How Accurate is your 3D Printer? Take the Tolerance Test!

Find out how accurate your 3D Printer is by Printing the Maker's Muse Tolerance Gauge! This model has small gaps that are difficult to achieve - how low can you go?
Get the file here - gumroad.com/l/OxKwn
Share your results here - / makersmuse
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[@TheEvilVargon]

That 0.05mm offset is easy! Just scale the model by 500%

[@MakersMuse]

Cheating!!! lol

[@toothy]

discord.gg/ACPjd4

[@inventor121]

0.05 is easy, well with resin printer i have anyway

[@adamh2077]

@@inventor121 that's also cheating

[@fatfat6389]

@Astro_Alphard It will not be worth it for you as it will be a much more expensive fidget spinner.

[@Prusa3D]

Glad to be a benchmark ;-) We did good considering I never saw the filaments you used 😎

[@r4yker442]

Waaaait... Owner on the chat? Holy... your 3D printers are still the best 😁

[@super1337bf3ordie]

why do you put your name on everything

[@ElliotL]

@@super1337bf3ordie lol

[@ElliotL]

i have a ender 3 and think its better than the prusa i3 mk3 but i dont know so send me a prusa i3 mk3 so i know if its better! 😁

[@andrewsantora7943]

oh shidd waddup

[@CNCKitchen]

Really nice test part, Angus! Just make sure that you have your extrusion multiplier set up properly before these tests because small overextrusion will already screw up your tolerances even though the part still looks fine. Keep it up!

[@lukecunningham8793]

ive seen multiple tolerance test videos, and i get pretty decent tolerances for what my printers are. What i dont see is how to improve these tolerances specifically. A video on this would be much appreciated

[@TinkerTotems]

This is amazing! I was planning on getting my printer tuned in quite a bit more over the next few weeks now that schools done for the semester and I have a bit more free time. Great timing on this video and thanks for making it free for a week!

[@LazerLord10]

Lol, I didn't know it was free so I put $1 in to get it. Keep up the good work! I'll see how close I can get with my 0.2mm nozzle.

[@MakersMuse]

Thanks dude! Let me know what a 0.2mm nozzle is capable of

[@LazerLord10]

Considering I could print this miniature for D&D with it, I wouldn't be surprised if I can get the 0.1mm gap to work. Then again, my extruder is kinda crappy. i.redd.it/72uqf3kou9ly.gif

[@Marc83Aus]

This is the highest quality small print I've ever seen out of a .2mm nozzle, d2py9w124w2itd.cloudfront.net/photo/image/700x0/5583ac2e25284/Tree%20Frog%20Keyboard.JPG That was done with a $3000 dollar printer, .25mm nozzle, and 40 micron layers. Theres a lot of variables that you need to get absolutely perfect for something like that. I'm just hoping my Tronxy can print adequately :p

[@DoubleMotherLess]

price doesnt mean a shit here, and ive done somthing more tinny, in the pic you will see a big manatee focused at the "background", this one is 0.4 nozzle, the other one focused is the tinny one, if you notice the unfocused, you will see a air coming out from the hole, just scaled. its 1cm from head to tail :) even did 0.5 one LOL but so tinny couldnt even touch it. by the way, the material is glow in the dark, pretty cool gift for my gf :) :P subefotos.com/ver/?0dca2d74829ad4132a01885a5155d393o.jpg

[@RAMII19780529]

Thanks for making these videos. I really appreciate all the work you put into these and I really look forward to each video. I found that reducing the extrusion multiplier to the point right before the print starts to show gaps on the surfaces works really well to get accurate parts, which is key when testing to tolerance, in my opinion.

[@jellyfishbubgum]

That's it. You're an absolute genius. I honestly gasped at how awesome it was that you made the test print become a functional item!! Just. Freaking. Awesome.

[@kikconzuelo]

I really love solid 3D printing benchmarks, please keep making more of them, thanks for the video

[@KungFuClimber]

great! I've been waiting for this video since your last live feed.

[@tylerdemott829]

i love calibration/test models. i have the anet a8 and im constantly looking to push i to the max. these things help immensely when tweaking settings or getting a new brand of filament

[@roboterson]

Tyler DeMott I have one to! live it but I need to work on getting my over hangs better. can't wait to try this or

[@shadycreekfarms9485]

my anet has issues

[@roboterson]

ShadyCreekFarm's Josh Alexander like what? by buying a anet a8 you kinda signed up for a few instances where you need to use problem solving.

