How to Add Colors to Clay | Ceramics

[@CeramicJim]

Which colors would you like to see for the next colored clay video? Let me know!

[@emmah2215]

Purple!

[@CeramicJim]

Pink is pretty easy. Just a small amount of red ;)

[@CeramicJim]

Seriously though. That’s all you need. It may a little bit of a faded pink but reds are reliable. Pinks can burn out.

[@samanthanicholson9015]

Black/white purple/blue

[@basherkp3119]

Fantastic, as a beginer i was searching such a video. Well done. Thanks

[@CeramicJim]

Thanks for the comment!

[@rosielancaster5184]

Some of your nerikomi patterns are too awesome for words. Your imagination is second to none.

[@CeramicJim]

Wow. Thank you Rosie. That’s so kind of you to say.

[@louisminnaar]

Thanks for the video Jim. Can one add these to color slips for casting? And are there any guidelines involved with safe quantities etc?

[@lynnemarchetti647]

Cool technique & great advisory info. Will try this for sure as it has to be cheaper than buying black clay.

[@CeramicJim]

It’s so much cheaper and you have more control over the color. Let me know how it goes!

[@richardkearney6077]

Hi Jim, can you do the same thing with Porcelain Slip?

[@CeramicJim]

Yes, you certainly can. With that extra water ratio of slip you won’t need as much stain to get richer colors. Maybe even half as much depending on how your slip is mixed.

[@richardkearney6077]

@@CeramicJim Awesome, thanks, I'm going to give it a go

[@camillasemmelhack4985]

It whas a great video love it 👏👏

[@zenatooze238]

Hi . Just discovered your channel, enjoying it! I read to mix stain or oxide up w liquid before mixing in clay? Any one better?

[@CeramicJim]

I’ve done both. The liquid can get messy and if you add to much then the clay gets sticky. BUT if you add to liquid first it takes care of the dust that drying mixing has. Sometimes I mix it dry on purpose so I have speckles or can use it right away. Other times I’ve used liquid and let it sit for a bit.

[@vanessachavez1199]

love the new background, also i’ve lost so many shirts to red iron oxide but it’s okay

[@CeramicJim]

Thanks Vanessa! Yep. Red Iron oxide seems to be the stain of stains. I’ve retired a few shirts as well.

[@renefarkle5005]

Thank you for your awesome videos, wish you had more,,, where do you buy the mason stains? And, do you only use porcelain when adding these colours?

[@CeramicJim]

I buy them online from ceramics vendors or a direct mason stain company. I have links in descriptions of other colored clay videos. I always use porcelain because it allows the colors to show up as bright and vivid as possible. You could use a really white earthenware or stoneware of porcelain is not available.

[@tamermalak8293]

Can you write a glaze recipe in the description please

[@CeramicJim]

I don't have one off hand. Sorry. Digitalfire.com is the best place to start/look.

[@samanthanicholson9015]

Where did you get the second set of color from, robins egg blue I have some for tie dye I bought from grateful dyes and a few from oriental trading company, are they the same?

[@CeramicJim]

Honestly I inherited that blue from a friend and tried to find more but couldn’t for the life of me.

[@samanthanicholson9015]

@@CeramicJim wasn't sure if that was the same thing as shirt color, greatful dyes in Colorado has alit of good powders. Which type that you recommend and what place to buy?

[@dbsartworks418]

@@CeramicJim you can get robins egg blue mason stain from Clayscapes pottery

[@leblancmeneses]

Can you provide a link to porcelain clay you used in this video? Should I be mixing my own clay for base consistency or purchase it? Great videos!

[@CeramicJim]

This is my own clay recipe that I make. Or at least it was, I've changed it since. Any white clay will work well with mason stains. White stoneware or porcelain. You could use lowfire clay but mason stains get richer with higher firing temps. Edit: Making you're own clay like I do is tedious/time consuming but it gives you more control. I recommend buying some just so you can get all the coloring down and see if you can find a clay that works for you. Have you watched my "How I Make Clay at Home" video?

