer A3 41 Start Up

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Power unit used in video amzn.to/3QUp1eO

[@2naturesownplace]

Did you set a few ground wires on the dust exhaust tubes? I think that cover is only to protect your hand from the exposed cutter edge not actually over the piece of wood going through the jointer.

[@brewmaster95060]

Thanks!

[@nathanelliott9013]

Thanks 👍👍

[@rocksteadfarm]

I have a similar but smaller jointer, and I pull the guard back to cover the exposed cutter area, and leave just enough open area to run the board through. That way, the only exposed cutter is under the board.

[@nsrvtqc]

I was going to say the same thing, I thought that’s how is was to be use, maybe I should have read the directions. 😂

[@stevecumberlidge2245]

Yes, that’s exactly how we use these in Europe, you can put pressure across the entire piece of timber as it passes the cutter block

[@karlpenning1302]

Congrats on the New Addition to your Shop

[@scobbydoo773]

DA you retract the guard to the width of the board and then you start to plane. The guard is there so that your fingers don't get into the blades that are not covered with your wood.

[@daveklein2826]

You are VERY wrong

[@SouthpawDavey]

@@daveklein2826 nope he is not.

[@mrkevinjmiller]

Beautiful planed walnut! Looks to me like one should set the guard to width of the wood, just covering the exposed part of the cutter head, not all the way to the fence. That would allow the use of pusher blocks or sticks, finger guides, or a power feed from infeed to outfeed over the wood-cutter head contact point.

[@mstrdiver]

Personally, I prefer using a planer for smoothing wide faces and not a jointer. When I use my jointer, I'm generally edging the narrower sides of the board I'm working on at the time. I grew up when these were called edge jointers and it is a more self-descriptive term when used [called] that way. Nathan - Your new machine looks like a heck of a workhorse. I like the idea of the separate cutter knives as opposed to single long blades mounted in the utter head too. Just swap out the defective [dull] ones, vice removing and replacing multiple longer blades and making sure they are installed level. Just stay safe around any of them.

[@johnanglada4720]

It’s a very good investment for you to have in your shop have a blessed year friend and follower of your videos John

[@jamiefulp8587]

The guard is to cover any unused blade width. Slide the guard out depending on if you’re jointing boards or planning depending on width or thickness of boards, that way you can keep pressure before and after the blade but not so much directly right on top of blade. You’ll have a lot better finish on boards without the loss of down pressure associated with you trying to dodge over the guard cover as noticeable on your first board you planned.

[@brycewiborg8095]

I broke out in a sweat listening to you. Only 91 in Minnesota today. Thanks Nathan.

[@larryrivers2752]

I believe you'll find you'll have better control of the wood if you push it up to the fence then plane! You have a heck of a nice work shop. Like your videos.

[@olleroma]

Good call on the Dust Right quick connect, I moved to that instead of dedicated hoses all over the shop, works great for me.

[@guymontana5338]

Hey Nathan, if your dust collection seems to need more suction at some point, probably just a PVC cap over one or more of the 3 extra hoses. That would take much less space than the gates.

[@cripplecreeksawmill]

You're going to be happy with it, I know 2 or 3 guys that have them in small shops (because of their small envelope/footprint), and they consistently turn out very high quality/straight wood. -Andy

[@kellymcmanaway4069]

I was driving through Indiana the other day on my way to pick up a load of steel bars, and on I-74 in Batesville Indiana I saw there's a new Wood Mizer store being built.

[@funtyes1970]

i don't know if you have one you should do a video of your wood shop tool tour show us what kind wood tools and machines you have , thanks for sharing your videos with us

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Thanks for the idea!

[@Tscaperock]

Happy birthday Bruno!

[@sethhamilton5824]

I have one. I’m not sure how it’s going to like heat and moisture cycles. Look forward to seeing.

[@MichaelJohnson-jt5cu]

If you ditch the cover guard, make sure you double check your carbide cutter set screws, one of those flying off the cutter wheel could make for a bad day.

[@colesmith2541]

I use the old Johnson’s paste floor wax on iron tools, oak floors, walnut furniture (oiled first). I like it for the tools because doesn’t attract dust, as if there is any dust in my woodshop.

[@sveinnskovgaard3051]

It's currently 73.4 Fahrenheit here in the uk where i am

[@texasjetman]

awesome temp.

