How The $50 Solar Water Heater Works And How To Build It

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Because quite a few of you were asking for more details on the construction of the panel after the last video ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3emkGxpebySjrM ) There will be a more comprehensive step by step construction tutorial coming out before too long, this should hopefully help get you by til then. Any questions let me know.

[@offgridrooster]

Thank you! ☮️🙏☯️

[@brianhayes7357]

Yes, thank you!

[@Huibelpaard]

Looking forward to it!

[@manone805]

Thanks

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Cheers! Appreciated.

[@tiggeroush]

Nice, but closer to $500 than $50. The copper tube alone is over $50. I can find 50ft for $97, and this requires 30 ft. The tank is also over $75.

[@juncusbufonius]

My solar panels are looking pretty cheap by comparison at £100 for 260w

[@rklauco]

Would it not make sense to insulate the upper reservoir as much as possible to avoid heat loss to surrounds? Anyway, excellent low-tech but high-gain project, I love it.

[@jonathany1240]

It would, I generally use these guides as a basic skeleton for a project. Generally you can get more efficiency out of a higher cost construction and there are a number of caveats with construction and implementation of such a system.

[@jimcrelm9478]

@@jonathany1240 Just pack dry straw, birch bark, pine needles etc. round the north, east and west sides of the tank.

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Yeah definitely. It's not really focused on in this brief build guide, but the systems I've made so far have had boxes around the barrels which I basically just stuff full of as much insulation as will fit. Also on the back of the panel, tho it's slightly less important as the panel is all surface area so kind of impossible to keep from cooling once it loses the sun. But the barrel could theoretically keep heat day on day if done right.

[@Maxim.Teleguz]

@@OpenSourceLowTech can you show us videos of you builds

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

@@Maxim.Teleguz There's a couple for other technologies on the channel, this one will also get a full step by step before too long.

[@daveswords2112]

Looking forward to the panel details for heating the water as it's so different to what we do in the uk. Fabulous idea big sheet of metal to hear up in the sun and a small gap for water to flow thru... Genius. Thanks

[@DAN_CLERGYMAN]

Thanks for the ideas man!

[@wulfhart2653]

Wonderful? Do you have any idea of the weight of the installation ?

[@mohandeshmane2924]

Even after replacing the rings the water is leaking but in12-14 tubes.Should I again remove the rings and refit the tubes?How to ensure that the rings are correctly fitted ?

[@AlfredoOrellana-g2g]

Any testimonials?

[@stargenes03]

What application do you for that simulation

[@emmanuelpoku8757]

can i get the card drawing for each of the parts

[@serta5727]

Very cool project 😍

[@leonardorfanu2614]

Sorry, I was just wandering if you can get legionella in this system ?

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Under certain conditions yes, but it's fairly easily avoidable. The panel should reach at least 50C unless it's a very cold unsunny environment, which is enough to kill legionella in a couple of hours. If the system is going to be likely to not hit those temperatures for extended periods then it's possible to have the panel and tank as a closed system, so no one will end up touching the water, with a copper coil or similar heat exchanger to transfer the tank heat into the use water. Which also allows for use of antifreeze, if below zero temperatures are likely.

[@shawnkiesel5349]

What does the copper coil on the inside of the reservoir so.?

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Heat exchanger to put the heat from the top of the tank into the water to the tap. You can do without, but the main advantages are isolating the tap water from the system water, if you wanted to use antifreeze or similar, and isolating the mains pressure from the panel, which would not enjoy it.

[@EtreTocsin]

Dumb question, what do you do when you want hot water at night?And could this be used with a trough type black tank and set it on a roof to integrate the design and not look like an eye sore?

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

The header tank should stay hot for a while, depending on level of insulation. And as long as it's above the level of the panel top, you should be able to use pretty much any container you like. The max pressure in the system should just be the vertical height from the top of the tank to the bottom of the panel, ie gravity.

[@EtreTocsin]

@@OpenSourceLowTech awesome, thanks. so a trough might look better but would need an incline for better pressure…

[@nabilseoudi2910]

Well done 👍

[@peterectasy2957]

why spiral ? why not directly heat water and use it ?

