How I opened my Korg Kronos to repair a Joystick Pitch Bend Controller detuning problem

[@confusiontrio2816]

Many thanks for sharing your expertise. I followed your clear instructions to replace the JS and things work properly now :-)

[@danwentz]

At 4:30 you mention removing cardboard spacers, but it's not clear to me where they are placed during this procedure - or why. Thank you, great video. I actually had the same thing happen last year but it was serviced under warrantee.

[@Halunlimited]

Hi Dan. The cardboard pieces (that came with the shipped factory keyboard - or make your own) should be wedged between the front facing side of the keys and the thin metal framing strip that runs along the entire front of all the keys. If you do not insert the cardboard to maintain an approximately 1/16" spacing between the keybed and metal strip, the keybed could could shift and some keys will get stuck to the metal strip. That's why I included this step in the instructions. The cardboard is removed after the keyboard has been reassembled and all the screws are tight to insure no further movement. Glad you got it done under warranty. Enjoy your great instrument!

[@peterwoods9507]

Hi Hal, do you put spacers along the whole facing front of the keys or is it only several areas you put them in ? How do you get 1/16" cardboard thickness? Thanks

[@pjpthepostman1953]

Thanks for the video. This set met on the right track. I could not get a replacement part, so I have repaired it instead. In my case the pitch problem occurred after using the mod wheel (+Y direction). As soon as I used the pitch bend, the pitch would be okay again. The problem was caused due to the bending moment on the potentiometer. So I have used the following approach: - Desoldering the potentiometer, clean it (see the how to from Mike Sisk: www.synthtopia.com/content/2017/09/02/how-to-repair-faders-on-a-vintage-synthesizer/) - slightly bend the sliders - Mount the potentiometer, but do not tighten the bold, so that it can move a little: this will prevent the bending moment when the mod wheel is used. I do not know which part did the trick exactly, but it is now working correctly again. I am not sure how long it will last though.

[@davemusic4370]

Thanks a lot; I just replace in my Kronos2, part was only $19.95 from Parts Is Parts. No spacers I could see for the K2 and it doesn't have those heat sinks apparently.

[@Halunlimited]

Glad you got to fix it yourself successfully. Thank you for your feedback. I remember some people, even with the original Kronos, were missing the spacers, or maybe they fell out in the packaging. If you didn't see the the heat sinks, they must have been redesigned or moved to a different position. I would think some kind of heat sink would still be needed.. Enjoy your reinvigorated Kronos. From what I've read recently, the Kronos is still in a league of its own as far as features and capabilities.

[@SerhanOsman]

Thanks for the video 🙏 I have Kronos workstation x. The first generation like yourself. Do you know if this takes DDR2 or DDR3 ram chips? (I’m having a startup disk problem) and thinking it’s either to do with corrupt ram or the actual hard drive

[@Halunlimited]

Thank you. Sorry I don’t have familiarity with the chips. Luckily, my 11 year old original Kronos has not needed anything else and is in fact still working on the same old clock battery, which has not yet been replaced. I expect that to be the next service task. Good luck.

[@liviou2004]

Thanks a lot for your video. I just notice that it not really a repair but a replacement you did ! Actually, it is possible not to replace all the unit but replace one potentiometer only (X axe), available on the net.

[@Halunlimited]

Thanks for your note Fred. The whole part that I showed was only $34 including shipping at the time so I was very happy when it totally solved my significant problem. I'm not an expert, so as far as I knew, it looked to me like the potentiometer was integrated into the replacement assembly shown. Honestly, I don't know what the Korg potentiometer would look like just by itself without the joystick module. Happily, the joystick and my now vintage Kronos have been functioning very well.

[@nickienok9643]

That's actually a fantastic effect! But of course, not suitable for normal piano. I have a problem with the contacts, need cleaning i guess, i get a startup error. Can you help on that? thanks!

[@JeffPalmer83]

I think my “side wiring harness,” as you call it, is not properly attached. Is it supposed to screw in somehow?

