The Reason You Can't Hold Body Tension

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A common misconception in climbing is that body tension is primarily generated by tightening the core. When people hear “stay tight!”, they take that as their cue to flex their abs as hard as they can, often times cutting feet and front levering through a sequence. Climbers will religiously train their core through all types of exercises but still come off the wall during moments that require high body tension. So what gives?This video will cover the primary components that are required to create body tension in climbing. We’ll separate them into the categories of leverage and pressure.
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0:00 Intro
1:00 Creating Leverage
1:22 Counterpressure
2:10 90 Degree Rule
3:13 Applying Pressure
4:07 Mind Your Feet
4:42 Training Body Tension
5:08 Open vs Closed Chain
6:02 Extended Traversing Feet
6:50 Common Weaknesses
7:21 Outro

[@EtaiDvora]

Cool way to explain it! One phrase I always liked from a coach I know is "Your core is every part of your body between your fingertips and your toes". Perhaps technically untrue, but it helps a lot to think about creating tension not just by tightening your abs, but thinking about tightening and positioning your whole body in certain specific ways to help yourself stay on the wall.

[@Nuttyirishman85]

To the chest was the best advice I ever heard bouldering.

[@Notasisay]

How hard was it for this guy to pretend he couldn't hold body tension on those problems? He probably maintains his core tension while sleeping and does pull ups to get out of bed when he wakes up at 3am. Basically I'm jealous of the fitness level, haha.

[@AmirNickname]

On "mind your feet": I have a background in martial arts too and I've considered making a video to explain how the principles of a punch also apply to climbing movements. When I see beginners throw a punch, I can see them move their centre of gravity up as they throw the punch, thus they are no longer rooted and lose power. It's similar in climbing: even though you want to go up to the next hold, you'll want to stay rooted by staying low at the same time.

[@aaronparry2636]

the principles of kicking are also very similar to the principles of tension with the exact same mind your feet/hold your roots outlook (not to mention the near fanatic focus on core).

[@sandybuttcheeks6091]

Found this channel a couple days ago, and have found all your videos super useful. While I have been climbing for a while, and have come across the techniques and methods used - I didnt have them formulated or put into words. So to get that from you has been great. Thankyou so much, keep doing what youre doing.

[@Cavery1984]

I've been climbing a long time but the closed chain explanation of training was really excellent. I've been doing that extended traverses on a board intuitively for skill building since I've returned to climbing and was really pleased to see it depicted here. I will make the effort to think through my feet while looking at the hand, great way to put it!

[@minnietammie]

Your explanations of climbing techniques are so easy to understand. One of my favorite educational climbing channels!

[@mitchellhintzsche993]

This is probably my favorite video on your channel so far! I couldn't agree more with every point you make.

[@TrebleWing]

I really enjoy your teaching style. Thank you for putting these together. They really help a lot.

[@Aris-Darling]

Love this! Beautifully explained and executed. Thank you 😊

[@fabio1212s]

Great explanations in this video! It's so bizarre how in so many disciplines people think core strenght is a magical thing that will solve all their problems. Handbalancing might be the most annoying example. I guess it's just easier to say "tense you core" than to give a complete and comprehensive explanation like this one 🙌

[@michaels8902]

My favorite video yet from your channel! Really well done.

[@vidhoard]

This is brilliant advice thank you!

[@jazzysmazzy3571]

I was so excited to see you had posted again!! Your videos are incredible! This makes so much sense thank you! On overhang I have a habit of putting pressure in my toes, and didn't realize that was a main reason behind my body tension. Friends will ask but how do you stay on the wall and I'm like I don't know, but now I do! Such an awesome video, thank you!

[@functionallyyou1273]

This is one of my favorite topics in climbing, amazing job covering it!!

[@danieljaramillo1519]

I really needed this, thank you! I have felt plateaued in my climbing recently and especially with the kilter & tension boards. I will work on this and watch this as I continue to progress!

[@philyskes3727]

You make the most in depth short videos, that are so insightful.

[@micahart2980]

Amazing video! You have helped me improve my technique so much

[@veresdenialex]

This is really good info, thanks!

[@staywilddigitalmarketing2647]

Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy the in-depth explanation of movement, tension, and the 90 degree explanation.

[@JesusRobledo23]

Glad to see new videos out, and I hope you liked the problems set at Momentum.

[@johnshipley1389]

Mate you make the best videos! I watch loads of KZbin but probably only absorb 10% of the information but I seem to absorb much more information the way you put it out and I appreciate you dude , thank you.

[@wrongbeta]

Fave climbing channel. Thanks for the content man.

[@paulmorin2582]

Great content. Your explanations really resonate with me.

[@alvarobriceno4500]

this was awesome thank you!