[@CeramicJim]

and thank you Leblanc, for the kind words :)

[@kwi-haekim383]

Thanks for this video! Are the mason pigments or raw materials as stains after bisque firing (using water as carrier)? Are they also used in glazes? Thanks :)

[@CeramicJim]

The red, orange, green, blue and black are mason stains. They are mixtures of oxides and raw materials to achieve a certain color. The other colors are raw naturally occurring compounds. You could use them with water after bisque for a stain wash. Or you could combine with slip for a engobe or self made underglaze. You can also use any of these is glazes and it will change the color. Usually between 6-10 percent depending on the color.

[@emmah2215]

Hi! What cone can you fire mason stains to/ what cone do you fire to? Thanks :)

[@CeramicJim]

I use a cone 6 porcelain. There nothing wrong with firing lower. At higher temperature brighter colors like pinks or yellows can burn out but I haven’t had that issue at cone 6. Happy to help :)

[@emmah2215]

@@CeramicJim Thanks so much!

[@keramita3504]

Hello Jim, great video! I want to ask that what about the toxic oxides when they are glazed? For example if we make a green clay with chrome oxides and glaze it with foodsafe glaze, will the product be dinnersafe? thanks you!

[@CeramicJim]

Thats one oxide I would stray away from. Even handling the clay, especially if throwing wet. There are all kinds of oxides in commercial glazes so it's not like all oxides are bad. There is even chrome oxide in glaze recipes. I would make sure you have a glaze that has zero crazing or pin holing. A smooth, well fitting glaze is the best way to assure, as much as you can, that nothing leeches into your food or drink from the glaze/clay body. A foodsafe glaze should work fine. I still wouldn't use chrome oxide. Copper carbonate would be better and that still gives you a green.

[@keramita3504]

Many thanks for your reply! How can you find the dark green (like dry chrome oxide) from cooper carbonate ?

[@dosumi9899]

Thank you for your video! it helps a lot !! I have a question after watching this video.... how can I know some stains are toxic or non-toxic? I sometimes used cobalt oxides, I didn't know that it was toxic.

[@CeramicJim]

I didn’t know they were back in college when I started either. I did the same thing before I knew. A few or even several times won’t kill you but if you’re getting serious it’s a good idea to wear gloves. Like I said, some are worse than others. The black mason stain I used in this video specified when I bought it that it was a non toxic cobalt free black. Sometimes you don’t really know what oxides or Frits were used to make a mason stain so I would always wear gloves when mixing. I do now. It’s just safer. Once it’s mixed into the clay I don’t worry about gloves.

[@CeramicJim]

And you’re welcome Sumi Kim! So happy you found it useful!

[@dosumi9899]

Thanks a lot !!! :)

[@adrianaquezada3665]

Hi Jim, thank you for the video! Very useful. I tried to follow your method and added 5grms of Mason stain to a pound of clay, but when I took it out of the kiln it was almost white, hardly noticeable any color at all. So then I tried with 20grms. It got better but not nearly as vibrant and noticeable as I was hoping. I wonder, what do you think could have been going on? I just wedged 60grms per pound hoping this will get me to the result that I want, but I feel that something might be going on with my process.. Not to mention 60grms of powder it's a lot to add to a small 1 pound ball of clay. I'm using a lf06 clay body, which is white once it's fired at a low temperature (cone 05). Also, I wonder.. Are there colors that seem to dry up the clay? The first time I added the Mason stain in a dry form (like you did on the video) and it was really, really difficult especially with one color named marygold yellow, the clay turned out soft but also brittle. Because of the kiln I own and the place where it is plugged in, I can only make low fire ceramic pieces, I hope it's not the clay body the one that is causing this process to be long and time consuming. I'm guessing it actually is, wedging the color into the clay until it is integrated and has a workable consistency. Can you talk about the process a little bit? You make it seem so straightforward but in my case it hasn't been and I really wonder if it is normal or I'm doing something wrong. Thank you very much, I look forward to hearing from you. I enjoy your channel very much. ❤️

