How Much Is An Old Sewing Machine Worth? (A Conceptual Discussion)

Hi!
(NOTE: Almost a year after making this video, I was prompted to watch it in order to respond to a comment, and I realized that I keep referring to "five" sewing machines I acquired when there are actually six. I'm surprised no one else has pointed this out, so allow me to be the first 😂)
In this video, I give my under-qualified and uneducated opinion on the widely-varying prices of used sewing machines.
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Thanks for watching!

[@jrgmty7685]

Off grid machines and tools are priceless to me.

[@chrismontoya4266]

Then a sailrite is worth a look

[@timlee5260]

I don't know a ton about vintage Singer machines, but I can tell you that condition means a lot. For example, I bought two 201-2 machines for $30 each, both moved freely and looked Ok, but one had to be rewired so if your not able to do that then the one needing a rewire isn't such a great deal even at that price. Luckily, I do know how to rewire a 201 potted motor and did it it in about a hour. My advice is to concentrate on one model, learn all you can and buy a machine that you can fix because having someone else do the work is a money pit.

[@davidmessa1419]

Too many people think old machines are high value and plug and play items. I've sold 201's for three hundred dollars but these machines took many hours of restoration. Old machines as great as they are (potentially) need work. Even working ones need adjustment, repair or in some cases fixing damage done by someone not not knowing what the're are doing. There's also an old machine may need parts that are no longer available and need to be made. After I restored a Singer 1200 in the neighborhood a young couple contacted me and wanted me to see if I could do something with their Pfaff 230. It was an estate find in good condition but had been sitting for years and was jammed up and needed repair/adjustment. It sat in three different repair shops for a month. The only one that did anything did more harm than good. They were told it was "hammered", "cheaper to buy a new machine". So after it was repaired they have a machine that may last the rest of their lives. So if you've got a cool old machine will anyone want to work on it ? I'm also suspicious of the term "serviced", what does that mean, maybe it was given a squirt of oil. I don't think people realize the cost of the machines at the time they were purchased. I have a Singer 404, purchased in 1960 $189.50 (machine only), that's over $1700 in today's money. I've tried to sell it for $200 in a cabinet with stool, no interest. For $200 what do you get in a modern machine, plastic and a machine that won't last. I think people might be looking for the quality of the past but unless it's a restored it's value probably not so much. A restored machine can represent many hours of labor to bring it back too life, it's a labor on love for these beauties. No shop can afford to put so much time in fixing these so it's up to the craftspeople out here to save them. I wish people under stood how much work it is to save these, it's much more than oiling and polishing.

[@ryndl]

Dont give up on locked machines. I have a trash find singer 127 that was frozen up. Penetrating oil and tapping up and down on the needlebar for a few minutes got it moving. After cleaning and oiling it now sews perfectly. I have about 2 hrs and 0 dollars into it. After rehabbing 36 old singers l have yet to find one that could not be brought back to working condition with a reasonable effort.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks! I don't know when it will happen, but I hope to try to free some of these machines up soon.

[@ianbutler1983]

I bought a 91-15 in beautiful condition in a walnut cabinet for $130.00. It was running great and I felt that the very nice lady and her dogs needed the money, so I paid the asking price. I probably overpaid a little, but I don't mind, she was so nice. A week later she sent me a box of accessories that she found. I am satisfied and I hope I helped her a little.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

You make a great point that I neglected; sometimes "overpaying" is a worthwhile thing to do! Whether it's to help someone out, or to get something you really want, whether it is technically "worth it" or not, sometimes you just need to fork over the cash :) Thanks for adding to the conversation!

[@kthybrown007]

@@thejasonofalltrades I found a 15-91 for $10 at Goodwill -- missing a few parts and really dirty, but I refurbished it and it runs great.

[@virginiadouglas9449]

i used to love the Pfaff machines thanks for the reminder. All the best to you sir

[@alp-1960]

Thanks. You make many of the same points I've thought about over the years. So many people don't want to hear that their old machine is really only worth what a scrap metal shop would give for it, that any perceived value is in the eye and pocketbook of the beholder. I've paid too much for machines, and got others for a (not literal) steal. I'm sure we all have.

[@MichaelMellen]

I bought a fully operational Standard treadle sewing machine about 15 years ago. Paid $125 for it. It still works great, the wood is dried out, and the top needs to be resurfaced but the machine is in perfect working order. Not a Singer, but I thought it was a good deal at the time.

[@midlandernc7403]

I have rescued and restored 6 sewing machines, and all were locked up and covered with mouse and rat feces and urine and spider droppings. I sanitized them with 99% alcohol and then rubbed with car polish and wax only a few parts from eBay and they all shine and run perfectly like new. Only a little rewiring of the foot pedals and connectors. Most were given to me, and 7 cabinets were included. One was $10 three were $20 and two were on the way to the metal scrap yard. All are treasures. I sew leather upholstery marine vinyl and quilting embroidery. Well worth it all. Many good resources to fix and restore these old gems. Please help rescue these dwindling resources of heavy-duty quality and simplicity. We are going to need them in the future. They aren't worthless and cheap they are priceless. Brother SE400, Brother SE270, Brother 751, NewHome Janome 920-615, Modern Home 805B, Ward UHT-J277, Singer 457A, Singer 328K, Singer 201-2, Singer 66

[@seymourwrasse3321]

I missed out on a 100 year old Singer 1641, the guys father last used in 1960, the machine and all the tools for an upholstery shop $100, getting help together on such short notice is like herding cats

[@rickhammar1636]

The 3 black ones look like singer model 66. The nice thing is that while you are correct they are pretty much junk right now, I bet every one of them can be brought back to service. Then the problem is they most likely won't be worth the time you have invested in them. Their value( in my opinion) is the work it can do for you not so much what someone will pay you for it.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I believe you are correct, they seem to be 66s. Well, if I can get them loosened up, maybe at least some of them will see some additional life! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@lisareed5669]

Bingo

[@heidefries1825]

Totally agree with your view on machines and their value. Lots of really great options out there and you don't need to break the bank to get started or upgrade. There are a few gems worth keeping an eye out for (for the right price, condition, etc.) but in the end they were meant to be used.

