How to adjust timing - 350 Chevy small-block | Hagerty DIY

In this Hagerty DIY, Kyle Smith walks you through the process of adjusting timing on a Chevy small-block engine.
Hagerty’s DIY series is your handy-dandy, easy-to-use video guide to tackling small projects any classic car or truck owner might encounter during the course of ownership. In most cases, these projects require only basic tools, and our experts walk you through each step with clear, jargon-free explanations designed to get you and your favorite ride back on the road with minimal pain and suffering.
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[@RobertKohut]

Nice! Great to see some "old school" vids. Something to mention is that carburetor settings might need adjustment once you get the timing set.

[@freddrajna3338]

I've been working on engines for 50 plus years and finally at age 77 I understand what I've been doing wrong when I timed an engine. Wondered where the ping came from and why acceleration felt like I was dragging an anchor. Great presentation thanks

[@KL-uy1br]

I’m a rookie mechanic (max green around the ears) and this is my first time doing this. Thanks to this video and excellent narrative I managed to set the timing with very little difficulty. Thank you for the outstanding instruction video.

[@markjackson6134]

A little older (OK A LOT probably:)) but take advantage of these DIYer videos, when I learned (as a Greenie) it was reading oil stained books with missing pages:) and Ole School Shade Trees that were as quick with a lesson as they were with disparaging remarks:):) Man, these videos are so instructive they'll make you believe you can rebuild a trans on the side of the road:):)

[@wastedyears6653]

Don't take the timing light off until you tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Often times it moves a bit so check it again after it's tightened to ensure it's still where you want it before you unhook it and put it away. Sometimes you have to loosen it and set it again... its easier to have 2 people when you do it. One to run the light and one to turn and tighten.

[@mtnman6278]

Also that knob on the back of timing light is to check total advance. You bring rpm up then while holding it there you turn the knov until the timing shows back at zero and you read the knob which tells you the total advance.

[@paulkessler8622]

That is correct. Total timing is way more important than initial timing. The advance springs in most distributors are super strong and don't allow full advance until 4k rpm or redline. Not what you want. I take the springs out so you don't need very high rpm to achieve total timing while you're under the hood...I like my hearing lol

[@ghatazhak4265]

@@paulkessler8622 What RPM should total timing be at?

[@paulkessler8622]

@@ghatazhak4265 it's whatever rpm will allow the weights to fully extend out, depending on the springs you use. I usually remove the springs, then only rev it to about 2k rpm, set it, replace springs, and done.

[@ironhorse127]

@@ghatazhak4265 I like my total timing all in at about 3000rpm. 32-34 degrees on the sbc.

[@megastick9324]

@@paulkessler8622 sometimes it’s a balancing act. As parts wear things get off from the base factory numbers. “ stacked tolerances” will have an effect. So, when one sets timing to say full advance, the initial timing can be off enough to cause hard starting etc. The opposite is also true, setting initial time in general dead on and full advance might be off quite a bit. Personally I set the base, and check the advance, and , if need be, tweak either/or until a happy compromise is met. Easy starting and acceptable road performance. Now this is for a daily driver of course. A race or high performance application one wants max output.

[@jennandjackjohnson2579]

just fixed my truck thanx to you.. thank you so much you have no idea the stress and trouble you saved me

[@bryanrmcf]

It’s so beautiful the way it just started at the end... man...

[@coreybell9525]

im new to this and had a basic understanding. but have no clue how to fine tune any of it. this was very helpful in starting back from square one

[@noneshere]

You missed setting points & CONDENSERS. 😁 Match book worked good but they bite like Zeus if you did it wrong. Whiplash yer arm off your body

[@RichardDufault-fm7bv]

I have a comment I didn't unplug my advance timing after setting everything do I just unplug it and then check my timing again thank you I really enjoyed your video it showed things that other videos don't show God bless you all and have a blessed day

[@DayRider76]

On my old pontiacs, I just give it as much time as I can an still start the engine! Works good!