[@tonygrimes13]

23 C in new money!!! lol - I use both depending to whom I'm talking to!

[@simonpaulbaker5986]

Love the hat Nathan!

[@brianrobertson6475]

It's an excellent machine. I have the Hammer C3-31 comfort combo machine. I modified the planer crank putting a bolt in the middle. It lets me use my cordless with a socket. Poor man's power table. You should get rid of those hoses on the dust collection. You lose sooooo much draw as they are VERY inefficient. Better to switch over to hard pipe. Or even PVC as long as you wrap them with a bare copper ground. Have fun!

[@AaronGeller]

How do you like having a combo unit as opposed to separate units? My fear is that I would get sick of having to switch over, but that’s just my guess.

[@brianrobertson6475]

@@AaronGeller As I work alone, I find the nature of the machine does not impede the machine process. That is to say, order of operations are not not inconvenienced and change over times are made easy and efficient by a well designed machine.

[@berniecrouse7265]

You want to run your piece up against the fence to keep it straight as your pushing it also bring your gard close to the edge of piece. I think I like the old school type fence it runs along the edge of your board keeping your hands safely away from blade.. I would not remove the one you have it's better than nothing

[@dlfabrications]

Looks like a power feeder extension would work nicely with the jointer

[@dmorgan28]

Nice machine Nathan. I really like it. 👍👍👍❤️

[@techauthor324]

That looks like a very nice dust collection setup. Hope it works as intended.

[@greganderson3408]

I have an A3-31. Same machine. Just 10” instead of 12”. You have a couple of things wrong with your technique. You DO NOT press down on the wood’s face as it passes over the cutter head. This just simply makes your curved board planed on one side instead of taking off material at both ends of the wood until it is flat all the way from end to end. As for the guard the way to use when face jointing is to adjust the height until just above the surface and then push up against the fence. As you push the board through just simply let you hand ride over the guard to the other side and then continue. Cheers and enjoy. Greg from The Junction Woodshop 😊

[@taxodiumdistichum9678]

$125 for a wire but over $5,000 for 4 power units. Bless your heart!

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

5k? Nope. But thanks for the blessing

[@retiringrenegade9874]

Very nice addition Nathan! If I may, I was taught to keep the stock true to the infeed surface until a sufficient amount of stock, which has successfully been engaged by the cutter head is on the outfeed surface! Then switch to holding the milled stock true to the outfeed surface only! Holding pressure on the outfeed early can create problems on the first pass if the entire leading surface is not engaged by the cutter head! The same holds true to holding the stock down too long on the infeed! None the less, congrats on the improvements Brother, I am extremely happy for Ya! Well done!

[@joeltapp7028]

I think trying to add gates to two of the other three hoses would be worth the effort as you want the 'multi-purpose' hose to have maximum suction for those other tools.

[@jeffpeters1014]

I use a plastic take out container with a couple passes of electrical tape to block off a port like that. Works great

[@robertovermier6200]

Suggest you look into a power feeder to help in running your materials through the jointer/planer. You will eliminate all of the lifting marks that appeared by hand feeding the board through.

[@donovansteele834]

Jeez my guy... thats a knife!

[@j.c.linden]

Seems like the side of the board should have been riding against the metal back plate so it would not keep swimming around. Seems like the reason that guard moves in and out is so it will cover all the cutter except the part your board is moving over. That way your push blocks are putting pressure downward over the cutter head. The traditional spring loaded ones would be accomplishing both those operations automatically. Pushing your board back against the back plate and only exposing as much cutter as the board is wide. There is a similar guard on this planer kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKWqlJV9ppqfd6c, but it has a different end that is riding against the board being planed. Look at about the 2 minute mark in this video

[@hj8607]

Two Jessem stock guides secured with Magna locks . (or two mini stock feeders attached likewise , You already have $9500.00 in this so not much more for safety and control)

[@OTOss8]

I really like your videos. Your whole family seems lovely. You folks seem like you'd be fantastic neighbours.

[@daleinarizona1561]

It’s 113 here in Arizona.

[@bwillan]

I see you shop suffers the same issue mine does. Every horizontal surface becomes a magnet for stuff to accumulate on.

[@benjaminquist2011]

Check out Bents woodworking channel, he has the same machine and does a great job explaining about that European guard. Nice you got it all set up, looks fantastic!

[@kevinmatthews2620]

why not install a sacrifical fence parellel to the main fence and above the cutting blades, height adjustable of course to apply downwards/sideways pressure on the piece of woods as it travels over the cutters, norm abraham used to use them type of fences way back in the day, just a thought tbh ??

