Hot Spring heater relay board replacement

[@eurik]

Hey Craig, just want to say this video, along with the rest of them on the Hot Springs Spa, empowered me fix our 2007 hot tub we inherited. Followed this video step by step to replace the heater relay board which was the main culprit for the tub not heating. You saved us hundreds of dollars my friend. Thank you. Keep doing you.

[@epd2123]

Thanks, this was very useful. Got my hot tub working!

[@tonycarey1808]

Craig - can't thank you enough for your expertise! Just replaced the heater without diagnosing, because previous owner said it had stopped heating. I put in the new heater into my Prodigy H 2007, with no problem, but to find blinking lights...then I see your video, go test the circuit, sure enough, zilch, so I unbolt everything and burned out just like in your video. New one gets here Monday - will be up and running in 15 minutes. Love it - not bad for a $500 good hot springs!

[@craigsmith5025]

Now, the blinking lights don't mean burnt relay board, they mean flow error. If your new heater is a PDR style w/o a wire to the PRESSURE SWITCH connection, and your old heater had one, snip the wires short at the old heater's plug, strip and twist the wires together to make a bypass jumper plug, plugged into the PRESSURE SWITCH pluggin. DO NOT TRY TO WIRE THE PRESSURE SWITCH WIRE INTO THE NEW HEATER. there is no pressure switch inside, just a 240 volt resetting relay.

[@kgpuzio]

Thanks so much for this video. I really appreciate you making such a helpful and clear video. I had a similar issue where everything was running but no heat. Sure enough, I removed the board and the same spot was fried. I have a 2006 HotSprings Prodigy Model H. I just ordered 77119 and will try to replace the board when it comes in. I would normally have my local hot tub place, which is great, do the work, but they are 4 weeks out for service calls now because they are closing down all the pools for the season. Your video gave me the confidence to see if I could figure it out myself.

[@dangrant9116]

Thank you! I was able to get my hot tub running thanks to your video!!!

[@ebshangraw]

@craigsmith5025 I like how thorough you are. Thank you. Very helpful. I’m having a hard time finding some info I’m looking for and you seem very knowledgeable. I have a mid 2000’s hot spring spa 240v dual breaker. It had a bad control board and had no functions or display. I replaced the control board and now I have a display, jets, light, and circulation. I also replaced the two sensors that go into the heater. The water temp is cold but I’m not sure it’s calling for heat. On the control board the red heater led is not lit up. I used a volt meter to test the wires going into the heater from the heater relay board and I have zero volts. I verified the breaker and input voltage are good. Any suggestions? Is my control board not commanding the relay board to send power to the heater? Or do I have a bad heater relay board? I’m not sure how to test this. Any information or a point in the right direction would be so helpful. Thank you very much!

[@Jay-ur3dq]

Glad I found your page, awesome videos.

[@arockingroupie]

What leds should be on to let us know it is functioning properly?

[@thomasgabre4816]

Thank you for the clip Craig. It is so helpful. I found my hot tub relay burnt and I am replacing mine. Where do you get the three terminal jumpers?

[@craigsmith5025]

The new board comes with 2 triple power jumpers. On a large strictly 230v spa you won't use them. On a 115/230 convertible wired 230 you'll use a double snipped from a triple. And on a 115v spa with cord you'll do what I did here.

[@kelchen1980]

Hello Craig, great videos! I think I have the same problem that this video is about, but I thought I would check with you first. I am getting a buzzing noise from the control panel when I turn the power on. Everything seems to be working until about 30 seconds in, I hear a click and the red light starts flashing. The buzzing continues. But again, I have the LED lights as explained in your video. There is also a red LED light labeled D17, that is lit as well. With this info, do you feel like it's a relay board?

[@kelchen1980]

Disregard. I think it's all good now. After scouring the comment section on all the videos, I was able to trouble shoot further. I had just installed a new heater and hadn't ensure good water flo before flipping the breaker for the heater back on. Ran just the pumps for a bit and then turned the heater on. Everything is working like it should.

