How do Ocean Waves Work?

[@snapshot1467]

My teacher used this video and I don't think she even realized how much information was in here. Great job!

[@michaelenglish839]

After living on both coasts and this country's interior, I've seen the difference in people's attitudes towards the ocean and it's stunning. I've met so many people who have actually never been to the beach, and don't really care.

[@marshallsweatherhiking1820]

For pure swells over deep water, small parcels of water actually move in small circles with a radius about the same order as the height of the wave. The radius of motion decreases as an exponential function with depth. When the water gets shallower compered to the wavelength the motion becomes more and more elliptical, first near the base. Over very shallow water the motion of parcels becomes mostly horizontal. The horizontal "shallow water" model rarely applies to wind driven waves though, as they have too short of a wavelength compared to their height, and hence tend to break easily. Tsunamis OTOH have an extremely long wavelength compared to normal wind-generated waves. Therefore they can obey the "shallow water" model even when the water is over a hundred feet deep. The horizontal motion gets larger and larger as the water gets shallower, and it can have a long period of ten or more minutes. The long horizontal motion of water in a tsunami is what contains the destructive energy. The height isn't as important.

[@zahrashofiya4683]

THANK YOU YOU HELP ME PREPARE FOR MY TESTT

[@subatomic10]

Best explanation on waves , answered my questions that I couldn't find elsewhere, thanks !

[@Scientific.Eye1]

What software you use for creating the animation ?

[@omegabowl6189]

I'm taking high school marine bio. This really helped to understand the wave types and it follows the lesson criteria really well. Thanks for the help

[@hottrin6103]

lol im doing this in middle school

[@Havetosucceed]

@@hottrin6103 same

[@cadejust6777]

@@Havetosucceed You Forgot About Asteroid Created Tsunamis

[@RandomUsername175]

dude, I'm taking this in 5th grade, I'll use this as proof to show my teacher that our curriculum is difficult..

[@gravityspire5255]

fr@@RandomUsername175

[@eltonlam5553]

I'm doing home work and this video is so helpful .

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlo

[@mark9naviestoque561]

That means the water literally leveled unless the waves occurred.

[@sarahmillson1594]

But then why there are no waves in the lakes? first 2 types of waves (wind driven, tidal waves don't apply to the lakes?

[@delayedcreator4783]

lakes aren't large enough

[@Stitchlover-c2y]

Everyone here is for either exams or quizzes 😂

[@royyalgaming]

M not just curious

[@gloriawraycrooks8393]

I was just curious cause my best friend want to do a photoshoot in a beach with no waves

[@youtubeHOW]

Curiosity

[@lennoxbelier]

Curiousity

[@Stitchlover-c2y]

Ok well not all people

[@jamesmatthewacutim4936]

Why does large pools or a lake don't have waves? Doesn't gravity affect them too?

[@Artywastaken]

yes, gravity affects them, the thing is, on a much much smaller scale, a large pool would probably be still and would have no waves, this is because all the walls are not moving( unlike the continents that touch the ocean which are constantly drifting, breaking into each other, and sliding along) the lake however, would probably have mine waves because they are not exactly "controlled" and yes, a lake is a much smaller scale of the ocean, but quite larger than a pool. Yourwelcome

[@julimartraboulsi9588]

True

[@nightcloud598]

The deeper the water, the bigger the waves! Since a lake isn't very deep compared to the ocean, the waves formed there exist, but are tiny, therefore often go unnoticed.

[@IndiaNumberOneCoubtry]

Some lakes have waves idk why people replying to this comment say they dont. People surf on Lake Michigan. Look up ice beard surfer on yt

[@Artywastaken]

@@IndiaNumberOneCoubtry Thats a big lake, like a really big lake. Most lakes are not that big

[@darcy5823]

ELI5 - what happens to the wave energy when it hits the shore? Does it become wind? Energy traveling through air now instead of water? And I get that the wave moves through water, it's not the water moving, but at the apex of a wave there is more volume so some water is being displaced to create height? I really wish I'd taken more stem classes when I was younger!

[@delayedcreator4783]

the energy gets lost as sound ,heat and mainly kinetic and potential energy

[@EvolLove-t7c]

How do the wave energy dissipate when it reaches the shore?