[@RielleOlivo]

I learned more in those last 7 min than in the past months ; thank you!

[@maldjia]

Quite insightful and well presented. Thanks!

[@tinachang2657]

This is so helpful. Thank you!

[@johntatman9168]

This makes complete sense and your explanation is excellent.

[@FrancescoGasparin]

Always the best tips and explanations ! thank you !!

[@siankopada7401]

Some great things to think about, thanks!!

[@user-hr3mi2sp7c]

Really great explanation 👍 your videos are succinct and with great technical content.

[@nikkitangtiphongkul1297]

I love the video, thank you for sharing and put your time into this. 👍👏you rock!

[@phillipjohn4800]

Glad to see you're back!

[@cassiedes]

Very informative video. Thank you!

[@RyanDaMannn]

Counter pressure is such an integral part of climbing. It’s awesome that he highlighted this first. It’s the difference between advancing as a climber and being stuck on your grade. Helps those 5.10 climbers become 5.11+ climbers

[@danielshort9911]

Thank you, your channel is gold.

[@cronaut5429]

I haven't watched yet, but this is the topic I really wanted to explore. Thank you! Already love the outline.

[@shaunoleary8740]

This was very helpful! Thank you!

[@tumic5179]

I have been climbing for 6 and i am learning so much from this video, thank you

[@jorgealexandremoreira1792]

Thanks a lot. Great video.

[@markfallu2389]

This was such a mindful way of explaining - thanks!

[@elenasu7369]

I like the explanation of the open chain exercises and close chain exercises! It makes sense and I'll try more close chain exercises.

[@urbandog_fit]

great explain! very helpful!! thank you !!!

[@edwardlane1255]

that was really a good explanation, I've only tried a climbing wall a few times (10+ years ago) but explains some of my issues - not pulling at 90 from the hold - thanks

[@UzumakiBarz]

Its been a while since a climbing video has learned me something new. Thanks

[@paulgaras2606]

Im glad I watched this because it confirms that my personal trainer is on the right track (though she knows nothing about climbing) I took two weeks to work on what she called core movement patterns (lots of different flavors of squats, dead lifts and push-ups and chin ups) and came back to climbing. Before: flash v2, send v3, struggle v4. Now flash v3 and some v4, working on a v5 send.

[@AEClimbingTV]

Amazing content.. all this time I thought body tension was reliant on your ab strength. Thanks for explaining closed chain exercises. great stuff!

[@Djdavidnyan]

Really helpful video, thanks! I’ll start being more aware of this!!

[@a.malaspina6702]

Thank you. Nice one.

[@RealWorldClimbing]

Traversing feet drill looks like a winner to me! Using it! Thanks!

[@tonimartin681]

Cograts for that amazing explanation!!! 👏👏🙌🙌🙌

[@GuidoSausage]

Yes, the zen climber is back. Keep up the good work my friend! 👍

[@joco179]

Crazy to see one of my favorite channels climbing at my home gym. Amazing content I'm definitely going to incorporate these tips excersizes into my training.

[@UCZx48kBoTg9O]

Which gym is this?

[@lucashunter9904]

@@UCZx48kBoTg9OMomentum Millcreek in SLC

[@xitaris5981]

@@lucashunter9904 Oh Dang that's super close to me! I'm going to start trying some gyms out in SLC in the next few weeks

[@austinduer471]

thank you, you're amazing

[@killyourself2times]

As always, cool high quality content 👌

[@FancySurgeon]

Loving these videos, just started climbing recently and these are my go to chill and educational videos.

[@DivyanshKhanna]

Thank you for your videos!

[@languagefreeassangeteacher5338]

Interesting, thank you!

[@acier1056]

Awesome vid dude thank you

[@RossPotts]

Man, can LITERALLY recall each of thos problems from previous sessions. I think I know what to do now.

[@smockytubers1188]

Excellent stuff mate

[@tomaskazokas8123]

great video, thanks!

[@oliverwilliams9507]

Amazing video, thank you!

[@elasticharmony]

Great lesson 👌

[@alvaroc6326]

Really nice. I found myself that working mobility for the psoas and gluets is useful also the T Y I in the rings for tension and compression.

[@jackman00110101]

Best advice I’ve gotten in a while

[@alexnunez4019]

I appreciate your videos!

[@perttumannisto2854]

Amazing! Very inspirational and educational. :)

[@Mimosalover69]

Nice vid even for a beginner level climber, very to-the-point!

[@dalmirogranas9990]

Seriously this one of the best climbing channels out there

[@Johnny_Cash_Flow]

Thank you.

[@pert4361]

Thank you

[@JoBianco]

You have the best videos

[@basedjustice]

*Your world vs The rest of the world* i needed that, thank you so much.