[@Halunlimited]

Hi. The two red color wired harnesses each have a white plug that you pull out via the plastic plug with a small plier as shown in the video. Do not try to pull them out by pulling the red wires to avoid breaking the white plug connectors. There are no screws holding the harness. Screws are only used to fasten the whole controller assembly to the Kronos chassis. Good luck.

[@JeffPalmer83]

@@Halunlimited hmm, on mine, the whole side “assembly” was loose (not the wires) from the main joystick assembly. It seems to be causing the JS-X to not return fully to center. Do you think I need to replace it?

[@Halunlimited]

@@JeffPalmer83 I don’t remember anything being loose. If something is loose, if it can’t be carefully tightened (eg via the 4 controller screws) then that loose play might be a problem. I’m not sure which component is loose. Is it the white plug attached to the red wires (I have been referring to it as the wired harness)? If the plug is loose, it might need to be pushed in deeper into the electrical socket. BTW, I have the original 11 year old Kronos (still working great). Maybe you have a newer one, and if the part doesn’t look the same, I may not know about it.

[@JeffPalmer83]

@@Halunlimited So it’s actually the little chip board piece on the side (and the part appears to be identical). So in your “bottom view” screenshot, it’s that whole side assembly in the front/left of the image. It’s like actually pulling loose from the main plastic housing. The wires that go into it are secure, though. Can you tell from your old piece how that side board connects to the main casing?

[@Halunlimited]

@@JeffPalmer83 You said, "So in your “bottom view” screenshot, it’s that whole side assembly in the front/left of the image. It’s like actually pulling loose from the main plastic housing." I am looking at the 2:30 video time market for this reference. My "side board" was firm. I don't know if that can also be pushed into the main plastic housing to make it more secure. I would carefully try that. A loose fit implies a loose connection and that is never good. The entire controller assembly part shown in the picture was very low cost, so if the side board does not go in firmer, then it sounds to me like you're better off getting a new replacement unit (with new sideboard already properly attached) as shown in what I received. Please note I am not a Korg rep and I am only giving my opinion based on my best hunch. Good luck.

[@gretschplaya]

Hmm, I'm having the same problem. I've seen the joystick assembly and the potentiometer, but I don't think the potentiometer comes with the assembly. I really don't want to spend $90/hr on a problem that's solved in 20 minutes, and spend time/money on driving it either four hours south or three hours north. Did the joystick come with the potentiometer per chance?

[@JohnnyADi]

My pitch bend problem on my korg kronos 2 started when i plugged a behringer model d into my kronos 2 via midi cable. When i use the pitch bend i start using the pitch bend up and it goes for a little bit then skips to a much higher note and if i dont let it go back to center fast enough it takes like 10 seconds of a smeary transition back down which is really annoying and other times unless i giggle it around it stays like that. Even when i unplug it the same thing happens but its not as strong as when im using it for the model d. but its still really annoying AND NOW when i plugged it back in today and played for a little it randomly drifts up and down without me even touching it. Another problem i have when i first plugged my native instruments S88mk2 into it via midi i believe one of the presets on kronos was a pizz esemble or something and once every 3 minutes it plays piano for a second or 2 as the sound then goes back to strings. makes no sense. AND i have a problem where on a few keys sometimes the after touch makes the key play it self again. help me. I think all my problems are electric not mechanical. maybe the aftertouch on the few keys is but the others are electrical.

[@pacokeys]

But in short, where does the problem come from? If you change the entire piece, which is the part that broke, is the potentiometer the one that causes the detuning?

[@Halunlimited]

Hi Paco. Based on feedback from responses below, I believe you are right that it would be the potentiometer. However, the full module replacement was so cheap, it made sense for me to replace the complete unit. This way I would be covered for any other component of that module that might wear out in the future. Good luck.

[@terfab19]

Hi Halunminited, do you still have your Kronos ?

[@terfab19]

I'm having the same issue with Detuning, would love to share a video with you

[@Halunlimited]

Yes I still have the same Kronos for 9 years.

[@Halunlimited]

@@terfab19 For additional information, you can also contact the KorgForums website where many Korg players (more knowledgeable than myself) will be happy to share advice.

[@kingstrauss4930]

Thank you sir you saved my life haha