[@CeramicJim]

I made that video a while ago and have learned a lot. Here are a few thoughts of mine. I have little experience with staining low fire clay. Colors do get richer after I fire to cone 6 compared to my bisque. Reds, pinks, oranges, and yellows can be tricky. Some burnt out. Some don’t. You might need more for a yellow but 60 should be plenty. That’s more than 10% for sure. Maybe it’s THAT particular yellow? Are you glazing it? Some glazes that contain zinc oxide can cause stains to burnout or disappear. I’ve only read that though. I don’t think the clay you use would matter. Lastly, I have learned over time to add water as I add stain for the issues you are experiencing. I no longer color my clay the way you see me in this video. I roll out a long sheet, add half the power, spritz some water and then roll in up like a sleeping bag, fold wedge and repeat. Hope that helps. Feel free to reach out with anything else or Incase I missed something.

[@computerlover9290]

Love you

[@CeramicJim]

I mean, who doesn’t?

[@computerlover9290]

@@CeramicJim lol

[@en_127pt]

Hey Jim, does does the clay then stain plastic and wood when you're working with it?

[@en_127pt]

I don't wanna destroy the studio I go to, hehe.

[@CeramicJim]

When I mix the clay with the powders that does stain the wood but if I wipe really, really well I can usually get it out. I have boards I use just for mixing for that reason. Once it’s mixed though just working with it on a surface won’t stain it. Any transfer is easily wiped away with a wet rag or sponge.

[@en_127pt]

@@CeramicJim You're awesome, thanks!

[@ginniecrabtree4408]

If the coloured clay is used for casting with plaster, will the pigment from the clay wash off once the cast is ready to de-mold?

[@CeramicJim]

It should peel off pretty easy without staining at all. I use a lot of plaster molds for pressing colored clay into at it has yet to leave colored marks.

[@uatinella]

Pigment and oxide maybe affect the shrinkage of the clay, in a nerikomi work white and coulored clay sometime don't match toghether also from the same body.... how do you solve this problem? Thank a lot

[@CeramicJim]

I understand your concern. I suppose one could try to work with colored clay that is wetter to try to counteract this but the best practice is just very slow drying and sometimes even using special ware boards to hold forms in place to prevent excessive warping. @codyhoyt embraces the cracks as part of the process. I still avoid them. Sometime you get them, if you diving into nerikomi is kind of comes with the territory. That’s the best answer I can give.

[@TheLust4u]

Hey there, thanks for the awesome videos... very inspiring... and as such, I've just tried colouring some clay tokay which I want to throw tomorrow, but I have an issue I did not anticipate : the coloring process made my clay very dry and breaking. I keep it in a small plastic box since it's a small ball of clay. Do you know how I can re-moisturize it so as to make it throw-ready?? I've been hinted to add a wet piece of sponge in the box...?? Thanks for any help 🤗

[@CeramicJim]

The sponge will help. I’d slice it up a bit into sheets to help is soak up more moisture. Then wedge it all back together before you throw.

[@TheLust4u]

@@CeramicJim thank you v much, i'll try it that way, although I hope I won't have to wedge too much and ruin the effect. 🤞🏽👍🏼

[@CeramicJim]

Ahh. You want to keep it swirled got it. Yeah. Next time start with softer clay. Something tells me you already figured that out 😁

[@TheLust4u]

@@CeramicJim Well tbt it is not swirled yet, but I did pile my small balls of clay up already (12 layers) and would prefer to keep my layers thick-ish rather than marbled. Will see what I can come up with ! Actually my clay was rather moist but the balls were so small that it dried too fast as I was fighting the color powder's way into it (did not wedge, knead it instead for I don't have much room to mess around at home). It's only a test, I will color larger balls of clay at the workshop if I like the result. Anyway, love the videos and color combinations ideas, do keep them coming :)

[@naomiteppich2111]

How much frit would you add to the mason stain and which frit would you add?

