How To Break In a New Engine.

[@emanuelparedes9187]

Idk how to break in a new engine but i do know how to break a new engine

[@Smeedia]

💀💀💀

[@man.and.machines]

Top comment

[@emanuelparedes9187]

@@man.and.machines what an honor

[@deadghost50ify]

Fucking comedy gold

[@IgnantRacing]

I feel you on that one🤣

[@MikeG4936]

This is the best break-in video I've ever seen. Straight up FACTS from a guy who has actually put an engine together. Unfortunately, the VAST majority of people will incorrectly think they're still "breaking in" after 100 miles.

[@Smeedia]

All down hill for an engine after its been "broken in" might as well start enjoying it as soon as it's ready 💪

[@zachscott4867]

Just did this one on a new EJ255. Changed the oil a couple extra times and it looks good and she rips! I’m enjoying giving it a workout.💪🏼

[@minusthemachineagain9342]

I agree this is one of the best informative videos on KZbin without listening to hours of classroom lectures.

[@Tenacious_Schemer]

Got a 2024 crosstrek sport and I’m at 600 miles on the dot. Trying to think of how I was driving up until 150 miles on the dash 😂😅 I think I’m good, only a 2 hour drive going 75 on the freeway from the lot to my house was the hardest I’ve drove it

[@holupwedemboyz6277]

My tuner told me I was pretty much broke in after they dyno tuned it. Engine breaking creates vacuum and makes the piston rings expand which properly mates them to the cylinder wall. Swapped my break in oil after 100 miles. Then changed it again before 500 miles. Working so far

[@Smeedia]

Soild break in it sounds like 💪

[@MrGsxr10001]

Dam! that motor makes enuff vacuum to bend steel? Dam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@kewinrebel]

Iam a mechanical engineer 13 years exp. and was a mechanic for 5 years AND this is the best video on the web about this topic !! 👍👍👍👍👍🇸🇰🇸🇰

[@kenwilson6850]

You're hljbqt gay.

[@MrGsxr10001]

And can't spell.............

[@ThuderDuck]

@@MrGsxr10001think the flags might suggest English isn’t his first language. How many do you speak?

[@cughan_9482]

Heat cycles are also very important too! Need to get it up to operating temp🔥

[@Smeedia]

Heat cycles aren't really going to do much with Cars, bikes and some other applications probably. But you'll naturally do thrm over time from driving 🙏

[@bradgreen987]

Goog ole boys here swear it takes 2,000 miles to break an engine in. Always thought that was rediculous, especially with modern oils. Good teaching moment. Thx

[@Smeedia]

Anytime my friend 🥳🔥

[@_GoGo_]

Always so informative and well organized! This channel is definitely top five Subaru channels imo! Keep grinding gang!

[@Smeedia]

❤️❤️❤️

[@delaney4708]

You're like my personal virtual tutor tbh I was stil stuck with the knowledge that engine braking is 300-500 miles. Well you learn things every day thank you bro

[@TerryManitoba]

Just broke in my GR Corolla (now 1k miles) Keep in mind -you are also breaking in the whole drive train (& brakes et al ) For the most part my list of things to do is very close to yours & what I have done going on at least 15 new vehicles. This is my short & dirty list for first 600 ish miles (& oil change) - I don't idle the engine to warm up - I drive very slow out of my residential area - no short trips or long trips (35 to 80 miles) - let engine get DEAD cold before next driving event - MPT - don't drive during rush hour - for one so as not to idle or abuse the clutch - step up engine RPM when accelerating. (in 1st gear - 1800 hold 15 sec 2000 for 15 sec 2200 for 15 sec 2500 for 15 sec - let car engine brake to 1800 & repeat in all gears) To not be the A-hole on the road I do this part of the break in at 5 am!!! -the controversial part - but it's what I do. 50-75% Wide Open Throttle a few times each session (starting at 3k RPM) Allow vehicle engine brake to 1800 rpm and hold for a bit oil up the cylinders (helps seat the rings) & cool down a bit.

[@BrodeyDoverosx]

Motor Oil Geek has better info regarding the oil and ring seating. But it is extremely refreshing to hear real, actual advice on KZbin. If anyone followed this advice, they’d be set up for success.

