How an Unvented Cylinder and Central Heating Work

[@michaelgriffiths5723]

Smashing video, mate. I couldn't fathom what was going on with my heating system or how it worked. After watching, I'm pretty sure I understand mine now. Thank you

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, glad to hear! Very appreciated!

[@tonydeltablues]

Great. I've just had a system boiler installed. Had a combi previously. I didn't really know how the new set up worked (I asked the installer, who was good, but he didn't have the communication skills to explain to a layperson) and was a bit in limbo about how it all works. You, sir, are the 'James Milner' of explaining how domestic boilers work: one who learnt Spanish in order to communicate with team mates better :-).

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Very kind of you to say so, thanks for watching!

[@pereparabol]

Amazing system, nicely done indeed

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, very appreciated!!

[@Davidg-wu5ur]

Great video I’ve learnt a lot. I currently have a pressurised heating system converted from a gravity fed. It holds pressure just fine. If don’t manually release the air from the air vent valve. I’m not sure if I am supposed to, but I can unscrew the air vent valve every day and get a gush of air. My question is where is this air coming from every day if the system holds pressure? I hope that makes sense.

[@jmscliff09]

I really think you could have planned your pipework better ...my Level 3 students have just pointed out that your pipework could have been better positioned and that the combi valve should be slightly higher than the cylinder for easy maintenance.

[@johnnyboy69-s2n]

clearley have no knowledge in plumbing work this is a fantasic job mate there no way you teach lmfao 😂🫦

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

You are right that ideally the combi valve would be higher than the cylinder, but in the limited space i had, that wasn’t an option. Draining a little out of the tank to service isn’t a big deal. Please do share the link videos of your own installs with better positioned pipe work……

[@jmscliff09]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I am a City&Guilds assessor and a Water inspector. I have been promoting good practice for many years. I thought i could offer some advice to anyone watching your videos. Thankyou for your reply.

[@johnnyboy69-s2n]

@@jmscliff09 calm down

[@johnnyboy69-s2n]

@@jmscliff09want a medal. shouldnt you be teaching your class

[@Smart_fix]

Great job and well explained mate well done 👍🏼 😊❤

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! Thanks for watching!

[@cripto_forum9981]

Amazing explanation

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Glad you think so!

[@Tobz.X]

Nice one for this mate, very helpful

[@michaelbaker8292]

Nicely explained great video. Thank you. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, very appreciated!

[@robertgreenaway5166]

If you are a property owner looking to get an upgraded heating system, always ask to have the system installed ready for a heat pump. Everything would remain the same but your radiators and pipe sizing is adjusted to suit lower flow and return temperatures, also ask for weather compensate and hot water priority. This will save you money on fuel consumption. Obviously all depending on heat loss so it may mean you need to have extra insulation in your property. This is how I’m moving forward in my new heating gas installation so it’s all ready for the transition to air source heat pump, but is still super efficient on a standard gas heating set up

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thanks for watching!

[@Gomezthetrader]

lol waste of time. transition will neer happen.

[@saffkhan4443]

Brilliant did you have any part numbers as I was interested in getting the pressure gauge to see the pressure just like you have configured and also the automatic air release as you have. Thanks in advance.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! They are just 1/4" thread back entry gauges, I got mine off BES. I dont have a product code, but these look similar on BES website - Part Number: 21923 Thanks for watching!

[@norbertsipos1079]

Thanks for this great video! It helped me a lot to understand how the heating and hot water system in our house. Now at least I would have some idea where to look in case of some issue.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ABB-bw6tc]

Wowsers it should be in a museum a work of art

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Very kind, thank you for watching!

[@davema8888]

Thanks for a great explanation video. It seems we have a similar system with an expansion tank, hot water cylinder, pump, wiring centre..etc in a cupboard on the 1st floor of our house and the boiler is on the ground floor. Our expansion tank needs changing due to the rubber membrane splitting (water escaping from the shrader valve and not air!). Do you think I can drain off the water from the expansion tank from the filling loop without the need to do it from a radiator before replacing the tank? Or is there a better method. Your help would be much appreciated!

