How to: 4 Steps Columnaris Treatment Fish Bacterial Infection

[@devontrigg642]

Excellent video! I would urge viewers to read the entire article to fully understand treatment and prevention of Columnaris. As well I would urge viewer to utilize AAP Spectrogram over just mixing Kanamycin Sulfate & Nitrofurazone since it is already blended for the perfect synergistic combination and is thus treated concurrently which is not possible when purchasing separately. This will result in a higher success rate as well as an often quicker success (assuming other steps are followed too).

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Good point!

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Here's another link to the item. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquatronics.html#spectrogram

[@aryah1513]

​@@AmericanAquariumInformation Do snails or shrimp have the ability to carry the bacteria in a fishless tank beyond 32 days?

[@ryblanch7690]

Carl, I just quoted you in my comment. Had no idea you were following this feed

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@ryblanch7690 Sometimes, although much less than I used as I am retiring. As well since KZbin is a poor format for interaction and sharing information links compared to forums, I am pulling back to providing more in depth help to a couple of forums (Everything Aquatic; Original and MeWe) where it is easier to interact and get all information needed including ALL water parameters, (not just the basic people get with so called "master test kits" which really anything but)

[@lostagain9386]

I'm new to fish keeping and I bought a Betta a few months ago. He was doing quite well for a while but recently I noticed slight fraying on his fins and some brown around his gills. He is still very active and, from what I can tell, doesn't appear to be struggling but he has me very worried. I'm ordering pretty much anything that can help and hoping he makes a fill recovery since he is a beautiful and playful little guy and I want him to live a long and happy life. Thank you for your help in this, I hope it works

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Make sure you follow ALL STEPS outlined in this video and the more in depth professional article it follows. Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html This includes lowering stressors and increasing mineral Cations. Cutting corners, including using these than effective discounter medications/treatments is a recipe for failure

[@slickchick5811]

Fantastic information. I just lost a favorite fish in a 4 day swing in an established (heavily stocked temporarily) tank.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Sorry for your loss!

[@devontrigg517]

Very sorry! Hope you figured the cause out to prevent it later.

[@TCgirl]

Okay I have API E.M.Erythromycin, KanaPlex, NeoPlex, Melafix and aquarium salt on hand and I cannot afford anything else right now. Will any of these work or would just the salt bath work on it's own? My fish has had this white patch on his back by his fin for a while now. It's not fuzzy but the scales are raised up a bit on the white patch and he is starting to look more bleached and fins don't look so great eather. He is still eating normal however. Also should I raise or lower the temp in his tank? It's at about 79 right now. Thank you for any guidance and for your video! I have subscribed!

[@tourismhotspots]

Nice presentation. I have one query. What is the dose of Kanamycin-Nitrofurans combination?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

It is 50/50, but the timing is different. For full instructions, please read the linked complete article in the video description. In this section specifically: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/columnaris--saprolegnia.html#%E2%80%8BTreatmentofColumnaris

[@TCgirl]

My Betta died from columnaris about a month ago. His tank has been sitting empty ever since and still cycling. I’ve turned the temperature way down while it doesn’t have fish in it. Can you tell me what do I need to do to this tank to make it safe to put a new fish in it? I can’t seem to get a straight answer anywhere. People are suggesting I throw all the plants, substrate, driftwood and everything away, empty the tank and bleach it? That seems extreme to me especially considering I know that the bacteria is always in water to begin with ? Like I said it’s been sitting here without Fish in it for over a month. Should I just keep cycling at for a while and do water changes? Would that work so that I can add a new fish to it soon? I appreciate any help you can give me!

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Good question. These type of bacteria along with others are always present in the aquarium technically. You can add fish back in, just keep in mind that different stressor can effect fish including genetics that make the fish get the disease. More important is to limit the stressor outlined in the article in the description. This all said assuming that the tank has had good husbandry. Leaving a tank empty is more for parasite infections that need a host to survive.

[@skag2021]

Thank you for this video! It helps to read the article and watch the video to learn. Regarding adding salt, the article states "If added to the main aquarium, I recommend building up to high level suggested by this study over a 2 day period AND done in a hospital tank ONLY AND NOT combined with medications as 2.5 teaspoons per gallon salt mixed with therapeutic levels of medications may be lethal to the fish too." To clarify, does this mean that wherever salt is added, I should NOT also add medication (I have spectrogram) to that same location?

[@devontrigg642]

No you can use concurrently, just be aware that certain fish tolerate slat better than others. Ina university study, Columnaris was treated with salt alone, however the level required was also lethal to many of the fish too, so while the disease was cured, many fish did not survive the treatment (think about how we treat cancer, often the treatment is as lethal as the cancer). I should also point out that the reason this study was conducted is that this was done on fish intended for human consumption. Adding antibiotics is illegal in most instances to fish being raised for human consumption. Further Reading: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/03/salt-in-freshwater-aquariums.html

[@youhdumbasf5862]

My betta has Columnaris, I have BettaMax that I'm using to treat him, the problem is today is the day the treatment was finished (the 5 day treatment) and some of the white dull patches are decreasing but it hasn't gone away. My order of Spectrogram will not be here untill Monday August 16, 2021. What should I do? I have other medications but should I give him a rest on medications or should I just wait untill Spectrogram gets here. He is eating well and seems fine. Any advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated. I do have Seachems metroplex and seachems kanaplex too if you recommend that do I put them both at the same time in the water for in tank?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

It's normal to take a break between treatments, so if you feel he can make it til Monday, I would give it a break and start back up when you get Spectrogram. If it's still showing signs of healing, you may not need the extra treatment.

[@srishtimanna6555]

Hi! I don't have access to any of the medications given in this video so I was hoping for a salt bath treatment in the tank. Can you tell me for how many days am I supposed to keep 2.54 tsp of salt per gallon in the tank for this particular disease treatment?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

The article has a link to the University of Alabama article that disuses NaCl treatment in a bare tank (it is not a bath which is different according to the Columnaris article). Please follow the links (as they are also a wealth of information) and also keep in mind that prevention is very important too including lowering stressors

[@srishtimanna6555]

@@carlstrohmeyer thanks a lot! I'll try this. I've already lost two mollies and I hope I don't lose the last two with one being a 5 month old molly. Hope it works.

[@HassanSalehabadi]

best website ever seen

[@captainkill21]

What would you recommend for Cotton Wool disease? My Red Devil has it and I've been using Kordon Rid Ich plus which is supposed to get fungal diseases. I don't know if that's the best option or should I use KanaPlex and Furan 2?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

I would follow this section of the article for best treatments. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#fungus

[@captainkill21]

So he seems to be pretty far along and I just got Furan 2 and KanaPlex in the mail today. I want to medicate as fast as possible. Can I use a wonder shell at the same time?

[@devontrigg642]

@@captainkill21 Make sure to follow all aspects of the treatment. A fresh AAP Wonder Shell used correctly definitely can help. A Medicated AAP Wonder Shell is helpful for follow-up or even used at the same time for stubborn cases. It is noteworthy that the better and more synergistic treatment is AAP Spectrogram as it allows for concurrent treatment in the correct balance of the separate purchase of Furan 2 and KanaPlex (it also supports the professional aquarium hobby/industry)

[@simplyray158]

Hey guys this was a little hard to follow as a beginner. Maybe you can show an example of the products and the bathing it could have been a little earlier. But thank you for the great research you all have done.

