How To Align Your Lathe

[@joegarrett7580]

I saw what you did there @ 6:13. You need to get the level across the 'flat spots of the ways' but the prismatic sections are 'in the way'. :)

[@Blondihacks]

😬😬😬

[@JaneGraeSmithy]

I worked for several of the highest precision large machine tool companies and gained a reputation as machine leveling “expert”, and you still taught me something. In this case, it was finding that there will be an orientation on your surface (plate) where the level will read level. Great video.

[@Anony___mous]

I've been a machinist for 12 years and I've never seen a lathe leveled this way. It makes so much sense! and now you've given me something to do tomorrow lol. p.s. I'll keep an eye out for a good deal on a tenths indicator I can donate to the blondihacks cause!

[@codprawn]

This method is show in my old Colchester lathe manual from 1964!

[@laurencestonard4593]

@@codprawn and my Myford from 1960…., good video 👍

[@chuckthebull]

Yeah and that awsome Sterrett level...I did not realize you can calibrate a level that way too.. an old dog can learn new tricks

[@donziperk]

@@chuckthebull I didn’t know that trick either so I tried doing it to a couple of my construction levels. One went in the garbage and the other is now for rough work.

[@charlesmenz5555]

😊

[@TheFeller1554]

The toothpick scale model was a brilliant representation of both ability for machine movement and the effect in real time. Great job!

[@FabtecS5]

How refreshing, someone who really knows what they're doing and methodically walks you through the whole process - CORRECTLY! Thank you.

[@mattw7949]

It's good that you show your mistakes. I think too many teachers are inclined to edit those out for reasons of pride, but so much more can be taught by sharing them. Great stuff.

[@davesmith9325]

The best tutorial on levelling i have ever seen !

[@johnnycab8986]

It's incorrect. I did it this way and the level was not calibrated (well, it was impossible to calibrate it using this method). If you search for the level axis using a level that is not calibrated and use the bubble in the center, that is not going to be the level axis of the surface plate. You have to find the axis where there is equal discrepancy in both directions, that is the only way to find the level axis with non-calibrated level. After you find the level axis, you adjust the level to get the bubble level, you will have to keep rotating the level and splitting the difference closer and closer and this will probably require very small re-adjustment of the 123 blocks/reference edge. Also, do not fiddle with the screw side as shown in this video, there are small half balls under there which are meant to be the pivot point of the level, you adjust the nuts, not the screw. The incredibly thin slot for the screw is there on purpose to make people avoid fiddling with that side as it will require a specialty slotted head if you want full contact and not risk marring the slot.

[@machineworld1873]

Me too

[@jefflyon100]

It had been years since I needed to do this. I found a couple other videos on this but gave up, they were long winded and left more questions than answers. You were clear, concise and I walked back into the shop knowing exactly what i needed to do. Great video, thank you!

[@frankhaydon658]

I am lacking machinist level with an old Taiwan lathe that has never worked well(always cutting different at the extremes) I chucked up a pencil laser in the head stock an ran at maximum rpm and put a piece of white paper on the end of my tail stock and tweaked the bed until the laser image was centered on the tail stock. The image stayed centered when i moved the tail stock next to the chuck. The test cuts were right on. You can shim the lathe with the machine running.

[@michaelhayward7572]

Newbies take note. You can learn a lot from this lady. Very well explained, great production, very enjoyable. Congrats

[@oldfarthacks]

@@ManicSalamander I love that she shows her oops, those are the biggest learning moments.

[@sick-Willie]

As a machinist with over 20 years experience, though I've never had to perform a machine leveling, this is correct and very well explained. Excellent job sharing info and procedure to keep a dying trade alive!

[@mikeznel6048]

Reql quick. If one has been a machinist over 20 years, and one has never performed any leveling, how would one know it to be the correct way and very well explained?

[@kBIT01]

This should be added to the lathe skills Playlist.

[@jeffanderson1653]

Very well done. When you moved the tail stock, I said to myself, “Blondie, you are going the wrong way”. I didn’t expect you of all people to misjudge the correction. You made a complicated process easy to follow. Thank you.

