HOW are JAPANESE CLIMBERS SO GOOD?

[@babsds0]

That's crazy the level of dedication the Japanese route setters put into their craft. I wonder if Japanese climbing gyms are much richer than abroad since I don't think many gyms in the UK could afford to pay their setters for that level of effort.

[@SCOclimbing]

@@criminallyretarded6312 I own a gym in Portugal and same shit scenario

[@Sueshe]

one factor is that the gyms are much older, I went to a gym in Osaka called ROCA and it's about to be a 10 year old gym, the owner climbs v12 outside and the two setters climb v16 outside. This wasn't even a particularly famous gym in Japan either. Those facts alone say a lot I think. Otherwise I think Japanese setters and climbers are used to a culture of more technical setting & beta.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hahah they volunteered to stay for that long!!! The boss wasn’t even there😅 They just can’t let it slide unless their work is as good as they can make it

[@SachaGreif]

I think it’s understood in Japan that if you’re a setter you do it out of love and not for the non-existant money… so yeah I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re not getting paid that much even when setting for two or three days straight.

[@Sueshe]

@@SachaGreif well also Japan's general work culture is very much about unpaid overtime and commitment, and that's for companies who people don't feel true passion about. The lengths japanese employees could probably go through for something they truly love are definitely to this level.

[@nofacejustmask9270]

dont even know how youre not a famous youtuber by now, your videos are great, editing is perfect and youre always coming up with good ideas

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Really appreciate the kind words, I will keep working hard!!

[@demon5965]

​@@Jonathan_sin88u already came a long way. I remember a few months ago I recommended your channel to my friends and you still only had 700 subs 😂

[@jmb9701]

I feel like Japanese culture turns everything into a creative venture and in that, their cultural attention to detail really shines. For me, this obsession with perfection makes Japan such an inspirational place even in the mediocrity of every day life. These kids obviously have lives and concerns outside of that room, but to them, perfection is the only way they'll be satisfied.

[@danielcgallagher]

Nice video. As a (not great) route setter in Japan, I can say that the process shown here is very consistent with how things are done elsewhere in Japan as well (at least in my area). The dedication to the craft is incredible, and it is understood that when you pay a route setter for a day, it is NOT going to be an 8-hour day. 😅

[@ryanj9571]

Is the compensation enough to live on? The only time i have been on food stamps was when i was a full time route setter

[@danielcgallagher]

I would guess not typically. While cheaper setters might run 250 USD or less per day, I think the most famous/expensive setters might get up to 400 USD per day (less with current exchange rate, but buying power is close enough to think of it that way). If they manage to get 12 days a month (say 2 days each at 6 gyms), they might get something like 50k a year, but the reality is that every gym has its own head setter, volunteers, and local cheap setters to call on, so I doubt more than just a few setters could manage to make that kind of money. In most cases, I assume any given setter is also employed by or owns a gym, and the setting is supplementary income.

[@noahjeffery5670]

​@@danielcgallagherif I'm lucky i get 135 Canadian dollars a day for setting I've been setting straight for two year's

[@az3ssin263]

Great high quality content.. doesn't feel like watching a channel with only 8K subs.. definitely deserve more!!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

It’s all goodddd I appreciate every single one of y’all 🙏🙏❤️

[@djsafespace]

You got my sub after this video 💯

[@SachaGreif]

Another fact that highlights how important setting is here: guest route-setters are very common, and they'll often travel to different cities just to set at various gyms. For example the owner of Maboo himself sets at the two Rockmate gyms in Kansai multiple times per year (a ~400km trip one way)… which might've been why he wasn't there in the video, who knows!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

haha what an amazing insight that I missed on mentioning!!! That's very trueee, Toki san was setting at Rockmate when I was there to film this video!!!