[@robbie8257]

Could not have found a more useful video, I have a 73 C10 with the 350 so it’s pretty much the same process for my truck, thanks

[@eddyhoek8919]

Vacuum advance does not give more timing so it's 'peppier', it increases the timing at part throttle for smoother running and fuel economy. At part throttle, the engine will create a certain amount of vacuum in the intake manifold. This is because the throttle is mostly closed and the engine is pulling against this restriction. Because the throttle is mostly closed, very little air is moving into the cylinders. So at light cruise, such as running down the highway, the engine is making much less power than it would at this same rpm at WOT. With less air and fuel in each cylinder, the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed compared to WOT. This less-dense mixture requires more ignition timing to complete the combustion because it takes longer to burn. As soon as you open the throttle, the vacuum drops to zero and the vacuum advance stops working.

[@arthurmoore1524]

Yea but what if you're advance is hooked to the manifold port on the carburetor that has constant vaccum?? It's already pulling on the advanced when it is idling because it's a constant source of vaccum. I've noticed on my several SBC engines (all 1974 and prior) they seem to like the advance hooked to manifold vaccum. "Peppier" from a dig, smoother on the highways. They also seem to run most efficiently on this side as far as fuel economy goes. On the ported side, they seem gutless and don't have that extra punch I like, also seem to run more carbon carbonous than hooked to manifold. All GM engines prior to emissions were hooked to the manifold side of the carb from the factory and factory specs calls for it. Now, late 70s and 80s engines, the EGR has vaccum, and the charcoal canisters come in to play as well. It's all got vaccum hoses. The ported side would be used for advance on these because of all that stuff drawing vaccum, and the ported side makes less combustible energy at idle than the manifold side at idle and low rpm. Therefore making it "better for the environment" then they went full electronic, no v/a. You have to pertain the brain of the " dumb " computer these cars are equipped with, or it will not advance and stumble upon take off without a vacuum advance type distributor. 1st generation of hei = Has vaccum advance, electronic ignition with vaccum assist 1978 and prior is a good idea to have a vaccum hei distributor. 2nd generation of hei = no advance, it's fully electronic. For models containing map sensors, tpi, etc. (Computer ignition. If you can hook a diagnostic tool to a port and it's all unmolested, you require a fully electronic hei 9/10 times. You may be able to hook up the old style to these engines but can't use a fully hei version on an older engine. For low horse power applications, and overall smaller cubic inch engines, especially if all the smog controll and emissions controll bologna & hoopla are still hooked up and functional, I'd definitely hook to the ported side of the carb with my vaccum advance But for higher horse, higher compression, Larger c.i. Engines, especially older less "fuel efficient" engines, with large cfm carbs, you'd want to most definitely use the manifold side. .especially on generation 1 sbc engines, or older engines equipped with quadrajets, holley from the factory. I plugged my ported side because I have no AC or accessories or emissions control. , booster and modulator are hooked to the manifold stand behind the carburetor, I also hardline all my vaccum hoses. Never worry about a cracked or melted hose again. Just a very small piece of hose from the flared side of my metal lines, to the ports. About a inch or 2 mostly, booster slightly more hose to allow for the filter. And distance but I'm still hardlined past the valve cover. It also looks cleaner this way, no coiled hoses, droopy hoses, just nice, symmetrical, straight lines bent by my skills to my satisfaction. By the way: your vaccum advance has an adjustment screw to control how hard or soft it pulls when advanced (how much inches of vaccum it takes to advance all the way/retract) for fine tuning, I always set mine to be the easiest to pull because i like dig racing and want "peak vaccum" & "peak timing" as fast as possible this assures it's running as efficiently and as powerful as possible when stressed to run high in rpms really fast so it'll pull as much air, be able to efficiently burn all the gas dumped with this air, and if its pulling and burning fast, it's putting out more exhaust pressure. There for getting the catalyst in the engine and the waste out as fast as possible. Therefore making more power with a lighter-sucking advance and keeping your engine internally cleaner. You can also tweak on the modulator valve the same way to fine tune shifting without getting inside the Trans, but this is discussion for a different time lol

[@mistermusic140]

Nice and easy not like todays cars where you have to be an automotive surgeon and have $5,000 worth of tools just to change a light bulb

[@thomashayes7423]

Vanmyster94 haha yep that’s why I have a 1983 Chevy 350 k5 blazer

[@1337penguinman]

You laugh but I've seen cars you have to take the front wheel off of just to change a headlight.