[@Blondihacks]

The inside of my head is like cold scrambled eggs. It’s amazing anything comes out right at all.

[@kennethelwell8574]

So many instructions assume that one will just follow along to a perfect result. Some of the most useful and memorable, however, point out the places where you can make mistakes and how to correct it!

[@RobertSmith-st1fr]

Great instruction( as all yours are) I spent 4 hours on my "new" 1939 southbend 9"c, and got a final of .0002 taper per foot- decidedly the best Ive ever done. Thank you, and keep up the good work.

[@JohnMcClain-p9t]

I work on my "new" 48 Logan ten inch, but I learned on a thirties southbend back in the seventies. It's good to know I'm not alone in the old iron.

[@robjohnson1138]

I’m just an amateur (recovering woodworker), but this has got to be one of the most informative videos I’ve ever seen. Simple, understandable, and doable by most dummies (and by “dummies” I mean “me”). Now I need to figure out how to mount my mini-lathe on something OTHER than a table made from 2x4s and plywood. (Old habits die hard).

[@PorchPotatoMike]

Rob Johnson Welcome to the Dark Side!

[@smellsofbikes]

If it's a thick table, that's not a bad mounting. Ideally it'd be mounted on concrete, sure, but something that's equivalent to 5" thick wood is pretty resistant to deformation. A sufficiently stiff table can lend a wimpy lathe extra stiffness, though, so error towards overkill.

[@OldtimeIronman]

Get a surplus chunk of granite counter top off Craig list, bolt lathe to that

[@wisdombear4965]

Mounted mine to a commercial metal 2" thick door 7 1/2 foot long. on wood frame for drawers.

[@roadshowautosports]

@@OldtimeIronman I’m new at this and always been afraid of using granite and break it if something like stock fell on it, an I just being overcautious? Thank you for sharing!

[@Kostas_Xen]

Congratulations for your amazing Channel!

[@TCB031]

Best explanation and process to correct that I've seen yet!

[@mhe0815]

We, the lathe noobs, salute you. Finally a video about leveling in practice that I understand, thank you so much for this!

[@frankcire1439]

I love your content, it's great seeing machining from a hobbyist's viewpoint without a model maker's overlay. As an amateur machinist, I machine things for my other hobbies and machining is just an adjunct to those hobbies. I don't make models, I make modifications and repairs to other items. I also like how you aren't a machine snob. A new Chinese manufactured machine is often a better bet than an old American machine that has a lot of wear issues, especially if you are going be making small parts.

[@sks04221968]

One of the most straightforward explanations of how to do this that I have seen!

[@dcsensui]

When I got my lathe a year ago, I saw this and made a custom cabinet/stand for my lathe out of steel tubing. The lathe is bolted to the steel frame, and the steel frame is bolted to the concrete floor. There's also adjustable bolts for the frame's feet. To take twist out of the lathe bed, I loosen the hold-down bolts on one end of the cabinet's frame, adjust the feet as needed, then re-tighten the hold-down bolts. Thanks for all the great information and ideas!

[@hairyfro]

Where were you a year ago when I did this? You put together all the info that I scraped together from ToT, Tom Lipton, and others. You're doing an amazing service for the hobbyist machining community by putting all this info into a concise series. One of my long term goals is to build a spanning beam lathe stand which would allow me to adjust twist by turning bolts instead of inserting shims under the feet. Should allow much better control and make the whole process easier.

[@cyoung4290]

Great video, I’m a newbie, recently retired from the military and building a new shop with new-to-me used Lathe and Mill… learning a lot from your videos, Thank you very much!

[@saneemp]

Best demonstrated lathe alignment video in KZbin. Nice job. Appreciating your efforts.

[@practicemakesbetter7132]

In my humble opinion, this video is your best work so far. It was entertaining and informative. Keep up the good work!

[@Blondihacks]

Aww, thanks! 😄

[@isaacsra]

I've heard about Finite Toothpick Analysis, but never seen it in use...