[@RomeoWhiskey692]

The difference between worth , value and price . I just bought an old Kenmore 158 series … I needed a sewing machine badly , but I’m broke . This one was seized up . After I worked on it a while … it runs like crazy . I was sewing by hand before … now I’m sewing more , faster … better . Thirty bucks … but invaluable to me … it improves my standard of life immensely .

[@eyedestroyeverything9953]

That sailrite is a steal 🔥🔥🔥 Used them on the job in the rain , tuff machine

[@aimee-made]

This is spot on. I’m originally a Vintage Kenmore girl but in July 2021 I was given a Singer 201 by a neighbor and then (partly out of boredom) I got a significant case of Singer Collection Fever. Over the last months I’ve gotten for cheap or free some great machines, and some real duds that the $30 I paid for them was too much (I’m looking at YOU, Touch ‘n’ Sew - at least that one came with a big pile of nifty top-hat cams, a nice case in good condition, and a pedal I might Frankenstein to the power cord of a 503a). Love the 15-91 that I got for $60 and was missing the cord (a very easy one to replace)…. That was the sweet spot! Anyway, your best advice is to Slow Down - these aren’t that rare, and sellers are asking too much. I think the market for VSMs spiked when we were all super-bored at home and everyone got it in their heads that they would take up baking sourdough, brewing kombucha, putting in a Victory Garden, and sewing a hundred or so cloth masks.

[@maria2400]

Fascinating! Great video.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thank you!

[@christineguo2001]

thank you for all this info!

[@dannyl2598]

Thanks, Most run of the mill domestic sewing machines that I see at thrift stores in my area are priced around $20 - $35. I was thrilled to get a walking foot for $200. Most of the industrial machines that I see are in the range that you talked about. Their are a couple of things that I have learned, that other folks should be aware of and the first is, some brands may be harder to find parts for than others. Two, I find that a lot of industrial sewing machines are set up to do one specific task in a factory and you will have to know how to change the setup in order to make it more versatile to suit your needs. The third thing I have seen is industrial machines that have power requirements that are not available to most folks. I have seen machines that are three phase and even three phase 480 volts. Some also have features that require compressed air to operate. Thanks for the video Jason, I think you did a great job.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks, Danny, for adding some great information to the discussion!

[@asdsdfsdfdsfas2953]

Thank you for posting this. I have several vintage/antique sewing machines and an industrial serger in storage and didn't know what to look for in trying to appraise them.

[@katielove9932]

Neither does he.

[@Tim_Pollock]

Very informative and interesting as always. I may have to watch the yard sales for me a 201. : ) Thanks Jason!

[@colin101981]

Sage advice from someone who clearly know what they're talking about. I thought you pitched it right - the picture isn't that different here in the UK although I think prices are a little higher generally. But the concepts you outline are spot on.

[@ronalddaub5008]

You are spot on as on pricing

[@anneK3801]

Great perspective! When I started collecting VSM in 2016, I wouldn't pay more than $25, and often less. My grail machines were a Featherweight, a Bernina 830 and a Singer 201. I despaired of ever getting any of those at my budget because they were selling for $200 to $500 each. Eventually, I got a Singer 201 for $5, another for free (my sister wanted the table, not the machine), a pristine Singer Featherweight literally left on my doorstep by a friend who didn't want her mother's machine, and a Bernina 830 for $40 (it is my everyday sewing machine to this day). All in great working condition. I would only mention a couple things that you didn't dwell on. If you want to get the most for your machine, know the make and model, take multiple clear pictures, demonstrate that the machine has all functions, and emphasize that you have the manual and attachments. If I was in the market today, I would pay more for a machine that was complete, fully functional and from a person who knows how to care for it. If you are willing and able to tinker, you may be able to find your grail machine at rock-bottom prices (I also have a Pfaff 360 with all attachments that I got for $25).

[@vsmetc7305]

Locked up machines can be loosened up. Enjoyed this video. I check ads all the time. There are high prices out there

[@chrisprice5806]

drop feed industrials will do the lightest fabrics well and do like 75D poly tent cloth sort of stuff really well too. and they are quieter than a walking foot.

[@sewforlife586]

I am a tailor of just over 30yrs. I have never nor would I own a new modern machine. They are accidents waiting to happen. They are plastic and computerized and couldnt sew a whisper to the wind. Out of all the machines I have only one that was made in 1994, all the rest are 1958 through 1967. They are all metal and no plastic and could sew a bumper to a buick. They are all work horses. They are zig zag with decorative stitches, a couple have stretch stitches. My machines are all singer and white brand. The machines u showed for sale, some are a bit over price, but then they all came with cabinets. When u buy a vintage sewing machine more times then not there is no cabinet and its really nice to find that perfect vintage machine with original cabinet that was made just for that machine. A lot of people who sell these machines, and I think you mention this, Dont know anything about sewing machines and dont sew and think because its black and says singer it must be worth its weight in gold. Then u have your honest collectors that do know their way around a sewing machine and appreciate the value and history of what changed the history of the clothing industry in this world. Then u have people like me. The value to me and my profession is worth paying a little extra sometimes to get the machine thats going to help me excel at my business. I appreciate the mechanics and construction and visual attraction of the vintage machines. Not to mention I can fix them most of the time if anything goes wrong. So pay $500 for a modern computerized piece of plastic, or $125 for a singer 603 touch & sew with cams and the first drop in bobbin and matching cabinet? I will choose the 603 everytime.

[@seymourwrasse3321]

the PFAFF was a whole day just getting it from where you are, that has to be figured in also

[@josecervantes7820]

Thanks!

