How Effective are Wax & Grease Removers on Fresh Wax? Let's Test!

[@claudiadavies5110]

Poorboys Strip Down works phenomenally well. It took a whole small bottle but it truly works perfectly!

[@SonofDarnell]

Wax mode continues to step his game up to the next level! #GREATNESS

[@tonipieleanu]

Thanks for that! I did a similar test about 2 years ago and left with a different hypothesis: solvent based wax removers might need some time to fully evaporate and show the true water behavior. I used Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax as my test mule, as it doesn't have the best beading and durability, I thought it would be easier to see when in fails. To my surprise, beading became better after hitting it with solvent based wax removers. You can check the results on my channel (Wax removal, there are 3 parts - not a plug for my channel, it's nothing special, just a bunch of mute videos, but if you want a different take). I want to redo the test at some point, it's something I'm really in to. One wax/residue remover I really like to use is Sonax Profiline Paint Prepare. Really nice to use, flash time is perfect and you can feel the paint getting grippier on the last wipe. I have not tried to remove wax, but only polishing oils. Expensive and I'm not sure if it's available in the US.

[@lodollar23]

This is fantastic for paint correction after a buffing burn. I'd like to see an updated video

[@FABAutomotiveDetailing]

Great comparison! I have not tried it yet but have heard that Griot’s new Foaming Surface Prep is amazing. Foam it on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes and “supposedly” it will remove even a fresh wax easily. They only sell it by the gallon right now because it was eating through the 35 oz bottles but they are suppose to start shipping soon.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks FAB! I'd like to eventually try Griot's Foaming Surface Prep out down the road, probably pick the 35oz size up and it looks like they're back in stock so they may have fixed the bottles! The last remaining tidbit of PB Strip Down ate through my bottle as well, and even Adam's Strip Wash ate through one of their sample size bottles that I had it in, it's still fine in their main bottle. I remember watching Auto Fanatic's first wash and rinse of his new GT350R using Foaming Surface Prep in the foam cannon, and he noted it left a lot of residue behind after the wash, and it irritated his eyes which is why I'm a big proponent of PPE especially when working with these harsher products.

[@HoosierDaddyDetailing]

The Griots foaming surface prep works great.... I found that it works best if you agitate lightly after the recommended dwell time though.

[@mikelon1010]

Sounds great, however I'm curious as to what it does to something like a black bumper

[@c6z061]

FAB Automotive Detailing I have griots surface prep foam and have been underwhelmed on fresh wax.

[@FABAutomotiveDetailing]

Wadester P. Coletrain That’s great and good information!

[@qrtrscale]

Two birds with one stone. An important test, thank you!

[@qrtrscale]

What is your advice for stripping SiO2 toppers and spray/wipe sealants? Or are they best removed with some sort of compound?

[@stenblann9784]

Been jonesing for some more Waxmode vids. Thanks for all your hard work.

[@t57f100]

hello i hit the button for you sir and yes im glad you did the short term strip down because the industry is confusing to a lot of people including me.NEW HERE to paint correcting and wow i just washed my car with purple car wash and clayed my car now if i wash it that might not remove all the residue so what to use thats where i went nuts seems easy but all the products thrown at you is just over whelming.it took a day to figure out prep all is the key a solvent based paint prep is the key no IPA stuff stay away it will ruin the clear coat over time not good.SO FROM ME THANK YOU people use prep all.after claying and during the paint correction process between compounds and as a pre wax cleaner.thank you for the correct video you made keep doing this please.THANK YOU

[@WaxMode]

Cheers Tony!

[@2010stoof]

I've never tried strip down but seeing how it worked on the untouched center section I'm impressed. I'm guessing it's not dilutable but wow does it work. Love to see how it does with some very tenacious sealants. One that comes to mind, although cheap, is turtle wax seal and shine. That stuff seems to do well with chemicals.

[@WaxMode]

2010stoof - I’ll definitely have to pick some more Strip Down up, I ran out before I started testing Seal N Shine so I don’t know how it compares to cleaners like Super Clean, LA’s Totally Awesome, Zep Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser, Formula 88, and Wheel Brightener that I’ve tried to dump on fresh Seal N Shine.

[@2010stoof]

Looking forward to hearing how it does. Seal and shine may not last the longest in weather but it sure is chemical resistant. And if I get a gallon, it'll just be for personal use. Price is steep but seems to work very well

[@qrtrscale]

2010stoof I’d also like to see this test done on SiO2 products.

[@littlerhino2006]

Great video man, I appreciate the tests.

[@MarkusKleis]

Solid video and love the commentary, as always. Thanks for the info Kyle!

[@WaxMode]

Markus Kleis - Glad you enjoy the content, always appreciate the feedback!

[@jeffreyflayter9027]

Can’t wait to try Meguiars M122!!!

[@joerossi4231]

This is another great comparison video from you. As we've talked in the past the PBW Strip Down indeed works very well. I understand your issue with the price but for me having to only use it once i didnt mind. The thing i like that you did in this video was wipe everything down with Prep-All and then water test again which i dont think you did in the video where you first tested PBW? But i would assume since you did that , that it would have removed any surfactants left behind from the Strip Down showing that it clearly removed the Zymol.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks Joe! Part of the issue is trying to find that baseline of how the paint behaves with water when it's fully bare, and this can be different based on the type of paint we're working with. So I've got a lot of tests I'm planning, we'll get the sandpaper out on this test panel and then I've got a few more tests that I want to do with Prep-All and IPA to provide an updated video. Another potential issue is some solvents can take a bit longer to fully evaporate off the surface even though it looks like they're wiping clean, could give us a false result as well. A lot of testing coming up!

[@2010stoof]

I like prep all. Just spray on, let sit, wipe down and it flashes right off. I prefer to use the gallon liquid. What does worry me is possible damage to sprayer mechanism. Last time I used it I pulled sprayer head and pumped to empty mechanism best I could but going to leave some in a bottle without pumping out of spray head and see how it affects the spray head just sitting.

