How To Adjust Ukulele Setup and Intonation - Got A Ukulele Beginners Tips

[@joshuabarkermccaddon7067]

Thanks!

[@GotAUkulele]

Thank you!

[@phel21]

Nice tips, but I would add a couple things. First, when taking out the bridge to sand off the bottom to lower the action use a pen or pencil to put a mark on one side where you think it is ok to sand down to. Don't take off too much. Instead repeat the process multiple times if you find that you can take off some more each time you test for playability. Second, nut-slots are often ok even though the nut itself is too high. Instead of filing individual slots, a process that many beginners struggle with, you can take the nut off and sand off the bottom, but be even more careful than with the bridge not to take off too much. To take the nut off gently score around its edges (ends and sides) with a scalpel or other thin/sharp knife to avoid cracks in the wood and finish around the nut when you knock it off. If the nut sits in a slot you may have to knock it off sideways, but it is usually enough to hold a block of wood against the nut from the fretboard side and give the block a gentle knock with a small hammer. With the nut out use a file to clean up the nut-slot, then make a pencil mark on the side of the nut and sand it down (maybe no more than 1/4 mm at a time) just like you do with the bridge. Place the loose nut in its slot, tune up, test and repeat till you get the desired result. When you are happy loosen the strings a final time and put a couple small drops of wood-glue in the nut-slot to keep the nut in place. Too much glue will make it harder to get the nut off if you ever need to do that again. Put the strings back and tune up so that the string tension keep the nut in place while the glue sets.

[@zeeet]

Wow. Incredibly informative video, i learned so much from this. Most other videos don't explain it so in depth. Thank you!!

[@GotAUkulele]

My pleasure.

[@boloboyd2]

***** Well done. Many thanx.

[@GotAUkulele]

Joe Dan Boyd Thanks!

[@nickiemcnichols5397]

Thanks for these tips. One of my Ukes has bad intonation up the neck. Now I know what to try!

[@1777DK]

Little tip. If you want to shoot for 3 mm, at the 12. fret, and you are now at say 3.5 mm. That means you want to lose .5 mm at the 12. fret. This means you want to remove double the height, from the saddle, as you want to lose at the 12. fret, so 1 mm in this case. This takes out some of the guess work, but as he says - unless you know your aim will be spot on for your needs, go slow and keep checking.

[@GotAUkulele]

Indeed - that works. Best still to do small amounts, constantly refitting and checking though, but i use that system to get close - just not all the way.

[@TheCobberK]

Thanks Barry - very helpful. I've adjusted bridge saddles before but find my granddaughter's Red Star cheapy is very high at nut too. Would it be easier to remove the nut and take some height from the bottom of that too so as not to interfere with string slots?

[@mandisnow25]

My husband is Luthier but only for acoustic guitars so this video should help him set my uke up! It's driving me crazy because the C string is consistently sharp when fretted. And also thanks to your video I can see that the action is too high. I love this instrument though, and hope I can get it to sound just right! Thank you for your insight!

[@GotAUkulele]

Glad it helps!

[@maybethistimenow]

Best to make a pencil line along the length of the saddle where the distance from its base is equal to the amount to be taken off. Also you only need to loosen the strings to get the saddle out rather than take them off. Also best for the amateur to measure in mm (1/8in ~ 3mm) because of the resolution of the rule.

[@GotAUkulele]

Bern From Wales Yes - good tips.

[@angelofmusic477]

Problem , I change to a new Aquila nylon A string and badly sharp side intonation is resolved.

[@photorooster8865]

I have a couple of Ukulele's on their way via the mail for my grand daughter and I to learn on. I will be setting them up myself and I appreciate the great advice you've given. My plan of attack is to check and level the frets, paying special attention to any fret that may be higher then another also remove any sharp edges on the sides. Re-crown as necessary. Smooth and re-polish. Add a smidgen of fret oil to the fret board. Adjust the action as you taught in the video on both the bridge and head nut. I'll type a follow up when I'm done to show whether or not I'm an imbecile... :-P

[@photorooster8865]