[@moriarty2278]

Bro, pretty sure you're supposed to use the fence & retract the guard back to the width your planing! Just sayin 😎

[@stephenwalters8061]

Correct.

[@stevecumberlidge2245]

100%

[@neilperrin6400]

Correct. That way you’re also running the side of the board against the guide which will give better overall control

[@craigb9241]

Finger board above the planer blades so you don't end up with board-made fingers?

[@jackterry7664]

I like that guard better than the spring loaded one. My messed up ring finger would have liked it too!

[@SouthpawDavey]

You should only put the safety guard to cover the bare blade open it up to how wide your plank is. I have a small jointer with the same system.

[@neilarmitage6632]

Buy the automatic feed rollers

[@HotrodRon74]

i have one,not that big,,its a 10 inch,,,i use sears blades on it,,i do oak,,small stuff for little boxs ,,i want to make a chest to go under my bed,,for ammo and personal stuff,i got my gun chest full,,haa,,,oh well if it burns it burns...yeah thats one fine jointer you got there...at one time i had a Rockwell it was 3 faze,and i had it converted to 2 faze,,work very well,,oh it waighed a ton,,very good one..i was really in to wood work,,but i was a auto Tech for 52 years,,just did wood working when i was free..haa your shop is shaping up Nathan..i got some fine looking wood there,,,be careful

[@bradr8717]

Try adjusting the guard to cover the cutters not needed for the board. With a push tool you won't expose your hand to the cutter at the end of the board.

[@daveklein2826]

The wrong way to use it

[@vdsgw52]

Years ago Norm Abrams on This Old House made feather hold down boards for the wood to slide under and be held down and unable to fly backwards.

[@stevenhancock5435]

What mobile base are you using for the Hammer A3-41? Great videos!

[@johncollins500]

Nathan, instead of removing the gaurd try moving it out a little wider than your work piece. You'll have a little hand protection. Until next time have a wonderful day & be safe.

[@benrudman3917]

I’m digging the shorts! What are they? -Ben

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Cut off Dicki work pants

[@CaptScott-ff6mf]

I'm waiting on delivery on the same exact machine. The trucking company should be calling any time now to schedule drop off. Question, I am going to use a similar mobile base. How did you get the machine off the pallet and onto the base? I too put paste wax on all my machine beds. Keeps them from rusting and the wood slides ever so much more easily.

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

I used straps under the base

[@James.......]

Nice machine! Might have to get one of those after I save up after buying this log splitter. I've never seen a guard like that...don't know if I'd like it

[@joeltapp7028]

I think the guard should only guard the exposed (not under the board) part of the cutter.

[@evankibbe590]

I was going to ask what that lube was but 😊👍🌎🌞

[@steveshoemaker6347]

That is a very nice machine.....Thanks Nathan....Shoe🇺🇸

[@jimbecker5675]

I'm personally a fan of J/P combos, especially for smaller shops. Great value for wide jointing and thicknessing. Mine happens to be an Italian machine, but I could have been just as happy with the Austrian machine, too. I"m also a fan of the bridge (EURO) guard. One thing you'll find convenient is when you are face jointing you can pull the board back over the guard without a lot of lifting and without compromising safety. You will also find it easier to not use the push blocks most of the time. You'll learn to span your hand over the bridge guard to keep the pressure on. That pressure should be on the outfeed table just beyond the cutterhead and you can achieve that with the bridge guard in place with practice.

[@jamesdmagness]

Finally someone else who actually knows how to use the bridge guard!! It's an actual time saver in my opinion. Excellent comment and helpful info sir!

[@steveogle3679]

He'll thank you for this. Perfect explanation. Once you go to a Euro fence you never want to go back

[@jimbecker5675]

Nathan, If I lived closer, I'd come by to demonstrate what I mentioned in a heartbeat.

[@daveklein2826]

T9 and paste wax is the best

[@TheZambie1]

Boy I sure wish I could chat with you for a few minutes. I am up against some hard decisions I have to make on my own here.

[@tommychew6544]

Great to see some machinery firing up in the Timber frame. Looking forward to watching what you'll be able to get done in there when everything is up and producing.