[@delayedcreator4783]

friction

[@ajiebkp]

Nice and informative video, but 1:02 waves do not move up and down. The water particle moves in a circular (or ellips in shallow water) motions, it has velocities and accelerations in horizontal directions too. These wave kinematics are highest at the top, but decrease along the depth

[@marshallsweatherhiking1820]

Yes, but the motion becomes more of a horizontal ellipse near the base as the wave encounters shallow water. If the amplitude is large compared to the depth, a phase-decoupling occurs where upper portion of the wave travels faster than the lower portion. This leads wave breaking. After waves have fully broken they behave in a shock-like manner with a turbulent discontinuity in both height and motion at a sharp leading-edge. This discontinuous shock-like kinematic model applies to both tsunamis and smaller lapping beach waves. The motion is mostly horizontal outside of the turbulent break zone at this point.

[@dm3trimble]

thanks

[@bensnow6836]

I'm here to learn on my own time.

[@kingofrannoch]

What makes the waves return to the sea

[@oreclick2378]

gravity which again pulls water down

[@mooni2060]

Hhhhhh good question

[@justaguy4real]

So if no moon the oceans would be still as a lake? Awesome how coastal waves make such great ambient sounds

[@narmjep5674]

mikeyb byekim No, the sun is also responsible for tides

[@secretunknown2782]

No you are wrong the thing which moon creates are tides there is a lot of difference between tides and waves Waves are caused by air pressure and wind while tides are caused by moon there would still be waves if moon did not existed

[@mond646]

No, only tidal waves are caused by gravity, there would still be wind-driven waves and tsunamis

[@justaguy4real]

@@secretunknown2782 my understanding is that with the constant rotation of Earth and the moon's gravity pulling on the ocean waters that the tides constantly changing the impacted areas inconsistently are also have waves form too

[@sdwzed4585]

thanks this was helpful.

[@dimplesp4046]

Great video thanks

[@riz4564]

I am from Uzbekistan. I have never seen a beach or wave.I wish one day I will

[@rediyusputra8333]

enjoybel explanation

[@rexylem]

a big mistake at 0:50, water actually is moving along with the wave, that is called current.

[@Artywastaken]

It also bobs up and down, so he just forgot to add that part.

[@ajiebkp]

Waves do not cause the water particles to be displaced, rather it causes the particles to move in a circular motions (not up and down). When it comes to current, the two can interact (waves-current interactions), changing the property of the wave (wavelength/wavenumber). Current, on the other hand, is caused by different physical phenomenons, wind, temperature/pressure difference, salinity, coriolis force, tide, etc.

[@jimliu7086]

Thanks for explaining how waves work! It was really satisfying to understand that the wave moves through the particles and that the particles don’t move. Keep it up 👍👍

[@shanemcdougall6135]

778

[@sestriaxo5769]

1:05 id works by doing both moving forward and up and down

[@corzex7260]

I don't think there is evidence for this theory

[@saureah]

What

[@TyrannosaurusGaming]

This isn't even a theory it's a fact

[@corzex7260]

@@TyrannosaurusGaming prove

[@Boatdudefrontrunner]

So cool

[@sophiahallowell6579]

I had no idea this is amazing thank you so helpful 🙃🙂

[@ih3artabi]

POV: your here cause of school -_-

[@ayorindeosuntuyi1510]

Physics 😩😩😩

[@seth7796]

geography ;-;

[@blackiepoooooooo]

geography😐

[@chill5464]

no I randomly google this

[@mysteriousmessenger3258]

Same trying to impress my “smart” friend

[@Hercules003]

0:19 "2% of energy from ocean waves can be used to power the entire world". The big energy companies who keep hiking up the energy prices, do so by telling us about supply shortage. They need to see this video.

[@isaacflett1321]

Very difficult to extract that energy. Similar to saying 0.00...1% of the suns energy can power the planet. True but irrelevant if we can't extract it.

[@tedcurry9239]

Sooooo...you mean the speed of tidal waves equals to the speed of the earth's rotation?