Here is my follow up. In short one ukulele was a success and the other a failure. Both instruments had some small issues with uneven fret height. This was detected with a fret rocker tool. I managed to get them all leveled and re-crowned using the Buzz Away ukulele fret kit sold on Amazon. I took down the saddle nut as you instructed and then worked on the head nut slots with files I bought from Stewart Mac. One ukulele turned out really good, which I gave to my grand daughter, the other I simply became over zealous or over confident and took too much material away from the saddle and head nut. I ordered a new saddle and head nut (They are cheap) and am going to start from scratch, this time being more careful. My advice to others is to grind and file less then you think you should and test often. Also be aware the base 3rd string vibrates more then the others, so when filing the head nut slot, allow a bit more height on that particular string. In the video it was suggested to use a piece of paper or business card to check string height at the top fret while depressing the string at the third fret. I would recommend the heavier stock business card, when I made it paper height it ended up being too much. Thanks for your videos, I'm looking forward to learning more as I go along and watch your channel.

[@GotAUkulele]

Thanks for nice words - yeah - with setups - all about going slowly and doing it little by little. Much harder to reverse things if you go too far.

[@andyloftube]

Mr Photorooster o

[@rickpalmer3340]

Hi Barry, many thanks for the information/instructions. The strings on my uke are standing higher than 1/8 @ 12th fret. There is also daylight at the first fret when strings are fretted at 3 fret. First question, which end do I attend to first, please, nut or saddle? Second question, should all strings be level when the edge of a rule is placed at right angles across the strings? I would be most grateful for your expert advice.

[@GotAUkulele]

Jury is out as some people say alternatives, but for a full setup I work on basis of most issues stemming from nut first then saddle. Which is a shame as the nut is the trickier one! As for them being level- depends on the fingerboard, if fingerboard has a curve on top, then no. Bridge should have a curve to match it. All that said, often you see a bit of curve to compensate for fatter C string to stop it buzzing, so a bit doesn’t hurt.

[@rickpalmer3340]

GotAUkulele Thanks Barry. I think I’ll have a serious tinker around starting at the nut and working my way down to the saddle. Do you know where I can buy the files to tweak the nut and the frets, please?

[@don4279]

Good luthiers are almost as scarce as hens teeth. They should also be very instrument specific. I have relied on the same expert DB luthier for years.

[@amandaheshka5684]

I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your videos. I’m just starting out and have watched tons of tutorials and reviews and have found yours to especially helpful. Thank you!

[@GotAUkulele]

Amanda Heshka thanks so much!

[@gw2031]

Do you file the nut slots the same as an electric, minimum gap at fret 1 when you vhold down fret 3 ?

[@GotAUkulele]

That's how I tend to judge it yes - hold at fret three, base of string should just about touch the top of the fret at 1. There is a more scientific way, but I find this works for me

[@hobbycow5346]

Love your videos and website! I have adjusted a few saddles as far as I can go before buzzing, but of course not too low. Ideally 2.5mm is my goal. I have been annoyed when I sanded a bridge too low only to find I have to shim it back up. My Idea: I plan to make a series of saddle gages out of thick sheet styrene and place them in the bridge to show how low I can go without all the test sanding and the dreaded shimming. Example, I’ll make a test saddle for 2.5mm height and place it in the bridge and see if the uke will tolerate it, if not, I’ll insert a 2.75mm test piece and then I’ll know BEFORE sanding the real saddle what the ideal height is. It could be a massive time saver. Any thoughts on that?

[@GotAUkulele]

Sounds a sensible and logical way forward!

[@lawshorizon]

I just knock-off the "nut" and sand it down until the stings sit at the height of a fret-wire. *No special files needed.* It should stay in place under the pressure of the stings, but use a tiny drop of cheap white glue to stick it back on so it doesn't move from side to side. The saddle should be at about 2.5 to 3mm at the 12th fret. Make a card marked for 3mm then rest it on the fret wires at the 12th fret. Eye-ball it while sanding the saddle down bit by bit.

