How Efficient is Spray Foam insulation in Extreme Cold? - A Real Test!

[@TripleTAcres]

Here is the video of the Spray Foam installation! Check it out! Insulating My Barn with Open Cell Spray Foam- The Full Process kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZKohqyenbSshbM

[@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions]

You didn't put pex in the slab when you built it?

[@TripleTAcres]

Nope

[@philhensley5986]

I spray foam a 40x500 ' turkey breeding barn and the customer told me a few days ago this barn uses half the propane per year as the other barns do that are insulated with fiberglass and he is wanting to invest the money to do 4 more buildings that size. He is saving huge money and getting a great ROI.

[@TripleTAcres]

💪💪

[@lstroud454]

Thanks for letting us know this !! i have friends with turkey barns ! i'm going to share it with them !! 🐤🦃

[@doncollins786]

I built a 30x40x12 engineered metal shop in my backyard in 2004. I spray foamed 6 inches on all walls and roof. Using a 80,000 unit heater, on natural gas, I can keep it 70 degrees during the day, turn it down to 60 at night, for around $50 a month. This is in the Texas Panhandle. It is 3 degrees right now, I am about ogo out and work on a motorcycle in the shop, will turn stat up to 70 and stat will be satisfied in ten minutes. Best investment I ever made.

[@Fossillarson]

In arkansas i do same 60 at night so keeps temp for quick warm up i get up at 3am for work so warm truck is nice

[@richardrucker7455]

I would suggest to never pour concrete without insulation under it. And, never pour concrete without adding PEX pipe for future hydronic floor heat if wanted. My shop is 39x48x12, flat ceiling with 24" blown fiberglass, walls with R19 batt fiberglass, concrete insulated with 2" board, hydronic heat using propane tankless heater, thermostat on 70F. 500 gallon of propane per year. North Missouri. Here, your building would condense moisture and sweat inside. We don't spray foam roofs or ceilings for that reason. Excellent video. Thank you very much for posting it.

[@rfel87]

🤔

[@rudistout1086]

I live in central Illinois had my place a metal building spray formed 20 years ago. Does not sweat at all. The foam has to be on the metal not on building wrap. If it is sprayed on the metal it does not sweat. Have 3 buildings total done that way no.problems sy sll.

[@csaa1980]

My brother builds these in ND. Best way to go with the spray foam is heated concrete. His shop is 58x120 with 16ft sidewalls and it costs around $1000 a winter to kept at 60 in North Dakota.

[@J-1410]

It is also worth noting that our Electric heat rate is 3.5 cents per kwh

[@csaa1980]

I should add he uses a propane boiler and propane has been higher than average the last few winters. So depending on the year it would be cheaper… but my home costs more per winter to heat.

[@robertmunafo5039]

​@@J-1410 3.5c is super cheap rate per kwh! I'm in TX and I get about 10c per kwh and that is a very good rate for around here. That includes the delivery charge as well.

[@db9818]

A friend of mine did that here in N.CA obviously very different environment and not nearly as cold. But they made a home out of a metal building and heat their concrete floors with water from a solar powered water heater and it heats the entire home. Wood stove is used on colder days/nights, and during the summer the concrete keeps the home cool.

[@davebourdon3258]

I have my metal building and office shop space all spay foamed. The efficientcy is Awesome! Nice video and links..

[@TripleTAcres]

Heck yeah! Thanks for watching! 💪

[@LGTrees]

we pulled all the fiber glass batting out of our house- spray foamed- big improvement in heat loss and best of all- NO MORE MICE NESTS!!

[@PineyGroveHomestead]

Awesome video, brother. You knocked this one out of the park! Tractor Hard! 🚜💪!!

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey, thanks brother! It’s something coming from you pal

[@Bret-n7q]

I’ve been building higher end custom homes in N Ohio for about 15 years. There is nothing better than using closed cell foam in the attic and walls combined with dense packing fiberglass if the cost needs to be brought down. For example we don’t use trusses, we always stick frame our roofs, with the exception of flat roofs or very shallow shed roofs where we need trusses for the strength. Anyway will spray 6”’over the rafters with about 2-3” on the rafters, then use cap nails to put a mesh on the 2x11 and dense packing fiberglass the balance. Then in the walls we will use Huber Zip 2” foam clad sheathing and then spray 2” closed cell foam and fill the balance with dense pac fiberglass. We normally end up with an ACH50 of .7-.9 and we use a Carrier Furnace and 26 seer AC or a hybrid Geothermal that basically is the 98% gas furnace combined with the geothermal. The system will determine the least expensive heating method based on temperatures and the price of gas vs electric. These homes, with finished basements are 6000-7000 sq ft plus about 1200 to 1500 sq ft of garage. The garages maintain 52F when temperatures are 5-20f and if we are below zero for extended the garages will stay at about 42-45f with no added heat. What we have found is the garages can be heated with a 1500 watt electrical heater and a ceiling fan keeping the temperature around 60-63. If we add in a multi zone mini split we only need about 30,000 btu to make the garage space very comfortable. Two years ago we built a home and used 6” open cell foam in the walls and 10” in the attic. We installed duct work in the attic for the second floor and on one side of the attic a small supply air 2x12 and a small return on the other side a 4x4 vent. The reason we did this was to make absolutely sure no humidity built up in the attic and caused mold issues. The open cell worked very very well, just not as well as the closed cell combined with fiberglass.