[@matthewhoffman9242]

@@1337penguinman my dad was a mechanic a while back and showed me it was easier to change the back most spark plugs on a s-10 with 4.3 from the wheel wells

[@KGisthename]

I am a collision tech and to be honest its about the same. You have to have knowledge to identify problems in old cars. Carburator adjustment, timing etc also skills you need to make them run right and be correctly tuned. New cars have a ton of modules and sensors, but you plug in your scanner and it points you towards your problem area. Not all of them are created equal though. Some people expect their engine code reader they got off of Ebay to do everything and promptly get dissapointed when they find out the astronomical price tags on scanners that do engine, air bags, abs, body modules, live readings etc.

[@KGisthename]

But I et the point you are making. News cara are like space ships compared to classics. I am a proud owner of a 1971 Chevelle and I also prefer old cars. The less you have moving around when the car is on, there is less to go wrong. Besides they have character and come from a time when hard working Americans expected quality when they spent their hard earned dollars. The new mostly plastic cars will not last anywhere near as long and there are hundreds of thousands of every model. Also not everyone is great with electronics. BMWs are notoriously bad with electronic components, though they have gotten better. They lose their value like crazy in just a handful of years because of that.

[@Soph27199]

Got a 69 gmc - they are great trucks!

[@stevenmarcinkowski8577]

scott web grew up w old Chevy and GMC trucks. my older brother was a Chevy technician. I'll never forget when he snuck a LT1 phase 2 cam and 2.02 heads on the old man's truck. pop could swear that it was running rough lol. gee I wonder why

[@markwillride]

Thank you for creating and posting this.

[@terrymoore9185]

Maybe it was my computer but I never saw the mark

[@olivedrabgarage6243]

I also couldn't couldn't see it...I'm guessing it's the refresh rate of the digital recorder per frame being a different speed to the timing light....it'd probably so much easier if someone could do a computer animation that isn't affected by computer/mobile phone screen refresh rate.m

[@gjjcgmail9930]

I also do not have a clue on what the light was doing or where it should be adjusted to???

[@richardmaaske7483]

Should of marked the the line on the Harmonic balance wheel. With white paint so you can see it better.

[@coleswanginshenanigans867]

Definitely going to help me next weekend when I go to time my truck

[@akbound.prepper5676]

Very well done I learned something that no one has ever told me before I did not know that your suppose to disconnect the vacuum advance prior to timing thank you and you said about 12 degrees before TDC I have a 1978 350 I need to get timed correctly

[@stevenmarcinkowski8577]

akbound.prepper dummy

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

akbound.prepper. I have left the vacuum line connected while setting the timing. In a pinch you can use a vacuum gauge. On a stock engine it should produce 18 to 22 inches of vacumm

[@tscooter22]

Man, the last car I timed was my new '87 Mustang GT. IIRC, I installed a cooler 160 degree thermostat and removed the air box silencer to free up the airflow a bit. I think I bumped it up 2 degrees and only used premium fuel from there on after. I used to do the fun meal deal on my older cars quite often. I bet I changed the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, condenser every year. Now cars can go 100,000 miles between tuneups. Back in the old days I used to think 100k was end of life for engines. heh

[@MrGrxxx123]

There is also a direction arrow on the pick up clamp. At mine has one

[@vincecarnevale4406]

I RECALL DROPPING THE hold down screw for the points down in the distributor having to take distributor out,some people thought the hold down screw held the whole car together,over tighting it😃.

[@JeffreyRiggs]

love the 3 pedals no problem shirt!!!! and thx for the video...

[@JohnyTopaz]

I saw that Dial Back to Zero timing light and was hoping you were going to show us that method. I was wrong. Too bad!

[@lancebrantlinger-tommy3558]

Hope this comment section still gets responses. I have an 84 corvette and had in the shop to have a pick up coil replaced due to no spark and fuel. So, that part is repaired and now I was told after it was put back together that they can’t get it timed and is running absolutely horrible. I did a complete tune up on it with no improvement. And recommendations would help.

[@toddrhine7648]

Did you ever get that issue fixed?

[@lancebrantlinger-tommy3558]

@@toddrhine7648 Yeah man. The idiots at the shop put the wires on backwards to the control module. That was the whole reason the car wouldn’t run. I fixed it then and has been driving like new ever since Thanks for checkout up!!