[@someperson4712]

How do you get the wires back in the slots easily? You made it loof effortless. Also any tips for large stranded wires being used? When I took it out the first time, I didn't even need to use a small standard screw driver to take those wires out cuz they were just layed in there not tight. I got a roughly 8 gauge stranded wires for the 220v, then small black, red, blue and white for the rest.

[@craigsmith5025]

Look at my other video on wiring tips. Click VIDEOS on my channel, I posted wiring tips a few months back.

[@arockingroupie]

I had to press reaaaallllyyy hard up and it opened

[@kevintaylor8832]

Thank you! We have a Hotsprings Soveriegn and it's heating up to 90 degrees when set at 100. I have cleaned filters. Does that sound like a heater board?

[@craigsmith5025]

Well, that depends. In cold northern states, a heater relay board would have your water ice cold. Is yours a 2001 to early 2009? Is your HEATER ON red LED on the board lit? Do you have good voltage in at 1&3 and no voltage out at heater connections?

[@edwardgeorgiu1921]

Great Video. I have a spa nearly identical to this.. I have no heat with a new heater. The heat demand light on the main board is dark. Also both lights blink on the control panel. HELP. Thanks.

[@craigsmith5025]

My channel has three videos on not heating situations. One is specifically for both POWER and READY lights flashing.

[@kgpuzio]

In the video, the last 2 wires are not terminated. Does the black wire go on H1 or H2?

[@craigsmith5025]

It doesn't matter. The heater wires connect to H1 and H2. Which one goes where doesn't matter.

[@kgpuzio]

Thank you!

[@kevinlewis5101]

Hi Craig, mine has the 240v (all 5 wires) so on the old board there's a black wire in #2, with the new board and black heater wire going into H1 what happens to the original black wire that was in slot 2? thx

[@craigsmith5025]

Everything that was 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 on the old board, is same numbers as the new. Only thing is heater cord goes in H1 & H2 instead of push on terminals like the old boards.

[@kevinlewis5101]

@@craigsmith5025 Got it! thanks ordering board now.

[@craigsmith5025]

Keep in mind, this video is for PUG systems 2001-early 2009. After 2009 they were 7 input Orca then Eagle systems. Relay boards for those are totally different. If your old one had 1-5, the new one has 1-5 and the H1/H2. 1-7 inputs are different and won't work replacing one with 5 inputs.

[@mfsmfs63]

You don't talk about the 12v / 18v jumper at the top left of the new style heater relay board. How do I know how to set it if my main board does not have a similar jumper? My spa is 220v.

[@craigsmith5025]

@@mfsmfs63 the 12v/18v jumper instructions come with the new relay board. In a nutshell, replacing the relay board on an old main board, you don't touch it. But if you have a newer style main board, you set them both to match... it's in the instructions.

[@mfsmfs63]

@@craigsmith5025 I've replaced the relay board twice. Red Heat on light and green limit OK lights on motherboard. Only get one red light on the new relay board, no voltage to heater.

[@craigsmith5025]

@mfsmfs63 what's the voltage in at inputs 1 & 3? Put the meter probes in the square slots above the round wire holes.

[@mfsmfs63]

@@craigsmith5025 110v each

[@saulmordaunt6576]

Hi craig, Just replaced damaged heater board I don't think it's heating. There is a little flashing red led on the heater relay board itself (the old style board didn't have a led) I wondering what it means? and if it's a clue

[@craigsmith5025]

You have proper power input at 1 and 3? How about 2&4? Neutral on 5?