[@annamaxflair]

for some reason cost of old machines was drove up by Covid, a machine i paid $20 for at thrift store precovid, someone has on marketplace for $180

[@danishskiwarehouse]

I hate you Jason! I was perfectly happy with my Singer 237 but then found myself looking over eBay “just to see” after watching this video, and have now bought two 201s!! 😂😂 Seriously, as always, thanks for another excellent video

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Sorry!!! 😂

[@sewingmachinesindetail]

Thank you for this video. I agree with you. I think the prices of vintage machines in Europe is somewhat lower, but you see high asking prices here too. The latest machines I got is a Husqvarna Viking 6010 for $15 and eight machines including a Singer 48k and a Pfaff 30 for $45 in all. I got them because I was interested in their mechanics and how they work. As Rick Hammer points out, the three others you got is most likely Singer 66 machines. After having tried the Pfaff 30, I think its performance is comparable to the Singer 201. Some details are better like the thread tensioners but some other things can be rated lower. I agree, that the Berninas is often priced too high, and I do not like the later models with no adjustment to the down force on presser foot. I guess the Berninas got a good reputation for sewing garment. I know the Pfaff 130 got a good reputation in the US, but in Europe it is not priced higher and perhaps it is because you got a lot of them in market place. The past year I have followed some German forums on vintage sewing machines. Some of the machines produced in former East Germany is considered higher quality that the Pfaffs and Necchis. It is machines marked Naumann, Veritas and perhaps Köhler. Most ended up in Eastern Europe, but some were sold in Western Europe. I am not sure how many got to the US. So when I discover a Naumann 65 in my area, to a reasonable low price, I may be the next buyer.

[@seanhorton3811]

On the Bernina 217s. You were spot on. $2500 is pure nuts. With the more common small cam drive, it would either be a 6 or 8mm zigzag. I have purchased several and would not pay over $750, and only if pristine. I purchased 2 for under $600 each and a clone, head only, for $70. The second 217 machine had the larger cam drive that could do a 12mm zigzag. They are less common and I could see going as high as $1000 since they are much harder to find. These heads natively do a straight stitch and Federal 304 zigzag stitch. The biggest problem now is finding the interchangeable disks for the specialty stitches. With a disk installed, these can do the Federal 308 (3 step, 2 stitch zigzag). This is what makes these machines valuable. A $200-$300 Singer 20U-33 can do a 12mm 304 zigzag, but can't do a 308. If anyone happens to have and want to sell the disk for a 217-6 or -8 Federal 308 stitch , hit me up.

[@randal1470]

An interesting subject 😄. It’s been a very rare event that I’ve not been able to unlock an old sewing machine, save for a few that were literally out in weather and genuinely rusted internally. A big tub the machine fits in, submerge it with kerosene or varsol, and leave it for a week. Most times it’ll come loose. I’ve recovered machines that looked far worse than that when I started.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks Randal! I haven't used kerosene before, but I saw Alexander Dyer using it in a video some time ago. Might give that a try. Florida is notorious for rust, and these are covered with it, but maybe I'll get lucky. I have nothing to lose, so might as well see what I can do!

[@randal1470]

@@thejasonofalltrades in almost every case I’ve worked on locked machines, its not the rust locking them, its the old mineral oil that singer used losing all of the volatiles and turning to a hard varnish. Thats why some of them will actually bump back and forth a few degrees but hit what seems like “stops” in the tiny amount of rotation. The varnish has formed in and around the shuttle or the connecting rods, all of which have a tiny bit of free play in any case, so you can feel that but then it hits the hard varnish and goes no further. Kerosene and varsol are the best, but require a bit of patience to let it soak and soften up the gunk. It’ll also loosen the little bits of rust that may have formed in the bearing surfaces but usually thats actually very minimal, surface rust being more usually the limits of corrosion. You can use more aggressive solvents, but, the thing about varsol and kerosene is neither will damage the clear finish, exposed decals, or underlying enamel, and is what Singer always recommended for cleaning their machines until the plastic era. I used a old galvanized laundry tub for decades for that, put the machine in the tub, loaded in bricks around the machine to cut down on the amount of kero needed, and submerged them completely. Then after a few days I’d start bumping the handwheel back and forth and after a while they’ll start to move further and further and eventually they’ll come loose. Sometimes it would take a few weeks for a really bad case, and I’d use a rubber mallet to gently tap the handwheel in towards the machine, and away from the machine, just lightly, to add a second direction to the movement. Not aggressive banging or anything, just light taps to make some space in all the gunk and allow more kero to seep in. So not high labour or anything, let it soak, and more often than not, you can at least free it up and make it possible to do a tear down to see if its worth more effort, or at least get the parts out of it without wrecking stuff

[@einars899]

Keep looking! One day a sweet deal will be there for you. And in the mean time you will have established the real value for such a machine by buying some already. ;-) I got my third Singer 211 for the equivalent of $20 ! With table and motor. Now I don't need to change thread, I just change machine. But I have a long way to go to get number 30. I will have to buy a bigger house for that, so it is not going to happen. But I'm still looking. Habits are not easily broken.

[@ecay]

If it's not locked up, I find $50 as a reasonable especially today, but people get into the it's vintage. It's old. It has to be worth something and they don't realize there's millions of these that were made. They're not rare. There is a lot of people that want them want specific models they want to sew on them. They do so on them. Produce massively. Beautiful work but they're not extremely valuable once restored they might get you a couple hundred dollars. The feather weights are extremely popular with a group of people and there are people that will literally pay $1,000 to have them completely restored after purchasing The problem I have is that people put them up for sale. I'll contact them. They're not asking a bad price and they'll tell me. Yeah it's still available and that's the end of the conversation. They never respond back. I know they haven't sold it so the only thing I can think of is that their grandma's machines and they don't want to let them go

[@SUPERCOCKROACH666]

It's all about the condition for me! There will always be new sewing machines for sale all the time,,,,, it doesn't take too long to get lucky!

[@richlovin2173]

Good, realistic advice. My first black Singer was $5. I have bought six more for $20 to high of $45. I repair them myself and use all of them. I have found that a $250 machine is NO guarantee of good condition. Be patient, there are good machines out there.