[@Blondihacks]

That was Toothpick360, the new CAD software that all the cool KZbin kids use.

[@kmet2000]

Hi I have seen many howto videos on unwanted taper. Also from machining youtube superstars. But this one from a fine lady beats them all. Both in explanation an execution. Well done! Wery well done!!!

[@Blondihacks]

Aww thank you! ☺️

[@aodhmacraynall8932]

these are some of the best machining videos Ive seen

[@Blondihacks]

Wow, thank you! ☺️☺️

[@aodhmacraynall8932]

@@Blondihacks Don't get the big head; it'll dull your edge.

[@oldfarthacks]

She is good enough to be in a very select and outstanding group. Yes, Joe does pick on her from time to time, but he also shows her respect, as he should given that she does not have his shop.

[@ninthm00n]

Lovely yet again Quinn. You have a true gift for teaching .

[@toshadavinci5379]

Greetings from NZ Quinn. I learnt a bit from this. After doing a 9000 hour railway apprenticeship in fitting turning and machining we never delved in to alignment to any great degree. Thank you Quinn. Im looking at buying my first lathe upcoming and look forward to working precision on a lathe that hasn't been abused. If videos like this existed 40 years ago ........

[@joelee2371]

Videos may not have existed them, but the knowledge did. You'd be surprised what you can find in your local library or online archives.

[@kendonahve924]

Thanks!

[@samvillanueva8778]

Instant like and subscribe! Not many people can make a proper and concise machining video. Thank you!!!!!!!!?!

[@Trimadian65]

Hi Blondihacks, Sheldon from down under here. I have been a home machinist for a number of years now. Your video of how to reset the bed is awesome. I have had problems with my lathe turning tapers etc, as the lathe was dropped when I was shifting. I have tried your technique and the lathe is now within 2 10ths (6 inch) out of the chuck. Before, it was running about 3 tho of run out. You are one of the best machinists I have come across to explain all this machining in detail. By the way I have 2 ragdolls that help me on the lathe too! Damn fur!

[@seanwhitley7026]

One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. You made everything easy to understand and the videography was excellent. Thank you!

[@madscientist5969]

@Blondihacks - - - You make it seem so straightforward...! I really like these technical explanations of machine operations and metrology in general. Merry Christmas!

[@walterjoncas12]

I always enjoy your lessons. A wonderful mix of skill, science and of course well timed levity.

[@DCFusor]

"Don't push the shim all the way under, you'll never get it out again." Words of wisdom, no doubt learned from hard experience.

[@oldfarthacks]

Quinn would not have pushed that all the way under, right?

[@Bullfrogerwytsch]

I'm not a machinist. I just like watching machinist videos... also you're voice is soothing.

[@robc8468]

Brilliant video I have seen a lot of machine shop videos on you tube yours are the best. Most of us out here in the real world have Chinese or maybe Taiwan made equipment and need to know how to optimize what we have. A lot of machine shop snobs tell us to buy the mostly mythical pristine USA made lathe or mill for an affordable price which rarely if ever exist in reality. By far most of the affordable domestic machinery is huge clapped out industrial size machinery that would require even more work and expense to bring up to standard and would require expensive shipping and riggers to set in place and 3 phase electricity which almost nobody has at home. Sorry to rant but well done lathe leveling and set up video.

[@sharkbaitsurfer]

I'm about to go through this, you're an excellent teacher which is the highest accolade I can give.

[@4SafetyTraining]

Had to stop watching an old western for this, but it was worth it....THANKs

[@martinw9425]

Wow !that was great. I will check my lathe with this method. Thank you.🤩

[@tomsmith3045]

Most clear and concise demo of this that I've ever seen. Thanks!

[@usethenoodle]

I had to move to a new shop with my lathe. I reviewed this video I had used 3 years ago to set up my 10X22" Grizzly when it was new. using these techniques I was able to get it cutting at 2/10,000" over 5" in about 2 hours. Thanks for the second time! I have the same Sterrett level, bought it used on eBay after watching this the first time. It took a .020 shim on the tail stock rear corner.