[@bassntruck]

Your return for 6" of CC is very minimal. Over 4" your % per inch drops as the cost skyrockets. If you want to double your insulation expense to save an extra 2% and you have the money to burn, have fun, but it is not necessary.

[@chptech]

I have geothermal wth would you put a hybrid geothermal in. I have never used my electric back up. Installed it myself in 2008, 4.5 ton unit for a 2800 sqft house. I only need about 2 ton maybe 3 on the coldest days. 2 inch of xps foam inside of 2x4 studs w/r13 batts.

[@attwasmi]

The biggest mass in the Barn is the Floor. I would have liked to know its temp, and construction. If it was 53 then it would hold that for a long time. Great video and build!! Thanks.

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey thanks for watching and the kind words! I agree with you 100%. I really wish I would have added that in.

[@gibblespascack1418]

That is what I was thinking that the slab is ~40 degrees. It is probably helping the building stay above freezing. It would take days to heat that floor above ground temp.

[@Jonny-wn1fl]

​@TripleTAcres did you put 2" foam under the concrete?

[@TripleTAcres]

@Jonny-wn1fl no. I wish I had.

[@Jonny-wn1fl]

@TripleTAcres it's massive for heat loss, I have my own heating company and when doing a load calculation on a slab house or pole building its around 40% increase in BTU requirements without foam.

[@thtadthtshldntbe]

The primary source of temperature loss is the slab. Regardless of it not being insulated. Thats a huge thermal mass that is equalizing with the air. Once the slab hits 70 even uninsulated it will hold temp a lot longer and drop more slowly.

[@TripleTAcres]

I agree 100%!

[@terrylutke]

I've had buildings with both open cell and closed cell PU foam. Closed cell is hard surfaced and quite resistant to 'bumps and bruising'. Closed cell also is easy to paint over with low paint/color absorption. Closed cell cost more than open cell by the board foot, but closed cell has a higher per inch R and air infiltration rating. R-value per $$ is probably fairly close between open cell and closed cell. Closed cell foam is highly sound reflective, open cell is somewhat sound absorptive. Neither material seems especially flammable when exposed to heat or sparks. OTH, if any foamed structure were fully involved in a fire I'd want to be up-wind for sure.

[@stevengabalis4986]

Just built a garage and spray foamed with closed cell. The spray foam supplier said that it is flammable and should be drywalled over, or painted with a fire retardant coating. The coating material runs 80 cents per sq ft, drywall is 40 cents (material only).

[@terrylutke]

@@stevengabalis4986 'Flammable' simply means a product will burn under certain conditions. Take a small piece of closed cell foam and try to light it with a match; you will find it's not especially easy to catch a-fire or keep lit, I think a dry pine board might lite up easier than the foam. Of course PU foam will burn/smolder while exposed to a hot flame, and the smoke generated is probably nasty. Code could req that you protect the foam if the garage is attached to the home.

[@stevengabalis4986]

@@terrylutke My garage is not attached. I'd planned on drywalling the lower 8 ft. of the (11 foot) walls anyway, but was going to leave the top 3' exposed. The spray foam supplier was likely doing some CYA by telling me about the flammability/combustibility. There will be welders and torches in use occasionally and sawdust generated, so I don't want the space to be easy to light. Now planning to rock the walls and gable ends, but leave the underside of the roof exposed (open trusses, no ceiling). I could spray the underside of the roof with that DC315 ignition barrier if needed, have one more city inspection to pass, so we'll see.

[@terrylutke]

@@stevengabalis4986 I was probably too lackadaisical regarding flammability of spray foam insulation (closed cell), in my shop. I had the walls foamed and exposed from floor to the underside of the roof metal. I did cover it with a couple coats of cheap white latex paint for reflectivity. I welded, torched & ran angle grinders, burned a DIY barrel wood stove, sparks flying everywhere. That went on for 15+ years & I never had an issue or a scare. I'm not that recommending you do that, but it's a true story:)

[@barry99705]

Kept waiting for the extreme temperatures. 🤣 Lot of our bigger buildings are spray foamed, works great, even down to -40. Need the slab insulated though.