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

I think a filling loop usually has a double check valve stopping back flow, so probably not. Draining down the system to change an expansion vessel would be sensible. Thanks for watching!

[@AndrewSmart-m7p]

Very useful information in your video. We have an indirect hot water and heating system. It seems that the pump for the heating system is not being driven by the room thermostat but only comes on if the temperature of the water in the cylinder drops below the temperature set. So, if we run the hot water (and the temperature in the cylinder drops) then the pump comes on and the radiators heat up. The pump will not operate by the central heating thermostat alone. Do you think this might be a problem with a valve or a wiring issue?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! Your issue sounds like a wiring problem. If this has always been the case, then it’s definitely wiring. If it’s a new issue, then I think it could be a valve problem, but also could still be wiring. Thanks for watching!

[@AndrewSmart-m7p]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Thanks for replying. That's what we thought (although we do seem to have a valve that isn't doing anything). Your video helped us to understand our heating and hot water and to identify what doesn't appear to be working correctly. Thanks again

[@dkaloupis75]

Hi, at 13 31 showing "elbow and T no explanation in regards the T function or where it goes and does what exactly, if possible also where both vessels are should request to have a slight distance view because frankly i am a bit confused and not your fault other my ignorance, and something last as its not about money the question, is it possible to get a diagram for the cupboard installation including parts? I would like to get our house done exactly like yours my friend. Feel free please to ask me whatever you want to keep you happy and satisfied for providing me all of that. Many thanks

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Hi, sorry I don’t have a plan drawn out for it, it was all in my head and scribbled on the wall. The layout is pretty standard and just adjusted for your exact set up on where the pipes leave the cupboard. If you just ask for isolators on everything and say you want an S plan plus system, a decent plumber will produce something similar. The tee at 13 31 is just a hot water supply to my loft conversion, as it didn’t make sense to run it down to the floor first and it has an isolator above anyway. Thanks for watching!

[@dkaloupis75]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Sir, very much appreciated for your response and explanation, I will try to send you an email private and confidential as soon as possible with the new year. Enjoy your family time and the festivities among. Happy New Year

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thanks, you too! Happy new year!

[@jeev2054]

Great video explaining how an unvented system works. One question, you mentioned that an unvented system prevents a drop in pressure when 2 showers are working at the same time. However, in my home I still lose a lot of pressure. Any ideas why? I have an unvented megaflo tank in a cupboard on the 1st floor, which is connected to a system boiler located on the 2nd floor.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! It is difficult to say without seeing the system, but I’ll try! It depends what you’re incoming flow rate is already, an unvented cylinder should have a combi valve on the incoming water main to reduce to 3 bar. In terms of flow rate you need at least 25litres a minute on your mains supply for an unvented cylinder. If you don’t have that, it will mean your system can’t handle multiple showers and you’d be better off with a combi boiler. You can measure flow rate by timing filling a bucket that you know the capacity of. If your incoming main has a low flow rate you could look at installing an accumulator or upgrading your water main size, ideally you want 25mm mdpe coming in. Your combi valve needs servicing annually too and it could be blocked up with limescale on the filter, so worth cleaning that out if you haven’t recently. It could also be the way the showers have been supplied, if they are both supplied on the same branch in 15mm, you probably won’t get the flow you need.

[@blizteredthumbs7911]

Absolutely awesome video. I've worked with plumbing many times. I've just bought a house and it comes with a pressurised unvented system. You just helped me understand the mind field of questions I had. For one, we've been trying to understand the temperature of the water for showers.. currently WAT too hot. It was working fine then we realised we had the emersion on and boosted the gas/water heating. So turned off the emersion, then the clock on the timer for gas we adjusted so we can only boost as required and it's messed everything up. I'll figure it out but you really helped me realise what all the parts are. Our emersion works fine, just might switch out the timer because it won't let you switch to Off, only time/run/prog.. it's stupid. We'll get there. What model/number is your timer? Does it allow OFF option? So no programming will activate. Cheers

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

It’s a channel plus h17xl. It has an off button, and a battery inside, so it won’t lose all your programming in a power cut. Would recommend it, you can save a lot buying second hand if you can find one. Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful!

