How I Anneal Brass Cartridge Cases for Reloading

[@406life]

Awesome video, finally someone who knows what he's doing and not trying to sell a 600$ machine!!

[@314299]

Thanks.

[@SamEEE12]

"If you're safe enough to be around a gun you should be safe enough to be around a propane torch." Thumbs up for this gem.

[@314299]

I occasionally shoot skeet with the provincial fire Marshall, perhaps that inspired me.

[@antoniofiammelli1792]

314299 Shooting Channel can I do this with all brass like Norma brass 30-378. 338-378 , Norma Nosler Barnes for 300 wsm ,,, Remington 243 great video

[@pr0faker]

And then procedes to pull the casing back and burning some hair of the knuckles the first time he enneals it :)

[@jude.25]

Your video is still circulating and still helpful. Simplifies an important process. Thanks for posting.

[@314299]

Glad to hear folks are still finding it useful, thanks for the feedback.

[@73F100]

Thank you for posting this. I will eventually be reloading ammunition for my .303 and this is an important step to know about.

[@mrniccomable]

most realistic annealing tutorial yet.

[@314299]

+Nic Prosser Thanks. I was trying to keep the process simple and yet get decent results.

[@benjamingoogins1267]

Love the simplicity of your approach. Thanks for sharing.

[@314299]

+trees dirt Sometimes simple works.

[@ronoberkrom6442]

314299 Shooting Channel

[@jimmcgovern7515]

I think quenching the brass in water will cause it to get hard. Quenching is how they hardened metal for knife blades. I think to properly anneal metals you need to let it cool down to room temperature naturally.

[@314299]

Brass behaves differently than does iron/steel and does not quench harden. The water cooling in the video is an optional step, it can be used or not as desired without effecting the outcome of the annealing process.

[@jimmcgovern7515]

@@314299 Thanks for the info.

[@takedeadaim8671]

Steel and BRass are two different types of metal that react differently to heat and quenching, that’s why the annealing process must be specific to the metal type

[@Frogmobile52]

Nope! Non ferrous metals do not harden at quenching including silver.

[@hpmacmurray]

I just watched a guy put a case on a brick and torch it. Where did he see that ? I do the socket/drill into bread pan. Dark area with glasses to see the color change and carefully timed to boot. Your method is now formally recognized as totally acceptable. A+ for no burnt fingers.

[@314299]

I guess the guy with the case on a brick and torch wanted to avoid burning his counter, however he stands a good chance of overheating the case and ruining it. At the very least his cases will be annealed more on one side than the other. The drill/socket method does give a case heated uniformly, but you do have to be careful not to over do the heat as the potential exists of over heating the case head.

[@Frogmobile52]

At last a guy with simple gear an plenty of common sense without the 7000 $ machinery.. Thanks Mate!

[@314299]

Thanks for the comment, I'm glad you found the video useful.

[@swakelin97910]

Thanks for the video I'm going to add this step into my 303 British reloading.

[@Jimbojenkins]

Excellent instruction vid Sir! I used to do that when I reloaded long ago!

[@theBodger]

As a newbie to reloading Thanks for the Video and saving me money on buying new cases.🇬🇧

[@edadpops1709]

Haha i knew i didnt have to spend hundreds on a anealer machine. If its to hot to hold its to hot for the case. Profoundly right👍🏻

[@hojoe164]

Thanks, Should i Anneal The brass befor or after fully resizing The brass?

[@314299]

I do the anneal after I size the brass, however I don't think it would make a huge difference if you did it before.

[@DistinctEditz555]

I would do it after, That way you can resize it and get that primer out and do the annealing and after you're done you will have a ready to polish (tumble) case.

[@isher9035]

Technically, you're supposed to do it before, as the idea is to soften the shoulder and neck before the sizing die works the neck and shoulder. If a spent primer is a concern, just get a general depriming die (I use RCBS dies, which decap and resize in one step).

[@snoozinglion8596]

Excellent demonstration! Thanks for taking the time.

[@314299]

+Snoozing Lion You are welcome.

[@richardhansen2995]

Any idea if the water effects the outcome? Seems like shock cooling it would reverse the softening effect.

[@314299]

Brass behaves differently than does iron/steel and does not quench harden. The water cooling in the video is an optional step, it can be used or not as desired without effecting the outcome of the annealing process.

[@ptbush6323]

I anneal exactly the same but skip the water part and just drop the brass into a tin foil pan. With the lights turned down low you will see a low dull red colour come into the neck and shoulder. This is a good indicator of the amount of heat as well.

