How I made my jig saw cut a LOT better

[@StumpyNubs]

▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ -Trend Stealth respirator: amzn.to/3vyuKfS *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@johnj.8522]

This was awesome, thanks again!

[@mike8171]

Just bought one on sale for < $10. Thank you Stumpy Nubs, Once Again!!! You are the best!

[@StumpyNubs]

@@mike8171 Yes, they are on sale!

[@opendstudio7141]

I was thinking just the other day about your brilliantly composed first (2008?) entry into the Rocklers Nordys Contest and how funny that rapping tribute to Roy Underhill was. Went to looking for it and it appears to be either a victim of time, lost or made proprietary because of Rappin Roy.

[@lourias]

Thank you for giving good definitions to prevent confusion now and in the future.

[@observersnt]

Straight forward, common sense, clear speech, no background music, no one trying to be a comedian, excellent quality recording. Yet another high standard video. Thank you

[@markproulx1472]

No kidding. It’s hard to believe that this was allowed on KZbin.

[@joec-hd6dc]

Could not agree more with your comment!!! Well said friend 👍.

[@RoshDroz]

@@markproulx1472that's how the nubs does it. He used to do comedy in the old days, when that was more appropriate for that iteration of the KZbin landscape. But nowadays, very little time wasted with any of his videos

[@antoniolopes8776]

«On your lap while you work...» This man kills me. His humor is so subtle and intelligent that he could moonshine as a standup comedian. (I say this as a respectful compliment)

[@jonkirkwood469]

Moonshining is a way to make new and interesting friends.

[@Regular_Person_]

Well, as he says, this channel started up as a comedy channel

[@kevola5739]

Moonlight

[@martintheron1386]

You shouldn't hold it on your lap while you work - that is what I heard

[@antoniolopes8776]

@@martintheron1386 You heard well, I heard well, James was being ironical and everybody laughed.

[@timrichards1962]

Good video. I grew up calling it a saber saw. A good friend with a Ryobi brand saw was a master of the plunge cut you demonstrated. I finally dubbed him Obi Wan Ryobi in honor of his Jedi like saber skills 😁

[@ohgary]

My late wife always called it a saber-tooth saw. Maybe it was humor, maybe her upbringing in New England. (They talk funny up there.)

[@kevingeaney7741]

This old-timer just learned a whole bunch! Thanks for clear talk and NO music! 😂

[@DiHandley]

After all these years being on KZbin you still manage to come up with topical and helpful advice to all woodworkers from beginners to pros. Thanks!

[@manuelsousa5507]

I'm 74 with 50+ years in woodworking and I always learn something when watching these videos

[@gfotinakes316]

I have used jig saws for over 60 years. You did a great job covering all aspects of its use and safety. Well done!

[@curiouscharacter1]

To me this is the most useful video ever. Been using a jig saw for over 50 years and hadn't ever thought about half of what you covered. I learned so much (at my age I hope I can remember it!) At least 30 minutes worth of information in 12 minutes. I think the fact that you get right to business, don't go off on tangents or concentrate on useless wordiness explains your popularity within the woodworking community Thanks!

[@davepoidvin2364]

Stumpy, great video. I have been shopping for a jigsaw and like many of us, youtube to the rescue. I watched all sorts of videos for specific models or comparison videos. But this video helped me take the leap of faith. I bought this exact jigsaw. In another video, you listed in the description below as the WEN as your favourite jigsaw, but yet, in this video, you are using this barrel grip model from Ridgid. So thank you for helping me make a choice and I doubt I will regret my choice. Dave & The Girls

[@StumpyNubs]

I am not sure why that WEN link is under "favorites". It's a relatively decent BUDGET option, but certainly not the best saw overall.

[@jos6415]

I received a jigsaw (Craftsman) for my birthday as a child as i already enjoyed woodworking. I used it safely for years before I started to accumulate more tools. Light, versatile, inexpensive, easy to control it was the perfect gift for a young enthusiast.

[@ajsiemers]

My dad was a carpenter and he taught me power tools and safety around them. Most tricks I've seen at some point in my life, though I've kinda forgotten many, so these refreshments are always nice. The trick with the sandpaper is new to me and I will definitely use that one!