[@blizteredthumbs7911]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I'm a technical guy, my wife's a qualified plumber and so far we couldn't figure out why it's doing what it's doing. I'm for replacing the controller, she's more patient. The only option I can't find is off lol bar the switch. They're simple to use just my current one is a pain in the arse to be honest. I tried setting the programming to 6:30am on/off P1, P2, P3 Mon to Fri and sat sun. I don't know if that's why it's confused. But it was 19:00 when I discovered it wouldn't stay on boost (water) I'd come back and it was flashing and clicking. In the bin I say!

[@KiniKiko]

Thanks. Any idea why the hot water in shower isn’t working? Joules cylinder installed 3 months ago

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Very difficult to say without seeing it, best to get the installer back. Thanks for watching!

[@KiniKiko]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 thanks. If they fitted it only 5 months ago they shouldn’t charge to fix it?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Depends on the issue really, if you’ve got hot water everywhere else, then there’s something wrong with the shower, probably the cartridge. If you’ve got no hot water anywhere, then it’s probably the cylinder

[@kareemismail6023]

really helpful vid, I am about to renovate my 3 bed victorian terrace. I currently have a combi but will be adding an L dormer with further 2beds and 1 shower room. 3 plumber so far have had different opinions, 1 has said a 50kw combi will easily handle 2 showers, another said 28kw system boiler and cylinder will be best. I dont want to install combi and then not be able to make use of 2 showers, on the other hand I dont want to have huge heating bills with a cylinder. it is 5 ppl household. any feedback would be really appreciated. also putting underfloor heating in new kitchen roughly 6x5 meters if that makes any difference. TIA.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Good luck with the renovation! First thing to check is your incoming water flow rate, as a cylinder needs at least 25 litres a minute. If you get a bucket you know the capacity of, fill it and time it, you can work out litres a minute. If you have less than 25, you’ll need to consider a new supply if it is old and 15mm, or if the road has low flow rates, you need an accumulator and pump. I don’t think a cylinder will cost significantly more to heat a house and heat hot water, you don’t lose a lot from the storage. Any reason why they said a cylinder will cost more to run? Check the max output flow rates on the boilers you’re looking at, and compare to the showers you plan to fit. I expect they would be enough though and you’ll want to go with the cylinder. Thanks for watching!

[@kareemismail6023]

@TheDiligentDIYer1759 thanks for your reply, if you have central heating on for a few hours morning and evening does this always heat the water in the cylinder? I'll check what you have suggested regarding flow rate and see what works best for us. thanks again

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

No you have valves controlled by your central heating controller, so you can have heat to the cylinder, or radiators, or both

[@jackieho2848]

Great video! I don’t have hot water and what will be the problem ? The heating seems working fine. thanks

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, and thanks for watching! Without seeing it and a lot more information, it is very difficult to say. If you have a combi boiler, you’ll need to get a plumber in. If you have a cylinder and the water is just coming out cold, it is probably a broken 2 port valve, but could be any number of other issues too. Sorry i can’t help more!

[@davidbrand5925]

Interesting idea to use the Nest's hot water switching for your second CH zone. I am trying to decide whether to repurpose a 34KW Valliant combi and fit an unvented cylinder with it, but it a tough call because it is a pretty big expense and the only issue we face is running two concurrent showers. Do you think it would make much difference to shower performance? We have over 50l/m incoming supply (Since upgrading it) but the boiler can only heat about 14l/m at best. One shower alone is pleasant but two at the same time becomes weak.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Yeah using the nest hot water for an extra zone saves money and our bedrooms are spread over two floors, so not really a good place to put the thermostat anyway. 50l/m is a really good incoming supply, i think it will make a big difference on your showers, as long as the showers can handle good flow rates. It is expensive, so comes down to how much value you put on flow rates in the showers when running both together. Thanks for watching!

