How Much Money Can You Save Hanging Drywall Vertically or Horizontally - Taping And Finishing

[@gregvancom]

I've already got some GREAT comments and keep them coming. It looks like we have a winner and it's the vertical drywall.

[@gregvancom]

I removed two comments that didn't make sense and accidentally removed this one so I thought I would repost it, because it is helpful. 1time4yurmind gregvancom Butt joints are much more labor intensive and won’t be as nice a finish as a tapered edge joint. It’s much easier to fill a valley with compound and make it flat than it is to make a hump look flat. Also running vertically you have individual seams, which are quick to finish. Running horizontally the seams are interconnected, which requires additional time for curing adjacent seams. The difference in amount of drywall required between the two strategies is insignificant as you point out, but the difference in labor to finish the drywall is substantial.

[@kennethberndt6561]

Overall my philosophy of hanging drywall is quality through minimizing butt joints, reducing drywall waste and minimizing taping and mudding. When calculating drywall needs on each wall of a house, these three things need to be taken into consideration. Starting at 4:14, I would have do disagree with some of these drawings that would include windows and doors. As someone who has hung drywall horizontally in multiple buildings, I always took the time to minimize butt joints whenever possible. From your "door-window-door" part of the wall, as long as it was under 16' , I would run with one long piece of drywall with no butt joints. Any longer section between the doors and I would have put the butt joint directly under the window on a stud to minimize the length of the butt joint. In residential settings there are very few walls that are going to be over 16 ft with the exception of larger family rooms and garages which eliminates most butt joints. I will see other drywallers in my area (for this reason) run their drywall vertically in garages to eliminate butt joints in the walls (of course ceilings weren't discussed at all in this video - kind of hard to avoid butt joints on ceilings). (On your 10' wall) I would also try to run 4x16' sections along the ceiling first and leave the two foot seam along the floor. Again I would try to prevent any butt seam along the top of any door or window because there seems to be more movement in the headers as the moisture dries out and causes them to shrink causing movement and cracking along butt joints in this area. For those individuals new to hanging drywall it should be mentioned that there are 4' by 8',10',12',14,16' lengths, plus when working with a 9-ft wall you can buy 54" by 8',12',16' which can eliminate an additional 1-ft horizontal seam. Great video as always Greg. There is so much to be said about hanging drywall and your video is a good introduction. I would also mention that anyone hanging drywall should talk to the person who is going to be mudding it to make sure you're doing it to their specifications as well. (Shimming etc)

[@chriscolameco6850]

Great advice thank you

[@Tattooclownfish71]

Hi am a beginner but my friend said to stagger the sheets to make the ceiling stronger from cracks ? Is it true do the ceiling first the the walls ? Any help or tricks would be highly appreciated from all you experts I have no clue but am having fun rebuilding my mobile home lol 1975 everything ugly brown inside lol

[@johnepavek]

Not all drywall joints are equal. The factory bevel takes much less time/mud to finish. Any time you have a butt joint you are looking at a minimum of one and likely two more coats of mud.

[@gregvancom]

I will have to concede, the man I spoke to years ago was right.

[@kennethwilliams2738]

Standing them up means I go all the way to the top every 4 ft vs every 12 ft. I'm a 20 year pro, It all gets 3 coats, even a flat joint. You can get away with 2 coats on a commercial job, but if I'm using a 2 coats system, everything gets 2 coats, even the butt joints. Laying it down is always best practice. That long flat joint screams (fast) when you can do it from the floor.

[@shaunapoulsen7160]

What would be your input on 12'ft tall walls using 12' sheets of vertical drywall.

[@purpleman1360]