[@devontrigg642]

You might look into the complete Columnaris article in the details, it has links to many details such as Fish Baths

[@adoreyou7449]

I’ve been treating my betta with tri sulfa tablets (every 3 days). He’s back to how he used to behave but his fins are still a bit torn. How long to I treat him for?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

You would want to follow the instructions for how long to dose. Usually is a 10 day treatment. If it doesn't work, consider our treatment plan

[@rh-we8ix]

I had a slow strain outbreak in my 200 gallon about a year ago that forced me to tear it down and treat in a 75. I treated them as described here for a month and the only loss was a 7 year old Silver Dollar that never showed signs of the bacteria but had renal failure from the kanamycin. After I was certain the infection was gone I rehomed all but 5 megalechis thoratica. I began restocking a month later, the new fish stayed in qt for a month then 5 were added to the 75 "that is running an aquanetics 30 watt UV" with the hoplos and 4 remained in a 44 gallon qt. Bang within days every fish in the 75 had columnaris again. I lost 3 red spot severums and 1 of the hoplos. They are now in 20-long qt tanks and the 75 was bleached. The fish have been in 1.10 salinity for 6 weeks I saw no improvement until I crossed over 1 tbsp/gallon. I have been medicating with spectrogram and grape root for 2 weeks at a time along with baths in PP followed by painting with H2O2. The 2 remaining Red Spots still show some reddening of the operculum suggesting that the gills are still infected but all external signs are gone. The hoplos still show milkyness. I have tried everything should I continue treatment or just put them down?

[@devontrigg642]

First sorry to read about all these issues. I would look for potential stressors and I would also note the mineral Cations are an important part of many of my successful Columnaris treatments (assuming Columnaris). Also make sure your UV lamp is within 6 months old and a HO lamp (also note it can break down Spectrogram). Finally AAP Wound Control is the most effective product to swab external infections of Columnaris with. My results with Hydrogen Peroxide are mixed. PP would be my second choice for swabbing (but dilluted and also not where there are open sores)

[@meredithrwelsh]

Thank you for this video!!! I just ordered the spectrogram! I hope it gets here quick!!!!

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Welcome! So glad it helped.

[@meredithrwelsh]

I actually ordered a number of things to keep on hand. I don’t want to get into this situation again where I’m unprepared for a sickness and it be to late at night to fix it

[@ryblanch7690]

When dealing with Streptococcus in fish or gram positive bacteria, treatment such as Erythromycin is medication that most choose. Sometimes a secondary gram negative infection occurs such as Columnaris. Is it safe to combine Erythromycin with Maracyn 2 and Methane Blue for a 30 minute bath 2x a day for 7-10 days and if both diseases are suspected, and what do you recommend for an in tank treatment to go concurrently with the bath treatments? About 2 weeks ago my roommates flowerhorn developed bad eye cloud overnight. Figured it could have been an injury like he got startled and scraped the eye on something, so we treated with aquarium salt and removed artificial plants. About 3 days went by and he started doing flips, literally rolling and somersaulting and cartwheeling. Read that this behaviour is common in Streptococcus infections. So we treated his whole tank with API EM Erythromycin for the the 4 doses and his color came back (he had turned pale), his eye cleared up, he stopped flipping, and he began eating again.. we did water change with Some Prime, Easy Balance and Safestart, and returned carbon to filter as instructed on medication box. The problem was that Erythromycin absolutely destroyed the water parameters and there was a really bad nitrite and ammonia spike after use in tank. Hes alone in a 55 gallon by the way. So we had to keep doing partial water changes to beat down the ammonia and added some Amguard and some more safestart to boost the nitrogen cycle again...So less than a week later hes doing flips again and looking pale, I assume from stress after medicating and perhaps nitrite or ammonia poisoning. With an already weakened and compromised immune he could die. This is bad. It's taken a few days to get water parameters back to 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm nitrite Now with 6.6 ph, 5.0 ppm nitrate... I'm very weary about treating his main tank again with Erythromycin. I researched and found this video and another article by Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR, which both suggest medicated baths. So yesterday I net the fish and I notice on his side a bulge, thought it was swim bladder but it looks almost yellowish on his white scales and is soft to the touch but not fuzzy. I think Columnaris which is an opportunistic bacteria may have added some more fuel to the fire. So anyway I'm on day 2 of 30 minute bath treatment using double dose of Methane Blue (to help with any toxicity from nitrites ammonia etc., and a double dose of Erythromycin (if the streptococcus is still present), but I need to know if I can also safely use the Marycyn 2 in the bath, or maybe i should just treat his main tank with the Marycyn2 instead of Erythromycin this go around and just stick to Erythromycin in the medicated baths..... Please, ang advice would be great... I dont know how this fish is still alive but he is. I think stress played a part in the start of this because he gets jumpy when people walk by his tank but also I think he was fed frozen food and maybe that had a pathogen in it...

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

I think it would be best if you followed our treatment plan with the medications we suggest. It's not a good idea to mix and match our suggestions with others. Here's more information. www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/01/streptococcus-eye-infections.html

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@AmericanAquariumInformation I agree, As well API Erythromycin is Erythromycin Phosphate which is an inferior product to Erythromycin Phosphate which is found in AAP Myacin (not to mention AAP Myacin is pharmaceutical grade, which API nnd Mardel are not)

[@anirbandutta6913]

My beloved betta has columnaris and a small part of its side lip is already gone. I've put it into a 3gallon tub set as 'hospital' and has been trying to treat it with just almond leaf water,(which he seems to love and has become quiet more responsive and colourful instead of when i first put him in and he would just stay at the bottom). Here, in India, we dont have much in terms of fish antibiotics and using human antibiotics on him seemed wrong... Though i have ordered some from amazon and its supposed to arrive soon. I watched your video and now i am trying to treat him with MB directly on his infected lips for about 10 seconds, twice a day and 1tsp of salt in his tank with regular almost 100% water changes. Can you suggest me any changes that i should make or any additions that i should do to give him the best chance? He is a year and 2 months old

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

We suggest using the almond leaf as a conditioner always for a betta. As far as treatment, the video goes into our best recommendations. The article linked to the video has more recommendations.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Here's also a betta care video that should help prevent disease beforehand. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKHFgpKhZaiJhpY

[@OffTheDeepEndAquatics]

I've been dealing with what I believe to be columnaris for months now and has spread to many different fish. Its an infection of the mouth on every one of them. Red and white but not fuzzy. I hear Columnaris kills quickly but as I said this has been going on for months and I have not had a signal fish die from it. I have treated with many different meds some of which recommended here without any response. I'm at a loss. I'm trying a methylene blue bath next. Kenaplex and nitrofurazone together was not effective.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Assuming Columnaris, there is a lot more to treating this than just the in tank medications. As well the Kanaplex/Nitrofurazone combination is not as effective as AAP's synergistic Spectrogram. All steps in the article must be followed and not a little here, a little there. Even the bath is much more than just MethyBlu Please read (from video details): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html As well as: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/09/how-to-treat-sick-fish.html Then you may not even be dealing with Columnaris. It could even be fish Mycobacterium www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2012/04/tb-in-fish-mycobacterium-tuberculosis.html

[@LEE-kq9tq]

Wow, really informative. I just got some new fish and I'm afraid they might have columnaris and have a suspicion that my old tanks may have it too b/c I'll suddenly get random die offs for no apparent reason. Just bought some of those shells and will keep this video favorited in case I need to treat.

