How I Copy Parts in the Garage on a CNC Mill

[@richarda.valdes1197]

My father was a Master Machinist back in the 50s. I was amazed what he could do with a piece of metal. All work was dialed in and machined to perfect dimensions. I would love for him to see these new advancements in his field.

[@adamdebowski2037]

I love the world of cnc - because it can turn laymen like me into somebody who can produce/make something. Machinists like your father had to be very skilled to make what they did with the equipment they had - and they truly made amazing things. CNC (which does come with its own set of challenges) for better or for worse, is killing that art. I work in manufacturing and it’s very difficult to find skilled machinists! All that said - it is amazing to watch and I bet your father would be blown away :)

[@duediligence791]

And your father didn’t need to copy peoples proprietary property.

[@dominic6634]

​@@adamdebowski2037 reason its so difficult to find machinist is because they aren't treated very well. And there is minimal chance of promotion out of the field

[@Trenz0]

​@@duediligence791wtf lol. What a weird take

[@Mikkel-RS]

@@adamdebowski2037 Cnc isnt killing the art, its separating the people who want to push buttons to those who want to make parts even better. You sir are the latter. Good work :)

[@WoodcraftBySuman]

Incredible explanation and visualization of the workflow. Well done, my guy!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Much appreciated!

[@pinklightfever]

As someone from a visual design background who is trying to teach themselves CAD and get into the machining industry, this video is excellent. Have subbed and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Thanks dude.

[@Ds755rxz]

You do awesome work and are very talented. I have been involved with cnc machining 30+ years but with cad/cam you take it to the highest level in your home garage. Good job.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Those are some very kind words. Thank you for the comment and for watching. I appreciate it 👍👍

[@42Pursuit]

Phenomenal walkthrough and explanation of each step. I feel like just seeing your process answered some questions that I didn't even know I had. Keep up the great work!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thanks! Glad you found the video helpful :)

[@MR_GT78]

I am not even attempting this type of work but I enjoy the knowledge and found your video while just learning something new. Great job.

[@tj9382]

That’s a really cool way to copy a rather complicated and awkward part. Nice job.

[@SPUF-PERFORMANCE]

it's nice to see such a small machine can get the job done very well, pretty impressive.😃

[@yasplatcuba2592]

I saw a guy in Cuba doing that by hand on a freaking homemade lathe to fix his old Chevy 1956. Tecnology is a bless.

[@TheShawline]

That is incredible Adam, I am an old school Fitter Machinist. CNC is 'new' to me. Thinking about purchasing a mill similar to yours for my home workshop, hoping to make some motorcycle parts in nearing retirement. Thanks for sharing your expertise and inspiring me to have a go. Cheers.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Andrew - I’m glad you enjoyed it! Even after having the mill for a few years, I’m still amazed at what cheap CNC equipment is able to do these days. I think you’ll agree - good luck and enjoy the journey! - Adam

[@dennisbjones]

So, are you able to have an output from the probe to input the coordinates in the CAD software or are you stuck with manually adding them to the drawings? That would be neat if possible.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Definitely stuck with manually adding them - one by one - to the model and drawing. In theory, it should be possible to write a probing program to go to certain places, probe features, and save the data, but that kind of thing is way over my head. I haven't proven/tried it, but I'm very sure my post wouldn't support it either.

[@petergoose8164]

Hi Adam. I learnt a lot watching this. I have an old Syil X4 with Mach3 and F360. Although your setup is different the way you apply the principles is excellent. Your video quality is very good and your presentation with all the feeds, speeds etc is great. Very few people mention how useful photographs can be - something I discovered myself. The way you position the features first before overlaying the image has really got me thinking.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Peter - thanks for the feedback. I’m glad you enjoyed it. I agree that photos are immensely useful for this kind of thing. I’ve also learned that the further back the camera is from the part, the more accurate the results - I think it reduces the “perspective skew.” How much? I’m not sure… cheers! 🍻

[@petergoose8164]

@@adamdebowski2037 We have traveled the same road here. I use a 35mm camera and a wide angle lens close up is not ideal. A longer focus lens (105mm) from further away gives better results.

[@Torques_moto]

My workflow for this is to use a c-stand and an 85mm lens where possible and correct the inherent distortion in Lightroom before using the photo. Lightroom can use the metadata from something as simple as a phone to minimise the distortion. I’ve found three measurements to be far more accurate with this method, even going closer to the edge of the photo.

[@ken481959]

I just bought a used Syil X3 with Mach 3 and can't get the computer to grab the mill. I am awaiting a new DB25 cable, will have it in a couple days. Know any good sites for my machine?

[@strage88]

If you don't like the finish of your endmill then try experimenting with different feeds and speeds. Usually, harder material need faster speeds and taking a finishing pass or two of 0.010 to 0.005 will clean up the face nicely. To be fair, I only work with a manual lathe and mill due to the fact I don't have access to a cnc yet. Great video, I can't wait to see more.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thanks, Steve! I'm pressure sure the issue here is that the inserts I have are either 0 radius or 0.010" radius. Something like 0.030" or more should be better.... I think.... Cheers - Adam

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Super well explained. I really like your fixture plate concept and your conveying the concepts behind the operations. Part came out beautiful. Thank you.