[@rob5896]

With the unvented systems do you have pressure regulation for all cold feeds in the property, I'm thinking about balanced pressure across mixer taps shower valves etc, I imagine there would be a pressure regulator right after the stop cock in this instance.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Yes, you have a combi valve that reduces to 3 bar, off that comes hot and cold supply. Difficult to see in the video, but you can see it in the thumbnail back right between the two pressure gauges. Thanks for watching!

[@mrtmc8237]

Very informative

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Glad you think so! Thanks for watching!

[@jonahs4521]

What is the model of your boiler?

[@leecornwall8381]

In your experience, if water if running through the tundish, what’s the cause?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

You can usually hear where it is coming from. In my experience it’s probably a PRV that is stuck open, if you run it full for a short period they usually sort themselves out. Thanks for watching!

[@cliveramsbotty6077]

the cause is excessive temperature and/or pressure

[@grahammay1]

good video however, you said you had the pump on the flow ! surely you would put the pump on the return less stress and a lower temperature at the pump, pump's are better at pumping ( pushing )water ?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

I think it’s personal preference really and doesn’t make too much difference, but generally plumbers put them on the flow. Thanks for watching!

[@s1dew1nd3r4]

Really good watch - so iv got an older type hot water cylinder and heat only boiler (non combi type) - i have an old "sunvic30" control unit that has a broken switch so i really need to get this sorted because i can only have HW and CH on at the same time, it wont just do HW on its own - another thing, i have one of those Grundfos pumps but its the older type with just manual analog switch with "i/ii/iii" on it - i appear to have a thermostat on the boiler but the small control wheel on it just spins so i cant really have any control over whats going on, when i turn the system on by the control unit it will all come on fine etc and get hot radiators and heat the water - but after so long obviously its turning off the stat at the water cylinder and then shortly after my radiators start cooling down because the boiler turns off - any idea why its doing that? i want the radiators to still stay on heating the house.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, I think it sounds like you need a new control unit. My guess is the controller is shutting off everything because the cylinder stat has clicked off. You can probably get a new one cheap second hand. The one controlling my hot water was actually a new open box one off Facebook marketplace. Although if this has always been a problem, it might just be wired up incorrectly. You could try and rewire it yourself, but this is quite complicated if you haven’t done it before and I’m not sure what sign off requirements there are. Thanks for watching!

[@tristancraven3685]

The hw expansion vessel has not got a balloon type diaphragm its not the same as the ch diaphragm because of corrosion the water is heald within the balloon as in the ch one it has the ability to have inhibitor in the ch water where as the hw vessel wouldn't have contaminates in bathing water .

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

That’s very interesting to know and makes sense, thanks for sharing!

[@cuppaht161]

I’ve got this system just unsure what to leave boiler controls on exactly?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

It depends on the boiler and the type of controls you have really, sorry it’s difficult to help without seeing it! Best to post some pictures on a forum and ask people or get a plumber round. Thanks for watching!!

[@msaeed4614]

Great video, thanks. Would be cool if you could put it all on a diagram at the end.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Maybe another video! Thanks for watching!

[@seanheagen356]

Hi nice copper work. Do you need a tempering valve off your domestic hot water feed?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you!! I hadn’t planned on it, our taps are all mixers and the showers have cartridges in them. I thought a tempering valve was usually for sinks in public toilets. Thanks for watching!

[@michaelwoodhouse8911]

Why do you have stop cocks and drain valves under each solenoid valve

[@dkaloupis75]

My thumbs and subs to you sir. Excellent

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Very kind of you, thank you!