[@RAkers-tu1ey]

Just outstanding. I never thought of the sandpaper trick in 55 years of using a sabre saw. I have cut a supported piece from underneath to follow a line closely, and leave a really clean surface without tear out (speaker grills in finished cabinets and desks). I don't actually recommend it without a LOT of practice. Variable speed Bosch with orbital stroke and hollow ground blades.

[@FortyHurts]

Oh, that sandpaper tip is gold, thanks!

[@JohnnyBravo1977]

if Frank Howarth is the guru of the youtube woodworkers, you sure are the teacher of experience that we all need

[@michaeloconnor7849]

I just learned more in 12 minutes than I picked up in the last 20 years. Thanks a lot.

[@carlcox7332]

Just a quick tip on the tilt feature that you mentioned at the end. This is a great feature if your doing finish work. If you need a precise scribe to an uneven floor or you have to scribe some type of moulding or panels to a wavy wall or ceiling, you can slightly back bevel your cut close to your scribe line and finish off with a plane or sander or even a grinder with sandpaper wheel. It won't be visible in the finished product but it gives you way less material to remove when you find tune the fit. The end result will give you a super tight clean scribe.

[@iancampbell9353]

I've been using the diablo up and down cut blades on laminate tops for the last year and a half or so and been happy with the results

[@edhalson3154]

As normal I learnt more from this 12 minute video than all of the hands on use over my years of working with these tools! Thanks yet again James. Gold standard yet again!

[@zoltantapai3716]

One thing that was not mentioned is that sometimes in cheap saws the blade's side and the edge of the base of the saw might not be parallel with each other. This rarely causes issues if you cut free hand but as soon as you try to use a straight edge to follow, the sawblade will keep either turning away from your cut line or bending towards it, making some very frustratingly inaccurate cuts. I attached a piece of plywood to the base of mine with parallel edges to the blade to fix this as there does not seem to be any options to change the sawblade's direction on the saw itself.

[@eloscuro704]

I used jigsaws a lot more when I was a kid, mainly because I had access to one. By far the biggest project I used it for was to cut the transition for a half-pipe I was making. Using 4x8s for the sides, I started with the vertical section, curving slowly into the transition. When I hit the other size of the 4x8, I used the waste to finish the transition at the bottom. Nailed lots of 2x4s between the transition pieces, then thin plywood nailed to the 2x4's for the ramp itself. Skated it for years.

[@devonwainstein9188]

Also what I did as a kid. Same saw, same ramp man

[@richadent968]

My first power tool was a drill. The second was a jig saw. Used it for everything from Sheet goods to 4x4s. Love the versatility of a jig saw.

[@alfredomarquez9777]

And you can use a jigsaw for A LOT of different materials as there is a huge assortment of specialized blades, for different metals, plastics and even tile cutting or soft but tricky materials like rubber or leather. In my experience, more than 90% of the cut in many different materials can be done with Bosch jigsaw blades, which are top quality (Swiss made, even METABO goes to Bosch in order to rebrand them in their colors!). I have used a few other brands for some jobs, like the longer blades that I use when attachirng my jigsaw under the bench, which necessitates a considerably longer blade, in which case I have used "Wilpu" brand long blades, and support their end with small router bit bearings to eliminate deflection and vibration.

[@chrisgraham2904]

Worth mentioning that, of all the power saws available, the jigsaw remains one of the safest and easiest to handle. This makes the jigsaw an excellent choice for kids learning to create their first wood projects and for the ladies that may feel some intimidation from power tools.

[@bobp3738]

I used a Craftsman Sabre saw (old school) for years as it was the first power tool I ever bought. I’d often use my dad’s drill and circular saw but he liked and used my Sabre (AKA jig) saw. It cut through many wooden boards and other materials until it finally gave up the ghost - the shaft broke after about 40 years. Good memories with that tool! Also, thanks for the terrific video and lessons.

[@anthonyflaherty456]

The sandpaper attached to the blade for cleaning out internal cuts is something ive never seen, brilliant idea

[@katiedotson704]

As I watched the Sawdust Guru's do wonderful things with a jig saw that I could never manage to match with my very outdated jigsaw, I have often wondered if I should get a more modern model.. Now I realize that it's probably the outdated owner that's the problem. I'm not sure if I am as grateful for this video as I should be. Stumpy, you just saved me some money but now I can't justify another new tool.