[@jab2go69barrett8]

Dangerous printer

[@user2C47]

@@jab2go69barrett8 In what way? Most of the issues I've seen were either bad builds, or bad firmware configuration. Mine has not had any safety issues over the past 2 years.

[@Waterphantom]

Thank you for this great file. I will test it on my Prusa i3. Your videos are perfect! Greetings from Germany

[@notabotgaming4622]

Thank you for designing a tolerance guage. I haven't gotten my printer yet, this will help me out a lot! Keep it up, and thanks again.

[@AbuzzDesigns]

Thank you so much for this! I'm printing it in just a few minutes!

[@MakersMuse]

Woo! Keen to see how you go

[@Randomboy2002]

Your printing it in just a few minuets?! That’s one fast printer! Jk

[@jamalmahroof3298]

Is it done yet?

[@Floydarn]

It's still printing in 0.0000001 mm layers! 🙃

[@cahmikes]

Thank you for this! I'm a bit new to 3D printing and have had a lot of trouble with hole measurements. It took me 8 versions of the same part to get it right. With this, hopefully I'll achieve a successful build with more confident measurements and less waste in both filament and time. It's also cool that it doubles as a fidget spinner!

[@arturo7228]

I insist, your channel is the best with important content in the world of 3d printing. Congratulations, you're the best.

[@joshualawton57]

I don't even have a 3D printer. Why am I watching this

[@MakersMuse]

You might get one one day? Thanks for watching!

[@c4garula]

dude same

[@claymonroe7806]

Same.

[@thejavaman53]

with question mark.

[@slowburntm3584]

I don't own a sword or a dragon, but yet I watch Game of Thrones...

[@johngordon6689]

Hello Angus, you Rock as an information source! I appreciate that this tool is available for free; as a new hobbyist 3D FDM printer I have stalked your channel and several others who provide information about how to design, modify, and print in FDM 3D. I am very thankful for your thoughtful and informative videos.

[@Supercazzola]

I bought the c2 for $2 and this one is even better. thanks for the videos and designs !

[@buildersmark]

Another great tutorial! Angus you're the master.

[@AndrewAlexander76]

Yay! I can finally try to print something in your videos because I finally have a 3D printer!

[@NateTDOM]

"It makes a fidget spinner" *Internal Screaming Intensifies*

[@gallopinggoose6891]

Angus WHY????????????????

[@NeoMorphUK]

I remember back when fidget spinners were a thing... for five minutes... then there were millions of unwanted spinners glutting the market.

[@brantleyfarmer6223]

Pulling up on an old video but just HAD to chime in. I was able to get to .2 tolerance with easy spin initially on my stock Sidewinder X2 and could eventually get the .15 tolerance after applying a little force with the key. Initial test was printed at 0.2mm layer height from a 0.6mm nozzle and the second test where I could break free the .15 tolerance was printed at a .16mm layer height. Fantastic object and love your videos! I've been following you since my forray into 3D printing.

[@DCDLaserCNC]

Great idea and design on your tolerance guage. Thank you for sharing. Now to try it on my cheap 3D printer to see what I can expect for tolerances with it.

[@asalottin]

You sir are an absolute genius! Congrats and thanks!

[@chanhien4000]

Getting my i3 mk2 unit in a month, glad to see I made a right decision.

[@DarthPotatoMagic]

I don't own a 3D Printer and really never had any bigger interest in them. But damn, I watched 4 of your videos now and now i have to get a 3D printer. I like it how you make 3D printing look so interesting. Thanks!

[@valyshknee4203]

My Son Has a 3D Printer And It Worked Thanks For Making This Video!

[@JimmyNahlousVisuals]

This is awesome man!

[@josephcraig8807]

Thank you so much for making the model free for a little bit especially for people who don't normally by these sorts of things thanks

[@MakersMuse]

My pleasure. I appreciate you subscribing!