[@WaxMode]

Prep-All ate through a few of my sprayers now, lately the chemical resistant double-action sprayers from Autogeek. So I've got to go on a hunt for sprayers with the right seals that are better against solvents. I'm keeping an eye on Matt's bottle excursion from Obsessed Garage, hoping he finds an ultimate bottle solution and I'll likely try out some from his latest batch from Pressol.

[@2010stoof]

@@WaxMode well, for now, like I said if you take sprayer out of bottle, pump until you empty the mechanism, then screw back on bottle while it's in storage it should extend the life of it.

[@tobiasrice]

I've been using Panel Wipe as well and have no complaints. I do dilute it 1:1 which takes the sting out of the cost, but now you have me wondering just how effective it is diluted, and just how far you can dilute it and still be effective. That might be worth testing as well. Keep up the great content!

[@ETuss713]

Prep all is just a blend of naphtha and kerosene. It works well for its intended purpose of pre paint prep also. I have found it works great for cleaning guns too. I mix it with mineral oil to retard the flash to help soak into the carbon. Very simple yet effective product.

[@WaxMode]

It’s magical on the paint, I haven’t seen any issues using it for pre-prep applications of waxes/sealants/coatings. I’ve gone through a handful of sprayer tops though and it likes to leak through them as well, have you found a durable sprayer bottle for yours or do you pour straight into the rag?

[@ETuss713]

@@WaxMode Solo 418 one hand pump sprayer. Theres several versions. In automotive paint we use them to spray cleaners like prep all, 91% Isopropyl alcohol, and others. Prep all gets used on primer and base to make sure its clean. A finished panel with clear should be just fine with it used as a wipe. I wouldnt saturate it for a long time though.

[@ACitizenOfOurWorld]

That PoorBoys Strip Down was impressive. I wonder how it would fare against P21S? Dawn can't strip it from my car. Nor can 8 months of Seattle rain. BTW, long time ago I sprung for Zymol Concours. Was not impressed with its application compared with the much less expensive P21S.

[@WaxMode]

I still haven't picked up P21S Concours to see how it fares side by side with S100 Carnauba Wax. I used to use P21S 100% Carnauba a ton back in the day, loved that wax as well, noticed that it likes to sweat like Zymol though when I moved to Florida. I've got a sampler size of Zymol Concours, definitely a lot different in application compared to S100 and P21S, a bit heavier but decent durability for a paste wax. It's one of the first waxes in the Zymol line that I have that actually smells different, that's one of my peeves about Zymol is so many of the waxes feel, perform, and smell nearly exactly the same as the other. Concours, Destiny, Atlantique and Vintage were some of the only ones that had noticeably different scents that I've used. Strip Down should be able to tear through P21S Concours!

[@ACitizenOfOurWorld]

@@WaxMode Thanks for the reply as well as the product testing you do for us.

[@PapaSmurf918Detail]

Thank you for this video.. recently did a detail and wash having a hard time removing whatever protection was on it. I used PP vehicle and boat mixed with a little superclean. Washed it multiple times and where some spots were knocked down most of the protection was still there. I'm going to get some prep all. How about Geyon prep?? Or Gyeon.. idk if I spelled that right. I have some of that as I wanted to try something other than my Rustoleum.. as always great video my friend 👍

[@WaxMode]

Glad you enjoy the videos! Gyeon Prep is going to be very similar to CarPro Eraser, both of which are similar in performance to a regular IPA mixture. They're great for cleaning up polishing oils but won't come close to knocking down fresh waxes and sealants. And part of my switch over to more significant panel wipes like Prep-All is due to how expensive Eraser and Gyeon Prep are. Those two are more enjoyable to work with compared to IPA and smell absolutely fantastic, but instead I can use Prep-All as a more effective pre-claying or pre-polishing panel wipe to knock down the impact of waxes or clay lubricants, and also after the polishing step to fully remove the polishing oils at a much lower cost. So the versatility is great, but I definitely recommend more PPE when using it which is a turnoff for some guys. I've worked with PP Vehicle & Boat a lot, smells so good, but I wouldn't recommend specifically as a wax remover. If you decide to go with Prep-All let me know how it turns out. The aerosol version you can pick up over the counter at Advance Auto, I picked up the gallon version on Amazon and haven't noticed a difference in performance between the two.

[@PapaSmurf918Detail]

@@WaxMode ahhhh ok. That makes perfect sense. Prep all is a win win.. versatility is key! appreciate that reply. I'm going to definitely give it a try! I'll let you know how I like it. Now if only I can get this rain to go away so I can have some fun!!😄 have a good one brother!👍

[@c6z061]

Prep All is light years better/easier to use than Rustoleum. Hate that stuff. Prep All is really good and cost effective.

[@PapaSmurf918Detail]

@@c6z061 👍👍 going with a gallon of it✊. Thanks man!

[@c6z061]

PapaSmurf918 you will love it, trust me!! Sooooo easy to work with!!!!

[@karlinwilliamson9329]

Always great videos. I was wondering if you can use this before applying ceramic coating

[@WaxMode]

Thanks Karlin! I would recommend Klean-Strip Prep-All as your main prep before using a ceramic coating. Now again, I always recommend polishing the paint as a prerequisite before applying a coating because any oxidized paint surface can hinder coating performance, but Prep-All is perfect for that final wipe right before applying your coating.

[@karlinwilliamson9329]

@@WaxMode always an honor to see your work. And thank you

[@Jason-pt3gw]

Love the comparison video. I would have liked to see you apply the products to get an idea of their make-up and working characteristics. I have used Rustoleum in my past and been happy with the results. In my head (insert doubt here) its lack of "hot" volatility makes it feel safer for paint. Also, the Rustoleum is quite slick/soapy. When I used it, I sprayed it on the panel/car and then wiped the car down with a plush microfiber. Some way through the car, the microfiber was saturated. I would then go back over the car wth the saturated microfiber. This allowed me to work the material in more without it flashing off and seemed to have good results. All the while, its so slick I didn't notice any marring of the paint. I did follow this up with a thorough rinsing and blow drying of the paint due to the lack of flashing this product exhibits. Some will contest the tap water would introduce contaminants but I didn't find any apparent ill-effects of this. The water laid down on the paint very well and the flooding of the panels just di more to inspire confidence everything you didn't want on there had a chance to be flooded off rather than removed from a single towel wipe. I'm tempted to try Kleenstrip Prep-All but feel hesitant/concerned with how volatile it sounds. With forums stating even IPA will penetrate clearcoat (thus some caution against its use) I'm assuming the Prep-All, being more volatile than IPA, will penetrate it as well. It might not be significant as it sounds like it flashes quickly but I'm not sure how one would know that. Also seems counter-productive as if it were to have long term effects, its working directly against this whole paint protection mindset. Anyways, thought I would chime in, maybe get some opinions. Great video though. Keep it up!