[@TripleTAcres]

This video is just the beginning! In my next follow-up, I’ll be keeping the room at 70 degrees for several days to ensure everything inside reaches the same temperature. This will give us an even more accurate reading on how well the insulation is performing. Once that’s done, I’ll shut off the heat and test how long the barn can hold the warmth. Stay tuned, and don’t forget to subscribe-the next video is coming soon, just in time for another arctic blast!

[@drzavahercegbosnaponosna5974]

what is the U vale of thze windows? Is the floor insulated? is the door insulated and does it seal well? how many thermal bridges are there?

[@cmdr_stretchedguy]

Good stuff, thank you for testing this. A side note, we got more snow here in northwest Florida (just shy of 8" of snow) than you have there, although its mostly melted today, a few days later.

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks! Yeah that’s crazy! I heard it’s one for the record books.

[@rooster5755]

what this confirms to me is why infloor heating is boss,especially in a cement slab...i have a shop just a little bigger than yours with infloor heat,cellulose insulation in the ceiling and fiberglass in my walls,shop is also "stick built".it was a high of about 5f last week.my shop can go a whole day without my boiler ever turning on even in that temp with the wind blowing..if i open a door to bring in a vehicle, than thats a different story of course..its just crazy to me i guess,i know the stuff is still a little cold in your shop on this test but my shop would not loose a single degree in 12hrs and yours dropped 10f in 1 hr!insane

[@michiganengineer8621]

I agree 100% on the infloor heating. Get the (insulated below) slab up to a comfortable temperature and then your need to "reheat" will go down enormously. Except as you said when you have to open a big door for vehicle access.

[@TripleTAcres]

It dropped 10 degrees because everything in the room was 50-60 degrees including the slab. Trust me, when I have everything warmed up, a fart will keep it warm.

[@rooster5755]

@@TripleTAcres i guess.that begs the question at what you generally have it set at for temp in there?i would imagine thats how you use the space.i use my shop for working on cars and metal fabrication, and have a hoist.im in it 5 days out of the week and i almost never adjust my temp.set at 60 generally and 62 if need to get the chill out maybe so everything in it is at that temp until i bring in cold vehicles.

[@joemc111]

Great test. 50 here in Dunedin,Florida this morning 01/20/2025.

[@6754563]

I'm sure you lose a lot of temperature through all those windows at least I would think you would

[@jeffkinni]

Works great. I’ve got open cell on my framed wall and joist space in the log home and only heat source right now is the in floor heat in basement. With a max limit of 68. It’s about 58 upstairs and we have had neg numbers for several days.

[@CdoGtheGreat]

Love this kind of stuff. It would be really cool if you mounted a stop watch or analog clock next to the analog thermometer and timelapse it. Then do the same for how long it takes to go back down to baseline

[@Mundidark]

i have the exact same woodstove and its a true beast you sure dont see many fishers around anymore especially not in that condition hope it does you well!

[@TripleTAcres]

Heck yeah! It works incredible.

[@johnnymoran180]

Should have made a lean to for the camper?

[@stuartkorte1642]

In North Florida, 30x50x12 metal shop. 2” ceiling and 1” walls of closed cell. It as been in the 20-30’s and in the morning you can easily feel the inside is warmer than outside. This is without any heat. I’m sold.

[@barryinn1778]

I sprayed my 2000 sf shop with foam also, it is the best. I could wear a long sleeve shirt for hours in the shop without heat and was comfortable.

[@TripleTAcres]

Heck yeah!!

[@keithdoot7366]

Just a suggestion. Get some latex semi gloss paint and paint the spray foam. You'll get rid of the yellow cast, increase your light reflectivity, and you will probably like the way it looks. Even if there are plans to partially or fully enclose the walls and ceiling, the increase in brightness will be worth the effort. I just put a 25,000 btu electric in my 20x40 spray foamed shop and it does a great job keeping it above 70 if I need it. Thanks for the idea of using a temp gun!

[@yt650]

I can’t be sure but my observation leads me to believe that the air source for your wood burner is ambient already heated air in the building which will then be replaced by outside cold air coming in every possible crack lots of times around and overhead garage door. Just like if you turn on a bathroom fan or dryer, that air going outside must be replaced. So if there was an outside source of air for that wood burner, you would use less wood, there would be less drafts and the place would be warmer and obviously you wouldn’t be wasting already warmed air up the chimney. I do believe that a lot of the newer wood burners and pellet stoves have a hook up for outside combustion air.

[@rodneyharouff5739]

yes.

[@Ozarkprepper643]

The log burners I use in the house and shop have a air Inlet in back that draws the air in from the outside.

[@yt650]

@ Perfect, you are one of the very few people who actually understand. It’s very hard to pull a vacuum on a building.