[@kennethdandurand3472]

One of us is messed up and I am taking no bets..... But I have the same setup, same truck model, et al. I went over the booklet with my Edlebrock and I swore the vacuum advance hose was supposed to be coming from the right (DS) tube on the front of the carb. You have it on the left one. Which is correct. I am tuning mine as we speak, so I will switch and see if there is any difference. Then I will dig out the instruction manual again and re-read.

[@paulkessler8622]

GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.

[@jerryhudson1066]

The vacuum tube to distributor advance mechanism has no vacuum source. No need to plug that tube if you disconnect from carb. Maybe keep a bug out! Carb settings may change since carb now has a vacuum leak. What might be better is disconnect tube at distributor. Then when you plug tube no carb mixture change. Since it is to be plugged to a ported vacuum, little change may occur at idle. Could run a little leaner at mid range with that open vacuum port.

[@rattle-can-resto5893]

Nice factory correct fuel infuser unit

[@joeygemini6390]

About safety glasses listen to him...WEAR THEM! Just a week ago i was installing a new choke cable in my current project car (a 68 Camaro). When cutting the excess unneeded cable off with wirecutters a metal flake about the size a fly's wing entered my right eye sharp edge first only an estimated sixteenth of an inch below my cornea. Only a tiny bit did not completely enter my eye. I was able to remove the flake with a pair of tweezers i was lucky enough to find in my house. I was wearing eye glasses (they are not big) and they were low on me as i was looking over them at the cable. Never again will i use my eye glasses as an excuse to not wear proper protection while sawing cutting etc!

[@elinino5275]

I thought dial lights you set your degrees on dail then move dist to TDC?

[@kepler656]

I went from sea level to 6000'+ elevation, should I adjust it to run advanced? how do I make it run leaner

[@marcelgeber6644]

nice explained.

[@georgespangler1517]

I set mine at full advance,, and check for spark knock on take off if none your good and get most out of your engine,,, and if you really want performance run high test fuel,,,the more you can advance without preignition the better it will run,,

[@cmf56]

Very helpful!

[@dennisryeater9047]

That's good. Is this the same for a 4.3 tbi v6 ..i want to make sure i don't break any good parts

[@TheMSTWNTD]

What if you sent have timing marks on the pulleys because the customer got aftermarket chrome ones..

[@willcorwin2401]

Is the timing light just used to get you close and the you dial it in by feel?

[@keithblair8800]

350 short block running rough. New gas Rebuilt carb No vacuum leaks New plugs No arc of plugs wires I am lost. Keith

[@dragomear_destroyer3488]

Where can I buy a timing light product u have there my girlfriend has a 1979 chevy 1500 pickup and it's having trouble with the timing and it has already been fixed 3 times. So I want her to be happy with a fixed up running smoothly truck from her late grandfather truck.

[@gustavomelendez5514]

It's a great job thanks for the video

[@Toe_Knee_Silva]

Awesome video 👍

[@johnmilner7603]

Invest in a cheap distributor hold down bolt wrench. There are only 2 ways to use a timing back dial light. Not many as this guy stated. A SB 350 likes 12-14 initial and if you check your total advance, it should be 36* all in by between 3500 and 4000 rpm.

[@GJJC13]

That 36* total advance you mention, ... is it with the advance hose plugged in or off? Thanks

[@puddanzig1]

So I am adjusting my timing how can I tell which way is advance going clock wise or counter clockwise?

[@elainec2577]

Fuel cam change the timing?

[@hiphopman72]

well explained

[@voithRetarded]

I have done it wrong all this time, adjusting the timing with the vacuum line plugged to the advance canister.

[@robbiefrentz9427]

Heck you can leave vacuum open as long as it’s running and 700 rpm or less .

[@jimmywells33]

Safety glasses lol! Where's your hard hat and vest?!

[@85goNham]

Thanks

[@whatchu_talkin_john_willis]

the description of vacuum advance in this video is wrong. only adds advance under high vacuum condition (idle, cruise, and deceleration) does the exact opposite as described as it drops the added advance at the hit of the throttle when the vacuum drops

[@paulkessler8622]

Correct! If you noticed, he has it hook up to the wrong vacuum source too, ported.

