How to bleed air out of cooling system on a Pontiac Montana, GM 3.4L

Hey guys, This was just a quick video one day when i had air in the coolant on my old van. Hope the video helps. I see lots of people have different opinions on how to bleed it but this way you loose a little coolant but it worked great. I will reply to Serious comments, no trashing please, Message me on youtube if you have something you don't like. Thanks Schneids15

[@sonny2435]

GOTTA LOVE WINTER REPAIRS- makes the hot chocolate & Jack D go down smooth ::

[@mightymight4348]

I been noticing my resavot been loosn fluid. Nt sure y chked holses an all. Bt gna change antifreeze an bleed after?

[@GaryArbaugh]

Thanks You! I really needed this information! And you braved the snow to do it too..

[@Schneids15]

+Gary Arbaugh no problem. I did brave the snow. It is chilly when a bubble would hit the heater core and you had no heat. Lol This was made years ago due to the crappy video quality i apologize.

[@caucajunman5930]

Just a suggestion! From experience, it is a good idea to let your viewers to know to never add coolant/water to a engine that is hot while not running. If the thermostat is in the open position the cooler coolant with go straight to the block and heads possibly causing cracking. Also some vans have rear heating. Be sure to turn on front and rear heating on full hot high fans.

[@Schneids15]

Great tips for sure. That would have to be some extra cold water to cause cracking though. It would mix in enough with the other hot coolant and be not much of a shock in my opinion. All great tips. Thanks!

[@evaman1000]

My 3400 only has the one bleeder valve along the rail over by the water pump. Does it work the same way for just the one bleeder?

[@ronmitchell8929]

Those bolts if corroded will break every time. They are readily available at all the big auto parts stores for a few bucks.

[@adamwilliams3960]

Would this cause the motor to run hot and upper hose hot, bottom hose was cool along with rad cap?

[@Schneids15]

Could be. If the water pump has an air pocket it won’t circulate proper.

[@p.g.8138]

I only had to refill it twice after getting it up to operating temp. I checked it a third time and the overflow and radiator where full. Yes it is easy to jump the gun and assume the heads or intake are leaking. I actually was thinking that at first too. I don't think people realize how much air gets trapped on these engines. I do think it is better to do what the service manual tells you. If I would have followed the directions on how to fill the radiator per the service manual to begin with, I would have never got so much air in the system. One thing it tells you to do is to plug the heater hoses when you take them off, this prevents more air going into the system. I don't agree with the people saying flushing it gets all the air out either. I think flushing it sometimes may cause more air in system.

[@Schneids15]

Yes that is true. Glad we came to a conclusion😃. My heater core was actually plugged in mine when i got it. I had to pressurize it each way with a garden hose and it eventually unplugged it. Thankfully i never had to pull it as i hear that is a bear of a job. I had good success on bleeding when i parked uphill with that rad cap off. Seemed to really help when i had it parked. Anyways glad we are off on the right step. Let me know if you get all that air out. I know they say to make sure your rear heat is on also.

[@p.g.8138]

Actually never though of the rear heat, I bet that is where most of the air was. I think I got all the air out because, I checked the rariator and It was full. As far as doing the heater core it is very easy. I used a service manual and it made it way easier. The hard part was getting the air out afterwards because, I ignored the directions on the service manual. If you do one you have to plug the heater hoses or you will get a ton of air in the system. You have to open the bleeders while filling the radiator and then let it warm up and then after it cools of check it and fill it. Then you have to keep checking the level for at least a couple of days after getting it up to operating temp and then letting it cool off. Also never leave the cap open while it is running, a great way to make it overheat is leaving the cap off.

[@crankbaitinchad1729]

So you should have the heat on while you’re bleeding the air? My van is overheating. It’s not leaking.

[@Schneids15]

@crankbaitinchad1729 correct heat should be on.

[@bananapie2198]

Mine won't bleed for anything. Just spits out steam. I keep trying to backfill the system too. I hate this van.

[@jrayburn6169]

mine is doing the same, im replacing the thermostat today have you done that yet?

[@bananapie2198]

@@jrayburn6169 a while back...couldnt hurt to do it again.

[@jrayburn6169]

@@bananapie2198 Just got done replacing mine today was about a 3 hour job and pain in the ass but it worked thankfully, I’d give it another try

[@bananapie2198]

@@jrayburn6169 sweet thank you for reporting back!