[@Ozarkprepper643]

The house is pretty airtight. The old one we had we had to leave a window slightly open. Or it wouldn't hardly burn.lol It's now out in the somewhat enclosed patio.

[@dans4900]

I have a 2500 sqft house, split level. After a flood, I had to tear out everything to the rafters. Went from fiberglass to spray foam, closed cell. House is 2x4 construction in Minnesota. Apples to apples I save about 35% on heat bills. The house is also warmer (no drafts) and a lot quieter. The only difference is the insulation in the walls. When it was sprayed the foam is 2 1/2" thick on average. Over the last five years keeping the house at 70°f. It cost $500 for the heating season on natural gas. Currently it's -10°f outside. Hope this helps

[@repalmore]

The only time I've installed 5 inches is a ice manufacturing plant warehouse. I recommend 3" in the roof and 2" in the walls of 2lb. foam. 5 1/2 inches is super insulated for a shop.

[@kevinyoungM14EBR]

I converted a 24 year old 1,000 square foot metal storage building with an exposed concrete floor into a living space two years ago, I had closed cell foam sprayed on the ceiling and walls and I wish that I had done something to heat or insulate the floors because they are always cool or cold. The foam is fantastic, and some sort of thermal break on the floor would be the much needed cherry on top. Note: I run a dehumidifier most of the time when I am heating the place, and only a few time when cooling the place. with my 2 ton heat pump central HVAC system.

[@mobiltec]

I would like to see the exact same test with the same size building only using standard 6 inch thick R30 insulation covered with 5/8 inch fire rated drywall. Which by the way you should do also to keep the fire hazard down.

[@no-damn-alias]

Have you ever thought on putting a mini split in the barn? Cheap, no effort heat in the winter to keep it at 60 and nice cooling in the summer. Ad some cheap solar panels on the roof and you have free cooling in the summer.

[@MtnTechie]

Looks good man. When I did a cost estimator to do what you did to my 44x48 with 14' walls I about fell over. How'd you afford it? My building is setup a lot like yours. I was shocked when you brought it up to temp with that little torpedo heater. I wire and plumbed propane in a corner and was thinking I would put in a 100k BTU Modine forced air, that would be WAY overkill if you can heat your building with that little heater. I have a large 3.3 cu ft firebox wood stove as well.

[@TripleTAcres]

I got a good deal. It was 6k to do it. Yeah, that heater is was undersized for me, but it definitely goes to show how awesome this stuff is.

[@donnyjackson1908]

We heat a 7200SF building with 2- 24k BTU LG RED mini splits. They will maintain 62F in the building at 5F Outdoor temperature. They output 24k BTU each head at 5F. Basically it takes only 6.6 BTU/SF to maintain 62F indoor when it’s 5F outdoor.

[@TripleTAcres]

Heck yeah! I’ve got to get one. I’m hoping this spring to install one.

[@donnyjackson1908]

@ they rock! Make sure you get a cold climate version! LG RED, Mitsubishi Hyper Heat, or Bosch MAX all work well.

[@TripleTAcres]

@donnyjackson1908 thanks 🙏!

[@goaheadmakeourdayscooterpe9644]

For added insulation in mine I covered inside window frames with heavy gauge roll plastic stapled to create a dead air space real cheap and it still lets all the light in but keeps prying eyes from seeing whats inside. It seems to make a difference with the heating and ac having seven large windows covered.

[@JamesHollinger-lt8qx]

5.5 inchs. Insulation. What was the total cost material and labor

[@TripleTAcres]

$6k

[@jstaffordii]

Thermal mass. You have to get that huge slab and all internals to a stable temperature and retest.

[@nvragn]

Talking about that electric thermostat for the heater. I'm a mechanic for a large cement company and we plug the trucks in in the winter of course but we have it set up that they only come on once it reaches a certain temperature that is because they don't need to be on all the time and not only that they don't come on until a few hours before they come on. Again there they're is no point to have them on the entire night. They work well because it's not long to get them up to full temp

[@TripleTAcres]

Heck yeah!

[@roadking99jokerst60]

The stairs to the mezzanine won't pass code in Iowa. Needs handrail and fence . Thanks for showing the insulating properties.

[@gordmcdonald2807]

Nice video. Like that barn. What's drawing your heat away, my money is that big concrete slab your standing on. You'd have the dream barn if it was heated but realistically, likely over kill.

