How to Belay From Above with a Grigri

[@cyberflaneur9127]

How important is it for my grigri to match my jumper ?

[@europeancoalandsteelcommunity]

Safety critical.

[@heatheraleksa4761]

What is the name and brand of the locker you redirected the rope through?

[@pinkpanter9999]

That's a Petzl Freino. Also good for lowering heavier persons. quite expensive though...

[@drqazlop]

Ya this was basically a commercial. You can also redirect with an additional biner

[@space9277]

@@pinkpanter9999Jason from SSE here on youtube has a video showing an alternate method to belay with the grigri if you don’t have the special carabiner kzbin.infohxKyZ4Bbwys

[@eyescreamcake]

Show us how to do the 3:1 boost!

[@kingcookie3920]

m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKjJqqCmgLamga8 1. Make a safety knot like in 0:40 (I prefere the one in the link) 2. Make a prusik knot with a carabiner around the climbers rope. Feed the other rope (the one not under pressure) through the carabiner 3. Undo the safety knot

[@kingcookie3920]

But please try it at home before using it. I'm not a professional. I'm just a random internet dude. Btw: I tried it at home and for me it was impossible to lift a person. In theory a 3:1 boost might work, but in reality the rope, grigri and carabiners absorb to much energy.

[@tm-worldwide]

Another random internet dude so do test before you give it a go but 3:1 doesn't allow you to full on pull someone up. For a cheeky 6:1 you can make the rope safe as suggested. Lower them the non pressured rope and get them to bang it through a carabiner. Set up a Microtraxion (could use a pulley in this case as you're using a grigri) on a carabiner on your anchor. Pass the rope through that and then complete the actions described by King Cookie but put the prusik on the new loop of rope coming up from the climber to your carabiner. It's a pricey but of kit but essentially, if the rope is long enough, means a kid could haul and adult up a route :D

[@eyescreamcake]

Isn't it unsafe to have the brake strand parallel to the climber strand? If you're belaying from below and had your brake hand up in the air like that, it is less likely to actually brake.

[@ZerolinGD]

Nope. For some reason people think this about the grigri and get upset when people belay with their hand above the device. But with the way the grigri works, it’s able to brake whether or not you have the brake strand above or below the device.

[@eyescreamcake]

@@ZerolinGD Actually Petzl says it's not recommended and that you should belay from your harness through a redirect. I have a Mad Rock Lifeguard and it locks up even less easily than GriGri, so I would not use it in this configuration at all.

[@BenedictTanShanWen]

Petzl recommends the redirect and not to belay from the anchor with this method.

[@JoshSteadman]

You are correct. www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-a-second-directly-off-a-fixed-anchor-at-the-belay-station?ProductName=GRIGRI-PLUS&Familly=Belay-devices-and-descenders

[@ZerolinGD]

This is not true, stop spreading misinformation

[@jodelboy]

Redirecting the rope through some point above the GriGri is not mandatory, with a GriGri it doesn't matter where the brake strand runs (unless it's blocking the cam, then it does matter ;D). Redirect is just for friction reasons - Smoother lowering, especially with heavier people. What they didn't mention in this video that you always have to make sure you think ahead and hang the GriGri in a way, where you still can manipulate the lowering-handle. Also, as you have to completely take off the GriGri from the biner to put in the rope, it's way more prone to get it dropped than say an ATC or a Megajul - There's a keeper-cord mod though which eliviates this risk.

[@JoshSteadman]

According to Petzl, lowering should be done the way the video describes. Also, they do not recommend belaying directly from the anchors with a GriGri. Sure, it's possible, just not recommended by them. www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Lowering-from-a-fixed-anchor-point?ProductName=GRIGRI-PLUS&Familly=Belay-devices-and-descenders

[@TarongaSydney]

@@JoshSteadman Say your were belaying straight from the anchor, the way that Petzl does not recommend - if you were to redirect the rope through to another carabiner (or to the Freino's friction spur) exactly the way she is lowering, that would put the rope in a more ideal breaking plane. Surely that would be safe when belaying right?