[@saulmordaunt6576]

Hi Craig, Thanks for the reply. I am in Australia so I have a 240 V 50 Hz model. I have a new style heater really board (77119)and I have + on 1 and - on 4 and the heater going into H1 and H2. I'm pretty sure it's correct and conforms to what you showed in your video.The heater works fine, if I power it directly from AC although it has a resistance of 36 ohms for some reason. Everything seems correct but the relays do not switch the heater on and there is that flashing red D9 led (I also have the jumpers set up with the middle pin removed from the left hand one and 3 prongs intact on the right @@craigsmith5025

[@DIYFixitDad]

Is there a place to get less pricey parts Watkins

[@craigsmith5025]

If you buy online, you may THINK you're getting the right part. But a Hot Spring dealer will help you get exactly what you need if you have your spa serial number. And if you happen upon a service tech at the dealer, you'll likely get helpful tips.

[@zboy1771]

Hi Craig thank you for the awesome videos! I've tried to figure this out by watching your videos but am still not sure what I'm dealing with. I have a blinking power light, and a solid red light on the "control unplugged" and another one down by the "appliance controls" - but I've never unplugged anything. Also no solid green lights anywhere. Any advice for me? Thank you.

[@craigsmith5025]

CONTROL UNPLUGGED means communication problem between main board and control panel. Usually it is because a mouse has chewed the flat ribbon cable coming out of the bottom of the control panel. They sit on that 2X2 board up there and chew it. Or the control panel has died. Very rare is LED light at main light lens getting wet, causing total control system glitch.

[@zboy1771]

@@craigsmith5025 thank you. Is the fix a new control panel?

[@craigsmith5025]

@@zboy1771 You'd be amazed what is behind hot tub shops in their junk pile. I think in back of my area, there are 2 tubs with that very panel, ready to be scrapped to the dump. Check your local hot tub shops for their junkers out back. Have a $5 or $10 bill ready for them if they actually help you retrieve something off a junker of theirs.

[@craigsmith5025]

If the ribbon cable is chewed, that can be replaced. Some joker on Ebay is selling them for $99, what a ripoff.

[@zboy1771]

I checked the ribbon and it's good from top to bottom. No mouse interference. Was hoping that was it. Maybe a bad control Panel?

[@joemabis9098]

Hey Craig, I have 6 gauge wire coming in from my power supply - will 6 gauge wire fit into the grey terminal block? The wiring diagram calls out 10 gauge so I want to make sure this will work with the 6 gauge wire that is currently run. Thanks!

[@craigsmith5025]

If you remove a few strands it will. But don't remove too many. I'm sure it was what was available. But when overkill is a choice, it is just unnecessary and harder to do.

[@mykemech]

Him Craig! I have this exact tub and I have never been able to get it to function. Would it be possible to pm you to learn a bit about how to test components on the boards such as relays and the transformer, etc? I cannot find any resources or descriptions. I am decently educated in electronics and also mechanics, but this seems to have me flummoxed. Thank you sir!

[@craigsmith5025]

I have other videos that explain simple causes for flashing light errors. Aside from that, is it completely dead? Sometimes wiring it wrong to your model is the problem. Sometimes someone mis wires it and blows the board. Tell me exactly what it's doing or not doing. I can help from there. Otherwise 99% chance what you are seeking is in one of my videos.

[@craigsmith5025]

In a nut shell... heater power alone is 2 hots in inputs 1 and 3. No neutral from that breaker. The other breaker powers the rest of the spa. 120v components and electronics is powered by a hot on 2 and a neutral on 5. The 240v pumps get their power from that hot on 2 and the other hot on 4. If you accidentally connected hots on 2 and 5, you blow the motherboard power supply. Smaller spas that are convertible 120/240 are a bit confusing so I won't get into it. Test voltage at those points. 240 across hots 1&3, 240 across 2&4. 120 across 2&5, 120 across 4&5. Zero volts across 5 & ground.

[@craigsmith5025]

If you have the exact tub in the video, the 120v jumpers connect neutral to 3,4 and 5. And the hot is on 1 and 2. So you should be reading 120v across those 2 groupings in any combination. Sorry for wasting time covering dual breaker spas in previous replies. Those spas outnumber 120v spas 20 to 1.