[@goerkelgoerkeli]

I would like to ask you something I have purchased another Bariton Ukulele and the white bone on the bridge ist not straight like on my kala it is higher on the side where the D an d the G string is, sort of highest on the D and slowly ging down, is that normal or a factory mistake?I have never seen a ukulele with a sloopy bone before

[@GotAUkulele]

Depends what you mean. If you mean the saddle is shaped on the top edge, that is normal and is a form of compensation at the bridge to dial the intonation in correctly. If you mean the saddle itself is higher on one end than the other, that is 'possibly' to correct string heights, but generally speaking it should not be noticeable

[@brianhadley527]

Great tips. Nicely explained.

[@GotAUkulele]

My pleasure Brian!

[@stephanieboland6974]

I play other instruments but new to Uke - i was hoping to hear how exactly the saddle is placed, the direction of curve, etc. The person who re-strung my KALA left the saddle off!! Thanks for the videos.. understanding this ukulele much more with each.

[@fredrobinson6733]

What about intonation though? If, say, the 12th fretted notes are too sharp, how do I move the saddle back? Or do I buy one with a different compensation 'pattern'? Thanks.

[@GotAUkulele]

Assuming the string height is correct, you'd need to cut a new saddle to adjust the break point

[@fredrobinson6733]

@@GotAUkulele I'm going to shave 1-2mm off the saddle, as the strings are about 3mm above the 12th. So that may help, because their harmonic above 12 is okay, so it must be the fretting at the 12th that stretches them sharp. Thanks.

[@johnharrisjr.351]

Realize this is from 8 years ago, but feel compelled to point out that one should always have a chromatic tuner present while adjusting the nut slots. Removing material from the nut causes the string to deflect less in order to touch that first fret, so always make sure that the note at the first fret is in tune when you're fretting it. Going by string height (as this video recommends) is not a substitute for checking to see if your uke plays in tune at the first fret while adjusting the nut slots. Every uke is built differently, make sure yours plays in tune by using a tuner while adjusting.

[@manuelfresco6879]

There is one thing that often got's forgoten in terms of intonation. The fret slot of an industrial instrument are usely cut by a robot in one single step, so no mistakes possible. The Bridge is glued by hand using a template. Errors might happen, but it's anyway in the upper section. However have an eye not just on the height of the String slots but also on the position of the nut. Not well placed your whole intonation will be sh..t. Measure the distance to the first couple of frets an adjust the position by regluing the nut if necessary. Even expensive Instruments sometimes have there a week spot and the shorter the scale, the higher the tuning the more problems it causes. If you don't know how to measure, use a capo in the first or second position. If the so freted string plays well over the whole fretboard but the well tuned open string dosn't you know what to do. Greetings.

[@Greenmantislives]

Excellent advice, great video!

[@GotAUkulele]

Glad it was helpful!

[@angerock49]

Thanks! A very complete explanation

[@GotAUkulele]

Glad it helped!

[@labcoatliz1034]

I can tune my soprano uke open and it sounds fine, but any fretted note on any string is around 20 cents sharp. I’ve got somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 inch between 12th feet crown and the string. Should I aim for 1/8 inch space or go a bit smaller?

[@GotAUkulele]

That is clearly bad intonation - but could also be the nut or something more serious like a mis placed bridge or the wrong break point. Moving to the saddle though... Average for me is 2.5mm above the 12th and i'd never go higher than 3mm. ⅛ inch is over 3mm so very high. ¼ inch is 6mm and, frankly, unplayable!

[@labcoatliz1034]

GotAUkulele thank you! I’ll definitely adjust the saddle and see what happens from there.

[@the_nondrive_side]

I ended up needing so much removed I ended up buying a new saddle and actually sanding the bridge wood thinner and reglued it back on and started again. I had changed from 4 to 8 Strings and it pulled the neck a bunch.

[@GotAUkulele]

Adding more tension will throw things off like that. Surprised the 8 didn't just rip the original bridge off!

[@the_nondrive_side]

GotAUkulele original 4 push pins and a mandolin nut I only spaced the strings at the saddle with the ties for strings. I expected bad things too. No problems yet. Restrung a few times already no issues

[@deputiedawg]

Would the sound of cheaper ukulele like the Makala Dolphin be more sensitive to these types of adjustments? I guess what I’m asking is do they require a higher action to sound respectable?