[@josefmistal2698]

Thank you for all the video's. Waiting on my IAG 900 to come in. Spun a bearing in my stock STI

[@Smeedia]

Ooooffff hopefully won't be too long before the new engine comes 🤞

[@lemonsgarage4619]

Exactly what I needed, my engine is almost done getting bored/honed so I should be assembling soon! Thanks for the tips

[@Smeedia]

Anytime 🥳🔥 Happy building!

[@markusdemain11]

YES. The video I've been waiting for! Lol many thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject! * so now you talked about the seating of the piston rings , and you explained that the process of the rings getting seated happens rather fast..And that your method of getting them seated involved driving the car at various RPMs while inducing vaccum. You advised against letting the car run at idle speeds on the first start up, and that's where I'm lost... So ... After the fuel pump and oil pump are primed, how do you burp the coolant system without having the car sit at idle for an extended period of time? The last time I burped my coolant it took A WHILE. How did you get around this?

[@Smeedia]

That's totally fine, what I don't suggest is just leaving it to idle for long periods of time 🙏 Burping and all that jazz is good 🙏

[@tpumpiscmibicv]

you have the best sounding Subaru I’ve ever heard. Nice build and good video

[@ModdedRex]

My longblock will be here any day perfect timing love your videos bro helped me with a lot of stuff pulling motor tear downs etc

[@Smeedia]

Eyyyyy, perfect timing! 🥰

[@shaunparton1209]

Just finished my EJ build. Cosworth break-in procedure on the dyno ~1hr, maintenance, then tune and power runs right after. Simples

[@Smeedia]

💪💪💪

[@jasonmekush5280]

A lot of motorcycle and watercraft builders also go by heat cycles. i used 8 heat cycles on my hi performance gp svho. ive had that motor 4 years and currently its 25 % more hp over showroom stock zero issues. changed the oil at 8 hours too

[@ThuderDuck]

Breaking in a car engine is essential to ensure its longevity and performance. During this period, usually the first 500-1,000 miles, engine components like pistons, cylinders, rings, and valves wear into each other smoothly. This process helps to create better seals, optimize friction, and prevent excessive wear later. Running the engine gently allows the metal surfaces to polish each other and properly distribute oil, which reduces the risk of overheating and damage. Tires also require a break-in period of around 200 miles because the outer layer contains residues from the manufacturing process, which can make them slippery. Driving cautiously allows the surface to wear down and achieve optimal traction. Additionally, tires need to settle into their final shape and develop even tread wear. Brakes, particularly the pads and rotors, need to be broken in (a process called bedding) to ensure the materials contact properly and to avoid glazing. Bedding-in brakes allows a thin layer of material to transfer between the pad and rotor, enhancing braking performance and minimizing noise or uneven wear. Overall, breaking in these components ensures peak performance and prevents premature damage or failure. There are teams of mechanical engineers who know the materials used in the engine and the temperatures and pressures the parts need to see before using the engine at higher revs. But everyone would rather take on the opinion of one guy on the internet and forget about the car longevity or its warranty… You go for it, I’ll stick with the recommendations.

[@jbarner13]

Not a big deal, but you've got blow-by backwards. It's leakage of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase, and becomes a problem when there's so much of it it cannot be handled by the PCV system. Oil consumption from ring wear or cylinder scoring happens when worn rings allow too thick a film of oil to remain on the cylinder wall, though If blow-by is extreme, it can cause pressurization of the crankcase and oil to be pushed past the worn rings on the intake stroke.. There is always a very thin film of oil left on the cylinder wall, even when a brand new engine is running, but this doesn't get burned because there is an extreme temperature gradient right at the cylinder wall that keeps this oil below its flash point. If the oil film is too thick, it can and does burn, though leaky valve seals are likely a more common path for oil to get into the combustion chamber. Finally, the main reason to use assembly lube instead of oil is that oil can be displaced during the rebuild process, leaving parts of the engine to become briefly oil starved during initial startup. Assembly lube is designed to be completely displaced by oil once the system is pressurized, leaving no residue behind, unlike the standard grease we used to use. If you have a way to pressurize the oil system before that initial startup, you wouldn't need to use assembly lube.