[@craigsmith5025]

If you have no power at spa, but power at 120v 20A dedicated outlet, you could have a bad gray GFCI plug.

[@craigsmith5025]

Sometimes a person thinks that the sideways prong on the 120v 20A plug means 240v. If your sideways prong outlet got incorrectly wired 240v, the board was likely blown.

[@apjack2553]

Craig, Thx for the vids! But I'm at a loss. Hotsprings Landmark 220v, Heater good resistance, new 77119 relay seated, circ. pump blowing bubbles, red/green lights on main and relay ON. No power at H1-H2. I have a feeling like I'm missing something or the new relay is bad. Any help appreciated .

[@craigsmith5025]

You got good input voltage from your 30A breaker inputs 1 & 3?

[@apjack2553]

@@craigsmith5025 Yes, 121v. Heater - no power. Am I suppose to have a jumper/s installed? (The directions are confusing re 220v setup).

[@craigsmith5025]

@@apjack2553 you are supposed to have 240v across 1 and 3. If you have one dead leg, you will read 120v between one leg and ground/neutral, but bad voltage reading on the 2 legs together.(120+120=240)

[@craigsmith5025]

@@apjack2553 find me on face book in Muskego, and send me pics of your breakers and relay board wiring in messenger. Something may be amiss.

[@matthewcarmichael3370]

What if my board shows 0v going to the heater but the board is not burnt out?

[@craigsmith5025]

Check voltage in at 1&3. If the LIM OK and HEATER ON indicator LEDs are lit on the main board, you should have power out to the heater connections. If your call for heat is being interrupted, something else could be going on.

[@rogerrobarge3517]

Great Videos! I was told everything worked but the tub would only heat to 80 degrees and consequently the tub has been sitting for 5-6 years. After reviewing the videos Ive deduced that the relay board needs to be replaced...any tips on where to purchase? Also, the hot tub has been idle for several years, any thoughts on the restart process? Incidentally, the tub is a 2008 Vanguard which appears to be the same model demonstrated in your videos. Again, thank you!

[@rogerrobarge3517]

Found it on Amazon.

[@georgenikolos8391]

@@rogerrobarge3517 ?

[@mumbojohnson87]

I have 2007 Hot Springs vista with the exact same blown heater relay board. Is this updated board best. What part number? I have local shops trying to Sell me the old three relay board?

[@craigsmith5025]

I think it's a part number 77119 for PUG IQ2020 control systems. The ones with 3 blue relays are ok, the ones with 3 black relays before that suck. The latest 2 relay version like in my video have the best track record. They made like 4 revisions between 2007-2014.

[@myrond3588]

I'm trying to get my 2014 Model TX going. It won't heat and was dropped maybe 6" on the board side getting put in place and was confirmed working before. I figure the element broke and when metering it I do get a complete open. Just to be safe I filled the tub again and have no voltage to the heating element when it should be calling for heat. The element being open seems to be a problem but I am hesitant to order the heater or a new element when it has no voltage to the element. Everything else is running fine and the lights on the board are green. Any suggestions? Can I replace just the element or do I need the entire heater assembly?

[@craigsmith5025]

I'd disconnect the wires to the heater's cube pressure switch, and with the pump on low calling for heat, see if there's continuity through the pressure switch with a digital meter. Also, confirm it is wired properly. Those are 115/230 convertible. There are things to configure in the control box to match how it's wired. If it was 230 and you now got it 115, there is a jumper and logic to change.

[@myrond3588]

@@craigsmith5025 You got it spot on. I was too tired when doing it last night. The element is 17ohms. I watched some more vids and concluded the pressure switch was a possibility and after ohming it running and not it showed open both ways. I jumpered it and it is warming as a type. Thanks a ton for your response, a true gem of the internet and KZbin.