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Nearly as elusive as TOT...HA HA: 4:53

[@BeckTools]

what kind of probe are you using? I just got a Langmuir System MR-1 and the probe that came with it is +- .008" I need something that is +- .001" I would love to have a probe so I don't have to edge find.

[@adamdebowski2037]

This is the S5000 probe from drewtronics. It is good to within around a thousandth. I love it!

[@customsolutionsinc]

Id be curious to hear a cost/time breakdown to final price for done part. To see where time is absorbed compared to operation earnings. I hope that made sense.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi customsolutionsinc - good question. Each piece of aluminum was around $50, and I did the work for $650 I think. A much lower price than a machine shop would charge. I do this stuff because I love it, and I try to at the very least pay for my hobby. If I was making many of these, it would be lot more lucrative, but I would not recommend a machine like this for serious production runs. It’s a fun hobby machine and a great learning tool. If you’re into making things for yourself, perfect option. I’d you’re looking to make money, I’d invest in a small VMC. Hope that helps! Cheers 🍻

[@antoniosoto801]

@@adamdebowski2037thanks for talking about cost. While watching the video, I kept thinking about how much would I charge for this type of work. The level of detail and the tolerances you worked to made me immediately think about the $500-$1000 range charge for the completed part.

[@CraigHollabaugh]

This was very informative. Do you have a list of the tooling you used here? I just bought a PM745VT with a Masso/Clearpaths. I'm watching some of your other videos now.

[@adamdebowski2037]

I use the Tormach TTS tool holding system & use bright/uncoated 2 flute (for 1/8” tools or smaller) endmills, and bright/uncoated 3 flute endmills (for 3/16” tools or bigger) in aluminum/brass/plastics. For steels I typically use coated 4 flute endmills. You might like this video where i quickly go over everything I use: Convert a Bench Mill to CNC - Everything You Need to Know kzbin.info/www/bejne/mH_CdWaEjNyXq5Y

[@CraigHollabaugh]

@@adamdebowski2037 Thanks, Ill watch that one and take notes.

[@emreunal7085]

Great video Adam, thank you a lot. Would you share a video from beginning like starting from drawing part, if it’s possible? I wonder how u copy as same as with the original dimensions

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Emre - I plan on doing some more detailed CAD and CAM videos in the future. Stay tuned!

[@bmorlok84]

Can you get that probe to take in dimensions as you did into solid works? Fascinating video! I've been itching to get setup going!

[@adamdebowski2037]

It doesn’t import dimensions into solidworks. I just spits out dimensions.

[@tiagocosta9714]

This was a pleasure to watch, thank you for sharing

[@joe_duck]

I know this video is from 2 years ago but I’m trying to understand cad more. I have seen people in solid edge make surfaces from sketches. My current learning that I’m trying to do is take a toolhead air duct and create the duct path line. I was trying to create a solid by using sweep but it just errors. Would it be better to create a surface? I am ignorant so keep this in mind, but would it be better to create a surface and then convert to a solid?

[@adamdebowski2037]

You can sweep a solid or surface, one isn’t easier than the other. You may be getting errors because you’re not using the “pierce” sketch relation. Also, if you’re just wanting to sweep a circle, you don’t even need to draw the circle. If you draw the duct path line, then go right into the sweet feature, solidworks will give you the option of sweeping a circle at tue size of your choosing… although keep in mind that feature came into existence around 2020 if I remember right. You can then use the shell feature to hollow out the solid so it’s like a tube. Fee free to email me at [e-mail] if you have any more questions. Include some screen shots/details of what you’re trying to do and I’ll be happy to help.

[@joe_duck]

@@adamdebowski2037 I created a circle on xy plane and changed the curve in 3D space. It will allow surface to create the duct on sweep but when in solid it says that all edges selected as path or cross section must be connected. They are connected and also the path and the circle overlap so they def touch. Sounds like something in solid edge.

[@rodrigoestrada1517]

Hi Adam, I was looking how to duplicate a part and your video just shows up. Thanks. I am trying to find a place to duplicate a part for a very old washer machine, can you help with it? Thank you

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Rodrigo. Send some photos of the part to my email - [e-mail]. Let’s have a look.

[@zoridor16]

Hello friend, how are you? Is it possible to make a couple of engravings for a kyosho that I have? I have not been able to find the originals anywhere, so I would like to know if there is the possibility of "recreating" ones with a diameter of 2.5 cm and 15 teeth... regards, wonderful contribution

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Zorodor. Feel free to send me an email with some photos and more details. Anything is possible!

[@drewlarson65]

what's the story behind the serial number etc. written on your fixture plate? inventory management?

[@adamdebowski2037]

You got it 👍

[@Perez.]

is it possible to a copy a cylinder head port using larger centroid machine?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Absolutely. Centroid is just the controller - you can think of it as the computer/brain of the machine. The physical mill is what would have to be larger.

[@Perez.]