[@afella1129]

I know this is an older video...but I have a problem. I have a stock 350 with a 600cfm holley replacement carb, its running a little rich but ive heard it doesnt effect timing. the engine idled really low and if it wasnt warmed up it would immediatly stall when i put it in gear and tried to move it. i adjusted the time to be right in the valley between the 4 and 8 degree mark (stock harmonic balancer, stock timing change cover, stock adjustment notches, its all stock. n9t even a cam)...and now, it starts up really easy, the starter has no trouble...and acceleration is good, idle is good. but now that ive adjusted it, i get that really strong nostril burning smell. temp is the same, as it was before, right around 210. is it too far advanced? or is it just all of the gunk from running rich burning out? the engine does burn a little oil, ive been running a thicker oil and i also use the lucas additive and a ring sealer additive. its a beater truck i dont mind the burning oil but i also dont want to burn holes in the pistons.

[@paulkessler8622]

GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.

[@MauricioHernandez-st8su]

Nice video good information. But i have a question. Chevy 350 old vortec heads on it. All The process is same?? Thanks

[@paulkessler8622]

Same exact process, however vortec heads have a more efficient combustion chamber so total timing should be ~32 degrees. Inotial timing should still be around 12-14 degrees

[@cartroublewannafix8611]

Is it possible to adjust a timing chain from scratch on a 2015 chev malibu? I rotated the sprockets

[@user-df6rn6bx8h]

Hi I follow you from Saudi Arabia I have ford car with 302 engine the problem is that When i replace a new timing chain whit its gears some fair com out from the throttle body Not : the old timing chain was very bad

[@mrcoz1764]

What he say????

[@SOU6900]

I need to replace a missing timing tab first.

[@joseroldan3953]

I have a 1981corvette 350 5.7l rebuild engine with more power,how far can I advance yhe timer ,2 or 4

[@jacobhillanbrand7988]

I had a flex fan before they make to much noise

[@paulmallery6719]

And fly apart

[@YousifClassicCars]

To advance the timing, do we rotated the distributor counterclockwise?

[@danchambers4957]

Yes

[@Everything817]

You missed a step or two. Total advanced matters, and that's what you're going to base initial timing on. All you did here was set initial timing to make it run smoother.

[@Smalltechguy]

So you always remove the air breather when you set timing? Why is that? Just dropped in a 350 TBI. Is the sequence different

[@paulkessler8622]

No, it's not necessary to remove the breather. There's no reason to.

[@milesreid1825]

How should we know what the degrees should be and does timing change if not naturally aspirated

[@paulkessler8622]

Timing changes if not NA

[@Davalos213]

I got a problem. I haven’t been able to figure out or anybody. I have a 1964 Chevy Impala at 3:27 engine. I do believe it has a small cam. It has headers in the morning. It starts perfect once I drive the car around for you a while after that the cranking to start is very weak to the point where it cranks to the point where it wants to waste my battery brand new battery brand new starter only when the car gets hot.

[@Redface-o9m]

Question... just replaced the oil gasket pan on a 72 chevelle. Lifted the engine up to do this. After putting everything back in place and adjusting cannot get it to start. It turns over but backs fire but no real start. Thought it was the distributor but everything looks correct on that. Was told to adjust timing but how can I do so when it won't start? Frustrated to say the least. Advice please.

[@wyattgilley6884]

Well how is the Velle? all dialed in?

[@richardpaul495]

excellant

[@charlypetra191]

As you turn the Distributor it would be nice to know ccw or cw advances...

[@matthewhoffman9242]

I think Counter clockwise will advance the timing if I'm not mistaken, I believe the button cap in the distributor turns clockwise so the twisting the distributor counterclockwise will time it earlier, fixing to try this on my truck without the timing light. Took the air pump and charcoal canister off because it wasn't working properly and I think the motor is timed differently with emissions than without

[@tommyconner1467]

You can set these by ear, not sure why you would even need a timing light

[@silassmith354]

Adjusting timing was, is, and always will be a mystery to me. Timing a V8, just forget about it. If I ever do build a V8, it will be one with computer controlled timing, not this timing light gun non-sense that goes on with most antiquated V8s. So good rule of thumb, if you are still timing your old muscle car as with this method, also a good time to upgrade the distributor to a nice billet piece like the MSD Pro-Billet E-Curve to really take the guess work out of this timing madness. I've probably seen thousands of muscle cars ever the years and I doubt even half of them were timed right. Talk about a nightmare!