[@dejanmyrtaj1997]

I wanted to ask if it is easy or difficult to install central heating as a beginner who has finished the 4 month school for hvac systems, where should we base ourselves

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Depends on the complexity of the system and your skill set really

[@normanboyes4983]

I agree with DIY Guy. By far the most difficult aspect of installing a central heating system is lifting floorboards (especially if it’s nailed down chipboard panels) to put your runs in. It is a great exercise for someone who wants to bring their skills on quickly. As a project here are things to consider. 1. The most important step is system design, are you going to go system and cylinder, or combi. The next key part of the design is calculating the total heat loss of the property (good software apps for that like Heat Punk. Next sizing the emitters to meet the heat loss of the rooms (which in total should match property heat loss) and to do this you need to decide what flow temperature you are striving for at your design outside temperature (normally -2 or -3C). 2. Next selecting a boiler to meet your design requirements (heat loss from the property + hot water) and a cylinder and deciding on location of boiler, cylinder and emitters). An important feature is control strategy and weather compensation is by far the simplest (and best) - it is particularly suitable for lower temperature systems. 3. Next designing or selecting pipe sizes and where you are going to run them to minimise the runs, normally 22 or 28mm primaries. You may wish to consider using manifolds on each floor for distributing flow and returns to each rad with a home run for each rad. Best to use 15mm on these to future proof the property. 4. Run the pipes - it’s the easier and more enjoyable bit.

[@carverparkes2276]

Awesome... Thank you very very much!

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Glad it helped!

[@jayseabie215]

A few points; 1) your cylinder thermostat should really not be set lower than about 60C to prevent Legionella disease forming. 2) That combi valve is also a pressure reducing valve hence the pressure being a lot lower the other side of it. 3) The potable expansion vessel has a balloon in it, not a diaphragm as drinking water should not come into contact with the inner metal surface.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thanks for watching!

[@basharedais100]

Very good bro 👍

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you!

[@joshprice423]

how would you drain the ch?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Using a drain off and hose. Thanks for watching!

[@ebraheem2007]

As I understood the system uses electricity to heat?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

My system uses a gas heat only boiler, but you can have an unvented cylinder heated by electricity only, the system design would be very different though. Thanks for watching!

[@zj0kerz]

Nice vid mate. Also turn your cylinder stat up to 60 to avoid legionella buildup ;)

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! I did do some research back when I installed it and a couple of places said 50oC was enough to kill legionella over a few hours. But looking again perhaps i should turn it up to 60oC

[@normanboyes4983]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759The legionella risk is overstated in domestic properties, especially if you are turning your stock over. Within that, the largest risk (within the low risk domestic environment) is the multiple bathroom house with say 3 or 4 bathrooms and two occupants for much of the year. Then the risk is in dormant shower heads and the like - visitors coming to stay and using a dormant shower - if there is a legionella risk this is multiplied by aerosol droplets from the shower head. As in all things the elderly are more at risk than young people if exposed to the pathogen. So, in sum, domestic properties are low risk (try and find a recorded case that is not a care facility) A legionella hygiene cycle of once a week for domestic properties is good enough and some would argue is overkill. I do it once a week when my missus is going to have a long soak in the bath.😉

[@mohammedhussain1980]

Thank you 👍

[@tomm7886]

Really nice video and well done - thanks. I'm curious to know - how did you navigate the requirements to have qualifications such as G3 certification for unvented systems as a DIYer? Cheers

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! Fortunately a friend holds a G3 qualification, so didn’t need to worry. I think you can do the course yourself though, I did look at it and it was fairly inexpensive, so could be an option for a big DIY install. Thanks for watching!

[@cliveramsbotty6077]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 how did you register it with building control?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

My friend who has the qualification helped install it, so was able to register it with building control.

[@cliveramsbotty6077]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 The G3 qualification alone does not allow you to register an unvented cylinder in excess of 15 litres. You need to be a member of an approved contractor scheme or gain compliance directly through local building control. How did you register it with building control?

[@johnwalls7434]

All very well done, just one point worth noting. You are a bit near the mark on HW expansion vessel, most sizing charts would spec 24l for 210-250l cylinder. You quite correctly state better to be a bit over in relation to 25l vessel on heating circuit, so surprised to see you a bit under on the HW side.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you John! The HW expansion vessel was supplied in a kit with the cylinder so I never actually questioned the size, but I expect you’re right and it is on the high end of acceptable. Thanks for watching!