I do apologize but this will be long, so I will be breaking it down a bit, so its not many paragraphs but more of a bulletin style answer(s) and example(s). I am NOT a professional drywall installer however have done drywall installation many times in remodels, renovations and additions, with that being said: 1. Drywall in a vertical instillation regardless of addition length of taping would be preferable, due to the absence of "butt" joints. With the absence of a butt joint the only real drywall work is in the tapered seams, which typically do not create a bump out (crown) on the surface where the joints meet. I will be omitting screw and/or nail indentations. 2. Butt joints take more skill, material, and labor to taper the crown (bump out) created by this kind of joint that is inevitable wherever the none tapered ends of the drywall meet. Butt joints always create a crown, once drywall compound and tape is applied to to the seam. Therefore, this crown created by the butt joint must me "feathered" (tapered out) anywhere from 12"~36", 6" - 18" to each side of the butt joint. The framing dictates the distance required. This feathering out of the crown is purely astatic, yet by doing so it extends the individual perception of being somewhat flat. This is contrary to the fact that at these spots the wall is actually thicker. I don't know many people that take a 6' - 8' level and place them horizontally on their walls to see if they are actually flat, since they preserve it as flat. 3. Take this example for what it is worth, since it happened many years ago when KZbin was in its infancy. Lets take the example of replacing a kitchen counter top, or any other long length of cabinets with a counter. Not all homeowners have the financial means to have it professionally measured and installed with quarts, granite, or any other higher end stones, therefore; they elect to DIY it. The project is more than feasible to accomplish with layer(s) of plywood, particle board, or medium density fiber board (MDF), toped with melamine sheets with the adhesion of contact cement. Most common example or experience that most homeowners will have with butt joints, is when installing or having counter tops installed. Homeowners looking to install new counter tops themselves no doubt will deal with this frustration since they will measure the length of the wall, depth of the cabinet, plus whatever overhang they may desire and cut the appropriate size. They place their cuts up on the cabinets and push against the wall, and if you were unfortunate enough to have a butt joint along this length, will realize that your cuts do not meet flush against the wall. This is more prevalent if your counter area has a corner. Once pushed into the corner flush, the butt joint area will illustrate the crown (bump out, hump) you have in your wall by the end of the counter having angled your counter farther from the wall. Both of these can be fixed by scribing the counter to the wall and re-cutting, yet this issue persists with s 3" or 4" backsplash. The backsplash usually has more flexibility in it and can be pushed into acceptable position and finished off with caulking to fill in the gap(s), hopefully no more than 3/16".

[@unsaltedlife5998]

Yes I agree. End or butt joints are harder to tape and can create a bow in the wall so if it’s in a kitchen area it can create more problems than it’s worth.

[@quail333]

@@unsaltedlife5998 AESTHETIC

[@andrewmacgregor8717]

There may potentially be some savings, don't know. When I was very young and watched professionals installing drywall in our new house they were running the sheets horizontally. I asked why, because my dad always installed them vertically. The reply was that it was much easier to visually conceal the horizontal joints because there was just one at 4 feet above the floor and if you used sheets long enough to span the length of the wall there should be very few vertical joints to have to feather out. Over the last 45 years I've seen it done both ways, and can see the difference in longer walls. I prefer horizontal tape joints.

[@jedidiah5131]

My friend had a very tight stairwell with a right angle, we had to cut the 4x8 sheets down to 43" inches in width and her ceiling beams where 36 " apart, (a gambrel ceiling)what a pain. Her money was limited so she didn't want to add any more 2x6 rafters or wall studs, big mistake lol. It was very hard to come up with a layout for two novices....I'm happy to have found this channel, everything is explained in simple terms that I can understand, Thanks.

[@gregvancom]

You are absolutely welcome and thanks for sharing your story and I never get tired of the kind words from viewers like yourself.

[@mikimiki195]

What is better for basement drywall vertical or horizontal?

[@gregvancom]

I would hang it horizontal, but if you're not good at finishing drywall you might hang it vertical to reduce the amount of joints that won't be tapered on edges. They're usually easier to finish.

[@mikimiki195]

@@gregvancom thanks

[@rickanthony8259]

I'm building a 45 by 38' residential hanger in my backyard I'm doing much of the work myself. Being that all 4 walls are supportive I guess the best thing to do would be to place the syou rock horizontally my question is should I stagger the sheet rock?

[@maagu4779]

My house was built in the 1950's, all with vertically hung sheetrock, on all walls. Replacing these vertical boards. Can I keep them vertical over horizontal strapping, for simplicity due to the staggered vertical framing methods that were used when the house was built? Can you go vertically on a load bearing wall? At 4:50 you show a wall with windows and doors. Is the wall with both windows and doors, load bearing?

[@borys444]

Isnt it easier to coat 1 big butt joint running across the entire wall rather then 6 or 7joints running vertically on the same wall?

[@dumptruckintruthduke]

Run vertically and you have no butt joints, only tapered joints.

[@borys444]

@@dumptruckintruthduke again that brings me back to my question in taping multiple joints vertically versus 1 joint horizontally? Which is easier and y?

[@jeffreyklaum13]

@@borys444 Taping butt joints takes more time and care than a tapered joint. I always hang as to avoid as many butt joints as possible. Whatever that calls for. Vertically, horizontally or a combination.