[@MrDonohoo]

The 201, and the Pffaf are definitely restorable, and also the only ones worth restoring imho, as I have multiple 201s (and a 1200) and a Pffaf 130, which is probably more of a favorite of mine, simply because of zig zag adds more versatility in one machine, not to mention mine sews a straight stitch every bit as well as any of my 201s. As far as the Bernina goes that thing is awesome, they were also branded Chandler, they are a straight stitch/zig zag machine, I would pay $500 for it all day, but no more. Thanks for the good videos!

[@bigjohn75]

Great video Jason. I saw some of those listings. On market place. I’m up here in Volusia county. I would get that sale right Machine. If I didn’t need a “ Newer” used truck.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I'm keeping an eye on it, may have to save that one despite myself lol! I occasionally get to your area to check out the springs, say hi if you see me around :)

[@bigjohn75]

@@thejasonofalltrades 👍

[@jvin248]

The Singer 201's were built for Rolls Royce to use in 1950s production seat and interior sewing jobs, a rotary bobbin so they run smoother. My favorite most used is a 15-91 (oscillating) workhorse from the 1950s that just preceded the 201s and appeared to be the benchmark for the 201 designs. 15 series I believe was aimed at small dress shops and other lighter industrial uses as it can go very fine stitch on thin materials to punching through eight layers of denim, so they saw a lot of constant use jobs. Looks like the others you have are 66s (the serial number is on the front of the base deck where the machine body trunk attaches, look up on Singer's site), probably from the 1930s and possibly back into the 1920s. The ones with the twist knob stitch length don't have reverse (but you can get around that need). They probably started out as treadle machines that had motors retrofitted. The Featherweights are worth so much because they are based on the last of the 'black iron' rugged designs and are light weight for older hobby sewers to carry to quilting nights/get-togethers. The 'locked up' black iron Singers can more often than not run again by putting in a plastic bag and liberally spraying the machine mechanicals with 'PBBlaster' (more effective than WD40) then letting it sit in the bag for weeks, testing if the hand wheel moves without trying hard, maybe a little more spray and some more time. I have a 66 that was locked up after spending time in a flooded basement that works fine now, but it looked like a scrap bin candidate in the beginning. I avoid any of the 1960s+ models from Singer, the designer colors around ~600s and newer as they started using nylon gears that disintegrate from age (Singer introduced plastic gears to quiet the machines down) and even the ones around the ~400s series have belts on them -- however Singer has the most new replacement parts available for the common models of any brand. Overall, wiring quality is very important on these old machines where insulation is cracking or bare spots exist in their cords or there are about to be bare spots and wiring often needs replacing, but the value of the machine goes up if the wiring has been nicely done. They make modern replacement cords for lamps/etc that have cloth coverings if you want the vintage ambiance, just check the amp draw of the motor.

[@nick4855]

I’ve learned a lot since buying my first machine. It was a locked up white rotary for $40. I now have about 20 machines. I’m very into the older all metal machines. I’ve got some great deals on mint condition machines. My advice for someone new is buy something that works without tons of work… Patience for the right deal, and being able to walk away if too much work needs to be done… is saving me a lot of headaches.

[@swordfish1120]

Good topic. I think you're right as to the manner in which some people list prices for their machines. They see a similar machine on Craigslist or eBay and use that as a price guide. I live in So Cal where many machines are bought and sold through Craigslist. I recently saw a Juki LU-563 unison walking foot in nice condition for $300. I was ready to head out the door, cash in hand, as soon as the seller responded to my email until I realized it was a 9 hour drive😝. I ended up finding a Brother LS-B837 unison walking foot for $350 an hour away. It just needed a real good cleaning and oiling and a 110v motor. I bought a new servo motor for $100 and spent a couple hours cleaning it up. It now runs butter smooth and the timing was already dead on. IMO deals are out there to be had, but many sellers are asking more than their machines are worth. It's kinda like shopping for a Harley Davidson😎. My best advice is to set ur price cap before you go see any machine, and always be willing to walk away before overpaying.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Great advice!

[@lordsgirl1123]

Thank you. I am a professional with experience in marine canvas and furniture slip covers to wedding gowns. I think there is confusion when people ask about “value.” They are probably wanting to know if price is in the ball park. As far as value, consider what you can purchase new today for $200. . . Not much but wobbly plastic. To buy a new machine of quality today it costs thousands and then it is electronics which are costly to repair IF you can get the components. I use 2 1951 201-2’s on the floor. When people learn that this is a very different machine because it is direct-drive they can begin to understand the value over a 99, 66 and even a 15-91 ( because a different bobbin). I have about 35 machines right now. I have sold them for$25-$200 they are serviced when they go out and $200 is for a 201-2 that went home with my apprentice. I no longer try to sell on public spaces such as market place because it is mostly collectors and people looking to resell. I won’t sell valuable machines for $25. Properly maintained these vintage beauties will out last another generation. Can we really put a price on that? I love them, but I’ve been sewing since I learned on my great-grandma’s treadle when I was 7 years old. I’m 65 today. P. S. The blue could be a 437 which is superior to the 438 because they changed the rocker bar to the bobbin from a solid metal bar to a heavy latex band. If I wanted a machine to sew on, $120 is cheap for a 437 with the fashion disks and good wires. Thank you for allowing me to chime in. Bottom line: new vs. vintage for sewing . . . There is no comparison. Vintage are priceless. 💕

[@DavidWRyan]

I got 2 old machines as part of an auction, a 1940's singer industrial with a 1960's motor table and a 70's Necci heavy duty for $60! I tinkered around with the singer until i got it running, and I also replaced the belts on the Necci. I ended up selling the Singer to a guy who restores old car's upholstery for $100. I think the table alone was worth that, but it was just sitting in my garage. I did make a profit though and I still have a nicely working heavy duty machine to work with.

[@vanessajones3508]

I enjoyed the video. I bought a Singer 99 in 2021. I believe I paid $20 for it. It is from 1928. I cleaned it good. I have to get it rewired. I also want a pedal for it. I bought a cabinet for it. I am pleased with my purchase.

[@musical.0uija]

I paid $100 for my 15-91. I don’t know if that’s good, but it was in excellent condition and it’s the best stitch I’ve personally made.