[@314299]

The water portion is not strictly required and I don't do it myself anymore. I never heat the cases until they glow as that tends to bring them to a dead soft state which is not my goal, I'm only tying to stress relieve the brass and remove some of the excess hardness induced by the sizing.

[@vc9743]

Finally, a sensible way to do this, thanks for not over complicating it.

[@fightingbear8537]

Thanks for the video. I wonder how it is done on an industrial scale?

[@314299]

I think there are a few video's out there showing ammo production that show segments on the annealing process.

[@MrDaveinAB]

So as soon as the color changes its good to go? I'll have to give this a try! Thanks for making a great instructional video.

[@314299]

It's good to have some factory annealed brass to compare to, and try yo duplicate that, but it's better to error on the side of caution and go a little on the light side.

[@crasht8]

Quenching usually makes metals brittle? I would have thought that letting it cool at room temperature was the go....

[@314299]

That is true for ferrous alloys (steel/iron) but is not the case with brass.

[@Carnyx_1]

By immediately dipping them in the water aren't you A) undoing the annealing and B) temporing the case (the opposite of annealing)?

[@314299]

Brass behaves differently than does iron/steel and does not quench harden. The water cooling in the video is an optional step, it can be used or not as desired without effecting the outcome of the annealing process.

[@johngiff2978]

I thought you were to let the shells air cool after annealing? Does dipping in water not reintroduce the stresses and reharden the brass to some degree? Thanks!

[@314299]

No, dipping them in water does not harden them at all. Brass is quite different than steel or iron.

[@rsdaarud]

Any problem with air cooling after heating?

[@314299]

No issues with air cooling. In fact now that's how I do mine, I no longer bother with the water at all.

[@Uneasy80]

Great video and thorough! Just starting to reload so any way to save money is appreciated.

[@314299]

Thanks for stopping by and checking out the video. I hope you have fun and success with your reloading efforts!

[@gasgas8708]

Hello!Why annealing usually provides only for neck not for full body?

[@314299]

That's a good question. The reason that only the neck/shoulder area is annealed is that the process softens the brass, this characteristic is only desirable in those areas. The head and body of the case would be weakened by annealing, they need to be hard/tough in order to perform properly.

[@gasgas8708]

@@314299 I'm only beginner so thanks for your answer!

[@JimmyEatDirt]

This is gonna sound really, really dumb, but I'm new to reloading. I'm trying to make a wildcat round that requires significant resizing of the neck of the case. Is this process done between using the die press, or is this just to extend the life of the cade? Thanks in advance.

[@314299]

Generally annealing should be performed after you are finished with your case forming operations. It will remove some of the stress induced to the cases due the reforming / working of the brass. If you do it before you do your case forming you risk the brass becoming too soft and collapsing when sized, this is especially a concern with bottle neck cases that most rifle rounds have.

[@stevemurray6150]

Glad I found this video. I like keeping things simple. Thanks

[@314299]

urbankz You are welcome, thanks for the comment.

[@dhooter]

I would have thought the rapid cooling of the water would actually harden the brass. Kinda like heat treating steel to be harder. Maybe it's the low temp?

[@314299]

Brass behaves differently than does iron/steel and does not quench harden. The water cooling in the video is an optional step, it can be used or not as desired without effecting the outcome of the annealing process.

[@dhooter]

@@314299 I did not know that about brass. Great video and thanks for answering my question 👍

[@Johnny-jr2lq]

Looks like I should get good results from this. I’m having a issue with my reloading. I’ll zero in on a great load for a rifle beautiful group in the latter stage. But when I come back to recreate the load that worked in the testing stage of reloading. It will not shoot as good only thing that is changed is the brass being resized. Same bullets Sierra 168gr BTHP on top of CFE223. Same charge weight same projectiles same primer same brass even. This has to be the solution to my problem annealing

[@314299]

Yes neck tension can have an effect on groupings. With continued reloading the brass gets harder changing the neck tension, annealing the brass may help with this and improve the groupings of your load. One other factor might be in play, and that is "bonding" of the bullet to the case neck caused by carbon and fouling on the inside of the case necks. Dirty case necks tend to stick the bullets in the cases, especially if the rounds sit a long time before being fired, so make sure your case necks are clean as well.

[@randyreek]

Keep it simple! Works good. I am going to try holding the brass on a scratch awl - through the primer hole - with one hand and spinning the cartridge with the other.