[@W020-j9o]

Excellent narration. Concise, complete and accurate. Also entertaining in a low key way.

[@danielstewart3507]

Quinn: You're going to need an assortment of precision shim stock. Me: *Goes through recycling bin and assumes Pepsi Max is thicker than Pepsi.*

[@Blondihacks]

Soda cans do make pretty good shim stock for that one size. They are made to remarkably precise thickness, to minimize cost of material. 😀

[@Bennyboy-dog]

@@dsloop3907 are you talking about using the skin off a potato? (I really never heard of peel shims, so now I know - thanks. - All the best for the festive season too.)

[@kevinmartin7760]

I wonder if cans are a consistent thickness from top to bottom. If they aren't you could use two strips back-to-back in the way wood shims are used in pairs in construction. They would act like the two halves of an adjustable parallel.

[@mutasimaldory]

Would ordinary soda can material (made, presumably, from aluminium) not be too soft and likely to crush/deform?

[@UrsusSuperior44]

Actually laughed out loud 😂

[@marcmckenzie5110]

Your timing is impeccable. I recently bought that brand's tool that you had to obfuscate in the video, and I'm almost caught up enough on other shop issues to spend a day (I'm slow) calibrating the bed and the tailstock of my lathe. You are a born teacher! To true my mill head, which has neither nod nor tilt adjustments, I had to use shim stock. It was a special form of hell because I had no help in levering the column between shim permutations, but it paid off! So I'm sure it will on the lathe, too.

[@DARANGULAFILM]

Thank you for this presentation. I have a 20 yr old Taiwanese small "desk" lathe which was apparently made for US high school trade classes. I also do little more than dabble, mostly turning down bolts or making custom lens mounts. It has a very short bed and beyond the four corner bases under the machine itself, there are no other apparent alignment adjustments. I found it adequate for making my custom lens mounts with alloy and flowcast bronze with sharp tools. Machining steel became difficult but doable. However I just about dropped down on the floor in a dustraising tantrum the first time I tried machining along any length. It also flexed too much for ceramic cutters to be used which either rode or dug in. I have fixed it down to a very heavy solid piece of construction steel "C" section. It no longer chatters so easily and the longer cuts have improved even before any shimming which needs still to be done. Your presentation is very helpful for making what finer adjustments yet need to be done. I also made a recirculating feed for cutting oil by adding a drain tube to the chip tray, using a GM powersteer pump in a small oil tank and a washing machine motor to drive it.

[@TomMakeHere]

Good video If the tailstock is still out it may be worthwhile checking the vertical alignment as well I had to shim mine a year ago after discovering wear

[@drd1924]

Great Vid with all the correct tricks in the correct order for aligning a lathe. For those who have adjustable feet/bolts at each corner, once you get close it will only take like 1/16 of a turn or less at one corner to make a noticeable difference. Make sure you lock the locknut down at each adjustment because if you forget and everything is square to the world, THEN have to lock the locknut, it will change simply due to bolt stretch.

[@kgee2111]

I have one of those Starret machinists levels. I love it but have never calibrated it. Thank you Blondihacks!

[@kevinmartin7760]

No one ever seems to mention alignment of the tailstock ram with the ways. If this is off, you can do the alignment as you described but if you then set up your work with the ram extended a different amount, the alignment will be off.This can be checked by doing your tailstock alignment procedure with the tailstock as close as possible to the work and the ram retracted as much as possible, then doing a test cut with the tailstock farther away and the ram extended as far as it goes. Any difference is due to the ram not being aligned with the bed. There is seldom any adjustment for this, though.

[@lordchickenhawk]

Nasty! I've run into a lathe with a non-adjustable head mis-aligned with the bed from the factory... but I failed to test for the particular possibility you mentioned... then I s'pose with the head out and stuck there, the tail stock was irrelevant after that. We didn't have the means to correct the headstock...