[@DiLLY_V92]

Dont forget that aside from your 3 stone or ball hones grit, it’s allllll about the crosshatch angle specification to get the proper balance of oil retention and compression and heat dissipation. Machine shops can take it a step further with their machines by achieve a perfect “plateau” cut that accelerates break in

[@LucAnderson]

I'm am literally putting my engine the car right now, typing this with greasy dirt hands 😂😂😂😂

[@Smeedia]

Lol how's the install going!?

[@LucAnderson]

Like a glove, just finishing the bell housing bolts right now

[@throbbybobby7893]

Really good info, thank you man. Definitely going to do this when I get my new brz, I don't believe the whole "1000 miles, keep it under 4k rpm" thing.

[@Smeedia]

It's all a masquerade

[@URBANENGINEER]

Here's what I picked up: 1. Conventional Oil to Prime engine - idle and check for leaks - don't forget to add coolant - Rev to 2k rpm - shutdown and drain oil. 2. Engine Break-in Oil - 0 to 50 miles. Stay out of boost (30% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 50 miles. 3. Engine Break-in Oil- 50-250 miles. Limited boost (30%-50% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 250 miles. 4. Regular Synthetic oil of your choice. Have fun full boost full throttle.

[@bass_backupvocals]

Is it true that new cars from the dealership were already broken in? Thanks bro, great review for this topic🤝

[@Smeedia]

No, if anything they've been left idling and driven around by port

[@benjonson27]

New cars typically have 2 or 3 miles on them. Driving onto and off the boat and across the port

[@joseLopez-jb7yf]

After the braking oil.......what type of oil u use,,,,,,,,,I have a 2007 sti limited.....iag second stage ,,,,,,,and iag said motul 5w 40,,,,,,the builder said 10w 40 Castrol regular oil,,,,,,?????love your channel lots of grate advice

[@Smeedia]

I use 5W40 in mine 🙏

[@RabiesCrackero]

Awesome vid, thank you so much. I'm about to get my newly rebuilt VQ35DE for my 2004 pathfinder and want to break it in properly.

[@philc.9280]

I recently purchased a 2023 Winnebago Travato with the Ram Promaster chassis. It already had 2000 miles on it as they are driven from the factory to my dealership in California. I now wonder if all of that highway mileage was good for the engine. I immediately changed the oil and filter around 3000 miles with a good synthetic. I plan to keep it for a long time so maintenance with be done regularly.

[@DAT240Z72]

It depends on the type of piston rings you use and how well the machinist honed the cylinders. Molly rings and micro-crosshatched cylinders will seat in just a few miles applying load.

[@nigeljoycey5644]

Just got my 19 sti back from the dealer who put in a new short block. They said they did the varying of rpm to seat the rings at first start up. The thing that has me puzzled is my boost was showing at 16.8 peak psi which means when they drove it after install they were hitting full boost. Has me a little concerned but i've been varying my rpms, engine breaking and not hitting boost myself even if it appears they did. Gonna start to incrementally add light boost like 4 psi and then change the oil at 1000kms and go back to normal driving.

[@johnmeltonjr2797]

I changed the oil at 50 mile then 250 then 500 and drove the car like you and then changed it again to motul v300 at 856 miles then on the dyno it went

[@Smeedia]

Make some good power? 👀

[@autumnjeserich2689]

Use the a oil galley plugs to put pressurized oil through it while spinning it by hand. until you get oil coming out of every pushrod if you have a pushrod engine.

[@tonylyons2414]

Really enjoyed this,iv got a golf mk6 R and I’m now having my engine fully forged with Carrillo piston & rods fall valve train ect ect gotta admit it’s kinda scary for me as don’t wonna mess it up iv put over 15K into this

[@yarrdayarrdayarrda]

The engine should be primed either by physically turning the oil pump independently from the crankshaft or with a pressure priming can long before it's installed into the car.