[@314299]

Interesting idea. Let us know how it works out.

[@TheBruinspride123]

Got into reloading a few months ago, but started annealing about a month ago. However, whenever I anneal my case necks they turn black instead of turning slightly discolored like your brass does. Do you have any ideas as to why they turn black? I'm using a propane torch and taking the brasd away from the flame right before the flame changes from blue to red, but I cant figure out why my brass is turning black after annealing them.

[@314299]

It sounds to me as though your torch is not burning properly and leaving carbon/soot on the brass.

[@TheBruinspride123]

@@314299 so you think buying a new torch would fix the issue? It is an older torch that's been sitting in the shop for a long time

[@mtslyh]

What about straight walled handgun cases like .45 colt and .357 magnum? Do you anneal as often, less often, not at all? I'm assuming you'd still want to just do the mouth of the case. And being a shorter case you'd have a hard time holding it with your fingers...

[@314299]

For straight wall cases you only want the very edge of the case in the flame, obviously the shorter the case the more care you need to take.

[@payres48]

How often do you recommend annealing brass? How many firings before you feel it necessary?

[@314299]

I try to anneal bout every five to seven loadings.

[@The762x39mm]

Excellent video. I like your method very much. I saw others video on youtube and guys get their brass red hot,i think is bad for case life right?

[@314299]

Heating the brass red hot will bring brass to a dead soft state, it can lead to the case collapsing when the bullet is seated.

[@heatshield]

about what temp to you think these reach before you cool them? Does 300° sound about right?

[@314299]

About 400° Celcius.

[@duxrusso]

Like finding a needle in a hay stack!! Im a subscriber. Thank you for the common sense of it all. Ive read the comments, amazing feedback. Great video and teaching guide. 🍻😎👍

[@314299]

Thanks for the feedback, glad to hear you liked the video.

[@jerrychambers7267]

At what stage do you anneal the brass ? Is it after 4-5 reloads and do you anneal before prepping brass or after ?

[@314299]

I anneal after sizing the brass. Four or five reloads between is generally fine.

[@jimbo2.094]

Just asking but I thought quenching caused metal to harden. Maybe brass is different? The definition of annealing is allowing something to cool slowly to relive stress. Would it be better to let the brass cool naturally say in a metal pan? Thanks for the video. Always learning.

[@314299]

The properties of brass are quite different than the properties of steel/iron, so dipping the hot cases in water does not harden them at all.

[@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote]

Makes no difference if you dunk them or air dry, brass is brass it has no carbon content. You could do the same to A36 mild steel and it will not harden one bit because it has no carbon content. In order for a metal to get hard it has to have a high carbon content in it like knife making steels do or it will not get hard at all

[@baugwan1]

The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.😁

[@314299]

Back when I used to use a tumbler with dry media I was always careful to inspect each piece of brass to insure it was free of media and took the time to poke any media out of the primer flash hole. As a result I never had any issues with my tumbled brass when reloaded, however I have see other reloaders have problems, generally stuck media leads to duds. I have switched to wet tumbling with stainless pins and it is such a superior method I have not used my dry tumbler in several years.

[@elingeniero9117]

Ice pick from the hardware store. If you are cheap and handy, you stick a length of coat hanger wire or broken drill bit on on old broom stick and poke the stuff out.

[@Jon-da-bad]

clean with the fired primers in@@314299

[@txklint]

Sir why do you use the water? I've always seen them just air cool. Great video

[@314299]

The water was to prevent the leftover heat from moving down into the case head, however it probably is not required.

[@OneofMyTurns]

I have to anneal mine after first initial sizing because I’m making 300BLK out of 5.56 brass.

[@314299]

Yes, annealing is certainly recommended after a case forming operation like that.

[@Yukon12gauge00buck]

Thanks for the demonstration and explanation I have some privy 308 brass that needs a treatment.

[@314299]

This is one of those things that's better to do too early than too late.

[@charlesbullee7215]

Would the water harden the brass maybe?

[@314299]

No, it does not. Hardening when quenched happens with iron/steel but not with brass.

[@Seriona1]

Do you think it's wise or absurd to anneal every time you reload? Basically you fire it once, clean and get it ready and then anneal. Rinse and repeat.

[@314299]

I know target shooters who do that, but they have expensive annealing machines that are much more precise that the hand method shown here. I think for the average shooter/reloader annealing every five to seven loadings is sufficient as our goal is to extend the life of the brass.