[@oldfarthacks]

@@lordchickenhawk About the only way you could correct that would be to recut the v on the bottom of the headstock to bring it into alignment. You would have to shave off the bottom a bit and then do some real careful scraping. But that would be the only way.

[@lordchickenhawk]

@@oldfarthacks It was a brand new lathe (from Romania IIRC). It was very cheap and we got what the boss paid for. It was thrown straight into production regardless. It got neither concrete foundations nor bolted down. As little money and effort as possible was expended. So I bodgied the problem by twisting the bed with the feet jacking screws... For some odd reason it was not very good to work with...

[@siggyincr7447]

Great instructional video on an often overlooked subject, even by a lot of experienced machinists. The only thing I could think to add is that used lathes can have significant wear on the ways themselves that is usually concentrated on the part closest to the spindle (90% of lathe use is within inches of the chuck). The uneven wear pattern on the ways can mess with the alignment process.

[@oldfarthacks]

The best way to fix that is to install a CNC control, then you can program in your error table for correction factors.

[@Kevin-ib4gv]

I discovered you today, watched 2 of your videos so far, and immediately subscribed after the first one! Believe me when I say this, both content and presentation is spot on and probably the best I've seen on youtube ever. Thank you so much for these videos, especially this one on leveling the lathe as you've answered some questions about leveling that have bugged me for quite a long time... "lathes aboard ships work perfectly fine" . I've always wondered if being level headstock to tailstock made a difference....now I know!!

[@Blondihacks]

Aww thanks for the kind words, and for the sub! ☺️

[@twocan90]

Superb video, Blondihacks! Thank you for explaining the minute adjustments required to remove twist. Your videos are a testament to your machining AND teaching skills.

[@johndufford5561]

Great stuff! Demystified the text & bad photographs in my lathe manual. Thank-you very much. Also LOVED the insert of the earth with the "Not to Scale" label! Only on screen for a moment, but it cracked me up! Thanks for that, too.

[@RubenKelevra]

Cool! *Writes a lathe on the shopping list*

[@RubenKelevra]

@@railgap I'm sorry but I don't trust american made tools. I've got a Heuer wise and I'm pretty happy with it.

[@RubenKelevra]

@@railgap Kurt vises are (hopefully) still made in the USA. 🙄

[@joea9206]

Great methodical video. Anyone who does this will be glad that they took the time every time that they use the machine. I have used an alternative method in the past. After taking the twist out of the ways like you expertly demonstrated, I have chucked on a long bar that was as perfectly cylindrical as i could find or make. If using a CNC, taper moves can be used in a turning operation to make one. I indicate that bar while rotating the chuck by hand until it runs true close to the chuck and also at the far end, thus establishing the true center line of the rotating axis. A four jaw chuck or buck chuck helps with this. Getting it true at the front first. then tapping the far end, usually having to go back and forth to get it good on both ends. It's critical that the bar is solidly mounted in the chuck so that rotation doesn't affect it. Once I got good run-out on both ends, an indicator mounted on the tool post with the tip on the bar allowed me to tweak it in by traversing back and forth with the spindle off. For the tail stock adjustment, a 60 degree center for the chuck end can be made on the machine if one is not available, this also assures that it runs true if not disturbed after the turning of it. Keep up the great videos.

[@bkoholliston]

Nice video but I have a cautionary note: I broke my tailstock casting trying to adjust it with the locking lever (holding it to the ways) locked. On smaller lathes, that lever clamps the tailstock down and clamps both halves of the tailstock casting together at the same time and the adjusting screws push on cast "ears" inside the casting. Well if you have it locked down and you don't see your indicator moving and you keep cranking on the adjusting screws, eventually you doink off one of the ears. Fortunately parts were available and I have to think that I fit the new casting more carefully than the person at the factory did. I also now use the Richard King tailstock alignment method: measure the tailstock quill diameter as close as you can, then carefully turn a small test piece in the chuck to that exact diameter. Now mount an indicator on the cross slide and bring the tailstock quill up to touch the turned piece. As you move the indicator from test piece over to quill you will see the indicator move. You need to measure in two orthogonal planes, across the top of the quill/part and either side of the quill/part. This tells you the direct offset you need to adjust for very quickly. I have mine set slightly high (0.0005) in the vertical direction to account for droop when everything is hanging out. By the way, you cannot spin the indicator around the quill using the lathe spindle since gravity is working against you--even if the alignment is perfect gravity pulls the indicator so it will read differently on the top and bottom of the quill.