[@TJF8]

Very helpful video. I'm a DIYer in a city with a small portable work bench. No room for power tools except a jig saw. I always enjoy your videos, but this was the first one tailored to my situation. Thanks

[@eftaolw]

This was an exceptionally helpful video! In the past, I have rarely used my jigsaw because it has seemed problematic. After watching your video, however, it is apparent that the problem has been an operator error on my part. I will use the skills learned from your video to make better use of my jigsaw. Thanks for contributing your content.

[@jamiedoll9338]

Still using the 35-40 yr old Makita jigsaw we bought new. The $10 B&D saw immediately got relegated to pumpkin carving duty.... thanks. Love your videos!

[@Marialla.]

I flippin' LOVE watching your videos! Your explanations are so clear and concise that you are an absolute joy to listen to! I'm only incidentally interested in woodworking, and I live in an apartment with no facilities to do much of this. But a teacher who knows and loves their craft is always a pleasure to see.

[@PikkaBird]

One tip I don't think I've ever seen in any jigsaw video is that when you're cutting at an angle to the grain (that is, not parallel nor perpendicular) then it's really useful to plan ahead so you're cutting "downhill". When yo do a cut like that you'll see the grain on one side of the blade hardly tears out at all and the other side gets obliterated. So make sure to plan the cut so you're cutting "out of the grain" on the workpiece and "into the grain" on the waste side. You may need to make the cut in several steps if your cut is a curve that starts going the other way, so just come in from the other side. Did that make sense?

[@randypittman279]

This is a great tip, and it does make a lot of sense.

[@jazzdad52]

I agree, excellent point about “cutting downhill” I learned about this as a turner, but for those who don’t know, the “uphill/downhill” part can be confusing. The way I learned to explain it is, (easier with a picture) hold your right hand in front of you, 4 fingers pointing to your left. Your fingers represent the wood fibers running horizontally. Imagine your pointer finger on your left hand is the cutting tool, and you’re going to shave off the tips of your fingers. You are going to cut diagonally from the tip of the lowest finger, to the base of the top finger. If you start from under it, after you “cut” the first finger tip, going upwards to the right, each finger pulls away from previous finger, fanning out the fibers, and the last fiber pushes away, and tears out. If you cut from the top right diagonally downward from the base of the first, to the tip of the last, each fiber is supported by the next uncut fiber, pressing them together, instead of pulling them apart. The top of the cut will be near perfect, with minimum tear out on the bottom. Of course, when turning a spindle, or a bowl, the bottom of the cut usually doesn’t exit the wood, so there’s nothing to tear out, and the whole cut will be much smoother than if you start from the “bottom” of the cut. This is so much easier to explain with pictures!

[@ts109]

Excellent tip PikkaBird

[@alexandersangster7137]

To clarify down hill is up the tree right

[@alexandersangster7137]

Always cut “uptree”

[@Peter-pf6bz]

Watch you videos as soon as they show up on youtube, they are great. I really like the no nonsense approach you employ. Showing how to re-align the blade to 90 degrees after you did the bevel cut would have been a good idea. Apart from that 10 out of 10 Excellent.

[@bootlebeats6331]

Because of this video, I'll give my jig saw another go instead of keeping it in storage. Thanks for these tips.

[@dy9955]

I swear you have microphones in my shop. I was just complaining out loud to myself about how I hate using a jigsaw because of several of the reasons you talked about. Now I know how to fix them.

[@tonyn3123]

It always benefits to purchase a QUALITY blade. There is a lot of difference in cut quality by buying a really good blade. Took me a while to figure this one out, but I learned quickly when I bought a more expensive blade, it made a significant difference in cut quality and speed of cut. It also made quite a bit of difference in deflection of the blade during a cut. This helped keep cuts square to the workpiece. Good video.

[@RCake]

Oh yes, fully agree. It is basically the same thing like the classic advice for using sandpaper: change it / use it as if someone else were paying for it.

[@bobrees4363]

One feature of older jigsaws from the 1960's or so was the turnable shaft. Usually with a big square knob on the top. It made for easy to cut tight radii. I don't use one often enough to look to see if it is even available anymore.

[@bunnywarren]

If the blade is angled, remember the effective thickness of the wood being cut is increased and this must be taken into consideration when picking the tool/blade/speed used.