[@WaxMode]

I'll have to grab another bottle of the Rustoleum because I've heard from a few guys that were having a much better experience with it compared to what I was noticing. I haven't noticed any negative reactions using Prep-All so far and I have used it quite a bit, no bubbling or etching marks from spraying it and allowing it to flash naturally without wiping. It seems very safe, spreading it on the surface through the microfiber feels fantastic, wipes so much better than my bottles of Rustoleum and Duplicolor. Decent price on the gallon size as well, which is perhaps the biggest benefit compared to Gtechniq Panel Wipe and CarPro Eraser. This reminds me I need to pull Panel Wipe out for testing.

[@hallmarksdetailingllc8078]

If you want something cheaper then Prep-All that works better try taking Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner diluted 4:1 or even straight and using it as a wax & grease remover. Or use Optimum Power Clean undiluted. Works better then prep-all in my experience.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks for the feedback! I've got some Power Clean on the way from the Cyber sale from Autogeek, always heard great things about it so I'm looking forward to trying it out next to Strip Down.

[@hallmarksdetailingllc8078]

@@WaxMode I was told by an Optimum Rep when I was complaining about their polish being crap to use power clean over the other product to see if the swirls came back (they didn't) his response was "cool". Use power clean straight out of the bottle as a panel wipe to ensure all oils are clean from the surface. Also for what it's worth when painting cars we use multiple solvents before painting. 91% IPA, Degreaser, Panel Prep and hell sometimes even Acetone/Lacquer Thinner gets wiped onto the panel before painting. In my body shop we use LA's Totally Awesome first, then go over that with 91% IPA / Acetone then go over that with Panel Wipe and then finally a tack cloth before spraying.

[@patrickdubuc3439]

Can you use these products on automotive frames and rearend?

[@c6z061]

Excellenttttttttttttttttt video!!!!!!!!!!! I’m definitely going to pick up a gallon of strip down. I won’t use it as much as you, so it’ll last a while. I will still use Prep All to remove polishing oils and as a general panel wipe.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks a bunch Brewinz! Let me know how it turns out for you, I haven't heard much feedback from guys working with it and I'll likely pick up a gallon during this current Autogeek sale to continue tests.

[@DetailingBreakdown]

I get wax sweat out here in Vegas. Don’t know how to stop it. Glad I’m not the only one

[@WaxMode]

Some waxes it's just practically unavoidable in certain climates. I haven't had problems with sweating using Pinnacle Souveran.

[@Engineered2Detail]

Omg yes I'm in FL too and I hate Rust-Oleum wax remover. I basically didn't use it all and got rid of it and preferred just regular diluted IPA.

[@WaxMode]

Right on, side by side with Prep-All there's no way I would reach for Rustoleum.

[@skzion2]

@@WaxMode Very interesting video ... but I don't understand your aversion to the Rust-Oleum product. It sure seemed to work. It may need to be followed by another cleaner, though...

[@UKSportsFan]

Great video. Because of your PB Strip Down video I bought a 17 ounce bottle but havent used it yet. I'll be giving it a shot in a few months along with Adam's Strip Wash to see about removing the Seal N Shine I literally just applied. Do you think following up Strip Down with CarPro Eraser would be sufficient, or should I see about adding another step?

[@WaxMode]

Let me know how it turns out for you! I haven't been able to test Seal N Shine against Strip Down, it's one of the most resistant spray sealants I've tested chemicals against so it's very possible that Strip Down + Eraser won't be enough to knock it down significantly. I still recommend abrasive polishing to remove Seal N Shine but once I get back to Florida I'll start testing more products with it to see how we can knock it down significantly without using abrasives.

[@ShurikGi]

Great topic! Have you considered to try more common stuff like Mineral Spirits or White Spirit ?

[@WaxMode]

Hey Sasha, I have more recently worked with Klean Strip's Mineral Spirits and in general it's a long dwell type of solvent that takes longer to flash off or evaporate, not as aggressive as some other types. Been too cold for direct impact testing out here in Chicago so once I get back to Florida I'll run some strip tests with it.

[@qrtrscale]

Hey, could we request that you test the water-based version of Prep All? May not be as effective but perhaps easier on the paint and friendlier to the environment.

[@WaxMode]

Possibly in the future, I'm running low on Prep-All currently so I may reorder both types to test side by side.

[@tonymattisson6158]

Great video and interesting! Have you tried to just dilute the Carpro Reset at 1:10-1:20 in a spray bottle? Just spray on a slightly wet panel and spray on a damp mf wash mitt/pad. After a dwell time so it's just not drying you work it in with the wash media. And letting that dwell until it's about to dry on the paint. Working a couple of panels at the time usually get the dwell time naturally. Have not been doing testing on it. But once tried it on a well working Gyeon Wet Coat. And also to make sure it was not leaving residue left in this strong dilution I washed with Reset at 1:500 as recommended and it where flat standing water on the paint. Got the tips from Sandro at Car Craft Auto Detailing Channel but he uses NV Snow soap at 1:10 and uses this for the decon wash on ceramic coatings. So it's seems to be a kind of gentle way to do a strip wash to knock down the most of the LSP. Then a wax and grease remover could be an option to go with before you polishing or reapply the LSP. As a panel prep wipe product it's no good I think. But can be handy for those that maybe don't have anything that knock down the most of the LSP. But may have Reset or another car soap that gets stronger in the desolving part on LSP. As all car soaps don't get this even if you where to not dilute it. Thinking it's about what kind of surfactans they use and how effective it gets in stronger dilutions. Will looking and see if we have Prep-All here in Sweden. Or finding another wax and grease remover.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks for the recommendation Tony, I'll try giving that a shot with Reset!