[@fmphotooffice5513]

Don't know about the industrial walking foot types, but the old 66, 99 types can be frozen and brought back with penetrating oil and TLC. There are tons of inexpensive aftermarket parts for those 100 year old machines and even the refurb original parts are very easy to find. Everyone alive today will be gone before the last 66 finally wears out. The old Britex Fabrics location in SF had a 2 story window chock full with sewing machine carcasses on shelves as decoration. I don't think they'll ever be "antiques" as such. They are workhorses for artists like kite makers, etc.

[@4486xxdawson]

I got a pfaff 332 for 25 bucks , its one of my favorite machines and i only got to sew on it for 10 seconds before the belt let go , i still need the cleated belt , she now is a shelf queen but i still love it , till i can find a belt i will dream of the day i get to use it ...

[@thejasonofalltrades]

brubakerssewing.com/product-category/machine-accessories/sewing-machine-replacement-parts/vintage-pfaff-belts/ I'm not sure if these are the exact belts, but this place is an excellent resource for Pfaff parts. Obviously not cheap, though.

[@kthybrown007]

On the Singers - Each machine has its serial number embossed into the metal on the front left. There is an international registry of serial numbers that provides the model and the date of manufacture, as well as how many were produced in that lot.

[@ronalddaub5008]

That is a 348 because it has the door for the cams I have one but the 347 has a plastic gear and it doesn't have replaceable cams

[@BrookeWrightisMadamMagnolia]

Hello. I’m a newbie at collecting antique sewing machines. I have a huge collection of antique sewing items like iron’s, fabric, sewing advertising items, just about anything sewing related including buttons by the thousands 😂. My grandma worked at the Levi factory in the 1950’s and 60’s. So when they closed up some years ago she was offered a lot of stuff. Anyways I’ve held on to all the items she gave me now for the past 30 years and still enjoy looking/using them today. Well this past year I’ve had a few older friends give me their machine’s they have had in their family for close to 100 years. So to me they are priceless but to others yard sale junk perhaps 🤔. I have to look at them closer to know what I have other than knowing I have a White’ Rotary in a Queen Ann cabinet and two beautiful in the original cabinets with all manufacturing tools and manuals Singer’s. I will go look now what model they are. So ending , your channel gained another person today ~me😊. God Bless. Happy Holiday’s to you and your family. Ps from Florida as well ❤

[@BrookeWrightisMadamMagnolia]

Well one is Singer 15-91 in cabinet 404. I will have to find the manual for the other Singer. I had to remove it from the cabinet because I have my granddaughter and she loves to open drawers and the manual is in mint shape so I would like to keep it that way lol😂

[@arthurbarrios888]

I recently got into sewing machines, fell in love with the vintage heavy duty machines, and most recently bought my first two first ones, pfaff 545 $500 (needs work) and a 132k6 for $1150. I feel like I paid way too much for the singer,but I literally was only finding them outside the country, I’m in California. I really want a singer 7 series machine, and have found a couple north of $1k, I think I’m going to hold off on a better deal now.

[@eibes]

The highest price I paid was for the first one, 30€...then I never paid more than 20€ for machine in pristine condition with furniture and accessories. The last one was a Singer 31k15. I need to stop, I have 5 machines and just two arms. I keep a place for a walking foot one.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

If you count all of these broken ones, I'm over 30 machines now lol. Trying to thin the herd a little, though!

[@eibes]

@@thejasonofalltrades I know I know...but I have a lot of hobbies. Did I told you about my bicycles ? ;)

[@fredhubbard7210]

I hate you... (Where do you find this stuff?)

[@ronalddaub5008]

The second robin egg blue singer is a 347 and it probably has the plastic drive gear pass on that one

[@redoak3809]

Love the Singer 201-2, but just about all of them need to be rewired. A 403A is a treasure, as well as a mint 301.

[@ronalddaub5008]

I will go as far as to say almost any of the 60s 70s Kenmore and Japanese offshoots are all good machines with the class 66 bobbin

[@ericneering6357]

I bought lots of machines, older ones newer ones. I’m trying to build a boat topper for my boat to move so the fabric or the windshields in and on your tip that you gave Dubai the 1591 I found one for five dollars. I rehabbed it and it works great. Would you feel that making one topper on a bowl, this machine could handle without destroying it

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! You would be hard-pressed to break a 15-91. Whether it will be capable of feeding and stitching through sufficient layers of marine canvas for your project is a different question. My guess is you may have to make some compromises in design to minimize layers wherever you can, and you may need to go back and hand-stitch some trouble spots. The machine can handle the abuse, I'm just not sure how it will perform doing it, but I imagine if you are careful and creative you can get it done! Good luck, let us know how it turns out!

[@vintagesewingcentermuseum6636]

The bernina is a “heavy Industry “ machine. Both should bring around 1500-1800. Best bernina ever made

[@vintagesewingcentermuseum6636]

In nice condition: selling price 1500$, buying price 6-700$

[@lisareed5669]

Because the Featherweights are cute and petite. I love this subject.

[@andriashevetz2888]