[@CeramicJim]

I'm pretty sure 3124. It's pretty much a glaze by itself but I'd need to do a lot more research.

[@alexthegreat3078]

So ive been indulging into the world of clay molding and if come across quite a few speed bumps. I was wondering if you could add some clarification for my journey. Btw i got my clay out of the back yard and watered it down and tried to strain it through a sheet. It took forever so i just scooped the clay up and strained it through one of those normal kitchen strainers. Im positive no rocks made it through, however im pretty sure some fine dirt and sand probably made its way through, will this compromise the mold when drying it?

[@CeramicJim]

Are you using a plaster mold? Any rocks or fine dirt shouldn’t hurt the mold. Or are you just talking about clay? Earthenware clays are larger particles and sand mixed in and they work fine. The sand and coarser particles, if any, will add strength to your drying clay.

[@alexthegreat3078]

@@CeramicJim okay, idk what type of clay it is, i just dug it out of my backyard, its grey/tan and had a bunch of rocks in it

[@alexthegreat3078]

@@CeramicJim could you also suggest a method to the drying process because a lot of my molds keep cracking and i have to wet my finger and wipe it smooth again

[@CeramicJim]

Hand dig clay is always unpredictable. If pottery dries too fast it can crack. Laying a plastic bag over it loosely like a blanket helps. Or uncovering it even now and then. If pottery is uneven the thick parts dry and shrink more than thin parts. If cracks form but you only smooth them with water they will likely reappears. Trying knitting or stitching cracks back together by scoring/scratching at the first then smoothing them 👍🏻

[@alexthegreat3078]

@@CeramicJim ooo how do you do that? Do you perhaps have a video detailing that?

[@sankusambamurthy9954]

Where clay found to buy. Or how its made

[@CeramicJim]

I have a video on how I make it.

[@sofalvarez]

Which type of clay do u use?

[@CeramicJim]

I used to use domestic porcelain from Great Lakes Clay at the time of this video but they have since closed. I mix my own recipe now. It’s a semi translucent, cone 6 porcelain.

[@enitialdesignslimited6425]

I had this thought in the shower and figured out you can prob use powder to color clay. Great to know it exists. Lol. Was worried it would affect its integrity

[@alilahofmeyr4350]

Hey, thanks for the info! What percentage black stain would you recommend putting in if I want to actually get black porcelain? Thanks :)

[@CeramicJim]

I don’t go higher than 7.5. And that’s pretty black. Check out the recent kiln unloading video of knives. The black and blue knives have a 7.5% porcelain.

[@alilahofmeyr4350]

@@CeramicJim Thanks so much for replying!! And paler colours like yellow and pink? I was thinking I'd go to 10% for those... Also, haven't got a green stain but I do have copper carb, have you tried it? if so, what sort of % do you do?

[@srhsmustangmudhole]

Have you ever used black iron oxide to a clay body? How does that turn out? If I clear glaze after using manganese dioxide as body stain, would it be food safe? I know you said toxic fumes while firing, but my kiln is outside so I think I would be ok, thoughts?

[@CeramicJim]

I haven't use it personally. I have seen in recipes for black clays and recommendations are for sculptures. The whole "food safe" can turn into a rabbit whole of considerations. Is this food safe or is that food safe. It's hard to know. From what I've read I think it's easier to stay away. Perhaps go for a cobalt free black., Some people recommend using gloves for manganese dyed clay so I'm iffy on using it for functional pieces. Glazes that contain manganese dioxide usually say not a liner. Even if you sealed it well with a craze free clear I would be worried. If there are other options I don't know if it's worth the unknown. Hope this helps Andrea!

[@srhsmustangmudhole]

I broke down and just bought black mason stain, not worth the risk. I did my first agateware yesterday, thanks for the inspiration!

[@oss0369]

Would you explain how to make different color bricks if we back them on 1050 celcius in chimney. Eg: red brciks or yellow bricks

[@CeramicJim]

Red Art is a clay that is mined and packaged for its brown/red coloring. You could try adding some is small quantities to alter the color of your clay. Yellow might be tougher. You could try yellow iron oxide for a more natural yellow. All of this would take a lot of tests even for me before you get the color you want. Good luck!