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Me2. Thanks buddy

[@JohnWilson-bf4mi]

You don't want to put pressure over the cutter head pressure only on the front and rear of the board you will end up with a bowed board otherwise also you don't want to push with interrupted strokes one long smooth stroke

[@RA-sz5tu]

down pressure = finger board clamped to fence

[@daveklein2826]

NOT

[@KillingerUSA]

dreams do come true

[@stanwiggins3423]

To keep pressure on the board as it goes over the cutter head, why can't you press down on the guard itself since it's right above the cutter blade?

[@alanatolstad4824]

You're the energizer bunny. I'd love to have Linda capture a shot of you at ease!---Loved the hat!---Wish I could have seen how much water was in the kiln bucket...oh well. Maybe next time?

[@texasjetman]

those lose straw hat sometimes bamboo straw are super cool and comfortable in the summer.

[@symons666]

Obviously a visual thing with the camera, but it looked better straight from the kiln, and rougher after the planer !!

[@daveklein2826]

European guards are the best and the safest

[@tommc49]

Are you going to put battens over the gaps in the back wall behind the dust collecter?

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Covering with metal

[@smity7096]

A jointer is a mostly for edging boards in my world thinking. I'd use a planner for that. That's just what I've done over the years. I'm open to new things though

[@silverbackag9790]

Face joining works much better than trying to use planner to get a flat surface. The Brits have it right. What we call a planner should be called a thicknesser.

[@williamlulay7982]

Seems like some sort of pressure roller over your planer blades would not only put pressure against the blades, but act as a safety barrier to keep hands away. Everything is getting ridiculously expensive - seems every time I go into a store, the price on everything has gone up by a dollar from where it was before.

[@TiredOldMann]

Any Tool is a good investment.

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Agreed

[@davidhensley76]

Will that walnut sawdust kill the grass outside the building?

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

I hope. Less to mow 😂👍

[@memlay465]

Nathan, put pressure on the in-feed side only until there is sufficient material on the out-feed side; then apply all downward pressure on the out-feed material only.

[@texasjetman]

AWESOME Nathan, 100% agree the ECOFLOW Unit has great reviews, excited my unit just arrived this week, AMAZON, has a $100 coupon on it, and a package deal with 4-fold out solar panels and cables, can be charged, 110V, 12V auto, Solar Sun, I would say it's pretty important item to have with rolling blackouts expected, if nothing else to run a fan and keep you cool while the power is out. did I mention it was HOT in Texas?

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Yes sir. Hot one in TN today

[@fgllc]

Try mounting a feather board to your fence to give you the down pressure you are looking for and help with kick-back.

[@dalgguitars]

I'm sure it's been said before. And I know you are no where near done with your shop. But solid ducting is wayyyyyyy more efficient at moving air than those bendable hoses. You would get more airflow by changing out that giant exit hose with a solid duct. Just a suggestion, I know it's probably been made before. "Stumpy Nubs" has really great videos on dust collection.

[@craigsudman4556]

I am no expert, that being said; I would set the guard to cover the part of the blade that will not be used before you push your wood on the jointer. That way only the part of the blade that is going to contact the wood will be exposed and one can push the wood through without interference from the guard. Great video Nathan thumb up...especially when using the jointer.

[@MikeyDonna]

When you get that shop completed and all your new equipment wired and dust collection neat and tidy it will be a show place of your county. By the way that jointer will trim your fingernails off up to your elbows !! Oh and it was 113 here in Yuma AZ today . Nice 😊

[@colinbassingthwaite5362]

can you put a power feed on that machine

[@davidcurtis5398]

Don't put blast gates at the machine, put them at the unit where you are going to collect the dust. Or in the middle. You might want more suction than you think and then you can cut off one or two hoses. You might need 2 or 3 hoses to work for the collector to function properly. It may need a certain amount of air going through it so the motor doesn't over work itself. I have an "old fashioned" planer (with the pork chop guard) and the guard broke. I now move the fence over so I have only the width of the board showing. The rest of the knives are on the back side of the fence.If you want to do production work, how about an automatic feeder like you might use on a saw??? That would make the feed rate constant and also put downward pressure on the out feed side of the cutters where the pressure needs to be. It also seems that it would keep your hands away from the cutters. Just a thought!!!

[@marlisYUSE]

Hi, what is the mobile weel base that you use for your Hammer A3-41?

[@r1mein54]

We hit 100 F. today in N. Fla. If you had a manifold to put 4 blast gates on and then you could close off 3 and have suction on one. Try a spring loaded roller just after the guard.