[@suecollins3246]

You speak so clearly and explain things so well.

[@thomlipiczky9021]

Although you downplayed the usefulness of angling the jig saw blade, when you're scribing a piece of trim to an irregular surface, backcutting the line by angling say 15 degrees can give a nice tight fit, easy to tweak where needed. Another great video, James. Thanks!

[@kingOFgEEEks]

Or when you are installing trim, you can use the jigsaw as a coping saw - even if you just get the cope roughed in, then fine-tune with a handheld coping saw.

[@worstworkshop]

Great video! Something I don't think you mentioned is that because you can change the blade so quickly, it's often the best tool for a single cut. There have been many times when I needed to cut a piece of metal, and didn't want to change the blade in something else, so the jigsaw came to the rescue.

[@thecarl168]

the idea of sandpaper over the blade is brilliant !

[@danvalleskey]

My first power tool. A b.d. present when I was 13 or 14. Still pull one out every once in a while, there are some times you just need a jig saw. Now that I think about it, I wish I'd kept that old B&D. Built a number of tool totes, and bird houses with it!

[@williamt4749]

Adhesive sandpaper on the blade... Jaw litterally on the floor. This would have saved me about 1 year of my life spent filing. Cant believe I never thought of this but THANK YOU for the tip!

[@mickyork41]

Sand paper power file idea is genius. That’s the one I’d never thought of. For straight cuts I always use a large speed square, or where necessary a longer straight edge of any sort, as a fence. Since I started doing this I have hardly used my circular saw. I have recently bought a used Dewalt 745 table saw though so that might replace both in a lot of applications.

[@mcorrade]

I hate using a jig saw. It's always a pain in the arse until, I finally broke down and bought a good one. That does make a difference

[@normansidey5258]

Worth watching just for the sandpaper tip alone, thanks. Greetings from 🇬🇧 UK

[@NPC2_4_U]

I love reverse tooth it's really important to push downward as you guide the tool.

[@danalaniz7314]

Great tutorial. Everything you showed and reinforced are so important. The biggest related lesson I have learned from you over the past year is to let the tool do the work and don't force it. Thank you.

[@NiallOCallaghan]

This is the most comprehensive jigsaw tip video I've seen. Well done. Pushing too hard is definitely something I need to work on - I always get deflection!

[@jimanderson4495]

Thanks James. Another very handy tip for a tool most of us use very little.

[@michaelmarchione3408]

I've have owned different Jig Saws for over 50 years. You did a great job covering the proper use. I keep my scroll saw table waxed as well as other metal surfaces to stop friction. But I never thought to wax the jig saw plate. Picking out the right blade for the cut can be confusing for some I'm sure. Cutting is always easier with the right style blade. Thanks for sharing that tip! I have watched a few of your older shows, I've enjoyed them. Take care!

[@profcah]

Great tutorial for the sabre saw (yep, I’m an old timer). The bit about choosing the correct TPI was great and now I know when to use a reverse tooth blade! Keep these coming!!!

[@michaelmcdermott2178]

What George Fortinakes said! Lots of good reminders here, even for us old fogies

[@ildefonsogiron4034]

Wow! This has been a practice first/theory last approach to jig saws, since I've been using them for ages. Thanks James!

[@johnsmall9729]

Thanks a lot Stumpy. I liked the tip about pivoting on the front of the blade. Cheers.

[@irakopilow9223]

This had to be THE best information exchange on the (lowly) jig saw I have ever seen. Hazzah!

[@robertkovacic4623]

Makita BR-13 is my favorite jigsaw blade. Fine enough, fast enough, and no tearing out...kind of a "universal wood saw blade"😃👍

[@loki7441]

Yes like everybody, I think I have a love hate relationship with my jig saw. I dont use it often, but its there if I need it. One of the best ones I have used is the DeWalt battery powered saw. A little heavy compared to the mains variety but it cuts great once you set it up initially. Even with out the battery its a beyond my budget considering I use a jig saw so little. Some good tips there, especially the wax on the shoe. That trend mask is one comfortable and effective dust mask. I purchased one after watching your video. Last weekend I used it for about 90 minutes in my Polytunnel. Thats a big type of Glass house for those who dont know. Big semi circular frames and a heavy poly cover for growing plants / vegetables. Any how it was over 100 degrees F in there and dusty pulling old vegetation out. I leaked a lot in the heat but the mask stayed comfortable and didn't leak. I took the filters out and washed it out, so its ready to go again. I found it has a small drain plug between the filters for washing, very useful. One of your best tips on the mask. Keep the videos coming ,always interesting and informative.