[@SachaGreif]

@@Jonathan_sin88 you should come to Rockmate btw! They're like the Kansai version of Maboo :) let me know if you do, or if you need any tips about this area! (Although as I'm writing this I'm realizing that you're probably not even in Japan anymore…)

[@Jonathan_sin88]

@@SachaGreif haha one day

[@Metapuff1]

so do they just close down the whole gym for a few days when they set?! that would never happen in the US, where they just reset small parts of the wall each time

[@Jonathan_sin88]

They closed it for 2.5 days for a set that was up for 11 days

[@danielcgallagher]

I responded to someone else who asked the same question, but I noticed this question pinned, so I'll answer here too. Basically, I think it depends on the scale of the gym, but it is very common to close the whole gym for a few days to reset all of the walls. Since you brought up the US, I'll mention that the climbing culture is wildly different. First of all, US gyms (that I've been to) are many, many times the size of Japanese gyms, and maybe only one or two big gyms per city. That means they can take up as much room as they need to lay out the holds and set without getting in the way of customers. Meanwhile, in Japan, it's more like your "friendly neighborhood gym" kind of situation, so Japanese people can just go climb at another nearby gym during the reset (maybe just drive 30 minutes instead of 10). Additionally, I've observed a strong culture of climbing for fitness in the US, but in Japan the vast majority of people who climb do so for the love of the sport, not just part of their work out routine (e.g. I've never seen a weight room in a Japanese gym, and I've never not seen a weight room in a US gym). So I think you just get a lot more customers in the US than in Japan, meaning you'd have a lot more disgruntled customers on your hands if you closed a gym in the US for a few days than you would get in Japan. I also mentioned in the other comment as well that cleaning off all of the walls at once makes it easier to rotate those big volumes around onto different walls each time, maintaining a steady stream of new and varied climbs. If you dug into, you could probably find several more reasons, but I've already written short novel, so I think that'll do for now.

[@Xavier-xb7is]

Makes me so happy to see you Jonathan. You crack me up every time I see you in a video. Thank you for doing what you do

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Happy to see people enjoying the videos🎉

[@LadyLaddy]

Every climb looked like a masterpiece of art :), absolutely in love with it. The video was super enjoyable; I never thought about the male/female height situation in Japan. It makes so much sense.

[@JunNozaki]

Love the deep dive, didn't know they spent so much more time on a set than the gyms I frequent. Also love the idea that the routes are all designed from the ground up to be accessible to all heights without being too easy.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

There’s nothing easy that’s for sure🤫

[@colininatsugu7013]

This video was really insightful! I think it would be really cool if at some point you tried getting a 1 on 1 learning session with a routesetter and get a bit more detailed on how an average person's perspective is in routesetting vs a setter mindset

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Ooo what a great ideaaaa

[@Hambin0]

Only been climbing for a few months, but i only watch you and magnus for climbing videos. Great content man! Please keep it coming

[@ewan_young]

10 k !!! congrats !!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

thank you!!

[@Dstryrrr]

Love the series. You're doing a great work!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you!!! I will keep working hard!!

[@Bob-ex2yx]

This has gotta be my fav climbing video ever

[@Jonathan_sin88]

ahhah that means a lot to me thank you!!

[@lofizp1062]

MASSIVE EDITIJF COMBINES WITH A HUMONGOUS VIDEO💪💪💪💪🔥🔥

[@Jonathan_sin88]

hahaha thank youuuuu, MASSIVE COMMENTTTT

[@sakurasshhii]

Thanks for the video, u r so cool! The atmosphere in the video is just awesome, wish if someday i'll climb here

[@Jonathan_sin88]

gad you enjoyed the video!!

[@Gulzath]

Great video again dude! Love that you are pushing these videos further into awesomeness

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you very much for the continued supoorttt

[@Shamelow]

"Cofee, cigarette and some nasty jokes"... As a frenchman I agree with this way of life

[@Jonathan_sin88]

might explain why the French are great at climbing too

[@ramonsantiago4573]

I really liked this documentary style video!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

and I love making ittt

[@VEE3RDEYE]

some of these boulder problems are just so insane

[@Jonathan_sin88]

They are pretty bangingggg

[@davidjimenz4691]

been watching you for about a week now and i can’t stop watching your videos man, keep up the good work and amazing videos!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you SOSOSOSO MUCH

[@JP-ee2tc]

I have memories of my Explorer Scout leaders regaling us with the nitty gritty of their early 90's trip up The Nose of El Cap- There was a Japanese team ahead of us, and a French team behind us...