[@theperfectpatty9026]

well you better watch his video on how to use a jointer too

[@eddyarundale1566]

👋

[@briantaylor1796]

Just wondering how many horsepower your using for the dust control system. I have a smaller shop but I would like a similar set up. Thanks for all the tips!!

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

4hp

[@victorhopper6774]

i use a old floor vac and vent it through the barn wall with 4 inch hose. just had to custom make a fixture to hold the vac on the planer. been working great for 20 years. cost 5 bucks for the hose

[@09FLTRMM77]

MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼

[@terryquiram3344]

If your boards start to get draggy on your machines a quick slick up can be done with kitchen wax paper. Wad up a handful and buff the surfaces. The paper will last a long time. Use push blocks both hands on the jointer. That machine will take your fingers off in a heart beat.

[@kevincinnamontoast3669]

Its a great investment,you just need to buy it used.

[@bobwollard9105]

So glad to see you using T-9 Boeshield. I discovered that stuff about twenty years ago and it works fantastic.

[@jakster1952]

Big fan of your channel, keep rolling brother! 😎😎👍👍

[@inspectr1949]

Thats an aftermarket mobile base for the A3 41 which one is it?

[@jimyounger9490]

I don’t like using a jointer as a planer. Looks like a nice machine though. And yeah , I don’t like that guard at all.

[@georgeescaped6035]

you put wax on that table makes things really slick kinda looks a little scary maybe some magnetic edge things to keep wood against fence and maybe a auto feed to keep wood down with an even pressure and speed?

[@theperfectpatty9026]

watch matt cremona s dust collector video maybe sell one of those tractors and get a real dust collection system

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

I’ve talked with him. My dust collector is actually bigger/has more cfm than his. Maybe do better research before commenting

[@philstocks7859]

Why use a jointer to plane a board? Why not use a planer that is designed to plane boards? Down pressure? A planer, by design, provides it's own.

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Planers don’t flatten boards.

[@daveklein2826]

That is absolutely NOT TRUE

[@philstocks7859]

@@OutoftheWoods0623 If planers do not flatten boards, can you please explain to this 74 year old (who by the way has been flattening boards with planers for 58 years) what the purpose of a planer is?

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Sure thing I’ll help you out. A planer removes wood from one face. Doesn’t make it flat unless the other face of the board has already been flattened. So if you run your rough stock through a planer it is not going to be flat unless you flatten one face first. I was actually taught that in shop class in the early 80s. It’s basics milling principals

[@daveklein2826]

@@OutoftheWoods0623 perfectly said

[@danielbohannon302]

Let me know when they're 4-ft Walnut slabs go on there I might

[@daveklein2826]

Keep watching

[@michaelslade5747]

think you mean turn the blades 90 degrees not 45 on the new joiner when the blades become dull.

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

Nope 45 has 4 edges not 2

[@mikewatson4644]

@@OutoftheWoods0623 4 edges would be 90 degrees. 4 x 90 = 360. Full turn.

[@daveklein2826]

He meant what he said

[@markpashia7067]

What would happen if you put a heavier piece of wood on top as it went through the planer? Thinking like a 2x3 piece of oak or such that would weight it down as it goes over the cutter. Just something to give it some down force other than your hands. Could even be wider than the board so you could run against the side guide evenly.

[@helmutperner5616]

Hi Nathan, Im using the Hammer A3-31 and you never should remove the blade guard because you miss your fingers faster as you turn off the machine! As an apprentice I lost 3 fingertips on a very old surface planer without this safety equipment and this was warning enough for the rest of my days as a cabinet maker! You only apply firmly pressure on the outfeed table by over reaching with your hands. There is no need for any push blocks unless you want to install a power feeder for doing the work for you! Good luck with this machine and Greetings from Ireland, Helmut kzbin.infoxwEKZSPstEg

[@johnnysechrist6313]

Used parafin on my big Tannewitz table saw to keep her clear of rust....had her for over40 years.....bought it from a Thomasville NC furniture company.

[@ralphpezda6523]

I can't tell if your jointer fence is aluminum or cast iron. I had one of cast iron that warped and had to be reground flat. If it isn't flat you will likely get a twist when you joint the edge of a board. Cable from an electrical supply house was 1/3 the price of Lowes or Home Depot when I last bought some about 3 years ago. Dust collection hoses are $4 - 6 a foot at Woodcraft as of yesterday.