[@videomaniac108]

I bought a 2019 Nissan 370Z new at the end of 2018 and am now hitting about 57K on the mileage. I have used only the recommended Nissan ester oil and good Fram Ultra Synthetic filters. I run ⅓ oz of Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner per gallon of gas as a maintenance dose to supplement the Shell Nitro V-Plus that I use. The oil changes were done at 300 mi, 900 mi, 3K mi and the rest have been done at 3K mile intervals. I drove the car very gently for the first 1500 miles, with revs below 3500, no constant highway speeds and no hard acceleration. The engine has always been warmed up until the coolant gets up to temp, very quickly, on a cold start before the engine is loaded. Revs are kept below 2500 rpm until the oil is up to 160⁰ F. Results: For the first 15K miles oil consumption was about 3oz at the end of the 3K mile OCI. There was a slight amount of soot on the inside of the exhaust tips. After 15K miles the dipstick showed no oil usage at the end of the OCI and the exhaust tips became even cleaner, with virtually no residue. The engine runs smoothy and quietly with no problems to date. I don't know whether the good behavior of my engine is due to my care, good luck in getting a good engine from the factory or both.

[@GR_Papi]

Great video I’m one of those hard break in guys it’s worked out fine for my Sti. Knock on wood 😂

[@Smeedia]

As long as they running good, that's all that matters 💪

[@brother_maleik]

Was hoping I'd never have to watch this video again :./ Thank you for you insight as always!

[@stevenbenton2061]

Great info!!! Especially for somebody like me who can find his engine under the hood of his BMW just 2 out of 3 try’s. 😂

[@freebergy6661]

Awesome video bud! I actually need some advice on my build. I had a complete rebuild on the car and it's sat for about 6-7 months. It was on e85 and my parents have been running it from time to time running it on 93 to burn up some of the old fuel. What would be some stuff that I should do when I finally get the car back? I'm planning on changing the oil and going over all the fluids.

[@Smeedia]

Use some fuel system cleaner, don't drive the car in boost until all the old gad is out. Aside from that you should be good to go

[@freebergy6661]

@@Smeedia thanks buddy really appreciate it!

[@SubieSqwad]

Thanks for the video Tanner, this was great! Having the brand new type RA long block assembled for my launch edition this week, so this video comes in handy. Instead of following Subaru's break-in process of first oil change after 1k, I'm going to do an oil change at like 500 miles. Edit, side though. Makes sense that the boost gauge isn't functioning on the center gauges. But, does the drivetrain screen still work?!

[@Smeedia]

Drive train screen does still work 🥳

[@omialmanza1900]

Usually the "break in" is the trial and errors phase. After that I'd leave the rest to the monitoring systems. Most dudes assume it takes thousands of miles🤦🏻‍♂️. Just as long as components are well lubricated and at optimal temps, range, specs, ext.... This was a great topic to bring up T. Im more of a run it-break it -fix-it and repeat type of dude to make room for improvements. -Smeedia in a nut shell😅 No offense T 😅✌🏼. + my tuner recommends stock-ish 15+ wrx's with bolt-ons, spark plugs to be gapped at .30-.33 But Subaru recommends .22 for maximum performance Seems very low Imo? Blu sounds INSANE!!

[@Smeedia]

Everyone's got diffret views on this but for the most part I'd say follow whatever feels comfortable 😅 Subaru is also giving specs for stock cars lol

[@KBros]

It was a very informative video. I learned a few new things today!💪🏾

[@Smeedia]

🙏🙏🙏

[@arthurmiller-vl6sw]

Only thing that really bothered me is around the 3:00 mark when you explained the rings. ONLY the 3 piece ring at the bottom is the oil control rings. The top 2 are compression rings even though they are made/coated of different material (chrome, moly and cast typical). I did take all your advice on the priming of the engine etc. thanks.

[@ryanspeck2248]

Not all oil rings are 3 pieces. Just build a motor with a single ring and an expander spring inside for the oil ring. Also Napier second rings are an oil control ring. He correctly referred to it as a scraper ring.

[@g3ahvicious249]

Thank you for all your awesome videos. This one is awesome on the subject. Great job. One thing, what weight of oil would be best to break in with? Since the tolerances are tight.

[@OIFsurvivor]

Hay @Smeedia, have you ever heard of oem subaru fa20 engines being pre-broken in prior to sale? Had my shortblock recently replaced. When I asked the shop for break-in suggestions. They stated it was broken in before sale. Any advice?