[@ejg34]

I can attest that reset will strip waxes and sealants when diluted less. It seems to be a strong soap and knocks my sealant down if I dilute it less.

[@GuillermoFletes2]

Do you recommend using the prep all and IPA after or just prep all?

[@PeteyMcSavage]

There is an awesome panel wipe video of kelly Harris from UK putting it up against IPA panel wipe...it was a beast. I posted it on autogeek forum. Is strip down water based?

[@WaxMode]

Thanks for the heads up! I'll reach out to the Poorboy's guys to see how they've reformulated this and what makes it different compared to their other APC and degreaser, and more expensive. I got a gallon of this during the Cyber sale on Autogeek, as well as Optimum Power Clean to see what I like better during the wash process.

[@snail415]

Here’s my situation: I’ve got old Fusso on my black car. At the time I applied it, I hadn’t mastered the application technique and definitely have holograms. I intend to strip-down the car, light-polish with 3D One, and then apply Collinite Fleetwax and 915. If using Prep-All, is this something you use post-Dawn wash and post-polish? I’m concerned about the Texas summer heat complicating this entire (Prep-All) process. Appreciate your recommendations, and all you do.

[@WaxMode]

Yes, Prep-All I use as a substitute for an isopropyl alcohol based wipedown specifically for use after polishing. But double check your temperatures, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend if the paint is too hot, although I haven’t had issues using it in the heat, all paint types are different and there’s potential for a negative reaction in high heat situations.

[@soapa4279]

Are you going to test Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax in the near future? I have a bottle and noticed the weirdest thing is that it does not haze and dries like 80% clear. Water beading is about 90% almost Fusso Coat. Pretty impressive considering how easy it was to use. I’m just curious how it resists chemicals (which I’m not testing my own car lol)

[@WaxMode]

The new Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax is definitely on my list to try out when they release it. I'm extremely excited to work with much of what Meguiar's is planning to release for 2020, they've got a lot of protection based products that have piqued my interest so definitely expect a lot of test videos in the future. If you're talking about the current Hybrid Ceramic Wax, I should have a video of this paired up with CMX, Seal N Shine, and Hybrid Ceramic Spray Coating. I've had a lot of guys that don't have polishers wondering how easy these are to knock down or remove without abrasives when they want to try different products out.

[@soapa4279]

WaxMode Yup! Talking about the 2020 liquid version in the neon bottle. It’s actually available now on Amazon, www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-G200416-Hybrid-Ceramic-Liquid/dp/B081489MTX/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=ceramic+wax&qid=1575524628&sr=8-10 Looking forward to your future video on this.

[@WaxMode]

Soap A - Oh wow, thanks for the heads up! Didn’t realize they were dropping these that early.

[@BitcoinUnderLegalLegislation]

Hmm, interesting video. Looks like the price for paint correction just went up.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks for watching Salvador! The price should go up, back therapy isn't cheap!

[@dybo79]

You should do a video about simple green concentrate to remove wax. I heard 50/50 mix with water works well.

[@seansean8008]

Great video, but I feel like I am missing something. If the Prep all takes two or three passes to do what one pass of Strip down does, or appears to do, it would seem that Strip Down would be the easier (but more expensive) option to save time and effort in the first step wax/sealant removal. Am I missing something on PoorBoy's effectiveness vs the Prep All.

[@WaxMode]

Strip Down definitely does the better stripping job in this case. But Prep-All's balance of price, its knockdown effect, and the ability to use it as a post-polishing wipedown without needing to rinse it off or use it during the wash makes it the more attractive all-around product for me and so I incorporate it much more into my regiment compared to Strip Down.

[@seansean8008]

@@WaxMode Awesome. Thank you for the clarification!

[@vinosfinostapasandwinebar5109]

I need some help and a few concerns. I bought a new Toyota that came with a Toyoguard sealant from the SE Distributor. I want to ceramic coat the whole car but not crazy taking 205 to a fresh clear coat. I am new to detailing. There are no swirls and therefore no paint correction needed. What do you suggest to remove the sealant so I can apply a polish before applying the coating. I am familiar with the ceramic coating steps but getting to bare paint is my issue I need help with. Thanks in advance.

[@joshuafranzke2724]

Hey man ! Whats your take on acetone and windex mixture ? Have you tested it ? And does it work.?

[@WaxMode]

Hey Josh, I haven't tried this mixture, I would assume any amount of acetone would do a number on wax/sealant protection, it's just trying to balance effectiveness with clearcoat/paint safety. Acetone is not something that I've done much testing with, although in others' tests I have seen it be quite effective in immediately removing wax/sealants, but this was on silicon wafers and not clearcoated surfaces.

[@joshuafranzke2724]

@@WaxMode honestly you should try it ! Lets see what it does dona quick little video hahaha

[@hayden199516]

Hey man! Did you ever get around to testing Prep-All vs Gtechniq Panel wipe? I'd love to hear the results! Also, I bought some poorboys strip down with a 25% off sale at Autogeek. It's some potent and good stuff! I don't doubt that it really removes wax, especially after using Reset to go over it after!

[@danielbonner8309]

Well done video though Im late to the party. Have every tried hard water spot remover to remove sealants. By chance I used CG HD waterspot remover for its intended purpose. It seems to have removed all the hydrophobic properties of a ceramic hybrid wax. If goo gone is safe on paint thatll take it off but then you gotta get that crap off. It takes wax off surfboard at least 😂. All the waxstrip soaps seem to be b.s.