@@adamdebowski2037 can you teach me the process on how to a copy cylinder head port design and what machine to buy? im willing to pay you for your time. im planning to open a machineshop here in philippines but i dont know who really knows how to operate this thing

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@Perez. feel free to send me an email with the details - a photo of the part you’re trying to copy - and if you’d like, check out some of my other videos on how to make a CNC machine for low cost.

[@jt.124]

how do you translate the probe data into accurate position data in solidworks? great video

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi John. After running a probing routine on the Acorn for, say, a bore, it will give you the size of the bore, and it's position with respect to the work coordinate offset. So lets say you set any bore to have its center axis a x=0 and y=0. Then when you measure another bore, it will give you it's size, and it's X & Y coordinates. So when you're modelling the part, you'll know where to draw that second bore with respect to the first. I pick one bore to be my x/y 0, and then measure all the other bores to get their size and positions, and I'll draw them all in solidworks, one at a time, as I'm measuring them on the machine. Does that make sense?

[@jt.124]

@@adamdebowski2037 awesome! thanks for explaining that Adam.

[@brandonatallian2128]

This was very helpful for understanding order of operations and fixturing ideas. Thanks for sharing your process!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Brandon - I'm glad you found it helpful - Cheers!

[@andrewbednar7251]

Did you need to select a different cable type on the Probe for the Acorn board?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Yes. I did not get the tormach connector. Just a two-lead wire. Would be better if you got a 3 lead wire to wire into the acorn so you can have both a probe trip circuit and a probe detect circuit.

[@cristianlemcke5194]

Very nice work, sir! What kind of aluminium are you using in that particular work? Thank you!!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Cristian - the aluminum is 6061

[@cristianlemcke5194]

Thank you so Much Adam!!!

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@cristianlemcke5194 my pleasure 🍻🍻

[@airgunningyup]

im guessing youre running servos or closed loop for the accuracy your getting from a mill conversion?( I have a good idea of the accuracy your getting based on the probling accuracy for the parts ) I think a common problem , atleast on my mill is the chinese ball screws i used , when tested under load after the fact they have about .003 alone , nevermind the losses in all the other parts.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Yessir - closed loop steppers. Have you shimmed your double ball nuts? Played with the backlash comp in your control? If you’ve over tightened the gibs that’s another way to introduce backlash. Cheers 🍻 Adam

[@7451996james]

Awesome video! For the better finish on the 16mm have a look at your run out and make sure it's not a low tip scoring up floor !

[@android4cg]

Great video! Super interesting ideas to fix the parts for milling from both sides.

[@sandwon]

Great work. I am subbed. I work with the Centroid system at work.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thanks! What kind of machine are you running it on? How do you like it?

[@up9709]

How much was your setup for machine and all the bits and probe

[@joell439]

Outstanding summary of a tremendous amount of work. I saw in a separate comment you provided an idea of the real-time hours involved. Definitely not trivial, but your attention to detail in building the part and developing the cam yielded what appears to be perfect parts without having to make practice chips/parts 😉. Especially helpful that you detail what tools you’re using along with feeds and speeds. This is truly the secret sauce in machining. I’ve just found your channel and immediately subscribed. I’m looking forward to checking out previous and future content. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍😎👍👍

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thanks for the comments, Joel! I’m glad the monotone feeds/speeds commentary didn’t put every viewer to sleep 😂

[@zyndapp800]

@@adamdebowski2037 These comments were highly apprecciated Adam - thank you for such a nice video and I just subscribed for your future content🙂

[@MJ-iy4fb]

@@adamdebowski2037 I prefer the straightforward "monotone feeds" myself. Nice video

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@MJ-iy4fb Haha thanks, MJ - noted. Seems these details are appreciated. Will make a point to include them in future content. Cheers. Adam

[@DiddleDangle]

@@adamdebowski2037 Gives it kind of a "How it's Made" sound. It's actually very easy listening and a good pace.

[@rhemaislife]

Thank you so much i hope to absorb a lot, though i dont understand some parts

[@georgef1176]

Pretty cool. I’ve always been curious how those small mills are. Great job.

[@northernlits425]

nice work, you make it look so easy!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Cheers! I like to think of it as a lot of work, but not hard. CNC machining is borderline magic! 🍻🍻

[@makosharkcnc7730]

Hi, just came across this video, you are getting nice finish with the PM30, I'm running a PM25MV

[@adamdebowski2037]

Cheers - how are you finding your finishes? Our mills are almost identical - I would expect you’re getting something similar.

[@makosharkcnc7730]

@@adamdebowski2037 i don't think it's as nice as your. I think if i was running coolant or something for lubricant i would be get great finish. I do like the mill for what it is. I'm not as talented as you are programming. I use Gibbs cam

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@makosharkcnc7730 Thanks for the kind words! I don't consider myself a talented programmer. I have been designing for many years, but I'm pretty new to CAM and machining in general. I do, however, have the benefit of having friends that are very good programmers, and I use them shamelessly! Some advice that you may already know, and might help with finishes: In general, I remove the maximum amount of material as fast as possible, but I leave a 0.010" "skin" all around the part that I later clean up with light finishing passes that produce great finishes. I find our mills really shake around when removing lots of material, but they're rigid enough to remove small amounts of material accurately when needed. Cheers! Adam.