[@boots7859]

Excellent video. Just had new drywall done in my living room, and they cut a decent amount of taping by using 12' sheets.

[@gregvancom]

Good stuff!

[@helenjones6978]

Great video.... less cutting and wastage of material is always good to understand.

[@gregvancom]

Very true!

[@00jlove]

Hello, I'm in the middle of a commercial construction job rgt now and I have 10' high walls. So my sheet rock is 4x10 5/8 thick. I'm having my sheet rocker to hang vertical it definitely seems to save and not as many pieces to cut. Everytime they throw away what looks like good sheets it hurts my feelings. Everything is so expensive and sometimes I have to just leave the area rather then watch them toss the sheet rock.

[@gregvancom]

I hear yeah and sometimes it's better not to be around on trash day.

[@Kenobi487]

So In a basement is it safe to say i can go vertical with my drywall. I’m limited on the size of sheets i can use with access to the basement. I have 8 feet ceilings.

[@gregvancom]

If the drywall isn't required for structural value, then you can run it in any direction. Some homes use it to make walls laterally stronger.

[@scooterp7009]

Planning makes a difference!

[@gregvancom]

Absolutely!!!

[@silversagerae6353]

Yes mathematically the math adds up but... there is a HUGE difference in time, tools. Skill, materials, and difficulty between finishing butt joints & flat joints (recessed) butt joints require WAY more. The difference in butt joints is more relevant than just lf of joints.

[@tablatronix]

I am walling my 12x24x8 workshop, mostly solo as a newb, should I use 4x12 or 4x8 vertical to make this easier? Or will I regret 4x12 when I break my (already broken) back ?

[@gregvancom]

I use 4x8 sheets and half inch thick when working alone and like to run them horizontal.

[@carverdahlin2728]

Now with 54" board and 14ft sheets, horizontal the way to go. Most of the time it is less labor because u can line up the butt joints over windows and doors. Vertical rails sometimes need to be trowelled like a butt joint anyway due to twisted lumber. Plus boxing a Vertical joint is harder than a horizontal joint. Also on a large wall with lots of sunlight, Vertical joints can cause joint flashing way easier as well

[@purpleman1360]

Continued: 4. You must also consider the material attaching to. In commercial metal studs are common while in most residential consist of lumber. This consideration is due to the expansion and contraction of the framing material due to temperature, humidity, the structures envelope. The seasons the structure will experience is also a determining factor. 5. If openings such as doors and windows are within the wall it is not recommended to install drywall over these area (not all the time) and then cut out the opening. Although easier in thinking it is not always cost effective. Yet the bigger issue is if the joints are close to the corners of these openings is where you will have extreme likelihood of cracks from your seems, since they are the weakest points. Also comes the unneeded complication of installing trim and casings around your doors and windows with the build up of drywall compound and tape that will skew the angles of your miters. Even if your seems are under or too close to the casings and trim by simply using brad nails (which are common) to attack them, could and most likely cause the joint to break, be it tapered or butt joint. 6. Sorry to cut it short but must get ready for work shortly hope this will help and if not just comment, not sure when I'll get back to any comments

[@gregvancom]

I don't know where to start, but the butt joints often require more work, lumber does expand, but doesn't always create problems and excellent point about the joint compound building up around doors that might require some type of a jamb extension or if you're using prefabricated doors that need to slip around the drywall then this could definitely be a problem. You might also have the record for the longest comment.

[@michaelmedeiros2089]

I don't understand what you mean by not installing drywall over these areas such as doors and windows. What else are you going to install besides drywall? I'm sort of a beginner to drywall. I work with metal however I hang sheets up here and there. I currently just installed the seems in the top middle section of the door because everyone told me it would crack above the side of the door and I have seen these cracks already. I'm just wondering what else can a person do if you can't place sheetrock above or on the side due to cracking? Thanks for I appreciate it.

[@HCkev]

As someone who has no experience mudding and finishing walls trying to learn for completing a project, I'm thinking putting 8' drywall sheets vertically for a 8' tall room would make it much easier for taping and mudding, since there will only be vertical joints, rather than T joints. I'm also thinking that if I don't do a good enough job taping/mudding and the seams are still slightly visible when light is shining on the wall, it's probably going to be a bit less apparent if there are only vertical joint. I might be wrong though.