[@GotAUkulele]

Not really - I don’t think action varies with price points. It’s either set ok or it’s not

[@schullieringer]

Is there any special care needed for removing the saddle if you have a pickup? Beyond just being aware that it is there. Is it easy to damage the pickup?

[@GotAUkulele]

Not particularly if you are careful. Just dont jab or poke the pickup or remove it from the slot - not that I can think why you would! The key with lowering a saddle with a pickup is you must keep the base of the saddle absolutely dead flat. If you dont, you will end up with volume variation between the strings

[@schullieringer]

Thanks you!

[@barbarahoffman2626]

Can my bridge be changed to make my Pono baritone strings closer together?

[@GotAUkulele]

Bridges can be replaced, but it's a luthier job - need to remove the old and re-fit - not a simple job

[@rochilapidus8843]

Is it possible to have both of those problems? In the saddle and in the nut?

[@GotAUkulele]

Yes - absolutely

[@Giantcaterpillar]

Hi Barry, thank you for great video and channel. I've just bought new Kala KaC and it needs some work. Nut is of acceptable height, saddle is a little high. I've got slight buzz on G and A strings open (?). Crowns of the frets are not very smooth and strings seems to be new (no "cracks" underneath) but sound thin. My idea is to use some steel wool on frets after covering the fretboard with tape, lowering the saddle and putting on new set of strings. What do you think? Is it possible that slight buzz on open G and A comes from old (but unused) strings?

[@GotAUkulele]

I'd rule out a whole heap of other things before I took wire wool to the frets myself - string change would be my first thing to check - this list may help you out - just go through them in order. www.gotaukulele.com/2010/09/buzzes-and-rattles-on-ukulele.html

[@Giantcaterpillar]

I will check it out. Thanks for such swift reply. Again - your channel here on YT is a delight.

[@GotAUkulele]

Thanks so much!

[@RICK12123]

Just wondering if a strip of paper ( or two) to raise the saddle will affect the sound transfer between strings and body. Any comments please?

[@GotAUkulele]

Richard O'Donoghue not hugely. I’ve don’t it lots of times

[@RICK12123]

GotAUkulele Thanks, I will try it.

[@derthm30]

Strings over First fret are very hard to press down. They are tight/tense. Third fret test is revealing small amount "daylight" at first fret. Action at 12th fret /saddle is perfect- strings fret easily, nice bounce to it. No problem tuning, and Intonation is good, Exactly one octave up at the 12th frets with no sharp or flat notes. My poor fingers are wrecked from this high action at the nut. Your advice would be deeply appreciated. I am not afraid to get there to do precision work with proper tools. Also not afraid of mucking it up. No luthiers even remotely close.:( I just wanna play my Thanks!!!!!!!!

[@GotAUkulele]

The first fret is not a good guide as the gaps are too small to measure. A small amount of daylight when held at the third should be acceptable. Issues arise when that gap is huge. It may simply be one of two things. First that you are just getting used to the feel of the strings (not sure how long you have been playing) - but this is a common complaint and will ease in time. The other option is to move to a lower tension string set. Doesn't sound to me like they are too high though.

[@deathysmile]

brilllllliant! learnt so much thanks :)

[@GotAUkulele]

My pleasure!

[@colin25250]

any advice on what type of sandpaper to use?

[@GotAUkulele]

+colin25250 Serious question? Large sheet that you can lay and keep flat - medium grit - you are not polishing the saddle, rather trying to take it down in height. Important thing is to keep the saddle base flat

[@colacadm]

Thanks. I just bought a Uke online and need to adjust its intonation. The local music shop increased the bridge saddle height but it didn't fix it. I suspect it's the nut height so I'll take it easy adjusting it.

[@GotAUkulele]

Yeah - go easy with the nut - much harder to reverse if you go too low.

[@colacadm]

@@GotAUkulele Hi. I was about to start filing the nut when I noticed that the G string is not parallel with the neck. I am thinking that this means the Uke has a bigger problem than just the nut. Is there a way of fixing this or should I return it to the seller? Shifting the string ACROSS the nut or the saddle will naturally change the distance between the G and the C strings. Does this matter?