[@blackboxembedded]

Great videos Adam. Re your s5000LED probe. I don't see any wiring diagrams on the drewtronics site. I'm running an Acorn too and their KP3 is a 3 wire probe. Is the s5000LED a 2 or 3 wire?

[@blackboxembedded]

NM, I saw your other vid re s5000LED. So no detect just signal and common. I try not to cheap out on tools, but the s5000LED is 1/3rd the price and you sound pretty pleased with it. I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks for the great videos :)

[@adamdebowski2037]

You got it. Ya, I love the thing and haven’t had any issues w it. Because there’s no detect, centroid prompts you to hit the probe with your finger to make sure it’s working. When you hit it, you see a probe tripped message in the dialogue box. You can choose to do that check or just press cycle start if you’re feeling lucky! Lol

[@adamdebowski2037]

I will say that a longer probe stick out would be nice. It only sticks out an inch so if you need to reach deep, you’ve gotta get creative

[@adrianharrison5208]

I bought a centroid controler for a small cnc I have been building so this was good to see.. really enjyed watching this and only just starting out in cnc myself

[@adamdebowski2037]

Awesome! Glad to hear it. I’m pretty new to CNC, myself. I’ve only been at it a couple years. I started this build almost exactly 2 years ago when covid hit hard.

[@adrianharrison5208]

@@adamdebowski2037 same amount of time as me then but you are a lot further than me :) I have moved twice in the last two years so am stil trying to get going

[@shawnhanifan2500]

Hi Adam, I'm a little late to the party here. I too have a PM30 running Acorn. I have the Centroid KP=3 probe. My question is how exactly you take your measurements from the Probe and accurately place them in you r Fusion model? Dimensions are simple to obtain. Relationships between them are often not. In the video you showed probing a bore, then in the next instant, there are four or five features shown in your cad model. Are you using a mapping routing to obtain this specific orientation data?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Shawn - when probing a bore, centroid will spit out the bore sizes as well as position of the bore’s Center in terms of X & Y coordinates with respect to the work coordinate offset. So in a fusion sketch, I’d place the bores at the appropriate coordinates and at the right size, slowly building the part one feature at a time. Does that make sense? Adam

[@shawnhanifan2500]

Thank you. I never would have thought of using the machine coordinates to populate my fusion sketch dimensions. Thank you!!@@adamdebowski2037

[@adamdebowski2037]

@shawnhanifan2500 glad I could be of some help. Good luck and thanks for watching 👍👍

[@michaelmolter8828]

Why not use a stop block against the mounting plate so you don’t have to rezero every time you take it out of the block? It the rezero op just more accurate?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Both ways would work. If I didn’t have a probe I’d likely use the stop. Using the probe is quick and gives me confidence it’s in the right spot.

[@sabinocenineto]

Im really not trying to be a troll, but countersunk holes on the fixture wouldn't be better for locating the part when screwed down? the allen bolts leave some kinda wiggle room there, don't they? if i'm wrong please let me know why. Awesome job on the replication by the way!

[@adamdebowski2037]

You’d be the kindest troll I’ve run into! The slop in both countersunk and counterbored clearance holes would be enough to throw the part out of alignment by many thousandths. All the screws are only meant to hold the part down. It’s the dowel pins and dowel holes that align the part to within a thousandth of an inch or two. Does that make sense?

[@sabinocenineto]

@@adamdebowski2037 Yes it does! Keep the good work man, awesome content!

[@beachboardfan9544]

What do you do if you have a hole or feature that too small to fit the probe in?

[@adamdebowski2037]

I would use a conical edge finder for location, and a gage pin for size.

[@NERVESxxOFxxSTEEL]

Great work but you kinda didn't explain how you used the probe to model the position of the features into cad.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hey! I think I mention that I measure and model the features one by one in solidworks. There is nothing automatic here. Just good old fashioned measuring and modeling.

[@ajingolk7716]

What about ultrasound scanner i think is called lidar or other scanners

[@adamdebowski2037]

The scanners can be great for making a template in 3D, but you will still have to model the “perfect” shape. You cannot really use cloud point data for machining, but it is great for 3D printing

[@CharlieH_design]

Why do you use the CNC instead of scanning parts to put them in CAD models? Is it more accurate?

[@adamdebowski2037]

It is more accurate and you can’t use the files that the scanner generates for machining. They are fine for 3D printing, but not great for machining.

[@joeking433]

What kind of CNC mill is that and how expensive is it?

[@adamdebowski2037]

I go over everything here: Convert a Bench Mill to CNC - Everything You Need to Know kzbin.info/www/bejne/mH_CdWaEjNyXq5Y

[@chriscooper1691]

That was an amazing video! You should make more content like this

[@mrp19285]

Man you need to get a rotary encoder so you can rigid tap. Also glad to see other people using Centroid.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Would be so nice. I generally thread mill to get around this kind thing. An encoder would make tool and belt changes a little more difficult I think. What machine are you running centroid on?

