How I Train Body Tension on Tension Board: V0 to V7

[@rockentry]

Hello friends, Here is a really good example how I climb on the tension board. Much love and thank you! Have questions on BODY TENSION? ask them in the comments below.

[@mwatsonphoto]

What gym is this at?

[@steventijerina7589]

Seriously one of my favorite channels. So underrated.

[@justinsidener4953]

Headed to the rock gym clicked on KZbin for my hour drive and I see this. Perfect! Hello from the midwest

[@rockentry]

Hello friend, Hope you get psyched and crush it!

[@mr.yonosenada]

Noob climber here (3 weeks old)! Thanks for all the tips! They've helped me a lot. I even pre-ordered your book. Keep it up!

[@rockentry]

aawww much love man! Thank you ;)

[@chaseramos4865]

once you send your first v6 you should start the chriss webb parsons hangboard method

[@scottfredrickson2948]

Definitely the best teaching aid climbing videos. Showing the correct/incorrect methods side by side really highlights the techniques. A question about the term "tension" that gets used all the time, does that mean you are pulling, pushing, both, does it mean you make yourself rigid by flexing all your muscles? What is the "feeling" you should have when you are under "tension"? Please describe this feeling, as I think it would help clarify a lot of misconceptions. I just started climbing so "tension" is a new concept for me. I mainly do cycling (road and MTB) where the more relaxed you are, the better off you'll be. Is climbing just the opposite? Thanks.

[@rockentry]

Thanks my friend, appreciate you! Body Tension you will feel when you're climbing steep walls. Notice when you're climbing up a steep wall how difficult it is to keep your feet on the holds. The farther the reach(distance from your toe and hand holds) the more body tension you use specially if the foot chip is really small you will notice how engaged your core, feet(pressing down) and shoulders needs to be to keep yourself from cutting feet or falling. Definitely the opposite of being relaxed when you're cycling. I'll do a future video to explain this with visuals as it will be very helpful, thanks for pointing this out!

[@EweJinLeeAmazingLee]

@@rockentry please do! I'm looking forward to it. Love your channel, it's helping me a lot. Thank you.

[@ShmavinShmenhouse]

Dude how did I miss this when it came out? Damn KZbin algorithm... This is straight up dope. Great episode!! Getting me super psyched

[@rockentry]

Glad you liked it amigo! Really enjoying the tension board!

[@TheGirlClimber]

That's awesome! We need a Tension board at our gym! 👍 👏 🧗‍♂️

[@brenttsuji3031]

That was a good day! Ozzy always blowing my mind everyday I climb with him. One day I’ll be as strong as el tornado. Eric crushing too!

[@rockentry]

I only crush when I’m around brent lol ;) thanks amigo.

[@gryphon940]

Boards are hardcore. I'm a new climber 1.5 months in can climb v4. Tried a v0 on the tension board and couldn't even send it. Can't wait to progress

[@gabs392]

Just got a board in our climbing gym - going to try it out tonight. Thanks!

[@GiantPanther]

Really nice video, I love the Tension Board, I'd definitely recommend next time mirroring the climbs to make sure you don't have any asymmetry, but you're already well past me, I just sent my first v4 (Bubbles) myself! Super stoked, glad to see other people on the boards, it's fun to make climbs to force movement or work problem areas.

[@rockentry]

Nice man! I’ll try that problem next time! Love the fact that we can try each others climbs. Pretty awesome. Thank you!

[@ejl74]

Intro is dope! Can’t wait til I can try some of that training. Only been climbing since March so not ready for all this.

[@rockentry]

With time you will be up on this wall, Keep at it my friend. Thank you.

[@vmas24]

getting strong dude!

[@jibzouth]

Love this video! I just started doing two Moonboard sessions every week now and I really feel the difference when it comes to creating body tension! I also feel that board training in general is more helpful to prepare me for bouldering outside than a lot of gym problems. Lots of gym problems are made using huge volumes and demand for really tricky coordination moves.. Even though they can be fun, its not as useful outside. Keep up the good work !