[@Seriona1]

@@314299 The only reason I ask is because I do not organize my brass based on how many times it's been fired, if it's safe, I will reload it. Thanks for responding.

[@isher9035]

With this method, you could do it every time. Or, if you have enough time, just do it when you bring your brass back and just keep all the annealed cases in a container ready for use.

[@Seriona1]

@@isher9035 Fair point. I am still on the fence about annealing.

[@darinhintz5723]

Nice! Would this be necessary for straight walled? Would it really increase shell life? I'm reloading 45-70 and never thought of this step.

[@314299]

Yes, it would be just as beneficial for a straight wall rifle case like a 45/70 as for a bottle neck one.

[@jamespollard1670]

Thanks for showing this simple way , I've seen guys anneal half way down the case in other vids and swear it was the right way to do it . I believe the color change should be slightly below the shoulder as you did .

[@314299]

Yeah not much point in going too far down the case as it does not get worked as much by the dies as the neck/shoulder does.

[@elvisjerrylee]

Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like you are only doing a 180 degree on the flame and case, not a complete 360 degree.

[@314299]

No, the cases are being rotated 360.

[@anthonybutcher7739]

@@314299 I had the same Q to be honest - on that first case that you put in the flame, the spot/mark near the base of the case never faces the flame. Admittedly it's better than standing static in a pan of water, but not getting a true 360.

[@Drakio95]

Brilliant video mate.

[@CHEECHMUN]

Is it useful to do pistol, or revolver brass?

[@314299]

I have never bothered annealing handgun brass, it's too hard to put the heat where required while keeping it away from the case head.

[@IvanZehirov]

Whats your opinion on lapua brass 7.62x53 R ? Thanks

[@314299]

Most would folks rate the Lapua the best brand of brass for the caliber, and actually the best for most calibers. However the batch of 50 Lapua 7.62x53R brass I had suffered a lot losses from of cracking after only limited use (3 or 4 loadings), but perhaps I got a bad batch. If I were in the market for brass for this caliber I think the PPU stuff is plenty good enough for much less money, and it it has proven in my use to be good durable stuff.

[@IvanZehirov]

@@314299 Thanks a lot ! Very valuable information!

[@wiederladerTv]

Normaly I would like to build an machine for this Job until I saw your Video. seems to be a pretty fast method. Thanks for sharing.

[@314299]

It's certainly quick and simple.

[@stibbsd]

Great video and thank you! Typically how many loads will you go through before you anneal once again? Or do you do this each time?

[@314299]

I try to anneal bout every five to seven loadings.

[@alouiciousjackson5812]

Supposedly a swirl torch gives better heat distribution, I've never tried it though

[@314299]

Do they produce a different type of flame?

[@valterforlano9734]

Hi I am Valter from Naples Italy How are the caliber of Lapua Palma 308 bossoli? They work well? thank you Greetings

[@314299]

They are excellent quality of course, but having small primer pockets are only suitable for ammunition to be used in summer conditions.

[@valterforlano9734]

Because they are only used for ammunition to be used in summer conditions.?? Let's talk about lapua palm !!!!

[@314299]

Yes, the small primers used cannot be counted on to produce uniform and consistent ignition of powder charges at cold temperatures, however this is generally not an issue as "Palma" style target shooting is a warm weather sport.

[@valterforlano9734]

Okay, thanks to the next one

[@chrism1190]

Is it better to anneal after sizing and trimming or beforehand? Thanks.

[@314299]

I would wait until after the cases are sized.

[@chrism1190]

Thanks.

[@hamzamehr1499]

Can this process be used to prevent Case head separation?

[@314299]

No. It is not safe to anneal anything but the front portion of the case, annealing the rear of the case will ruin it.

[@Toolness1]

No, but look into neck sizing if it's a bolt action. If it's a semi auto, be sure you aren't over sizing your case. Size it exactly to max spec so there is less stretch. Usually case head separation is from a overly generous chamber or too much headspace. I have a couple old milsurp rifles that will separate heads in just a couple rings, so I neck size only and get way more use of the brass.

[@shaverlocal]

A very simple approach to a system I need to pursue. Thanks for the education and I already have what I need to do this project. How many firings before you anneal?. Thanks, Mark

[@314299]

I usually go five to seven firings between annealing.

[@shaverlocal]

Thanks!

[@zachburleson495]

great video thank you.. simple, logical and cost effective. annealing is not some kind of black magic. just watch this video and get annealing!