[@mrp19285]

@@adamdebowski2037 A power draw bar would make tool changes easier.. As for my machines, I have a AXYZ 4004 routerwith a ATC Spindle, I am also finishing up a Emco PC Turn 50 that is also Centroid. and funny enough I was starting a Sieg X2 mini mill build which also has an Acorn but I got the router and that took over.

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@mrp19285 nice! would love to see the ATC.

[@mrp19285]

@@adamdebowski2037 Once you go ATC you never go back.

[@markreiber4457]

I have a 1992 Nissan dually and broke a driveline yoke part ,just a small hand size part, is it possible to make one ?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Mark - hard to say without seeing the part and it’s details

[@rentasticlv5902]

Hey! Very nice and clean work! I would like to build a cnc from such a mill, any links? :)

[@adamdebowski2037]

Cheers! I’ve got a video where I go through my build in details with links/pricing/everything. Check it out if you’re interested!

[@inteous]

What is that touch probe you are using, would you happen to have a link by any chance?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Yes the website is in the video - drewtronics.org

[@inteous]

@@adamdebowski2037 oop my bad should've watched the whole vid haha thank you!

[@belajarbisnisonline9324]

Do You know how the formula of upgrading horsepower? Example of 2jz engine had 320hp but someone build 2jz with 3000hp. Is there any thicker wall of the engine besides of bigger compression and gas supply

[@dirtboy896]

What probe are you using? I know you use acorn obviously but I run mach 4 with a Pokeys57 breakout board on my PM728VT and I see it also has probing features.

[@adamdebowski2037]

It’s the drewtronics probe. Check it out at drewtronics.org

[@dirtboy896]

@@adamdebowski2037 is yours the S5000LED TTS?

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@dirtboy896 yes - exactly - except it has the non-tormach whip because I’m using it w an Acorn. You’ll have to email Drew and he’ll make it for you same price if that’s what you need

[@dirtboy896]

@@adamdebowski2037 oh Ok I thought the TTS meant the style of where the tool holder goes into the spindle. I guess that doesn’t matter anyways. I use mach 4

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@dirtboy896 you are right. When I say “whip” I’m talking about the wiring coming out of the tool holder. There is a tormach connector that drew sells standard w the probe to be used in a tormach machine. If you don’t have a tormach, you don’t need or want that connection.

[@runngunrc1991]

How does one get the basics to start CNC ? How much to make a setup for aluminum an wood ?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Aluminum and wood are usually cut on different machines. CNC routers are primarily used to cut wood, and CNC mills for metals. Some routers will cut aluminum and some mills are suitable for wood. I'll be releasing a video today or tomorrow about my build. The costs for everything are in the video. Stay tuned!

[@runngunrc1991]

@@adamdebowski2037 I subscribed I’m on board. Appreciate you replying an elaborating the difference. I basically want to do what your doing coping aluminum parts. Do have video that covers the basics an terminology? Or any resources would be greatly appreciated.

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@runngunrc1991 Thanks for the sub! There are basically two main things to learn: CAD and CAM. CAD is "Computer Aided Design" and has to do with making parts in 3D on the computer. CAM is "Computer Aided Manufacturing" and has to do with creating the tool paths that will cut your part out of a block of material. To learn how to do both, download a program called "Fusion 360" made by a company called "Autodesk." It's free and is both a CAD and a CAM software. Then get on KZbin and search for Fusion360 tutorials. There are so, so many helpful videos on KZbin and for all this stuff it'll be your biggest resource. Cheers! Adam

[@runngunrc1991]

@@adamdebowski2037 Thank you Fusion360 I’m in .

[@letsgoBrandon204]

Oooh I like nicely made fixtures. Especially when they have notes engraved on them 🤤

[@wagnerdamotta726]

Hi Adan I going to order the probe, where i can get the wire diagram for connections? How difficult for setup the probe? If i have problem do you can help me ? Thank you Wagner Damotta

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Wagner, I'm not sure you'll find a wiring diagram, but it is a very easy setup. I'll try to describe the wiring. Drew will build you a "custom" probe (for the same price) for use with the centroid control that has two leads coming out of the body in the form of a female connector. He will also supply a short "whip" of the two leads terminated at the male connector that plugs into the probe body. You'll plug one lead into the acorn board's "com" terminal, and one into a designated probe terminal on the control board (that you define in the acorn wizard), then define a few other properties in the centroid setup wizard (like the probe being a normally open type) and that's all. The centroid probing routines will work! If you have issues, I can most definitely help trouble shoot any problems. One more thing: I would ask Drew to supply a spare female connector that you can make a bracket for to use as a "holster" for the cable when the probe isn't loaded in the spindle (just for extra "neatness" instead of having a dangling cable somewhere during other machining operations).

[@duncan2006111]

Very good video and I too love using HSM in Solidworks. We have a Haas machine with Renishaw probe and have thought of using it to reverse engineer. What did you do to get the probed surface coordinates into Solidworks?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Anthony. I use probing routines in the control and manually build the part in solidworks as I go, then overlay the photo and trace.

