How I made A Free-moN Module - Design - DaBob's ManCave

[@ns737]

it was nice seeing it at the show

[@joep4235]

Bob got skills !!!! awesome ! 🙂

[@HumancityJunction]

Hello Bob the Builder!! I was really glad to see your module in person at Amherst. It looks much bigger in person than on my iPhone screen.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Builder Bob!

[@davebnsfnscale4433]

Nice plan,on to the execution,..Interested to see how you connected all those sections

[@DaBobsNScaleMancave]

Putting the framework together is kind of unique, or not, but it works. There will be at least 7 videos in this series.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Bob The Builder!:):):)

[@HumancityJunction]

I did not realize this was going to be a math test. Will there be a test after?

[@DaBobsNScaleMancave]

There is a performance test that is done on your own time line, if you make it look correct and at the right radius, you pass. The answer to the test is in the next video, benchwork. There will be at least 7 videos in this series.

[@mapexmac]

Baltic Birch plywood is the best available plywood for the critical faceplates, NOT poplar or maple ply. Baltic Birch is expensive, but the end plates (or "Faceplates") are the MOST CRITICAL parts of a module's framework; don't cheap out and use anything less than the finest Baltic Birch Ply. 12-inch deep modules are the minimum depth, more common is 16-18" deep. Rare is it to find a module which is deeper than 24 inches - there are exceptions but those are very rare. Your explanations with math and geometry equations seems extremely daunting and intimidating to a first-time module builder. In fact, you've made it seem so ridiculously complex that most first-timers would likely move on to another standard. As wonderful as your module (trestle) example is, it's a poor example to show a first time builder. First time Freelance Modular builders ought to be encouraged to start with a module which is simple, manageable straight section with decent scenery and set for themselves goals which are attainable.

[@DaBobsNScaleMancave]

Thanks for the advice on the wood choice, I just didn't feel like spending $100 on one 4x8 sheet of plywood. This build is how I made it and not necessarily how first timers should or could build theirs. I figured for my first one it should not be a plain Jane boring module that doesn't inspire somebody else's creativity when they see it. Go big or go home. I am currently building two transition modules that are a more normal shape, rectangle with no angles on the faceplates, single to double track. I am about to make a how to video on building a simple section/module. I was just at Amhurst with the Free-moN group and there were a few modules that were wider than 24". This is why I say there isn't a max width because there isn't one defined in the standard as such. The only limitation is in how it is transported from place to place, does it fit in the back seat or in a semi trailer, it is up to the builder. I agree that anywhere in between 12" and 24" is usually the standard width. That is the appeal of Free-mo, freedom to make something that makes you happy and is functional. I am just trying to raise the bar of my own skills and give those that look at it or operate on it joy. Not an expert, yet.

[@mapexmac]

@@DaBobsNScaleMancave You'll spend how much on a locomotive, but won't invest in the best wood available, for a module which will ostensibly last over a decade of use? Use to include a multitude of setups, movements, storage, and transportation stresses? Seems like a penny-wise pound foolish strategy to me... But to each his own.