[@SpanishDaive]

Great Video Thanks a lot for showing the intricacies of Japanese Routesetting! :)

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hope you liked th evideooo

[@Kelsophrosyne]

This is amazing content! As a setter in the US, I can say that setting for hard climbers of all sizes is quite difficult when creating equity and quality movement for all of them. I have a v10 climber who is 4’11” and another who is 6’4”, and creating a problem that is the same difficulty for them both with the available holds and terrain is close to impossible. Also, a LOT of the western gyms are more about the money than the climbers. Sad to say. For this reason, we are limited to how much effort we are able to put into a set. I get only 6 hrs once a week for my ONE partner and I to set 8-10 boulders. We do our best to be creative and push those limitations to the max. Jonathon, I would love to know how many boulders they set in this 3 day period. I’d also love to set with a crew like this to gain some amazing experience points. Anyway, great video sir.

[@N3mdraz]

Plottwist: you mean unintentionally westen route setters are money driven :) I don't blame you. Japan is known and unique in the sense they have a work for free overtime culture.

[@Kelsophrosyne]

@@N3mdraz I can’t speak for all of us, but if I were money driven, I’d leave this gym and go to a gym where the owners cared about their setters. To these people, I’m just a laborer, and am severely underpaid, but if I leave the community will suffer. I live in poverty just so I can keep setting. I set aside an engineering position which had me in the middle class just so I could set for the rest of my life. If I knew I was appreciated, I would set for food and a roof. But yes, capitalism ruins the best of minds in the west. I cannot deny that.

[@chloetky6769]

12:59 underrated moment

[@maazinbuhari5684]

Thanks for the gym rec(s)!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

hope they help!!

[@questpatch4527]

Thank you for the video, thoroughly enjoyed it!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

that makes me so happy!!! I will keep working hard and make the next ones better

[@kaks1870]

Great vid mate, hoping to climb in a Japanese gym one day!

[@nabroclilse7692]

That's actually crazy, the skill that it would take to set things like that, my gym closes one wall for 6 hours and changed it. I do like how the route setters also frequent at the gym and help people climb their setting

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with people sticking to their working hours🤣I’m just trying to show that there are some crazy dedicated people out in Japan that’s all

[@nabroclilse7692]

@@Jonathan_sin88 yeah I think all route setters are incredible and you are amazing to!

[@belmany]

Your best video yet!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you think so!

[@schnoi]

Ah, I truly love your content so much! Amazing video, cannot wait for the next one!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Appreciate the support!! Gonna work hard to publish the next one soon!!

[@AndrewTrainorActor]

Incredible glimpse into Japanese setting! First video of yours I've seen, but I'm definitely subscribing!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you!!! I will try to keep improving!!

[@mireillebx4063]

This is insane! Do they close the gym for the full few days they are setting? And how often do they reset? Such dedication, but so cool to be so dedicated to the craft.

[@danielcgallagher]

I think it depends on the scale of the gym. Then again, most gyms are relatively small, so I think most will opt to close the entire gym while they reset every wall. It also makes sense from the perspective of keeping all the loose holds and volumes out of the way of customers, as well as trying to keep the larger volumes rotating around to different walls each time. Some larger gyms might only close off half the gym or something, but I've only heard of that a few times.

[@SachaGreif]

Most of the gyms I know here in Japan (at least the big ones) change every problem once a month, and they do close completely for one to two days to do it.

[@SachaGreif]

I’ve actually never heard of a single gym here that sets different walls on a staggered schedule and keeps the gym open throughout, now that I think about it.

[@mireillebx4063]

That's so interesting, thank you both for your answers!

[@spicyjuice8320]

First time discovering this channel, great video and great editing definitely deserves a new subscriber👍

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you very much!!! They are only going to get better!

[@BoulderProblems]

this was actually a really entertaining video. I enjoyed it.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you enjoyed ittt

[@wandertvandeputte]

Lovely video as usual!!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you so much 🤪

[@cedricrust9953]

Fantastic insight, thanks a lot for making this.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hope you enjoyed itttt

[@muumarlin1731]

Love learning about the route-setting process and the role itself

[@Jonathan_sin88]

it was an awesome experience for me as well!

[@nerdvsgravity1387]

Man the routes at my gym are put up in a few hours…

[@airanmilian]

Love your videos Jonathan! Keep it up, much love from Denmark

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you very much!!!