[@ralphparry460]

I have always wanted to be able to do this type of CNC type machining in my home shop but never had the nerve to pull the trigger on purchasing the system. Unsure how long it took you to get good at this? Did you have a machinist background? In any event, very impressed with your abilities and video. Thxs

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Ralph - thanks for the kind words! I have no previous experience as a machinist, and extensive experience with the Solidworks CAD software. Designing parts in 3D was no problem, but learning how to apply toolpaths to the parts was all new to me. I’d say it took me a couple months of using the machine a few times a week to get comfortable with it

[@compassprecision]

Good instructions. Enjoyed watching this video a lot.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Glad to hear it!

[@steveaylor376]

Great video brother !!!

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@steveaylor376 cheers! 🍻

[@lukasmatzinger]

This was a great video, really enjoyed it! I’ve only used manual machining tools so far but now have access to a 4 axis CNC mill (SYIL X7) at my local maker space, so it’s cool to see what can be done with the right skills and setup. 👍 For a part like this, approximately how many hours did the probing and design take, and how much of actual machine running time? I'm going to pay by the minute so it would be great to get a rough idea what a part like this would cost me to make on the CNC. Best regards from Austria! Lukas

[@adamdebowski2037]

Glad you enjoyed it! To probe the critical surfaces took half an hour and modelling the rest took another 30-45 mins or so. I would budget an extra hour or two if it’s your first time maybe. The total cycle time for one of those parts is somewhere around 2.5-3 hrs on my small machine. It’s very cool that you have access to a machine like that. What about tools/endmills? Do you buy your own? What about the time it takes to set the tools up in the machine? Do you pay for that, too? Cheers from Canada! Adam

[@lukasmatzinger]

@@adamdebowski2037 Thanks for the quick reply, good to know! Regarding the maker spacer, they let you use the machine, but you have to bring your own cutting tools. You pay by the minute (about 1 Euro per minute), but only for the time when the spindle actually turns, so setup time is free. They have a bunch of other machines including a 130x90cm metal laser with 1200W so it can do 12mm steel or 4mm aluminum, as well as bigger lasers for wood and other materials. So perfect to compliment my private workshop that doesn't have any €20k+ machines... 😎

[@rhemaislife]

Does 3d scanning work in such cases

[@adamdebowski2037]

It can - but takes some advanced knowledge in 3D modelling. It is not like 3D printing. Scanning and 3D printing is relatively easy.

[@SergeyRyabenko]

Amazing job!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Cheers 🍻🍻

[@wagnerdamotta726]

Hi Adan Thank you for the video, i have a PM25 that i converted to CNC and i used Centroid Acorn, do you please tell me what type probe you use on your machine, 2 wire or the other one for Tormach? Thank you Wagner Damotta

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Wagner - it’s the Tormach probe (it has the 3/4” TTS tool holding shank and shoulder) , but a 2-wire version. You will have to send an email to drew when you order it and he will custom make it for you.

[@wagnerdamotta726]

@@adamdebowski2037 Thank you Adan I will get one, thank you again for the help

[@ThePolymath1]

Really good information. I’m a PE and run SW daily. When you talk about probing your part (~45 sec in) and getting into SW, are you doing this manually reading the mill’s DRO, or are you able to directly input your mesh into a sketch / SW directly? Aloha and thank you.

[@adamdebowski2037]

I’m doing it manually. You can scan the part in a grid pattern (with a resolution of your choosing) with the probe if you buy centroid’s digitizing package and it will generate cloud point data that you can import into SW and stitch into a mesh with the mesh wizard. It ends up looking like an STL file which isn’t suitable for cam/machining in most cases.

[@ThePolymath1]

@@adamdebowski2037 right. I’ve tried some workflows from photogrammetry and pushing that into SW with limited success. So I’m still inputting dims with a set of Calipers or mic… 🤙🏼 thanks again! Keep up the great content.

[@MarioAPN]

Wow man. You are my role model. Subbed.

[@HCG]

How much does someone pay for a job like this, including all of the part copying? Multiple thousands I would hope

[@adamdebowski2037]

A shop would likely charge 3-5K because it’s mostly labour/time. I did it for a friend for $650.

[@jamessheets9205]

Could you make another plate that is located under your fixture in the vice with locating pins? Then you could just use clamps to hold your machining fixture. It would always be located and you wouldn't need to indicate your work piece so may times. I have very little cnc experience but it just seems like a lot of unnecessary time spent indicating parts when a two piece fixture would solve the problem.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Absolutely - if I was making more than just the one part, it would make more sense. Alternately you can also set up a probing routine in CAM that would come in and probe the area for the corner of the fixture plate automatically and set work offsets automatically. We’re talking about saving 2 minutes on a 1.5 hour cycle time, though - or spending an extra few hours designing and machining the extra “sub” fixture plate… and another $40 or so of material.

[@jamessheets9205]

@@adamdebowski2037 Ok, I took it as you were making a small production run and make this part from time to time.