[@devontrigg642]

The AAP Wonder Shells when fresh & used properly (often they are not) are definitely an important part of Collumnaris prevention. When coupled with the other points in the video and more so the article, Columnaris can often be prevented or treated more effectively. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@PHerkimerDiamond]

What if we have very hard water is it still good to use the mineral shell ? Or would that be making it extremely the opposite

[@carlstrohmeyer]

This in part depends upon what is "very hard water" as what many think is very hard is not. And even if it is truly at very high levels such as 400 ppm or higher, the idea behind the AAP Wonder Shell is for mineral Cations, which all you need is 1/4 dose to achieve ion hard water. Problem is many purchase there Wonder Shells from non authorized sources such as Amazon, where they are not rotated nor fresh stock, which results in these mineral Cations no longer being present. Wonder Shells should ONLY be purchased from AAP (where you can also get the Medicated version too). I suggest reading this article, in particular the section dealing with GH: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html

[@devontrigg517]

Yes. What is your hard water reading? You can also search our video library about wonder shells,. We go over this question in detail

[@zackalcorn1428]

Is there anyway to contact yiu directly to give a picture and asks questions?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

The article in the video details (which you should definitely read) has contact information for active professional groups to share such information including water parameters

[@whitelesbianrapper]

Thanks for posting this video this has been a topic struggle for me. I was just curious if you can mix nitrofurazone, and kanamycin in the methylene blue dip? Or do you leave it in their water? That part wasn't exactly clear.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Yes! Double dose in the baths and have an in tank treatment. The article in the description covers it. Good luck!

[@grahamtherabbit9318]

my betta fish has a clear jelly like fungus growing on his side. I recently transfered him into a 5.5 gallon tank. What should I do? Thx!

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Loaded question. I would say you should check into the why the fish got sick before considering a treatment. Correcting water can resolve many issues. There's a few videos on our channel about sick fish help. Here's one to start you out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqWUl62kqrCcaKc

[@grahamtherabbit9318]

@@AmericanAquariumInformation thx

[@rebekahjones4096]

Thanks for the science-based information. I read the article first and then watched this video, and I still have a couple questions. 1. My Kh and gh are about 120 each with a ph of 7.8. Is that enough to provide the electrolytes you were talking about? 2. I think two of my kuhli loaches have columnaris. One has a fairly large, shiny white patch on his side and I noticed a second one with a much smaller patch yesterday. They are notoriously sensitive to medications. How should I treat them? They live in a 20 gallon long with a betta, otocinculus, assasin snail, and numerous pest snails that appear to be healthy. I've never seen the betta bully them. Three did get into my sump and two died. I didn't see an injury on the 3rd, but perhaps that was the stresser, and since they pile all up on each other maybe he passed it to the other one. I fixed that access. Tank temperature does fluctuate between 74 and 78. 120 gallons/hour pass through the filtration, and I have an additional diy air pump box filter that sits below the over flow. This is where the loaches hang out. Betta tends to spend most of his time on the opposite side of the tank where the flow is quieter, so I don't think he's bugging the loaches too much. I do have a 3 gallon that could be used as a hospital tank, and cycled media ready for it, but I'm afraid treat the loaches with medications because of everything I've read about their sensitivity to it. I also don't want any more of them to get sick, if indeed they are sick. It's a quandary. 3. Five weeks ago I brought home a vey sick betta that I treated for fin rot with Seachem's kanaplex and for the potential onset of bloat with metroplex. I continue to change one gallon of water treated with Seachem's stress guard and prime three times per week. He is able to swim and eat again, and while he is acting like a normal, fiesty betta, his fins haven't healed. He had always had a white patch near his dorsal fin, just on one side. I thought it was just odd coloration, but do you think it could be columnaris? He lives alone in a 5 gallon aquarium that is kept at 80 to 82 degrees and with a filter that moves about 30 gallons of water per hour, but is baffled. Here is a link to photos in Google drive. Sorry i cann't get any of the loaches - they are too quick. drive.google.com/folderview?id=1W-_WE3XsEyIWTewr0ri7vO1PjRtwRCQR

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Thanks for checking out the video. You'd want to dose electrolytes no matter what as there's no way to tell how much electrolytes are in the water based on the hardness. Start there. Using the recommended treatments will be fine with looches, just use as directed. Do look for stressors. Even at night, as this is when lots of activity happens. Make sure to lower that temp in the Betta tank. Make sure to follow the intake treatment along with the baths. Consider what your feeding. There's lots of poor foods. Honestly, I can't say the pictures are a confirmed case of Columaris, but following the steps will confirm it or not based on success. If it doesn't work, it could be Aeromonas or Fish TB. Where the spot is next to the fin does happen with Columnaris. Recommend a swab of AAP Merbromin on that Betta and AAP Spectrogram as it's a better synergistic blend for treatment. Hope the best for your treatment!

[@devontrigg642]

Yes, definitely make sure of Mineral Cations. Betta Spa might be a good idea too. Baths and in tank treatment with AAP Spectrogram and Merbromin (Wound Control) topically on the affected area

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Here is a link to a couple of the products: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquatronics.html

[@rebekahjones4096]

Thanks! You discuss topics here that other aquarium channels don't. Always something new to learn.

[@rebekahjones4096]

1. Remove sressors, including adding electrolytes. 2. Add aquarium salt. 3a. Swab on merbromin or methalylene blue or hydrogen peroxide. 3b. Put in bath with double dose of methylene blue and spectogram for 30 minutes. 4. Put in hospital tank with spectrogram. Continue daily baths for 7 to 10 days. So my question is, how long do I keep the fish in the home aquarium with salt and electrolytes before moving into the bath and hospital tank? Or do I put salt and electrolytes in the hospital tank along with the meds? Or do they go in the bath?

[@christinacastine4355]

Very in depth. Thank you for this info. I made a real rookie mistake and added a new fish to my established community. Columnaris ripped through my tank and devastated the majority of my stock. I have 3 cloud minnows, 3 Cory’s and 1 bristle nose left. I had kanaplex on hand so I dosed that as soon as I figured out what was going on and ordered the nitrofurazone. I got it the next day and added the tablets. Do you think that was close enough to be synergistic for the treatment? I was going to water change in 4 days as suggested by the nitrofurazone and treat with both meds if symptoms are still present and if my fish are still hanging on.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

To be synergistic, these need to be used together, with the AAP Nitrofurazone (either Yellow Powder or Nitrofuracin Green, neither of which come in tablet form). Also these are step four, with the other 3 steps also very important for effective treatment

[@christinacastine4355]

@@carlstrohmeyer hey thanks for the info! I purchased the Jungle Fungus Clear fizz tabs. The first ingredient is nitrofurizone. Will this not work?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@christinacastine4355 This Jungle product contains Potassium Dichromate which should never be mixed with Kanaplex as it is a strong oxidizing agent. It is noteworthy that Jungle Fungus Clear is discounter product of low quality only sold by places like Walmart and Amazon which only hurts professional sellers like AAP that provide articles and videos that support the truly hobby. I strongly urge you to follow all the directions found in the article that this video is outlined from, finding alternatives often results in failure

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Hope you got it figured out! Looks like you got some good help already. There's lots of different stresses that could lead to this disease. Adding fish could do it. Usually takes multiple stressors to affect a whole tank. We found low mineralization of the water was most the time the main stressor. Fish immunity get worn away and then other stressors are a bigger issue an normal. Make sure to check off the basics from the video even if your sure they're good. Less chance of it happening again. Thanks for viewing!