[@ericrickert3045]

Got that Mask! I use it for everything woodworking, mowing the lawn, and any work in a disty area.

[@rickolson9011]

One of your best tutorials! Thanks! I love the swiveling feature of my old Craftsman- it keeps the saw weight well supported -but it needs an Allen key. Nothing is perfect!

[@maradall]

Thank you for these tips. I watched several instructional videos when I first got my jigsaw, but now after using it on a few projects, these extra tips are exactly what I need!

[@TaylerMade]

i have to admit as a retired furniture maker, i rarely ever used my jigsaw. most commonly it was for cut outs that would be mostly hidden from sight afterwards. as you say though, they are handy when that is the only tool that will do the job. i also have a circular saw that is only ever used for docking timber for dimensioning.

[@brucebellows7772]

Excellent video. you could have commented on the fact that you were using a barrel grip saw, I've been using a Bosch barrel grip for 20 yrs. Best tool in my shop.

[@hmarci]

Oh that sandpaper trick could have saved me weeks of filing when I was making my desk :D

[@wildcards58]

I often use the tilting base option of the saw to round of edges of workpieces. I first cut a chamfer on both edges of the workpiece and the use a grinder to round it completely. Works like a charm!

[@stephen1137]

9:57 The sandpaper on the blade! Brilliant!

[@anthonyjackson280]

I have shown the plunge cut trick to a couple of experienced contractors who had never seen it. It won't work with all blades though - depends on how the bottom most tooth is designed. I have used pieces of carpet (nap down) on the shoe to protect surfaces. The file effect can also be done by judicious use of the blade, relying on the tooth offset. Works quite well with metal cutting blades (in a push have done it with bandsaw as well) if an opening ends up that 10 thou (0.01" / .25mm) too tight, or if the cut line wanders a little. It takes slow, gentle and very precise hand-eye coordination.

[@mscot]

Thanks for this. Deflection is a common problem for me. I'm going to do my best to incorporate what I've learned here on my next go!

[@nobuckle40]

Thank you James. These tips will be very helpful the next time I use my jig saw.

[@fredbrooks1386]

I love to learn new techniques and reinforce the old ones.Thanks, you are the master!

[@michaelnichols7669]

The bevel function on the jig saw is great for back cutting scribes in finish carpentry applications. I used to hate using the jig saw because I couldn't get accurate cuts. I have since learned it was my technique, the tips you listed are all solid and helped me learn to love my jig saw.

[@likeskittys]

So happy i came across this video as im about to get my first jig saw. Thanks

[@brianstevens3858]

"Always clamp" the extra control is worth the time, On tight curves far from an edge, back up take the scrap side out a couple passes then have room to make release cut. Good job Stumpy, I didn't think there were many people who even still used these. lol

[@thatcrazywolf]

Really appreciate your videos man they help out newbie woodworkers like me. Could you do a video on how to get the best cuts with a circular saw for those who don't have the space or budget for a table saw? Also maybe a short video on circular saw safety?

[@TheWoodStroker]

Good stuff, I especially like the sandpaper on the blade idea.

[@kenbrown2808]

back when sawzalls were still a short stroke saw, I used to terrorize cabinetmakers by pulling out a sawzall to make cutouts in cabinets. I would get jigsaw size blades and I had jigsaw performance with the better visibility of a sawzall. unfortunately, when they increased the length of the stroke, on newer sawzalls, they started pulling the blade clear of the kerf during the cut. now I use a rotozip or a hand saw.

[@martinoamello3017]

I once received a nasty letter from the maker of Sawzall when I tried selling an off brand reciprocating saw online. LOL

[@lgude]

Back in the 70s all I had was a nice Craftsman jigsaw with an oscillating blade feature so I learned a lot of these techniques and still am much more confident with the jigsaw than a circular saw. I have a 12v Bosh variable speed jigsaw now which I really like using. I will add the wax and painters tape on the base techniques. Plus your explanation of focusing on the front of the blade as the pivot point makes clear what is really going on as one glides the blade.