[@dajulster]

When you machine your fixture plate, don’t remove it from the machine: your part is now located. For OP 1, have some excess material in Z and machine the part held in a vise. Then take and flip over onto the fixture plate and machine the other side for OP 2. Saves you an operation and the need to indicate multiple times. Cheers

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@dajulster You've got to remove the fixture plate for access to the bolts from the bottom. Having excess material in Z adds to material cost and machining time (more material to remove after flipping the part). In industry it might be a marginal increase, but with a little mill like mine and a client base that doesn't write blank cheques, I try to squeeze every penny!

[@dajulster]

@@adamdebowski2037 Yeah I was thinking you could reach under to insert the bolts. Appreciate the response, great video.

[@Hackjob-Extraordinaire]

Very impressive

[@dominic6634]

So do you have an engineering background

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Domenic. I do - but I don’t have much of a CAM/machining background directly.

[@dominic6634]

@@adamdebowski2037 lol nice!

[@alexigaitan633]

What would you charge for something similar to this.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Between $700-$1000 depending on fixtures.

[@jaqwantastreeter9319]

Where are you located and can i pay for you to do a part for me.

[@adamdebowski2037]

I’m in Canada. Send some photos of the part to my email. Let’s take a look.

[@kadinhendrickson8968]

Any ideas on a younger dude wanting to get into doing this? What’s your day job that allows you access to this software? I work construction and recently got a job offer that is in the office. The biggest reason I wanted to do it is because I can’t afford spendy software to draw parts up and bring to cnc shops to have made.

[@adamdebowski2037]

I'm an engineer and use solidworks at work often. You can download a free version of Fusion360 if you want to start getting some practice with 3D modelling & CAM. You'll want to start paying the monthly subscritption fee (i forget how much - somehwere between 50-90 dollars monthly) once you're ready to start making parts on a cnc machine. It's not 100% necessary, but Autodesk limits the feeds and speeds which makes machining very slow.

[@kadinhendrickson8968]

@@adamdebowski2037 Awesome. Thanks!👍🏼

[@makosharkcnc7730]

Question solidworks 10. Or. Fusion 360. ? Edit 3d model and copy part like you did here

[@adamdebowski2037]

I use Solidworks 2021. I'm not 100% clear on your question - what do you mean?

[@Benjamin-xv2hg]

NCY CNC has a company called proven cut. Actual real world speeds and feeds with different types of machines, tools, and materials.

[@DR.ELEKTRIK]

You earned my subscription!

[@m3chanist]

Adam are the parts you are reverse engineering old out of production automotive stuff?or just anything at all really? That part is a piece of a gearbox housing?

[@adamdebowski2037]

You got it. Old out of production automotive parts. This part’s off an old Honda

[@Ragnar.Lothbrok.3.14]

How did you get your measurements from the probe to solidworks?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Ragnar. One at a time - measure, draw. Measure, draw. Measure, draw.

[@Ragnar.Lothbrok.3.14]

@@adamdebowski2037 That sounds pretty time consuming.

[@PatrickHoodDaniel]

Nice!

[@Know-Way]

Excellent work! What is that part for? what does it do? Sub'd!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi Know Way - thanks! It’s a part of an old car. Not sure exactly what but the customer had spent years looking for a replacement without any luck. So we had to make something. Cheers! Adam

[@miniproto4721]

Great I have a similar machine will try to do something like it.

[@garciaglenb]

I use to sneak parts into the lab and use an optical comparator 😬

[@adamdebowski2037]

Haven’t seen one of those machines in years. So cool, simple, and practical/useful.

[@7alfatech860]

Fantastic! Please keep posting great videos like this.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thank you! Will do!

[@colinlock-lv9vv]

very nice well done

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@MakeTechPtyLtd]

Nice balance between pace and detail in this video. Thanks for sharing your workflow. How repeatable is the probe on X,Y ? I've just finished working in a macro that does multiple probe strikes and averages them to get a less than 1 step accuracy repeatedly.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thanks! Repeatability is well inside a thousandth in x,y, and z. Accuracy is around a thousandth.

[@MakeTechPtyLtd]

@@adamdebowski2037 ok thats pretty good. My machine has 0.0125mm steps or 1/2 thousandth and I'm getting less than half a step error in repeatability. I've been trying to line up a bore when flipping a part.

[@p.t.anderson1593]

OMG - Firetrucking awesome! I am an out of work machinist and disabled veteran. I would really like to know more about how you made your PM-30 work with CNC (I'm wondering if there is a ball screw kit for it). I already use Fusion 360 for my plasma cutter and I've done 3D in the past. My goal is to have a small fab shop at home so I can make a little income, anything would help. What you have there looks like it's in my reach and it would put me light years ahead if I could mostly replicate it here. That edge probe is the cats pajamas... The ones we had at my last job were so expensive that I rarely got to use one, good old dial indicator and the classic edge finders for most of us in that shop. You got my sub today. Thank you so much!