[@JeiNelson]

My Blood Parrot just developed a white cotton like mucus in its nose hole. This happened to my KKP 9 months ago and it had to be put down. I am thinking its columnaris, both instances. Ive separated the BP, added aq salt and Bactonex (methelyne blue) and dropped the temp like instructed in this video. Hope this works. He may have gotten stressed with the addition of a new fish

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Best of luck on the treatment!

[@devontrigg642]

Assuming Columnaris, it is important to follow ALL of the four steps. Which includes addition of mineral Cations (if missing), MB baths,, direct application to any any exposed infection with Wound Control/Merbromin, along with in tank treatment with the optimum medications (Spectrogram being most effective)

[@user-qk4ob3wg1r]

How long can I continue this treatment for? We just finished 4 days of treatment, and my fish look a TON better. However, two still have an internal white patch that shrank but isn't totally gone.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Have you followed the full 4 step plan outlined in the video and more so in the article (in the details section) this video is based on? If so, you might consider one more full treatment of AAP Yellow Powder after a 25%+ water change, but usually when all aspects including proper treatments, further treatment is not needed.

[@devontrigg517]

Agree with Carl! Glad there's some success.

[@user-qk4ob3wg1r]

You're right. I did everything but the bath for most of them. They are a wild caught Hylopanchax that just arrived from a fish importer, and they seemed really stressed out. I only bathed one of them, but he had issues swimming afterwards + clamped fins, and that scared me off bathing the rest. But he did perk up a couple hours later. I'll dip them and do another big water change before I give them any more meds. @@carlstrohmeyer

[@dyloak6450]

What kind of salt do I put in? I heard iodized salt doesn’t work.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

I recommend reading the full Columnaris article cited in the video details, as ALL steps are essential for success, not just salt. Here is the answer to your question from the article (again please read): QUOTE: "A good choice for salt is pure NaCl for aquarium use, definitely NOT table salt which has anti-caking agents and often iodine. Better would be a premium marine salt such as the AAP Tropic Marin Salt. Resource: Tropic Marin Reef Aquarium Sea Salt from AAP"

[@ChickensLady]

What was the grapefruit he mentioned & how much would one use? Never heard of it?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Oregon Grapefruit. You can read the how's here. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumMedication4.html#oregon_grape

[@carlstrohmeyer]

This question is answered in depth in the article referenced in the video details. Here is a quote from the article: "Since the use of Nitrofurazone/Kanamycin is a synergistic combination (when used 100% at the same time), improving synergistic combinations via new research into human antibiotics resistance is yielding some interesting results with Oregon Grape Root which aids in antibiotic effectiveness as it contains a specific multi drug resistance pump inhibitor (MDR Inhibitor). Resistant bacteria work by utilizing a pumping mechanism in its cell that when antibiotics enter that cell the pump immediately pumps out the antibiotics so it can have no effect on the MRSA cell. Oregon Grape Root works by blocking the bacteria's ability to pump out antibiotics. Currently the best suggestion for use is opening a 400 mg Oregon Grape Root Capsule into 10 gallons of water along with the antibiotics, but keep in mind, aquarium use is still in its infancy!!!" PLEASE READ this article in full as there is much more than just treatment to curing this infection: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@SpiritAquatics]

I recently bought 12 cardinal tetras, 5 Denison barbs and 6 otocinclus online. They arrived on Thursday last week but some of the cardinal tetras I received have white lips and are breathing heavily. I believe it is columnaris "cotton mouth" it isn't fluffy, just looks like the skin on their lips is damaged and white. All of the new fish I recieved are in my 50g tank. Antibiotic treatments cannot be purchased online or at aquatic shops here in the UK. Methylene blue is available but I don't have any at the moment but I do have aquarium salt on hand. Are otocinclus catfish sensitive to salt treatment as they are scaleless fish or is the tablespoon per 5 gallons still safe? I feel like netting out the tetras and dipping them daily into methylene blue is likley to stress them out and be very difficult as there are lots of wood plants and rocks for them to hide behind in my tank. I could catch the tetras and put them in a spare tank and dose methylene blue and salt and see if they improve. None of the other fish are showing symptoms, hopefully they haven't caught it. So to summarise should I dose the whole tank with salt / is that safe for my otos or should I remove the tetras from the 50g to my 5 gallon tank and dose salt / methylene blue? Thanks

[@devontrigg642]

Unless you suspect infection in other fish, I would treat with a full salt treatment in a hospital tank. I strongly suggest baths and most importantly follow ALL steps outlined in prevention (as per the article referenced in the video details which this video is but a small snapshot of), this includes diet, lowering stressors, use of a true UV sterilizer (such as the Vecton which is sold in the UK), & more

[@grahamtherabbit9318]

@@devontrigg642 my betta fish has a clear jelly like fungus growing on his side. I recently transfered him into a 5.5 gallon tank. What should I do? Thx!

[@iva99a19]

Hey I got a question I bought potassium permanganate because there was not BM but the guy from the aquarium told me green malaquita do something similar to BM so I don't know if I can use it, or is better to stay with the potassium permanganate !!

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Malachite Green does not work the same as Potassium Permanganate and is not a replacement. This said your best choice is not PP, rather AAP Wound Control (Merbromin), especially if there are open sores. Further Reading: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumMedication3.html www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@davidanguelov6233]

My betta fish has a single large protruding white spot on his side and I was wondering if you could confirm if this is columnaris. Also, I admit to not doing water changes on schedule and assuming I improve the water conditions of the tank, would this help fight off the disease or would I have to use the mentioned treatments.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Best is to take a look at the article I have in the description of the video and match what your seeing with the pictures. Also, look at the listed stressors and see if one could be you cause.

[@devontrigg642]

Besides reading the article in full as AAP suggested, you might seek help in a better format than KZbin comments such as a non anecdotal fish forum, this way you can post pictures too: Two places to start: facebook.com/groups/220024505125640 everythingaquatic.proboards.com/

[@xo3086]

Do both Merdromin and methalyn blue have to be swabbed on the fish? Or are you telling us to pick one from those ?

[@sasfishadventures9729]

Very knowledgable!

[@TCgirl]

If I am trying to cure Columnaris on my betta with salt, how long do I leave it in the aquarium? And when I do a water change, if it isn't cured yet, do I keep adding more salt until it is cleared up?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Curing only with salt is a difficult way to treat (using salt in a bath as PART of a treatment is easier). The problem is the line between cure and killing the fish is very fine. I would suggest reading the article from which this video is based (in details), and follow the PDF link for the salt only treatment if you want to give it a try. Here is a direct link to the article: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/columnaris--saprolegnia.html

[@bobbygsproaquarium]

Wow packed full of great info, thanks for sharing!

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Very welcome.

