How I Do a Complete Trigger Job on a 1911

[@kevingarrison9386]

You can use a punch on the trigger bows edge to displace metal to reduce play in the trigger. Support it from inside the bow.

[@EngineersArmory]

Thats a good idea. Hadn't thought of that. Thats a delicate operation - I have bent trigger bows and ruined them before haha. I only recently saw that Brownell's offers a trigger bow stirrup die.

[@DesertTactical]

Definitely saving this video!

[@lordtachanka903]

Amazing video, you definitely got a new subscriber today. Btw, has anyone ever told you that your voice sounds like the “fitness gram pacer test” guy? Keep up the great work though, at this rate you’ll have a million subscribers in no time!🔥

[@EngineersArmory]

Haha never been told I have the fitnessgram pacer test guy voice. That's a new one. Thank for watching, commenting and subscribing! I appreciate it.

[@kodikun]

Love these videos. Watching them all just because of general interest, but saving them in case I need them later. Still can't decide if I'm getting an apollo 11 or just getting a bul armory the next time theyre available

[@aparrish47]

Keep up the good work and great explanation on everything.

[@tacticoolkid4957]

When you mentioned cracking a la croix and going into gun zen mode I had to sub to my brother from another mother lol

[@creyes879]

Bro, loving all the vids. Keep it up.

[@Riley_1955]

Very nice vid ..... I do most of these already but I seen a few more I will now be doing in the future.

[@seanhudson7549]

Awesome detailed description! Super helpful for my venture into the Single Stack realm. Where do you get your polishing stones and what kind are they?

[@ghostrider532]

I don’t know if you have one or not but I picked up a trigger track stone from Brownells to stone the track in the frame the trigger slides in. Great video, I’ve picked up a lot of knowledge from it.

[@EngineersArmory]

Glad to hear it!

[@StagArmslower]

Sir, what power hammer spring you are usually installing?

[@EngineersArmory]

For the vast majority of my trigger jobs (~2.75# - 4.25# break weight), I install a 17# main spring.

[@rman713]

Excellent video! Could you give links (or just names) of the stones and jigs you use?

[@EngineersArmory]

Jig sucks. Dont buy it. I had to the machine mine for proper hole spacing. I got India stones and knife sharpening stones from amazon. The fine ceramic stone was from brownells.

[@keithrange4457]

Beautiful! 😎

[@VegasVaron]

If you’re ever in town for Shot Show e.g. I would happily take your class (side gig?) on how to fully disassemble and reassemble 1911/2011 for a thorough cleaning. Nothing fancy. 🙂

[@EngineersArmory]

This might be of interest: kzbin.info/www/bejne/laG9Za14j6ahfKssi=gqAdlnX5C7ZQxdYX

[@VegasVaron]

@ Thank you.

[@chuckhole78]

Do you do this for other people? I just bought a 2011 and want a trigger job

[@EngineersArmory]

No sorry I just do this for fun.

[@customcutter100]

Thanks for the video. Plan on doing several of my 1911's and Mac 9 when we get home. I should be able to make a "jig" for checking engagement, but might need to buy one from Brownells for actually profiling. Still on the fence about ordering the DS carry for $539. LOL

[@EngineersArmory]

Too many fun projects!

[@Ballistikpapa]

Superb sir.

[@BLACKWOLF-1911]

Can I ask you about those grips. I've looked on Wilson's website and they don't have them for sale. Something you modified yourself?

[@EngineersArmory]

These are the exact ones I bought and what you see in the video. wilsoncombat.com/grips-1911-full-size-aggressive-starburst-g10-black-beveled-bottom.html

[@johnfoat8496]

the most important adjustment is to the sear spring...

[@EngineersArmory]

That is a very important part of it that contributes to proper disconnector and trigger reset function, as well as break weight and proper sear engagement. Adequate seat engagement (from a safety standpoint) is also affected by sear and hammer hook geometry, the angle of the primary face to the hammer hooks, engagement depth, and contact pressure from the mainspring.

[@Bryan-1980]

I keep sending your videos to another KZbinr called GHG Hustle because he’s been having bad luck with his budget 2011’s and I keep telling him, it’s not a Glock son! 😅 a 1911/2011 is a fine tuned machine, not just a chunk of plastic that’ll make bullets go bang. I hope he can learn from your videos and start messing with his guns himself instead of selling them or trading them for different guns

[@EngineersArmory]

1911s are a different animal for sure. If you're used to Glocks or other Lego guns you may be in for a rude awakening when you start working on one of these. I remember when I first started working on 1911s it was so damn frustrating because I didn't know what was going on, I didn't understand the mechanics of the pistol, or how the components affect the system. The 1911 is this video was my first 1911 and i have been tinkering on it for 10 years. Its taken that long for me to feel really comfortable with this platform. However, every time I work on one of these I learn something new or learn a better way to do something. I'm going back thru this pistol right now because the trigger job I did last - about 5 years ago... was kind of shit. I can do it better now. In another 5 years i'll probably do it even better haha.

[@mattblack133]

​@@EngineersArmoryWhat do you mean the trigger job only lasts for so long? What starts to happen? Thx!