[@atkersonhart5033]

After polishing how heavy of a final coat with Prep All should I use a dusting a medium or heavy coat? After that final wipe down is there any wait time before I can put a ceramic coating down? Thank you

[@WaxMode]

A medium amount should be sufficient. I like to cover my working area with the spray, wait a few seconds, then wipe in and make sure it flashes off on the final wipe down. This is opposed to a lighter spray not covering your working area, or spraying directly into the towel and wiping instead. You want Prep-All to penetrate and lift the oils, then wipe them into the towel. Still, test on a small spot of your paint first before going ham on it, just to make sure everything is ok, I have not had a bad reaction using Prep-All on any paint so far but I suppose with any heavier solvent there’s always a risk on certain finicky paint. Not all prep products can be used like this, for example Gtechniq Panel Wipe and Duplicolor Prep Spray aerosol can not be directly sprayed onto the paint, it will cause immediate swelling, nor do I recommend either product as a result for detailing work. Give the paint about 15 minutes to settle after using Prep-All before coating, this is to allow the solvents some time to fully flash/evaporate off. Definitely use a good half-mask respirator, Prep-All is naphtha and mineral spirits based, gives me a killer headache without good filtration mask, it’s the only negative of the product.

[@bekiro28]

poorboys is a water base or solvent base ?

[@WaxMode]

Poorboy's Strip Down is an APC, not what I would consider a panel wipe at all so more on the alkaline spectrum, it needs to be rinsed off the surface and will not flash off like the naptha-based Prep-All.

[@bekiro28]

WaxMode you are the best when it comes to paint finish and protect i learned a lot from you thank you so much for your experience

[@bekiro28]

WaxMode i just got a gallon of prep all in the mail after this video now when i use prep all do i need to neutralize it afterwards

[@OuzoLouGarage]

Do you have any experience as a auto painter and mixing auto paint?

[@WaxMode]

Ouzo Lou Garage - Not for a long time, I took autobody and painting as a course throughout high school but that’s the last time I mixed paint. That course also introduced me to rotary polishing and is what drew me towards detailing altogether. I do watch The Gunman on a regular basis here on KZbin to quench my painting fix, still planning on getting a compressor with a mini spray gun to dive into occasional reworks and spraying test panels.

[@OuzoLouGarage]

@@WaxMode I was wonder if you did seem like you know a lot about auto paint. I was an auto painter for auto manufacturer we painted for the big 3 . Plus did auto body at home on some of my cars i had. Thanks for sharing

[@freddyj5845]

Should I use paint prep after applying compound and polish?? Before applying sealant/wax? Thanks

[@WaxMode]

I do, mainly as a cleanup for the polishing residue, also to check that my polishing was adequate for the defects that I was looking to remove. Sometimes you can have those oils left behind that can hide really light marring, so cleaning up with an IPA wipe or something like Prep-All can benefit me.

[@freddyj5845]

@@WaxMode thank you for the response! I’ve been watching all these detail videos and I just get lost lol! I got me a can of prep all! From what I gather you can use prep all instead of an IPA? Thanks again for the advise!

[@c6z061]

Have you seen forensic detailings recent video about prep sprays? ie...prep all may not be the best for removing oils/fillers from water based polishes

[@WaxMode]

Yes that was a great little demonstration that Jon set up and it’s not something that I’ve focused on, it’s worth delving into further. I’ve been meaning to do an update video to the baseline water behavior of the panel after polishing so I can tackle and test this concept for the new video. I’ve been running the APC/degreaser testing with the new HS Ceramic Spray Coating, as a test for guys who want to know what can knock it down significantly if they want to start with a clean slate without abrasives. And on the sections that I polished out with 3D One, and the other with M210 both followed up with Prep-All wipedowns, the water behavior is very close to the two applications of Prep-All on top of the cured spray coating after everything was Reset washed and IPA wiped at 15%. While the other sections gone over with Opti Power Clean and Strip Down showed a significantly slower water behavior at first, once the panels are washed, dried, and IPA wiped the water behavior evens out significantly, just a bit slower than the polished and Prep-All sections. Overall, it’s pointing out the confusion of knowing exactly when we’ve fully knocked down the products, this is the reason why I’ve always prepped with abrasives because the baseline water behavior for polished paint on some panels is not the same as the behavior after using a Strip Down decon. Polished paint takes longer to form a more hydrophilic surface, but the idea that we can improve the water behavior of the Strip Down section by wiping it back down thoroughly with a clean microfiber after washing with Reset, and even more when running IPA on top, this doesn’t necessarily mean the wax hasn’t fully been removed. But we’re still stuck in this thought process of not knowing Strip Down’s true performance. Geeky stuff but the testing goes on!

[@c6z061]

WaxMode this is why I love your channel!!

[@lakings505]

Great info thanks for sharing !

[@dover1966]

How can I remove polish from metallic matte paint

[@TheDex302]

I just bought the duplicate-color to use after clay and after polish. Will it handle that?

[@Auris58]

Bilt Hamber Cleanser Fluid I find very effective.

[@WaxMode]

I would love to try Cleanser Fluid out, heard a lot of great things from the guys on the DetailingWorld forum. Just waiting for a US based distributor to pop up so that I can get my hands on it as well as a few other Bilt Hamber products.

[@guitarapprentice1094]

Hey man, I'm having a problem with a car I'm working on and I was hoping you might be able to help. My dad recently bought a new ford fusion and when I was claying the windows I could see and feel a greasy rainbow-looking residue. After I was done I dried the car off and wiped everything down with carpro eraser, thinking that it would strip off whatever that residue was from the glass and probably the paint as well. I followed it up with the new hybrid ceramic spray coating from turtle wax and left it over night to cure. When I came back the next day to do a water test it hadn't bonded to most of the car. There were a few areas here and there that were beading but most of it was flat, especially the windows. Earlier I tried wiping the entire car down with diluted apc and applying a spray and rinse sealant to see if it would bond. It helped with most of the panels but the glass is still flat. His car is a lease so I really don't want to waste time and energy polishing it. Is there a paint prep product that you would recommend that's strong enough to remove the residue but safe on glass and the plastic/rubber trim around it? Also, in your experience, is it necessary to use an iron remover in addition to clay to get the best performance out of a sealant? Or is just claying and paint prep good enough?