[@linsyb]

I'm a dutch orthopedic technologist student and I'm surprised how interested and fascinated I get watching this. We are going to start working with 3D-printers next year and probably will never make anything close to this but its very interesting. ps I was distracted the whole video by the few hairs sticking out x3 very cute

[@BenEBrady]

I was more than glad to pay a $1 for this model. It gives me valuable information about the capabilities of my printer and the settings I'm using in my slicer software. I've printed it 3 times now with different settings as I'm learning how to get my printer dialed in as best as I can.

[@valveman12]

Maker's Muse I was looking for a tolerance gauge so thank you.

[@pedersandelin9490]

Great work and a fun challange Angus!! Mine came out spinning directly on .5,.4,.3 and after using the key I also got .2 and .15 going. I have (the new) Fabtikator mini V2, PETG on 250/50C, .2 layer height, 100% extrusion, 145% first layer, 3 perimeters and 40% infill. I'm happy with that :).

[@spikekent]

Awesome test Angus, well worth $5 to me, even though you didn't ask for it. Being the proud owner of a MK2, I'm always keen to test it's (or my) tolerances. I'll post my results later. Wish I could be at the BAMF too. Have a great time mate.

[@fierceflyer5]

Thanks Angus, I was using the guess and print method

[@kyb7795]

I never understand anything his saying but am glad there's a channel for this sort of thing

[@Effect2o]

Sweet this is awesome!! When I get my B9 creator SLA up and running, I so want to do this and see how it does.

[@GH-hj5ys]

I usually go with 0.1mm gap plus a bit of sanding for an ultra tight fit, 0.2mm for a fairly tight fit by hand and 0.3mm gap as a good all round yet easy fit. So far so good haha!

[@eindecker2000]

I printed this and I found 0.3mm no problem, 0.2mm I had to bust loose with the key, and 0.15mm is frozen sold. Elegoo Neptune 4, 0.2mm nozzle standard settings (0.2mm layer thickness)

[@hjoore]

Hi Angus, top tip: put a 0.5mm chamfer on the bottom outer edge of your designs. This should become standard in 3D printing. It makes removing objects from print bed 10 times easier, plus you eliminate the issue of a squished bottom layer sticking out of the side walls and having to sand it off.

[@TraitorFelon.14.3]

hjoore Na. Use an MK3 with PEI and squishing eliminated by correct first layer.

[@nf794]

@@TraitorFelon.14.3 Whats PEI

[@TraitorFelon.14.3]

N F Polyetherimide A great surface for a printer. PLA sticks to it even with no heat, but prefers 40-50 Celcius. ABS sticks to it with a heated bed. The great thing is that the printed piece lets go of the PEI sheet when the bed has cooled down. Very rarely have I had to use force.

[@matrixinc.5495]

wow thanks so much. inspired me to fix a very intricate gear fidget spinner with faulty clearences

[@JohnCarver3]

Especially for the tighter gaps, material properties and geometry will have non-negligible effects (material shrink rates, wall thickness, temperature). It would be a good idea to do this with different materials/geometry as you will most likely get different results even on the same machine. In any case, this is an great way to help dial in your system and better understand it's l in limitations.

[@Cyribruz]

I just tested to print this on my Flux Delta+ which arrived this week. I saw your first review on it and did have similar issues with my first prints, especially with the white filament. But I then changed the settings a bit, especially lowered the temp to reduce stringing and lowered the speed a bit and then printed this one with the black filament. The result was pretty good, all the way down to 0.2 was free as I grabbed it off the plate and .15 was loosened with ease, no go on 0.1 and 0.05 though ;)

[@TheRussell747]

Can you do an update video on this on how to improve your results? My prusa mk3 that I assembled earlier this week was able to get the .2 but I want to see if I can improve it to 1.5 and just improve the quality of all prints in general.

[@santik555]

Mate You the best!!! Thanks a lot!

[@murderdoggg]

Thumbs up and +1 for adding the spinner function.

[@TheOnlyShasta9]

Printed on my Prusa i3 Mk2S. Sliced with Slic3r using standard settings, 0.15mm optimal print settings, rigid.ink PLA with Prusa PLA preset. 6h10m print time. 0.2 and above were free off the bed, 0.15 came free with a lot of effort but now turns quite freely. Thanks Angus, definitely worth $5! Going to try it again at 0.2mm layer height.

[@bryanho1777]

Good job Angus!

[@dim1723]

Thanks I was wondering about the different tolerances and what I should try to use in my 3d models.