[@Blondihacks]

That’s a good note- depending on the tailstock design, it may need to be unlocked for each adjustment.

[@oldfarthacks]

@@Blondihacks The Chinese ones for the Mini Lathes have that issue, along with the bolt that locks the two halves together is located on the underside of the footplate.

[@donniee1934]

Great, thank you for showing how to "level" the level. 78yo and still learning.

[@petersd-maxadventures8079]

Thank you. I have tried for months to align my 1440 lathe. I have been mucking around at the chuck end thinking it was that. 10 minutes spent on the tailstock and bingo.....perfect.

[@badvlad9861]

Great informative video, Shim removal tools: feeler gauge, compressed air, small explosive, large explosive. Works every time ?

[@mariuscaracateanu2869]

Hi Quinn, I'm watching your videos and this is the best one (in my humble opinion), lot of very useful info and the ToTOS gave me tears of laughter. Congratulations and keep them coming. Thanks for sharing.

[@kevincolwell9575]

This is a wonderful video. I am rehabbing an old Sheldon EXL P that was once an US Army lathe. Now, it is a Professor's Forge lathe ( :) ) . I am not a machinist at all yet. Not really. This is the most useful video I have ever found for this. I just wanted to thank you. Good channel. You are a good teacher, too.

[@daveys]

I saw this and decided that I needed a Starrett 86 level. I was right, I did need one. It is so beautifully made, a joy to look at and use!

[@roadshowautosports]

You mean starrett 98 model?

[@daveys]

@@roadshowautosports - Perhaps ;-)

[@RedDogForge]

Thank you so much for going into detail on calibrating the level, how to use it in conjuction with a surface plate etc... Im restoing a 1928 series O south bend 11" and this entire vid was invaluable to allieviating my crippling ignorance of this proceedure...quinn you are an absolute godsend!

[@weizheng7970]

Very useful tutorial. I just bought a second-hand 290 lathe a few days ago, and I am adjusting it according to your way.

[@taxicamel]

Nice video. I had to do this on my "toolroom" lathe, Harrison M250 many years ago. The machine was set on threaded rod grouted into cement floor. From the "relaxed" position, I was shocked at how much I had to twist the bed to get it aligned. Ever since, the machine has stayed within 0.0001". My cheap readout does not match this precision. It took a couple of days to get to this point ....with interruptions. But as a "hobby" lathe, I could just take my time.

[@jonsiegel2307]

You are the only one on KZbin who knows how to level a lathe and has shown the courage to go against the conventional wisdom that dictates using a precision level for this purpose. I have a Starrett precision level, but I would never use it on my lathe, only my pool table! Your method of testing the actual function of the lathe, and taking measurements of long chucked work is obviously the best way to install a lathe. Maybe the problem is that we should not call this process "leveling the lathe", we should call it "adjusting the twist". Then we would no longer be reaching for the wrong tool, the level.

[@noelhenderson700]

I just found a 10ths indicator on flea bay after years of searching. It came as part of a lot of tools which included a mag base and some random tool steel. It pays to be patient. I learned that from my dog.