[@craigsmith5025]

@Myron D thanks. Now that pressure switch is a failsafe to protect your heater from destroying itself with flow or pump issues. Jumping is a good troubleshooting and temporary fix. But tape a sheet of plastic over the circuit board to the heater body behind the pressure switch. That way when you unscrew the old and install the Teflon taped new, you keep the electronics dry when water sprays doing the swap. Careful not to cross-thread... gentle feel and alignment to thread it in straight. I do it on full spas all the time.

[@08dust]

Hi Craig. I have a 2004 Vanguard that had a blown relay on the heater board. I replaced the board, and it blew another relay. After double checking for correct install I am completely certain all connections were made properly. Any ideas on what may have caused this?

[@craigsmith5025]

It's possible that you put in a power jumper that shorted something out if it blew right away. Heater input power comes in from the breaker on 1 and 3, and goes out to heater on H1 and H2. Or if it blew the relay over several months time, it's possible you got an older style board or a defective board. Did your new one look like the new one in the video?

[@TalentNetworked]

Anyone know why the Jets and Clean function won’t come on after changing the Neat Relay Board? Was working prior to the change. So odd.

[@craigsmith5025]

Possible power jumper wasn't put in, or wiring error. Does the relay on the bigger board click?

[@TalentNetworked]

@@craigsmith5025 yes it clicks. Jumpers weren’t put in. I thought they were clips to hold the board in place if needed. Ha. Thanks so much for your help. And for the video

[@rickbaldwin5042]

My original board has a jumper on 4/5. I have wires on 1,h1,2,3,4 is blank and the common on 5.. do I need any jumpers? Everything is working but now all a sudden my jet pump isn’t working. I get 120v when I hit the power for jets… please tell me my jet pump went bad all a sudden?

[@rickbaldwin5042]

Wish I could send video/photos

[@craigsmith5025]

Yes, you need that jumper to carry the #5 neutral over to #4. You have a convertible spa... Jetsetter, Prodigy, older Sovereign. The jet pump is 115V. So you need that jumper.

[@rickbaldwin5042]

@@craigsmith5025 I have a hot springs…

[@rickbaldwin5042]

@@craigsmith5025 so if I have zero jumpers it’s heats, works. But my jet pump don’t.. I put that jumper at 4-5 and the lower lights just blinks red, and nothing at all works

[@rickbaldwin5042]

I don’t even have a wire in #4

[@cjbean7559]

Where is the best place to buy it

[@craigsmith5025]

If you can't find it on ebay, your local hot spring dealer. P/N 77119. It should be about $190 at the dealer.

[@andrewnoia5122]

Hey what if my Display screen isn’t getting power what should I do

[@craigsmith5025]

More details. The screen like the control panel in the video, or the newer LCD TV screen display? Is the CONTROL UNPLUGGED indicator lit on the main board? Is the panel totally dead, or blinking red or green light on it? Keep in mind, the display screens go dark if the panels are left alone for a while.

[@apjack2553]

I do have 221v between 1-3. See above video. KZbin doesn't seem to want me to give you contact information in the other conversation. Couldn't find you on Facebook so I try to send you email and text number.

[@craigsmith5025]

By chance do you have a newer replacement mother board in the IQ box? If you have a new 77087 board, and a new relay board, they must be matched in coil voltage per the install instructions.

[@apjack2553]

@@craigsmith5025 Mother board is 77000.

[@apjack2553]

@@craigsmith5025 I accidentally left it on last night and I came out and it was 80° where I had it set. So now we'll see if it'll get up to 100 degrees. I called Spa Pros last week and left a an inquiry message. Today's he shows up at my house with an order written out, cost me $140. I told him there was nothing for him to do but he fixed the check valve that wasn't broke. The idiot sucked in some hydrochloric acid from the ozonator. He goes that was stupid. Anyway thank you much for the help, hopefully it gets to 100 degrees!