[@giantspida]

Trying this with my betta using mebromin, spectrogram, methylene blue, and salt, and haven't noticed any improvement on day 4. He tolerates the baths and swabs pretty well so I'm going to try upping it to twice a day. Any other suggestions (assuming you read this in time)? Or any medications I could safely increase the dosage?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Are water parameters in check as per the Columnaris article referenced here?. You can safely double Spectrogram. You also may not be dealing with Columnaris, as the author of the article has noted to me, that he has often see other issues from genetic problems to Saporlegnia falsely diagnosed as Columnaris. You might post pictures here: facebook.com/groups/471149673786076/

[@giantspida]

@@AmericanAquariumInformation Thank you for the reply! It's tough to say for sure... he has been struggling with a nasty case of fin rot for months now, and all the other treatments I found on the internet did nothing, and now a little white patch showed up on the top of his head that has spread rather quickly over the last week or so (which might actually be getting smaller as of today! it's hard to tell). Ammonia/nitrites are always 0, nitrates never get above 10 ppm, our tap water is quite hard (gh/kh around 200 ppm) with high but stable ph (8.2). I've been going through the articles on your website, and never knew any of that stuff about redox despite hours and hours of past research. Hopefully that's what has been missing from our tank

[@giantspida]

@@AmericanAquariumInformation Just an update, it's day 8 and it's almost completely gone. His fins even look like they're getting a bit better. Thank you so much for making these videos! You probably saved him, who knows what would have happened if I followed some other advice. I just wish I had learned about this stuff earlier so it wouldn't have gotten to this point in the first place

[@aryah1513]

​ @American Aquarium Do snails or shrimp have the ability to carry the bacteria in a fishless tank beyond 32 days?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Yes, but it depends whether or not the bacterium is pathogenic. This might need more details and is better for a discussion group than KZbin comments. Suggested Group: facebook.com/groups/220024505125640/

[@aryah1513]

@@carlstrohmeyer is there a way to tell between the 2 without a microscope?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@aryah1513 Sometimes just a close up magnified picture (most smart phones can do this as well as a magnifying glass). The article referenced in the details of this video explains more, I suggest reading: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@heathersnyder6959]

Hi, loved your video great information. I have a question on my betta fish, he is a king betta and he has lost his coloring he was a very vibrant bluish green color when I first got him and then he turned a very discolored pale blue. he also had very ripped and torn fins like i can literally see them split into sections. take his tail fin and i can see three seperate sections like someone took scissors and just cut a single line in his fins. and his other fins on the bottom of him are the same way as well as looking frayed. I am finding more stuff on fin and tail rot but i think it is way more than that. so i was wondering if you have any suggestions as to what it might be. i have him on a course of melafix by API right now. any information or rescources will be greatly appreciated. I have not found too much on a google search of anything near to my betta's symptoms. thanks ahead of time.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Hi there. I think it would best to go through all your water parameters as there could be a number of reason why this would happen, including parameters or stressors. It's kind of a loaded question that we would want to spend time investigating. This is best done in a group, not in the KZbin comments. It could be columnaris or dopsy. What are your parameters? Filters? Oxygen? Other fish? How old is the fish. Here's some resources and also some groups with more people to help. www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/09/how-to-treat-sick-fish.html facebook.com/groups/220024505125640/ everythingaquatic.proboards.com

[@xo3086]

Quick question does spectrogram go in only the methalyn bath. Or is it bath plus tank? Also just one for each ? Or half of it in each ? Idk please help me 🙏🙏🙏🙏 thank you

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Spectrogram is meant primarily for "in tank" treatment as per the article this video is based from (please read): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html In a bath, AAP Spectrogram is doubled (although if difficult cases it can also be doubled in tank). For a bath, AAP Bettamax is a good choice as per the article too

[@xo3086]

So I put one of the capsule of spectrogram in his tank. And two in the bath? I’m sorry I’m a bit confused. I did read the article but I have difficulty keeping track the information. I did read 10-20 percent water change a day, which I assume is what I do before adding another spectrogram (daily) please help

[@xo3086]

When I swab with mthalyn blue am I dissolving the spectrogram with it then swabbing it all together ??? Also then do I mix methalyn blue and spectrogram together in the bath? It’s my first betta fish and I need all the proper direction I can get please help me !!!! Many thanks 🙏

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Yes you can mix these both in the bath, followed by the swab of EITHER MethyBlu or AAP Wound Control (better) prior to adding the fish back to the main tank

[@xo3086]

I did five treatments of spectrogram this. My betta is improving but nothing drastic yet. How many more treatments should I do of spectrogram

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Directions say one treatment every other day for minimum of three treatments. 20% water changes should be done between each treatment. And can be safely dou led dosed for difficult cases.

[@matt79hz]

Hi, I've had a white mouth disease go through the tank. I lost 15 of 25 young harlequins and then after some time of stability I reintroduced another 15 and they are all healthy 2 weeks in. Lately, my very outwardly healthy Congo, 1 of 6, is constantly making mouth movements, still eating, but not as much as the others. Still colourful and fat. I wonder if he's fighting the same disease. Any suggestions ? I was thinking of giving him a salt bath.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

You'd want to follow this article and start with parameters. www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/09/how-to-treat-sick-fish.html

[@snugglefunny]

Can you please made a video on how to diagnose and make medicated fish food for other internal infections . My fish is passing white in its faeces and white faeces on its own . Particularly after using the medicated wonder shell and after a Bath

[@devontrigg642]

Just so you know, these videos are only meant to give a quick snip of the vast amount of information in AAPs Library. We already have information as to this subject in this library: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.html More: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Information.html This said, maybe Devon will get around to some tips from the articles on video as time allows

[@snugglefunny]

Thanks . Yes I read your article on this and it mentioned medicated food . I have a chronic illness so I can’t do a lot of reading .

[@snugglefunny]

Thanks I’ll try read those links when I next can

[@jwoodard621]

How do I treat blackmoors white film on body thankyou

[@carlstrohmeyer]

I suggest following ALL steps outlined in the in depth & researched article that this video is an outline from: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#treatment1

[@christinafacts444]

Is it ok to do step 2 and 3 (swab and bath with methy blue) DURING step 4 (antibiotic in-tank treatment) ?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

The swab baths are done along with the intent treatment daily. So, they get the swab bath, then are put back in the treatment.

[@devontrigg642]

I 2nd this point. As well step one is very important!

[@snugglefunny]

Is the salt at 1 tablespoon per gallon in tank as step 1 , used during the in tank spectrogram treatment aswell ?

[@devontrigg642]

Yes/no, I would start out with one tablespoon per 5 gallons. As for your UV Question, the SunSun JUP-01 is pure junk and not capable of level one UV Sterilization. This is a popular discount UV clarifier sold to unsuspecting aquarium keepers via Amazon and other less credible sellers. Further Reading: www.uvsterilizerreview.com/2010/12/internal-uv-sterilizer-filter-pump.html www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

[@devontrigg642]

Yes, please read the links I provided in my previous comment answers your question and explains why.

[@snugglefunny]

Sorry I meant 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons as step 2 , should it be in the tank when adding the spectrogram . Or should I do water change to reduce the salt concentration ?

[@snugglefunny]

Thanks for the extra info on the UV . Still trying to find which one to get .

[@devontrigg642]

Yes one tbls per 5 gal., no more. Definitely read both articles, the first is short, while the 2nd in long but VERY informative. The vast majority of UVs now flooding the market are Category C and you do not want a Category C if you are looking for disease prevention,

[@sasfishadventures9729]

Is there anything I can use instead of the wondershells? Im in Australia

[@carlstrohmeyer]

AAP Wonder Shells are shipped & sold regularly to Australia

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Best is the wonder shell and for like $15, you can have a year supply sent to you.