[@sharkyrich4844]

I believe that waves are caused by oscillating pressures in weather systems that raise and drop the ocean surface. It's the only way I can account for the energy I'm seeing.

[@clarablayden1765]

Wavey tings 🌊🌊🌊

[@Omez213]

Helpful video

[@UdyGraphie]

Concerning channel

[@Hambxne]

Great way to start my monday morning! Thanks for the knowledge, amigo

[@ConcerningReality]

Thanks!!

[@moore9003]

Hola como Estes

[@concepciontv795]

“Who kept the sea inside its boundaries as it burst from the womb, job 38:8 tidal swell

[@tayoadenubi]

4 my gcse😅😢

[@willyouwright]

Also tides are formed by tugging of water on sides of planet . The way the tides move over shores is what causes tides. If there where no shores youd not be able to even see a wave.

[@jezmarshall9941]

If there were no shores, there would still be wind generated waves, just the same (but you'd need a to have a boat to see it)

[@nass7150]

Wow u science is really good

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdls

[@aayushmaharaj4613]

Thank you for the very helpful video! Just wondering, what software or app do you use for animating?

[@thethreesistersthreesister120]

You welcome I am the director

[@haniffaris8917]

Someone need to clarify the "It's the earth that's moving, not the water" bit for me in 02:03.

[@anmolsharma5134]

watch the complete video and different type of waves . tidal waves are generated through pull of moon and sun which varies as earth keeps moving. so waves are occuring because of rotation of earth so earth is moving not the water

[@hakimparwej]

Why water stored in big dams n big ponds do not create waves, crests, n tides due to gravitational force of moon n sun???

[@khan92asif]

Movement of ocean waves is ORBITAL PROGRESSIVE, which means water moves in circular orbits, due to forward up and backward down movement of water as the waves passes.

[@rifanbudi34]

Halocline, barrier between 2 seas, barrier between fresh water and sea water or other similar phenomenon : Check quran Sura Al Furqan, chapter 25 verse 53, sura An Naml, chapter 27 verse 61, Sura Ar Rahman, chapter 55 verse 19 & 20 Thanks

[@IndiaNumberOneCoubtry]

So?

[@payman309]

this video reminds me of school videos so pce out.

[@michelle_sea_view]

This is interesting..Thank you

[@zoompor1929]

Came to this video from school

[@kyleeke0wpa777]

Thanks so much

[@abc4lnation261]

Can someone tell me it’s not just me and waves and water are the same

[@Thomas56039]

1:50

[@sicktomystomachh]

here bc of ✨ school ✨

[@untilnow581]

great informational video, but animation is even betterrrrr

[@pawza1050]

Love your animations

[@ConcerningReality]

Thank you !

[@ScytherClaimed]

I was just curious of how waves work… This is probably some useless information that will make me feel smart later. I will use this in a conversation one day.

[@jamespharris2494]

Can the ocean wave back at you? Maybe. Because in nature the Earth, the Sun, and the Moon work in harmony to create "the waves". Maybe just for you. Peace.

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlm

[@HannahvanDijk-cm8cp]

I've always wondered, thank you😄

[@adangameplay3058]

I beat up a dead puffer fish on the shore

[@zamn__]

Wth‽

[@nass7150]

Like my science teacher

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdll0

[@vindigo47]

please redo this video w a better mic or less static in the background super distracting

[@willyouwright]

Actually the sun has a similar effect on tides as the moon. Yeah it's less but not as much as you'd think.

[@VexxdGaming]

He said "The gravitational forces on the Earth, Sun and Moon effect how the water on the Earth behaves. The Moon has the greatest effect on waves"

[@cutieworldwideee]

@@VexxdGaming not everyone listens😂

[@myfurryfam365]

Waves now scare me

[@hectorh.1341]

So on a calm day there are still waves. Gravity only makes things move down hill. Gravity doesn’t make leaves on trees move nor people. And the earth’s rotation is what makes water move. If gravity made water move then people would be surfing in their swimming pools. Make sense?

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdll00

[@TheUltimateWriterNZ]

Because the 'groundswell' comes from hundreds to thousands of km's away. Wind-driven swell is no good for most people - you want gentle offshore winds to keep it nice and clean with a good swell coming in :D

[@jezmarshall9941]

Swell is waves generated by wind far away, even if calm where you are. The Earth's rotation,coupled with the moon's gravity produce tides, but waves you see on the beach are generated by wind.