[@philharper9782]

You do realize that you weren't wedging the clay? That technique is kneading (as in kneading bread dough) There are tutorials on both on KZbin. You do a good job explaining what you are doing otherwise. thumbs up

[@CeramicJim]

I understand what you are saying Phil. Yes! Many potters use the terms interchangeably and you're right, I'm not making wedges and stacking them together. I was taught kneading/wedging from my professors as all the same. Kneading/wedging, with the goal being to mix the clay, homogenize it, and remove air bubbles. I learned the Ram's Head method (like in this video), the spiral method, and then wire wedging (which actually IS wedging right?). Thanks for the comment! Gotta keep me honest ;)

[@apamukesh1111]

I want a oxide please reply

[@bontangpoolcharoen4626]

could you color clay by mixing in colored slip?

[@CeramicJim]

Yes. It might take a lot because the colorant in the slip is already diluted but with enough slip it’ll work.

[@deenaberton9909]

Can you clarify the way you reference the percent of stain? There are 453 grams in 1 pound of clay. If you add 5 grams of mason stain and say that is 1% black, are you saying 5 grams of the total 458 grams is a roughly 1% CONCENTRATION or are you saying 5 grams TO 453 grams is a roughly 1% RATIO? In this case, it's a rounding error but I'm unclear if you said say "10% color" to refer to clay whether you mean to 1 pound of clay (1 pound = 16 ounces) you would add 1.6 ounces of mason stain to mix a 10% RATIO of stain to clay or whether you would mean adding 1.8 ounces of mason stain to 16 ounces of clay so that you end up with a concentration of 1.8 oz out of 17.8 total or approx 10.1%. Thanks for the video and sharing.

[@CeramicJim]

I'm referencing a ratio. Same as you would for a glaze recipe where the base recipe is 100% and then for example you add 5% cobalt carbonate for color. That makes it easier for me. I weigh the clay, multiply by the percent I want and then add. You're right, it's not exact. It's more like 1.1% for the black in this video. I got into a little more detail in my other mason stain mixing video. There may be some more answers for you there. Right now I mix clay up in 10 pound batches and add 1 pound for a 10% ratio. So if I was making one pound I would add 1.6 ounces like you said. Thanks Deena!

[@deenaberton9909]

Thank you for clarifying. I appreciate your videos. @@CeramicJim

[@harisvukovic4465]

You should do a video where you throw some green clay

[@CeramicJim]

You got it! I'm definitely going to throw with some colored clay soon. I'll make sure to try some green!

[@beverleymurray350]

pink and yellow

[@CeramicJim]

I recent posted a video throwing mugs with a very bright yellow

[@snubbubble41]

I would like to work with Clay looking for opportunities

[@CeramicJim]

A lot of times community studios have programs or classes out can sign up for. They provide all the materials and equipment and you get to make work. That where I would look first.

[@rathodkuldeep7847]

Hello, i really need your help

[@CeramicJim]

What’s up?

[@ingriddeguarda9022]

Sous-titres en français svp merci 🙏

[@beverleymurray350]

ok

[@flexiblealmond1866]

Ohhhh! I get it! I watched this video twice and now I understand that it isn’t for clay that you play with! i think ?🤔

[@CeramicJim]

Ha yes. It’s for pottery clay. Thanks for watching!

[@christianslater191]

[@petercharles9929]

Too much work. Just buy colored clay. It's easier

[@CeramicJim]

You do have a point. My issue with that is colors are limited, it’s VERY expensive, and clay bodies are limited. Otherwise yes. It is a lot of work.

[@canadaverydry]

Too .... messy for me! : (

[@CeramicJim]

So Soap I plan on making a colored slip tutorial. That one will be less messy. Maybe you’ll like it ;)

[@canadaverydry]

4 sure I will! I love your videos! ; )