[@jermainepickett9750]

My iAG engine listed 800 to 1000 prior to a tune. My break in tune limited RPMs to 3800

[@Smeedia]

Every builder will have some diffrent procedures 🤝

[@about27dragons31]

With my IAG block my tuner is making me do 1500 on waste gate until I can get some power :/ but hey he knows better than me. Also has me at 3K rpm’s

[@kruelzombieful]

Clear flood mode cranking is all I have to say for priming. Well for an FA or FB engine at least.

[@nickpittman5224]

Just got my motor back from outfront motorsports today! This video couldnt have been released at a better time. Thanks for all the great informative content! 👍

[@Smeedia]

Eyyyy what engine set up did you go with?!

[@nickpittman5224]

@@Smeedia Ej20 with forged internals, one size up over stock on the pistons and they rebuilt my heads too. Didnt get it closed deck tho

[@HeidiFegles]

Breaking in a motor properly should be spun on a machine with the heads off with fresh oil before it’s in the car. Which is replicating the spark plug removal process although I do this as well anyways to prime it. Once it’s in the car and the oil pump is primed. Start it and then you do the idle procedure or with wheels off the ground put it in first and keep it steady rpm. Changing the oil after the first cycle. Then put fresh oil in it bring up to temp. Time to race, break in happens the first hour during that initial rpm variation procedure off the ground in your driveway or shop. After that just drive it like you are going to be driving it. Mines a race car. It gets tuned then raced. And my set up hasn’t changed much so the tune is usually pretty darn close. Then document your results. And then it becomes kind of ritualistic. But within all engine builders we can all agree that rpm and heat in the beginning is what seats the rings.

[@doctor_who1]

hey there, bed in happens in the first 50 miles. car comes from factory already 50 miles. all our engines are all stuffed? i presume the car has little to no load while moving between trucks trains and ships?

[@jakedank2746]

I work at a engine plant for one of the big 3 they only us oil on the piston bores to help the operators with inserting the pistons. The whole engine is assembled dry no oil.

[@ichewtoast111]

I had my foot resting on the pedal of my new car when I started it and revved to red line lol I’m not used to driving light digital petals. 😅

[@pingpong9656]

Can you just take off oil filter and make sure oil is dripping from there when cranking - ensuring oil pump is primed and pushing oil up. I don't have anything to measure oil pressure with...

[@ericrichards8939]

Since you're going to be in Spokane in a few weeks for your tune, if you're in town for the weekend, we should do a Subaru / Car "meet and greet." For all the locals who follow you. Just a thought.

[@Smeedia]

Depends on how long were there but I'd be down 💪

[@Joey_Bananas]

Tbt to when you told me this break in for my 21 STI but I was picking it up from my dealer out of state and didn't really have much variation since it was pretty much all highway 😅😅 I tried to fluctuate between 5th and 6th at different speeds to help as much as possible but yeah

[@Smeedia]

Doing what ya can though, as long as it's running good 💪🔥

[@Joey_Bananas]

@@Smeedia I think so. Burning through a bit of oil I think though. Did the initial 1k oil change as per the Subaru break in cause I didn't really have the chance to do what you recommended and 3k OCIs since. Now sitting at 7k mileage and change. The 3rd change from 4k to 7 I think I went through nearly 1qt I heard from some people apparently that's normal? Idk used to my 18 WRX not burning like a drop so it's slightly concerning especially in 3k miles even if it's normal

[@tonylyons9772]

@smeedia hi ya,iv got a golf MK6 R & iv just had my engine re built with everything,Carrillo piston & rods supertech valvetrain cometic gasket ARP bolts polished/ported head & so much more,long story short my friend who’s built so many engines has now decided to leave me stranded right at the last bit & he knows the running in wasn’t something i wanted to do,we did the priming turning it over so all that is done,it’s now just the run in & he’s saying 500 miles (he’s always been extra safe) can you give me any tips? From what i THINK i no is..don’t keep at same speed change gears up & down regularly & do a lot of engine braking either by the paddles (it’s a DGS) with a 7 speed RS3 box,or just in S mode & let the gears drop from 5/4/3/2 ect then pick back up to speed & repeat,never staying at the same speed always up a little & then down a little,& keeping the RPM under 4K ? From what iv said is there anything you’d say to do or not do? BTW it’s on the 2.0L block well apparently it’s now like a 2.1 & the turbo of choice is a G25-660 i no you can’t put foot down for the turbo to come on but i really want to give this car the best start because iv put around 17K into this build & im from the UK BTW I’ll appreciate any tips you can give 🙏

[@kenji1444]

What if you know your car needs a tune prior to driving? Are you forced to break it in on a dyno?

