Horizontal Boring Mill: Making a new Lead Screw Nut with Internal Left Hand Acme Threads - Part 1

Horizontal Boring Mill: Making a new Lead Screw Nut with Internal Left Hand Acme Threads - Part 1
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[@odiekivarkis8193]

Kieth, aside from your outstanding machining skills, your descent human being cannot be hidden. It just comes out through!

[@JimmyLee0757]

I spent my life in the auto repair industry and don't do any of the things you do but I can sit and watch you take a piece of metal and make stuff, all day. I'm like a kid watching Loony Tunes on Saturday morning. I love to watch master craftsmen using their amazing skills.

[@PatrickPoet]

same

[@RG-gk4yi]

Going back through oldfoundrymans videos has much the same effect. Another master craftsman.

[@johnmcclain3887]

I've been cutting threads single point better than fifty years, and I still enjoy watching them cut by someone else, when it goes exactly perfect. Thanks, beautiful work there.

[@5stereosteve]

Glad to see you have mostly recovered from your procedure. Be safe.

[@timetodopatriotstuff2315]

Well that went as smooth as possible nice work Keith

[@sintaxera]

I dunno why, but I really love watching your videos. One day I might buy a tool

[@cameronmccreary4758]

Very nice work on the threading.

[@bcbloc02]

Nicely done. It looks good.

[@garthbutton699]

Left hand acme,learned a.lot thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎

[@llapmsp]

Awesome job . I always enjoy the threading videos.

[@wirenut003]

Kieth I must say your content is very enjoyable to view, besides learning great things about different tools that some I have used myself through the years.

[@dfishpool7052]

Very nice work there Keith - thanks for the video.

[@danielelse3914]

Appreciate all of the varying angle shots showing the operation of each part of the threading process. It helps those of us who are not machinists better understand what goes into planning and execution.

[@calevel]

Another great video Keith! Thanks

[@tornerongkamayvlog1009]

Good job my friend nice sharing

[@robertbamford8266]

The moment if truth. Sounds of satisfaction! Thanks for the video!

[@scottvolage1752]

Good to see you back in the shop Keith. Have a blessed weekend.

[@davidgibson5756]

Great videography of all the components of threading. It is always amazing to watch.

[@iteerrex8166]

Awesome fit, like you say “right on the money”.

[@MrDdaland]

Good morning Keith. Hope you are feeling better!

[@camojoe2]

Glad to see you back Keith. You look and sound like you're feeling better. Regards, Duck

[@outsidescrewball]

Got to luv the positive stop on the carriage in feed…

[@Paul-FrancisB]

Good afternoon all

[@glennstasse5698]

I appreciate the time you took to reset the camera to show various operations. It helps with understanding and I know you could just as easily do without it.

[@krbuck]

Came here to say that. I really appreciate the extra effort to reset and show the different views.

[@CornishMiner]

Lovely work Keith.

[@gwpsr58]

Love the sound of bronze being machined.

[@tonyschiffiler4816]

Nice to watch in morning with my first cup of coffee, thank you Keith with another nice job.

[@glenfeane2265]

Love stuff like this. From Ireland 💯🎆♏

[@rickherrell9451]

Leadscrew and chuck turning in the same direction = right hand thread, leadscrew and chuck turning in opposite directions = left hand thread. Just a simple formula that you can't screw up! (no pun intended!)

[@garthbutton699]

Hey,thanks for the simple tip.

[@yanwo2359]

I LOVE that you never have ads! How is that possible? How can you afford to provide your consistently great content for free?

[@paulcopeland9035]

Maybe you have Adblock "on" and aren't aware?

[@altonriggs2352]

I hope you are recovering well. Prayers here.

[@MrPossumeyes]

Thanks, Keith.

[@mdouglaswray]

Making the machines that make the machines!

[@malliz1]

Nice one Keith

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.

[@bertjankosters]

Incredible work Sir!

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Great video Keith, keep'um coming...

[@stephensimpson5283]

I find this so fascinating. Brilliant!

[@deanehill9730]

Nice job. Thanks for the video.

[@VanFlausch]

Another nice One Keith!

[@bigwave_dave8468]

Nicely done!