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks! I agree 100%

[@Ozarkprepper643]

Few things are worse than the temperature inside a metal box.lol That is about the same size as my workshop. Itis 2 x 6 on 16 centers. The metal siding is attached to half inch OSB. So the wall is filled with 5.5 in of closed spray foam. And then another half inch of OSB on the inside. Roof is similar except for it is 2x8 on 16in centers. It is around R50. And I agree it works very well. I also Heat it with wood. Hanger is similarly built. But uses 2 LPG heaters instead. Plus it's concrete foundation has tubing in it that recirculates through a LPG heater. Once that Foundation is warm it will help maintain that heat. Only top off the 300 gal LPG tank every 3 years. The LPG around here has been pretty steady at about a $1.10 a Gal. Then there's the added structural Integrity that comes with the closed foam. 🤠🐂

[@edensfamilyadventures2714]

Just found your channel and sub'd 👍 We have a small 68 ac farm in AR and relate to your channel. 👌

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey! That’s great! Glad to have you!!

[@oldmgbs2]

That's the very same wood heater I have in my home. Had it for about forty years. It's a good one.

[@TripleTAcres]

Heck yeah! I absolutely love it!

[@IndyFarmLife]

Right on! I bet you are loving that space now! I need to do that to my barn (old Quonset hut) but I need to fix a few leaks first. You may have addressed this in your original video, but any reason why you chose open cell vs closed cell? When I built our house, we used open cell, and it definitely isn't as 'tough' as closed cell (i.e. you can pull it apart with your hands) but I didn't care, because of the cost and the fact that it's all behind sheet rock. I would be concerned I would damage it in a barn. Have you experienced that? I like that little add on thermostat!

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey Adam! Thanks for the comment! We’re absolutely loving the space now-it’s been a game-changer this winter. Fixing those leaks first is definitely the right move; spray foam will seal things up tight, but only after the structure itself is sound. Great question about open cell vs. closed cell. I chose open cell mainly because it’s more cost-effective, which really adds up in a large space like this barn. It also expands more, which is great for sealing every nook and cranny in a post-frame structure. Another big factor is that open cell is breathable, so it helps manage moisture and reduces the risk of trapping condensation inside the walls or roof-something that can be an issue with metal buildings. I like the idea that it shows if there is a leak too. I’d hate to not know I have a roof leak until it’s too late. As for the softness, I totally get your concern. Open cell is definitely less rigid than closed cell, but I plan to cover it with plywood or metal to protect it and give the walls a finished look. Once it’s covered, durability shouldn’t be a problem at all. And yeah, that thermostat is a great little addition-super simple but really effective for keeping the temperature where I want it. Thanks for watching and for the thoughtful comment-I really appreciate the support!

[@IndyFarmLife]

@@TripleTAcres Finally coming back to this (as you know, life is busy!) and I'm happy to see this video has blown up for you! It's exciting when one hits! That's a good point about condensation/breathability of the building. That's one concern I did have as I think about spraying my Quonset hut. Sealing things up with plywood is the right move in the end. I actually have a video coming out tomorrow that I now realize is spot on to one you did a while back. 'Heating an uninsulated barn' ha. I had pretty decent results. A little insulation and it will be t-shirt weather out there. Keep pumping them out!

[@Jeppedy]

I think you are right about why the temp held so well around 60. If you do this again in the future, I'd think you'd get much better, more meaningful, results by holding at temp until the whole room came to temp.

[@TripleTAcres]

I will do a retest soon after heating it will my wood burning stove. I’ll heat it for two days and keep it warm. I’ll let it burn out and set the torpedo heater to take its place maintaining 70 and then I’ll shut it off and see the results.

[@pheelphine]

I'd love to see an outside thermal image!!!😮 It would show where, if any, thermal loss.

[@TripleTAcres]

That’s a great idea! If I get my hands on one I’ll definitely share.

[@srt8speed]

Are you going to cover the insulation at all? Looks great!!

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks! Yep it’s in the plans.

[@basspro009]

Did you have open or closed cell insulation installed? Did you think about a ceiling over spray foam between trusses? How thick of foam did you install?

[@Just4AdventureFun]

Great video, thanks so mcc for the information. Keep up the good work!

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks! I appreciate it.

[@rwm5518]

Good stuff and great information - many thanks!

[@LTVoyager]

I have an insulated 32x48 workshop and put hydronic tubes in the slab. That is the cat’s meow for a workshop. I can keep the temp at 65 and be plenty comfortable to work in at-shirt and the heating cost is low as this is a very efficient way to heat. And no need for a ceiling fan as the stratification is near zero for radiant heat.

[@travishodges5179]

Whatever the floor is the room is. I’ve seen bubble wrap under a slab and it still performs outstanding

[@TripleTAcres]

@travishodges5179 I really wish I did that before I poured concrete.

[@LTVoyager]

@@TripleTAcres I built my house in 2000 and didn’t put tubing in the basement slab. I’ve regretted it ever since. I didn’t make the same mistake when I built my shop in 2016.