[@jnicemiz]

Get longer sheets. 10', 14', 16'.. that way on MOST walls in most rooms, you literally only have one horizontal, factory edge joint in the middle of the wall. You can get 54" wide sheets for 9ft ceilings. This is one of the main reasons pros hang horizontally.. it can greatly REDUCE the number of joints and joint taping length. There are other reasons which are equally as beneficial. This video assumes 4'x8' sheets, which no professional uses unless the room is very small (i.e. a bathroom), or the configuration of the house/stairs prevents the ability to get larger sheets into the room.

[@rsbolin]

I have a 14'L x 10'H wall with one outlet. What is better to do? Hang vertical 4' x 12' sheets, or horizontal 4' x 12' sheets? A drywall professional will mud, tape, etc. I will hang the sheets.

[@gregvancom]

I would ask the drywall finisher. If I tell you to run them sideways, they might get mad. You can also get 10 foot dry wall if you're going to run them up and down.

[@rickanthony8259]

I'm building a 45 by 38' hanger my backyard. I'm doing a lot of the work myself to save some money. Being that all 4 walls are a structural seems like I should go horizontal but do I need to stagger the joints?

[@randyhartman2768]

The problem with vertical joints that go from floor to ceiling is the shadows you will see at every joint. Going vertical may save money but you may not be happy with the outcome.

[@gregvancom]

I've seen shadows on horizontal breaks also.

[@nickalvarez2622]

@@gregvancom but they are less visible then vertical joints .

[@vmega44]

Vertically reduces butt seams which can be time consuming if you want or need a smooth finish without humps in the wall

[@jeremystone56]

I would say there are a couple different things if you tape butt joints and run a straightedge acrossed it you're going to see the hump which you will not have with bevels. TimeWise you would tape Flats then wait for it to dry then tape Corners wait for them to dry and then tape bevels and wait for them to dry. Running the drywall vertically would save on all flat taping the process can be done faster

[@jeffreyklaum13]

How about running it vertically for the reason to avoid butt joints?

[@gregvancom]

Yes that seems to be a big advantage.

[@howardlee53]

Can you do a video on layout of windows and doors to minimize the taping of drywall. Thanks.

[@gregvancom]

I will put that on my list of videos to be made future and definitely something architects and home builders should consider as a method for saving money.

[@fevgg]

My case: ceiling height is 8.5 feet. Hanging drywall vertically I can use 9 feet drywall I can save my time on taping vs. hanging it horizontally. If I use 54 inch drywall I can save money: regular 4x9 feet sheet is $19 vs. 54"x8' is $29. Plus, I have studs spacing 24" and walls are not structural

[@gregvancom]

Sounds great and thanks for sharing.

[@curlyhum1276]

the horizontal seam will not be supported like a full stud shoulder to screw into? Hello? but point taken, as well the issue of installing solo needs attention top bottom ezer, on its side on floor ez but when you stack the second sheet can be tricky with just on man install? best to let a pro do your work. drywall sucks big do to sanding dust issues very bad, i say hire it out save time and money.

[@matthewsaltzman5573]

Butt joints are way more labor, especially if you're going to do them properly. Which is to wedge them out, then backfill with setting compound prior to taping. And then if you're going to need a level 4 or 5 finish with no texture, you're floating out 12 to 18 inches each side of the seam.

[@THEKACK123]

Finishing butts can be more problematic so vertical hanging make sense! But where im at it is code to hang horizontal.

[@sketchybuilder]

ALWAYS an argument over which is better. BUT in our country of NZ, we have sheets up to 6m long, so are selected for those longer walls, making for WAY less joint totals. Also we have standard sheets of 1.2m wide AND 1.35m wide (called Wide-line - for good reason), for walls up to 2.7m in height. Over 2.7m high and we use standard width sheets with an additional part sheet at the top of the wall, but NEVER a strip in the middle of the wall, making all the horizontal joints with a taper.

[@brokenarrowez]

In the past, vertical drywall would become wavey and look ugly. Vertical drywall hanging was forbidden in my area.

[@gregvancom]

Very good point.

[@hmong_keeb_kwm]

The reason for vertical drywall is to avoid having to deal with butt joint. If your not good or consistent about your mudding then is better to go vertical to avoid butt joint and that's mostly the biggest reason why people do it that way.

[@gregvancom]

I do have other videos at our website that might help and sometimes you can use the roof plumbing vent pipes to unclog drains. Maybe call a few different plumbers to find better prices and suggestions.

[@RobbieRad]

Got to consider that a butt seam is going to take more time/ mud to flush than a finished seam will. But in places that are structural it should almost always be horizontal.

[@kylestevens1811]

For those commenting on butt joints and how they are more work. Do you not taper your butts with a razor before hanging? This makes it pretty easy to tape and bed in one shot. Final coat on round 2 and touch up at the end.

