How to Apply Plaster: Scratch Coat and Tools

[@moorelandhouse]

We are looking forward to our plaster work. We obviously watch the same KZbinrs. =) Since we will be using lime plaster, our cure time will be a lot longer. We are really looking forward to your lime wash videos and how to work the pigments. By the time we get done with all 10,000 square feet, we will be very good at it as well.

[@craftsmanshomesllc8219]

I considered lime plastering , but I have so much to do and the cost was four time more. I was trying to stay true to the house and keeping it as original as possible , however at some point you have to draw a line. The property we have is not in affluent area and we would not have a return for the cost. The house is not in the historic register, although we have made several attempts to do so, but it is “to common” of a house so that is another factor not to use lime plaster.

[@moorelandhouse]

@@craftsmanshomesllc8219 We totally understand all of that. Our plaster is already lime plaster so we would have to tear down all the old stuff if we wanted to use regular plaster. We are hoping to save time and money by using lime plaster. Trying to get Structolite in Kentucky is also a problem. Not too many people doing any plastering these days.

[@craftsmanshomesllc8219]

Actually, I get Structolite from Lowe’s, I have to order a pallet at a time (40 bags) then I use Imperial as a base coat and Diamond as the veneer coat. All are USG products. The imperial I get from Ace Hardware and the Diamond from a Richmond supplier.

[@craftsmanshomesllc8219]

Would enjoy an invite to work a few days with you on the lime plaster , just let me know.

[@moorelandhouse]

@@craftsmanshomesllc8219 We have two different kinds. We have made some "lime putty" out of hydrated lime that has been cooking for over a year. We also have the quicklime that we use to make hot lime. We will experiment with both to see which we like better. It is going to be an interesting project once we get the Mooreland House closed in and weather tight. That might take years though. =)

[@ernieforrest7218]

Not all of the trowles and hawks are intended for plastering. Brick pointers for example have no need for a large hawk holding lots of mortar. As for applying plaster on wood lath, or wire lath. Best to apply a coat just to fill the spaces and then move on to other areas. Then after the mortar tightens up apply a second coat. On wire lath its best to let the first coat harden since the lath itself is flexible. I started working at plastering in the early 50s. At that time, wood lath hadnt been being used for approximately 20 years. A gypsum product called (rocklath ) which is similar to sheetrock was being used and still is when the old 2 coat system is being used. That being a brown coat with a gypsum based product, followed up after drying with a lime based white coat trowled to a smooth finish. Today however large sheets of drywall with a different covering and called ( blue board ) is applied and then covered with a single finish coat much like the old white coat was. The very large trowles with the rounded corners are not actually plastering trowles, although some are using them for that purpose. They were originally known as pool finishing trowles. There are also long trowles with conventional square corners intended for concrete finishing. I used to have one that i used as a darby for working in closets. But i never used it for applying mortar on a wall. Does a 14” or a 16” hawk being used with a longer trowel make any sense? It would have been better to cover that old wood lath with wire lath before applying the plaster. As you mentioned, you can add a small amount of portland cement as an excellerator, which will allow for applying a second coat on the same day.

[@craftsmanshomesllc8219]

Great info from someone that has more experience than myself. Thanks for watching and being helpful to us all.