[@lyricalman20]

Aren't you Harding it by quenching it???

[@freemenownrifles8814]

BRASS DOES NOT HARDEN THE WAY A STEEL WOULD.....

[@yareyare_dechi]

nope. only ferrous metals (that is metals constraining iron, so steel etc) harden by quenching. copper and copper alloys (brass bronze etc) harden by repeated stress. try it with a piece of copper tube, bend it back and forth and it will get hard and snap

[@mitchloren]

Thanks for the info. Simple and direct. Aloha, Loren

[@314299]

+Loren Mitchell Thanks for the feedback.

[@over9000pontiacs]

I dont think you have heated it enough for long enough to reduce the work hardening back to elasticity

[@314299]

The idea is not to reduce the brass to a soft state, the idea is to reduce the stress built up in the brass from sizing. Taking the brass to a soft state risks the shoulder collapsing when the brass is sized and also leads to very inconsistent neck tension on the loaded rounds.

[@brushwolf]

I'm not attempting to be a "smart a--" in asking this question, but aren't you re-hardening the brass when you quench with the water? Genuinely seeking info.

[@314299]

The properties of brass are quite different than the properties of steel/iron, so dipping the hot cases in water does not harden them at all. Hardening when quenched happens with iron/steel but not with brass.

[@brushwolf]

@@314299 I'm a knife maker so thanks for clarifying. I wish I would have seen this earlier as I just annealed a batch of, probably 10x fired 7.5x54 and some slightly newer 8mm, getting done just before seeing this. I submerged them 3/4 and annealed to slightly below the shoulder. I will try your method next time. Thanks for the reply and info!

[@GunGuy258]

Thank you for this tutorial.

[@314299]

You are welcome.

[@emnhw1comcastnet]

Thanks,excellent advice! This goes for all rifle cases I assume? I reload 223, 45/70,303 brit, 458 win mag, 30-30,8x56r and 7.5 swiss> Thanks for your time!

[@314299]

Yep, same technique used for all cases.

[@sluggou812beotch]

Now you need to learn how to reload that propane canister. I haven't bought one of those propane tanks in years since I bought a refill adapter on Amazon for $11.

[@314299]

I probably use only two cylinders a year.

[@KRN762]

Should you anneal before or after you convert a case to another caliber? For example, from .30-06 to 7.7mm japanese?

[@314299]

No, much better to do the annealing after the conversion as that's when the brass has been work hardened.

[@bill65761]

Question: Should I anneal before or after sizing / trimming.

[@314299]

+bill65761 I would do the annealing after sizing and trimming.

[@bill65761]

+314299 Shooting Channel Thank you ... I'm looking at 10 gallons of .223 cases and not wanting to make 10 gallons of scrap to go with the 1,800 rounds of unreliable reloads I've already made. The test rounds all functioned just fine ... but because I was given bad information from an experienced reloader, I had not length trimmed them and had not used a small base die when sizing them. When I caliper them, the used cases are as short as 1.734 (range pick up headstamped FC and the shortest of a random 20 cases of .223 measured). SAAMI calls for a max of 1.760 and I am seeing suggestions to trim to 1.750 or 1.745. If it's not too much to ask, could you tell me what length you trim to and why?

[@johnv8355]

Hi bill65761, Try one of these doo-dads from Sinclair International: www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/measuring-tools/case-gauges-headspace-tools/sinclair-chamber-length-gage-prod32925.aspx It's a chamber length gage. Trim a case way down and then insert this little tool into the neck, then you carefully insert it and close the bolt, then carefully extract it and measure the total length, which will giver you the exact length of THAT RIFLE'S particular chamber. I have one in .308 and .223. Good luck, and happy reloading.

[@MrIdasam]

Excellent video, thank you very much.

[@dougdavis7171]

Annealing brass is accomplished by heating it up. Putting it in water quenches it which makes it harder not softer.

[@314299]

No, it does not harden when quenched in water. That would be the case with iron/steel alloys, but is not how brass behaves.

[@perryscott1140]

Awesome method! Bare fingers ensure the web is not heated. No expensive single-purpose equipment, and no extra storage space needed. My inner Scotsman salutes you! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 That flame is hard to see. It may be safer to put the water where the case could be dropped with a slight arm/hand movement _away_ from the flame. Could save some knuckle hair. Thumbs up.

[@314299]

Thanks for the comment. My usual set up is different than the one I had to use for the purpose of showing the process on video so that's why it perhaps looks a bit awkward on the video.