Do you have more information , or talk on the walking foot machine. I work on a Mitsubishi sorry about spelling, at my place of employment and I love it. I want a walking foot but I don't need all those bells and whistles. The automatic cutter, the computer stuff, the auto back tack, I just want a walking foot machine. Any advice and this show was helpful, especially about the Adler. I like my industrial Singer but it's not a walking foot machine. The mitsubishi I use has 2 feet , do all walking foot machine need 2 feet to feed the heavier material? please point me in the best direction before I shop, Thanks for being here I really enjoy you're videos.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi Andria, My short answer is to check out my video here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHfUZoSOnKtnrJo In that video I discuss why I think anyone wanting an industrial machine probably actually wants a walking-foot industrial machine specifically. Yes, all walking foot machines have two separate feet. Sewing machines come in a few varieties: "drop feed," in which lower feed dogs move the material (pretty much every domestic sewing machine); "needle-feed" machines, in which the needle moves back-and forth to assist with feeding; "walking-foot," in which the feed dogs work in conjunction with the upper walking foot to feed fabric, but the needle does NOT move back and forth (this is how the Sailrite Ultrafeed machines and similar machines work); and "compound feed" or "triple feed" machines, in which the feed dogs, walking feet and the needle bar all work together to feed the fabric. When I (and most people) refer to a walking foot industrial machine, most of the time we mean a compound feed machine. There are other feeding systems, but in my experience this covers the majority of machines that most of us will encounter for general sewing. I have a strong preference for older machines. My daily driver is a Consew 206-RB1, to which I have added a servo motor and needle positioner/synchronizer. I think older, simpler machines are better for the DIY/cottage industry crowd, where high productivity rates aren't as much of a priority. Some machines I see regularly on the used marketplaces include the Consew 206, Consew 225 (no reverse) or 226 (with reverse), Juki LU562 (small bobbin) or 563 (big bobbin), Singer 111W155 (usually no reverse), and various Pfaff and Durkopp Adler machines (often more expensive than other machines). Occasionally I see Seiko, Mitsubishi and Toyota machines, but Consew, Juki, Pfaff and of course Singer are most common in my experience. To me, price and condition are more important than brand/model, unless you know you need a specific feature (like the big bobbin in the LU-563). Most sewing machines are copies of other sewing machines, and older machines generally tend to all be of better quality than newer machines. I hope that helps, feel free to ask if you have other questions. Let us know what you end up with! Thanks for watching!

[@donniemacneil3804]

I think a good indication of the worth of these machines can be found in online auctions. At least for sewing machines, the people I see at these auctions are often professionals (eg upholsterers, small production sewers, tailors etc) who have a rough idea of how much things go for. In the case of industrial machines in my area (western Canada.) Single Needle Lockstitch machines go for anywhere between 50 to 200 dollars CAD (I actually grabbed a near-mint vintage industrial for 8 bucks once.) Walking foot and specialty machines tend to be more expensive, with easily repairable models being more valuable. An Adler or Pfaff walking foot will usually go for about 600 CAD while an offbrand Bartack will get around 200 to 400 depending on its similarities to more common brands.

[@anneK3801]

I would add a caution about the online Goodwill auction. I have acquired a few machines at very reasonable prices there, but these days many machines go for much more than their local value. I think people in less metropolitan areas pay higher prices because they can get them shipped to them. I also caution that Goodwill and other online sellers sometimes have no idea how to properly pack a SM for shipping and have had major damage as a result.

[@larag4646]

I bought a run of the mill 201-2 for $150 and thought I got a good deal with how hyped up they are. But then, one day I came across a very special 1941 black side 201-2 that was also in THE cabinet. If you don't know about them, the black sides are really rare. They ran out of nickel and chrome due to WWII so the nickel/chrome pieces were blued. More common to see it on the 15-91s. When I saw the ad for it, I thought some idiot had painted the scrolled plates on it but the machine was in good shape cosmetically and I really wanted the cabinet. Got it for $30 because the machine was locked up. Stumbled across the only picture on the internet I've ever seen of another 201 with blued plates and learned what it was. Got it unlocked and purring like a kitten. It's made some halloween costumes, quilts for cancer patients, etc. It's the machine I'm most proud of because of the history it bears.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I never heard of black side 201s, that's really cool! Thanks for sharing!

[@tHaH4x0r]

I purchased a walking foot Durkopp Adler 267 for 800 euro recently, but found a part of it has gotten stuck. In the end i managed to get 450 euro compensation, and a 200 euro servo motor installed. It seems that the part is about 125 euro, so essentially get an industrial walking foot for 675 euro. Essentially the same machine you showed (which I believe is an Adler 167-73/373), except a newer version (somewhere between 1990 and 2000 I believe). So 300$ is an absolute steal, especially if it is working. Even if you gotta fix it, its still worth it. It is interesting though how it is branded 'Adler' as I think most of how they were sold is under the name 'chandler' in the US. I wanted to add something important to the price of sewing machines... Time! If you are looking to get one asap, the price will obviously be worth more than if you are just looking for a good deal.

[@dannyl2598]

Greetings, I noticed you mentioned Chandler, I found an old button sewing machine from a dry cleaners, it is a Chandler. at the time I was able to order any part I needed. The newest model looked identical to the old one.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

You make a great point about the time component; if you want a particular vintage machine, you can't just run down to the big box store (or online retailer) and buy one. The thrill of the hunt can be part of the appeal, but if you genuinely need a machine, you may have to pay up for a machine, rather than wait for a better deal. Thanks for adding to the conversation!

[@tHaH4x0r]

@@dannyl2598 I am not sure if Chandler is just a rebranded Adler, or if they also sell other brands/models non-Adler. If that Chandler is actually an Adler, then you might be lucky that the new models do have similar internals. At least for the Durkopp Adler 267 I know that the newest models made in china (after ~2000, white coating) are identical to the ones made in germany (93-2000, recognizable by the use of 'hammer' paint), which are identical to the 'first' versions from west germany (flat grey, also sold as Adler 267 before the merger with Durkopp). I think they are even somewhat identical to the 167, especially for most of the working parts (not the control levers etc).

[@bbrachman]

Jason: I think I am getting confused with all the different machines you say you have and use. Would you consider making a short video on the machines you currently depend on and what purposes you use them for? I would be really helpful to me to see the types of machines you use with different materials. Then I can tell what I really need to look for. Thanks in advance.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi Bruce, My video "why do I have so many sewing machines" from a couple of years ago pretty much covers this topic, you might want to check that one out!

[@PlainsPrepper]

Wish I could find industrial machines in my area that cheap.

[@10AntsTapDancing]

The Bernina listed for $2500 is a good machine but not worth that. I used one when I worked in an alteration business and mended workmen's overalls and it's very reliable. It has zig zag but it's not a walking foot. I'd be happy to add it to my collection but I'm in New Zealand lol. I bought a new industrial walking foot machine for $NZ1800 because down under most of the old machines are pretty worn out and hard to get parts for. I have a Singer Lotus 66K treadle in awesome condition that just needs the belt replacing and a clean up.