[@travishodges5179]

@ I will never pour concrete without it ever again. Water can absorb 3,500 times the amount of heat that air can

[@LTVoyager]

@ True, but concrete is only about 1/3 as good as water so the floor slab won’t hold nearly as much heat as water would, but it still has large thermal mass and the water is an effective way to get the heat into the thermal mass. The biggest downside to a heated slab is in the spring and fall when outdoor temps change rapidly. Often the building will overshoot on a day when it warms up 30 degrees in a few hours and then undershoot when it cools rapidly over a few hours. But overall, for a workshop or garage, it is hard to beat. Having worked outside on vehicles most of my life laying in snow, it sure is nice to be under a car on an 80º slab while working.

[@jeffhallford5284]

Did you seal the ridge vent with foam when they sprayed? I have a 24' x 36' pole barn that I want to spray foam and don't want to add a ceiling with eave vents.

[@Rome3aaro]

That's pretty good.. that's a big azz shop

[@lstroud454]

GREAT VIDEO. THANKS FOR SHARING !!: ❤ 👍👏

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks!!!🙏

[@Anonymous-ff5wr]

Will it sweat I was told spray foam will condensate and rust sidling I’m in construction and now a lot of people in trades but can’t get a definite answer nice vid😊

[@TripleTAcres]

Spray foam insulation, when properly installed, creates an airtight seal that eliminates air movement and minimizes the chance of condensation. The key is to apply the foam correctly to prevent gaps where warm, moist air could infiltrate and condense on the cooler metal surface. If condensation issues arise, it’s typically due to one of the following: 1. Incomplete foam coverage or thin application in some areas. 2. Metal siding being exposed without a proper vapor barrier in extreme climates. 3. Poor ventilation causing trapped moisture inside the building. As long as the foam completely seals the surface and you’re maintaining proper indoor ventilation, you shouldn’t experience rust or condensation problems. Always choose a reputable contractor or carefully follow best practices if applying it yourself.

[@Anonymous-ff5wr]

@ thanks much

[@bsc196]

you just gave great informations, many thanks for that. if its possible go with both temperatures, like fahrenheit and celcius because i am from canada.

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey thanks! I will definitely consider that next time. Thanks for watching!

[@Z-Ack]

Do like diesel creek did to his pole barn and put in floor heating.. his shop is huge though.. he’s got a few heating units though..

[@darindarin67]

You should test the temperature of the poles themselves. That is where you are losing your heat. Is the concrete pad insulated? If not, that is a major source of heat loss.

[@Sword5000]

The problem with the torpedo heater is not so much carbon monoxide, BUT it burns the oxygen out of the air and after 2 hours I can not light a Bic lighter or my propane torch will not ignite. At the end of the day I'm much more tired than usual do to lack of oxygen. The other problem is the floor takes about 8 hours to get warm.

[@rteune2416]

I had to fix a pipe blockage once, so I had to dig some out, not a nice job, but besides that when I got to the other end water was just rushing out of the just opened hole. In this case it didn't matter as the other side was concrete, but it makes you wonder when sprayed against wood.

[@riker302011]

@TripleTAcres I may have missed the info, but I would like to know if the building is insulated with closed cell or open cell. I am going to be insulating a similar building in the spring and have closed cell on my wish list. Nice building and great video!

[@TripleTAcres]

It’s open cell. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@oldie4210]

Wow, extreme cold is different for different people i suppose. Did you insulate your floor and footings?

[@TricksterJ97]

Yes indeed- that’s not extreme cold - that’s a nice winter day.

[@johnw7587]

Just found your channel and subscribed. Thanks for the videos

[@TripleTAcres]

Let’s go! Glad to have you!

[@jamesrose1191]

Would have liked to see the doors and window temp as part of your test

[@paulwackerla6330]

Great video, you really showed us how efficient spray foam is. As others have asked, is the slab insulated? If you wanted to heat the whole building all the time, you could have put radiant floor heating, but would have had to insulate the slab, both the bottom and sides. Radiant floor heating is great as the heat stays near the floor not at the ceiling. It would have been very interesting if you put multiple thermometers in the building, one on the floor, the one you had at head height, and then one at the highest point in the ceiling. I'm sure the ceiling one would have read near 90 as a the hot air would rise. Thanks for taking the time to do this test.

[@TripleTAcres]

Thank you for watching and for the detailed comment! The slab in this building isn’t insulated, which does impact overall heat retention and would have been an important factor if we’d planned for radiant floor heating. You’re absolutely right-radiant heating is incredibly efficient for maintaining heat at floor level, especially with proper slab insulation. The idea of placing multiple thermometers is a great suggestion! It would have been really interesting to see the temperature stratification, especially at the ceiling. I’ll keep that in mind for future experiments. I really appreciate the feedback and your interest in the test!

