Setting up a multi-pitch rappel

[@devonbailiff]

I’ve watched this at least 10 times. Keep up the great work!

[@DrRobert.E]

This was a really great instructional video. Nice work!

[@krysobrzut3669]

Excellent cadence and video,

[@stefanofalero]

why do u choose a quad over clipping in directly to the chains?

[@skillsforclimbing]

This is a great question @stefanofalero! Here in the US we have a problem with old, rotten bolts- even at the top of popular climbs in places like Yosemite. As a result it is not generally recommended to clip into a single bolt as an anchor, and instead we clip into both in case one were to fail. We also frequently use rappel anchors that have a hanger and a single rappel ring. If all climbers clip into both rappel rings (or worse- into the hangers) so there is redundancy, there is little room left over to thread the rope through the rings. An additional problem is that the carabiners that attach into the rings or hangers can become pinched and levered, which increases the likelihood that they break. The levered spine of a carabiner can be broken under body-weight, for example. To solve these problems a quad anchor is added so only one carabiner needs to be attached to each of the two hangers, chains, or rings (the two carabiners belonging to the quad) and all climbers can then clip into the two shelves of the quad so there is plenty of space and no chance of pinching etc. If you've ever found the carabiners from your personal anchor/daisy/slings that you are anchored to the wall with getting pinched, jammed, or cluttering up the rappel chains then you'll know what I mean. This becomes especially problematic as a party of three, or when you are sharing a rappel anchor with another party.

[@reksaiorn-od7vj]

Hi awesome video. One big question is what can I do if the rope gets stuck with something for example a tree branch after I finished rappelling when I’m pulling the rope . Or if I forgot to take the knot out. What are my options there ? Thanks for the video very informative

[@skillsforclimbing]

Thanks for your question @reksaiorn-od7vj! There are several options in the event your rope gets stuck above you when you pull it. The most common solution is to lead up the pitch to the point where your rope is stuck so you can free it. This is only recommended if the climbing is well within your limit, there is sufficient protection available, and the amount of rope you have already pulled back down to the belay is enough to use as a lead rope to get back up (you will tie into the end you have at the belay). If the climbing is above your limit, there is limited protection, or the rope is stuck really far up then it's usually best to wait for another party coming down the route to help free your rope. If that's not an option, then borrowing a rope from another party in the area or grabbing another rope from the car (assuming it's a short approach) could allow you to climb back up the route and then re-rap it to retrieve your rope. And if all else fails, use whatever rope you have at the belay to get down to the ground. This may involve cutting the rope and using a shorter piece of it for your rappels. One of my videos titled "how to rappel 35m with a 60m rope" can give you insight in how to get the most out of a shorter piece of rope if you ever do find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to cut a rope and descend. NOTE: If you lead back up the rappel route, there are three options for getting back down after you retrieve the stuck end of your rope. Option 1: Leave gear or cord just below where your rope was stuck, and rap off this. This is often the fastest and safest because you ensure that the rope will not go over that same terrain again. Option 2: Down lead. This is usually only a good idea if the rope was stuck not too far above the belay, the climbing is easy for you, and you were able to place a significant amount of protection to protect you as you down-lead. Option 3: When you reach the stuck rope, free it and throw the end back down to the belay. Then continue to lead all the way up to the anchor that you rapped off of, and rap off of it again but do a better job of managing the rope for the pull. This is usually best done in easy terrain where the climbing goes quickly and you are sure you aren't getting in over your head with the difficulty. I would NOT recommend ascending your rope, as you don't know what the rope is stuck on, and it could pop free at any time and send you ground-ward. It's sometimes worthwhile to set up a mechanical advantage system to try to pull the rope free, though in my experience this seldom works, can be time consuming, and often damages the rope or gets it stuck so bad that it's even harder to get out of the crack if you are able to get back up there. And watch out! If you do manage to free the rope by pulling hard, rocks can come down along with the now free rope end. Let me know if that helped!

[@northernlights1260]

That’s nice rope, anyone know what it is?

[@Pyamasrock]

I always understood not to clip in to the links of the chain?

[@skillsforclimbing]

The chain is no problem to clip into as long as its integrity is not in question (worn through or extremely corroded). Even some rust on the outside of the chain is generally not a problem. The weakest chain used in bolted anchors is usually 5/16" or 3/8" grade 30. Stronger chain is grade 43 and grade 70. 5/16'' grade 30 chain (the weakest stuff) has a Working Load Limit (WLL) of 1900 lbs. This is a breaking strength of 7,600lbs, or 33.8 kN. 3/8" grade 30 chain usually has a WLL of 2350 lbs, which is a breaking strength of 9400 lbs or 41.8 kN. In other words, the chain is much stronger than other components of your climbing anchor such as slings and carabiners.

[@eloimauri6235]

How thick is the cord for the prussik knot? I use 5mm but yours seems much thicker!

[@raphaeldechassy1506]

Hi! Great video and comment. Question - Where can i buy a cord for a friction hitch?

[@raphaeldechassy1506]

@@skillsforclimbing wow thanks for the quick reply!

[@raphaeldechassy1506]

@@skillsforclimbing I feel like the 1ft length is too short for a friction hitch however, what length would you recommend?

[@raphaeldechassy1506]

@@skillsforclimbing okay great thank you so much! That explanation helped a ton!

[@floyd5567]

Ed's Jam.

[@bboudreau5]

In this scenario does your partner have their own quad anchor?

[@forresthsu582]

It's not necessary with a prerigged rappel, as they would have switched over to the rappel lines, letting you clean the anchor while they're still up there.

[@krysobrzut3669]

technical backup overhand knot (bhk), fact.