[@WaxMode]

Hey Micah, I'm still very much a hard advocate for abrasive prepwork. I did a video a few years ago showing the difference in performance using Brilliant Shine Detailer on top of paint that was clayed, compared to how it performed after polishing the paint and there was a night and day improvement after using abrasives to prep: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWWrdqNrerumfM0 In my experience, Iron X doesn't improve the bond of the wax or sealant, it's merely an assist to begin tackling through heavy iron contaminants before the clay bar, but the bulk of the work is still being done with the clay. I largely don't use Iron X unless the contamination is very significant. I have still run into situations where a heavy chemical decon with degreasers and stripping products, paired after with Iron X, then clay, would still not result in the protectant performing as well as going the extra step to polish the paint. I've seen the same performance improvement on the glass as well with abrasives. So I have not found any prep spray or APC or degreaser prep the surface in the same way that abrasives do, when it comes to allowing the top product to perform at its highest level.

[@guitarapprentice1094]

@@WaxMode Alright thanks for the info I appreciate it. Love your videos by the way. Great stuff.

[@tonyhasstonyhass]

Have you ever found anything that works on matte finish? I have some dog drool on my matte black paint finish, and nothing will get rid of it. Was wondering if prep all would be safe to use on my matte black paint. Thabk you in advance if you have any suggestions.

[@KevinMeyer-f9c]

Cycle care makes an AMAZING cleaner for matte finishes. Their entire line of products are some of the best technology I’ve ever used!!

[@tonyhasstonyhass]

@@KevinMeyer-f9c thank you

[@sandro14esandro14e]

Never used these products, thinking of getting some for a totally separate paint job project, in the meantime might have done a poor wax job on black, that was perfect till last year, resulting in swirls, will wax and greaser remover help this to start over?

[@WaxMode]

Your best results will come from an abrasive polish with a polisher, but yes the Prep-All can help tackle through the wax, it may take a few applications to knock it down a bit but it should be safe. Use in a small spot first before going wild with it, need to test how these react on your paint to be extra careful.

[@semiephemeral9]

Hey wax have you ever tried spies hecker 7010 or the PPG stuff ? Spies is good stuff.

[@c6z061]

LuckySixes I’ve heard Spies is really good, but expensive.

[@semiephemeral9]

@@c6z061 yeah it's a little spendy I agree.

[@WaxMode]

Definitely heard of Spies Hecker, a bit harder to get my hands on. Eventually I'll work my way over to testing full blown body shop level wax and grease removers to see how they compare to Prep-All as my panel wipe of choice.

[@TIMBRRMUSIC]

TacSystem's Oil Zero

[@johnwagner4559]

Whats inexpensive and good to strip old waxes and sealants? I use alot of detail sprays and tw seal and shine and I want to start fresh. Thanks!

[@soapa4279]

Meguiars Wash Plus gets my vote. Wash the car as normal, then use Wash Plus on a microfiber mitt. Safely and gently polishes out any wax or sealant. Though I have found the extreme durable sealants like Fusso Coat takes a few more passes, but it works.

[@johnwagner4559]

@@soapa4279 Thanks! Can I put some of it into a bucket of water (as a traditional soap) so I can wash the car with it? Without putting it on a MIT after already washing the car I mean. Killing two birds with one stone..

[@WaxMode]

@@johnwagner4559 - Generally when I'm working with Wash Plus and using it directly onto the wash mitt, I need to be a bit aggressive and usually it takes a few passes to fully knock down the sealant. The issue is I've always noticed light marring no matter what type of mitt I've worked with using it like this. The marring is easily removed with the polisher and light abrasive but it defeats the purpose if the goal is to try and remove the wax or sealant without pulling the polisher out. Could just be the type of paints I'm working with. You can use Wash Plus as a regular wash soap in the bucket, but you're not going to be able to effectively knock products down unless you apply it directly to the wash mitt after ringing some of the water out of the mitt. It's kind of like polishing by hand like that which I'm not a fan of but some have had good results without marring. I still like Prep-All as a good balance between performance and price. With abrasives we can be more convinced that full removal is being done, but without abrasives we need to have some skepticism. Prep All can effectively knock down a lot of products to a level that should satisfy those that aren't working with polishers and abrasives. PB Strip Down is effective as well, I just know a lot of guys are going to eat through a 16oz bottle at $13 fairly quickly.

[@johnwagner4559]

@@WaxMode Thank you.

[@johnwagner4559]

@@WaxMode How do I feel about chemical guy's clean slate? Or they're wipe out?

[@cacocorlino3666]

So what you're saying is there isn't any 1 product that will completely strip any wax or sealant? I would need a combo of a couple products?

[@WaxMode]

Right, aside from abrasives there are still a wide variety of different waxes and sealants that when fresh and healthy, can still be highly resistant against different APC's, degreasers, acids, and solvents. If you ask me, what is the best method to prep the paint for product testing to ensure with a higher degree of certainty that the previous products were removed? The short answer is to use some form of polish with abrasives once the paint has been cleaned. However, if the question is should I use abrasives to prep the paint prior to applying every single wax or sealant on my personal car? That answer is no. I like to knock protection down before using the polisher with abrasives, because sometimes that layer of wax or sealant on the paint can impede the efficiency of the abrasives to cut and abrade effectively. Prep-All has been a good all-around paint prep for that task, knock the protection down and maybe not fully remove it because it's not capable of it, but make it easier for the abrasives to perform as normal. And I like that more than using any stripping style of soap which aren't effective enough on a variety of different fresh protectants.

[@onrdetailingnews802]

Great video buddy tfs

[@TheDex302]

Wouldn’t these be suited better and meant more for stripping old waxes, or just removing whatever is left after a strip wash? Would they be good to remove clay lube and polish oils? It seems that’s what they’re meant for rather than removing new fresh wax.

[@WaxMode]

My issue is I really need something to tackle fresh products effectively. And if you're painting, you REALLY want something that is going to tackle through silicone based products, so these dedicated wax & grease removers should be able to handle fresh protectants. Duplicolor is a dud for me, and Rustoleum I do NOT like as a product to remove polish oils because it does not flash cleanly. The paint feels horrible after using Rustoleum, whereas Prep-All is the perfect balance between strength and excellent wipeability, as well as paint safety.