[@rupe53]

that fan plays a huge roll. You might be amazed at how little air movement it takes to keep the attic area temp close to floor temp. I had a 28 x 40 truck garage with 14 ft roof that I kept fairly stable using a 20 inch window fan set on low speed. The loft area went from 100 degrees to about 70 by the next morning with (eye level) t-stat set at 65. That fan was basically laying on a flat bracket between the rafters and pointed down.

[@als8518]

so insulating below the may or may not help a building depending on how warm you want it. If you just generally want freeze protection, and occasionally warm it up, uninsulated is best, because unless you are in a permafrost zone, the soil temp will keep the slab soil temp. Around here that average mid 50s all year of free heat if you put in slab perimeter insulation.

[@rupe53]

@ You can't have it both ways. Insulation will always help maintain a temp. The bottom line is cost to heat versus cost to insulate.... over time. Even at 50 degrees I would imagine that given 5-10 years there would be a measurable difference for break even if you wanted to add heat.

[@TripleTAcres]

@rupe53, when I use firewood to heat the barn, I can load it in the morning full, and that will be sufficient to keep it warm until evening. Compared to prior to the insulation it’s drastically reduced wood consumption.

[@mikifloyd8919]

Great job on spray

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks!

[@DaveDugdaleColorado]

At 20°F outside, my house loses .9°F per hour when heat turned off after house has been at the same temperature for 12 hours. My house is not even close to passive house, so I think it’s your floor being a massive heat sink to lose 10°F in one hour.

[@TripleTAcres]

I agree 100%

[@rupe53]

it will take several days for that concrete slab to stabilize its temp, insulated or not.

[@MrGsteele]

Interesting video; I have a million questions: I noticed that your wood stove has no outside combustion air source, so it appears to draw air into the heated space through door and window leaks. I have the same problem with my fireplace. Or is the flue double- walled, and drawing combustion air down from the roof? The ceiling, which is where the heat rises, and therefore has the highest delta T, seems to be OSB, rather than spray foam. That's where the most heat per square foot would be lost by conduction; reason it wasn't insulated? It's surprising that the roof snow didn't melt. I love that ceiling fan - I hear they are fantastic at moving air. Are the windows Thermopane, or just regular windows? Have you had an energy audit to identify leak and cold spots? Is that a concrete slab floor? I noticed you have an overhead door - is it insulated? Fiberglass? Steel? Any sealing tricks around the periphery besides weatherstrip? Thoughts on electric heat pumps? They are about 30% more efficient on a $/therm basis than gas, but it's dependent on average outside temperature - in cold areas, geothermal heat pumps are much better than air:air, which is what I have - but it's mild here, so geothermal seemed overkill. With solar panels and a battery, however, the economics are compelling, because they essentially run on sunlight. Obviously, on an acquisition cost basis, a torpedo heater is a winner. Did you compare foam board with spray foam on a cost, installation, and effectiveness basis? I really enjoyed the video - made me want to put up a building just to insulate it! Thanks for the information and the very interesting test on heat retention. That plug-in thermostatic switch is pretty neat. Thumbs up!

[@dougwebb6193]

You would really benefit from using a jumper duct... How about two 8 inch galvanized ducks running from the ridge high at each Gable end... An inline duct fan on each duct forces that ridge heat to the floor level.

[@Skyhawks1979]

That is an excellent idea.

[@rodneyharouff5739]

i knew that insulation was good. didn't know they made thermostats to plug in outlets. that stuff also contains fire retardant i believe. my buddy sprayed the inside of his retail flower shop delivery vans with it years ago.

[@luciffer420]

The Concrete is a huge factor in this test because it will stay cold for a long time until its heated up.

[@TripleTAcres]

For sure. I’m currently heating it for several days. I’m going to do a re test once everything has met 70 degrees.

[@Skyhawks1979]

@@TripleTAcres It will take a long tome for the concrete to even out depending on the starting temp. I don't heat my North Dakota garage and even with -20 winter temps at times, although water on the floor near the door will freeze, it never freezes in the center of the garage.

[@HillbillyUp]

Great video, thank you.

[@TripleTAcres]

Thanks!!

[@davidrasmussen2975]

Will the flammable wall and ceiling be covered with fire resistant material?

[@jamesrose1191]

Close cell and open are fire resistant. If there is a fire it will burn, but if the fire is taken away it will go out.

[@iancormie9916]

If heating a concrete slab or wall, expect heat to penetrate at about inch per hour. If your floor is un insulated, you will slso have to heat the fill under the gloor as well. In places with low ground temperatures or ground water, you will be hard pressed to get the floor warm ever.

[@billsilvers6066]

Is it closed cell or open cell foam? What is the temp of the floor? What is under the concrete any foam boards?

[@TripleTAcres]

Open cell, the floor was probably 40. Nothing under the concrete.

[@josephmythen3844]

Good video and a great building you have, thank you.