[@MyLonewolf25]

Silas Smith you still need a timing light to make sure timing is correct

[@LegendaryWoke]

You can do it hypothetically and by ear to avoid it running badly... Old timers use starting accuracy, ears, and engine feel/pinging

[@jeffreyl1690]

Doing timing is the exact opposite of 'guess work'...an e-curve gives you limited curve and degree options. For a norm to mild build...sure. beyond that, you'll run out of choices which are already few. Probably takes more time to set up an e-curve than a traditional anywho

[@beastinitup2368]

Lazyness will be the death of us

[@Johnleefromthemist]

Hello what model edelbrock carb is that just curious looking to purchase that same one buddy thanks great vid

[@noneshere]

1406 series

[@ronaldtrump7370]

What is the advantage of using the dial on the timing light?

[@paulkessler8622]

So you can advance the total timing to 36-38 degrees, which is waaay more important than setting initial timing

[@mjh123crh]

Just a FYI, Fords are either 1/2" or 9/16", I seen both!!!

[@maxymk123]

so you have to match up the line on the belt to the mark?

[@tommyconner1467]

These old school engines have timing chains, the crank shaft and the cam have timing marks that have to line, and when this is done, the engine will be on top dead center,

[@DeLosAngeles_24]

Question when I install harmonic balancer .. i wasn’t pay attention.. went turning so how can I fix 12 and 6 without take off timing cover ?

[@mrcoz1764]

to get your 12/6 position,,,remove NO1 spark plug and NO3,,,on intake stroke both will be TDC

[@justinhayes1983]

I have a 62 impala it has a 0 toward the bottom and an A in the middle of the timing marks where would u set it at?

[@paulkessler8622]

You want to use the 0.

[@robertdelao957]

I have 1980 C10 Silverado 350 5.7 my vacuum advance it's almost hitting the intake manifold, my truck starts at this location. Do i have to restab,the distributor for the vacuum advance to be set properly

[@Rumpleskin]

No...you can move your wires forward or backward on the cap to change the location of vac advance

[@bamaboy1944]

Which way do you turn the distributor to advance timing?

[@wyattgilley6884]

Counter clockwise on this application, or towards the rotation of the distributor.

[@redcloud870]

Nice

[@snow88boarder]

I thought vacuum advance was for steady cruising when there was lesser load and the mixture was leaner?

[@paulkessler8622]

It is. It also helps (slightly) with gas mileage, cooling and general efficiency.

[@yamahaguy1732]

My distributor spins free with the hold down bolt and clamp in why is that

[@TheStruggleville]

Those are Harbor Freight microfiber cloths hanging in the background.... hope you never touch your paint with one of those.

[@ak-xd1pt]

Do not see why do you need that electronic tool? Simply turn distributer cap.

[@sirjohnahayfalcon]

Every other time I drive my350 I get pings and when I goose the gas I’ll get backfiring. Wich way should I rotate my distributor?

[@John-Smith-007]

Hi ! Nice video ! What kind of oil do you use ? Thank you

[@ConnieVita-g1o]

110 Sherman Run

[@ignaciocastro4862]

my truck doesn't like 12 degrees..it sounds better at about 16 degrees? what could be the problem?

[@JonnyBravoTV]

measure the total advanced. Meaning rev your RPM to 3000 and then adjust to that instead.

[@wyattgilley6884]

Bro, every motor is different. I have put 20 degrees initial into small blocks, just check your total like Jon said.

[@peacepoet1947]

How come this channel won't take the time to help the people who have questions about what was shown in the video?

[@ramoncasillas4490]

I have a small block Chevy. 600 cfm carb. Rpm intake. What’s a good set timing for this? Thank you

[@wyattgilley6884]

I typically plug the vacuum line and rev the motor to about 3500rpm and set it at 36 degrees all in or total. See where it is at idle at about 750 rpm. If it lands at 14-17 degrees you are ok, Just remember all engines and distributors act differently, dont use your buddies tune. After that re-tune the carb.

[@ramoncasillas4490]

@@wyattgilley6884 thank you! I really appreciate the information.

[@wyattgilley6884]

@@ramoncasillas4490 ​ Sure if you have any other questions hit me up, I tune for a living.