[@GotAUkulele]

Fred Preston it can matter. The only real way to fix that is to change the nut... is personally be returning it as it’s quite a job

[@colacadm]

GotAUkulele Thanks. Back to the shop she goes 😊

[@marcinbo1692]

Hi, what do you think of making a grooves in the saddle, I hope you understand, sorry for my english if not correct.

[@GotAUkulele]

+Marcin Bojdoł There is really no need to do that on a standard ukulele. It is sometimes done on Banjoleles and Resonator ukes, but that is because the saddles are capable of slipping sideways and the grooves help. With a standard uke though there is really no need. Plus, once you make grooves you then have to alter them if you move to a different string gauge.

[@dronestuff3431]

Great video....What kind of pickup do you recommend. Using the loudbox mini. thanks.

[@GotAUkulele]

Huge topic and I use all sorts - I tend to stick with passive pickups myself. At cheaper end I've used Shadow and Artec strips. Mid range - Fishman AG0 series - and upper end - LR Baggs, MiSi etc

[@catherinemiranda2135]

Is action measurement from finerboard or the metal BAR? Thanks

[@GotAUkulele]

Top of the crown of the fret to bottom of the string

[@catherinemiranda2135]

Thank you. Now I can make an accurate measurement.

[@dazzp2]

Always top info

[@GotAUkulele]

I try!

[@98leight]

Do ukes usually come ready to play? Don’t want to have to do any of this and I’m a beginner

[@GotAUkulele]

Depends where you buy them. Buy from Amazon, Thomann or the big box shipper outfits and you will likely get a uke that is exactly as it left the factory - often they need this kind of work. Buy from a specialist ukulele dealer (and there are not a huge amount of those) and you will get them checked over before sale. This is my list of dealers who will look after that side of things - www.gotaukulele.com/p/ukulele-stores.html

[@Vegvísir7]

Hi Barry! Through your hands had gone a lot of ukes of the hawaiian "K-Brands" so far. Could you please tell me the average string action (at the 12th fret) they have at "factory setup". I am not able to find reviews about this point anywhere. Greets and thanks.

[@GotAUkulele]

I don’t think there is an average per brand that they ship with - you’ll get differences on even the same models. You want it between about 2mm (very low) and 3mm (high) at the 12th

[@Vegvísir7]

GotAUkulele, THANKS! Just was asking because i started to setup all my ukes by myself (nut and saddle, but without dressing any frets) and i come down to 2,25 - 2,50 mm without having buzz issues. I was wondering, if the hawaiian ones go far more deeper or not, just for have a point of orientation how pros do it. ;) Thanks again.

[@GotAUkulele]

Honestly - it varies - what you do tend to ket with K brands is a guarantee they will come within tolerable limits - but they can be high or low. Plus you occasionally get them set up badly too. There is no one perfect action height

[@Vegvísir7]

GotAUkulele ...Wow... i thought that they go much deeper because they put a lot work into a perfect finish. When i look at my Kalas, half of them came set up good, the other half came set up half-hearted. But all of them had the best conditions to set it up really good as i see now. Just bought a couple of Tenors for 180€ each (KA-ATP-CTG in Low G and a KA-FMTG in high G) and I am impressed how much tone and volume you get for your money here. I think the shop where i bought it decided to drop out the rest of their rosewood-fretboard ukes for a steal. :)

[@GotAUkulele]

They do put the effort in - that’s not what I mean. They just ensure they are set within a workable range. So long as not so low to buzz and kill volume, or so high as to affect tuning - then any action is ‘correct’

[@angelofmusic477]

I have a uke that intonation is really bad only on the A string. If I tune the string to A and play at the 12 fret , the chromatic tuner read A# -20%. Next I reverse the sadle bridge. By reversing I am increasing the overall length by 2mm over the nut and bridge saddle . Then I check the reading . It still read A#-20 %. I don't understand this.

[@GotAUkulele]

Don’t rush at this and there should never be a reason to reverse the saddle. First thing I’d do is swap the string. Could also be a dodgy tuner of course! If you are sure action height is right at the nut and saddle, I’d then be looking at a miss set fret or bent neck

[@angelofmusic477]

@@GotAUkulele Thank you, I will change a new ukulele strings

[@zozoart]

I was wondering what the relief should be on the neck if any.