[@brunomarques309]

Hi, and thanks for this great video! Did you make a video on how to make a printer more accurate when it comes to tolerance? What are the key factors to take into consideration when building/assembling a printer, in order to get the lowest tolerance possible? and if you didn't do you think it could be a good topic for your next video? :)

[@pirateman1966]

I love your channel.

[@6r4metroman]

I printed it this morning & it works. The only one that didn't turn by hand was the .5, I used the key and yes it freed up, all rotating. Ender 3 @.15 layer height :-)

[@Rygoat]

oh man cant wait to print this on the new 3d printer i got from Aldi this morning! Oh wait, they ran out of stock less then a minute after the door opened lol :(

[@KleinfeldTechnical]

Angus, Another great video! A general comment on tolerance and fit. This is independent of the issues specific to 3D printing. There are different types of fits between two parts, such as you discuss early in the video with your hinge (?). For example, two parts can have a force fit, a sliding fit, a loose fit, etc. This is a reflection of the specified size difference between them, as well as the accuracy of the production method. Data on this is published for machinists, and has been for decades. The required size difference between two parts varies with the type of fit desired, as well as the materials and the production method. The required size difference is also affected by the size of the part. For example (using made up numbers), a sliding fit for a 10 mm hole and shaft may be 0.1mm difference between the diameters, but a sliding fit for a 1000 mm hole and shaft may be 0.7mm.

[@JATMN]

Oh im trying this one!

[@digitalpaul]

Great test, I had a couple of shots at it second print I got the 0.15 to release although I had to get the multigrips onto it, the 0.2 released nicely with the key, I didn't bother with the 0.1 I expected that to be solid but the rest were free the moment it came off the bed.

[@Aircoookie]

Gotta print this right now! :)

[@syclops01]

Ok Angus I am printing your tolerance test on my maker select pro. Currently going to take 3 hers to print.

[@rossfisher323]

@makersmuse -- Cura 2 has a "horizontal expansion" setting which directly allows adjusting tolerances in the slicer. This is helpful when printing models without the source files available. I've applied a -0.1mm horizontal expansion offset and have seen dramatic improvements with my Taz 6 using eSUN PLA+ with a tolerance gauge print.

[@eTraxx]

Just printed the V3 on my Prusa i3 MK3 and got all down to .2 to turn with my hand. I printed the tool .. and darn if I didn't get the .15 to turn! the .1 and .05 are welded but I am pretty happy.

[@simonfitch1120]

I printed the tolerance gadget on my TronXY X8, with layer height of 0.1mm (5 hours!), and managed to free the 0.2mm wheel. I am using filament from a company called Sunlu. I've had good success with printing gears down to module 0.9mm.

[@FischOderAal]

Just printed it on my one week old Prusa i3 MK2S with Prusa Silver PLA and got 0.15 free. Very happy with the printer so far.

[@mrmann69]

I'll be trying this on my Ender 3, with and without help from your video about preventing stringing

[@MasterKaylock]

So after a long and nervous wait. Not wanting to see how bad my Tronxy x1 really is. I finally printed it. Only one fuse and only one needed to be broken free. .05 fused and the .1 needed to be broken free. I am rather impressed for it being a cheap printer. All serious no scaling or modifying the settings. Just loaded it in Cura 2.5 and printed it.

[@Husth]

I printed this part on my Raise3D printer and I can turn all of the "wheels", including the 0.05 mm. All wheels were loose right off the bed, except the 0.05 mm which had to be loosened with the key (to be honest it took some effort). I am not so surprised about this, as I earlier made PLA dovetails for multi-part assembly using exactly 0.05 as clearance. The spinner was printed with PrimaSelect Satin White modified PLA, which is extremely strong and a very nice material for precision printing. Layer height 0.15 mm, 3 shells and 40% rectilinear infill. I like to think that there is a difference between a 2k US$ printer and cheaper printers in the range from 100 to 700 US$, but in reality I think what matters a lot here, is the filament quality and how well your extrusion is calibrated to the actual filament. Also printing speed, retraction parameters and coasting distance matters to avoid bonds across the gap where perimeters start and stop.