[@nonoachim]

Thanks for the new insight!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hope it helpeddd

[@lucygraham12]

Really brilliant insight into their prices and the difference between Japanese and other setting

[@Jonathan_sin88]

glad you enjoyeddd

[@ashwinhendrix]

This is awesome content!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you liked ittt

[@ryukagai]

Dude, awesome video man.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you liked ittt

[@hkbenman]

Legendary love the video!!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

My mannnn

[@atelieralpha4552]

I'm subscribed to about 75+ climbing youtube channels and you have some of the most interesting content. Keep it up dude! I can't imagine that traveling to create this kind of content is cheap - do you have any way we can support stuff like this? Thinking patreon or I think youtube has an option somewhere.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

First of all, thank you very much!!! I basically just save up to the best of my abilities to make this happen Ahha, love your ideas tho I will take a look into them

[@metal234234]

love this content mate, keep it up

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you very much🙈

[@droctowiz5968]

Loved the unanimous post-lunch nap haha

[@Jonathan_sin88]

It was definitely necessary

[@duuplo]

8:27 ultra-japanese moment

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🤣🤣I think that happens quite often

[@jasper5366]

Great content! Was wondering what mic you are using tho. Think a better audio would a lot !

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🥹🥹It was all I hadddd, there’ll be better audio soon I hopeee

[@aakash1sadhu]

Amazing video bro! Love your t-shirt bro! Where is that from?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Mountain Hardwear!!

[@westhalltv6412]

Coffee, cigarettes, and nasty jokes has to be one of the wildest comments of all time. Legendary LOL

[@Perry0823]

Man, those Japanese setters are so cool. The smoking section in the gym was kind of funny 😂. You would think a gym wouldn't have something like that. Is smoking very popular in Japan?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

o smoking is MASSIVE in Japan, I think at least half of the gyms I visited have a smoking area!

[@Jero0onimo]

Sweet!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

thank youuu

[@andrew-igdal]

Great video!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you!!!

[@droctowiz5968]

So, you said red was one of the easiest grade right ? The big coordination boulder at the end is red right ? Yeeah this gym is crazy hard haha

[@Jonathan_sin88]

All Japanese gyms are🤣

[@atomic7680]

Cool video 😮 thanks!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you enjoyed !!

[@楊子慕]

4:28 That incredible move does deserve a mario woo-hoo

[@orangeflowerlove]

Come to try Chinese climbing gyms. It feels so different and much harder than the ones in France.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

One day!!

[@mebbec]

super cool video!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

glad you enjoyed!!

[@audetetvincit]

On thing I heard about Japanese setting on a podcast with Tim Kang, was that there are some problems set at Maboo or other gyms where nobody will ever do it. Not Tamoa or anyone. They’ll try, but the problem may remain undone. It’s okay with the setting culture to create problems so difficult they’ll never be sent.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I think that’s an insight into how Japanese climbers think more than anything. Yes the setting alone can be super hard and challenging but if the climbing population can’t take it and understand the values of learning from failure, the whole thing won’t work

[@discreetbolivar]

can you please give a link for the podcast? I'd be very interested!

[@mynameisjoeo]

I want a Japanese set route. Really cool behind the scenes

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you!!!

[@hminhph]

Setting for 3 days in a row in unheard of for commercial gyms in Europe, just unbelievable

[@themeatpopsicle]

dudes got canoes on the wall

[@vor6126]

W VIDEO AS ALWAYS

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🙈🙈

[@baileycrombie2267]

Awesome content man. It's really high quality and well thought out. Keep up the good work. You should consider setting up a patron so we can help fund this content. I know I'd be willing to give a few dollars a month and I'm sure others would too!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

thank you for the kind words, I will definitely give that idea a think

[@therealyojames]

Ah yes the deep fried mic

[@Jonathan_sin88]

poor climber things...

[@therealyojames]

@@Jonathan_sin88 sadge

[@Rylandos]

Lower bone density, chicken legs, feminine framed bodies. More power to weight ratio.

[@shredpuppy]

Favourite climbing channel on youtube right now

[@zamazqui]

So... are they closing 2 days each setting time? and how much time do they wait untill next setting?