[@Duckie1333]

What would you recommend to get TW SNS off? I have been told would more than likely require a polish.

[@WaxMode]

Doug Harper - Seal N Shine is a tenacious sealant in the short term. You can knock it down with a few applications of different cleaners like Super Clean, and go over with a panel wipe before applying a new product, but polishing with some form of abrasive is definitely what I would recommend. Even a sealant that’s possibly not fully removed but knocked down can still allow for a new product to stick effectively, just depends on your desired amount of prep to get the most out of the new sealant you want to try out. I’m planning on running more tests when I get back to Florida with Seal N Shine and their new Ceramic Spray Coating regarding removal attempts with nothing but chemicals so expect a video in the future where I delve into this topic.

[@cacocorlino3666]

Lol the tw sns 😂what a product. I spend a couple hours trying to take it off. Unconcentrated purple power. An hour of IPA. Nothing. Didn't touch it. I said I'm not wasting anymore time and just went to compound. Just bought rustoleum wax and tar remover. Gonna see if it works on the tw sns.

[@bradschut9104]

Great video unfortunately I have a few bottles of rustoleum left. Currently have hydro charge on my truck that will be close to a year old. If I am going to be polishing anyways does it really matter if rustoleum isn’t nocking it all the way down? I’m guessing with the rest of this Michigan winter and the salts and stuff we have here there isn’t going to be a lot left anyways. I was just going to wash with clean slate and then use rustoleum to get rid of whatever is left before polishing with 3D one. Would love your thoughts

[@WaxMode]

At 1 year old your polish should have no problem cutting through Hydro Charge without needing to knock it down further using a wax and grease remover. Especially if you're using 3D One which has a wide range of cut. I'm loving 3D One, leaves behind a very nice gloss when using it to finish out. You will have some protectants that can prevent the abrasives from cutting as efficiently if they're healthy, so I do like to knock the fresh protectants down a bit before pulling out abrasives, and a lot of the time I'll pull out a non-abrasive paint cleanser on a mild foam pad with the buffer to do this on the test panels as an alternative to a panel wipe, Klean Strip Prep-All can give you a headache if you're not wearing a respirator.

[@paultrottier4893]

These are over the counter products not intended for professional use. Professional use 3M and PPG products to strip car wax

[@Engineered2Detail]

You going to MTE? I would like to meet u

[@charlesharper9546]

I thought the results with Rustoleum looked pretty good.

[@skzion2]

Hi. You really disliked the Rust-Oleum product, but it's been getting very good reviews in some quarters. Could you explain more fully why you summarily dumped it?

[@WaxMode]

Rustoleum is a much heavier style of wax & grease remover. Because it's not solvent-based, it doesn't want to flash off the paint itself, so you have to work it in and buff it off much more significantly with the microfiber towel. If you don't spend the time to really buff it cleanly, then you're not going to get a smooth wipeoff. It leaves a residue behind on the paint, the gloss meter picks this up and it will reduce the measurements and because of this, I do not like to use this as a prep spray after I've polished the paint. This is where Prep-All shines, as it does a good job to penetrate waxes and some sealants, while also flashing effectively off the paint to leave no footprint behind. This makes it the ideal option before polishing to help knock down fresh products, while being able to use it after polishing as well to remove polishing residue cleanly from the paint. The wipe on/off is much better, glides effortlessly into the paint with the towel. If you're using a polish that wipes off cleanly, using Prep-All afterwards isn't going to reduce gloss measurements.

[@skzion2]

@@WaxMode Thank you for that wonderfully detailed and clear reply. I'm glad I subscribed.

[@johnjackson-pu3xo]

Great video

[@collinhopper7542]

What type of spray bottle are you storing Prep-ALL in? -TMG

[@WaxMode]

I purchased a lot of bottles from US Plastic, for the sprayers I tried out the Autogeek chemical resistant double action sprayers which lasted for months, but eventually failed out on me with Prep-All (www.autogeek.net/hi-tech-chemical-resistant-sprayer.html). I've got the Tolco grey chemical resistant sprayers that I'm working with next that generally leak out of the bottles that I've got but we'll see how long they last. Generally I haven't been spraying out the remaining amount in the sprayer before I head inside which can improve the lifespan of the sprayer. Usually because I'm out there working with them on a daily basis. Looking forward to trying out Obsessed Garage's Pressol range.

[@10r80Gerardo]

I tried to order prep all but for some reason they don’t ship it to California. :(

[@WaxMode]

Unfortunately California has stricter VOC regulations, a lot of paint and prep solvents are restricted and cannot be shipped there.

[@autoinfinitydetailing8382]

Great video as always.... !!! I have two questions. This test was on a wax so what about sealents, the big boys, that are really resistant. Like powrlock, fast finish, turtle wax seal and shine etc. If one wants to remove those, what would you recommend? Second question. I live in Pakistan and over here four paint prep or panel wipes are available. Carpro eraser, sonax paint prep, Rust-Oleum wax remover and IPA ( from which you can make your own panel wipes ). Now Carpro eraser is for $80 for 4 liters, Sonax paint prep is only available in 400ml version which will cost you $17.50, Rust-Oleum is sometimes available but when it is available for $12.50 for one can as it is available in spray form, last is IPA which is very difficult to buy here in highly concentration like 95% or higher and you can only get it from supplier that supply stuff to medicine factories ( I get mine from there as my friend owns a medicine factory 😋 ). Since you an dilute it you can get the most out of it from all these. I add 145 ml of IPA to a 1000ml bottle then add water and then about 20ml of super degreaser... So my question is which of these would you recommend and the mix of IPA I am making is it a good mix or would you suggest a different recipe fo me the IPA to make it more effective

[@WaxMode]