[@DavidXSmith]

+Maker's Muse - I printed your tolerance test on the Aldi Cocoon Create and could free up the 0.5 down to the 0.15mm spinners. This is my first 3D printer and I am impressed. My bed was warped in one direction by 0.35mm and they sent me a glass plate. I tried bending the bed by hand and got the warping down to 0.23-0.25mm.

[@brianjordan3067]

I have just done a test on my FlashForge Finder using FlashForge's own slicer and am pleasantly surprised. I used the default standard settings without a brim, wall or raft and unsealed a new spool of PLA from 3DPrintz.co.uk. When complete the 0.5mm core was free as it came off the bed, the 0.4mm freed up with a light twist with my finger and thumb and the 0.3mm freed up with the key. 0.2mm and downwards are solid. I now have a baseline to compare with some gauges sliced on Simplify3D over the next few days although I suspect the machine is the limiting factor but we'll see. Thanks for this and all of your other hints and tips - all very much appreciated.

[@Troller1991]

had not watched a single vid on 3d printing for a while and this was recommend to me wat, but i liked the vid anyway

[@UnlikelyCreators]

**Rushes to download files**

[@jody5661]

I should print it of on one of the university printers. They have at least 4 or 5 $300,000 printers.

[@MakersMuse]

Hah! That'd be cool to see how fine they can print. There's a few variations of this design up on thingiverse now as well for choice.

[@andrewridenour7332]

I’ve been there a few times. Usually results in a careless grad student running prints at the fastest setting possible and being “shocked” when there’s a defect.

[@raidzor5452]

@@andrewridenour7332 from such expensive printers I would be surprised too.

[@slunce12]

You can get around the fact that copied (or patterned) components in F360 are instances and mirror changes done to one to all the rest by copying the bodies and not the components. Then you can leave all the bodies in the same component or use the "Components from bodies" command to get them separated.

[@scorpa54]

My tolerance is waning. I am having issues with hollows in Cura and Slic3r on Opensuse Leap, they get treated as solids (even bowls) except when I turn them on their sides (oh joy). Fortunately I can slice things with IdeaMaker on Ubuntu using VirtualBox and am in the process of attempting a remake of your device. Keep up the good work.

[@bartvandijk668]

The anet A8 is surprisingly enough able to print the tolerance of .1. I had to break it free with the key. But is actually spins!!!.

[@pazPAPAS]

I've been trying to decide what my first build should be when my OLO arrives. This seems like a good plan - hopefully I'll be able to use your blueprint without having to change too much. >_>

[@valyshknee4203]

Also Created a Fidget Spinner For My Son Its Pretty Cool He Has Now A Wave Design Hes Happy With It!

[@electricroundup8300]

FINALLY: a good use of a spinner..........Thumbs Up Muse!

[@Aeleas]

I'm setting it up on my MP Select Mini right now. UPDATE: First print fused together on the bottom because the bed was too hot. I reduced the bed temperature and switched to bare blue tape, and 0.3mm and up were free right off the printer. The 0.2mm one came loose when I stuck the key in a bench vise and turned the part. Looking at it I think 0.15mm might free up if I made a new key that will stay in the vise better to get more torque, but I believe 0.2mm is the resolution stated in the printer's manual. I used Monoprice PLA in red (PID: 10553) at 210C nozzle, 50C bed temp.

[@jimstamper7062]

thanks Angus

[@sttrife]

The extrusion multiplier can also be used to decrease the tolerance needed by your printer. This is because the perimeters get thinner, meaning the hole gets slightly larger, and the object going in the hole gets slightly smaller. In other words: if you have very bad tolerances on your printer... is it the quality of the printer that is the problem, or are you overextruding?

[@procactus9109]

Nice, Something like it should be one of the first things the print with any printer. When I get one it will be mine.

[@6ghost6rider6]

Got .15 to work pretty easily on an Prusa Mk3 with Prusament filament :D

[@simonbanks5012]

This channel's blowing up!

[@sierraecho884]

Automotive mechanical design engineer here. You CAD approach with copy paste to create multiples is spot on, don´t worry, your designs are better than fine. Make some new videos =)

[@MegaDrVenom]

I just got done with tolerance testing a couple days ago. I found that my prusa mk2 can make snap fit parts at tolerance of 0.18mm. The parts snap together and snap apart, but they don't fall out, even if thrown on the ground.