[@johnwalls7434]

Hi, I think you may have misunderstood me, the EV on the cylinder is undersized, not on the high side. Correct size would be 24l according to sizing charts, however it is borderline since 24l is sized for 210-250l cylinder. Interestingly I have inherited a system which has been installed using an 18l EV on a 250l cylinder. On the same system the installer has a 24l EV on the radiator circuit, effectively the wrong way round. I am going to renew them both with 24l EV’s. Great vid by the way, of course I zoomed in on it because whole layout very similar to what has been put in here. I’m retired now but must commend the quality of your installation, it did rather remind me of one or two of mine, a very neat and well thought out job, well done! I like your gauges pre-and-post Pressure reduction valve. When I do my remedial, inspired by you I’m going to fit one pre valve like you but the second one will be a combined gauge/thermometer which will go on the DHW take-off. It is good to have a one look visual check on what is going on. Best wishes John.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Yes sorry, I meant on the lower end rather than higher. Very kind of you to say so, thank you! Thanks for watching! Good luck with your upgrades!

[@johnwalls7434]

👍

[@nabinraii]

Automatic vent is bad , if you are away for holiday and incase your automatic vent is faulty, you might see your house as swimming pool when you arrive 😊

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

It’s just as likely any other fitting would fail and cause a leak

[@nabinraii]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I prefer thumb screw air vent / air vent cap , cheap but best .

[@paul_my_plumbs_uk]

👍🏿👍🏿 I'd ❤️ to lag all the cupboard pipes 😍😍👊🏾👊🏾

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

I have thought about it, but I like seeing the copper haha

[@paul_my_plumbs_uk]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 agree 😍😍😂😂

[@normanboyes4983]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759Part L regulations demand lagging - personally if it is in the heated envelope of the building I think the regulation is nonsense.

[@vincentcrowley23]

What size cylinder is that? And how long does it take to heat from cold?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

210 litres slimline tank. I only have the timer on for 60 minutes each day, but I expect it is quicker than that and the thermostat just clicks off. My boiler is also only set to 55oC, so that will affect the speed of heating.

[@vincentcrowley23]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 And for how long does the hot water last in the showers?

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

That does 3 medium length showers

[@vincentcrowley23]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Ok, I want to upgrade the capacity of my vented cylinder. I was thinking 150l is enough, I have time to wait for water to heat back up too! Thanks very much! Your up 1 subscriber

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you! Worth going as big as you can, have a look at slimline or horizontal cylinders are good if you can put it in the loft

[@paullbennett2923]

That's a heat only boiler , not a system boiler.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

You’re absolutely right, my mistake

[@paullbennett2923]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 No problem at all , have a great weekend.

[@alexroberts6416]

Yeah but does it have building reg sign off though?!! Just kidding, great job

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Hahaha thanks Alex. Fortunately I do I have building regs sign off from a plumber who helped me install it. Thanks for watching!

[@davecavaghan7889]

You need to talk to your friend about the difference between ch expansion vessels and dhw expansion vessels as you clearly don't have a clue

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

There is more polite way you could have phrased that…

[@normanboyes4983]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759To be honest, the internal construction of the expansion tank is wholly irrelevant. The only serviceable part is the Schraeder valve as long as you use the red on the heating and the white on DHW (and read the manufacturers instructions) you are good to go. When did a plumber actually repair anything anyway - they just replace parts.😉

[@michaelgater6344]

Harsh

[@michaelronan4928]

For me and it is only my opinion, all those edits during your initial description was far too distracting and I had to stop watching. Good luck with your channel just the same, you do provide very useful information for DIY'ers like me.

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to give feedback. The edits are mostly me cutting out short pauses thinking it flows better, but perhaps it is distracting and actually makes it less watchable.

[@normanboyes4983]

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759I think there is an autocue app for the iPad - which may help you to keep on track and avoid ‘thinking pauses’😉 Personally I think you did fine and the edits do not bother me - good content is all that matters.

[@Duckfit]

Great vid thanks mate really apreciate it

[@TheDiligentDIYer1759]

Thank you, very appreciated! Thanks for watching!