[@veronicavidmar2532]

I just found you and watch 1 video and plan on watching more ok I got a machine I can not find it anywhere I can see made in Japan and says New Rotary along the top I've found other Rotary name just not this one it's beautiful I know I'm missing parts but I thought maybe fixing it and using it I'm a novice at all of it, well what I'm getting at is where do I find info on it and I also want to know what you sew ? Thank You Veronica louisville ky

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi Veronica, Thanks for checking out my channel! I mostly sew utility items like backpacks, pouches and other bags, although if you look deep enough in my channel I've sewn almost anything that isn't clothing. I am not familiar with "New Rotary" as a brand ("New Home" is a vintage brand, and "White Rotary"). I would look around/under the machine and see if there are any other identifying markings, numbers, etc. There were many, many different brand of sewing machines back in the day, and some may have not been successful enough to have any online support or information. Many were copies of existing designs, though, so if you can figure out what parts the machine uses, you might be able to source them from other brands. Good luck!

[@redsnapper4745]

I have a Singer AK126808 in excellent condition but am missing the power cord.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! "AK126808" is the serial number for the machine. Many of Singer's vintage machines don't have the model number displayed on them anywhere, and for some reason DO prominently display the serial number, leading to a lot of confusion. I looked it up on ismacs.net and it appears to be a 1951 Singer, maybe a Model 66. (Ismacs only lists the class of machine, so it's a class 66 - meaning it uses a class 66 bobbin - but it could be any model that uses that bobbin. I don't know what other models used the class 66 in 1951.) If you google image search Singer Model 66 you should be able to determine if that's what you have. This might help you find a compatible power cord or to value the machine if you are looking to sell it. I am not super familiar with 66s, but I believe a power cord should still be available online. I hope that helps, good luck!

[@johncpen2000]

I have a nesco Precision de luxe pedal operated machine....any thoughts on value? it and its cabinet are rough

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! I believe Nesco is one of many Japanese brands of machines that were generally Singer copies. From what I've read, many of those Japanese machines were very well made and are fairly highly regarded. To my (limited) understanding, there were many, many brand names produced, likely by a few manufacturers, and records are not abundant. I don't know if any of the machines are particularly collectible or valuable to anyone. To me, they would be similar to a same-vintage Singer machine; Maybe $50-100 for something very nice, under $50 for a functioning but worn machine, over $100 only if it is in amazing condition and/or particularly sought-after. (These are my own vague valuations, based only on my opinion.) I would love to have a Nesco brand machine, because Nesco is one of my cat's many nicknames!

[@nonelost1]

In 2020, I gave away a working but wonky circa 1968 vintage Singer "FashionMate" 237 table machine to anyone who was willing to use it to make masks (once they get it running right). It was a trash pick I found BY (not IN) a dumpster months before. Somebody answered my online ad and picked it up. The KZbin promo is still online ("Free Singer model 237 sewing machine for mask maker"). Now, I found a Sears Roebuck "Edgemere" (machine only, no table) that says "Patented Nov 30, 1886". It's black and bronze, not "locked up", and appears to have not sat outside. Though it doesn't run and I believe there are parts missing. What do you know about this?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

ISMACS has some info on that machine, unfortunately I have very little knowledge about machines prior to about the 1930s (I'm being charitable to myself to imply I have any significant knowledge about ANY sewing machines). That's very good of you to donate the 237 to good use!

[@lamarrharding4776]

I understand that a Singer 201 was a very expensive straigh stitch sewing machine , with a drop in bobbin. What is so. desirable about it, when the 318 does so much more?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! I assume you mean the 319? I haven't used a 319, I believe Alexander Dyer did a video on one that he spoke highly about and made the same sort of statement compared to the 201. A lot of the mythos about the 201 is probably just marketing; not necessarily from Singer themselves, just proud owners and fans (like me). The 201 is undoubtedly a great machine, and the simplicity of straight-stitch only can be a good thing.Would most of us be able to tell the difference between a stitch from a 201 and one from a 319 in a blinded test? Probably not. One of these days I'll get my hands on a 319 to try, I've seen a few over the years but never at the right price or time. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@russdanger448]

You forgot to mention the sentimental value that alot of people add that you cant put a price on. LOL!

[@katielove9932]

And that's a bunch of balogne.

[@3llement]

Just because they're frozen and locked up, does not mean they are useless junk. If you're too lazy to work on them to get them working, there are a lot of people who are not.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

If there are lots of people who are not "too lazy" to get these machines working, why weren't they there to take these machines before I got to them? I certainly haven't had any inquiries to take these machines off my "lazy" hands so someone else can get them working again. Not that it matters, but the problems with these particular machines extend beyond being locked up, most are missing parts as well, and some of those parts are not readily available, and if they are available are not free. I understand that you have no idea what you are talking about and are just being a troll, but try not to be so lazy about it, would you?

[@asurya8797]

Hello👋, could you advise me a sewing machine that is not too loud. I have been on a hunt for a sewing machine I can use at night. Are vintage machines sometimes better when it comes to noise? Is there a way to diminish the noise of my current one? Thank you

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi, In my experience, the older, all metal sewing machines, like the Singer 201, Singer 15-91, or my Pfaff 260 (not all-metal internally, but a stout metal body) run about as quiet as it gets. Even a treadle sewing machine makes some mechanical noise, so there is a limit on how quiet a machine can run, but I've used my vintage domestic machines while my wife was sleeping, and we're still married 😂 I hope that helps, thanks for watching!

[@asurya8797]

@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I will have a look at those metal ones. Much appreciated 😊

[@albinocavewoman]

Those other 3 Singers look like 66s from various times along their production line. "How much is my machine worth?" is my least favorite question. It all depends on what you are willing to pay for it. That said, most machines are worth $25.00.

[@benjamindover7399]

Just because something is old, does Not mean it is an antique. Old sewing machines are like opinions, there are Very many, and most are trash.