[@serta5727]

Would an inverted half mirror foil work before the heating plate?

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

In what sense?

[@serta5727]

I mean like a inwards mirror trapping heat and light. Makes no sense maybe :)

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

For all intents and purposes that's what the clear glazing does.

[@serta5727]

I like this thanks 😊

[@oxfordsparky]

you want the hot return to enter at the bottom for a more even heat.

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Needs to be near the top for reasons of convection via the thermosiphon.

[@johnswift1736]

Surely the heating element should be at the bottom where the cooler water will be. Heat raises.

[@DiyEcoProjects]

Hi may i ask a few questions please? (i like ths graphics) >I get that the hot water in the header tank is insulated and acting like a heat collector. Does it need an air pressure pipe in case of overheating? >I can see that copper tubing is located at the top end of the heated water, does that mean it needs a pump to circulate the water into another water container for use?. If not, does it create enough heat by using it straight then, with mains and out into a shower head? thats interesting. Im curious about what the benefit are for using copper pipe in this way. *Ive made a few of these for festivals... Instead of having to fill the header tank by hand with water, you could have a stop cock to automatic it and it wont run dry. Usually we have mains and a T juntion for a cold water feed, the other half goes to a header tank above everything. The system is fed by gravity, cold water goes all the way down to solar panel / or wood burner input at the bottom of everything. Hot water circulates up into a holding tank (in the middle), with another T junction, of which is an air pressure pipe that goes back up located above the header tank for an emergancy steam vent. The other half comes off this T as a hot water feed. Cold water and hot water join at any shower head and or outisde kitchen sink. All the best, just curious

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

I usually drill a small hole with tape over it as a pressure release, but it's probably not strictly necessary as the panel is not quite capable of boiling the water and producing that much pressure. The copper tube heat exchanger would be fed by either mains pressure or a header tank, so a pump shouldn't be necessary unless you're drawing from a lower water source. There's a couple configurations of this, including much as you describe. Check my other videos for variations: studio.kzbin.infomFC_93DW_XQ kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2rCoaeIm9mmicU

[@DiyEcoProjects]

@@OpenSourceLowTech ok mate thank you. The hole and duck tape is a new one on me lol, so thats interesting. I can see thats a simple solution. Thanks for your links, all the best

[@nelistheron83]

Great stuff! Thank you!

[@maximofconsolini6758]

excelent, thanks

[@serta5727]

Wow very well

[@serta5727]

So cool 😎

[@serta5727]

It is incredibly simple 😎

[@juncusbufonius]

The irony is not lost on me, as someone who leans by watching, that we did not see the how of it when it was done visually only to have it show as drawings. So now there are plans without explanation and a video that does not show how. Perhaps a podcast next?

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

It's on the list of things to do a full tutorial for, but to be honest there's been a lot less interest in it than in the water and wind turbines, so I'm focusing on those primarily.

[@2point..0]

@OpenSourceLowTech Hello, I am trying to help my brother-in-law in Thailand and trying to help him to find a solution for Hot water out on his remote farm...My Wife is flying out to Thailand on April 4th and I just want to help him out...I am trying to understand 1.0 Panel - Assembly??? May I learn more please??? Liked#481 and now Subscribed!!!

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

I still need to do a video build tutorial, but the pdfs linked in the description, and this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3emkGxpebySjrM have some info on the process and materials. Any further questions my email is on the website.

[@ЕвгенийРуфус]

Во первых, вода в бочке и в нагревательным элементе быстро позеленеет из-за развития сине-зеленых водорослей. Во вторых, иметь бочку с горячей водой, но использовать только половину ее объёма - это очень глупо. В третьих из этой половины объёма горячей воды использовать не саму воду, а использовать тепловую энергию с помощью медного контура - это очень сильно снизит КПД всего устройства.

[@calysagora3615]

Normally you put anti-freeze/anti-corrosion in the closed circuit, preventing any microbial life. Chlorine, bleach, vinagre, and salts works too. The heat should kill any algea and bacteria either way. The utility circuit does not have any standing water in it, it has no chance of developing life.