[@GotAUkulele]

Relief? That's more of a guitar thing generated by the use of a truss rod. It's due to the tension steel strings create, plus the longer scale on a guitar.. That tension doesn't exist on a ukulele. Now... some ukes come with truss rods, but to be honest I have never understood why (and wonder if the brands that fit them know why either...). Kamaka, Koaloha, Kanile'a are three of the best ukulele brands there are - all refrain from truss rods and neck relief.

[@zozoart]

@@GotAUkulele Thanks for the reply.

[@RockCowles]

Barry, do you recommend stashing replacement nuts and saddles for our ukes? You say they cost pennies, but it looks like most sites want about $20.00 USD for one or the other. Is there a source you recommend? Many thanks.

[@GotAUkulele]

I've never done it myself but there are reasons for that - first - I made enough mistakes with lowering saddles and nuts years ago to know how much of a pain it is that I learned not to ever ruin one by going too low! And the second reason is for swapping gauges - in particular low and high G's (that's a fair reason to change a nut). But I have certain ukes which are low and some which are high and i'm happy to keep them that way. When I say pennies - I am talking bulk buying from China on eBay or AliExpress. You can get them for next to nothing. Pre cut nuts and saddles from music shops are expensive - but then they have done most of the work for you.

[@johnquinn4006]

Thanks

[@GotAUkulele]

No problem!

[@MrSpadasa]

Hi Barry! Thanks for the informative video. Does your estimate for the action of 1/8 of an inch at the 12th fret refer to a soprano ukelele or any type of ukelele? I've recently bought a Kala tenor with an action of about 0.19 inches at the 12th fret, which is quite a bit more than 1/8 of an inch (or 0.125 inches), and I'm wondering if the action is too high. I have no intonation problems, but the strings seem really hard to fret down on the first fret. I also get some buzzing unless I fret the strings really close to the fret wire. If I move a bit away from the fret wires, I risk buzzing, depending on how hard I pluck the strings. When I bar the third fret I can get a thin strip of paper to slide comfortably in the space between the first fret and the strings. Do you think I might have a problem with the nut?

[@GotAUkulele]

First of all ⅛ inch is a maximum and it applies to any scale instrument. If you are more than ⅛ on a tenor I would say you are certainly too high. At the nut if you are getting daylight on the third fret test, you are probably a bit high also. Which then poses the question as to why you are getting buzzing. Could well be something more serious (like a bent neck or a mis set fret) or equally something simple like a bad string. Certainly if you are over ⅛ inch I would say that is too high.

[@roymondo51]

But what does it say about adjusting intonation? Surely you're just talking about adjusting the action! Can you adjust the intonation on a uke if its not playing the right notes as your fret up the neck?

[@GotAUkulele]

roy stephenson Yes- incorrect action will affect intonation. Assuming the instrument is not built incorrectly, the maths of intonation requires the strings to be as near to parallel to the fretboard as possible. In reality, totally parallel is not practical or possible, so it's a case of getting it close. A very high bridge will change the length of the strings (think of them making a long thin triangle) and that will affect intonation. A high nut means the strings stretch as they are pressed down to lower frets, again affecting intonation.

[@BooliDeano]

Hi Baz! Thanks for making this video. I am sure many will benefit from learning from you.

[@GotAUkulele]

Thanks man!

[@JannikLindquist]

Would everything you say in the video apply to an 8 string ukulele as well?

[@GotAUkulele]

Jannik Lindquist pretty much yes. In fact all yes. Intonation accuracy is a function of the break points at either end. Whether 4 string or 8 - they need to be accurate for the uke to play right. Action is also partly about comfort and you’d want similar action for an 8. I tend to set them a touch higher as the vibration between strings can cause resonance and buzz, but only a touch.

[@colin25250]

serious question? yes!! answer "medium grit" perfect - thanks

[@GotAUkulele]

+colin25250 Trick is - to do it little by little. It takes time - but take a bit off, re-fit, restring and check. Better to do that than go too far and have to shim it back up.