[@Weidjeep]

I like Nardo Grey and have yet to see any Subaru done in that color. I mainly see it on new muscle cars, high power audi lol, and exotics.

[@Smeedia]

My blue sti use to be Nardo 😅

[@Weidjeep]

@@Smeedia Why am I not surprised 😂. well I guess that color is out. would love to see pics of it in nardo only because its currently my fav color. Blue is my #2.

[@opticsmedia.official]

This is in general even with IAG Engines? Because I'm like 700miles on my Stage 2 Tuff and Haven't introduced Boost yet. Should at least introduce it to maybe 10psi? What do you think?

[@Smeedia]

All engines, but every manufacturer will tell you a diffent processing it were me I'd be goinf full send at 700 miles

[@about27dragons31]

I got two hours to talk about engine breaking in I am all about learning how not to break my engine again I am on my 3rd EJ and 3RD turbo set up currently at 197 miles on the new engine thx for the info

[@Smeedia]

What happened with the first two 😳

[@Mechani_Cole]

Finshing my Ej255 rebuild, thanks for all the videos and info🫡

[@chain173]

Vid is good to go. Answered all my questions and thanks.

[@kduran744]

coming out with this video right when im going to put in a new engine lol thanks

[@Smeedia]

Eyyyy I got you 💪

[@MikeB-ng3ol]

I used to prefill the oil pump with oil, then cap it with a dab of vasoline, to speed up the process.

[@PetesWorkshop]

Hi from Aus. The only readily available break-in oil is Penrite 15W-40. Is this ok to use?

[@TimberWulfIsHere]

You should be able to get motul breakin oil at autopro

[@jimmyglea]

Things I like about this channel… 1) The average 50 year old Joe Lunchbox can apply a lot of knowledge learned here to his own car, even if he leaves it bone stock. 2) The host is well spoken and doesn’t talk down to newbies and casual enthusiasts. 3) There’s no screaming and flailing around. Just good info presented calmly. 4) I really dig the old school, “Don’t do what I’m about to show you how to do” approach. That’s how Gen X learned half the crap we know. lol

[@Smeedia]

I've definitely got some videos where I'm all over thr place. But for these types of videos always try to just go through them 🔥🤝

[@garymaclean6903]

Have you ever sent your oil to Blackstone or the other oil assayers to find out if there's actually higher amounts of 'particles' or a breakdown of your oil during break-in? Doesn't a good filter remove particles large enough to damage a bearing or cylinder within the first few miles of it's first run? All quality modern filters remove particles thousands of times smaller than the bearing clearances. No chunks of metal from assembly 'wear off' after all the oil has circulated and get trapped in the filter. Have you ever examined a filter when you change oil during break-in to see if there actually are 'metal particles from break-in' inside the filter? I know of people who have damaged their engines during break-in. Typically they did not follow the factory recommendations to limit engine speed and load for the first few thousand miles, Engine friction is higher on a new engine, and more heat is generated. One particular owner took his air-cooled bike with newly completed valve job with it's tight valve stem clearances onto the highway on a very hot day, and seized the valves...

[@DreamKeeper.]

What if I have roller lifters?

[@Austin-qg2sv]

LOL read through the facebook post comments on this the other night

[@Smeedia]

Which post? 😅

[@Austin-qg2sv]

The "She ready for some booooooost" post on the owners page

[@illegalLettuce]

So you said youre not double clutching your downshifts, but at the end of this vid I hear you blipping the throttle before downshifting, so I thought you were double clutching in last vid. I learned how to double clutch downshifts after I Blew A Tranny!! ...cost me $1600 and I had to walk home ;)

[@Smeedia]

Hopefully wasn't a long walk 😳

[@richardchileshe9910]

Hi. Can i please ask a question and get your opinion? I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new. In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil. Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in, period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low😊 indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..