[@benpress8884]

Looking forward to part 2

[@mathewmolk2089]

Cut it in half and make it into an ant-backlash nut? You on you own on how to pull it off. ,,,, Can't wait to see that big dog hunt, though. It was born Right here in Cleveland, back when we were king of the hill for the machine tool industry. Bardons and Olliver, Warner Swasey. National Acme, Cleveland Twist among others this was a town of Machine tool builders. Glad to see you saving that particular Lucas from ending up as a part of Jap truck transmission.

[@jackormrod9128]

Superb thank you

[@roylucas4414]

Great video.

[@1903A3shooter]

LOVE your vids Keith, by the way Acme threads are 29 deg.

[@hadifarajzadeh3421]

Very very good👏👏👏👏👏

[@stevespra1]

Turn, bore then cut... Concentricity is easy to achieve without the need for the 4-jaw

[@steveb9270]

Hi kieth all roads lead to Rome i know. I work for a valve manufacturer and cut acme threads all the time there is no need to move the top slide to14.5 degrees keep it at 0 and just go in the calculated depth. Also reverse the feed start on the inside and cut out way quicker cheers Steve

[@johnkries8189]

Nice job

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@4GSR]

I swear Keith has a bell off of a locomotive train engine hanging on the Marvel saw somewhere, dinging as it runs! As always thanks for sharing. Ken

[@paulcopeland9035]

Speaking of the Marvel, that is a sweet saw! Actually, if you think about it, Keith has a shop full of premium machines! Over the years he has collected some of the best stuff around. Well done Keith!

[@ton146]

Is that not the welded joint in the blade we can hear?

[@4GSR]

@@ton146 That very well could be the weld passing over one of the wheels or thru a blade guide making that pinging noise. Only Keith would know. Maybe he will mention it the next time he uses the saw.

[@LyallPearce]

Just wondering what happened to the stoker engine :)

[@georgeleibert3614]

Of all the 6-jaw chucks out there, which would you like to have for which lathe?

[@lineshaftrestorations7903]

Nice to see half-nuts in operation. I've seen some threading videos where the half-nut was left engaged and the lathe reversed to return for the next cut. The wind-up of the gear train and dragging the work across the tool would cause more problems than anything else.

[@electronerd]

ISTR it has to be done that way on some lathes. Forget why though.

[@marcsimonsen1578]

@@electronerd Short answer: Typically it's done when threading metric threads on a lathe with an imperial lead screw. Some lathes also do not have a threading dial (without it, threads are nearly impossible to pick back up once the half-nuts have been disengaged). Example: I've got a Graziano SAG 210 with a 3/8" pitch lead screw. It'll cut both metric and imperial threads using the provided gearbox, but if you cut metric, you can only disengage the half-nut if you re-engage it in the exact same spot. Adam Booth (abom79) has done an excellent video on threading metric with an imperial lathe. I also back the cutter away from the work when running back. If you don't, the backlash in all the gears and screws will cause your cutter to impact the work, probably destroying both. Additionally, you don't typically run material backward across carbide 99 % of the time, it'll break the carbide (HSS is a lot more forgiving in this regard).

[@electronerd]

@@marcsimonsen1578 yeah, the missing threading dial in particular sounds familiar, thanks

[@passenger6735]

@@electronerd Some lathes don't have the thread dial fitted so the only way to ensure it remains in the groove is to keep it engaged all the time and simply reverse the machine. The metric Colchester Chipmaster for instance.

[@kenrollinger2577]

how you fealing?????? your looking good

[@PatrickPoet]

If the fit hadn't been right and you had to cut the thread a little deeper, how do you get it rechucked and aligned so the single point cutter aligns with the threads again? I'm pretty sure you covered that before but these brain cells don't recall things as well as fifty years ago. Also, should you ever run out of projects (hah!) it would be nice if you did a tutorial series, a few videos, with everything you needed to know about single point threading on a lathe, standard, reverse, acme, including how to look things up in a machinist's handbook for each thing you cover. Just dreamin' but it would be nice to have all that information in one series.

[@artszabo1015]

Perfection!

[@lnbbnj3879]

FYI CNMA434 Grade CG99, Flat Top w/No Chip Breaker will help eliminate the spring back you get when machining bronze material.