[@hansmoleman7280]

4:06 Mind your feet. 5:52 closed chain exercises such as extended traverse on a 45 and inverted extended plank

[@sighcai]

Oh is that Momentum Millcreek? I was telling my husband I thought I saw Movement from Climbers dude at the gym but we knew you weren't based in Utah so we dropped the thought lol Anyway, body tension is something I really need to work on, especially when doing cave/very overhung climbs. As a short person, I find it's incredibly important to build core strength to keep tension in my body so I can keep my hips close to the wall to be able to reach farther. I will definitely try the extended traversing feet exercise! It's hard to not cut feet with my height (5'0") on overhang, so I'm hoping this exercise will help me improve that particular weak point. As always, thank you for your valuable content! 10/10 one of my favorite climbing KZbin channels!

[@bdotes]

I saw him at Millcreek about a month or so ago and also wasn’t sure if it was actually him 😂

[@movementforclimbers]

Yup, I've moved to Utah and Momentum Millcreek is now my home gym :-) For sure practice Extended Traversing Feet to get your body used to engaging toe pressure. When you climb overhang, opt for keeping your body slightly more on the scrunched side (feet closer to hands) than the extended side (feet and hands far away), and apply that toe pressure you've been drilling and your feet will stay on! See you at the gym!

[@bewarebear22]

Woah, wait a second... You're at my gym! Sweet man! I did the V7 that's the extension of the V8 he's on in the beginning, couldn't squeeze hard enough on the 8. ;)

[@adriandelacruz3390]

love it man! I didn't know you were from utah!

[@Lizbet-04]

Such great videos

[@ryanj9571]

What are your thoughts on good anterior chain training drills/exercises?

[@joshwilliams8863]

As a physicist that just started bouldering, this was a fantastic video! It was really easy to understand, and the graphics really helped.

[@ExitEnergie]

Hey, very helpful and informative videos so far. Appreciate. I was thinking of starting climbing as a mean to become fit. And I can't unsee the fact, that you are wearing these grey or green pants a lot of the times. They look comfortable, elastic, sturdy and good for other occassions than climbing. Would you mind telling me which pants these are? I would be very thankful. Be careful and take care of yourself.

[@sushikeeper4125]

You should do a warming up video. I think it’s something important that many climbers don’t always do.

[@morgancaors180]

Excellent video thank you so much ! I started climbing 2 month ago, and your videos are helping me A LOT, it's incredible. You're giving really good tools that helps understanding our body, and how this body is evolving ( and why i'm falling ahah) on the wall. I was wondering about body tension, and how i could improve it. I thought i needed better shoulders and core to block(which is maybe not totally wrong ahah), but finally the problem could must probably be my feets, as often in climbing ! Thank you so much, i'm very excited to apply it in my next session

[@Rkboards]

Enjoyed seeing how stoked you were on the leg press 🤣

[@snellerdan]

fking love the trueness of your videos

[@topaz_climber]

Mind your feet. I love it. 100% gonna try thinking foot position while seeing hand move!

[@ThoughtBubbles909]

Hey! What is your perspective on lean bulking while climbing? Will that hinder my progress?

[@achookangaroo]

Awesome video. What camera do you use to film? I'm looking for something I can bring to the gym that's not too bulky like a DSLR.

[@fabio1212s]

New video by movement for climbers! YEEEEES

[@Matchamono]

8:03 no deadlift where I am. are kb swings a decent replacement to work posterior chain?

[@bupkissbananaband3237]

The video is about tension, but it is so relaxing

[@TyranosaurusBrett]

4:12 is, in my opinion, one of the biggest game changes. Once I started remembering I have a whole body outside of the hold I am going for everything changed and previous difficult "strong" moves became a lot easier

[@ChaoticRain1]

wish you showed us the end of that yellow boulder problem though!

[@ferncat1397]

More than once I've found my foot slip off while I try to deadpoint something, especially while traversing. I suspect keeping pressure through my feet will fix the issue 🤯

[@codyheiner3636]

Open chain vs closed chain is important, but the bigger point here is posterior chain rather than anterior core. (You do mention this later on ofc)

[@charliecope1144]

Excellent video again! Not been climbing for about 2 weeks because work has been busier. But when it settles down I will be using these videos and all the advice to get better. Loved the part where you put the handheld as 'your entire world' it made me laugh ngl

[@JohnSmith-ld2mc]

One warning about closed chain exercises. If you have a weakness along that chain, you will strengthen those positions within the movement, but it will be most likely through compensation of other muscles and long term it potentially cause injuries.

[@ewanmok]

This may be random, but I love your green pants! Where did you buy them? I'm very prone to leg injury so I'm looking at pants for bouldering :(

[@markkealy4417]

The exercises seem good, butI'm not sure how important the closed and open chain distinction is, is that based off something?