[@gregvancom]

What is tapering your butt joints, I've never seen it done.

[@chriscolameco6850]

@@gregvancom Use a rasp to plane the edge down so there's a bevel

[@kennethwilliams2738]

Coming from a 20 year pro that hangs and finishes, always lay it down (.) It's stronger, it's much faster to tape. Think about this.... If they are stood up, I have to go all the way to the ceiling with the tape every 4 feet.... When layed down, I only have to go to the top every 12 feet what ever you saved in cost of material gets wasted in extra labor. That's a big deal when your paying an hourly rate. Which is what I'm going to charge if I didn't get to hang it.

[@gregvancom]

Excellent points, but for every good argument there is also another argument. Most commercial drywall hangers who use metal studs don't agree with you and I've seen excellent results produced from both horizontal and vertical. However, I will probably always install it horizontally or laying it down is your suggesting.

[@kennethwilliams2738]

@@gregvancom commercial I've stood it up. I do prefer it layed down.... And again I tape for a living. I'd rather go all the way to the ceiling every 12 feet rather than every 4 feet. It actually saves time taping to lay it down.

[@gregvancom]

@@kennethwilliams2738 I hear yeah.

[@kennethwilliams2738]

@@gregvancom Drywall is like that though. Everyone has their preference. For me, it doesn't take any longer to do a butt joint. 2 coats is possible on butts and flats, I can do a 2 coat system. But I know 3 coats is best practice. I'm not the type to cut corners or try to make things easier. I've done same day 2 coat systems on flats and butts, even when they run into each other. Just takes a little caution, know how, and care.

[@gregvancom]

@@kennethwilliams2738 I still use a pool trowel for finishing everything but the corners and it's at least three coats for me on either one and sometimes I with practice I've got better with finishing where the joints meet in one shot, but not often.

[@cagaleched3459]

Good presentation

[@gregvancom]

Thank you

[@ricoludovici2825]

Drywaller's dream: 8x8 room with 8 foot ceiling. No doors or windows. The real advantage of running the rock horizontally is that you don't SEE more than one vertical seam on a residential wall at eye level. Vertical rock has a vertical seam every four feet, meaning TWICE as many in any wall over 9 feet long. It's not just the total length of tape and mud.

[@gregvancom]

Yes, awesome room size.

[@boots7859]

I had a drywaller tell me that when I asked the normal H vs V question.

[@mansardmanor3869]

*What you're missing* A tilt-up commercial concrete building doesn't require inner Wall shear support Commercial buildings use 6-inch exterior walls filled with metal rebars, they also have metal studs and ceiling heights are higher Vertical works here Residential are wood frame stick homes that benefit from the shear pattern support This steadily keeps house from shifting during earthquakes If one is so concerned about taping a few more feet than the safety of the residents would be concerning enough to question What other short cuts were made in the construction.

[@gregvancom]

It's difficult for me to understand what your missing suggests, when I said some of the stuff you're saying in your comment. Feel free to provide me with more details or edit your comment if you're interested in providing me and others with information I actually missed in the video.

[@zacdrilling4554]

When hanging vertically. You create a wavier wall surface, when hanging horizontal you maintain a flat wall surface and still keep the structural interior integrity of the wall. Commonly only commercial interior walls are hung vertically

[@gregvancom]

I would also like to point out that we used 5/8" 12 foot long sheets to help make flat walls.

[@boots7859]

In commercial, you are using metal studs, and everything is usually much straighter than with lumber. Hence, you can run vertical with a lot few visual issues seen. Running verticals on lumber studs will often lead to noticable depressions/bulges that then need to be mudded. I noticed this on the garage of my own house when I decided to run them vertical. Just like the pro's told me, was noticable, even when all painted white. No big deal for a garage, however in general outside of commercial it probably won't save much in the long run.

[@dougstewart3546]

(2Cents) That is a fantastic and helpful video. A great idea and extremely practical.

[@gregvancom]

That was more like "four cents" and definitely something else to think about in the construction industry.

[@kennethwilliams2738]

There is another advantage to laying it down. Believe it or not Drywall is an illusionists game. Nothing is actually flat, and it's harder to make a flat joint appear flat than It is a butt joint. If you lay it down you won't notice the flat joint because it is close to eye level and your looking at a horizontal joint. Stand up board is a lot harder to do a quality taping job on.

[@randykephart3661]

Butt joints we tend to avoid them

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for sharing and good point.