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey! Thanks!!

[@bobbray9666]

What about the slab? Is that also insulated? 15% of heat loss is via an uninsulated slab. Here in zone 6a, R-10 is required under the slab using 2" of XPS.

[@TripleTAcres]

It’s not insulated. I wish I had.

[@timo2571]

Because you're running open cell foam I'm going to throw up a caution about moisture barriers. Because open cell foam, unlike the more expensive closed cell foam, doesn't form a moisture barrier, you'll need to pay attention to corrosion and rot at the cold line. If the dew point inside is higher than the outside temp you'll likely get condensation on the colder outside surfaces. In the case of wood - the poles, it's rot and in the case of steel it's corrosion. Now that isn't Tuesday's concern but it's certainly a 5 or 10 year concern. My advice would be go with a couple inches of closed cell to create a moisture barrier and put open cell over it making sure the closed cell creates a continuous barrier, meaning it includes covering.wrapping all wood structural elements so all wood is on one side of the moisture barrier or the other. If it crosses the barrier, rot will inevitably happen.

[@rteune2416]

I had to dig some out one day and yes the other side was soaked, it was against concrete.

[@johngallati8164]

VERY COOL VIDEO

[@TripleTAcres]

Hey thanks!!

[@samfrancisco8095]

No protection of the foam at least 4 ft high?

[@Keepithonest7]

Is it flammable?

[@hoopaholicstickum]

I had a shop with the same construction, also with poly urethane spray foam insulation. I would use an electric forced air furnace to heat it. I kept it at 55 degrees when not using it, and heated it to 60 when using it. It took only a few minutes to bring it up to 60. I also had the rafters roof are done, and the entire inside what sheetrocked. So it was a much much better finished construction than this video. I’m sure he plans to do the same…

[@raybrensike42]

What about that overhead door? How does one seal around that?

[@rickpenick2187]

what was the cost how many board ft? is the fan running counterclockwise? thx

[@martinclemmensen8071]

How does it stand against fire? I am from Denmark and we usually don’t use spray foam insulation.

[@thisbushnell2012]

My concern is the floor and the soil under it. What insulation methods there? Our breezeway is built on an 8" deep cement slab directly on the clay soil, abutting the cement block wall of the basement. The majority of heat loss is thru that.

[@OhLordMyRedeemer]

Sorry if you said and I missed it but did you use closed cell or open cell foam?

[@TripleTAcres]

Open.

[@crawfordfwatch8703]

How much did it cost to spray it?

[@claytonsimplot9554]

Was any insulation put underneath the slab?

[@josephclark7163]

Is the slab insulated?

[@TripleTAcres]

No it is not.

[@jimmywhetton1141]

What is the name of the thermostat plug(maybe that’s it)

[@MRTOMBO]

What about retaining moisture? I've heard that if there's water intrusion spay foam will soak that up like a sponge and hold onto it. (?)

[@MN_Home_Fry]

Wish 4 was cold 😉. Realize it's all relative to where you are.

[@ronwstauch9390]

Is that fisher wood burner

[@TripleTAcres]

Yep!

[@65johu]

How about the floor? Insulated? Any footings?

[@TripleTAcres]

no insulation under the concrete and no footings. This is just a slab poured on a gravel base.

[@65johu]

@TripleTAcres it'd be interesting how much cold is transferred through the concert slab especially around the edges.

[@oscarwindham6016]

Excellent!

[@arthurperrea3714]

Is this closet cell.or open

[@TripleTAcres]

Open

[@paulnelson5107]

Did you use close cell foam or open cell foam?

[@TripleTAcres]

Open

[@briandoucette9643]

What's the R-value PER INCH ?

[@ledebuhr1]

Is the slab insulated? Also when you use the wood burning stove, do you have to leave the door open a crack for an oxygen supply? I would think it's so tight that would affect the stove.

[@TripleTAcres]

Slab is not insulated. I haven’t had any issues with draft control with the wood burner. I keep everything shut too.

[@bikerguy5829]

Are you going to finish the walls? That would help to. And do the ceiling

[@TripleTAcres]

The walls yes the ceiling I may paint.

[@RodneyKoop]

The heat up near the ceiling doesn’t really cost you anything because that’s called air stratification it’s just another thermal layer of insulation when you blow it around with the fan that’s fine but then more heat just goes up to take its place. I doubt it saves you a dime.. I could be wrong but if I wanted to run the fan, I think I would let it blow down to help warm up the floor

[@iancormie9916]

Moving the hot sir from the ceiling mixes the average air temperature and lowers heat loss at the roof level. Little point in having 130 degree air at the roof and 55 deg air at floor level.

[@5150life]

How much money is spray foam psi?

[@clayton8465]

The more thermal mass you can add to the building on the inside. The longer it will hold the temp.