[@4given-c5h]

Love your detailed explanations and humor! SO wish I had you as my shop teacher. 👍

[@DavoShed]

Nice to see a dead centre for a change. Believe it or not just the other day I was thinking there should be more between centres stuff on KZbin. Mainly because I need to do exactly this leveling operation on my ~80 year old lathe. Thanks for sharing. Not sure I’ll try the 6” stick out though. Might need to replace / adjust my head stock bearings first. :)

[@DavoShed]

An interesting chain of events got me started on my adjustment process. One of my V belts finally wore out To change it I have to remove the spindle So while I have the spindle out I may as well adjust the bearings. Now with the bearings a bit happier I have made some adjustable feet and have the machine nice and level. I have a nice hunk of about 1.5 inch bar sticking out of my chuck. My spindle is tiny at about 3/4” hole going through but that is how they made them back in ww2 days. I’ll use a steady to put my centre in the end. Thanks for inspiring me to get into this. That and thanks to my old v belt . Love the Chanel, keep it up. Dave

[@oldfarthacks]

Yep Davo, I know your problem. Mine started with I bought a Chinese mini lathe.

[@DavoShed]

@@oldfarthacks I know those mini lathes can be pretty average machines. Now that you have it take it as a challenge to make it work at its best and make some really nice parts anyway. I have spent as much on accessories as I did on the lathe originally 🤠. I bought a face plate and a milling attachment. My cross slide has worn in the middle of the stroke and is a bit sloppy now. I’ll make a video on re machining that when the time comes. My lathe features in a couple of my videos if you want to check it out.

[@johnspathonis1078]

Hi Quinn I really like your videos. I picked up your great tip for aligning the tool post with 1-2-3 block. Just a thought.........instead of parting the test bar off and machining between centers, just use your parting tool to reduce the diameter to around 12 mm. This creates an elastic hinge which takes out any errors of concentricity. Elastic hinges are used everywhere especially in metrology (and even bridge building).

[@thosoz3431]

Clever, thanks.

[@jimhumphrey]

I can see you becoming a youtube Icon. Keep up the good work!

[@BikeGremlinUS]

This is how I like things explained to me. Thank you for the wonderful educational videos. Appreciate all the effort you've put into making these. Relja

[@TheArozconpollo]

Is it assumed the headstock is parallel with the ways? What if the headstock axis is angle in any direction? Shimming the ways cannot fix that can it? How would that be checked and corrected? Great video, I learned a lot!

[@laurencestonard4593]

Once again, a very good video, and you mention old Tony! (Where I spend my time if I am not watching your Videos! ) nice to see you passing on your trade skills Thanks

[@colsanjaybajpai5747]

Beautiful demonstration by toothpicks. Great way of explaining.

[@cickavagefabricationllc8434]

Quick tip - To find out what neighborhood of shim to use under the lathe, place feelers underneath the precision level at approximately above the edges of feet of the lathe. Love the video.

[@forrestsecord7743]

Well done video, great, concise explanation of a tedious process, love the "Tony" reference - can't wait to do my lathe

[@PorchPotatoMike]

I was just thinking how much I wanted a new Blondihacks video!

[@lyndone.2682]

Once again, Excellent Video! I learn something EVERYTIME i watch one of your videos!

[@joycethomas8868]

I once asked an ex Navy machinist how they got machines “Leveled” on board......he laughed at me, So I guess square and perpendicular are more important than level.

[@Errol.C-nz]

Flat.. would be the word vs level

[@tommcelroy6975]

Yes level doesn't matter

[@nevetslleksah]

Nice and clear explanation on lathe alignment. Saving this video for future reference. Thanks for making the video. Happy Holidays.

[@PCFithian]

Thanks so much for posting these lathe videos.Your presentation and technical knowledge is the best I have seen for learning how to run one. I plan to use your techniques to set up and learn how to use a new Grizzly G4000 4x19 lathe

[@clayz1]

Nicely done Q. For the sake of any newbies to the sport of machine work, note that she’s using High Speed Steel tooling. This is not an accident. If you try taking ultra light cuts on the free end of the test bar with carbide tooling, even razor sharp ‘aluminum cutting’ inserts, it will probably talk back at you (chatter). Something to do with the way carbide interacts with steel, even if both tools are the same geometry. HSS is more forgiving.