[@allconstruction1]

I bean in the industry for more than 35 years and I bean told by infinite structural engineer s and drywall company builders that drywall has no structure support at all only screws hold a piece of cardboard and plater...it's a part to hold more or less studs straight. If structures fails drywall won't matter Wich way you installa it even side ways!

[@gregvancom]

I'm not a structural engineer, but can tell you that I've had to deal with drywall nailing schedules, which suggests that this would provide additional strength in Southern California. Where are you located and have you ever seen any nailing schedules for drywall?

[@billsmith9249]

I would disagree with those engineers. Let's look at this example. When you buy a cheap book shelf that you have to assemble yourself, and you have the frame all in place and then start on the insides, it still is not structurally sound, and if you try to stand it up, it may collapse (depending on the material). However, you take that exact same bookshelf, and then add that flimsy cardboard backing and throw some small brad nails in it... then you can not only stand it up but it will not collapse on its own and will even hold moderate amount of weight... and all you did was add a cheap flimsy backing. :/ I understand a house it quite different and each wall has been engineered for load bearing and such... and true, you don't need drywall to keep the house standing up or to keep the roof from collapsing.... but if you want to see for yourself, during construction of a wall, go to the edge of that wall (open edge with no load on top) and shake that wall. It will bend and warp slightly. Try that same movement AFTER the drywall was installed and you'll find that wall will bend and warp much less.

[@tonyc7352]

@@gregvancom I've seen several of your videos and like them, thank you. I always thought those nailing schedules were only for a minimum number of screws to properly secure the drywall to the studs/joists. I think If the wall has shear requirements, for either structural wind or seismic, the drywall, however oriented, wouldn't be included as any part of that engineering.

[@greglisco]

Vertices is always better!!!

[@adamcook2961]

You're not considering factory taper finishing vs butt joint finishing. Vertical offers all nice factory taper seams which are easier to finish by far

[@gregvancom]

I've heard it both ways.

[@fishbonenetworks]

I have a tendency to forget that there truly is a structural component to drywall. “It’s only drywall”.

[@gregvancom]

Exactly

[@jimurrata6785]

I think if I had to really deal with seismic code (as in Cali) it would probably be worth it to glue & screw rather than have screw to fill every 8". But I'm in Connecticut, so I really don't know what is up on the fault lines...

[@michaelwade8458]

But joints take an extra coat, also you use drywall that's the same height as your lid

[@ffejkk37]

Horizontal drywall could leave lumps in the wall due to multiple intersecting lines. Plus additional time feathering larger areas.

[@gregvancom]

True

[@davidhinkle2207]

You never explained the number of tape joints in each.

[@gregvancom]

I gave it to you in feet, let me know if there is something I missed and maybe watch the video again.

[@mobaumeister2732]

Hanging drywall horizontally for structural reasons is almost pointless. If a structural wall requires drywall for additional structural integrity then it is not a well built wall. I know framers that will even railroad outer sheathing, because it is proven that it’s more about adequate fasteners than spanning studs. The main reason to hang drywall horizontal is to hide bowing and uneven studs.

[@keanemclaughlin8182]

With any wall over 48" wide but less than 96" it makes sense to go horizontal. You will never have a joint over 8 feet.

[@user-dy6gb6zc2l]

One thing you didn't talk about was that butt joints are way more of a pain in the ass and more time consuming to feather out.. Wich is the #1 reason one would go vertical. The #2 reason is, 1 guy can hang vertical sheets all day. Im sure some or even most bad ass drywall guys hang any which way alone but that ain't me babe. Never going to be.

[@gregvancom]

I didn't talk about it, because most of the finisher's I work with don't seem to have problems with either joint.

[@meemee-nj9rl]

It's all vertical in Europe!

[@gianthills]

but if you go all vertical they will likely crack.

[@HomeGrownPyro1]

Not true I did my entire house in a combination of horizontal and vertical and don’t have a single crack in 15yrs

[@abruptlyblunt]

hanging drywall vertically is way easier for one person to do.....

[@hlneira]

Please remove the butt out of the middle of the wall, it does not go there. Vertical and Horizontal has everything to do with building code and NOT more of less mud. Commercial Vs Residential, how ever horizontal can be use in commercial and residential depending on the length of hte ceiling and wall. HOW ever vertical cannot be use on commercial walls due to fire stopping reasons, but on ceilings is a yes .

[@tashtant]

Seems to meee, that the easy way is better.

[@gregvancom]

The easy way might not be the best, but it will be easier:)