[@zorozoro6750]

How about a rare Messerschmitt #603 (werk) model #455-1196 sewing machine in so-so condition ?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Great question! I don't think I was aware Messershmitt made sewing machines (or I've forgotten lol), but that's the tricky thing about collectibles and antiques; some can be worthless, while a similar item can be worth a fortune. Maybe someone who knows more will read this and chime in. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@PotaSkylight007]

Hi, I buy Singer "New Family" 1865-1883...for 30€..on some Garage sell... I have no idea how much that really Worth.. (i'ts not locked)

[@michaelthompson9127]

I watched this video multiple times now and it's very well put together and very helpful for buyers and sellers. It can be very frustrating when you want to purchase a machine and the seller is way off in price. I just put a $50 offer in and wait for the offended sellers blood pressure to rise to the point that their thumbs are texting so fast and angrily that they are misspelling words while they are telling me how crazy I am and that I can take my money to McDonald's and get breakfast instead of worrying about buying their $350 very valuable antique singer 66 that I obviously know nothing about because I'm a low rent scumbag. I just shake my head and hand my wife's phone back to her lol and message them on my phone a few days later and offer $40

[@mikekeogh]

Put the serial number in here and you'll find the model year of manufacture and numbers produced in that batch. ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks Mike! I'm embarrassed to say that I hadn't yet thought to go to ismacs. I've been tripping over these machines all week and haven't had a chance to do anything with them lol.

[@2Fac34031]

I have a 1902 singer how it came and I have a 1800 american

[@scottstevens3045]

I guess I need also a 201 the way you brag about the model. It looks a lot like my 241-11 I’ve been using for 25 years not knowing about similar models except mine is self oiling

[@michaelthompson9127]

Are you a paraglider pilot? The t-shirt leads me to believe you might be.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I had to go back to watch to see what shirt I was wearing :) Funny coincidence, but no, I am not a paraglider pilot. I have a fairly strong desire to try powered paragliders (no mountains in Florida to launch from), but not enough to push me over the edge to actually invest the time and (especially) money into what I know will be a life-absorbing hobby. I spent much of the 1990s as a skydiver, and flew the hotshot high-performance canopy of the day, the Performance Designs Stiletto 97. I don't particularly miss freefall, but I miss flying that canopy, and paragliding/speedflying/PPG seem like they could all scratch that itch! I also have about 30 hours of flight training in light sport aircraft with a few solos, but at some point the cost became more than the reward, so I stopped short of obtaining my license. Unfortunately/fortunately, these days I have too many other interests competing for my time and money. (i.e., fishing, free diving, spearfishing, distance running, more fishing, standup paddle boarding, kayaking, fishing from kayak or standup paddle board, and also fishing.) Regarding the shirt, AustriAlpin are the manufacturers of (among many other things) the Cobra buckles I have used on several of my packs. They partially sponsored my backpack tutorial series a few years ago, and sent the shirt along with the buckles they provided. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!

[@michaelthompson9127]

@@thejasonofalltrades that's awesome I am a paramotor pilot

[@debraclogston9379]

Speaking of old ladies. Can you put a walking foot on it? 2) will it blow up the motor? 3) i have a lot of time on my hands.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! Yes, you should be able to attach a walking foot attachment to older machines, I've used one on a 201 and it worked well. It should have no adverse effect on the motor. Thanks for watching!

[@debraclogston9379]

@@thejasonofalltrades YeeeHaw!

[@lisareed5669]

$250. OMG.

[@ronalddaub5008]

Fur machine is different

[@shedactivist]

If a sekker can't describe/identify the machine they are selling and want 100 bucks you know they are guessing the value.

[@davidvines6498]

You fail to look at the value of the cabinets. On another channel the least expensive cabinet cost over $250 in the early 60’s. They are made of real wood and can easily be “restored” to a presentable look.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi David, I see sewing tables and cabinets on online classifieds in my area routinely for $10-15, often free. As far as I can tell, they have virtually no value, and in fact when I buy used machines I prefer they NOT be in a table/cabinet, because they take up too much space. I have a few tables that I can swap machines in when needed.

[@davidvines6498]

@@thejasonofalltrades I understand what you are saying and I was the same as you. A machine without the case or cabinet. However, a bought my sister what I thought was a toy sewing machine, a Centennial 221, for $10 at a thrift store. The case was broken, latches, and to get a Featherweight case restored cost an arm and a leg. I like to tinker with machines and have found that working on the older Singers can be a challenge. So, I watch a lot of youtube videos. Due to a life changing event, I find myself back home after 40 years away. I have a home but hardly any furniture. Vintage Sewing Machine Garage did a series on restoring the cabinets and in 1 cabinet he found a brochure with the various cabinet prices penciled in. Late 50’s to early 60’s and the least expensive cabinet was at $250 and most expensive was $350 for NECCHI machines. I use them as night stands. But seek the cabinets with drawers as I have none. They are made of real wood with expensive veneers. But to each his own. BTW, I want to sew leather. I have a 201, but I am contemplating a Sailrite or Cowboy. Probably new. I like the hand operated cowboy, but asks the sailrite. They cost about the same. What do you recommend?

[@debraclogston9379]

The old ladies are worth all the swearing, pounding and niggling they need in order to come back to life.I don't even mind the wrinkles! The new ones- nah. A search for a wire yielded nothing but a pile of twelve year old plastic. I got long arm fever and got caught cruising Ebay with an open wallet an an empty head. That machine got me broke in proper, in what I didn't know. Remember the Ken -Quilt crazy lady? Did you build that crane?

[@katielove9932]

You talk so vague that you sound like you don't know the price of sewing machines. So why the video?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Were you really expecting me to list every vintage sewing machine and its exact current price? The subtitle of this video is "a conceptual discussion;" I don't mean to insult you, but maybe there's a language barrier or something? If English isn't your first language, then I apologize if the intent of this video wasn't immediately apparent to you. If you are fluent in English, then I don't know what to tell you.

[@AskFereidoon]

Too much babbling !

[@thejasonofalltrades]

How exactly did you expect this discussion to be presented?

[@AskFereidoon]

@@thejasonofalltrades Just talk about the price of each type or brand, not details about the issues of each machine you've got and where you bought them from or whether they work or not, totally irrelevant to the title of the video!