[@greglaroche1753]

Great video. Thanks. What insert did you use to cut acme threads?

[@michaelsanzo5867]

Notice the splashguard in front of the chuck, keeps the brass from spraying everywhere, like your face, because it will

[@ericsandberg3167]

Lets see, Acme thread-check....Left hand thread-check.....Internal thread-check...It doesn't get much more demanding than that. and Ketih makes another perfect part.

[@accuracymark]

That half nut engagement has a huge throw on that monarch

[@billmckillip1561]

Nice.

[@jpsimon206]

I have been so smitten with this machine for several years now, this is the worst time possible and yet I cannot resist, if anybody knows of an HBM, in decent shape, doesn't have to hold a thou, but functional, and accessible to the Pacific Northwest, please let me know what you have and what you want for it. I'm in the middle of downsizing possibly, mostly getting rid of woodworking equipment, so I'm open to trade or cash. But I'm specifically looking for manual machines from the 40s give or take. If it was a Lucas, I would certainly be willing to pay a premium. Please feel free to respond to this comment if you know of a machine somewhere around 5K or less. Thanks for your time, and I hope this does not offend you, Keith. Between you showing this machine and this old Tony showing the opus die filer, something I have virtually no use for yet must have, I feel you guys have to share some degree of blame, I believe it's called codependence these days, haha

[@ypop417]

Nice job Keith you will be ready for the stroker engine in no time.

[@paulcopeland9035]

stoker

[@MHolt3573]

You could make an hour long show and we would still watch it.

[@jerrywilson9730]

Cool!

[@victorreppeto7050]

Why don't you create a double cross slide nut with ears for screws you can use to bring them together in order to eliminate backlash? Nobody seems to bother with such a setup. I wonder why not.

[@nkelly.9]

Another triumph Keith, over materials and machinery that perpetually conspire to find new ways to confound us. Keith 1 phosphor bronze 0

[@wdhewson]

Does kerosene help when machining bronze ??

[@jeromeellis668]

Do you get heat diflectiion using brass versus steel? I’m trying to understand the difference between metals. Watching cuts on metals, sometimes the operator lets metal cool down for final cuts. Jerome Manhattan Ks.

[@The_DuMont_Network]

Do you no longer work at the museum? I miss the occasional sound of the steam engine.

[@mikeking7470]

Was the threading bar "chirping" because of flex in the threading bar?

[@tropifiori]

How can you tell berrylium bronze from regular bronze or brass?

[@brianharris4731]

Why not run the lathe normal forward rotation and have the tool feed from the chuck out. A lot more safe.

[@chuckinwyoming8526]

A requirement for older threaded spindle and chuck. Taper lock chucks work CW or CCW but right hand threaded chucks tend to drop off in your lap with CCW!

[@brianharris4731]

@@chuckinwyoming8526 Precisely and my Boxford falls into that category. That is why I do LH internal threads from the back of the workpiece and can run the lathe at a higher speed to get a better finish, without having to crap my pants about disengaging the feed.

[@chuckinwyoming8526]

@@brianharris4731 Yes my post war (1868) Putnam 18X60 or 9" Southbend (1951) would never thread CCW. But locking chucks are nice and can work in reverse, I agree and would have threaded the other way even with a modern lathe spindle.

[@paulcopeland9035]

@@chuckinwyoming8526 "post war (1868)" ??!! Yikes! Post civil war and in use! You don't hear that often. You should post some pictures or better yet some video! It must be a spectacular machine. I believe a lot of people would love to see how you have that set up to work. Nicely done. 154 years old! I can't get over this.