[@rockentry]

Oh boy! you sir are going to get so strong! Keep at it and enjoy the gym routes as well ;) It's a good mix.

[@lie11111]

Looking strong man! Gj!

[@rockentry]

Thank you!

[@russellchow368]

I love tension board, but i wish they would put the lights above the holds 😭

[@ultrachen]

tbh body tension has become the most frequent words in our conversations during the climbing now.

[@Burritosarebetterthantacos]

I really need to build this😀

[@GingerTrain]

Love the intro, beautiful edit. Body tension and pinch strength are my 2 weakest points, I can't yet train on a moon/tension board because I can't squeeze the holds hard enough to stick to the wall. Got any tips or tricks? Keep up the great videos buddy!

[@rockentry]

Best way to improve pinch strength when starting out is by climbing pinch problems, simple. Don't try and avoid them. Thank you!

[@ghostbeer2522]

@@rockentry Watching your tips has gotten me to challenge myself more with pinches and crimps. I used to avoid them because I would rarely send a problem that used them heavily. Now, I don't worry about the send and just try to make small improvements each time I attempt them. I've even been trying out grades that are out of my skill level and it's allowed me to feel WAY more comfortable on lesser grades ( I focus more on body positioning/ foot placement and don't worry as much about falling or not having enough strength) There's a V4 at my gym in Philly right now that has both small crimps and pinches, so I'll be working on that after work today, using what I've learned. I know I'll be able to send it soon. Thanks for all you do Ozzy!

[@climberdad]

Is that a Moon Board right next to the Tension Board? Moon vs. Tension?

[@rockentry]

Yeah that’s a moonboard. I’m a huge fan of the wooden holds so I’ve been climbing more tension board lately.

[@doreenang3974]

Another good video, thanks!

[@rhian2033]

I'm curious how that warm-up V0 is anywhere near a 5.10b?

[@aries_9130]

Awesome climbing. Brent's glasses are rad as fuck as well LOL

[@NolanField-yh9il]

What angle you at?

[@LongBoy.0]

how often do you train on the TB?

[@christineaquino6976]

Oswaldo!!! I like your videos because they show various techniques for holds and body tension. As a beginner, I look at these videos to see if I can transfer the skills for my climbing. May I request a video for body tension tips for beginners? Any suggestions for beginners when thinking about body tension in indoor climbs? I have trouble with inclines or slight slopes. Thank you!!

[@rockentry]

Glad to be part of your progress and it's great that the content is help you. I'll see what I can do with your video request, I have a long list but well see ;) Thank you!

[@jonocwl]

so strong man!

[@manuelreyes2795]

Killed my fingers on the comp wall yesterday. Only core work out today, maybe some V0 and V1

[@rockentry]

Hope you did great on the comp tho!

[@manuelreyes2795]

@@rockentry yeah. But even an ice bath barely helped, feels like someone took a hammer to my hands. Thanks for the videos. How bout a video on core training... not on the wall but, you know, some workouts.

[@harrynguyen1331]

Love the music, what is it?

[@RCodyWanner]

Oh snap - this one’s gonna bang dude.

[@rockentry]

My boy Cody!! Miss ya brotha! Let me know when you’re ready for another climbing trip ;)

[@dirkneumann6659]

Thanks for this informative Video. In my oppinion one of the best climbing channels on youtube. Keep up the fantastic work and please tell me how this song in the opening scene is exactly called. :D couldnt get this track out of my head :D Much love from Germany :)

[@rockentry]

This means a lot to me thank you! Here is the link to the song but apparently the artist removed it ;( soundcloud.com/randuski/warp-instrumental

[@jonkrause6714]

Make it look way too easy-crushing! 😝🤘To maybe give perspective of pitch, may be bottom looking up or profile (side view)? Gives real element of how difficult it is and how hard work, like you always do, pays off. ⚡️🤘

[@rockentry]

hehehe Yeah, Definitely will include a better perspective view next time. Thank you!