[@type-r3dprinting957]

Just came across this video and just wanted to add some remarks. I actually designed something similar than this, but I did specifically NOT use round spinning parts in my design. Instead, I used some rounded squares and triangles. This is because it is in making corners where your 3D Printer will or will not stand out. Making a circle with a 3D printer, even a cartesian one, is not as difficult as having the printer create a square. The main difference being, of course, than for a square, the printhead has to slow down, come to a stop and then change direction. The higher the speed, or the heavier the printhead, or the more play there is in your printer, the more difficult this becomes. Also, when doing a test like this, it is important to understand that changing printing temperature, speed or other variables will change your results. Materials flows more easily at a higher temp, thus your tolerances will be less. Same goes for higher speeds etc. etc.

[@Seanfrtd]

suggestion: you have triangles on the top but you should also have a 1/4 inch square indent on the bottom. this will allow the use of a 1/4 inch ratchet to free up the cylinders or even a1/4 torque wrench to see how much torque is required to free up the cylinders.

[@MakersMuse]

That's not a bad idea! I'll see what I can do.

[@thebackyardengineer4527]

@@MakersMuse Second that suggestion! And I'll wait until you do so I can pay the buck...

[@scogel8911]

I'd love to try this on the printer where I work. Tho I do feel like it would work perfectly even at the 0.05mm see as the finest resolution it can print is 0.025mm. Cool video none the less

[@phild.4154]

A stock Creality K1 on High Quality setting with their Hyper PLA, the best I got was down to the 0.15 wheel. I felt pretty good about that.

[@brucejackson5898]

Hey Angus, I printed your calibration on the UP BOX+ and got it down to 0.1mm with a 0.1 layer height on fine :)

[@StefanoV827]

Only 0.5 works on my CR-10Mini and 0.4 using the tool... what and how i must to compensate with Cura 3? I cannot find the parameter and i don't know how to change basing to my results. I compensate with -0.4 and now is too small... strange... tomorrow I test with 0.1 what I can move...

[@xl000]

I like how the fidget spinner comment at 5:55 exactly matches the fidget spinner fad of may 2017. 100% of fidget spinners are now in landfills.

[@Perseids64]

Finally got around to printing this tolerance test. I have an Alunar M505 which is basically an Anet A8 clone, I actually think it is an A8 proper but just rebranded, anywho... 0.5, 0.4 & 0.3 were all free straight off the build plate and I only had to tap the 0.2 from both sides and it was free.(I hadn't printed the key yet.) :) All in all I thought that wasn't too bad for a 'bargain' entry level printer.

[@erictaylor5462]

When I was working as a welder, you always have tolerances in the blueprint of whatever you're making. So one dimension might be 2'8 3/16" +-1/32". Most of the time your tolerance is between 1/8" and 1/16". Sometimes you might encounter a 1/32" tolerance, but anything less than that isn't really considered reasonable for a welder/fabricator to get. If you have something with a smaller tolerance, you have the welder make it a bit bigger than you need, then hand it to a machinist, you can get very tight tolerances indeed. Usually better than 1/1000 of an inch. If you are making parts that go one inside the other, like that pink thing, you use a 3-D printer to make it bigger than you want, then machine it down to the correct size.

[@franklinmichael671]

If you make it a cube and eliminate the 0.5 tolerance ring you could also have it measure how dimensions shrink differently in each axis as well as have chanfers, rounded corners and straight edges to see how the printer handles those and by how much you have to compensate when building a model.

[@RoyceBarber]

1. My old MK2 continues to win the internet!!!!!

[@dampierre99]

That is amazing dud

[@ChaosCoreTech0]

Yet again, another wonderful useful print. This is perfect. I had an idea similar to this a while back, but you did it so much butter than I could've lol. Great job man, thanks for sharing. :)

[@chuppoacobra]

Excellent!!

[@gerpeter4489]

I hate to nit pick but the correct term for intentional difference in part size to create a specific clearance is ALLOWANCE. Tolerance is the permisable variation in size from one part to another. So first you apply an allowance to establish a "fit", then you figure out your tolerances to make sure all combinations of parts made will work with each other. Don't take my word for it though; check it in Machinery's Handbook or similar. Angus - I love your videos. I have an Ultimaker 3 and a 2+. Using Cura, but have Simpify3D.

[@oadka]

Perfect video