[@ZerolinGD]

@@TarongaSydneyi really don’t know what you’re talking about, petzl literally shows belaying directly off the anchor on their website

[@OffBelay_]

That looks like Red Rocks, NV

[@CzujnyJakZuraw]

Why is this method promoted as acceptable at all (also by Petzl)? In the worst possible scenario when: 1) gri-gri fails to autoblock 2) heavy climber 3) slack not pulled in fast enough I can't imagine there is enough friction on the device in this position to stop the fall reliably. Or am I missing something?

[@schneblymagee400]

I have often guided and prefer this method. It catches the climber without slamming you into the wall/anchor just fine with a range of 100-300 lbs in my experience. Also being out of the system drastically reduces the time it takes me to help my climber if they are hurt or scared. Ive never had an issue.

[@cyalata11]

Gri Gri's don't really fail in my experience. I dont work in ice or snow but have literally retired about 30 gri gri's from use and they have never failed during lead falls for me. I retire them only due to visible wear and tear. Big climber falling on lead, no problem.

[@ZerolinGD]

Yes, you’re missing that you don’t need friction like you do with an ATC. That’s not how the device works. As long as the cam can move freely, snd as long as you have your hand on the brake strand it will lock.

[@CzujnyJakZuraw]

@@ZerolinGD Please take a look at 1) again.

[@ZerolinGD]

@@CzujnyJakZuraw the grigri will not fail to "autoblock" if you have your hand on the brake strand pulling down

[@bboyorc]

you are simply creating more rope drag by attaching your gri gri to another brake assist on the lowering of climber it sounds way too slow i am not a fan of this method 1:22 but attaching an emergency knot to the break line does sound useful in case climber needs a break at bottom

[@anthonycheffings9462]

I believe Petzl does not recommend this method.

[@pinkpanter9999]

Petzl describes this method as possible, but not ideal. They recommend attaching the Grigri to the harness and redirecting the rope through a quickdraw attached to the anchor

[@jodelboy]

Doesn't mean you can't do it. GriGri+ with it's "toprope" mode is golden to belay from above. I modified mine with a "keeper cord" so if I'd accidentally drop it while putting the rope in (whilst standing on a belay station waaaay off the ground) it wouldn't drop far.

[@judaspriestrock]

@@pinkpanter9999 why is it necessary to have an atc guide or similar auto locking atc attached to the anchor and not a gri gri? I get that if the climber falls the belayer can yanked a bit. but why not a gri gri?

[@kaiser00hans]

you CANNOT have the grigri's cam mechanism side facing the wall or any obstructions as they have it in this video. Literally the only thing you cannot do when belaying a second with a grigri and they have managed to do it in this 'guiding' video. AMGA qualifications are worth nothing.

[@justinbruno1873]

The grigri is hanging in free space and not contacting the wall at all. The cam mechanism is facing out, away from the rock. They literally address this issue in the video.

[@kaiser00hans]

​@@justinbruno1873 kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJDJZ2SsiqqLitE Except that it is a slab route and the second approaches from the right. If the second were to have fallen she would have pinned the grigri against the wall with the camming mechanism potentially blocked. All she had to do was clip in the grigri the other way and it would have been fine. AMGA guides just don't know what they are talking about.

[@evanl5299]

@@kaiser00hans It sounds like you're just searching for something to be angry about. @1:22 you can see the load is equalized when the climber is being lowered. In this state, the Gri Gri is well away from the rock.

[@kaiser00hans]

@@evanl5299 sounds like you have no clue what you're talking about. Maybe you should teach for the amga

[@kaiser00hans]

@@evanl5299 you can't even write a coherent sentence. Please refrain from trying to troll people you simple fool.

[@colasdavid953]

How to Belay From Above with a Grigri = Don't use a Grigri to belay from above.