[@EngineersArmory]

@@mattblack133 every time the trigger is pulled and the hammer is released, the sear and hammer faces slide across eachother. There will be a certain amount of wear of these surfaces due to this. its very slow, and high quality sears and hammers are very hard, so the wear is... essentially none. especially if you polish them nicely. However when you get into crazy light triggers with very little sear and hammer engagement, or have sears and hammers that are slightly softer (lower quality), they may wear quicker. The faces will wear, sharp edges will get rounded off, and this can change how the trigger functions. Usually as a trigger job "wears" it will become less safe, meaning the engagement of the sear to hammer deminishes to the point where the hammer is likely to slip off the sear. The more exteme the trigger job (super light trigger with very little creep), and the softer the metal of the sear and hammer, the more likely they trigger job is to "wear" or "not last as long." hope that makes sense.

[@mattblack133]

@EngineersArmory Ahhh... great answer bro. I totally understand now. Great work on the videos, I learned a lot from them. Thank you. I actually just did a complete tear down of my tisas 1911 ds. I watched your tear down video and bought the appropriate supplies. The only thing I'm not going to mess with really is the hammer and sear engagement. Maybe a quick light polish... light light. 👍I appreciate the detailed reply.

[@EngineersArmory]

@@mattblack133 Hell yeah. Hope you have seen my polishing video and my one about quick ways to lower the trigger weight. I am glad the videos are helpful! Ssounds like you got a good plan. A little time and elbow grease will greatly improve that gun for you.

[@Paul_Whaley]

Great video! Loving the intro, don't think I said that on the last video. Is this your Kimber, or one belonging to a friend? I don't think I've seen this one make an appearance on the channel yet.

[@EngineersArmory]

This is my Kimber. I'll make a video about it soon. Its very near and dear to me. The second pistol I ever bought when i was 21 or 22. My first 1911. I learned to tinker on 1911s with this gun. Its from 1998 when Kimber was made in Oregon. Its nothing special but Its a solid old 1911.

[@Paul_Whaley]

@@EngineersArmory Interesting! I'm looking forward to whatever video you do on it! Was it a gun that shipped with a Swartz safety? My first 1911 was an RIA gun that I bought as my highschool graduation gift to myself. I tinkered on that thing a fair bit, but ended up ditching it at some point in college. No regrets, but it was a good place to learn. Now it's all ancient Colts and modern Turkish 1911s for me, hahaha. As always, I appreciate your videos, and your info. I published that video on my modified G17 Gen 2 today, and I look forward to your G34 project too!

[@EngineersArmory]

@@Paul_Whaley Standard 70 series internals on this one. What a dichotomy in your 1911 preferences hahaha😂😂

[@Paul_Whaley]

@@EngineersArmory It took me years and years to realize it, lol. From cheap Turkish guns up to a Wilson EDC X9 that I tested for our website, it took me a while to find what I like. What I like is the arched mainspring housing. I'm ready to be crucified now.

[@EngineersArmory]

@@Paul_Whaley You like what you like buddy. Thats no ones business but yours! it seems like you have come by your preferences honestly as weird as they may be hahahah

[@TehBr0]

Cheers for the video.

[@IsaacGuerrero-j2k]

What pushes the trigger back to reset because my trigger is not crisply resetting Everytime

[@EngineersArmory]

The middle tang of the sear spring.

[@IsaacGuerrero-j2k]

@EngineersArmory what's the fix to it ?

[@IsaacGuerrero-j2k]

@@EngineersArmory thank you for the speedy reply btw

[@EngineersArmory]

@IsaacGuerrero-j2k bend that middle tang forward more.

[@IsaacGuerrero-j2k]

@@EngineersArmory thank you also I have a rock island kit and the safety selector switch isnt functional could it possibly be that it's a government parts kit and the frame is a commander frame

[@edwardsray7]

what grease are you using on the main spring housing?

[@EngineersArmory]

Tetra gun grease. One of the many out there that will work fine.

[@hopewilliams6705]

Hey I know you fiddle with different platforms like i do . Have you ever had a glock optic get battered by the outgoing casings ? If so would a good start be the ejector? I changed the extractor to a shadow system and really didn't do much. I have an sro style optic so it sits further forwards.

[@EngineersArmory]

It may be unavoidable with a forward sitting optic shroud, but here are some things to try. I had a similar issue on my Sig P320 M18. Check out this video. I go into detail about what fixed it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJK2mqGNh99og5I Likely you can make slight modifications to the ejector face and get it fixed. Here are some detailed photos of the modifications: www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1brnix8/p320_ejector_mods/ Your recoil spring weight may be too heavy as well. Higher slide velocity (with a lighter recoil spring) will eject casings with more gusto and get them out of the way of your optic. Check that an optic mounting screw is not binding up your extractor spring and plunger as well. Hope this helps. let me know what fixed it if you get it remedied!

[@hopewilliams6705]

@@EngineersArmory thank you I know it is not too long of an optic screw. And I will!

[@hopewilliams6705]

Oh yeah

[@pete-mz9vr]

Not bad

[@garygates5679]

. A W E S O M E V I D E O . . . .! ! ! ! ! GOD BLESS YOU AND THANK YOU FOR THIS GREAT VIDEO ... !!!!!!!! ABSOLUTELY THE BEST TRIGGER JOB VIDEO ... !!!