[@BIGJAYDAPHENOM]

These medications are not readily available at your local fish store and at what point will it be more cost effective to say a prayer for the little guy and buy another fish?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Sorry you are in this situation and this is a personal call. Unfortunately Amazon has destroyed so many professional aquarium supply dealers that all that is left is sellers of discount products both online and local fish stores. This is why it is important to follow ALL professionally proven steps to Aquarium Fish Disease prevention and stock certain minimum products BEFORE you need them. I urge you to read this article in FULL (which includes products to keep on hand): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html

[@BrutalRiotGirl01]

How do you treat the Mold on the fish?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

I recommend reading the Saprolegnia section of the linked/referenced article from this video. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#fungus

[@dpchmdnn]

I've had 2 fish that probably died from columnaris in the last week, as they suddenly had breathing problems and in a couple of days their fins and mouth were shredded apart. Do i have to treat my whole tank? or just fish with symptoms?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

You need to remove the stessor from the whole tank and treat the fish. There's a good amount of information in the article in the description.

[@dpchmdnn]

@@AmericanAquariumInformation thanks man! I will read it.

[@devontrigg642]

You need to follow all the four steps, this including removing stressors as noted, & improving Redox balance. If one fish is sick, a hospital tank treatment might work, but you may need to treat the entire aquarium. As American Aquarium noted, I strongly suggest reading the ENTIRE article. Taking snips from this video or article is a recipe for failure

[@puchovskamagdalena6804]

Can be this applied on axolotls? Im totally comfused, cos i heard salt can hurt fishes.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Many things cannot be used on them. Im not an expert in axolotls, but if the med says don't used on scaleless fish, I wouldn't use it. I would look up axolotls specific information.

[@TheSwanbackjacks]

What about planted tanks? Salt still?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Salt is only a minor part of the four step plan. Generally most planted tanks do not tolerate salt, so I would not use it (although Nitrofurazone can be hard on many plants too), so an isolation tank might be best. I urge you to read the entire article that this video references (as these questions would be answered within): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#treatment1

[@TheSwanbackjacks]

@@carlstrohmeyer thank you so much!!!

[@SwashBuccaneer]

I think this is what my Betta is suffering from. He's got grey patches around his mouth and head and gill. Been trying to figure out what the hell it is and found this through research. Hope I can save him. :(

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Best a luck. Make sure to follow the steps all the way through

[@squirrelattackspidy]

Table salt or aquarium salt?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Either. Pure sodium chloride

[@brandonskelly35]

I took so many notes!

[@Bk-pu6to]

Can Epsom salt be use as a substitute for Nacl?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

No it cant. They're two different salts. Here's more info about salt in freshwater. www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/03/salt-in-freshwater-aquariums.html

[@Bk-pu6to]

Thanks for the quick response. I think I am dealing with a columaris outbreak in one of my tanks now. This video is extremely helpful & very informative. Im a New subscriber. Thanks for sharing

[@devontrigg642]

Much more about Epsom Salt (this is a must read article for any serious aquarium keeper): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html

[@stevenmoo9970]

This guy is good!!

[@ryanerb5964]

Doimg some research o. Here because im deal with this right now. I see a vid that said she Euthanize to the rest of her fish that survived the calaveras in feared that it would get her other fish sick. Because once they have it they always have it is that true. If i add new fish to a tank that had columnaris will the new fish get sick

[@devontrigg642]

This is not at all true. Columnaris is an opportunistic bacterial infection, but following ALL the steps for prevention will minimize re-occurrence to almost nothing. This is based on decades of professional experience in 1000s of aquariums. Please read the complete article in the details section of this video for a full understanding of prevention

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Here is the link PAMR Carl Strohmeyer refers to from our details section: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@ryanerb5964]

Carl Strohmeyer ty i was watching a Video On the Inventory king's channel. And he had a guest speaker. She said she Euthanize all her fishin fear her new fish would get sick because the old ones where Carriers of the disease.

[@ryanerb5964]

I just bought thos shells to put in my tanks. I have a used new to me 120 i set up and when i moved a group of fish to the 120 they all came down with Columnaris. I lost 3 only trated with furen 2 and kenaplex (not sure i spelled any of thos names right ) but i did a total of 10 tratments but only 3 of the kenaplex. Heard its hard on there body and it yes a max of 3 doses. All my fidh but one are doing batter but s9me still.have a hard time eating and Swallowing food

[@devontrigg642]

This video you are speaking of is dead wrong. Columnaris is ubiquitous (found everywhere) its presence does not mean fish will get the disease. As well this bacteria is strictly aerobic and do NOT thrive in low oxygen environments. Based on your last comment, I strongly urge you to follow 100% the treatment/prevention methods outlined in the article and this video, which it appears you are not. Kanaplex and Nitrofurazone MUST be used 100% concurrently for maximum effectiveness (which is why the purchase of AAP Spectrogram is so important). As well lowering all stressors, adding a Category A or B UV are also important. I also recommend a follow up with the AAP Medicated Wonder Shell and to support those who are helping you here and bringing paying to provide this video with your purchases. Picking and choosing what parts of a treatment regimen to follow is a recipe for long term failure, which is why the video you cited exists.

[@whitelesbianrapper]

BIG SHOUT OUT for this!! actually I just saved three betta fish from an early-stage columnaris. I did something a little bit differently however. Day 1.* doses for a 1-gallon bowl* -Meth blue swab, -kanaplex 1/5 of a level scoop -1.5 tbsp aquarium (in 1 gallon) -meth blue 2-3 drops or so -1 line of Furan II ( correct dose for a 1-gallon bowl IF dividing 1 packet into 1/10ths -no heater. Day 2. 2nd Dose Furan II (1 line aka 1/10 of packet) Day 3. Full water change and repeat of day 1 steps (including 2nd swab as needed). Day 4. 4th dose Furan II Day 5. 100% change, repeat of day 1 steps (minus a swab). Day 6. 6th Dose Furan II Day 7 7th dose Furan II Day 8. Full or partial water chg. Thanks for finally helping me crack the code on this! I will be able to save many fish now. This recipe is for betta fish.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Great this worked! Keep in mind that water changes are key as it appears were part of your plan . As well lowering stressors is also important (this includes oxidative stress and stress from tank mates). Sometimes just lowering stressors baths, and salt is all that is needed. However when it comes to meds, keeping them at full strength while not too toxic is also important., this is where water changes help, but also using more pure meds. This is why AAP Spectrogram is often more effective or at least the use of AAP Furacyn is more effective than the overly popular Furan 2 which is not pharmaceutical grade www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquatronics.html

[@sarahf4711]

What is the 1.5 tbsp aquarium (3rd line of your treatment above?)

[@triniscaper3824]

This happend to my shrimp and fish fry I cant take them out the water I lost these fish 7 times I'm tired now

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Columnaris is easily prevented as per the article provided assuming you follow ALL the professional tips provided in the article reference by this video. Often those who struggle with this infection pick & choose steps to follow. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@Aquaman-wy3mg]

Is the shell safe for planted tanks with invertebrates?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

They are the best for that type of tank, because plants and inverts both need the minerals also.

[@devontrigg642]

Yes, the AAP Wonder Shell is excellent and safe for all fish, inverts & plants. However the Medicated version of the AAP Wonder Shell should not be used with sensitive plants or sensitive invertebrates (generally anubias and snails are OK)

[@Aquaman-wy3mg]

American Aquarium I daily dose with GLA PPS PRO system will the shell affect anything?

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Which of the ferts do you dose?

[@Aquaman-wy3mg]

American Aquarium green leaf aquariums PPS PRO daily.