[@ЕвгенийРуфус]

@@calysagora3615 ok, I agree with you - antifreeze is suitable for accumulating thermal energy. but acidic liquids will leave corrosion on the copper heat exchanger. and about the low efficiency, I have already said above.

[@trollking202]

Surface area is the key

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Essentially.

[@leoncryp8182]

Surprise it does not leak only metal washers and no sealant? silicon washers + metal washers + screw? or cheaper option is to apply some silicon tube when screwing down the metal washers. silicon is better then rubber washers, higher temp and longer lasting.

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Weather stripping or silicone round the edges under the battening, former being a bit easier to work with. Not necessary for the lattice bolts, the washers squish flat enough that no water gets through, tho do crank them as tight as possible.

[@leoncryp8182]

@@OpenSourceLowTech I was talking about the lattice bolts, great to know it does not leak, but I would still put a dab of silicon around both washers before I bolt it tight as a extra simple cheap insurance. I had a similar alu build in mine, will build it when Im back in NZ. Was initially thinking about some simple DIY spot well for the lattice, eg few car batteries , some huge capacitor , microwave transformer or just buy the cheap DIY spot welder PCB online, after seeing your success with just washers + bolt, I will give that a try as spot welder would add to the time/cost and has many electrical safety issue. The build I had in mine is 12 volt pump + solar. so the tank can be on the ground or inside the house. will mainly use it as a heat storage for eg underfloor heating. and another hotter system to preheat for hot water usage. Was even thinking about an outdoor rocket stove as a way to get away from the legal indoor firewood issues. dual close loop system, simple water boiler with aircrete for the rocketstove, Styrofoam-air-crete for insulation the indoor tank.

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

There's no reason not to gasket the lattice, tho I'd probably go with rubber washers as silicone would just get squished out the sides. I wouldn't recommend spot welding or other permanent fixture as you may need to take the panel to pieces at some point for whatever reason. Check my channel for also rocket stove stuff.

[@leoncryp8182]

@@OpenSourceLowTech Please provide link, will binge all your excellent content. Didnt know you had another channel, dont remember seeing it advertise anywhere in this channels description. Maybe put it in your future videos description and mention it on the outro eg'' if you like my content, please sub+bell, also check out my other channel rocketstove, permaculture etc.... link in the description below. Yes a permanent fixture like spot welding is a bad idea for first time projects, I would imagine I would need to take it apart when there is a fault, or just reuse it for other projects.

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

Same channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6jPm6Vvh7B4rrM

[@dantyler6907]

Been wondering: How many have ever tried to capitolize on the very same set-up for cold water? One simple valve would switch from a hot tank to a seperate, cool tank. Direct the cool water (or fluid) to serve as an AC. May be weak, but, cool your living space with cool air, and, if needed, use a window unit to make up the difference. Two tanks: one for hot, another for cool. Insulate them both, very well, and BOOM! No energ6 to heat and much less energy to cool. Winter AND summer covered. The water (or fluid) is not consumed. The lines don't wear out, the tanks don't wear out. Electric fans powered by solar-batteries. Again, if more cooling and/or heating is needed, use solar powered heaters and window AC. Compare the monthly energy cost with the cost to make this... Only takes a year or two, and, BAM! Your saving money... Your welcome, no charge.

[@JemCyrusLopez]

😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤

[@AB-C2]

This wouldn't work, as the water from the heater panel can not rise back up without a pump..... Unless you use over dimensional pipe sizes....

[@fraaggl]

this makes no sense, why make two heating system ? Why not using the hot water directly. Connecting the heated water to the bottom of the reservoir instead of the top, and therfore heating the all reservoir and using the water directly instead of having to do a heating spiral tube ?

[@OpenSourceLowTech]

The two main advantages of a copper coil heat exchanger are that it isolates the system pressure from the mains pressure, and also isolates it chemically, so you can use antifreeze or similar. But if neither are issues then the tank water can be used, yes. The panel hot water out needs to enter the tank at the top tho or it shuts down the thermosiphon loop.

[@fraaggl]

@@OpenSourceLowTech thanks a lot for your answer, i've seen on google that most of the system has exchanger and it make sense in a pressurized system or for the freezing problem you've talked about. I was thinking too simple, thanks again !