[@82_KID]

17:03 YES! That's how you have to be on KZbin. I got a Naturally Aspirated EJ251.. Is the procedure still the same/about the same? About 100-250 miles and done?

[@ccu1990]

What about the rest of the drive line?... Does the clutch/transmission/breaks take less than 500 as well? I got a WRX coming in next month and I take the time to follow break in on my new vehicles... but I also hate wasting my time and want to treat it like a toy sooner than later

[@martinlang9615]

Would you recommend the same process for a 4x4 3.0 litre Diesel engine?

[@DavidT97]

Holy smokes.. My engine was broken in on the dyno and tuned that same day full send. 500km retune again and an e85 tune. Shop does that for all builds sti 207/257, evo and all rb.

[@Smeedia]

Send ittttt!!! 💪💪💪

[@victorpatykowski5523]

Im doing a first start up on a type ra block soon, so you think its a good idea to keep those sparkplugs out to prevent load on the rings when priming?

[@GR_Papi]

Definitely 👍🏾

[@Smeedia]

Yessir, keep em out 🙏

[@dannyp204]

I got a brand new block and heads put on. The machine shop that built my block (just an oem wrx block) they told me 3k. The mechanic also had me change the oil from the 15w-40 he put in there as per the machine shop's recommendation, at 500 miles to ger any other metal left over from the machine shop out. Then he said to keep it under 5psi, try to shift around 3500 and no constant rpm. For 3,000 miles. I think it's around 1k right now

[@Smeedia]

3K?! That's insane 😳

[@dannyp204]

@@Smeedia That was my mechanic and machine shop back in Spokane, while now I'm in the Seattle area. How many do you actually think it needs for a 2011 subaru wrx? It just has an oem motor with bolt on stuff here and there. It's down tuned right now because of the break in, but after the tune it'll be pushing around 400 hp.

[@Smeedia]

Legit like 150 miles max to brak it in

[@heh2k]

video starts at 12:08

[@prodkentley]

I have a heavy heavy clutch. how am i supposed to stay under 3k rpm when i have to be at 3k to even get her rolling

[@codykellner9985]

Always great info in your videos

[@Smeedia]

❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@mrsmith8436]

You said after the initial bedding no more bedding takes place then said you change the oil at 50 miles and do it again then talking about bedding in more. Everything you said contradicted what you said in the beginning🤔

[@michaelpeat4197]

What would your break in procedure be when collecting brand new car from dealer ? as manual has no break in procedure at all

[@URBANENGINEER]

Car from dealer has already had a start up and engine oil replacement. They did the basic break in step. Just follow manufacturer recommendation aka don’t rev it all the way out.

[@josefmistal2698]

Question for you. What brand of break-in oil do you recommend? I am about to start the process and want to ensure I have everything I need.

[@Smeedia]

I use motul 10w40 🙏

[@BC_Hunter]

Does this apply to diesel engines too?

[@anthonyvazquez5366]

Good thing I live in the mountains of Puerto Rico brake in going to be a breeze

[@Smeedia]

🥳🥳

[@robertmacdonald7060]

Love the content!!! Does the ( break in period ) included brand new off the lot cars?? As in new cars from the dealership?? Might sound dumb but I thought I would ask for the public. I bought my STI new from the dealership .. thanks

[@Smeedia]

Personally I think so, I'll still break in a brand new car the same way I would a built engine

[@REALCONVERSATIONSWITHNOMARVIN]

do you think if u do it with e sparks plugs in would that be ok?

[@swishyboi7444]

Hi. I have a same build as yours around 400whp build. Your sounds pretty rowdy I love it My question is engine breaking I am about to break in IAG closed block When doing engine break-in can I heel and toe BLIP the throttle( like I always do) to down shift so engine break. Or is it preferred to stay in the gear and let engine break when coming to a stop? I do hear in your video ( driving part ) you do blip the throttle for downshifts

[@Smeedia]

You can, but I would stay under 4K rpm when you are doing so 🙏

[@swishyboi7444]

@@Smeedia yes they put RPM limit I believe 4 or 4.5 rpm

[@Mr-Crain]

But have you seen IAG brand new Breakin video?