[@rahulranjan8173]

Last boulder Respect

[@VickySmalls]

Haha, Thanks for filming Eric! And thanks for making this video! Watching this was actually a big deal for me. The tension board is definitely something I need to use more at my climbing gym. What is the app you used for it?

[@rockentry]

Yes, thank you Eric! The app is called Tension Board App.

[@waynelin6238]

Hi rockentry, thanks for all your great videos! I have really learnt a lot from them. As many others have said, the side-by-side comparisons you have on your channel are the best on youtube. Could I ask if you have any tips for climbing in the cave, especially coming out from the cave onto a vertical/less steep overhang? That is where I tend to lose body tension and feel like I have to cut loose (which is tough cos my arms aren't very strong yet). Also I feel that cave technique has some big differences from overhang technique (e.g., I find that in the cave I want to have both feet on holds as much as possible, and flagging/smearing doesn't help as much as it does on the overhang), but I have not found anything on youtube that addresses it specifically yet. Cheers, and keep sending and documenting your sends for us! (:

[@waynelin6238]

To add on about coming out from a cave onto a vertical: I think I often don't know how to use my legs, which are pushing (near horizontally) on holds still inside the cave, to propel me upwards on the differently angled vertical wall, and so tend to resort to a dynamic move/deadpoint. The reason I find it harder to maintain body tension than in deadpoints on a vertical wall probably has to do with the curled up body shape, but I am not sure.

[@rockentry]

Wayne Lin It all depends on the climb how you have to come out of the cave but yes lots of tension involved but using toe or heel hooks if possible can help A LOT! I’ll see what I can do for a future video. Thanks for the suggestion! You rock ;)

[@waynelin6238]

@@rockentry Thank you for your reply, Oswaldo! I just managed to do one such problem by having better footwork. (This one was not a hook, but I will look out for opportunities to place those hooks in the future.) And yes, a future video on it would be great. ;) Keep crushing!

[@DinoTamer23]

Has the Tension board helped your outdoor climbing??

[@silenthicks]

Awesome video purely because I want to try the routes that you did just to compare and see how high I can get, which app did you use and what type of board is that? I've got a few gyms here locally in Melbourne that use different apps and have different setups. I wasn't aware the routes could go as low as v0 on a 45deg board, I remember having a feel of these types of holds on that sort of angle and thought I wouldn't be able to start any of the routes

[@rockentry]

This is a 40deg board and the app is just Tension Board app.

[@pajaroprofeta]

looking strong! would love to have one of this in my country so i can try the problems - and steal your beta ;)

[@rockentry]

Thank you! If you have a moonboard near by let me know and I'll post some moonboard/problems we can all work on ;)

[@pajaroprofeta]

@@rockentry nearest one is like 600 km from where i live, so sadly i won't get a chance neither. But sure would like to see it anyway!

[@SuperSaiyanPhysique]

Awesome Ozzy!! Do you use the moonboard too?

[@rockentry]

I sure do! Love it as well.

[@Tingly5974]

Which gym is this at?

[@rockentry]

The Stronghold Climbing Gym in LA

[@alexandrewcoronel]

For the Blue Flames 🔥

[@rockentry]

Yes! The things I do for blue flame ;)

[@donovandownes5064]

the way you pronounced "projecting" in this context threw me for a loop

[@tblends]

Post a vid of Gorilla at 30!!! Stuck…

[@Xeratas]

imgur.com/z4Gp1Ln someone better tell eric what the lights mean :D jk that also happens to me i use this boards with lights to less :D

[@rockentry]

hehehe I still do this sometimes as well. I need to try the kilter board less confusing! ;)

[@PaulMathieu---]

*****

[@willmetcalf8681]

First!

[@rockentry]

You win first heart! ;)

[@silenthicks]

i think this is actually the first time ive seen someone post first and actually be first

[@margauxmayer8207]

What gym is this?

[@rockentry]

Stronghold. Great gym!

[@margauxmayer8207]

I've actually never been! No moon boards at any of the Touchstone gyms huh? :(