[@jrayburn6169]

@@bananapie2198 no problem best of luck to you

[@handymannlocksmith]

08.27.2019 ( do you need to bleed air every time you take the radiator cap off to check water are antifreeze level

[@Schneids15]

Hey Jake, no you don’t have to.

[@christophermoody6840]

Ive got the samw engine but in a different car... a 2004 pontiac grand am. The design is a little different and I cant find the driver side bleeder valve... it must be located in a different location because I cant find it at the end of that hose But the passenger side bleeder value is in the same spot as yours and I did the same thing to mine as you did to yours I broke off the 7mm brass screw and can only open it up using the 10 mm. Do I need to bleed both or can I get by just doing the one I can find?

[@Schneids15]

Most likely you would be fine with the one. Just drive and you may have some temp spikes that will work themselves out.

[@porkchop1343]

Check inside the trunk. That is where mines was

[@netosalazarg]

We have to do it with the engine hot or can be done with cold engine?

[@Schneids15]

Either or. It will get warm running but will not matter. hope this helps!

[@SasukeGarage55]

I have question I wash your video,,, what if my does not do date??? I have a 2005 chevrolet uplander 3.5 v6 let me know

[@Schneids15]

It will most likely be different then.

[@SasukeGarage55]

Schneids15 Ohhhh ok

[@johnsmith-xw4ez]

3,350 cc V6.

[@lwh7301]

This is the epitome of a low quality video.

[@tsfyootwiin]

I was told that not to bleed the one by the water pump 💁🏾‍♂️

[@Schneids15]

Could be? This is what i did and it worked great and really got a lot of air out 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@tsfyootwiin]

Schneids15 Will this work if I only have just the overflow tank? I believe I have a closed system I don’t have a radiator cap

[@Schneids15]

Can’t see why not. If air is coming out it is working.

[@tsfyootwiin]

Schneids15 Yes, closed system. If no radiator cap. Overflow would be the best bet, I bleed air from the one by water as well and got the air out. Now I’m trying to figure why my fans kick on only when ac is turned on 🧐🤷🏾‍♂️

[@markolsen7010]

Get rid of it scrap it i went through radiator fans new bleed valves new hoses new fans flushed system when everything replaced still broken down get rid of that piece of shit 2000 later at least worth 200 buck's scrap thats it

[@markolsen7010]

Tried that dont work new radiator new fans new hoses piece of shit never own one three thermostats went bad junk it

[@Schneids15]

Head gasket, intake gasket replaced?

[@hugh3rdof5]

Sorry this is far, far too simplistic, given the chronic severe problems of air pockets getting trapped in multiple locations on the extremely badly designed cooling system on these miserable Montana/Venture models. Sure, using the bleeder valves, as per the lame standard GM guidance, will get out some of the trapped air. But rarely will you get all of it out. (given the fact that the bleeder valves are located BELOW where much of the air will get trapped -- in the engine, and worst of all, in the extended heater system) Guessing you've not yet tried to flush your entire Montana cooling system. (Once you do that, you'll discover the nightmare that most of us endure -- and that you gloss over)

[@Schneids15]

+hugh3rdof5 always worked well for me. I would bleed and drive then bleed again if i had a temp spike. Almost 95% of time air at the water pump end bleeder. Worked great. I flushed everything twice in that van when i had it and never had an issue this way. I am aware of the extended system but that was always lower when i flushed and never had issues with that. Thanks for the tips.

[@p.g.8138]

Are you saying flushing the cooling system will get all the air out? The dealer claims flushing will get all the air out and I'm not sure I believe them.

[@NetSloff]

Hi. Can you tell me how did you figure out with that, please?

[@bananapie2198]

Did you ever make any progress on yours? I had to flush mine because the Dextron turned to clay in the entire engine. But now I can't get the dang thing to bleed no matter what I do. Any fluid in the system just turns to steam. I tried backfilling the motor and pumping it with a hose. Ugh.

[@jasonnickles1590]

@@bananapie2198 how did that work for you? My wife and I are getting ready to coolant flush our 03 venture same engine. Changing the sparks was a nightmare lol

[@william629]

Does it matter which valve you open or close first? Does the order matter?

[@Schneids15]

No the highest would be best last but it really will not matter.