[@kencoleman7762]

Nice presentation. I don’t use a sabre saw very often so I appreciate the reminders.

[@dand3975]

My old Black & Decker "Saber Saw " has a scroll saw optional feature. when cutting straight I use the scroll to micro adjust, when I start cutting off line. When cutting curves the scroll let's you micro adjust, and turn on a dime.

[@earlyriser8998]

loved the suggestions on cutting curves. I can never get mine flat. The focus on the front of the blade may be the tip I needed.

[@StrixyN]

I had no idea you could plunge cut with a jig saw. Not sure I'll ever use that, but happy that's in the old "toolbox".

[@sethdistler5332]

Ive been using a jigsaw for 215 years. Excellent video. Parady to some of the other comments 😂

[@leeh9420]

Really appreciate the respirator recommendation - have been looking for one that works well with glasses!

[@aaronporter2180]

The jig saw is one of those tools that buying a nicer one makes a huge difference

[@folby]

great info as always! I tackled the top-side tearout by making a zero-clearance shoe. plexiglass lets me still see where i'm going, and scoring a straight line in front of the blade hole gives a where-you're-headed guide.

[@Sen89ew]

Once again, you nailed it. Thanks again for your wisdom.

[@eugenetswong]

Mr. Nubs, thank you for your quality video and for sharing your wisdom and experience.

[@pacosninjatacoteam2884]

Oh man I forget where I learned how to plunge cut with a jigsaw, but it was one of the first things I figured out myself (and how to do it well) in my early high school days. When you're plunge cutting, don't get in a rush and apply too much pressure

[@robertbamford8266]

Relief cuts & painter’s tape 👍. Thanks for the tips.

[@ralphiewigs2208]

I love jigsaws, especially in the cordless age. In the 80s I had a Bosch that had a little rasp blade. I didn't use it often, but it got me out of a couple of jams. I think I still have it somewhere.

[@manybikesrbest]

Great tips, but one you didn't mention: When using a down-cutting blade (for zero tear-out on the top surface), set your reciprocating function to 'zero'--straight up and down, in other words: You'll have a cleaner cut on the top and pretty clean on the bottom, too. You'll have to go slower to control the cut (and jumping up), however. Down-cutting blades also wear out faster when used this way. Also, if you ever cut metal with your saw, you MUST use the 'zero' reciprocating function, and, of course, the proper blade, and a drop of oil on your piece.

[@dustydarkhorse]

I really need to upgrade my jigsaw. I'm still using my dad's Black And Decker jig saw that I remember him buying 20+ years ago and it JUST WONT DIE!!! That being said it'll probably be a cordless DeWalt and Corded Bosch. I will never buy another Rigid tool in my life.

[@brianfreeman8290]

I've watched so many of your vids. You really are a gifted teacher.

[@hansangb]

At the end, I picked up the Trend Stealth mask a few years ago after you suggested it. I haven't regretted it. It's terrific!

[@jonkirkwood469]

Timely video. I will be cutting an opening for a bar sink in a countertop I built. Tear-out is my recurring nightmare as a contemplate the cut. I cut four window openings in my cargo trailer using a jig saw. By the fourth one, I was close to getting almost nearly not scared by the jigsaw.

[@BassadorWoodworking]

9:56 This is genius! I will absolutely be trying this out!

[@queazocotal]

If you don't care about the guide roller.

[@Bshwag]

the bosch progressive blades are in my opinion the very best all purpose blade out there cuts very fast through most material

[@peteragurkis3590]

Been building stuff and tinkering for my whole life, still always watch your videos even if in familiar with the tools because you've always got more to offer. I don't know everything...yet :)

[@n8sot]

Thanks Stumpy!!! Im going to save this one. (pretty much save them all!!) Im going to need to re-watch this one a few times. Tons of info!!!!!! Thanks again for all you do for us newbs!!!

[@biomed2560]

Excellent informative video. The downside of the toolless blade changing system is that the blade is not very accurately aligned fore and aft however carefully it is installed. Even a degree or two out (which it usually is) will make the saw want to wander off course. When using a clamped on fence, the saw will want to drift either towards the fence with ever more determination or drift away from it, needing very firm hand control to keep it on course. It's also very difficult to set the blade so it is exactly at right angles to the baseplate particularly when it has been moved to make a bevel cut.