[@bensmobilevideo4363]

Thanks for all your videos! I was just plowing through material and projects "farmer" style. Your videos have given me the ability and inspired me to set my equipment up right! Thanks again.

[@rufusleers]

I was fortunate to have bought a retired machinist tool boxes. I got a bunch of interapid and mitituyo indicators.

[@aledevans2446]

Awesome tutorial...Got my lathe accurate to 0.003 over 160mm. Gotta do tailstock next..

[@buenavida33]

Ounce you get the tail stock correctly aligned, what about to drill and tap the tail stock base and put some screws in order to get it in place and never lose the position?

[@my1956effie]

Lucky I came across this video as I am about to relocate my lathe and was unaware of what is involved. I was also about to donate a 12 inch level like the one you used to a local machine shop as I didn't know what it was for, I will keep it now. Thank you for showing this.

[@chrispoirier384]

Nice job explaining. Hitting the subscribe button was a must.

[@Blondihacks]

Thanks for the sub! 😁

[@Bob_Adkins]

Excellent! I wanted a precision Starrett level, but was not willing to pay over $100, so I made my own. I bought a precision glass vial for $14 and mounted it on a piece of 1x1x1/8x6" aluminum channel. After a lot of frustration and puzzling, I ended up using exactly the same calibration method as you, right down to the 1-2-3 block! It's still 1 of my favorite tools.

[@chandrahasan3225]

Happy new year 🎊 @Blondihacks

[@stanstevens3783]

Hi Quinn, a lovely demonstration with the toothpick model. I have some comments about the tail stock alignment- you measured the tail stock end of the bar as smaller than the headstock end, then stated that it was larger. Then proceeded to move the tail stock away which I understand which is the correct way if the tail stock end is too small (as is described in taper turning, with the “thin end” produced by having the tail stock towards the operator). I think that when you measured with the indicator that you moved the tail stock towards you, with a half thou increase on the dial. The correct movement away from the operator produced a decrease in the indicator reading. The test bar in the chuck measures the headstock alignment and the lathe bed “twist” can correct somewhat for this. I’m just a hobbiest so don’t bite my head off if I’m wrong, I’m also trying to get my head around this. Merry Christmas from Australia!

[@tnekkc]

Is this the BEST home machinist video I have ever seen? or did it just make me feel GUILTY about my 11 years of owning a PM1236 and having never aligned it?

[@SorryMcMorrow]

Thank you. I am preparing to overhaul a Chinese lathe/mill combination from the late 1980s and this will help a lot.

[@Gronicle1]

Nice video. You covered a couple of things in the process were not covered when I was in school decades ago. Don't forget to do a video on how you "proved" your 1.2.3 blocks. With all the imports staggering around toolboxes I bet a lot of people would like to see that process also.. And tell them how to pick blocks where the holes are laid out to work right.

[@kylemichael2175]

Well done Quinn. Always enjoy your videos! I have an Enco 12x36 geared head lathe model 110-2075 and I am having a heck of a time getting the headstock aligned to the ways. The lathe is perfectly level or no twist in the ways, I can turn a test bar and get .003” taper in 6” smaller at the chuck end. I loosened up all the bolts that hold the headstock to the main casting and loosened the adjustment screws just to get all of the stress out of it. The closest I can get it is about .0015” over 6”, and when I do get it that close it only takes one heavy cut to throw it back out again. I aligned the tailstock with a coaxial indicator in the 4 jaw and swept the ID of the tailstock spindle and it’s within .0005”. Driving me nuts why I can’t get a good straight cut on this machine. It hardly has any wear

[@Blondihacks]

If a heavy cut is causing the headstock to shift, something is very wrong. How heavy of a cut are we talking about? Maybe the machine isn’t rigid enough to do what you’re asking. I would also check the chuck, centers, tailstock height, and spindle bearings. If you can’t get it aligned within a couple of tenths, keep working on why. You won’t get good cuts until the machine is aligned well and stays that way.

[@rafileigh]

Fantastic video. Helped me align my EMCO Unimat 3 vintage lathe. THANK YOU Quinn!