[@chriskolitz7511]

You can prime oil on any Subaru 09 and up by putting the gas to the floor with it off, holding it there, and then cranking. It's cuts fuel and spark automatically

[@Smeedia]

Only takes the 1 time that it doesn't enter flood mode and revs to the moon to never trust that again 😅

[@chriskolitz7511]

Haha! I've yet to experience that, but I guess it is a real possibility. Pulling the fuel pump fuse isn't that hard I guess.

[@BB-tb9ih]

Just to confirm, the cam break-in is only if you have new cams? If your using existing ones I'm assuming this is not required? If it's not required, do you still drop the oil used to fire it up and burp the coolant system ? Shout out from Australia to!

[@Smeedia]

Correct, only for new cams 😁 No need to swap immediately, but I would change it after about 50 miles 🙏

[@BB-tb9ih]

@@Smeedia Legend, Cheers!

[@theaustralianconundrum]

@@Smeedia Subscribed from Australia! My retirement present was an MY06 Sti. Blue with the gold wheels. My wife hated it! LOL With 5 miles on the clock I took delivery and just drove it like I normally would. I don't live in a city so it was twisties and short medium straights up to 100mph and repeat. Loved it. Engine was like a jet the entire time. My STi is still going in 2023 and now with 135,000 miles. Second owner. Uses no oil between services, no fuel dilution, Compression in 2023 read 167,166,168 & 167. Engine still quiet, smooth. Oil & filter always changed every 4,000 miles. 1,000 KM manufacturer running in's are almost guaranteed to give the manufacturer much better chances of people having to buy new cars earlier than they should have to. It's total BS! Great video! Cheers.

[@TheE3R]

Speaking of break in bro, Im very curious how my fully build block will perform with the cams, my tuner will do mixed cams GSC S1/S2 (268/272) with Ferrea Competition Plus std sz 36mm In and 32mm ex, Ferrea titanium springs/retainers and as for port work, bowl blend, some light porting, casting clean up, I guess...cant f#cking wait to be on the roller listening that T51R screaming🔥🤌

[@Smeedia]

Ohhhhh you going to have some good airflow with that set up 🤌🔥

[@TheE3R]

@@Smeedia ohh yeahhhh, I cant wait, I need to get my hands back to video editing, its been a minute since Ive done one, I'll will tag you on the dyno video

[@TrillMurray]

I thought blow by referred to the combustion gases and fuel passing the rings into the crankcase resulting in higher crankcase pressure and that oil passing the rings into the cylinder was just a symptom

[@Smeedia]

Can go either way, you can have gasses go into the crank case and oil getting into thr combustion chamber

[@K2B14]

So if I'm reusing my old cams, do I still have to do the "camshaft break in"? Or can I skip that step and get started with my first 50 miles immediately?

[@Smeedia]

Skip that, it's only for brand new cams 🙏

[@K2B14]

@@Smeedia Thanks 👌

[@BoostedBrando]

This is a great video. Thanks 🙏🏼

[@Smeedia]

Eyyyy, glad you enjoyed it 🥳

[@teameliteuk2023]

Extremely helpful nice one 👌

[@Smeedia]

🙏🙏

[@bog1e]

Just got a new IAG stage 2 tuff they recommend 1k with a break in tune, is a break tune critical or can I just keep the revs down and stay out of boost and all that on a normal tune.

[@Smeedia]

I would suggest a tune, doesn't have to be a break in tune. But I'd make sure that everything is proper with it 🤝

[@fatwalletboy2]

All great advice but the jumping caprions at the end is so irritating .

[@sirfrancisbacon4344]

Hard self reassurance starts at 3:05 lol. But jk as usual you're the man

[@Smeedia]

🙏🙏🙏

[@McRex203]

Dude, you should have like 1 mil subscribers… like wtf

[@chadhislop4041]

On motorcycles it’s all about heat cycling for the first few startups… I assume it’s the same on a car… also when do we get hints on the new car???

[@Smeedia]

Personally I wouldent, I've heard of people idling a car then shutting it off, letting it cool down etc. But in reality what's it going to do?

[@chadhislop4041]

@@Smeedia on motorcycle engines the theory is it let’s all the different metals expand and contract at the different rates and seat into each other.