[@weirdscience6820]

What's 1/8 of an inch in mm?

[@GotAUkulele]

3.175 mm

[@davidstewart8796]

What do you mean by the crown of the fret ?

[@GotAUkulele]

The very top of the fret. The highest point. Often frets are curved on the top

[@brianfergus839]

“STEUP”…. Nice 👍

[@GotAUkulele]

Dammit!!

[@sinjon]

I don't suggest sanding in a circle, that puts rounded edges on your saddle. Go up and down length wise

[@GotAUkulele]

Not if you keep it flat.

[@marciaewell2661]

@@GotAUkulele If you hold it with fingers, then I find it very hard to hold it hard and straight enough to hold it flat and sand in circular motion. For this reason, I also sand lengthwise when making a new saddle. The problems I have had are holding it 90 degrees straight up to get a perfect 90 degree angle on the base. I spin the saddle 180 degrees while sanding to help average this out. Or if all the strings intonation is sharp, sometimes I lengthen the saddle a bit by purposely sanding the base so the saddle sits back a tiny bit and help counter the forward pull of the string tension. I find lengthwise sanding can result in more bone being removed from the ends of the base of saddle blank resulting in a non flat saddle that has a "barrel" shape. I compensate for this as I go by checking against a metal flat edge looking for daylight and then make sure I press harder in the middle of the blank while sanding to help compensate. A jig helps to do all this and avoids the mandatory manicure which sometimes results in not only losing fingernails, but bleeding fingertip flesh. I would be curious what details others have to deal with saddle building and intonation the saddle to help correct the final intonation? I hope you do this video again soon and actually do a real set up so people can actually watch and see how to do it, more visual and less talking back and forth. Thx!

[@kenmccarthy2356]

Hi Barry, I bought a Pono ATSH 5 Uke some mths ago, which has a radius fretboard. The 1st/A string keeps slipping off the fretboard. Why is that & what can I do? I changed the stock strings. When I removed them, the nut came clean off of its own accord, without me touching it. The new strings hold it in place. Do the arc'ed saddle string-slots have to be matched correctly to the nut string-slots? Is there a correlation?

[@GotAUkulele]

That sounds odd - the only reason I can think of why the strings would do that is that the nut slot on the A string is set too far over to the edge - or the holes for the tie at the bridge are drilled too far over. Both would be difficult to fix I am afraid. I suppose the other may be down to technique - if you are bringing your fretting fingers down at an angle away from the neck you can pull the strings this way - try to ensure your fretting hits the neck perpendicular. Is it visibly more far over to the edge than the G string?

[@johnonorgan]

i shimmed with a piece of toothpick and i shaved my saddle on my pottery wheel with sandpaper now we can get toilet paper but we cant get sand paper all sold out and no deliveries.

[@cringyytanimation3417]

I bought and tuned my new ukelele Every string is perfect except of the a string it sounds very different it has a buzzing sound

[@GotAUkulele]

Have you gone through all the steps in the video?

[@chadjohnson-authormusician8072]

Thanks for the video. Wouldn't it be easier (if the nut is flat on bottom) is just remove it (lots of videos online showing hot to remove nuts) and take off height from the bottom the same way you do with the saddle?

[@GotAUkulele]

Yes - agree - although the vast majority of ukes these days tend to have nuts overly glued or worse still painted over - knocking those out can pull the finish away. If it can be removed easily though then I agree

[@pavanpatel4590]

What brand ukulele is that?

[@GotAUkulele]

Pono Mahogany Tenor Deluxe

[@ukmanthailand]

Have I missed something - you don't say anything about setting the intonation do you?

[@GotAUkulele]

This is one of the key ways to adjust intonation - this IS about setting intonation!