[@nolanacheson7005]

THANKS!!!!! :)

[@mellewedin8221]

The treatment all in it's self sounds stressful as hell on the fish to move from tank to tank to cup to different water with chemicals and such. I have freshwater tropical fish. They have something going on. It's bacterial I think. My Platy's have lesions, I it only effects my sliver speckled that I have bred myself for their pattern. It's not common. My golds seem fine. Where they have the color black for scales they are popping out and falling off them. I have given the around of EM erythromycin, fruan-2, and triple sulfa. Yes they got breaks in between treatments. I also use Epson salt it's much better for freshwater fish. I did meth baths. Nothing my fish are still infected. I have even dose the food with metroplex and focus. Nothing!! Any suggestions?

[@devontrigg642]

Treatment can be stressful, especially if not done correctly. As per the article the first step is removal of stressors, this includes lowering oxidative stress and improving osmoregulation. From what I can read, you have NOT followed the article referenced here (assuming this is actually Columnaris). For one, Erythromycin is definitely NOT effective for Columnaris being a gram positive treatment when in fact Columnaris is gram negative. Epsom Salt is best part of the fish bath and if lesions are present, the use of AAP Wound Control (Merbromin) is very helpful, if not a must. Furan 2 is rarely effective by itself unless combined concurently with Kanamycin (best in AAP Spectrogram). I strongly suggest reading the article referenced and following it 100% for best results (it is noteworthy that this disease can be very difficult to treat and if the causes are not addressed, often impossible) Here is the article from the details section of this video: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html More Reading: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/09/how-to-treat-sick-fish.html

[@mellewedin8221]

My fish came to me sick. No they do not have this. No one knows what they have and no one can tell me. My fish do not have stressful tanks thank you. I keep no bullies, my tanks do have good water quality. You haven't seen any of my tanks to make the decision that I haven't taken this step thank you. I have posted them on lost of different platforms. I have owner of my local pet store. He had never seen this either. My pH is on for them, they have fully planted tanks, gravel is actual stone color and natural looking. I do not have bright high powered lighting either. They are low tech tanks. They have been up and running for over a year. They are aged they where fully cycled before I added them, and I added them slowly over a month to over load my BB field either. I have kept fish for years. I have never battled this before.

[@devontrigg642]

@@mellewedin8221 Getting fish in sick is common among even the best most experienced fish keepers (myself included), and the stressors that cause disease often were present BEFORE obtaining fish (these include high ammonia exposure poor diet and much more, bot just "bully" fish). No I have not seen your fish, but then you commented on a video about Columnaris, and your comments show you have not followed the steps outlined by the article. As for water parameters, this goes far beyond pH and other common parameters when dealing with difficult diseases, it also includes providing constant mineral Cations, buffers, and a balance Redox. More about Redox: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Redox_Potential.html

[@xo3086]

Can I use maracyn oxy since the plus is out of stock??? Also how do I use it

[@xo3086]

Also do I need it if I’m getting spectrogram ?????

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@xo3086 Definitely not, not the same medication at all as per ingredients. If you use Spectrogram, you do not need Maracyn Plus anyway as per the article: Please Read in full: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@ryanerb5964]

So spectogram is furen 2 and kanaplex

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Not exactly, it is synergistic blend of the correct amounts so that they can be dosed at exactly the same time, which if Furan 2 and Kanamycin are used separately is nearly impossible since doing is on a different schedule. As Carl noted in another comment, the point of this video is to not cut corners, otherwise your are setting yourself up for failure.

[@devontrigg642]

Yes, this is the point of the video as well as major point in this article which represents research with 1000s of aquariums. Honestly, rather than looking for ways around what is suggested in the article/video, I suggest following ALL proven steps and supporting those who provide actual researched information rather than discounters such as Amazon.

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

While this may not apply here, here is a good article as to Carl's point about discounters such as Amazon: www.fish-as-pets.com/2018/03/buying-aquarium-products-via-amazon.html

[@ryanerb5964]

I only ask because thays whatbi use but if this is better ill try but im treating a 120gallon and its cost alot to does and already spent 200 buck on meds

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Just make sure to follow ALL the steps, If it has not gone systemic, a quarantine tank may be used and just treat the main tank with a few Medicated Wonder Shells and make sure to run a Category A or B UV

[@kevintennant7701]

Well, that ends my fish owning forever. Canada has outlawed all antibiotics for aquariums. I just can't use happy thoughts to help a fish.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

This is unfortunately true of many of the best treatments in the USA too. This said, I have been professionally caring for 1000s of client's aquarium for decades and would note that prevention is 60-70% of treatment, and these preventative methods that are clearly outlined in the article referenced in this video details can still be followed which includes lowering stressors, a balanced Redox, use of true UV Sterilization (not a cheap Chinese UV clarifier from Amazon), and more

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Besides reading the complete Columnaris article from this video details, I suggest reading the proven Aquarium Disease Prevention article and follow ALL steps: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html Here is the Columnaris article again www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html:

[@adrianpoe4416]

No mention of any of this is safe for planted tanks...

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

In the linked article, there's precautions for some medications.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

I suggest reading the details as this video is clearly just an outline of the massive amount of research based information about Columnaris. The main treatment: AAP Spectrogram (lined to in the details) clearly provides your answer: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquatronics.html#spectrogram QUOTE: The Ingredient Nitrofurazone may be harmful to some invertebrate, such as shrimp and many reef inhabitants. Generally safe for snails at regular dose. As well Nitrofurazone may be harmful to some plants (not all). AAP advises the use in a hospital tank for fish kept in aquarium with sensitive invertebrate or plants. Further Reading: Aquarium Medications Part Two; Antibiotics- Nitrofurazone

[@jiarealty]

I personally would skip the swabbing altogether because (1) the procedure stresses out the fish even more (2) Columnaris causes death by destroying the gill tissue and swabbing cannot be used on gills (3) The fish is getting a medicated bath anyways Other than swabbing, the other information presented was helpful

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

I understand your points. Experience has just shown for a more effective treatment. I would read the article about swabs. Here's how it starts. "Readers should also note that fish losses were still higher than medications combined with swabs/baths based on my own experience with 100s of Columnaris treatments for clients."

[@devontrigg642]

Those are good points. Obviously a swab of gills is not possible and in this case a bath is better. As well swabs and baths are BOTH stressful to fish and sometimes nervousness of the person performing this action also can make it even worse. This all said, on obvious lesions such as the common Columnaris "Saddleback", my experience has shwon better success and quicker healing when swabs are performed. With Columnaris, there are multiple facets to treatment with no "black & white" method. But what has been clear over the years is prevention and lowering stressors, including oxidative stress plays a role in prevention and the effectiveness of a cure

[@devontrigg642]

I would also suggest reading the article in the details section of this video, as this is vastly more in depth than the video and would give the viewer a better understanding of the "ins & outs" of Columnaris treatment & prevention

[@TheGnthreman]

Took three days from when I noticed it to my flowerhorns death.

[@aryah1513]

RIP man I'm sorry! I can't say I've lost something as precious as a flowerhorn but I did spend $100 on Guppy pairs/trios and the last purchase wound up infecting all my tanks and killing about 100 guppies (including the small fry of course).

[@TheGnthreman]

@@aryah1513 yeah I'm still upset.

[@cashoption2319]

Just watched a video and they said 2.5 tablespoons per gallon

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Seen the best results with our recommendations. Best to find one source of info and stick with it. Don't mix recommendations.