[@nadiaroxannamonterojimenez666]

No hablo ingles muy bien pero entiendo demasiaso bien

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlp0

[@sandwichesaresus5921]

I’m just curious

[@averageshinobi]

In my school this is work for year 5 XD

[@bradcrowell-dfwloanguy8265]

love it

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlr5

[@AlabhyaVeerKumar]

So the water is moving to only up and down in the ocean but once it reaches the shore it essentially moves left to right as well

[@Thelivingwordthesword]

The energies will will crush them all at once I will command the waves to go forth now those who committed financial transgressions against me will have to go away for some serious care they will become bags of salty sorrows

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlp

[@awisintaro]

God : Haah , I make the earth puked again

[@angl1364]

Don’t watch this while high

[@0xOPERAND]

Literally watching this while high lol😂

[@isluggy9498]

wavesofpeace

[@mrkps1986]

Very informative

[@dkjb5756]

Why moon does not impact the water kept in the pond or river 😆

[@delayedcreator4783]

its simply not large enough

[@user-md2qy5qi8h]

Wow

[@AIMBOT_EX]

wow

[@altafhusen2583]

I'm from colage

[@Godzilla_gaming2019]

Hi

[@evinscools]

Oh God mother

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlo5 Oh God Mother Oh God Father Oh Devil 😈 Mother Oh Devil 😈 Father

[@james712]

What does it mean the water doesn't actually move. I can feel it hitting me so hard when I go to the beach though!

[@Campbellclan4ever]

your feeling the energy release against the shore as stated at end of this video.

[@OverlordGaming]

I thought waves were caused by the rotation of the Earth. I think it was called the Coriolis effect?

[@burnbabyburn-od5sy]

so the moon has enough gravity to pull all the earths oceans but not enough to pull the flag on the moon down it just floats like zero gravity space is a cartoon at best and this is not how this stuff worlks

[@ConcerningReality]

The flag in the moon has a rod at the top to keep it straight. This is literally exactly how gravity works.

[@delayedcreator4783]

earth definitely isn't flat

[@burnbabyburn-od5sy]

tell me why chicago is visable from across the great lake its about 80 miles and should be under hundreds of feet of curve yet you can see all the way to the base of the buildings . and why no matter how high or low you are the horizon is always at eye levle when on a ball the higher you get the lower the horizon would be but it stays at eye levle@@delayedcreator4783

[@burnbabyburn-od5sy]

take the baller chalange all you have to do is proove the spinning ball earth and win ten grand and be the most famous person ever being the first person to proove it@@delayedcreator4783

[@aashirmahmood1373]

very helpful accept for the math part

[@herodime48]

Who's here because of school

[@Pinkoshaberibunny]

The moon

[@vijaysondkar8582]

Thanks for knowledge. Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👏👏

[@HonkyMonky]

Tsunami can also be produced by men, with atomic bomb deep under water

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlm6

[@willyouwright]

Waves do add but they don't transfer energy to each other. They always pass right through each other. If they run next each other at the same time and hit a shore that's just luck. Kingwaves.

[@ryankelly5524]

Why t f wasnt I taught this in school 😂

[@sharkyrich4844]

How can wind create the energy a wave has below the surface?

[@udayaron6268]

Yeet

[@mooni2060]

No waves in rivers or big lakes, whatever you teach you couldn't get the real reason for waves because it the ability of Allah

[@cadejust6777]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKTGh5ypjM-Sjdlt0

[@karolvides3561]

Traducción in espanish pls thanks

[@ruthyluigi1435]

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[@kulthumabdallah-g6g]

nyc

[@Ahmad-yh4eg]

Here after watching Baywatch. Dunno why...

[@AidenJackson7]

meeeeeeeeee

[@ruthyluigi1435]

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[@etnafortin]

hehe dislike number funny *sad noises while in class*

[@isabelvilla540]

Wow hi, didn't expect to find a fellow classmate in a KZbin comment section. Well, it was nice finding you I guess.