Thanks Abdullah! I'm currently working with a variety of different degreasers and paint preps for Turtle Wax's new Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating. Poorboy's Strip Down and Optimum Power Clean work really well in undiluted strengths at knocking this down in one step, maybe not 100% removal but significant. As for paint prep, regular isopropyl alcohol at 15% dilution strength works well for post-polishing cleanup and is the most cost effective, but like I mention in this video it's not effective as a fresh wax/sealant knockdown product, same with CarPro Eraser. But I love Eraser as a post-polishing panel wipe, smells fantastic and works well. But something like Klean-Strip Prep-All guarantees a cleaner wipedown after polishing, but I need to use a half-mask respirator when working with it unlike Eraser or IPA, so that extra cleaning performance comes with that trade-off. Rustoleum's terrible wipedown makes it so difficult to recommend as a post-polishing prep, it can be effective as a pre-polishing prep to knock down waxes/sealants before using abrasives but I'd skip it. I haven't worked with Sonax's paint prep. I'd be wary of mixing Super Degreaser in your panel wipe, my worry is that the surfactants in the degreaser aren't designed to flash off the surface but it's possible the alcohol can help overpower them, I haven't tried this mix out yet, but if it's working well for you then I'd say stick with it! Here's the kicker, many products don't require a surgically clean surface after polishing to effectively attach themselves to the surface. So you could skip a post-polish panel wipedown completely and still get great performance out of your wax or sealant that you're working with. In theory, my attempt for this type of testing is to find that panel wipe that is the most cost effective for pre AND post-polishing performance as a dual purpose product, and so far Prep-All is my choice for that.

[@autoinfinitydetailing8382]

Thanks for the reply. I know I am bothering you but how would I know which wax, sealent and coating do not require IPA wipe down after polishing, without testing it or the only way is to test it? This can be a good idea for a video too 😁

[@WaxMode]

Of the many products that I've worked with without any panel wipe after polishing prior to applying them to the paint, I haven't seen any extraordinary increase in the rate at which they degrade from the surface. Meguiar's states you can skip an IPA or panel wipe after using their polishes if you're working with their waxes/sealants. Even the heavy coatings like CQUK don't seem to have a problem being applied over top of polishing oils or even waxes and glazes, I assume it's the solvents mixed in with the product that can help tackle through anything still left on the paint while you're applying them. I haven't run long term testing but I usually don't see any issues in the short term, although Jon from Forensic Detailing did have a great video that showed the new Turtle Wax Ceramic Spray Coating had varying results depending on the type of panel wipe used after polishing, it's something I want to dive into further.

[@burresscounty]

Very interesting

[@MrPGD77]

I'm sure you know autogeek usually has sales and at 25% off the poorboys gallon is at least a little bit cheaper, tonight cyber25 still works.

[@c6z061]

MrPGD77 I don’t think AG supplies strip down in gallon size.

[@WaxMode]

You can snag the gallon size from Autogeek, I ended up pulling the trigger on it with the 25% off sale for additional tests.

[@ChiYoungKC]

Is there any way that you can get your hands on Koch chemie Green star? I have been using it for a while now and it takes the hydrophobicity of the paint like nothing, it has a ph of 12 (alkaline) and cleans like hell, I would like to know dilutions and effectivness if you can test it someday

[@WaxMode]

Thanks for the feedback! Possibly in the future, I stocked up on a few different degreaser products recently, once I power through these I'll reach out for more to test out.

[@alonzobarnes302]

Super clean will strip waxes/sealants as well

[@WaxMode]

Super Clean definitely has some kick that can knockdown some fresh products in my tests, unfortunately they don't recommend it at all for use on painted surfaces. This is where cleaners like Strip Down and Optimum Power Clean come into play, as they're recommended for safe use on painted surfaces as the intended use of the product.

[@alonzobarnes302]

WaxMode I will definitely say that if you do decide to use it on paint then you better make sure you fully rinse it off. If it dries and sits you will have to polish off the residue. Ask me how I know that lol.

[@mikelon1010]

What worries me is the damage these products will do on plastic trim, taillights and headlights. Some of us are not gonna be that mindful.

[@WaxMode]

I would definitely avoid trim pieces for standard wax & grease removers, especially if they're solvent based and the trim is in good condition. I've used Prep-All over plastic headlights and taillights without issues. There are some clear plastics like the headlights on the Honda test car that don't react well with Poorboy's Strip Down, haven't had problems on trim. But the UV coating was removed from those headlights.

[@MarkSegree]

Why would you want to remove a fresh wax? Answer: Customer calls and ask for a ceramic coating on their brand new car, problem is the dealer waxed the car before delivery.

[@gergemall]

Soy based wires in my wife’s car has cost 15 k , squirrels attacked the harness.

[@fiouable]

$154 for the Zymöl. Are you crazy?

[@WaxMode]

I'm definitely crazy! They've raised the price since I purchased, I picked it up for $101 a few years ago which is still way more than I would want to normally spend. It's funny I'm hesistant about $50 for a gallon of Strip Down while I'm out buying Ital, Glasur and Titanium. I recommend Carbon or Creame at around $54 for those looking to try Zymol out.

[@fiouable]

WaxMode I’ll live with Ethos ceramic wax Pro. Which is still expensive.

[@onrdetailingnews802]

Totally awesome works great only a dollar checkout my video tfw buddy

[@WaxMode]

onr detailing news - I’ve worked a lot with LA’s Totally Awesome, definitely cuts through a lot of products, still like to follow up with a prep spray any time I’m working with degreasers and APC’s. On some of your test panels, you should sand and buff out half the panel, and then leave the other half as is and apply the wax/sealant to the whole panel. You’ll see a massive improvement in the water behavior on the sanded and polished section compared to the other half. Give it a shot with one of the spray coatings! 👍

[@onrdetailingnews802]

@@WaxMode totally awesome removes tar like butter very strong i hit it with awesome 2 times everything is gone off the panel the yellow awesome is the strongest try that tfr buddy

[@onrdetailingnews802]

@@WaxMode bout to get a new test panel soon tfw buddy

[@PapaSmurf918Detail]

First😎

[@WaxMode]

That was quick!

[@PapaSmurf918Detail]

@@WaxMode 🤣😎 I just happened to have my phone in hand.!

[@illestFlavor]

Yeet