[@707SonomaComa]

Is 12 degrees the best timing? How do you set total timing, like at 1,800 rpm? What should it be set to then?

[@paulkessler8622]

~36 degrees total timing

[@tristonmurdock4586]

I'm praying to God I don't have to retime my 305 when I get the new distributor in

[@alkoweski3765]

The timing adjustment is the easiest part of replacing a distributor

[@707SonomaComa]

You will...

[@theredspyder2112]

Any time I grab the cap like that I get a zap

[@dennishensley1150]

TheRedSpyder HE'LL YES

[@travisbird544]

grounding issue run new wires from negative post

[@davekarlen6591]

the vid was really good, but i dont see anything when it flash, no mark...

[@donaldpainter956]

You need a distributor wrench

[@roadstar499]

does turing distributor clockwise advance timing??? thax

[@MustObeyTheRules]

roadstar499 clockwise would be retarding. The rotor spins clockwise so to advance, you spin the opposite direction.

[@paulkessler8622]

Correct, counterclockwise advances

[@ramthaLord]

hi there i have a z28 1978 with chevy 350 stock engine what is the procedure to total advance timing can you point out any idea or info. thanks

[@mrcoz1764]

Back in them days most of GM`s V8s were timed at 6 BTDC,,,,thats 6 before

[@paulkessler8622]

My way is to take the advance springs out of the distributor (so you don't have to rev the engine to 4k rpm with your head under the hood), then run it at 1500-2000 rpm and set it to 36 degrees before top dead center. Then put the springs back in the distributor and your done. You can check your initial timing just to see where it's at. Don't adjust it again

[@Handlehandlebars]

Also 12° seems like alot of timing for a stock motor with stock cam...I'd start with 6 to 8

[@paulkessler8622]

No, it's not a lot. 14-16 degrees is more like it, depending on the distributor's mechanical advance. Engine tolerences weren't as exact and tight as they are today. 8 degrees inital timing is the factory number used as a "safe" number to protect their pocketbooks. The factory engineers actually found most sbc's run best at 36-38 total timing.

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

@@paulkessler8622 - Yep, 14 initial.

[@paulkessler8622]

@Nate W No, not at 36 degrees total timing you won't. Total timing is more important anyway.

[@dylnbxtr]

Glasses while setting timing. Is this really the same hagerty that produces the wrenchmen?? Especially when recommending to set the timing through turning via the cap....

[@_Greasyzoku_]

But when does Vtec kick in?

[@devindasilva8266]

What carburetor was sitting on top of that 350?

[@SargentRestoration]

Devin DaSilva an edelbrock, not sure of the cfm. Likely a 650cfm or something.

[@CarlosLopez-yx8ly]

What if i don't have a vacuum line going to distributor?

[@RubinsRacing350]

Carlos Lopez if there is no canister on the dist then it has no vacuum advance

[@whiteboyfromernul]

@@RubinsRacing350 not vacuum,its mechanically and uses weights and springs usually a set like,red,orange and white if i remember correctly,you can change springs up or down

[@robertmaxwell3548]

I have a Sun timing light, can’t get a new bulb. Some shitty product.

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

Or use a vacuum gauge.

[@paulkessler8622]

Not the right way to do it 😂😂

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

@@paulkessler8622 you sure? Because it worked for me on my small block and big block engines. But only in a stock form. Also my engines were able to start with just bumping the key.

[@paulkessler8622]

@@feeneysmechanical6215 Yes, very sure. Use a timing light to be 100% dead on, vs. using a vac gauge and guessing

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

@@paulkessler8622 not really guessing if the gauge is reading 18 to 22 inches of vacuum

[@paulkessler8622]

@@feeneysmechanical6215 It's still essentially guessing. The vac gauge only gets you in the ballpark, the light gets you dead on....but that's only for initial timing. Total timing is more important anyway and is what you should be setting you're to anyway.

[@mtnman6278]

Fanbelt is slippping.

[@jackaustin3576]

Plug the carburator not the distributor....

[@duncanconnors3122]

Friend of mine said u want as much advance as u can get away with and let him time my car however now it backfires through the exauhst

[@paulkessler8622]

Backfire out of the carb is a timing issue, backfire out of the exhaust is a rich carb issue