How to Assemble a Belt Grinder Contact Wheel

In this video knife maker Walter Sorrells shows the mounting of a 12" contact wheel on his Bader BIII grinder. Here Walter fabricates a shaft for the contact wheel and then assembles it on a replaceable attachment arm. Many 2 X 72 inch grinders have similar set-ups for replaceable attachments as the Bader.
More at:
Sword making videos: www.waltersorrellsblades.com
Tactix Armory: www.tactixarmory.com
Walter's Instagram: walterstactix
Tactix Armory Instagram: tactixarmory
Twitter: @WalterSorrells
Facebook: / waltersorrellsblades
Patreon: / waltersorrells

[@Robert-ko6wr]

Aren't you Mr. comedian today. Your comments made me smile. 30 seconds of assembly was exhausting indeed! Really want to see the fabrication of the end cap though. Nice DIY build. Thank you for sharing. Cheers!

[@gushlergushler]

I feel like ever time I face a problem in the shop you come around the corner with just the video I need. Fantastic!

[@petersze7127]

Thank you for sharing usefull info, In a straightforward manner..i learn alot from your videos..

[@michaelpowell2902]

I have had a contact wheel sitting next to my grinder for six months, guess its time to put it together

[@AlbiesProductsOnline]

You should do left hand thread so if the bearing does rub the washer it won’t unscrew the bolt and become a permanent fixture to your face

[@RAkers-tu1ey]

Too much machine shop work for me, but you are always enjoyable to listen to. And those details like "blue chip" indicator, and mic v caliper are good review tips for me. Thanks.

[@mitchelperkins6723]

That's a great deal on those large wheels. I just ordered a 10" wheel from them. Nice planning on this setup. I'm fortunate to have a lathe, and a buddy 1 mile away with a nice vertical mill. Keep the videos coming Walter!!

[@jackdawg4579]

I have rarely put my flat platten back on since I got my 12 inch wheel! It rocks!

[@davidscadlock5569]

Thanks Walter - Great info as usual. I'm working on an homebuilt unit and caught a few things that will be useful.

[@mftmachining]

Using a top quality 3-piece tap will reduce the risk of breakage to nearly zero. I always use them when it comes to tool-steel and so with no broken tap in over 40 years.

[@NRiggiKnives]

Timely since I have a 10 inch wheel coming!

[@graffiti73]

Very cool

[@simguns8388]

Nice video! I find it easier to "hand tap" a rod on the lathe. Same as you did on the mill except the lathe tail stock holds the tap centered to the hole. Less chance of breakage.

[@larrybair8074]

Super.

[@e.t.preppin7084]

Inventing an unbreakable tap and then riding around in a limo. I love the beginning of that statement but I would spend the rest of my life on the beach of my island fishing rather than riding in a limo. Hey that’s just me. I would probably make knives I needed by hand with limited or no power tools. Haha. Someone wake me up!!!

[@Capthrax1]

i made a comment earlier, but had a after though. be sure that the direction of rotation in effect tightens the screw. In this set up a set screw (RH) going in on the right side with the belt going top to down (CCW) if the bearing fails (only shielded and not sealed bearings in this video, something that may have been worth changing before installation as belt grinders are basically dust makers). the failed bearing can unscrew the set screw in a fraction of a second and while i dont think the wheel would pop off, the flying set screw might hit ur face or something. lot of knife makers tend to stand off center to avoid the need to use safety glasses. just some 2 cents

[@peltiereric6497]

Just curious why you chose to tap it in the Mill instead of in the lathe using the tailstock to hold the tap and manually spinning the lathe chuck with your hands to tap it

[@jonenglish6617]

Walter, go to plus .010 what the chart says for the tap drill size. your tapping issues will evaporate.

[@scott1506]

walter how long have you had that shirt for?

[@le6tat]

Is there a spacer between the two bearings? what stops the bearings from sliding in and out? Sorry to comment on an old video.

[@Capthrax1]

I would not recommend threaded rod. When I rebuilt my grinder after about 2 years, my idler wheels had lost almost 40 thou because the bearing crush/wore down the threads, this also causes tracking issues, though not as bad on the tracking wheel as the idlers. I also had a 4 or 5 inch soft wheel that had been quite askew because of threads wearing down. I'd also recommend a spacer between the bearings so that you can tighten it quite well without putting axial pressure on radial bearings. Alot of the cheaper wheels tend to be missing it

[@murphymmc]

Unbreakable tap.... I'll be free to carry your bags. :-)

[@willykanos1044]

I'm curious. It looks like you are using cheap Harbor Freight acid brushes to apply cutting oil. The one in the video seems to have plastic bristles and is overdue for replacement. Is there a reason you prefer acid brushes? I would think HF's one inch chip brushes would do a better job - and you can buy them in a boc of 24 or 36 for next to nothing when on sale.

[@mwechtal]

It's pretty universal. Watch any KZbin machist video. If they aren't using flood or mist cooling you'll see acid brushes in use for applying oil. A 1" brush would throw WAY too much oil on the part.

[@killerMILLER117]

I know you're a really smart and skilled guy but multiple times, you called a bolt a nut. Is that how you always refer to them? Do you call a nut a bolt?

[@wingnutbert9685]

20 Bucks that nut and washer are still there in a couple years....... XD

[@e.t.preppin7084]

Btw I might as well claim first too. Haha 😂

[@isaacvoeller3208]

First

[@barthooghwerff1682]

first?

[@vladimirpoutine4140]

Who cares. It's a non-accomplishment. Go do something productive.

[@barthooghwerff1682]

@@vladimirpoutine4140 Nah its Beer o'clock here man