[@ukmanthailand]

GotAUkulele - You need to adjust the scale length not the bridge height surely? Not trying to be a smart alec but I've been playing guitar for 40 years and I can't adjust the intonation on a guitar by raising or lowering bridge saddles, only by moving them backwards and forwards. Now I have a cheap uke with terrible intonation and not sure what to do with it. Actually, it wasn't even that cheap considering how bad it is :(

[@GotAUkulele]

Ukuleles, like acoustic guitars dont have saddles that can move back and forward. Because of the mathematics of the string - the height of the bridge going up and down does indeed change the scale length slightly. It also improves intonation because a lower action causes the string to stretch less in the action of fretting it. If the nut and saddle height are set correctly on a ukulele and there is still and intonation issue, you have a more fatal issue like a bent neck, bridge in wrong place etc. To be honest, those issues are rare I find, but the string height is the culprit in poor intonation 99% of the time

[@GotAUkulele]

Of course, you can re-shape the top of the saddle to adjust scale length too, but that's a very difficult job for anyone other than a luthier.

[@ukmanthailand]

GotAUkulele OK, thanks very much for taking the time to explain that to me. If the fretted note is sharp at the 12th fret, would lowering the bridge be the way to go?

[@nickiemcnichols5397]

Baz, I'm thinking of buying some tools and offering setups because we have a lot of ukers here. We have luthiers but they charge a lot, and most people don't know they need a setup. Do you think I should?

[@GotAUkulele]

+Nickie McNichols tricky one Nickie. Whilst I know how to do setups I don't offer them as a service as I know that on occasion they can get complex. Last thing I'd want was being accused of making something worse!

[@GotAUkulele]

+Nickie McNichols plus the real number of tools you need to cover all hiccups is quite large and costly.

[@giuliamontesi1611]

Ty Barry

[@Hyperion_Studios1]

❤️

[@loreniversen8398]

got both my volumes up but cant hear you ,get closer to the mike

[@GotAUkulele]

First person in 12 years of making several hundred uke videos with various setups to ever say that. Suggest the issue is yours, not mine...

[@akipachoekie]

why are you scratching the ukelele ???? LOL Like youre comment

[@GotAUkulele]

Sorry?

[@MariUSukulele]

barry, pls allow me to make a suggestion. in order for folks, who are non-native-english-speakers, to get a better understanding, avoid metaphors such as "daylight".

[@GotAUkulele]

That's a metaphor??

[@MariUSukulele]

well… my "metaphor" is just a "metaphor" (as well). i ain't no native speaker myself. eerm sorry: i am not a native english speaker myself… hence can only assume that "daylight", the way you use it to describe what you actually do, wouldn't be the "official" technical term. i guess.

[@thijs199]

I bought a 20 euro ukulele ditched the bridge made my own custom one of ebony and I'm 100 percent certain it intonates better than this instrument.

[@GotAUkulele]

Good for you....

[@szrnkabela]

Cardboard shimming under the saddle will swallow the high tones and the sustain

[@GotAUkulele]

Cardboard? It will raise the action and that's about it..

[@GotAUkulele]

Depends on the card, naturally - not suggesting putting air filled board under there. Hard card will make zero difference. I've seen high end Hawaiian ukes which have card under the saddle as final quality control adjustment.

[@hni7458]

@@GotAUkulele I'm sure that probably goes for guitars as well, but generally - if one asks another pros, other than you, Sir, I mean, the majority would argue never to use other contacting surfaces towards the bridge than sturdy saddle. No shimsing allowed, they'd say. True, I wouldn't be that picky - or...yes, I would, at least with my Kolya Panhuyzen '93.

[@GotAUkulele]

@@hni7458 On a ukulele though?.... I defy anyone to tell me the difference

[@hni7458]

@@GotAUkulele That's what I meant, the principles are the same - no difference. The energy of a vibrating string is forwarded into the soundboard - where there is only one surface contacting area, and with that -admittedly, in principle and theoretically - the material properties of that contacting interface matters, together with the break angle of the string at the saddle top. Those are the basics. But pardon me Sir, I didn't mean to be offensive, quite on the contrary, and I thank you dearly for the advice you give on your sites.

You're talking about action not intonation. Change the title because it's misleading.

[@GotAUkulele]

I'm talking about BOTH. High action affects intonation. The title says 'Setup and Intonation'. The description says 'action, playability and tuning accuracy'. There is nothing misleading

@@GotAUkulele Not that much, I have a good action and a crappy intonation.

[@GotAUkulele]

Action is not the ONLY cause of bad intonation. But it is a major culprit when very high.