[@cashoption2319]

@@AmericanAquariumInformation came across your video 2nd lol oh well i put 9lbs of morton kosher salt in my 125g i guess time will tell

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@cashoption2319 This is dead wrong unless you are going with Brackish. The most you would generally want is one TEASPOON per gallon. Problem is that social media is loaded with so-called "experts" handing out poor advice after caring for a couple tanks for a year. Please read in FULL: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/03/salt-in-freshwater-aquariums.html

[@brittneyliv]

This video has no dose instruction.. Nor is it on any bottle that I purchased. I also find that the data is conflicting.. On the video it says mix nothing with potassium per Manga ate but your website says I can mix it with the methyl Blu... Can anyone assist me here?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

The article does not say to mix, it is one or the other (the use of AAP Wound Control/Merbromine is your best choice for a swab). QUOTE: : "With Methylene Blue OR Potassium Permanganate I prepare a double strength bath and place the fish in this solution for 30 minutes). I strongly recommend this bath as a FIRST course of action. AAP Spectrogram (1st choice) OR AAP Bettamax (2nd choice) OR Furan Two AND Kanamycin (3rd choice) SHOULD be added to this 20-30 minute bath for more serious or stubborn cases, HOWEVER do not combine these medications or any others with Potassium Permanganate, ONLY Methylene Blue can be combined. AAP Bettamax at double dose can be substituted for Methylne Blue and other meds for a bath as it duplicates many of the best ingredients for a fish bath in a ready to use measured capsule (1 capsule per 2.5 gallons of bath water)" As well, removing stressors is job one. I suggest reading the article in full and following ALL steps

[@brittneyliv]

@@carlstrohmeyer Oooooh!!!!!! So swab the fish with wound control then put him in the methyl Blu bath that has added salt?! And yeah I read the article in full multiple times... It's a rabbit hole for me.. I just need basic instruction. I looked at the wound control for dose information of the methyl Blu 😂🤪 it's a struggle for me.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@brittneyliv PLEASE read the and follow the links of this article, as the answer to this question is in each product link (I cannot share the links do to Google/KZbins anti science new rules that prevent commenters from referencing science based content) For instance if using the premium AAP MethBlu, hese is the dosing instructions (that are double normal dose) for use in a fish bath: QUOTE: “To prepare a 30 minute Methylene Blue bath; We recommend two drops per gallon or use 1/2 teaspoon of this 5% solution per 5 gallons in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from. We suggest using about a ½ gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise (although do not intentionally overdose more than double recommended dose, and even then this should only be used at double strength in fish baths of 30 minutes). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do NOT pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed up to twice per day.” Note that different formulations have different dosings, so if you are using a different product, brand dosing will be different. As for the Rabbit hole, this article in laid out in four important and easy to follow steps. Failure to follow ALL steps is a recipe for failure

[@brittneyliv]

@@carlstrohmeyer I read all the links lol that's what confused me more. I got it now. Lol my main confusion came into play when I got the products and read the box for wound control instead of methyl Blu lol it happens in mommy world. Once I seen your excerpt it put it back into perspective for me. I'm Making a gallon of medicine bath and will use this until it is gone (roughly three treatments) then I'll make more.. I have my wound control and fish net ready after I make my fish meds. And I already removed my stressors from my original tank.🙃 Last question.. I didn't see anything about feeding or not feeding fish during days of treatment.. Should I feed? Lol if you need my cell phone number please let me know..I'm a mom saving a baby's fish.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@brittneyliv Great!

[@berndmayer1765]

Dont you mean Malachite Blue??

[@carlstrohmeyer]

No you are confusing Methylene Blue with Malachite Green. I suggesting reading the references in the video details such as this one: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumMedication3.html

[@WaterBoxes]

Very informative, but thats now how it is pronounced lol. Thanks for the vid ;)

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Not sure what he pronounced wrong, Devon certainly pronounced Columnaris correctly

[@phill1074]

Forgot to mention genetics. I have a species with poor genetics and they are the only ones that get it.

[@devontrigg642]

Definitely something to consider. Good point. I may had not made it clear in the video, but the written article does! Best to check out for complete indepth help with this disease. Also talk about genetics and age, when not to treat in the video listed below. "While success in "beating back" Columnaris is more aided (besides treatment) by removing stressors, such as a bullying fish or lack of electrolytes. Also the progression of Columnaris is often simply aided by weak genetics (a VERY common cause with Bettas) which unfortunately there is little that can be done here other than culling weak fish, which sadly in many instances should be done to stop the spread/progression." www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqWUl62kqrCcaKc

[@johnfadds6089]

Electrolytes my ass!

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Sorry science does not matter to you

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Science is your friend: Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Redox_Potential.html

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

Lol... you don't take your vitamins do you

[@thebackyardbear]

How to treat Columnaris... Sacrifice the fish, sterilize the tank... start over.

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Better; prevent in the first place as per the referenced professional article in the video details. Columnaris is very rare in tanks where all parameters are where they should be (including Redox)and stressors, including oxidizers are minimized!

[@jmdio740]

The wonder shell is sold by AAP and imagine this: the video is posted by AAP!!!

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Yeh and the Wonder Shell is but a minor part of treatment if at all according to the video and article it references. Interesting that you condemn AAP for promoting a product used by professionals for decades all the while AAP provides free content via videos and more so in depth articles that are second to none that 1000s utilize for FREE everyday. Obvious Socialist!

[@ankitpatel5813]

This is terrible advice. Taking your fish out and swabbing it is only going to cause more stress.

[@devontrigg642]

With some larger fish for an amateur maybe yes, However I've been professionally using swabs in my aquarium maintenance company going back decades. This was a well known method too by many professionals and companies making professional products for such purposes. Unfortunately with mentoring going out the window, people make statements such as yours without any experience of what has been doen for years. It is also noteworthy that this is only a part of the the treatment, sometimes it is not called for, but correcting stressors is almost always an issue. Reading is your friend! www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

[@AmericanAquariumInformation]

I think you need to read the article and listen to professionals rather than make anecdotal comments with no basis in fact

[@ankitpatel5813]

Just bc I disagree with you doesnt mean I have no experience. Swabbing is unnecessary. nitrofurazone and kanaplex is a better solution if clean water and salt solutions are faulty for lower strains.

[@devontrigg642]

@@ankitpatel5813 This is why my point as to mentoring and knowing some history in the hobby and industry, which you clearly do not or you would not have made such an uninformed & disrespectful statement. The facts are is the Kanaplex/Furan combination was developed by the same researchers decades ago that also developed swabs for for treatment. Swabbing has been used for years with great success often as the only medication treatment. Sorry, but your statement incorrect Interestingly, the Kanaplex/Furan combination is still less effective than when used synergisticly in the product AAP Spectrogram which was developed in the late 70s before disappearing from the market afte the maker went out of business, but has now been brought back

[@imyourbabe0419]

How long does the salt stay?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Indefinitely unless you change the water

[@imyourbabe0419]

Thanks but can i use hydrogen peroxide to cure columnaris as in- tank treatment? Please reply, thanks

[@carlstrohmeyer]

@@imyourbabe0419 I've not had any success with the use of Hydrogen peroxide. I strongly suggest sticking to the proven methods listed in the article listed in the details from which this video is but a snip from

[@imyourbabe0419]

Ok but is it ok to put meth blue in my main tank as i don't have a qt, and i don't wanna do a dip it might stress my fish more.

[@mariaschneider8181]

Table salt or aquarium salt?

[@carlstrohmeyer]

Sodium Chloride or for some brackish & livebearers, marine salt can be used. Further Reading: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/03/salt-in-freshwater-aquariums.html