[@Bouldering904]

Wow incredible sends!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I had more falls than sends for sureee

[@Bouldering904]

@@Jonathan_sin88 Still better than nearly anyone that's been climbing for as long as you have! Also, I would love it if you could give me a few tips on my routes that I've done, but no pressure.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

@@Bouldering904send me a dm on insta 👊👊

[@parkerpearsall7501]

Homies need to wear safety glasses

[@rjeyjasx]

Great video dude, amazing watch

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank youu!! More to comeee

[@RossPotts]

Geez, I’m gonna be climbing beginners routes then when I visit next year!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Dun worry it’s just as good as any other routes

[@RossPotts]

@@Jonathan_sin88 ah, I mean you guys are way more advanced over there. It would be like a Toyota iST trying to outrun a GTR. I just doubt I could keep up with your skill levels: on a REALLY good day, I could climb a 5.10c

[@ArchibaldVonSkip]

Incredible video.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you!!

[@Sploige]

What grade was the first orange boulder? 🤔 Also, I know I said it in the last video comment, but you should add a donation, I would be happy to support such great content. 🐒

[@Jonathan_sin88]

That’s so niceee🥹🥹the orange was the second easiest grade I think🤣

[@nub0rn]

So from what I understood, they spent 2 days but reset the whole gym? How often do they do this?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

This set was only up for 11days🤣

[@kauaandrade4098]

Ok, so now i want to be a routesetter

[@Jonathan_sin88]

It’s a very tough job ahha, be prepared😏

[@pampuch65]

The after lunch nap explains all the success! 5:06 - 5:20

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I think that should be mandatory not only across climbing, but all jobs

[@Tj-hw2ql]

I habe Never Seen a wall with this many holes

[@ask_me_if_turtles_fly8373]

Cool video!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you like it

[@duuplo]

they literally design their boulders like I design my mario custom levels lol

[@Jonathan_sin88]

It’s pretty cool haha

[@captain-levi139]

yay

[@joshfox9767]

Sick video

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank youuu✈️

[@Maduc]

Height argument doesn't track because that would imply they would still lose compared to taller climbers outside of Japan which is not the case.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

thanks for giving the things I say int he video a good think, I think what I was trying to get across was that Japanese climbers usually do not give any excuses when they fall off a boulders they don't blame the setters, the disadvantages they often have and that the setters actually contribute to shaping this kind of thinking.

[@fakenews_scientist]

Whats the tattoo policies at Japanese climbing gyms?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Don’t think there’s any?

[@lil.gucchi_hi]

There is no rules against tatoo at maboo.

[@Gordyyx]

very cool video

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Wohooo

[@rafeeeefar]

Dude is all that sweat on your shirt or just part of the texture!?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

If you pay attention, the t shirt wasn’t wet at the beginning of the testing 🤣

[@fredb375]

@@Jonathan_sin88 wheres that t shirt from? looks hella nice

[@Jonathan_sin88]

@@fredb375Mountain Hardwear!!

[@Sozzzled]

In this video you say that people in Japan are stronger because routesetting is geared towards their height (or at least for women)... I'd argue that being short and climbing in a country with taller people presents you with MORE opportunities to become stronger. You're forced in to situations where you have to find more difficult ways to accomplish a climb than say a taller person would. Thus possibly making you a better climber...

[@duckberg]

🔥

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank houuu

[@OffbeatAct]

Really good video, incredibly high quality, nice editing, good pacing, good filmmaking. Very entertaining, only thing id mention is that the microphone for the commentary had a bit much gain and fluctuated a bit in volume. But ye if I couldnt see your sub count i would've assumed a much higher Subcount :)

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you for the kind words, I will try and upgrade asapppp

[@lmao1214]

This is a cool channel.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Glad you like ittt

[@powdah12]

WTF! You showed the clock saying 16.43 at 16.43 my time

[@tiagomiguel9538]

"We need Stress"

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Wise words

[@takuyamatsuda7214]

Damn, every time I see your vids it surprises me how relatively low your sub count is

[@Jonathan_sin88]

it's all good! I appreciate everyone who supports me, and honestly, I am just happy that there are people who watch my videos and enjoy them!!

[@takuyamatsuda7214]

Sounds good! I appreciate the sincerity and I hope you keep up with the good uploads.@@Jonathan_sin88

[@Cristyface]

Thankfully, I am not tall haha!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

you and me bothhhh

[@HalfAloiy]

I wish the route setters would take into consideration, that not all climbers (especially girls) are 1,80m tall 😕

[@Jonathan_sin88]

They tryyy, route setting is hard🤣be nice to your local setters

[@PapP148]

The answer is simple, WW2 eugenics programs

[@MELONOLDER101]

Climbing and smoking please don't combined those two things 🤣🤣🤣