[@adamdebowski2037]

Hi PT Anderson! Respect for your service 🙌🙌 there is a ball screw kit for the PM30. There is one made by a company called “pro cut cnc” (I think), and one by a guy on KZbin (David Clements - KZbin username: Arizonavideo99). I have Dave’s kit and can confirm he does a great job getting out almost all the backlash. Yes - this probe is amazing. It’s good to about a thousandth which is plenty good for this mill. The “real” probes by Renishaw and much better, you pay for it, and would be overkill for a machine like this. The machine itself isn’t anywhere close to that accurate. I used an edge finder for almost two years before getting this probe. I would say a decent edge finder is about as accurate as this probe, and can do almost all the same things with more calculation on your part. The probe is mostly a luxury, and I love it! Cheers 🍻

[@p.t.anderson1593]

@@adamdebowski2037 That edge probe seems to be worth it just in speed, repeatability and ease of use. I plan on getting one when I can. Thanks for the info! I would love to see a video tour of the upgrades to your PM-30 when you get a chance.

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@p.t.anderson1593 my thoughts exactly. At this price point, the extra luxury is not too hard to justify. Drew also makes a tool setter for closer to $500USD, which I do want but is a harder pill to swallow - especially when paying for customs and in Canadian pesos. I’ve been meaning to make a little PM30 upgrades video. Will try to get around to it soon!

[@stuartbellerby6738]

This looks like a great machine, really nicely converted. What size steppers does it have? What is the spindle power? Currently looking into buying a CNC mill of some description.

[@prof_proninolegpronin8176]

Thanks a lot for sharing and explaining!

[@constantinosschinas4503]

12:15 no precision needed on the central hole? Ie. a boring bar, since you re-zeroed.

[@adamdebowski2037]

Initially had the same thought and was told 0.005” would be plenty accurate for the centre bore.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

@@adamdebowski2037 Fair enough! Worries more about roundness because usually CNC makes oval-ish holes. Nice workflow video. Great for beginners that want to take a grasp of the whole procedure and then dig into specific tutorials and details.

[@benjaminmui7814]

Did you have to pay for additional software to use the probe with centroid acorn/cnc12?

[@adamdebowski2037]

No. The probe works with the standard package. There is a digitizing package you can buy for an additional $300USD (I think) which will scan the part with the probe and generate “cloud point data” (I don’t have this package). You can do digitizing with the package I currently have but you are limited to 2500 cloud points. Sounds like a lot but it isn’t.

[@RussHarris100]

@@adamdebowski2037 Do You have mill pro?

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@RussHarris100 I do not. Is that a CAM package? I am using HSMWorks.

[@RussHarris100]

@@adamdebowski2037 No, I'm talking about the level of CNC12 software to run the Acorn. They have the Free, Pro, and Digitizing levels. I have the free, but it looks different than yours. I just ordered the "pro" upgrade.

[@adamdebowski2037]

@@RussHarris100 I'm using the pro, too.

[@nicks2261]

what are you using for coolant?

[@Ddk90]

Siema Adam! Super video i super jakosc czesci ktore wytwarzasz. Jesli moge cos zasugerowac to na samym koncu zawsze wycinaj fazki gdy wszystkie profile czesci masz wyciete. W ten sposob nie bedziesz musial uzywac tego samego narzedzia kilka razy w trakcie jednej operacji. Nastepna rzecz to najpierw spot drill, potem drill, potem chamfer hole. Jesli najpierw wytniesz fazke a potem dopiero bedziesz wiercic otwor to roznica w kacie miedzy wiertlem a fazka moze spowodowac ze wiertlo nie bedzie wycinac prosto tylko zacznie “uciekac” na bok. Mam nadzieje ze napisalem zrozumiale i jeszcze raz pozdrawiam!! Leci subik!! 👍👍👍👍

[@adamdebowski2037]

Cześć Ddk90! Dziękuję za zwrotną informację. Masz rację - używam niewłaściwego narzędzia do nawiercania - powinienem użyć takiego z większym kątem niż wiertło, ale nie mam innego uchwytu. Bardzo dobrze wyjaśniłeś swoją wiadomość. Do napisania tego używam tłumacza - więc mam nadzieję, że ta odpowiedź ma sens. Dzięki za subskrypcję - cieszę się, że Polakom spodobała się zawartość.

[@Poberrrr]

Cześć Adam, jakich narzędzi używałeś do planowania powierzchni i adaptive clearingu + wykończenia frezem walcowo-czołowym?

[@adamdebowski2037]

Cześć Marius - Do planowania użyłem "tormach superfly" (tormach.com/tts-superfly-cutter-kit-33031.html) i wszystkie frezy wykańczające to 3 frezy do aluminium. Używam tych, ale możesz użyć innych: deboertool.com/v/products/a-mill/a-mill-semi-finisher. Cieszę się, że w tej społeczności jest tak wielu Polaków. Jestem urodzonym w Kanadzie Polakiem i przepraszam za mój zły polski!

[@WtR_]

Amazing video! This is fantastic content!

[@Chris-bg8mk]

Great work for a hobbyist, or a pro for that matter. Instant like and sub! What’s it for? Looks to me like a suspension component of some sort….

[@connerjohnson61]

Earned my follow, great work

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thank you - glad you enjoyed it!

[@MrRctintin]

lovely, nice job mate

[@wesco123]

Tremendous work 👌

[@adamdebowski2037]

Thanks a lot 😊