[@slowhand1198]

Quick and effective. The pliers are a bit cumbersome, and hand rotation seems more sure than dancing about several with the torch. I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

[@314299]

And with practice you can get a very consistent result.

[@robertmitchell9415]

Nice and simple.... who needs an expensive machine, a blow torch & fingers is my sort of solution.

[@314299]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad that this video is still useful to folks years after I made it.

[@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote]

Been doing it this way for years. I had some weirdo tell me the engineer in him wouldn't allow him to do it this way. Being a construction worker now days seeing how often engineers f**k simple common things up I replied "yes it's best you do not do it the simple way"

[@314299]

Many people who have lots of education seem to lack a lot of common sense.

[@coreyg7575]

$40 Canadian for Federal 150 grn .303 British, cases not annealed. $32 Canadian for PPU 150 grn .303 British, cases are annealed.

[@314299]

Federal brass is annealed, it's just that they polish the brass after it is annealed and that removes the color at the neck.

[@coreyg7575]

314299 Shooting Channel Good to know, do you find the federal brass is as good for reloading as the PPU brass? Or better/not as good?

[@Toolness1]

IMO, PPU brass is good. It's the only game in town for many obscure military calibers, and I use a ton of it.

[@davidsolomon915]

Ok... i am a noob. So not correcting. But asking. I am a welder. And heating something. And then quenching it. Makes it hard... not soft???? Like a knife maker will heat blade cherry red and then quench it. To than make it ductile he puts it in oven. Heats up to 400-500 degrees. And then lets it cool slowly in the oven. So would this process not harden the brass????

[@314299]

As brass is not a ferrous alloy it does not behave the way iron/steel does, therefore it does not quench harden the way steel does, so cooling it in water does not harden it. So with these different properties one can heat brass to soften it and then cool it rapidly without loosing the softness. Hardness in brass is achieved by work hardening (drawing, forming) the object. It is not necessary to drop the brass in water if one does not want to, the process works just as well without it, my current method involves letting the brass just air cool. I do it this way now just to avoid the extra step of having to dry the brass off.

[@ny6u]

Very nicely done

[@314299]

Thanks.

[@joshoertle3779]

if you don't get it up to 660 to 665, you're not doing anything, just getting it hot.

[@314299]

Apparently I must be getting them hot enough as the brass I've processed using this method lasts and does not suffer from neck cracks. Overheating is worse than under-heating, as it turns case necks/shoulders dead soft to the point where they often collapse when seating bullets or crimping.

[@42n3quarters]

heating it up to any degree relieves stress, 660-665 is just the suggested "optimal" temperature. depending who you ask it's generally accepted at 400-500 for 10-15 seconds which works out to roughly a max of upper 600 or so depending on the heat source. the trick is localized heating in the tip.

[@Sanwizard1]

Simple. I like it.

[@314299]

Thanks.

[@agitator263]

Very interesting,thanks for sharing!

[@314299]

Thanks for checking out the video.

[@edwardjames1369]

Thank you

[@314299]

You're welcome. Happy new year!

[@petervollhiem3109]

Much thanks for this video. Thumbs up.

[@314299]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback.

[@davidw4346]

Good info thanks

[@314299]

You are welcome.

[@rikacoetzer8135]

Thank you very good info and video

[@314299]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@ians1464]

I'm liking this thanks

[@314299]

Thanks for the comment.

[@davidwagner4355]

good info

[@314299]

Thanks.

[@TotalHunter]

That’s great thank tou

[@314299]

Thanks for the comment.

[@bretthl1]

This is a gem, can't wait to try it. KISS.

[@toddcrisanti4348]

Sorry, don’t hate me but as soon as you dip it in water you hardened your brass

[@314299]

No, it does not. That would be the case with iron/steel alloys, but is not how brass behaves.

[@justinvernal]

👌🇺🇸

[@314299]

Thanks.

[@JoefromSoCal]

He's showing us how he anneals brass. He's not trying to be a youtube star.

[@314299]

Yep, that's the idea.

[@johnduffin9425]

Not OSHA Approved! Im not getting my hand that close to that a of hot flame. If I did anything remotely close to that on the job I would be fired and banned.

[@314299]

No doubt KZbin will soon ban this video as it is related to reloading ammo....

[@jaredmoss8170]

OSHA has Perry the Platypus hanging from a light fixture in front of their climatizer using a power cord... It's probably covered under that safety exclusion, haha.