[@chuckinwyoming8526]

@@paulcopeland9035 Yes Paul, patent date 1868 but from what I could find out I think it was made in 1874. It is fairly standard design. Threading screw and half nut is VERY INCONVENIENTLY located on the back side of the bed. You have to reach over the saddle and work piece to operate it. I suppose it was intended to be a 2 man operation. One to engage the screw and one to move the cross feed and compound. Probably you just engaged it and ran the spindle forward and reverse when threading. A conventional keyed feed shaft is on the front of the bed behind the apron for power cross and carriage feed. It also has a carriage lock knob. The other rather odd thing is the saddle cross feed screw. It was a 3/4" - 6 pitch LH thread. Well LH thread is normal and that is a standard pitch for 3/4" but figure out how you scribe a micrometer dial for 1/6 inch per turn......166.6666_ divisions! It did NOT have a dial!! How do you measure the cut diameter???? Compound did have a dial and was 5 pitch with 200 division dial. The cross feed screw was really worn and the bronze nut would hop the screw in the middle. So when I restored it I had to make a new screw and nut. (on another lathe) I did NOT restore it to 6 pitch but single pointed a 3/4 - 5 pitch. Then made a 200 division micrometer dial and new screw support bearing - thrust base behind the dial that threads into the carriage. It came with a 16" 4 jaw chuck, big face plate, full set of change gears, lantern tool post and Armstrong 1/2" tool holders, dead center, live pipe center and drill chuck for tail stock (odd taper I haven't identified). Mounted a 3 ph motor on line shaft for the step pulley shaft.

[@jamesdavis8021]

Good job,Keith.Too bad the lead screw is so long,test fitting to the bushing is not possible but,that is a very nice fit. I would be happy with that,also.

[@littleworkshopofhorrors2395]

If you started from an over sized hole should you have not gone the full 125 in feed? Strikes me your thread is oversized by the amount you over bored to.

[@BedsitBob]

Just what I was thinking. The .125" DOC only applies to a bore of 1.500". With the bore at .017" oversize, the DOC should be reduced by .0085". Also, for a 4 TPI thread, can't you engage the half nut at any point on the threading dial?

[@littleworkshopofhorrors2395]

When i cut that style of thread i go to max diameter and widen the thread for best fit on the shaft, but then i feed radially not flank. Going to full diameter gives you a starting point that is known so you dont have to guess how much deeper you have to cut for the fit you want. But that is judt me being me.😉

[@catfishgray3696]

TELL EVERYBODY HELLO, PET THE CATS AN DOGS, GREAT VIDEO, LET'S GO TO WORK...

[@daveanderson2316]

"And" the word you are looking for is "and". Why look like a dope over one letter? The mind boggles...

[@catfishgray3696]

@@daveanderson2316 DAVE GLAD YOU GOT THAT...

[@jpsimon206]

I'm not at all critical of it, but I've noticed that when you take a turning cut, you almost never retract the tool to rapidly traverse it back towards the tail stock. Logically this makes sense because any mark it makes is a sign of deflection and will disappear after a spring cut. Despite this, most lathe operators retract the tools slightly before rapidly traversing or the dig deeper to make use of the return stroke. I never had any formal education, I learned on the job so to speak. I feel like I was taught that your method was potentially hard on the insert, but that doesn't seem to gel intellectually; the insert is carefully designed on both sides and tends to like somewhat rough treatment in my experience compared to HSS. So, without any criticism, is this just habit? Do you have a theory behind it? Is it as simple as you don't believe it causes any damage and the spring cut will necessarily hide it? I noticed slight behavioral differences amongst machinists that I respect and admire, I'm not trying to waste your time, I'm hoping to learn from your response. Thanks very much for what you do, I use your website often.

[@oldiron4135]

Well, from what I see, its what they call deflection or springback from your cut. You can hear him say on one measurment he took he was dead on at 1.500" at the end and closer to the chuck he was at 1.499". To me, this is a clear sign he isnt using tail support. It can still happen on heavier cuts, and a spring cut or most generally a light cut will clean it up. As far as being hard on the tool, this is bronze, if it was a harder like steel steel, I wouldnt do it, but he does it all the time, so it's became his style. A lot of work from before the 50's, you'd see a lot of this. Older tractor pistons are notorious for a big spiral going from the center outwards and thats because they went in on a really heavy cut and backed it out fast leaving the spiral cut. That was production work then and if you didnt have to make a movement, you didnt. Thats how they speeded up production work.

[@jamesconner8275]

I thought those were spring passes, not scratch passes.

[@famrichards]

1,667g

[@lastnightsdinner]

Guys only want one thing and it's disgusting 22:55 Nice work.

[@daveanderson2316]

Scratch pass = spring pass.

[@kimber1958]

BROVO